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Build the largest warship of the 17th century
HMS
2
PACK
TM
All rights reserved © 2015
Published in the UK by De Agostini UK Ltd,
Battersea Studios 2, 82 Silverthorne Road,
Battersea, London SW8 3HE
Published in the USA by
De Agostini Publishing USA Inc.,
915 Broadway, Suite 609,
New York, NY 10010
Contents
ASSEMBLY GUIDE
40 Stage 12: Stringers and beams of the lower deck
43 Stage 13: Detaching the launch from the assembly jig
and making the anchor
46 Stage 14: The second deck and fitting out the launch
49 Stage 15: Stern assembly pieces and painting the launch
52 Stage 16: Parts of the stern, oars and bucket
56 Stage 17: Pins, bamboo and sapele strips for the hull
60 Stage 18: Pins, bamboo and sapele strips for the hull
64 Stage 19: More pins, bamboo and sapele strips
and painting the launch
68 Stage 20: Pins, bamboo and sapele strips
and fitting out the launch
72 Stage 21: More pins, bamboo and sapele strips
and fitting out the launch
76 Stage 22: Two cannons and blocks
Build the largest warship of the 17th century
HMS
www.model-space.com
WARNING: Not suitable for children under the age of 14. This product is not a toy and is
not designed or intended for use in play. Items may vary from those shown.
TM
YOU WILL NEED
O PVA wood glue
O Craft knife
O Small hammer
O Pencil
O Razor saw
O Mitre block
O Clamps
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1 Using a small hammer, pin the lower deck to the rib frames,
along the lines that you drew in the previous stage.
3 Mark a line on the wooden strip with a pencil, corresponding
to half of rib frame 21. Remove the strip and saw o the part
beyond the line you have drawn.
2 Insert a 3 x 13 x 250mm wooden strip (without glue) into the
lower slots of rib frames 13, 15, 16, 20 and 21; the front end of
the strip must cover only half of rib frame 13.
4 Glue the strip in the lower slots of the frames, as in the
photo. e two ends of the strip must cover exactly half of
frames 13 and 21.
A Six wood strips of 3 x 13 x 250mm
B 10 wood strips of 2 x 4 x 250mm
C 10mm pins x 44
D Brass strip support for the rudder
and the mast (B-1)
E Brass mesh (B-2)
Stage 12: Stringers and
beams of the lower deck
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8 Glue the strip into the lower slots of frames 5, 6, 7 and 13: the
slots will help give the necessary curve. To increase bonding, you
can use clamps.
8
9
5 Repeat the operation with another 3 x 13 x 250mm strip,
which you glue to the same numbered rib frames, but on the
opposite side of the deck, as shown in the photo.
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6 Take another 3 x 13 x 250mm strip and make a pencil line at
the length indicated in the photo. Saw o the excess.
10
10 Take rib frame 27 assembly (made in Stage 9) and locate it,
without glue, in the slot of stern section 23.
7
7 On the shortened strip make two pencil lines at the lengths
indicated in the photo, then saw a slight groove on each of the lines
(not shown).
9 Repeat with another strip, gluing it to the same numbered rib
frames on the opposite side of the deck, as shown in the photo.
185 mm
67mm 57mm
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12 Mark on the shortened strip another line at the length
indicated in the photo; then saw a slight groove on the line.
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15 Cut o the excess and glue the ends into the supports of the
rib frame. You have now created the rst beam; the photo shows
the correct result.
15
11
11 Take the fth 3 x 13 x 250mm strip and, as before, draw a line
at the length indicated in the photo, then saw o the excess.
14
14 Now take a 2 x 4 x 250mm wood strip: place the end in the
support of rib frame 15, as shown in the photo, and make a pencil
mark at the opposite end.
13
13 Bend the strip and glue it into the lower slots of rib frames
21, 22 and 26. Repeat on the opposite side with the last 3 x 13 x
250mm strip: you have now completed the stringers of the deck.
16
16 With the remaining strips, assemble the other nine beams of
the deck. en remove rib frame 27 from the false keel and keep it
together with the parts B-1 and B-2 for future assembly.
178mm
98mm
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X FOTOLITO: il viraggio del
colore di fondo delle foto da
cyan ad azzurro chiaro va
eseguito come fatto per il
numero 1.
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1 Take the launch and the two 0.6 x 3 x 250mm strips
remaining after the assembly described in Stage 11. Smooth away
any irregularities on the hull with a sanding block.
3 With a craft knife, cut o the excess strip. Repeat the
operation on the opposite side of the boat with the second
of the 0.6 x 3 x 250mm strips.
