WattAge Extra 330l EP Instructions For Final Assembly

Brand: WattAge

Model: Extra 330l EP

Category: Toys & accessories

Type: Instructions For Final Assembly

The Wattage Extra 330L EP ARF is distributed exclusively by Global Hobby Distributors

18480 Bandilier Circle, Fountain Valley, CA 92728

Wattage guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship, at the date of purchase. This

does not cover any component parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Wattage's liability

exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.

In that Wattage has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be

assumed for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using

the final user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgeable help

with assembly and during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area

whose membership includes qualified instructors. We also recommend that you contact the AMA at the address below.

They will be able to help you locate a flying field in your area.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie IN 47302-9252

(800) 435-9262

www.modelaircraft.org

INSTRUCTIONS FOR FINAL ASSEMBLY

TABLE OF CONTENTS

SAFETY WARNING

This R/C airplane is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only in open

areas and preferably at a dedicated R/C flying site. We suggest having a qualified instructor carefully inspect your

airplane before its first flight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this airplane, your radio

control system and any other components purchased separately.

Safety Warning...............................................................2

Introduction ....................................................................3

Our Recommendations...................................................4

Additional Items Required.............................................4

Tools and Supplies Required .........................................5

Kit Contents....................................................................5

Replacement Parts..........................................................6

A Note About Covering .................................................7

Motor Break-In...............................................................7

Breaking In the Motor .............................................7

Wing Mounting ..............................................................8

Mounting the Wing ..................................................8

Horizontal Stabilizer ......................................................8

Aligning the Horizontal Stabilizer ..........................8

Mounting the Horizontal Stabilizer.........................9

Vertical Stabilizer.........................................................10

Aligning the Vertical Stabilizer .............................10

Control Surface Hinging..............................................10

Hinging the Ailerons..............................................10

Hinging the Elevator..............................................11

Installing the Tail Wheel Wire...............................12

Hinging the Rudder................................................12

Installing the Tail Wheel........................................12

Main Landing Gear ......................................................13

Installing the Landing Gear Wire ..........................13

Installing the Wheels .............................................13

Servo Installation .........................................................14

Installing the Servos ..............................................14

Elevator Pushrod ..........................................................15

Installing the Elevator Pushrod & Control Horn .15

Installing the Servo Horn.......................................15

Adjusting the Elevator Pushrod.............................16

Rudder Pushrod............................................................16

Installing the Rudder Pushrod & Control Horn ....16

Installing the Servo Horn.......................................17

Adjusting the Rudder Pushrod ..............................18

Aileron Linkage ...........................................................18

Adjusting the Control Horns .................................18

Installing the Aileron Linkage...............................18

Adjusting the Aileron Linkage ..............................19

Cowling ........................................................................19

Cutting the Air-Intake Holes .................................19

Cutting the Air-Exit Hole ......................................20

Installing the Propeller and Spinner Assembly.....20

Final Assembly.............................................................20

Installing the Electronic Speed Control ................20

Installing the Flight Battery...................................21

Installing the Receiver ...........................................21

Applying the Decals ..............................................21

Balancing......................................................................22

Balancing the Extra 330L EP ................................22

Lateral Balancing...................................................22

Control Throws ............................................................22

Preflight Check.............................................................23

Safety............................................................................23

Flying the Extra 330L EP ............................................24

Glossary of Terms ........................................................24

Motor Maintenance ......................................................25

Product Evaluation Sheet.............................................27

INTRODUCTION

Thank you for choosing the Wattage Extra 330L EP ARF and welcome to the exciting world of electric-powered

aerobatic R/C airplanes! Whether you have built and flown other electric R/C airplanes in the past, or if this is your first, you

will appreciate the high quality, ease of assembly and excellent flight characteristics of the Extra 330L EP.

The Extra 330L EP is an electric-powered, four channel semi-scale aerobatic airplane utilizing balsa and light-ply

construction materials. The built-up balsa and light-ply wing has been designed with a semi-symmetrical airfoil that stays

very stable throughout the entire flight envelope, yet makes inverted flight and aerobatics smooth and easy. The fuselage

is built up using balsa and light-ply and the tail surfaces are built up using lightweight balsa. This adds up to an airplane

that is light, very aerobatic and exciting to fly.

When you open the box, you will notice that you won't have much left to do or to purchase to finish your new

airplane. Included is a prewired 480 size motor and a dual-ball bearing gear box already preinstalled under the molded

cowling. The Extra 330L EP comes with a complete hardware package that includes wire pushrods, control horns,

wheels, molded wheel pants, propeller and other miscellaneous hardware. The airframe is completely built-up and cov-

ered by master craftsmen using real iron-on covering material. They take their time to ensure that every part is straight

and properly glued.

We hope you enjoy your new Wattage Extra 330L EP ARF as much as we have enjoyed designing and building it for

you. If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to contact us. We have also included a product survey in the

back of this instruction manual. Please take the time to fill it out and send it to us. We always enjoy hearing any comments

or suggestions you may have.

This instruction manual is designed to guide you through the entire final assembly process of your new Wattage

Extra 330L EP ARF in the least amount of time possible. Along the way you'll learn how to properly assemble

your new airplane and also learn tips that will help you in the future. We have listed some of our recommendations

below. Please read through them before going any further.

✔ Please read through each step before starting as-

sembly. You should find the layout very complete and

simple. Our goal is to guide you through assembly

without any of the headaches and hassles you might

expect.

✔ There are check boxes next to each step. After

you complete a step, check off the box. This will help

prevent you from losing your place.

✔ Cover your work table with brown paper or a soft

cloth, both to protect the table and to protect the indi-

vidual parts.

✔ Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to put

the small parts in after you open the accessory bags.

✔ We have included a glossary of terms beginning

on page # 24. Check it out if you come across a term

that is unfamiliar to you.

✔ We're all excited to get a new airplane in the air,

but take your time. This will ensure you build a straight,

strong and great flying airplane.

✔ If you come across this symbol

☛

, it means that

this is an important point or an assembly hint.

If you should find a part missing or damaged, or have any questions about assembly, please

Wattage Customer Care

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley CA 92728

Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236 E-mail: service@globalhobby.net

Wattage sells a complete line of replacement parts for your Extra 330L EP. If you should ever require things like

wing sets, cowlings or wheel pants, please contact us using the information above. We'll be happy to help you out.

