Deagostini HMS Sovereign of Seas User guide

Brand: Deagostini

Model: HMS Sovereign of Seas

Type: User guide

Build the largest warship of the 17th century

HMS

PACK

Published in the UK by De Agostini UK Ltd,

Battersea Studios 2, 82 Silverthorne Road,

Battersea, London SW8 3HE

Published in the USA by

De Agostini Publishing USA Inc.,

915 Broadway, Suite 609,

New York, NY 10010

Contents

ASSEMBLY GUIDE

287 Stage 68: Parts of the upper quarterdeck, wood strips

and a cannon

291 Stage 69: Parapets, round frames, buckets and wood strips

295 Stage 70: Gratings, ladders, wood strips and metal fittings

301 Stage 71: The rudder and wood strips

305 Stage 72: Shields, decorations, ladders, wood strips

and hinges

311 Stage 73: Pieces of the left-hand side galleries and a cannon

313 Stage 74: Pieces of the right-hand side galleries and

the transom

317 Stage 75: Pieces of the forecastle and gunwales,

and shield transfer

323 Stage 76: Gunwales of the quarterdeck, decorations and

wood strips for the wales

327 Stage 77: The figurehead platform, decorations and the

ship’s captain

331 Stage 78: The lower mainmast cap and birch dowels

Build the largest warship of the 17th century

HMS

www.model-space.com

WARNING: Not suitable for children under the age of 14. This product is not a toy and is not

designed or intended for use in play. Items may vary from those shown.

A Pieces of the upper quarterdeck

B Basswood strips 0.6 x 5 x 300mm x 12

C Gun carriage

D Blocks x 4

E Barrel

F Gun carriage wheels x 2

G Trunnion cap squares x 2

H Eyebolts x 4

I Axle

J Connecting strip

In all stages, parts may vary from those shown

Stage 68: Parts of the upper

quarterdeck, wood strips and a cannon

1 Take the hull of the model and the strip for making beams left

over from Stage 65.

3 Cut the bulkhead to stand in front of the upper quarterdeck

from the die that came with this stage.

4 Without using glue, set the bulkhead on the hull and make

sure it ts properly with the pieces already assembled. If necessary,

smooth the edges with a ne-grained sanding block.

2 Cut the strip to size, and then glue it on the brackets of the rib

frame at the forward end of the upper quarterdeck.

YOU WILL NEED

O Craft knife

O PVA wood glue

O Fine-grained

sanding block

O Pencil and ruler

O Transparent matt

varnish

O Flat paintbrush

O Black and red

modelling paint

287

8 Without using glue, set the bulkhead on the hull and

check that the addition of the strip makes it ush with the

beam xed in Step 2.

5 If the bulkhead is lower than the beam xed in Step 2, you

must make up the height dierence with one of the 1.5 x 1.5 x

300mm strips that came with Stage 67.

6 Take the strip and glue it to one of the long edges of the

bulkhead, as shown in the photo.

10 Place the bulkhead on the model again, xing it permanently

with glue.

7 Cut o the excess and, with a ne-grained sanding block,

smooth the bulkhead and strip.

9 Remove the bulkhead from the hull and paint it black with a

at paintbrush.

288

1211

15 Paint the outer faces of both bulwarks black.

13 After cutting the two bulwarks of the upper quarterdeck from

the die, paint the inner faces with the red paint previously used on

the hull.

16 Without glue, place the upper quarterdeck on the hull to make

sure that it ts properly between the bulwarks.

11 Paint the vertical edges of the two sides at the ends of the

bulkhead black.

12 Take the upper quarterdeck and, without using glue, set it on

the hull. It must t exactly within the sides. If necessary, smooth

the sides of the piece with a ne-grained sanding block.

14 Glue the two bulwarks on the sides of the upper quarterdeck,

aligning them with the forward bulkhead. e faces painted red

should be turned towards the inside of the hull.

1.5

289

17 18

20 With a pencil, highlight the joints and simulate the nails of the

planking, following the measurements shown in the photo. Finally,

give the strips a transparent matt protective varnish.

17 Take the upper quarterdeck and, with a pencil and a ruler,

mark the midline.

18 Cut to size the 0.6 x 5 x 300mm strips of basswood and,

starting from the midline and proceeding outwards, cover the

upper quarterdeck as you did the previous decks.

22 Assemble the cannon and the blocks that came with this stage,

following the instructions given in Stages 56 (Steps 11 to 19) and 61

(Steps 14 to 22). Use the wire left over from previous sessions.

