Deagostini HMS Sovereign of Seas User guide

Brand: Deagostini

Model: HMS Sovereign of Seas

Type: User guide

Deagostini HMS Sovereign of Seas is a highly detailed and realistic model ship kit that allows you to build a stunning replica of one of the most famous warships of the 17th century. With over 1000 parts, this model is perfect for experienced modelers looking for a challenging and rewarding project. The kit includes everything you need to build the model, including wood, metal, and plastic parts, as well as detailed instructions. Once completed, the model will be a beautiful and impressive display piece that is sure to be admired by all who see it.

Build the largest warship of the 17th century

HMS

PACK

Published in the UK by De Agostini UK Ltd,

Battersea Studios 2, 82 Silverthorne Road,

Battersea, London SW8 3HE

Published in the USA by

De Agostini Publishing USA Inc.,

915 Broadway, Suite 609,

New York, NY 10010

Contents

ASSEMBLY GUIDE

40 Stage 12: Stringers and beams of the lower deck

43 Stage 13: Detaching the launch from the assembly jig

and making the anchor

46 Stage 14: The second deck and fitting out the launch

49 Stage 15: Stern assembly pieces and painting the launch

52 Stage 16: Parts of the stern, oars and bucket

56 Stage 17: Pins, bamboo and sapele strips for the hull

60 Stage 18: Pins, bamboo and sapele strips for the hull

64 Stage 19: More pins, bamboo and sapele strips

and painting the launch

68 Stage 20: Pins, bamboo and sapele strips

and fitting out the launch

72 Stage 21: More pins, bamboo and sapele strips

and fitting out the launch

76 Stage 22: Two cannons and blocks

Build the largest warship of the 17th century

HMS

www.model-space.com

WARNING: Not suitable for children under the age of 14. This product is not a toy and is

not designed or intended for use in play. Items may vary from those shown.

YOU WILL NEED

O PVA wood glue

O Craft knife

O Small hammer

O Pencil

O Razor saw

O Mitre block

O Clamps

1 Using a small hammer, pin the lower deck to the rib frames,

along the lines that you drew in the previous stage.

3 Mark a line on the wooden strip with a pencil, corresponding

to half of rib frame 21. Remove the strip and saw o the part

beyond the line you have drawn.

2 Insert a 3 x 13 x 250mm wooden strip (without glue) into the

lower slots of rib frames 13, 15, 16, 20 and 21; the front end of

the strip must cover only half of rib frame 13.

4 Glue the strip in the lower slots of the frames, as in the

photo. e two ends of the strip must cover exactly half of

frames 13 and 21.

A Six wood strips of 3 x 13 x 250mm

B 10 wood strips of 2 x 4 x 250mm

C 10mm pins x 44

D Brass strip support for the rudder

and the mast (B-1)

E Brass mesh (B-2)

Stage 12: Stringers and

beams of the lower deck

8 Glue the strip into the lower slots of frames 5, 6, 7 and 13: the

slots will help give the necessary curve. To increase bonding, you

can use clamps.

5 Repeat the operation with another 3 x 13 x 250mm strip,

which you glue to the same numbered rib frames, but on the

opposite side of the deck, as shown in the photo.

6 Take another 3 x 13 x 250mm strip and make a pencil line at

the length indicated in the photo. Saw o the excess.

10 Take rib frame 27 assembly (made in Stage 9) and locate it,

without glue, in the slot of stern section 23.

7 On the shortened strip make two pencil lines at the lengths

indicated in the photo, then saw a slight groove on each of the lines

(not shown).

9 Repeat with another strip, gluing it to the same numbered rib

frames on the opposite side of the deck, as shown in the photo.

185 mm

67mm 57mm

12 Mark on the shortened strip another line at the length

indicated in the photo; then saw a slight groove on the line.

15 Cut o the excess and glue the ends into the supports of the

rib frame. You have now created the rst beam; the photo shows

the correct result.

11 Take the fth 3 x 13 x 250mm strip and, as before, draw a line

at the length indicated in the photo, then saw o the excess.

14 Now take a 2 x 4 x 250mm wood strip: place the end in the

support of rib frame 15, as shown in the photo, and make a pencil

mark at the opposite end.

13 Bend the strip and glue it into the lower slots of rib frames

21, 22 and 26. Repeat on the opposite side with the last 3 x 13 x

250mm strip: you have now completed the stringers of the deck.

16 With the remaining strips, assemble the other nine beams of

the deck. en remove rib frame 27 from the false keel and keep it

together with the parts B-1 and B-2 for future assembly.

178mm

98mm

X FOTOLITO: il viraggio del

colore di fondo delle foto da

cyan ad azzurro chiaro va

eseguito come fatto per il

numero 1.