For your convenience we have a complete replacement parts list on page # 6.

This section describes the items you will need to purchase for your new Extra 330L EP. These suggestions are not set in

stone, but they should provide you with a good starting point.

OUR RECOMMENDATIONS

Here's What We Used to Finish Our Extra 330L EP:

P/N 759118 Hitec 555 Micro Receiver

Hitec Dual Conversion FM RX Crystal

P/N 444045 Cirrus CS-09 Micro Servos (3)

P/N 128486 Wattage IC-30A Micro ESC

7 Cell CP1300SCR NiCD Flight Battery

P/N 130108 Wattage PF-12 AC/DC Peak Detection Charger

P/N 625085 Dean's Ultra-Plug Battery Connector

P/N 869020 Dubro Double-Sided Tape

What Servos Do I Use?

The servos you use should be the lightest available, yet still have an adequate amount of torque. We suggest using servos

that weigh no more than 0.34 ounces and have a torque rating of no less than 11.0 ounces per square inch.

What Receiver Do I Use?

The receiver should be as light as possible, preferably 1/2oz. or less. Most four channel micro receivers would be a good

choice. If you plan on using the Hitec 555 Micro receiver, we suggest removing the case to reduce the receiver's weight.

If you do remove the case from your receiver we strongly suggest wrapping the receiver with heat-shrink material to

protect the internal components.

What Electronic Speed Control Do I Use?

The ESC you choose should be capable of handling no less than 30 amps continuous current. Again, lighter is better.

Your ESC should weigh no more than 1 ounce including the wiring and switch.

What Flight Battery Do I Use?

Through much testing with this power system and airframe combination, we recommend using a Sanyo 7cell CP1300SCR

flight pack. The CP1300SCR pack is ideal because it will provide superior runtime without any significant weight

penalty. We do not suggest using NiMH battery packs. At this time they cannot handle the current draw of this power

system.

IMPORTANT

When choosing accessories for your Extra 330L EP, such as servos, ESC, and receiver, it's very important to take

the weight of these items into consideration. Remember, the lighter the overall weight of the finished airplane, the

better the airplane will fly.

IMPORTANT The part number listed for the Cirrus servos is compatible with all radio control systems. This servo uses a universal connector. The

part number listed for the Hitec 555 Micro receiver is compatible with Hitec radio control systems. This receiver is also available for Futaba, JR and

Airtronics radio control systems. The Wattage IC-30A Micro ESC is compatible with Futaba, JR, Hitec, Airtronics-Z and others.

When you purchase the Hitec 555 Micro receiver, you must also purchase a Hitec brand crystal compatible with the receiver. The crystal

must also be on the same frequency as your transmitter. Note that the Hitec 555 Micro receiver uses a dual conversion FM

Hitec crystal.

Note: To minimize current loss, we suggest

soldering the motor wires directly to the ESC.

We also suggest replacing the stock Tamiya

connector that is likely preinstalled on your ESC

and flight battery with a more efficient Dean's

Ultra-Plug battery connector.

❑ {2} 1mm x 420mm Pushrod Wires

❑ {2} 1mm x 110mm Pushrod Wires

❑ {2} Control Horns

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy # 887560

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A # 887500

❑ Kwik Bond Thick C/A # 887510

❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Excel Modeling Knife # 692801

❑ Needle Nose Pliers

❑ Wire Cutters

❑ Magnum Z-Bend Pliers # 237473

❑ Electric or Hand Drill

❑ 1/16" Drill Bit

❑ 5/64" Drill Bit

❑ Straight Edge Ruler

❑ Builder's Triangle

❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

❑ Pen or Pencil

❑ Waxed Paper

❑ Scissors

❑ Masking Tape

❑ Rubbing Alcohol

❑ Paper Towels

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks # 864204

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups # 864205

❑ Trinity Break-In Drops # 840365

❑ Performance Plus Motor Spray # 340186

We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for easier identification during assembly. Each photo below

represents the parts that are required in a main section of the assembly process. Before you begin assembly, group the

parts like we show. This will ensure that you have all of the parts before you begin assembly and it will also help you

become familiar with each part. The corresponding part number is listed first, then the quantity of that particular part,

along with a short description of the part. As you proceed through assembly, you will notice the same part number

listed next to a particular part necessary for that step. If you have any questions as to what that part might be, refer back

to this section.

KIT CONTENTS

AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES PUSHROD ASSEMBLIES

❑ {1} Fuselage w/Motor, Cowling & Canopy Deck

❑ {1} Prejoined Wing w/Ailerons & Hinges

❑ {1} Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator & Hinges

❑ {1} Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder & Hinges

Because Z-Bends are used to connect the pushrods at both the servo ends and the control surface ends, we highly

suggest purchasing a Z-Bend tool to make these bends. You can make Z-Bends using needle nose pliers; however, it

is difficult, especially in the tight spaces of the fuselage.

LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLIES MISCELLANEOUS ASSEMBLIES

❑ {1} Prebent Main Gear Wire

❑ {1} Prebent Tail Wheel Wire

❑ {2} 45mm Diameter Main Gear Wheels

❑ {1} 15mm Diameter Tail Wheel

❑ {2} Molded Wheel Pants

❑ {2} 1mm Nylon Wheel Retainers

❑ {4} 3mm Nylon Wheel Retainers

❑ {2} Prebent Aluminum Wheel Pant Mounts

❑ {4} 2mm x 6mm Wood Screws

❑ {1} Plywood Landing Gear Cover

❑ {1} Nylon Propeller

❑ {1} Plastic Spinner Cone

❑ {1} Plastic Spinner Backplate

❑ {1} Nylon Backplate Spacer Set

❑ {2} 3mm x 10mm Wood Screws

❑ {1} 3mm x 15mm Machine Screw

❑ {3} 30mm Velcro

Strips

❑ {1} Decal Set - not shown

❑ {1} 2:1 Pinion Gear

❑ {1} 2.3:1 Pinion Gear

The Extra 330L includes three different pinion gears - all serving different purposes. The pinion gear that has been

preinstalled in the gear box gives a 1:7 gear ratio. Use this gear ratio for most standard sport flying. This is the largest

of the three pinion gears.