2 Bend one of the 0.6 x 3 x 250mm strips and glue it along
the side of the boat, resting it on the protruding edges of the rib
frames, as the shown in the photo.
4 Again, cut o the excess strip with a craft knife. e photo
shows what the assembly should look like.
A 0.15mm cotton thread
B Bucket (B-7) and bucket handle (B-8)
C Metal oars (B-6) x 8
D Anchor (B-4) and anchor stock (B-5)
E 120mm-long rod with a 2mm diameter
F 0.6 x 3 x 250mm wood strips x 2
G 1 x 3 x 250mm wood strips x 5
Parts may vary from those shown.
Stage 13: Detaching the
launch from the assembly jig
and making the anchor
A
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YOU WILL
NEED
O Sanding block
O PVA wood glue
O Craft knife
O Medium-grain
sandpaper
O Cutters
O Razor saw
O Tweezers
O Metal le
O Paintbrush or
airbrush
O Black modelling
paint
O Matt dark brown
modelling paint
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8 With cutters and a craft knife, remove all wastage and
protrusions of the frames, so that the gunwales of the boat
are level. Work with particular care in this phase.
8
9
5 With the cutters, make a series of notches at an acute
angle on both sides of the rib frame supports: the result
should look like that in the photo.
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6 With a razor saw, complete the cutting of the rib frame
supports, proceeding with great care lengthwise along the notches
that you have just made.
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10 Take the fret that came with Stage 8 and cut out the keel of
the launch – the piece marked 17.
7
7 To complete the cutting of the stern frames, keep the saw
at right angles to the stern. e photo shows the boat properly
separated from the assembly jig.
9 With the sanding block, remove any roughness remaining on
the frames and level and round o the upper ends to achieve the
result shown in the photo.
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12 Check that the keel is centred on the bottom of the hull. Use a
sanding block to remove any overhang at the stern, matching it to
the detail above.
12
15 Take parts B-4 and B-5. Glue the stock on the anchor, making
sure that the stock is at a right angle to the ukes. With a brush or
airbrush, cover the anchor with black paint.
15
11
11 Place the keel on the centre of the hull and make any necessary
adjustments to make it t. Spread glue along the inner edge of the
keel, and x it along the centre of the hull, as shown in the photo.
14
14 Use a metal le to remove any irregularities and burrs from the
metal pieces that arrived with this stage.
13
13 Sandpaper the ends of the frames and the top of the keel to
soften the dark colour left by cutting. Put it aside for later stages
in the assembly.
16
16 With a ne paintbrush, colour the stock B-5 with brown paint.
Put aside the nished anchor, along with the other pieces supplied
with this stage, for later stages of the assembly.
MAKING THE LAUNCH’S ANCHOR
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Take the hull assembled so far and saw o the excess of the
two stringers protruding from rib frame 26. Smooth the cut ends
with a sanding block.
3
Fit and glue the second board 40 to the left half of the same
beams, making sure that it ts tightly together with the board
already xed.
2
Remove the rst board 40 from the die, then t and glue it to
the right half of the beams corresponding to the forward frames 5,
6, 7 and 13.
4
Remove the rst board 41 from the die and t and glue it
to the right half of the beams corresponding to the amidship rib
frames 13, 15, 16, 20 and 21.
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A Two shaped boards (40)
B Two shaped boards (42)
C Two shaped boards (41)
Parts may vary from
those shown.
Stage 14: The second
deck and tting out
the launch
O Razor saw
O Sanding block
O Black
modelling paint
O Paintbrush
O PVA wood glue
O Craft knife
O Ruler
YOU WILL NEED
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A
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C
8 If you have opted for a decorative nish for your model, paint
the outer surfaces of the stringers and decks with black modelling
paint, as shown in the photo.
8
9
5 Repeat the operation with the second board 41, which
must be attached to the left half of the same beams, tting
perfectly with the previous board.
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6 Remove the rst board 42 from the die and glue it to the right
half of the beams corresponding to stern rib frames 21, 22 and 26.
10
With a ruler and a craft knife, cut a 1mm-wide piece from
the strip. Mark two parallel lines on the bottom of the boat, 8mm
from the keel on both sides, using the measurements in the photo.
7
7 Finally, x the second board 42 to the left half of the same
beams, making it t perfectly with the rst. You have now
completed the second deck of the ship.
9 Take the launch assembled so far and one of the 0.6 x 3 x
250mm strips that came with the previous stage.
60mm
60mm
23mm
23mm
8mm
8mm
FITTING OUT THE LAUNCH
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12 Following the measurements shown in the photo, mark four
squares on each edge of the launch with a pencil. ese will serve as
a guide for making an equal number of slots. (See Step 13.)
