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Build the largest warship of the 17th century
HMS
7
PACK
TM
All rights reserved © 2015
Published in the UK by De Agostini UK Ltd,
Battersea Studios 2, 82 Silverthorne Road,
Battersea, London SW8 3HE
Published in the USA by
De Agostini Publishing USA Inc.,
915 Broadway, Suite 609,
New York, NY 10010
Contents
ASSEMBLY GUIDE
287 Stage 68: Parts of the upper quarterdeck, wood strips
and a cannon
291 Stage 69: Parapets, round frames, buckets and wood strips
295 Stage 70: Gratings, ladders, wood strips and metal fittings
301 Stage 71: The rudder and wood strips
305 Stage 72: Shields, decorations, ladders, wood strips
and hinges
311 Stage 73: Pieces of the left-hand side galleries and a cannon
313 Stage 74: Pieces of the right-hand side galleries and
the transom
317 Stage 75: Pieces of the forecastle and gunwales,
and shield transfer
323 Stage 76: Gunwales of the quarterdeck, decorations and
wood strips for the wales
327 Stage 77: The figurehead platform, decorations and the
ship’s captain
331 Stage 78: The lower mainmast cap and birch dowels
Build the largest warship of the 17th century
HMS
www.model-space.com
WARNING: Not suitable for children under the age of 14. This product is not a toy and is not
designed or intended for use in play. Items may vary from those shown.
TM
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A Pieces of the upper quarterdeck
B Basswood strips 0.6 x 5 x 300mm x 12
C Gun carriage
D Blocks x 4
E Barrel
F Gun carriage wheels x 2
G Trunnion cap squares x 2
H Eyebolts x 4
I Axle
J Connecting strip
In all stages, parts may vary from those shown
Stage 68: Parts of the upper
quarterdeck, wood strips and a cannon
3
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1 Take the hull of the model and the strip for making beams left
over from Stage 65.
3 Cut the bulkhead to stand in front of the upper quarterdeck
from the die that came with this stage.
4 Without using glue, set the bulkhead on the hull and make
sure it ts properly with the pieces already assembled. If necessary,
smooth the edges with a ne-grained sanding block.
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2 Cut the strip to size, and then glue it on the brackets of the rib
frame at the forward end of the upper quarterdeck.
4
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YOU WILL NEED
O Craft knife
O PVA wood glue
O Fine-grained
sanding block
O Pencil and ruler
O Transparent matt
varnish
O Flat paintbrush
O Black and red
modelling paint
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8 Without using glue, set the bulkhead on the hull and
check that the addition of the strip makes it ush with the
beam xed in Step 2.
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5 If the bulkhead is lower than the beam xed in Step 2, you
must make up the height dierence with one of the 1.5 x 1.5 x
300mm strips that came with Stage 67.
6
6 Take the strip and glue it to one of the long edges of the
bulkhead, as shown in the photo.
10
10 Place the bulkhead on the model again, xing it permanently
with glue.
7
7 Cut o the excess and, with a ne-grained sanding block,
smooth the bulkhead and strip.
9 Remove the bulkhead from the hull and paint it black with a
at paintbrush.
5
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15 Paint the outer faces of both bulwarks black.
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13 After cutting the two bulwarks of the upper quarterdeck from
the die, paint the inner faces with the red paint previously used on
the hull.
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16 Without glue, place the upper quarterdeck on the hull to make
sure that it ts properly between the bulwarks.
11 Paint the vertical edges of the two sides at the ends of the
bulkhead black.
12 Take the upper quarterdeck and, without using glue, set it on
the hull. It must t exactly within the sides. If necessary, smooth
the sides of the piece with a ne-grained sanding block.
14 Glue the two bulwarks on the sides of the upper quarterdeck,
aligning them with the forward bulkhead. e faces painted red
should be turned towards the inside of the hull.
1.5
mm
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17 18
20 With a pencil, highlight the joints and simulate the nails of the
planking, following the measurements shown in the photo. Finally,
give the strips a transparent matt protective varnish.
20
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17 Take the upper quarterdeck and, with a pencil and a ruler,
mark the midline.
18 Cut to size the 0.6 x 5 x 300mm strips of basswood and,
starting from the midline and proceeding outwards, cover the
upper quarterdeck as you did the previous decks.
22
22 Assemble the cannon and the blocks that came with this stage,
following the instructions given in Stages 56 (Steps 11 to 19) and 61
(Steps 14 to 22). Use the wire left over from previous sessions.