The kit also includes two separate pinion gears. The mid-sized pinion gear will give a 2:1 gear ratio and the smallest

pinion gear will give a 2.3:1 gear ratio. Use these two pinion gears if you decide to use a bigger propeller and/or

decide to use the Wattage 10 cell 800Mah flight battery.

☛

Wattage carries a complete line of replacement parts for your Extra 330L EP. Listed below are the replacement parts

that are available along with their respective part numbers for easy ordering convenience. These replacement parts can

be ordered through your local dealer or directly from Wattage by calling 1-714-964-0329.

131337 - 480 Size Motor w/Wires & Capacitors

131348 - Gear Box Assembly w/Propeller Adapter

and 1:7, 2:1 and 2.3:1 Gear Ratios

145185 - Cowling - Painted

145186 - Wheel Pants - Painted w/Mounting

Hardware

145187 - Spinner Set

145188 - Landing Gear Wire

145190 - Canopy

REPLACEMENT PARTS

145191 - Fuselage Set w/Canopy Deck & Canopy

145192 - Wing Set - Complete

145193 - Stabilizer Set - Complete

145194 - Pushrod Set - Complete w/Control Horns

145195 - Screw Set - Complete w/Wheel Pant Mounts

145196 - Decal Set

131342 - 8 x 6.5 Nylon Propeller

128525 - 10 Cell 800Mah Flight Battery

The covering material used on the Extra 330L EP is real iron-on heat shrink covering material, not cheap "shelf paper."

Because of this, it is possible with heat and humidity changes that the covering on your airplane may wrinkle or sag. This

trait is inherent in all types of heat shrink material. To remove any wrinkles that might be visible you will need to purchase,

or borrow from a fellow modeler, a heat iron. If you need to purchase one, the Global Heat Sealing Iron # 360900 is

recommended.

Follow these simple steps to remove the wrinkles:

❑ 1) Plug in and turn on the sealing iron to the medium-high temperature setting. Allow the iron to heat up for

approximately 5 - 7 minutes.

❑ 2) After the iron has reached temperature, lightly apply the iron to the wrinkled section of the covering. Move the

iron slowly over the wrinkled section until the covering tightens and the wrinkles disappear. You will notice that the color

of the covering will darken when it is heated. When the covering cools back down, it will return to its normal color.

☛

If the color layer smears from any of the seams the temperature of the iron is too hot. Turn the temperature dial down

and wait about 5 minutes for the iron to adjust to the lower temperature. You can remove any excess color streaks using

a paper towel soaked with a small quantity of Acetone.

MOTOR BREAK-IN

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

BREAKING IN THE MOTOR

❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Needle Nose Pliers

❑ Paper Towels

❑ Trinity Break-In Drops

❑ Performance Plus Motor Spray

❑ 1) Using a # 0 phillips screwdriver, remove the four

wood screws that hold the cowling onto the fuselage.

Remove the cowling and set it and the screws aside.

❑ 2) Using a # 0 phillips screwdriver, loosen the four

wood screws that hold the motor clamp to the plywood

motor mount beams. See photo # 1 below.

❑ 3) Once the motor clamp begins to loosen, carefully

pull the motor out of the clamp.

☛

It isn't necessary to completely remove the wood

screws to remove the motor.

Photo # 1

❑ 4) Set the motor assembly, flight battery, charger,

radio system and ESC onto your workbench.

❑ 5) Charge the flight battery using your peak charger,

following the instructions that were provided with the

charger. Also, make sure that the batteries in your trans-

mitter are fully charged.

❑ 6) Set the motor assembly between the handles of a

pair of needle nose pliers. Secure the motor to the handles

using three rubber bands (not included). This will keep

the motor secure enough for the break-in procedure. See

photo # 2 below.

Photo # 2

❑ 7) Plug the three servo leads and the ESC lead into

their proper slots in the receiver. Plug the red motor lead

into the red motor lead on the ESC and plug the black

motor lead into the black motor lead on the ESC.

☛

The leads that are soldered onto the motor are "bul-

let" connectors. If your ESC does not use bullet

connectors, you will need to change the connectors on

the motor at this time.

❑ 8) Turn on the transmitter and plug the flight battery

into the ESC. If the motor turns on immediately, use the

throttle stick to turn off the motor.

A NOTE ABOUT COVERING

❑ 9) With the motor turned off, test the operation of

the three servos. Each servo should move when you move

the control sticks.

❑ 10) Carefully spray a couple of light sprays of Per-

formance Plus Motor Spray inside the motor openings and

apply a small drop of Trinity Break-In Drops onto each of

the two motor bushings and onto the gear box bearings.

See photo # 3 below.

Photo # 3

❑ 11) Using a couple of paper towels, wipe off the

excess motor spray.

❑ 12) Slowly turn on the motor using the transmitter

throttle control stick. Position the stick to about 1/3 throttle

and let the motor run. While the motor is running, apply

a light spray of motor spray inside the motor openings

once every minute, followed by a small drop of Break-In

Drops on each of the motor bushings and gear box bear-

ings. Continue to do this until the battery is fully

discharged (i.e., the motor stops).

❑ 13) After the battery has discharged and the motor

has stopped, spray motor spray through the motor open-

ings until the fluid runs clear. Apply a couple of drops of

Break-In Drops to the motor bushings and gear box bear-

ings and wipe away all of the excess using paper towels.

❑ 14) Reinstall the motor assembly and the cowling.

Reverse the removal steps for installation.

PARTS REQUIRED

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

WING MOUNTING

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ Straight Edge Ruler

MOUNTING THE WING

❑ 1) Using a modeling knife, cut away the covering

material from over the predrilled wing hold down hole in

the bottom of the belly pan. The hole is located 1/2" in

front of the trailing edge and is 7/16" in diameter. See

photo # 4 below.

Photo # 4

❑ 2) Using a modeling knife, cut away the covering

material from over the 1/8" diameter hole located on the

top of the wing, directly above the hole in the belly pan.

❑ 3) Place the wing into the wing saddle, making sure

that the dowel in the leading edge of the wing engages the

predrilled hole in the forward bulkhead.

❑ 4) Line up the trailing edge of the wing with the

fuselage and install the wing using the 3mm x 15mm

machine screw. Tighten the machine screw firmly using

a # 1 phillips screwdriver.

☛

The plywood wing hold down block has threads

tapped into it for the bolt to thread into.