12
15 Take a second 0.6 x 3 x 250mm strip and smooth it with ne-
grain sandpaper, then cut two 82mm-long pieces from it.
15
11
11 Cut two 60mm-long pieces from the 0.6 x 1 x 250mm strip.
Glue them on the lines that you marked on the bottom of the hull
and round the ends with a sanding block when the glue is dry.
14
14 With a ruler and pencil, make a horizontal line on the rib
frames on both sides of the boat, 4mm from the edge, as shown
in the photo.
With a le, cut eight slots where you made your pencil
marks on the edges of the boat. e photo shows you the
correct outcome.
16
16 Glue the two 82mm strips on the inner sides of the boat,
aligning the tops with the lines that you drew on the rib frames,
as shown in the photos.
13
26mm 10mm
4mm
2mm
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YOU WILL NEED
O PVA wood glue
O Craft knife
O Fine-grained
sandpaper
O Paintbrush or
airbrush
O Ivory modelling
paint
O Burgundy
modelling paint
O Tweezers
O Masking Tape
1
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Remove the two brackets 34 and the stern lower deck 44
from the die with a craft knife. After spreading glue on the upper
edge of one of the brackets, t it upside down in the stern lower
deck 44, as shown in the photo.
Take the assembly of frame 27 made in Stage 9. Apply glue
to the edge of the two brackets 34 at the two notches indicated in
the photo with arrows.
Do the same with the second bracket 34. Check that both
brackets form right angles with the stern lower deck 44 and that
the joints correspond to those shown in the photo.
Join the assembly of the stern lower deck 44 and the two
brackets 34 with the group of frame 27, following the movement
indicated by the arrows in the photo.
A Two brackets (34)
B Stern upper deck (42)
C Two central struts (43)
D Stern lower deck (44)
E Two rear struts (45)
Parts may vary from
those shown.
Stage 15: Stern assembly
pieces and painting the
launch
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90°
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10
10 Remove the rst of the two rear struts 45 from the die.
Smooth the edges with ne-grained sandpaper and apply glue
along the edges of the notches indicated by the arrows.
7
7 Do the same with the second central strut 43. Remove it
from the die, apply glue to the top edge and mount it on the
stern lower deck 44. Make sure that both struts are perpendicular
to the stern lower deck.
9 e end result should look like the assembly in the two
photos above.
8Take the stern upper deck 42 from the die. Spread glue on
the upper edges of the two central struts 43 and on the side ends
of the stern upper deck 42. Fit the pieces together, following the
movement indicated by the arrows in the photo.
6Take the rst central strut 43 from the die. Apply glue lightly
to the bottom edge of the piece and t it into the stern lower deck
44, as shown in the photo.
5 e result should match the assembly shown in the two
photos above. Check that all the joints t together perfectly.
90°
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12 e correct result is shown in the photo: the rear strut 45
connects the two decks (42 and 44) with bracket 30 located to
the outside on the right.
12
Wait until the paint has dried completely, then cover the outer
part of the hull with masking tape, as shown in the photo.
15
11
11 Join the rear strut 45 to the rib frame group 27, which you
assembled previously. Make sure that it ts with the two stern
decks (lower 44 and upper 42) and with the bracket 30 at the
points indicated by the three arrows.
14
14 If you have opted for the decorative nish, take the launch as
you left it at the end of Stage 13. Use a paintbrush or airbrush to
colour the outer hull ivory white.
13
13 Repeat with the second strut 45. Remove it from the die, sand
it and place it on the opposite side of the frame 27 assembly. e
end result should match what you see in the two photos.
16
With a paintbrush or airbrush, colour the entire inner surface
of the launch burgundy. When the paint is dry, remove the
masking tape that you used to protect the outer hull of the launch.
PAINTING THE LAUNCH
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A Two supporting pieces (46)
B Stern deck extension (47)
C Two bracing pieces (48)
D Two half-frames (49)
E Sapele strips x 20
F Bamboo strips 2 x 5 x 300mm x 22
G Pins x 50
Parts may vary from those shown.
Stage 16: Parts of the stern,
oars and bucket
AA
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3 Repeat the operation with the second support 46, checking
that the upper edges match.
3
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2 Make sure that the top edge of part 46 ts ush with the top
of the part of the stern.
1
1 Take the partially assembled hull from the last phase of the
assembly. With a craft knife, remove one of the two supporting
pieces 46 from the die and glue it to the stern section of the false
keel 23, as shown in the photo.
4
4 Remove the left half-frame 49 from the die. Smooth the edges
with ne-grained sandpaper and apply a little glue on the inner
edge, as shown by the dotted line.