1 Take the launch and the two 0.6 x 3 x 250mm strips

remaining after the assembly described in Stage 11. Smooth away

any irregularities on the hull with a sanding block.

3 With a craft knife, cut o the excess strip. Repeat the

operation on the opposite side of the boat with the second

of the 0.6 x 3 x 250mm strips.

2 Bend one of the 0.6 x 3 x 250mm strips and glue it along

the side of the boat, resting it on the protruding edges of the rib

frames, as the shown in the photo.

4 Again, cut o the excess strip with a craft knife. e photo

shows what the assembly should look like.

A 0.15mm cotton thread

B Bucket (B-7) and bucket handle (B-8)

C Metal oars (B-6) x 8

D Anchor (B-4) and anchor stock (B-5)

E 120mm-long rod with a 2mm diameter

F 0.6 x 3 x 250mm wood strips x 2

G 1 x 3 x 250mm wood strips x 5

Parts may vary from those shown.

Stage 13: Detaching the

launch from the assembly jig

and making the anchor

YOU WILL

NEED

O Sanding block

O PVA wood glue

O Craft knife

O Medium-grain

sandpaper

O Cutters

O Razor saw

O Tweezers

O Metal le

O Paintbrush or

airbrush

O Black modelling

paint

O Matt dark brown

modelling paint

8 With cutters and a craft knife, remove all wastage and

protrusions of the frames, so that the gunwales of the boat

are level. Work with particular care in this phase.

5 With the cutters, make a series of notches at an acute

angle on both sides of the rib frame supports: the result

should look like that in the photo.

6 With a razor saw, complete the cutting of the rib frame

supports, proceeding with great care lengthwise along the notches

that you have just made.

10 Take the fret that came with Stage 8 and cut out the keel of

the launch – the piece marked 17.

7 To complete the cutting of the stern frames, keep the saw

at right angles to the stern. e photo shows the boat properly

separated from the assembly jig.

9 With the sanding block, remove any roughness remaining on

the frames and level and round o the upper ends to achieve the

result shown in the photo.

12 Check that the keel is centred on the bottom of the hull. Use a

sanding block to remove any overhang at the stern, matching it to

the detail above.

15 Take parts B-4 and B-5. Glue the stock on the anchor, making

sure that the stock is at a right angle to the ukes. With a brush or

airbrush, cover the anchor with black paint.

11 Place the keel on the centre of the hull and make any necessary

adjustments to make it t. Spread glue along the inner edge of the

keel, and x it along the centre of the hull, as shown in the photo.

14 Use a metal le to remove any irregularities and burrs from the

metal pieces that arrived with this stage.

13 Sandpaper the ends of the frames and the top of the keel to

soften the dark colour left by cutting. Put it aside for later stages

in the assembly.

16 With a ne paintbrush, colour the stock B-5 with brown paint.

Put aside the nished anchor, along with the other pieces supplied

with this stage, for later stages of the assembly.

MAKING THE LAUNCH’S ANCHOR

Take the hull assembled so far and saw o the excess of the

two stringers protruding from rib frame 26. Smooth the cut ends

with a sanding block.

Fit and glue the second board 40 to the left half of the same

beams, making sure that it ts tightly together with the board

already xed.

Remove the rst board 40 from the die, then t and glue it to

the right half of the beams corresponding to the forward frames 5,

6, 7 and 13.

Remove the rst board 41 from the die and t and glue it

to the right half of the beams corresponding to the amidship rib

frames 13, 15, 16, 20 and 21.

A Two shaped boards (40)

B Two shaped boards (42)

C Two shaped boards (41)

Parts may vary from

those shown.

Stage 14: The second

deck and tting out

the launch

O Razor saw

O Sanding block

O Black

modelling paint

O Paintbrush

O PVA wood glue

O Craft knife

O Ruler

YOU WILL NEED

8 If you have opted for a decorative nish for your model, paint

the outer surfaces of the stringers and decks with black modelling

paint, as shown in the photo.

5 Repeat the operation with the second board 41, which

must be attached to the left half of the same beams, tting

perfectly with the previous board.

6 Remove the rst board 42 from the die and glue it to the right

half of the beams corresponding to stern rib frames 21, 22 and 26.

With a ruler and a craft knife, cut a 1mm-wide piece from

the strip. Mark two parallel lines on the bottom of the boat, 8mm

from the keel on both sides, using the measurements in the photo.

7 Finally, x the second board 42 to the left half of the same

beams, making it t perfectly with the rst. You have now

completed the second deck of the ship.

9 Take the launch assembled so far and one of the 0.6 x 3 x

250mm strips that came with the previous stage.