PARTS REQUIRED

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy

❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ Straight Edge Ruler

❑ Builder's Triangle

❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

❑ Pen or Pencil

❑ Masking Tape

❑ Rubbing Alcohol

❑ Paper Towels

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

❑ {1} Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator & Hinges

❑ 1) Remove the elevator and hinges from the hori-

zontal stabilizer and set them aside for now. Remove the

wing from the fuselage and set it aside, also.

❑ 2) Using a modeling knife, carefully remove the

covering from over the horizontal stabilizer mounting

ALIGNING THE

HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

❑ {1} Fuselage w/Motor, Cowling & Canopy Deck

❑ {1} Prejoined Wing w/Ailerons & Hinges

❑ {1} 3mm x 15mm Machine Screw

❑ 3) Using a ruler and a pen, locate the centerline

of the horizontal stabilizer, at the trailing edge, and draw

a mark. Using a builder's triangle, extend this mark

from front to back across the top of the stabilizer. See

photo # 6 below.

Photo # 5

Photo # 6

❑ 4) Reinstall the wing onto the fuselage and slide

the stabilizer into the stabilizer mounting slot. Push the

stabilizer forward until the leading edge of the stabilizer

is pushed firmly against the front of the slot.

❑ 5) Align the centerline mark on the trailing edge of

the stabilizer with the center of the back edge of the fuse-

lage. When that is aligned, hold the trailing edge of the

stabilizer in that position using a couple of pieces of mask-

ing tape.

❑ 6) With the stabilizer in place, look carefully from

the front of the fuselage at both the wing and the stabi-

lizer. When aligned properly, the stabilizer should be level

with the wing. If it is not level, remove the stabilizer and

use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block to sand down

the higher stabilizer mounting side until the correct align-

ment is achieved. See figure # 1 below.

slot in the back of the fuselage. The slot is 3" long and

1/8" tall, and is located 1-3/4" up from the bottom of the

fuselage. See photo # 5 below.

Figure # 1

❑ 7) Now check to make sure that the tips of the sta-

bilizer are equal distances from the tips of the wing. Use

a ruler and measure from one wing tip to the

stabilizer tip on the same side. Do this for both sides.

When the stabilizer is aligned properly, both of these mea-

surements should be the same. See figure # 2 below.

Figure # 2

❑ 8) When you are satisfied with the alignment, hold

the stabilizer firmly in place using a couple of pieces of

masking tape and check the measurements once more.

❑ 9) With the stabilizer held firmly in place, use a pen

to draw lines onto the top and bottom of the stabilizer

where it and the fuselage sides meet. Do this on both the

right and left sides. See photo # 7 below.

MOUNTING THE

HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

Photo # 7

❑ 10) Remove the horizontal stabilizer. Mix a gener-

ous amount of Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin

layer to the mounting area on both the top and the bottom

of the stabilizer and to the top and bottom of the stabilizer

mounting sides in the fuselage.

❑ 11) Slide the stabilizer back into place and realign

it with the lines you drew. Before the epoxy sets up, double

check all of your measurements once more.

❑ 12) When you are satisfied with the alignment, hold

the stabilizer in place using several pieces of masking

tape and remove any excess epoxy before it sets up, using

a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to

fully cure before proceeding.

A=A-1

B=B-1

PARTS REQUIRED

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

VERTICAL STABILIZER

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy

❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ Straight Edge Ruler

❑ Builder's Triangle

❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

❑ Pen or Pencil

❑ Masking Tape

❑ Rubbing Alcohol

❑ Paper Towels

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

❑ {1} Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder & Hinges

ALIGNING THE

VERTICAL STABILIZER

❑ 1) Remove the rudder and hinges from the vertical

stabilizer and set them aside for now.

❑ 2) Using a modeling knife, carefully remove the

covering from over the vertical stabilizer mounting slot

in the top of the fuselage. The slot is 1-1/4" long and

1/8" wide, and is located 2-1/2" in front of the back edge

of the fuselage.

❑ 3) Slide the vertical stabilizer into the mounting

slot in the fuselage. Push the stabilizer down firmly and

adjust it until the trailing edge is even with the back edge

of the fuselage.

❑ 4) While holding the vertical stabilizer firmly in

place, use a pen to outline the base of the stabilizer onto

the top of the fuselage.

❑ 5) Remove the stabilizer. Using a modeling knife,

carefully cut away and remove the covering from inside

the outline you drew. See photo # 8 below.

Photo # 8

❑ 6) Slide the vertical stabilizer back into place and

realign it. Using a builder's triangle, check to ensure

that the vertical stabilizer is aligned 90º to the horizon-

tal stabilizer. See figure # 3 below.

Figure # 3

❑ 7) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 5 Minute

Epoxy. Apply a thin layer to the mounting slot in the top

of the fuselage and to the sides and bottom of the vertical

stabilizer mounting area.

❑ 8) Slide the stabilizer back into place and realign it,

double checking all of your measurements. Hold the sta-

bilizer in place using several pieces of masking tape and

remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rub-

bing alcohol before the epoxy sets up. Allow the epoxy

to fully cure before proceeding.

ALIGNING THE

VERTICAL STABILIZER

PARTS REQUIRED

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

CONTROL SURFACE HINGING

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A

❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ Electric or Hand Drill

❑ 1/16" Drill Bit

❑ Straight Edge Ruler

❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

❑ Pen or Pencil

❑ Waxed Paper

❑ Rubbing Alcohol

❑ Paper Towels

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

❑ {1} Prebent Tail Wheel Wire

❑ {1} 15mm Tail Wheel

❑ {2} 1mm Nylon Tail Wheel Retainers

HINGING THE AILERONS

❑ 1) Locate the three precut hinge slots in the trailing

edge of each half of the wing and the leading edge of each

of the two ailerons.

❑ 2) Test fit three C/A hinges into the hinge slots in

one aileron. Each hinge should be inserted far enough

into the slots so that the centerlines of the hinges are flush

with the leading edge of the aileron. If the hinges cannot

be inserted deeply enough, use a modeling knife and care-

fully cut the hinge slots deeper. See photo # 9 below.

Photo # 9

☛

Each of the hinges has a slot cut in the middle of it.

When installing the hinges, make sure that each of the

slots is perpendicular to the leading edge of the aileron.

These slots will allow the C/A to wick deeply into the

aileron giving the hinges more holding power.