19
19 With a ne-grained sanding block, smooth the planking of the
upper quarterdeck to level the surface of the strips.
21 Glue the upper quarterdeck on the hull, then put the model in
a safe place for your next assembly session.
44mm 40mm
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YOU WILL NEED
O Craft knife
O Metal le
O Metal glue
O PVA wood glue
O Masking tape
O Metal primer
O Fine-grained sanding
block
O Modelling putty
O Pencil
O Sandpaper
O Transparent matt varnish
O Paintbrush
O Wood-coloured, walnut,
black and ivory paint
A Parapets of the quarterdeck
and upper quarterdeck
B Birch strips 1.5 x 1.5
x 300mm x 4
C Birch strips 3 x 3 x 300mm x 3
D Birch strips 2 x 5 x 300mm x 2
E Round frames x 4
F Decorations x 2
G Buckets x 3
H Handles x 3
Stage 69: Parapets, round
frames, buckets and wood strips
3
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1 Take the hull of the model and, if necessary, smooth the edges
of the upper quarterdeck bulwarks with a ne-grained sanding
block to level them with the deck planking.
4
3 Without using glue, place the two bases on the edges of the
quarterdeck and check that they t neatly between the bulkheads.
Smooth them if necessary with ne-grained sandpaper.
4 Paint the two bases a walnut colour. When dry, put on a coat
of transparent matt protective varnish.
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2 Cut the bases of the parapets of the quarterdeck from the die.
e arrows printed on the die indicate the position of the pieces in
relation to the bow of the model. Sand the edges of the bases.
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8
5 Glue the two bases on the upper quarterdeck so that they
protrude 1mm beyond the corresponding bulwark.
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6 With a 1.5 x 1.5 x 300mm birch strip, ll the gap between the
inner wall of the transom and the stern crown, at the sides of the
large lantern. en, putty and sandpaper the surfaces.
7
7 Protect the deck and the sides of the upper quarterdeck with
masking tape, then paint the wall of the transom black . Once the
paint is dry, remove the masking tape.
9 Fix the two bases on the bulwarks of the upper quarterdeck.
Ensure that the edges near the holes face inwards. e bases must
protrude 1mm beyond the bulwarks.
8 Take the bases of the parapets of the upper quarterdeck from the
die, smooth them with ne-grained sandpaper, paint them a walnut
colour and coat them with transparent matt protective varnish.
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10 e white circles show the holes on the bases that you xed in
the previous step. As you can see, the holes are nearest to the inside
of the model.
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15
15 Paint a 1.5 x 1.5 x 300mm strip and a 3 x 3 x 300mm strip, and
then coat them with the protective varnish. Make the uprights of the
parapets, as you did for the quarterdeck.
3
mm
16
16 Here are the parapets completed. As you can see, the 1.5 x
1.5mm uprights are ush with the parapet (white arrows ), while the
3 x 300mm ones protrude by 3mm, as shown by the white circles.
1413
14 Glue the two gunwales and the handrail of the upper
quarterdeck bulkhead in the position shown in the photos.
13 Remove the two gunwales and the handrail from the hull and
paint them a walnut colour. Once dry, coat them with transparent
matt protective varnish.
12
12 Check that the two gunwales of the parapet and the handrail of
the upper quarterdeck bulkhead t correctly together and with the
other elements of the deck, as shown in the photo.
11 Remove the gunwales of the parapet and the handrail of the
upper quarterdeck bulkhead from the die. Set the pieces on the hull
and, if necessary, make them t with a craft knife and sandpaper.
11
22
22 Repeat the operations described in Steps 20 and 21 and
assemble the other two buckets that came with this stage.
21 Rub the tip of a pencil on a sheet of sandpaper to obtain
graphite powder. Put a drop of glue in the bucket and ll it
with graphite dust.
20 After smoothing the pieces with a le, assemble a bucket by
gluing on the handle with metal glue. Paint the bucket and the
various details as shown in the photo to the right.
20
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19 Put the hull away in a safe place with the round frames, the
decorations and the spare wood strips.
19
5.5
mm
18
18 Paint a 1.5 x 1.5 x 300mm strip, coat it with the varnish. Cut
into 5.5mm lengths, then combine with the two gunwales to make
the parapets of the upper quarterdeck.
17
17 Cut the two upper quarterdeck gunwales from the die, paint
them with a walnut colour and coat them with transparent matt
varnish. e rectangular holes should be facing inwards.
