Deagostini HMS Sovereign of Seas User guide

Build the largest warship of the 17th century

HMS

5

PACK

TM

Published in the UK by De Agostini UK Ltd.

Battersea Studios 2, 82 Silverthorne Road,

Battersea, London SW8 3HE

Published in the USA by

De Agostini Publishing USA, Inc.,

915 Broadway, Suite 609,

New York, NY 10010

Contents

ASSEMBLY GUIDE

187 Stage 46: Bamboo and basswood strips, cannonballs, fixing

the forecastle and quarterdeck bulwarks and

gratings for the third deck

191 Stage 47: Basswood strips, diecast columns and buckets, and

working the third deck

195 Stage 48: Basswood strips, bell housing and bell, belay pins and

buckets, making gun port frames and

cannonball racks

199 Stage 49: Windows and a plywood block, and making the bell housing

203 Stage 50: Windows, four window templates and brass mesh

207 Stage 51: Stern window parts, and building the bell housing

211 Stage 52: Stern friezes and a cannon

217 Stage 53: Transom embellishments, cannonballs, basswood

strip, planking the forecastle and quarterdeck

221 Stage 54: Stern lantern, and assembling and painting two figurines

225 Stage 55: Three cannons, and preparing and fixing the blocks

229 Stage 56: The right-hand quarterdeck gallery and a cannon

Build the largest warship of the 17th century

HMS

www.model-space.com

WARNING: Not suitable for children under the age of 14. This product is not a toy and is

not designed or intended for use in play. Items may vary from those shown.

TM

Stage 50: Windows, four window

templates and brass mesh

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3 With the craft knife, cut one of the two halves of the strip to

obtain two pieces 47mm long.

4 Glue the two 47mm-long pieces on the bulwark below the

quarterdeck, placing them in the positions indicated by the arrows.

187

A Bamboo strips 2 x 5 x 300mm x 14

B Basswood strips 1 x 3 x 300mm x 5

C Cannonballs x 90

D Grating joists for the third deck x 30

In all stages, parts may vary from those shown.

Stage 46: Bamboo and basswood strips,

cannonballs, xing the forecastle and quarterdeck

bulwarks and gratings for the third deck

1 Take the hull and the bamboo strips that came with this

stage. With these strips, you are going to cover the bulwarks of

the forecastle and quarterdeck that you assembled in Stage 45.

4

12

2 With a craft knife, split a strip of bamboo in half lengthwise,

as shown in the photo.

3

47mm

YOU WILL

NEED

O PVA wood glue

O Craft knife

O Fine-grained

sanding block

O Paintbrush

O Walnut stain

B

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8 To complete the covering of the central section, prepare a strip

47mm long and as wide as it takes to ll the space left uncovered.

8

9

5 Take another bamboo strip and cut a piece 47mm

in length.

56

6 Fix the piece just cut next to the one that you glued in Step 4,

the one closer to the right-hand side.

10

10 Complete the covering of the left-hand section of the bulwark

by xing other strips of the same length.

7

7 Cut other pieces of strip 47mm long and glue them side by

side, continuing to cover the central section of the bulwark.

9 Shape a piece of strip and x it to the left-hand end of the

bulwark, setting it against the hull. Fix another 47mm-long strip

next to it.

47mm

188

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12 With a ne-grained sanding block, smooth the upper edges of

the strips, making them level. e bulwark covering must project

15mm above the surface of the quarterdeck.

11

11 Following Steps 9 and 10, cover the right-hand section

of the bulwark.

14

13

13 Prepare a few pieces of bamboo strip to be glued between the

deck of the forecastle and the horizontal support 88.

12

14 Prepare as many 41mm-long bamboo strips as you

need to cover the entire bulwark of the forecastle. Glue the

strips in position.

15

15 Smooth the upper edges of the strips of the covering with a

ne-grained sanding block. e edges must project 15mm above

the deck of the forecastle.

16

15mm

40mm

MAKING THE GRATINGS OF THE THIRD DECK

16 Begin making the gratings for the third deck hatches. Take

two grating joists and cut them to a length of 40mm.

189

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20 Now use two 1 x 3 x 300mm-long strips of basswood to

make the frames for the two gratings. Apply walnut stain

to the two strips.