❑ 3) With each of the hinges centered in the hinge

slots, apply 3-4 drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the joint

where the hinges and the aileron meets. Allow a few sec-

onds between drops for the C/A to wick into the hinges,

then turn the aileron over and repeat this procedure on the

other side of each hinge. Allow the C/A to dry for about

10 minutes before proceeding.

❑ 4) Using a modeling knife, cut out a 1-3/4" x 2"

piece of waxed paper. Working with the same wing half

that the aileron came from, slide the waxed paper between

the aileron torque rod and the trailing edge of the wing.

See photo # 10 below.

Photo # 10

☛

The waxed paper will prevent epoxy from getting

behind the torque rod and gluing it to the trailing edge

of the wing.

❑ 5) Mix a small quantity of Kwik Bond 5 Minute

Epoxy. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the end of the aile-

ron torque rod and pack epoxy into the predrilled hole

and the precut groove in the leading edge of the aileron.

❑ 6) Slide the aileron and its hinges into the hinge slots

in the trailing edge of the wing, making sure that the torque

rod is firmly seated in the leading edge of the aileron.

Adjust the aileron so that the tip of the aileron is even

with the tip of the wing.

❑ 7) While holding the aileron tight against the wing,

rotate the aileron down about 45º. Apply 3-4 drops of

Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the exposed area of each hinge.

Turn the wing over and repeat for the other side of the

hinges. Allow the C/A and epoxy to fully cure. Once

cured, the aileron may be stiff and difficult to move. This

is normal. Gently pivot the aileron up and down about

five to ten times to free it up.

❑ 8) Repeat steps # 2 - # 7 to hinge the second aileron

to the other half of the wing.

HINGING THE ELEVATOR

❑ 9) Locate the four precut hinge slots in the trailing

edge of the horizontal stabilizer and the leading edge of

the elevator.

☛

Look carefully at the elevator and you will notice a

precut slot. This slot is in the bottom of the elevator, so

make sure that you hinge the elevator with the slot toward

the bottom of the horizontal stabilizer.

❑ 10) Test fit the C/A hinges into the hinge slots in

the elevator. Each hinge should be inserted far enough

into the slots so that the centerlines of the hinges are flush

with the leading edge of the elevator. If the hinges cannot

be inserted deeply enough, use a modeling knife to care-

fully cut the hinge slots deeper.

☛

Each of the hinges has a slot cut in the middle of it.

When installing the hinges, make sure that each of the

slots is perpendicular to the leading edge of the elevator.

These slots allow the C/A to wick deeply into the elevator

giving the hinges more holding power.

❑ 11) With each of the hinges centered, apply 3-4

drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the joint where the hinges

and the elevator meet. Allow a few seconds between drops

for the C/A to wick into the hinges, then turn the elevator

over and repeat this procedure on the other side. Let the

C/A dry for about 10 minutes before proceeding.

❑ 12) Slide the elevator and its hinges into the precut

hinge slots in the trailing edge of the stabilizer. Adjust

the elevator so that the tips of the elevator are even with

the tips of the stabilizer.

❑ 14) Using a ruler and a pen, measure up 9/16" from

the bottom of the rudder (at the leading edge) and draw

a mark.

❑ 15) Using a drill with a 1/16" drill bit, carefully drill

a shallow hole into the leading edge of the rudder and the

mark you drew. Make sure you drill the hole perpendicu-

lar to the leading edge. See photo # 11 below.

Photo # 11

❑ 16) Using a modeling knife, carefully cut a shallow

groove in the leading edge from the base of the hole down

to the bottom of the rudder. See figure # 4 below.

Figure # 4

❑ 17) Test fit the tail wheel wire into the hole and

groove. When properly aligned, the wire should rest within

the groove and the outer surface of the wire should be flush

with the leading edge of the rudder. See photo # 12 below.

Photo # 12

INSTALLING THE TAIL WHEEL WIRE

❑ 13) While holding the elevator tight against the sta-

bilizer, rotate the elevator down about 45º. Apply 3-4

drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the exposed area of each

hinge. Turn the fuselage over and repeat for the other

side of the hinges. Allow the C/A to dry for about 10

minutes. Once the C/A dries, the elevator may be stiff

and difficult to move. This is normal. Gently pivot it up

and down about five to ten times to free it up.

❑ 18) When satisfied with the fit, remove the tail wheel

wire. Using 220 grit sandpaper, carefully roughen only

the gluing surface of the wire.

❑ 19) Mix a small quantity of Kwik Bond 5 Minute

Epoxy. Pack epoxy into the hole and the groove in the

leading edge of the rudder, then push the tail wheel wire

firmly into place. Remove any excess epoxy using a

paper towel and rubbing alcohol and allow the epoxy to

fully cure before proceeding.

HINGING THE RUDDER

❑ 20) Locate the two precut hinge slots in the trailing

edge of the vertical stabilizer and the leading edge of the

rudder.

❑ 21) Test fit the two C/A hinges into the hinge slots

in the rudder. Each hinge should be inserted far enough

into the slots so that the centerlines of the hinges are flush

with the leading edge. If the hinges cannot be inserted

deeply enough, use a modeling knife to carefully cut the

hinge slots deeper.

☛

Each of the hinges has a slot cut in the middle of it.

When installing the hinges, make sure that each of the

slots is perpendicular to the leading edge of the rudder.

These slots allow the C/A to wick deeply into the rudder

giving the hinges more holding power.

❑ 22) With each of the hinges centered, apply 3-4

drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the joint where the hinges

and the rudder meet. Allow a few seconds between drops

for the C/A to wick into the hinges, then turn the rudder

over and repeat this procedure on the other side. Let the

C/A dry for about 10 minutes before proceeding.

❑ 23) Slide the rudder and its hinges into the precut

hinge slots in the trailing edge of the vertical stabilizer.

Adjust the rudder so that the tip of the rudder is even with

the tip of the vertical stabilizer.

❑ 24) While holding the rudder tight against the sta-

bilizer, rotate the rudder to the right about 45º. Apply 3-4

drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the exposed area of each

hinge. Turn the fuselage over and repeat for the other

side of the hinges. Allow the C/A to dry for about 10

minutes. Once the C/A has dried, the rudder may be stiff

and difficult to move. This is normal. Gently pivot it

back and forth about five to ten times to free it up.