60mm

23mm

8mm

FITTING OUT THE LAUNCH

12 Following the measurements shown in the photo, mark four

squares on each edge of the launch with a pencil. ese will serve as

a guide for making an equal number of slots. (See Step 13.)

15 Take a second 0.6 x 3 x 250mm strip and smooth it with ne-

grain sandpaper, then cut two 82mm-long pieces from it.

11 Cut two 60mm-long pieces from the 0.6 x 1 x 250mm strip.

Glue them on the lines that you marked on the bottom of the hull

and round the ends with a sanding block when the glue is dry.

14 With a ruler and pencil, make a horizontal line on the rib

frames on both sides of the boat, 4mm from the edge, as shown

in the photo.

With a le, cut eight slots where you made your pencil

marks on the edges of the boat. e photo shows you the

correct outcome.

16 Glue the two 82mm strips on the inner sides of the boat,

aligning the tops with the lines that you drew on the rib frames,

as shown in the photos.

26mm 10mm

4mm

2mm

YOU WILL NEED

O PVA wood glue

O Craft knife

O Fine-grained

sandpaper

O Paintbrush or

airbrush

O Ivory modelling

paint

O Burgundy

modelling paint

O Tweezers

O Masking Tape

Remove the two brackets 34 and the stern lower deck 44

from the die with a craft knife. After spreading glue on the upper

edge of one of the brackets, t it upside down in the stern lower

deck 44, as shown in the photo.

Take the assembly of frame 27 made in Stage 9. Apply glue

to the edge of the two brackets 34 at the two notches indicated in

the photo with arrows.

Do the same with the second bracket 34. Check that both

brackets form right angles with the stern lower deck 44 and that

the joints correspond to those shown in the photo.

Join the assembly of the stern lower deck 44 and the two

brackets 34 with the group of frame 27, following the movement

indicated by the arrows in the photo.

A Two brackets (34)

B Stern upper deck (42)

C Two central struts (43)

D Stern lower deck (44)

E Two rear struts (45)

Parts may vary from

those shown.

Stage 15: Stern assembly

pieces and painting the

launch

90°

10 Remove the rst of the two rear struts 45 from the die.

Smooth the edges with ne-grained sandpaper and apply glue

along the edges of the notches indicated by the arrows.

7 Do the same with the second central strut 43. Remove it

from the die, apply glue to the top edge and mount it on the

stern lower deck 44. Make sure that both struts are perpendicular

to the stern lower deck.

9 e end result should look like the assembly in the two

photos above.

8Take the stern upper deck 42 from the die. Spread glue on

the upper edges of the two central struts 43 and on the side ends

of the stern upper deck 42. Fit the pieces together, following the

movement indicated by the arrows in the photo.

6Take the rst central strut 43 from the die. Apply glue lightly

to the bottom edge of the piece and t it into the stern lower deck

44, as shown in the photo.

5 e result should match the assembly shown in the two

photos above. Check that all the joints t together perfectly.

90°

12 e correct result is shown in the photo: the rear strut 45

connects the two decks (42 and 44) with bracket 30 located to

the outside on the right.

Wait until the paint has dried completely, then cover the outer

part of the hull with masking tape, as shown in the photo.

11 Join the rear strut 45 to the rib frame group 27, which you

assembled previously. Make sure that it ts with the two stern

decks (lower 44 and upper 42) and with the bracket 30 at the

points indicated by the three arrows.

14 If you have opted for the decorative nish, take the launch as

you left it at the end of Stage 13. Use a paintbrush or airbrush to

colour the outer hull ivory white.

13 Repeat with the second strut 45. Remove it from the die, sand

it and place it on the opposite side of the frame 27 assembly. e

end result should match what you see in the two photos.

With a paintbrush or airbrush, colour the entire inner surface

of the launch burgundy. When the paint is dry, remove the

masking tape that you used to protect the outer hull of the launch.

PAINTING THE LAUNCH

15 16

A Two supporting pieces (46)

B Stern deck extension (47)

C Two bracing pieces (48)

D Two half-frames (49)

E Sapele strips x 20

F Bamboo strips 2 x 5 x 300mm x 22

G Pins x 50

Parts may vary from those shown.

Stage 16: Parts of the stern,

oars and bucket

3 Repeat the operation with the second support 46, checking

that the upper edges match.

2 Make sure that the top edge of part 46 ts ush with the top

of the part of the stern.

1 Take the partially assembled hull from the last phase of the

assembly. With a craft knife, remove one of the two supporting

pieces 46 from the die and glue it to the stern section of the false

keel 23, as shown in the photo.

4 Remove the left half-frame 49 from the die. Smooth the edges

with ne-grained sandpaper and apply a little glue on the inner

edge, as shown by the dotted line.