20

17 18

18 Complete the grating, inserting all the missing joists into the

frame. en use the same method to make a second grating.

22

22 Finally, repeat the previous step to make the frame for the

second grating. is assembly session is now nished, so put your

model and any spare pieces away safely.

19 Insert and glue the gratings into the two hatches on the third

deck. e gratings should be ush with the deck.

21 Cut to size two pieces of stained strip and glue them along

the longer edges of the rst grating, covering the joins between

the grating and the deck. Complete the frame by xing two other

stained strips to the shorter edges of the grating.

21

19

17 Join the two joists that you have just shortened, plus two

others of the original length, and form a rectangular frame. Put

a drop of glue on each point of contact (inset).

90°

190

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A Basswood strips 0.6 x 5

x 300mm x 38

B Diecast columns x 6

C Diecast buckets x 4

D Diecast bucket handles x 4

Stage 47: Basswood strips,

diecast columns and buckets,

and working the third deck

1

1 Take the hull, and protect the area on the third deck in front

of the quarterdeck bulwark with masking tape.

4

4 Repeat Steps 1 to 3 on the bulwark of the forecastle.

When nished, carefully remove all the masking tape protecting

the third deck.

2

2 With a ne-grained sanding block, smooth the bamboo

strips of the bulwark.

3

3 Using acrylic putty, ll the gaps between the strips and correct

any small imperfections. Wait for the putty to dry, then go over the

surface again with the sanding block.

A

BC

D

YOU WILL NEED

O PVA wood glue

O Craft knife

O Fine-grained

sanding block

O Masking tape

O Acrylic putty

O Pencil

O Ruler

O Flat paintbrush

O Red modelling

paint

O Walnut stain

191

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A

8 Smooth the inner surfaces of the bulwarks with a ne-grained

sanding block.

8

5 Next, you need to remove the rib frame projections

supporting the bulwarks of the third deck, on both sides of

the hull.

56

6 With a craft knife, make a small incision at the base of each

rib frame so that you can remove it. Completely remove all of

the rib frames.

10

7

9 Take one of the basswood strips supplied with this stage.

Smooth the edges, then, with the help of a ruler and pencil, cut out

the shapes shown in the lower photo so that you can x the strip on

the bulwark of the third deck without blocking the gun ports.

9

7 Make sure that the points where the rib frames were cut, on

both sides of the model, are perfectly level with the planking of the

third deck.

10 Fix the strip on the hull, gluing it to the base of the right

bulwark in the position shown in the photos.

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1211

12 Complete the covering of the bulwark by xing a whole strip

along the top edges of the gun ports, as shown in the photo.

15 If you have chosen the painted option, protect the planking

of the third deck with masking tape along the right bulwark.

15 16

16 Use a at paintbrush to paint the inside wall of the right

bulwark with the same red colour that you used previously on

other parts of the hull.

13

13 With a craft knife and ne-grained sandpaper, remove the

excess wood, levelling the strip with the edge of the bulwark.

14 Repeat Steps 9 to 13 to cover the left bulwark of the hull. e

photos above show what the two bulwarks of the third deck look

like at the end of the process.

11 Cover the inner wall of the bulwark, in the spaces between and

at the ends of the gun ports, with more strips of basswood. Cut the

strips to size with a craft knife.

14

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17 18

20 Fix the strip onto the hull by gluing it on the third deck in

contact with the left bulwark, as shown in the photo.

20

21

17 When the paint has dried, gently remove the masking

tape from the third deck.

18 Repeat the process to paint the inside wall of the left bulwark.

19 Take one of the strips of basswood that came with this stage,

and coat it with walnut stain.

21 Coat a second strip with walnut stain, then glue it onto the

third deck in contact with the right bulwark.

19

22 Put the hull and the unused pieces away in a safe place for

your next assembly session.

22

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A Bell housing

B Belay pins x 8

C Buckets x 4

D Bucket handles x 4

E Bell

F Decoration

G Strip of basswood 2 x 5 x 300mm

H Strip of basswood 3 x 3 x 300mm

Stage 48: Basswood strips, bell housing

and bell, belay pins and buckets, making

gun port frames and cannonball racks

3

1

1 Take the hull and, if you have opted for the decorated version,

cover the areas of the deck in front of the quarterdeck and forecastle

bulwarks with masking tape.