INSTALLING THE TAIL WHEEL

❑ 25) Carefully push one 1mm nylon wheel retainer

onto the tail wheel wire as far as it will go.

❑ 26) Slide the 15mm diameter tail wheel up against

the nylon wheel retainer, then slide the second 1mm wheel

retainer up against the tail wheel. See photo # 13 below.

Photo # 13

❑ 27) Center the tail wheel and the nylon retainers.

When satisfied with the alignment, secure the retainers in

place by carefully applying a small drop of Kwik Bond

Thin C/A to the outer edge of each retainer.

PARTS REQUIRED

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

MAIN LANDING GEAR

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy

❑ Kwik Bond Thick C/A

❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ Straight Edge Ruler

❑ Masking Tape

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

❑ {1} Prebent Main Gear Wire

❑ {2} 45mm Diameter Main Gear Wheels

❑ {2} Molded Wheel Pants

❑ {4} 3mm Nylon Wheel Retainers

❑ {2} Prebent Aluminum Wheel Pant Mounts

❑ {4} 2mm x 6mm Wood Screws

❑ {1} Plywood Landing Gear Cover

INSTALLING THE LANDING GEAR WIRE

❑ 1) Using a modeling knife, remove the small amount

of balsa that covers each side of the landing gear slot in

the bottom of the fuselage. See photo # 14 below.

Photo # 14

❑ 2) Carefully slide the prebent main landing gear wire

into the landing gear slot. Push the wire down evenly

until it bottoms out. See photo # 15 below.

☛

There are plywood "stops" preglued into each side of

the slot that the top of the wire is pushed down against.

❑ 3) When satisfied with the fit, remove the landing

gear wire. Mix a small amount of Kwik Bond 5 Minute

Epoxy. Apply a very thin layer of epoxy onto both sides

of the landing gear slot.

❑ 4) Push the landing gear wire back into place and

realign it, making sure it's pushed down as far as it will

go. Allow the epoxy to fully cure before proceeding.

❑ 5) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering

from over the precut notch in each end of the plywood

landing gear cover.

❑ 6) Test fit the landing gear cover into place. The

notches fit around the landing gear wire and the sides of

the cover should be even with the sides of the fuselage.

See photo #16 below.

Photo # 16

❑ 7) When satisfied with the fit, remove the landing

gear cover. Carefully apply a thin layer of Kwik Bond

Thick C/A to the cover's gluing surface.

❑ 8) Set the landing gear cover back into place and

realign it. Hold the cover in place until the C/A cures.

INSTALLING THE WHEELS

Photo # 15

❑ 9) Slide one wheel pant partially onto one of the

landing gear axles followed by one 3mm nylon wheel

retainer.

❑ 10) Carefully slide one 45mm diameter wheel onto

the axle, followed by a second 3mm nylon wheel retainer.

Align the predrilled hole in the outside of the wheel pant

and push it over the end of the axle. See figure # 5 below.

Figure # 5

❑ 11) Secure the wheel pant to the landing gear wire

using one prebent aluminum wheel pant mount and two

2mm x 6mm wood screws. Thread the screws into the

predrilled holes and tighten both of them firmly to hold

the wheel pant in place. See photo # 17 below.

Photo # 17

☛

A small piece of plywood has been preglued to the

inside surface of the wheel pant for the wood screws to

thread into.

❑ 12) Repeat steps # 9 thru # 11 to install the second

wheel and wheel pant assembly.

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

SERVO INSTALLATION

❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ Electric or Hand Drill

❑ 1/16" Drill Bit

INSTALLING THE SERVOS

❑ 1) Using a # 0 phillips screwdriver, remove the two

wood screws that hold the canopy deck in place. Remove

the canopy deck from the fuselage and set it aside.

❑ 2) Locate the three servos you intend to use for the

elevator, rudder and aileron controls. Carefully install the

rubber grommets and brass collets onto each of the servo

mounting lugs. For proper vibration reduction, the brass

collets should be inserted into the rubber grommets with

the flanges facing the bottom of the servo mounting lugs.

See figure # 6 below.

❑ 3) Position two servos into the fuselage servo tray,

making sure that both servo output shafts face the front of

the fuselage. See photo # 18 below.

Figure # 6

Photo # 18

❑ 4) Using a drill with a 1/16" drill bit, drill pilot

holes through the servo tray, one for each of the servo

mounting screws (included with your radio system). Us-

ing a # 0 phillips screwdriver, install and tighten the

mounting screws to hold the servos in place.

☛

Drilling pilot holes through the servo tray will make

it easier to install the mounting screws.

❑ 5) Place the remaining servo into the plywood ai-

leron servo tray, noting the position of the servo output

shaft. It should face the leading edge of the wing. See

photo # 19 below.

Photo # 19

☛

When installing the aileron servo, make sure you

run the servo wire out the precut notch in the side of the

servo tray.

❑ 6) Using a drill with a 1/16" drill bit, drill pilot holes

through the servo tray, one for each of the mounting screws

(included with your radio system). Using a # 0 phillips

screwdriver, install and tighten the mounting screws to

hold the servo in place.

☛

Be careful not to drill through the bottom of the wing!

PARTS REQUIRED

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

ELEVATOR PUSHROD

❑ Kwik Bond Thick C/A

❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ Needle Nose Pliers

❑ Wire Cutters

❑ Magnum Z-Bend Pliers

❑ Straight Edge Ruler

❑ Pen or Pencil

❑ Masking Tape

❑ {1} 1mm x 420mm Pushrod Wire

❑ {1} Control Horn

INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR

PUSHROD AND CONTROL HORN

❑ 1) Using Magnum Z-Bend Pliers, make a Z-bend

in only one end of the 1mm x 420mm pushrod wire. Use

wire cutters to remove any excess wire, leaving about 3/16"

of wire beyond the Z-bend.

❑ 2) Using a ruler and a pen, measure forward 3/4"

from the middle of the Z-bend and draw a mark on the

pushrod wire.

❑ 3) Using a pair of needle nose pliers, carefully bend

a "V" shape in the wire. The middle of the "V" should be

located at the mark you drew. See photo # 20 below.

Photo # 20

☛

When you bend the "V" shape, make sure it points

away from the Z-Bend as shown above.

❑ 4) Insert the Z-Bend into the outermost hole in the

control horn so that the "V" shape points toward the left

side of the control horn. See photo # 21 below.