YOU WILL NEED
O PVA wood glue
O Craft knife
O Fine-grained sandpaper
O Fine paintbrush
O Ivory modelling paint
O Brown (wood) modelling
paint
O Black modelling paint
O Fine metal le
O Metal glue
E
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8 Apply glue along the entire upper edge of the four elements
you assembled (the two support elements 46 and the two half-
frames 49). Follow the dotted white lines.
8
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5 Glue the half-frame, inserting it into the slot of support 46
which you assembled previously.
6 Make sure that the half-frame forms a right angle with the
section of the keel 23, as shown in the photo.
10
10 Check that the stern deck extension 47 forms a right
angle with the two half-frames underneath, and that all
the joints t properly.
7
7 Repeat the operation with the right half-frame 49, making
sure that it mirrors the one on the left, and is at a right angle to
the false keel.
9 Remove the stern deck extension 47 from the die and t it
horizontally, as shown in the photo.
90°
90°
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12 Apply a layer of glue along the rear edge of the stern deck
extension 47, shown by the white dotted line.
12
15 Cut the rst bracing piece 48 from the die. Apply glue on
the inner edge and on one face of the piece, as indicated by the
dotted lines.
15
11
11 Take the stern assembly that you assembled at the end of Stage
15 and apply glue to the lower slot, indicated by the dotted line.
14
14 Check that the stern assembly and the stern deck extension 47
form a right angle.
13
13 Place the stern assembly so that frame 27 ts section 23 of
the false keel, as shown in the photo.
16
16 Glue bracing piece 48 on the front part of rib frame 27, taking
care that the upper edge of the piece touches the stern extension
47.
90°
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20 If you have opted for the decorative nish, paint the blades of
the oars (B-6) ivory, and the remaining parts in wood colour, with
a ne paintbrush.
20
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17 Check that the outer edge of reinforcing piece 48 is
aligned with the rounded prole of rib frame 27a which
completes rib frame 27.
17 18
18 Repeat the operation with the other reinforcing piece 48 and
glue it on the opposite side of the lower part of rib frame 27.
22
22 Glue the handle (B-8) to the bucket (B-7), in the position
shown, with metal glue. Using a ne paintbrush, paint the bucket
wood colour, the handle ivory and the two rings black.
19
19 Take the eight metal oars (B-6), the bucket (B-7) and the
bucket handle (B-8), which you received with Stage 13. Smooth
the surfaces of the pieces with a ne metal le.
21 Allow the paint to dry, then tie the eight oars together using
the thread (diameter 0.15mm) that came with Stage 13.
Ivory Wood
Ivory
Wood Black
THE OARS AND BUCKET FOR THE LAUNCH
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A Bamboo strips 2 x 5 x 300mm x 22
B Sapele strips 1.5 x 5 x 300mm x 20
C Pins x 50
Parts may vary from those shown.
Stage 17: Pins,
bamboo and sapele
strips for the hull
Take the bamboo strip and check that it touches the bow
formers across their entire thickness, as shown in the photo.
4 Continue the work of bevelling all the frames of the hull. To
achieve a perfect covering, it is essential that the prole of the rib
frames follow the curvature of the hull.
34
With a le, bevel the edges of the bow formers and the rst
rib frames, creating on both sides of the hull ‘mitre angles’ (see
inset photo).
1
1 Take the hull. Shape a bamboo strip with plank-bending
pliers (or by soaking it in hot water), and wrap it around the bow
formers. Find the areas that need to be bevelled so that the strip
rests on the thickness of the wood, not just the edge.
2
YOU WILL NEED
O PVA wood glue
O File
O Fine-grained
sandpaper
O Pin pusher
O Pliers
O Sanding block
O Cutters
O Plank-bending pliers
B
A
C
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5 With a le, shape the two bracing pieces 24 (one on each
side) that you used to join together the false keel sections 17
and 23.
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6 Now turn the hull over and apply a thin layer of glue on the
edges of the stern brackets 28, 29 and 30 at the points shown
in the photo.
910
10 Continue covering the stern brackets. Cut four strips in half
and glue them to the right and left of the sternpost. In this case,
it is not necessary to x them with pins.
9 When the glue is dry, carefully pull out all the pins you
used to x the strips with pliers.
8 Repeating the same procedure, continue to cover the stern
brackets by adding ve more strips, as shown in the photo.
e nal one should touch the sternpost.
8
7
7 Glue a bamboo strip to the stern brackets and x it with a pin-
pusher tool and pins. Make sure that this, and subsequent strips,
are long enough to extend beyond the outer brackets. Do not drive
the pins in completely, as later you will remove them with pliers.
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