MAKING THE BUCKETS
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A Wood strip 1 x 5 x 300mm
B Wood strips 1 x 3 x 300mm x 2
C Sapele strip 0.6 x 3 x 300mm
D Grating joists x 57
E Sidebands of the ladders x 4
F Brass rings x 50
G Hinges and decorations
Stage 70: Gratings, ladders,
wood strips and metal ttings
3 Take two of the joists that came with this stage and join them
together with a drop of glue to form an angle of 90 degrees.
4 Join two more joists to make a square frame. en, t more
joists inside the frame to complete the grating.
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2 e rst part of this assembly session is to make three gratings
for the hatches of the forecastle and the quarterdeck.
1 Take the hull of the model as you left it at the end of your last
assembly session.
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90°
90°
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YOU WILL NEED
O Craft knife
O Metal glue
O PVA wood glue
O Masking tape
O Burnishing liquid
O Fine-grained sandpaper
O Tweezers
O Pencil
O Hand drill
O 0.5mm bit
O Sandpaper
O Clear matt varnish
O Fine and at paintbrushes
O Walnut-coloured
modelling paint
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5 From the grating constructed in the previous step, cut three
smaller pieces of grating, as shown in the photo.
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6 Take the grating shown in the photo above and give it a coat of
clear matt protective varnish.
8 Take the two 1 x 3 x 300mm strips supplied with this stage
and paint them a walnut colour. Give them a coat of clear matt
protective varnish.
10
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9 Cut two pieces of a strip to size and glue them on the inside
edges of the grating of the forecastle.
10 With a ne paintbrush, paint the inside edges of the forecastle
hatch a walnut colour, as shown in the photo.
7
7 When the varnish is dry, t and glue the grating inside the
hatch on the forecastle, setting it ush with the planking of
the deck.
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12
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12 Put a coat of clear matt protective varnish on the other two
pieces of grating. Allow them to dry.
14 Make the inner frame of the aftmost grating by following
Steps 9 to 10.
15
15 Cut eight pieces of 1 x 3 x 300mm strip painted a walnut
colour and glue them along the edges of the two hatches of the
quarterdeck, making the frames of the grating.
16
16 Take the four sidebands of the ladders that came with this
stage. e inner side of these pieces has a series of notches in which
to insert the steps.
13
13 Insert the two pieces of grating and glue them inside the
hatches of the forecastle, in the positions shown in the photo.
e gratings must be ush with the planking of the deck.
11
11 Glue four pieces of a 1 x 3 x 300mm strip cut to size on the
edge of the forecastle hatch to make the outer frame of the grating.
MAKING THE LADDERS
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90°
22
22 Put the ladder inside the forecastle hatch, xing it in
place with glue. e ladder must have a width equal to that
of the opening.
21
21 Cut the top corners of the two sidebands to create a bevel, as
shown in the photo.
20
20 Glue the seven steps in the grooves on the inside of one of the
two sidebands, checking that they are at a right angle and parallel
to one another. Glue the other sideband to nish the ladder.
19
19 Cut seven pieces from a 1 x 5 x 300mm strip to use as the steps
of the rst ladder. When calculating the size of the steps, remember
that the ladder must t into the opening of the hatch (see Step 22).
18 Insert two ladder sidebands (left and right) into the forecastle
hatch and make a mark on them at the height of the outer frame.
Cut the sidebands at that mark.
18
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17 Smooth the pieces with ne-grained sandpaper, paint them
a walnut colour and apply a coat of clear varnish.
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27 Fix the three brass pieces on the upper quarterdeck hatch cover
with metal glue, as shown in the photo.
28
28 Take the rings that came with this stage and the same number
of eyebolts that came with Stage 63. Paint a coat of burnishing
liquid on them.
23 Make a second ladder, following the previous steps. Glue the
ladder in the aftmost hatch of the two on the quarterdeck.
25
25 Glue the pieces of strip on the hatch, as shown in the photos.
Give them a coat of varnish.
26 Cut the two hinges and a decoration from the brass die that
came with this stage.
26
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23 24
24 Make the cover for the upper quarterdeck hatch. Take the
0.6 x 3 x 300mm sapele strip supplied with this stage and cut six
pieces 21mm long.
21mm
A COVER FOR THE UPPER QUARTERDECK HATCH
EYEBOLTS AND RINGS
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32 Remove the two strips of masking tape from the side, then
insert and glue an eyebolt with a ring in each hole.