19 With a ne-grained sanding block, smooth the planking of the

upper quarterdeck to level the surface of the strips.

21 Glue the upper quarterdeck on the hull, then put the model in

a safe place for your next assembly session.

44mm 40mm

290

291

YOU WILL NEED

O Craft knife

O Metal le

O Metal glue

O PVA wood glue

O Masking tape

O Metal primer

O Fine-grained sanding

block

O Modelling putty

O Pencil

O Sandpaper

O Transparent matt varnish

O Paintbrush

O Wood-coloured, walnut,

black and ivory paint

A Parapets of the quarterdeck

and upper quarterdeck

B Birch strips 1.5 x 1.5

x 300mm x 4

C Birch strips 3 x 3 x 300mm x 3

D Birch strips 2 x 5 x 300mm x 2

E Round frames x 4

F Decorations x 2

G Buckets x 3

H Handles x 3

Stage 69: Parapets, round

frames, buckets and wood strips

1 Take the hull of the model and, if necessary, smooth the edges

of the upper quarterdeck bulwarks with a ne-grained sanding

block to level them with the deck planking.

3 Without using glue, place the two bases on the edges of the

quarterdeck and check that they t neatly between the bulkheads.

Smooth them if necessary with ne-grained sandpaper.

4 Paint the two bases a walnut colour. When dry, put on a coat

of transparent matt protective varnish.

2 Cut the bases of the parapets of the quarterdeck from the die.

e arrows printed on the die indicate the position of the pieces in

relation to the bow of the model. Sand the edges of the bases.

292

5 Glue the two bases on the upper quarterdeck so that they

protrude 1mm beyond the corresponding bulwark.

6 With a 1.5 x 1.5 x 300mm birch strip, ll the gap between the

inner wall of the transom and the stern crown, at the sides of the

large lantern. en, putty and sandpaper the surfaces.

7 Protect the deck and the sides of the upper quarterdeck with

masking tape, then paint the wall of the transom black . Once the

paint is dry, remove the masking tape.

9 Fix the two bases on the bulwarks of the upper quarterdeck.

Ensure that the edges near the holes face inwards. e bases must

protrude 1mm beyond the bulwarks.

8 Take the bases of the parapets of the upper quarterdeck from the

die, smooth them with ne-grained sandpaper, paint them a walnut

colour and coat them with transparent matt protective varnish.

mm 10

10 e white circles show the holes on the bases that you xed in

the previous step. As you can see, the holes are nearest to the inside

of the model.

293

15 Paint a 1.5 x 1.5 x 300mm strip and a 3 x 3 x 300mm strip, and

then coat them with the protective varnish. Make the uprights of the

parapets, as you did for the quarterdeck.

16 Here are the parapets completed. As you can see, the 1.5 x

1.5mm uprights are ush with the parapet (white arrows ), while the

3 x 300mm ones protrude by 3mm, as shown by the white circles.

1413

14 Glue the two gunwales and the handrail of the upper

quarterdeck bulkhead in the position shown in the photos.

13 Remove the two gunwales and the handrail from the hull and

paint them a walnut colour. Once dry, coat them with transparent

matt protective varnish.

12 Check that the two gunwales of the parapet and the handrail of

the upper quarterdeck bulkhead t correctly together and with the

other elements of the deck, as shown in the photo.

11 Remove the gunwales of the parapet and the handrail of the

upper quarterdeck bulkhead from the die. Set the pieces on the hull

and, if necessary, make them t with a craft knife and sandpaper.

22 Repeat the operations described in Steps 20 and 21 and

assemble the other two buckets that came with this stage.

21 Rub the tip of a pencil on a sheet of sandpaper to obtain

graphite powder. Put a drop of glue in the bucket and ll it

with graphite dust.

20 After smoothing the pieces with a le, assemble a bucket by

gluing on the handle with metal glue. Paint the bucket and the

various details as shown in the photo to the right.

19 Put the hull away in a safe place with the round frames, the

decorations and the spare wood strips.

5.5

18 Paint a 1.5 x 1.5 x 300mm strip, coat it with the varnish. Cut

into 5.5mm lengths, then combine with the two gunwales to make

the parapets of the upper quarterdeck.

17 Cut the two upper quarterdeck gunwales from the die, paint

them with a walnut colour and coat them with transparent matt

varnish. e rectangular holes should be facing inwards.