Photo # 21

❑ 5) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering

from over the elevator pushrod exit hole in the back of

the fuselage. The hole is located on the right side of the

fuselage, 1-3/4" in front of the rudder hinge line and

1-1/16" up from the bottom of the fuselage.

❑ 6) Slide the plain end of the pushrod wire (with

the control horn still attached) into the nylon pushrod

housing.

❑ 7) Apply a bead of Kwik Bond Thick C/A into the

precut control horn mounting slot in the bottom of the

elevator. Slide the pushrod wire forward until the control

horn lines up with the mounting slot. Push the control

horn completely into the slot and hold it in place until the

C/A dries completely. See photo # 22 below.

Photo # 22

INSTALLING THE SERVO HORN

❑ 8) Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped

between the horizontal stabilizer and the elevator, to hold

the elevator centered.

❑ 9) Plug the elevator servo into the receiver. Plug

the ESC into the receiver and the flight battery into the

ESC . Turn on the radio system and center the servo

using the trim lever on the transmitter.

❑ 10) Place a "single arm" servo horn onto the eleva-

tor servo, making sure that the servo horn is centered and

points toward the fuselage side. The arm should have at

least four holes in it.

☛

If the servo arm has more than four holes in it, it may

hit the side of the fuselage when it's installed. If that's the

case, use a modeling knife to cut the arm shorter.

❑ 11) With both the servo horn and the elevator cen-

tered, use a pen and draw a mark on the pushrod wire

where it crosses the third hole out from the center of the

servo horn. See photo # 23 below.

❑ 12) Using Magnum Z-Bend Pliers, make a Z-bend

in the pushrod wire at the mark you drew. Use wire cut-

ters to remove the excess wire.

❑ 13) Connect the servo arm to the Z-bend and attach

the servo horn to the servo output shaft, making sure that

the servo horn is centered. When satisfied with the align-

ment, install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw,

provided with your servo, to secure the servo horn into

place. See photo # 24 below.

Photo # 23

Photo # 24

❑ 14) Remove the masking tape from the elevator and

double check that both the elevator and the elevator servo

are still centered.

☛

To adjust the center-trim of the elevator, use a pair of

pliers to carefully open or close the "V" in the pushrod

wire. Doing this will effectively lengthen or shorten the

pushrod wire.

ADJUSTING THE ELEVATOR PUSHROD

❑ 15) With your radio system plugged in and turned

on, check the direction the elevator control surface moves

and the amount of control deflection. To do this pull back

on the elevator control stick. The elevator should move

up. If it does not, flip the servo reversing switch on your

transmitter to change the direction.

❑ 16) Pull back completely on the elevator control stick.

While holding the control stick completely back, use a ruler

and measure the amount the trailing edge of the elevator

moves up. This measurement should be 3/8" measured at

the widest point of the elevator. See figure # 7 below.

Figure # 7

❑ 17) If the control surface deflection is more or less

than 3/8" it must be changed. If your radio is equipped

with End Point Adjustments (EPA), make those adjust-

ments using the transmitter. (Refer to your radio guide

for further details.) If your radio does not have this fea-

ture, you can still make the adjustments to the pushrod

manually.

❑ 18) If the elevator is moving more than 3/8", move

the Z-bend in one hole toward the center of the servo horn

to decrease the control deflection. If the elevator is mov-

ing less than 3/8", move the Z-bend one hole out from the

center of the servo horn to increase the control deflection.

When adjusted properly, the elevator should move 3/8"

both up and down.

PARTS REQUIRED

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

RUDDER PUSHROD

❑ Kwik Bond Thick C/A

❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ Needle Nose Pliers

❑ Wire Cutters

❑ Magnum Z-Bend Pliers

❑ Straight Edge Ruler

❑ Pen or Pencil

❑ Masking Tape

❑ {1} 1mm x 420mm Pushrod Wire

❑ {1} Control Horn

INSTALLING THE RUDDER

PUSHROD AND CONTROL HORN

❑ 1) Using Magnum Z-Bend Pliers, make a Z-bend

in only one end of the 1mm x 420mm pushrod wire. Use

wire cutters to remove any excess wire, leaving about 3/16"

of wire beyond the Z-bend.

❑ 2) Using a ruler and a pen, measure forward 3/4"

from the middle of the Z-bend and draw a mark on the

pushrod wire.

❑ 3) Using a pair of needle nose pliers, carefully bend

a "V" shape in the wire. The middle of the "V" should be

located at the mark you drew. See photo # 25 below.

Photo # 25

☛

When you bend the "V" shape, make sure it points

away from the Z-bend as shown above.

❑ 4) Insert the Z-Bend into the outermost hole in the

control horn so that the "V" shape points toward the left

side of the control horn (the same as you did with the

elevator control horn).

❑ 5) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering

from over the rudder pushrod exit hole in the back of the

fuselage. The hole is located on the left side of the fuse-

lage, 1-3/4" in front of the rudder hinge line and 1-1/16"

up from the bottom of the fuselage.

❑ 6) Slide the plain end of the pushrod wire (with

the control horn still attached) into the nylon pushrod

housing.

❑ 7) Apply a bead of Kwik Bond Thick C/A into the

precut control horn mounting slot in the rudder. Slide the

pushrod wire forward until the control horn lines up with

the mounting slot. Push the control horn completely into

the slot and hold it in place until the C/A dries completely.

See photo # 26 below.

Photo # 26

INSTALLING THE SERVO HORN

❑ 8) Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped

between the vertical stabilizer and the rudder, to hold the

rudder centered.

❑ 9) Plug the rudder servo into the receiver. Plug the

ESC into the receiver and the flight battery into the ESC .

Turn on the radio system and center the servo using the

trim lever on the transmitter.

❑ 10) Place a "single arm" servo horn onto the rudder

servo, making sure that the servo horn is centered and

points toward the fuselage side. The arm should have at

least four holes in it.

☛

If the servo arm has more than four holes in it, it may

hit the side of the fuselage when it's installed. If that's the

case, use a modeling knife to cut the arm shorter.

❑ 11) With both the servo horn and the rudder cen-

tered, use a pen to draw a mark on the pushrod wire where

it crosses the third hole out from the center of the servo

horn. See photo # 27 below.