YOU WILL NEED

O PVA wood glue

O Craft knife

O Fine-grained sandpaper

O Fine paintbrush

O Ivory modelling paint

O Brown (wood) modelling

paint

O Black modelling paint

O Fine metal le

O Metal glue

8 Apply glue along the entire upper edge of the four elements

you assembled (the two support elements 46 and the two half-

frames 49). Follow the dotted white lines.

5 Glue the half-frame, inserting it into the slot of support 46

which you assembled previously.

6 Make sure that the half-frame forms a right angle with the

section of the keel 23, as shown in the photo.

10 Check that the stern deck extension 47 forms a right

angle with the two half-frames underneath, and that all

the joints t properly.

7 Repeat the operation with the right half-frame 49, making

sure that it mirrors the one on the left, and is at a right angle to

the false keel.

9 Remove the stern deck extension 47 from the die and t it

horizontally, as shown in the photo.

90°

5 6

12 Apply a layer of glue along the rear edge of the stern deck

extension 47, shown by the white dotted line.

15 Cut the rst bracing piece 48 from the die. Apply glue on

the inner edge and on one face of the piece, as indicated by the

dotted lines.

11 Take the stern assembly that you assembled at the end of Stage

15 and apply glue to the lower slot, indicated by the dotted line.

14 Check that the stern assembly and the stern deck extension 47

form a right angle.

13 Place the stern assembly so that frame 27 ts section 23 of

the false keel, as shown in the photo.

16 Glue bracing piece 48 on the front part of rib frame 27, taking

care that the upper edge of the piece touches the stern extension

47.

90°

20 If you have opted for the decorative nish, paint the blades of

the oars (B-6) ivory, and the remaining parts in wood colour, with

a ne paintbrush.

17 Check that the outer edge of reinforcing piece 48 is

aligned with the rounded prole of rib frame 27a which

completes rib frame 27.

17 18

18 Repeat the operation with the other reinforcing piece 48 and

glue it on the opposite side of the lower part of rib frame 27.

22 Glue the handle (B-8) to the bucket (B-7), in the position

shown, with metal glue. Using a ne paintbrush, paint the bucket

wood colour, the handle ivory and the two rings black.

19 Take the eight metal oars (B-6), the bucket (B-7) and the

bucket handle (B-8), which you received with Stage 13. Smooth

the surfaces of the pieces with a ne metal le.

21 Allow the paint to dry, then tie the eight oars together using

the thread (diameter 0.15mm) that came with Stage 13.

Ivory Wood

Ivory

Wood Black

THE OARS AND BUCKET FOR THE LAUNCH

A Bamboo strips 2 x 5 x 300mm x 22

B Sapele strips 1.5 x 5 x 300mm x 20

C Pins x 50

Parts may vary from those shown.

Stage 17: Pins,

bamboo and sapele

strips for the hull

Take the bamboo strip and check that it touches the bow

formers across their entire thickness, as shown in the photo.

4 Continue the work of bevelling all the frames of the hull. To

achieve a perfect covering, it is essential that the prole of the rib

frames follow the curvature of the hull.

With a le, bevel the edges of the bow formers and the rst

rib frames, creating on both sides of the hull ‘mitre angles’ (see

inset photo).

1 Take the hull. Shape a bamboo strip with plank-bending

pliers (or by soaking it in hot water), and wrap it around the bow

formers. Find the areas that need to be bevelled so that the strip

rests on the thickness of the wood, not just the edge.

YOU WILL NEED

O PVA wood glue

O File

O Fine-grained

sandpaper

O Pin pusher

O Pliers

O Sanding block

O Cutters

O Plank-bending pliers

5 With a le, shape the two bracing pieces 24 (one on each

side) that you used to join together the false keel sections 17

and 23.

6 Now turn the hull over and apply a thin layer of glue on the

edges of the stern brackets 28, 29 and 30 at the points shown

in the photo.

910

10 Continue covering the stern brackets. Cut four strips in half

and glue them to the right and left of the sternpost. In this case,

it is not necessary to x them with pins.

9 When the glue is dry, carefully pull out all the pins you

used to x the strips with pliers.

8 Repeating the same procedure, continue to cover the stern

brackets by adding ve more strips, as shown in the photo.

e nal one should touch the sternpost.

7 Glue a bamboo strip to the stern brackets and x it with a pin-

pusher tool and pins. Make sure that this, and subsequent strips,

are long enough to extend beyond the outer brackets. Do not drive

the pins in completely, as later you will remove them with pliers.

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Deagostini HMS Sovereign of Seas User guide

Deagostini HMS Sovereign of Seas User guide

Deagostini HMS Sovereign of Seas User guide

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