MAKING THE BUCKETS

294

A Wood strip 1 x 5 x 300mm

B Wood strips 1 x 3 x 300mm x 2

C Sapele strip 0.6 x 3 x 300mm

D Grating joists x 57

E Sidebands of the ladders x 4

F Brass rings x 50

G Hinges and decorations

Stage 70: Gratings, ladders,

wood strips and metal ttings

3 Take two of the joists that came with this stage and join them

together with a drop of glue to form an angle of 90 degrees.

4 Join two more joists to make a square frame. en, t more

joists inside the frame to complete the grating.

2 e rst part of this assembly session is to make three gratings

for the hatches of the forecastle and the quarterdeck.

1 Take the hull of the model as you left it at the end of your last

assembly session.

EFG

90°

YOU WILL NEED

O Craft knife

O Metal glue

O PVA wood glue

O Masking tape

O Burnishing liquid

O Fine-grained sandpaper

O Tweezers

O Pencil

O Hand drill

O 0.5mm bit

O Sandpaper

O Clear matt varnish

O Fine and at paintbrushes

O Walnut-coloured

modelling paint

295

5 From the grating constructed in the previous step, cut three

smaller pieces of grating, as shown in the photo.

6 Take the grating shown in the photo above and give it a coat of

clear matt protective varnish.

8 Take the two 1 x 3 x 300mm strips supplied with this stage

and paint them a walnut colour. Give them a coat of clear matt

protective varnish.

9 Cut two pieces of a strip to size and glue them on the inside

edges of the grating of the forecastle.

10 With a ne paintbrush, paint the inside edges of the forecastle

hatch a walnut colour, as shown in the photo.

7 When the varnish is dry, t and glue the grating inside the

hatch on the forecastle, setting it ush with the planking of

the deck.

296

12 Put a coat of clear matt protective varnish on the other two

pieces of grating. Allow them to dry.

14 Make the inner frame of the aftmost grating by following

Steps 9 to 10.

15 Cut eight pieces of 1 x 3 x 300mm strip painted a walnut

colour and glue them along the edges of the two hatches of the

quarterdeck, making the frames of the grating.

16 Take the four sidebands of the ladders that came with this

stage. e inner side of these pieces has a series of notches in which

to insert the steps.

13 Insert the two pieces of grating and glue them inside the

hatches of the forecastle, in the positions shown in the photo.

e gratings must be ush with the planking of the deck.

11 Glue four pieces of a 1 x 3 x 300mm strip cut to size on the

edge of the forecastle hatch to make the outer frame of the grating.

MAKING THE LADDERS

297

90°

22 Put the ladder inside the forecastle hatch, xing it in

place with glue. e ladder must have a width equal to that

of the opening.

21 Cut the top corners of the two sidebands to create a bevel, as

shown in the photo.

20 Glue the seven steps in the grooves on the inside of one of the

two sidebands, checking that they are at a right angle and parallel

to one another. Glue the other sideband to nish the ladder.

19 Cut seven pieces from a 1 x 5 x 300mm strip to use as the steps

of the rst ladder. When calculating the size of the steps, remember

that the ladder must t into the opening of the hatch (see Step 22).

18 Insert two ladder sidebands (left and right) into the forecastle

hatch and make a mark on them at the height of the outer frame.

Cut the sidebands at that mark.

17 Smooth the pieces with ne-grained sandpaper, paint them

a walnut colour and apply a coat of clear varnish.

298

27 Fix the three brass pieces on the upper quarterdeck hatch cover

with metal glue, as shown in the photo.

28 Take the rings that came with this stage and the same number

of eyebolts that came with Stage 63. Paint a coat of burnishing

liquid on them.

23 Make a second ladder, following the previous steps. Glue the

ladder in the aftmost hatch of the two on the quarterdeck.

25 Glue the pieces of strip on the hatch, as shown in the photos.

Give them a coat of varnish.

26 Cut the two hinges and a decoration from the brass die that

came with this stage.

23 24

24 Make the cover for the upper quarterdeck hatch. Take the

0.6 x 3 x 300mm sapele strip supplied with this stage and cut six

pieces 21mm long.

21mm

A COVER FOR THE UPPER QUARTERDECK HATCH

EYEBOLTS AND RINGS

299

29 30

32 Remove the two strips of masking tape from the side, then

insert and glue an eyebolt with a ring in each hole.

33 Here is what the left-hand side of the hull looks like after

attaching the eyebolts and rings.