4

3 Wait for the paint to dry completely, then remove the

masking tape that you used to protect the deck planking.

4 Take two of the 1 x 3 x 300mm strips of basswood that came

with Stage 46, and coat them with walnut stain.

G

2

2 Paint the walls the same black colour that you used in previous

assembly sessions to paint the outside of the hull.

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YOU WILL NEED

O Masking tape

O Craft knife

O PVA wood glue

O Fine-grained sanding block

O Sheet of ne-grained

sandpaper

O Flat metal le

O Cyanoacrylate glue

O Tweezers

O Flat paintbrush

O Fine paintbrush

O Black, wood-coloured and

ivory modelling paint

O Walnut stain

O Pencil

195

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47 mm

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mm

8 Take another 1 x 3 x 300mm strip of basswood and cut it to

make three pieces of the sizes shown in the lower right photo.

9

5 From one of the strips, cut two pieces the height of the

bulwark and glue them inside it on either side of a gun port, as

shown in the photo.

56

6 As you did in Step 5, cut as many pieces of strip as you need to

cover the side edges of all the gun ports on the third deck. Glue the

pieces in position.

10

10 Glue the cannonball rack to the deck and bulwark, midway

between two gun ports.

7

7 With a ne-grained sanding block, go over the ends of the

pieces you have xed at the sides of the gun ports, sanding them

level with the upper edges of the bulwarks.

9 Glue the two shorter pieces to the ends of the longer one,

checking that the three pieces are at right angles to one another

as in the photo. is makes a rack for the cannonballs.

8

10mm 3mm

3mm

90°

MAKING THE CANNONBALL RACKS

196

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12

12 Take the cannonballs that you received with Stage 46, and

arrange a few of them in each rack.

15

11 Repeat Steps 9 to 10 to make seven more cannonball racks and

glue them into place, so that you have four racks on each side.

14

14 Take one of the buckets that came with Stages 47 and 48. With

a at metal le, go over the outer surfaces of the piece, eliminating

any imperfections.

13 is is what the two sides of the hull will look like after all of

the cannonball racks have been tted and lled with shot.

16 Take one of the handles received with Stages 47 and 48, and,

using tweezers, x it onto the bucket in the position shown in the

two inset photos.

11

13

15 Put a small amount of cyanoacrylate glue on each of the two

lugs on the upper rim of the bucket.

16

MAKING THE BUCKETS

197

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20 Repeat Steps 14 to 19 to assemble and decorate the other

seven buckets.

20

21

17 Using a ne paintbrush, coat the bucket with wood-

coloured paint. When that coating is dry, paint the hoops black

and the handle ivory.

18 Rub the tip of a pencil on a sheet of ne-grained sandpaper to

produce graphite powder.

22 Here is what the deck of the ship looks like with the buckets

correctly arranged in place. Put the model away safely until the

next assembly session.

19 Put a drop of cyanoacrylate glue inside the bucket, then ll

it with the graphite powder you prepared in Step 18.

21 Now glue a bucket in front of every cannonball rack that you

have installed on your model.

22

19

17 18

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A Window parts

B Plywood block 2 x 55 x

13.6mm

Stage 49: Windows and a plywood

block, and making the bell housing

3

2

1 With a at metal le, go over the edges of the window parts

PA1, PA2, PA21 and PA22, removing any burrs resulting from the

casting process.

4

4 With a ne paintbrush, paint the at sections of PA1 and

PA22 with the same black paint that you used for the hull.

AB

1

2 Without using glue, make sure the window parts t together

correctly, as shown above.

3 To prepare the windows for painting, coat them with a

metal primer with a small paintbrush.

PA21

PA2

PA22

PA1

YOU WILL NEED

O PVA wood glue

O Craft knife

O Fine-grained

sanding block

O Flat metal le

O Round le

O Twee zers

O Fine paintbrush

O Flat paintbrush

O Metal primer

O Black and gold

modelling paint

O Walnut stain

199

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8 You now need the parts of the bell housing that came with

Stage 48. For easy identication, we have numbered each of the

parts in the above photo.