32
31
33
33 Here is what the left-hand side of the hull looks like after
attaching the eyebolts and rings.
30 Put two strips of masking tape on the left-hand side of the hull
so that the upper edge is aligned with the middle of the gun ports
of the rst and second gun decks.
31 Mark the intermediate points between one gun port and the
next on the upper edge of the two strips of masking tape. Drill a
hole with a 0.5mm bit at each mark.
34
34 Repeat Steps 30 to 32 on the right-hand side of the model.
29 After opening each eyebolt with tweezers, insert a ring and
then close the eyebolt.
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A Sapele strips 0.6 x 5 x 300mm
x 13
B Rudder
C Brass rod
D Hinges x 12
E Nails x 75
Stage 71: The rudder
and wood strips
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2 Cover the left side of the rudder with 0.6 x 5 x 300mm sapele
strips set lengthways
1
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4 Repeat Steps 2 to 3, and cover the right-hand side of the
rudder with strips of sapele. Finally, smooth all surfaces thoroughly
with a ne-grained sanding block.
3 Trim the outline of the rudder, eliminating the bits of strip that
go over the edges, and open the notches. e photo at the bottom
shows the result that you should achieve.
1 Smooth the edges of the rudder with ne-grained sandpaper.
Take a 0.6 x 5 x 300mm sapele strip, cut it and x it on the edge of the
rudder, following the dotted line shown in the photo.
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YOU WILL NEED
O Craft knife
O Pliers
O Metal glue
O PVA wood glue
O Masking tape
O Fine-grained sanding block
O Small saw
O Pencil
O Hand drill
O Clear matt varnish
O Flat paintbrush or air brush
O Sapele-coloured, ivory
paint and burnishing uid
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8 Once the paint is dry, give the entire rudder a coat of clear
matt protective varnish.
8
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5 With a saw, accentuate the joints between the strips,
making three surface grooves on both sides of the rudder,
parallel to the longer side.
56
6 Cover 46mm of the end of the rudder head with masking tape.
Paint the exposed surface with the same ivory white paint that you
used on the bottom of the hull.
10 Cut the ve hinges to t, taking the main photo as reference.
e length of the hinges increases progressively from the top
downwards. ese are known as the pintles.
7
7 Remove the tape and, with a at paintbrush and sapele-coloured
paint, coat the inside edge of the rudder head.
9 Take ve hinges, and without using glue, arrange them in
place on the rudder, aligning them with the top edge of the
notches.
10
46 mm
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13 Paint all of the hinges with burnishing uid. Paint the pintles
to be xed on the rudder, and the ve hinges that you will x on
the sternpost. ese are known as gudgeons.
16
16 Use pliers to squeeze the arms of the pintle and the gudgeon
around the pin. Assemble the other four pintles of the rudder,
repeating the steps taken for the rst.
11 Drill two holes in the rst pintle from the top. e holes should
be 2mm from both ends and be wide enough to take a nail.
12 Take the hull, place the rudder against the sternpost, aligning it
with the keel. Mark the position of the lower edges of the notches in
the rudder on the hull with a pencil.
14 Take the brass rod that came with this stage, and cut ve
6mm-long pieces, which you will use as the pintle pins on
the rudder.
15 Insert a 6mm pin in a pintle, xing it with a drop of metal
glue. en insert the end of the pin that protrudes from the pintle
into a gudgeon.
2
mm
6
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17 18
20 Take 11 rings and 11 eyebolts from those that came with
a previous stage and paint them with burnishing uid. After
enlarging each ring with pliers, insert an eyebolt in it, then close it.
20
18 In a similar fashion, x the other four pintles to the rudder,
each in its recess.
22 Make ve holes (two on each side, one on the narrow edge) at
the upper end of the rudder blade, as shown in the photo above. e
photo below shows the stern with the 11 eyebolts.
19
19 Now you have to join the rudder to the hull. Bring it close to
the sternpost, aligning the gudgeons with the pencil marks made in
Step 12. Fix it by putting nails in the holes.
17 Before starting to attach pintles to the rudder, shorten the
nails to prevent them protruding on the opposite side. Put the rst
pintle on the rudder. Fix it to the rudder with a nail in each hole.
21
21 Make six 0.5 mm holes on the stern of the hull in the red circles,
following the measurements shown. Glue an eyebolt with a ring
inside each hole.
20
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7
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27
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22
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20
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EYEBOLTS AND RINGS
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