30 Put two strips of masking tape on the left-hand side of the hull

so that the upper edge is aligned with the middle of the gun ports

of the rst and second gun decks.

31 Mark the intermediate points between one gun port and the

next on the upper edge of the two strips of masking tape. Drill a

hole with a 0.5mm bit at each mark.

34 Repeat Steps 30 to 32 on the right-hand side of the model.

29 After opening each eyebolt with tweezers, insert a ring and

then close the eyebolt.

300

A Sapele strips 0.6 x 5 x 300mm

x 13

B Rudder

C Brass rod

D Hinges x 12

E Nails x 75

Stage 71: The rudder

and wood strips

2 Cover the left side of the rudder with 0.6 x 5 x 300mm sapele

strips set lengthways

4 Repeat Steps 2 to 3, and cover the right-hand side of the

rudder with strips of sapele. Finally, smooth all surfaces thoroughly

with a ne-grained sanding block.

3 Trim the outline of the rudder, eliminating the bits of strip that

go over the edges, and open the notches. e photo at the bottom

shows the result that you should achieve.

1 Smooth the edges of the rudder with ne-grained sandpaper.

Take a 0.6 x 5 x 300mm sapele strip, cut it and x it on the edge of the

rudder, following the dotted line shown in the photo.

C D

YOU WILL NEED

O Craft knife

O Pliers

O Metal glue

O PVA wood glue

O Masking tape

O Fine-grained sanding block

O Small saw

O Pencil

O Hand drill

O Clear matt varnish

O Flat paintbrush or air brush

O Sapele-coloured, ivory

paint and burnishing uid

301

8 Once the paint is dry, give the entire rudder a coat of clear

matt protective varnish.

5 With a saw, accentuate the joints between the strips,

making three surface grooves on both sides of the rudder,

parallel to the longer side.

6 Cover 46mm of the end of the rudder head with masking tape.

Paint the exposed surface with the same ivory white paint that you

used on the bottom of the hull.

10 Cut the ve hinges to t, taking the main photo as reference.

e length of the hinges increases progressively from the top

downwards. ese are known as the pintles.

7 Remove the tape and, with a at paintbrush and sapele-coloured

paint, coat the inside edge of the rudder head.

9 Take ve hinges, and without using glue, arrange them in

place on the rudder, aligning them with the top edge of the

notches.

46 mm

302

1211

13 Paint all of the hinges with burnishing uid. Paint the pintles

to be xed on the rudder, and the ve hinges that you will x on

the sternpost. ese are known as gudgeons.

16 Use pliers to squeeze the arms of the pintle and the gudgeon

around the pin. Assemble the other four pintles of the rudder,

repeating the steps taken for the rst.

11 Drill two holes in the rst pintle from the top. e holes should

be 2mm from both ends and be wide enough to take a nail.

12 Take the hull, place the rudder against the sternpost, aligning it

with the keel. Mark the position of the lower edges of the notches in

the rudder on the hull with a pencil.

14 Take the brass rod that came with this stage, and cut ve

6mm-long pieces, which you will use as the pintle pins on

the rudder.

15 Insert a 6mm pin in a pintle, xing it with a drop of metal

glue. en insert the end of the pin that protrudes from the pintle

into a gudgeon.

303

17 18

20 Take 11 rings and 11 eyebolts from those that came with

a previous stage and paint them with burnishing uid. After

enlarging each ring with pliers, insert an eyebolt in it, then close it.

18 In a similar fashion, x the other four pintles to the rudder,

each in its recess.

22 Make ve holes (two on each side, one on the narrow edge) at

the upper end of the rudder blade, as shown in the photo above. e

photo below shows the stern with the 11 eyebolts.

19 Now you have to join the rudder to the hull. Bring it close to

the sternpost, aligning the gudgeons with the pencil marks made in

Step 12. Fix it by putting nails in the holes.

17 Before starting to attach pintles to the rudder, shorten the

nails to prevent them protruding on the opposite side. Put the rst

pintle on the rudder. Fix it to the rudder with a nail in each hole.

21 Make six 0.5 mm holes on the stern of the hull in the red circles,

following the measurements shown. Glue an eyebolt with a ring

inside each hole.

mm 7

EYEBOLTS AND RINGS

304

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Deagostini HMS Sovereign of Seas User guide

Deagostini HMS Sovereign of Seas User guide

Deagostini HMS Sovereign of Seas User guide

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