8

56

10

10 With a ne-grained sanding block, bevel the edges on the four

sides of piece 76 to obtain the result shown in the photo.

7

7 Here is how the window parts look when painted. Keep

them together safely with the plywood block until your next

assembly session.

9 Cut out one of the two parts 76 and 77. Spread a thin layer

of glue on part 77, as indicated by the dotted white line, and glue

part 76 onto it.

5 Complete the colouring of parts PA1 and PA22, painting

areas not yet painted with gold paint.

6 Paint parts PA2 and PA21, as shown in the photos – the

front face of the pieces with gold paint, and inner edges of the

windows with black.

9

79 76 81

82

77 76 80

83 84

MAKING THE BELL HOUSING

200

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11 Using walnut stain, paint the two pieces that you have just

glued together. ese will form the base of the bell housing.

14 Using a at paintbrush, coat the four columns with

walnut stain.

16

11

12 Take the 3 x 3 x 300mm strip of basswood that you received

with Stage 48 and cut four pieces, each 25mm long.

12

13 14

13 Now shape the four pieces of strip to make the columns of the

bell housing. With a at le, bevel the edges of the central portion

of each piece, following the measurements shown.

15

15 Apply a little glue to each of the recesses at the corners of the

base, and x the columns into them. Make sure the columns are at

right angles to the base.

5mm

25mm

16 To make the roof of the bell housing, rst cut out the second

part 76 along with the part 79. Apply a thin layer of glue near the

edges of the part 76, as indicated by the dotted white line.

90°

201

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18

20 Now, working with a round le, shape the side edges of the

assembly to give them an even, shallow concave prole.

21

18 As you did in Step 10 with part 76, round the edges on all four

sides of part 79, using a ne-grained sanding block.

22

22 Put away the parts of the bell housing already assembled, plus

the unused parts, until they are needed again.

21 is is how the base and roof of the bell housing should look

at the end of this stage.

17

17 Hold the part 79 with the face on which a square is

printed uppermost. Glue the part 79 onto the part 76, aligning

the edges of the two parts.

19 Cut out part 80 and glue it centrally on part 79. To position it

accurately, use the square printed on part 79 as a guide.

19 20

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A Window parts

B Templates for the stern

windows

C Templates for the quarter

gallery windows

D Brass mesh 25 x 20mm

E Brass mesh 35 x 30mm

Stage 50: Windows, four window

templates and brass mesh

A

3

2

3 Apply metal primer to the window parts with a small

paintbrush to prepare them for painting.

4 With a ne paintbrush, paint the outer surfaces of parts PA4

and PA19 in gold, and the inner surfaces in the black that you used

for the hull.

1

1 With a at metal le, smooth window parts PA3, PA4, PA5,

PA18, PA19 and PA20 to eliminate any unevenness or burrs.

2 Without using glue, check that the window parts PA3, PA4,

PA19 and PA20 t together properly, as shown in the photo.

4

ED

PA19 PA4

PA20

PA5PA18

PA3

PA19

PA20

PA4

PA3

2

C

B

YOU WILL NEED

O Metal glue

O Flat metal le

O Tweezers

O Masking tape

O Fine paintbrush

O Flat paintbrush

O Metal primer

O Black and gold

modelling paint

O Modelling putty

203

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8 As in Step 6, use the templates of the stern windows (indicated

by the dotted red lines) as guides and cut the 35 x 30mm brass

mesh to obtain six pieces, as shown in the inset photo.

5 Using a ne paintbrush, paint window parts PA3 and

PA20 in gold.

56

6 Now, using the two templates of the stern windows (indicated

by the red arrows) as guides, cut the 25 x 20mm brass mesh to

obtain the two pieces shown in the inset photo.

10 Take the hull and, using a at paintbrush for the broad areas

and a ne one for the details, apply black paint to the quarter

galleries and the transom.

9 Fix the six pieces of brass mesh onto the backs of the window

parts PA2 and PA21 that were supplied with Stage 49.

7

7 Glue the two pieces of brass mesh onto the back of the window

parts PA4 and PA19.

8

910

PA2 PA21

204

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Deagostini HMS Sovereign of Seas User guide

Deagostini HMS Sovereign of Seas User guide

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