Photo # 27

❑ 12) Using Magnum Z-Bend Pliers, make a Z-bend

in the pushrod wire at the mark you drew. Use wire cut-

ters to remove the excess wire.

❑ 13) Connect the servo arm to the Z-bend and attach

the servo horn to the servo output shaft, making sure that

the servo horn is centered. When satisfied with the align-

ment, install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw,

provided with your servo, to secure the servo horn into

place. See photo # 28 below.

Photo # 28

❑ 14) Remove the masking tape from the rudder and

double check that both the rudder and the rudder servo

are still centered.

☛

To adjust the center-trim of the rudder, use a pair of

pliers to carefully open or close the "V" in the pushrod

wire. Doing this will effectively lengthen or shorten the

pushrod wire.

ADJUSTING THE RUDDER PUSHROD

❑ 15) With your radio system plugged in and turned

on, check the direction the rudder control surface moves

and the amount of control deflection. To do this push

right on the rudder control stick. The rudder should move

right. If it does not, flip the servo reversing switch on

your transmitter to change the direction.

❑ 16) Push right completely on the rudder control stick.

While holding the control stick completely right, use a ruler

and measure the amount the trailing edge of the rudder

moves right. This measurement should be 1/2" measured

at the widest point of the rudder. See figure # 8 below.

Figure # 8

❑ 17) If the control surface deflection is more or less

than 1/2" it must be changed. If your radio is equipped

with End Point Adjustments (EPA), make those adjust-

ments using the transmitter. (Refer to your radio guide

for further details.) If your radio does not have this fea-

ture, you can still make the adjustments to the pushrod

manually.

❑ 18) If the rudder is moving more than 1/2", move

the Z-bend in one hole toward the center of the servo horn

to decrease the control deflection. If the rudder is mov-

ing less than 1/2", move the Z-bend out one hole from the

center of the servo horn to increase the control deflection.

When adjusted properly, the rudder should move 1/2" both

right and left.

☛

Double check that both the elevator and the rudder

pushrods move without binding. If there is any binding

present, use a pair of pliers to make very small bends in

the pushrod wires until they move smoothly.

PARTS REQUIRED

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

AILERON LINKAGE

❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Needle Nose Pliers

❑ Wire Cutters

❑ Magnum Z-Bend Pliers

❑ Straight Edge Ruler

❑ Pen or Pencil

❑ Masking Tape

❑ {2} 1mm x 110mm Pushrod Wires

ADJUSTING THE CONTROL HORNS

❑ 1) Two nylon adjustable control horns have been

partially threaded onto the two aileron torque rods. Thread

the control horns into their final positions. The centerline

of each control horn should be 5/8" up from the top of the

wing. See figure # 9 below.

Figure # 9

INSTALLING THE AILERON LINKAGE

❑ 2) Using Magnum Z-Bend Pliers, make a Z-bend

in only one end of each of the two 1mm x 110mm push-

rod wires. Use wire cutters to remove any excess wire,

leaving about 3/16" of wire beyond the Z-bends.

❑ 3) Using a ruler and a pen, measure forward 1" from

the middle of the Z-bend and draw a mark. Do this on

both of the pushrod wires.

❑ 4) Using a pair of needle nose pliers, carefully bend

a "V" shape into each of the two pushrod wires at the

marks you drew. See photo # 29 below.

Photo # 29

❑ 5) Install the Z-bend in each pushrod wire into each

of the adjustable control horns.

☛

Orientate the pushrods so that the "V" bends are point-

ing toward the middle of the wing.

❑ 6) Plug the aileron servo into the receiver. Plug the

ESC into the receiver and the flight battery into the ESC.

Turn on the radio system and center the servo using the

trim lever on the transmitter.

❑ 7) Place a "dual arm" servo horn onto the aileron

servo, making sure that the servo horn is centered. Each

of the arms should have at least four holes in them.

❑ 8) Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped

between the wing and the ailerons, to hold the ailerons

centered.

❑ 9) With both the servo horn and the ailerons cen-

tered, use a pen to draw a mark on each pushrod wire

where it crosses the third hole out from the center of the

servo horn.

❑ 10) Using Magnum Z-Bend Pliers, make a Z-bend

in each pushrod wire at the marks you drew. Use wire

cutters to remove the excess wires.

❑ 11) Attach the servo horn to the Z-bends and attach

the servo horn to the servo, making sure that it's centered.

Install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw, pro-

vided with your servo, to secure the servo arm into place.

See photo # 30 below.

Photo # 30

❑ 12) Remove the masking tape from each aileron and

double check that both ailerons, and the aileron servo, are

still centered.

☛

To adjust the center-trim of the ailerons, use a pair of

pliers to carefully open or close the "V" in each pushrod

wire. Doing this will effectively lengthen or shorten the

pushrod wires.

ADJUSTING THE AILERON LINKAGE

❑ 13) With your radio system plugged in and turned

on, check the directions the aileron control surfaces move

and the amount of control deflection. To do this, push

right on the aileron control stick. The aileron on the right

side of the wing should move up and the aileron on the

left side should move down (looking at the wing right

side up, from the rear). If they do not, flip the servo re-

versing switch on your transmitter to change the direction.

❑ 14) Push right completely on the aileron control

stick. While holding the control stick completely right,

use a ruler and measure the amount the trailing edge of

each aileron moves up and down. These measurements

should both be 1/4". See figure # 10 below.

Figure # 10

❑ 15) If the control surface deflection is more or less

than 1/4" it must be changed. If your radio is equipped

with End Point Adjustments (EPA), make those adjust-

ments using the transmitter. (Refer to your radio guide

for further details.) If your radio does not have this fea-

ture, you can still make the adjustments to the linkage

manually.

❑ 16) If the ailerons are moving more than 1/4", move

the Z-bends in one hole toward the center of the servo

horn to decrease the control deflection. If the ailerons are

moving less than 1/4", move the Z-bends out one hole

from the center of the servo horn to increase the control

deflection. When adjusted properly, both ailerons should

move 1/4" both up and down.

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

COWLING

❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ Straight Edge Ruler

❑ Pen or Pencil

CUTTING THE AIR-INTAKE HOLES

☛

The electric motor, flight battery and ESC all require

sufficient cooling to operate properly. For this reason air

PARTS REQUIRED

❑ {1} Nylon Propeller

❑ {1} Plastic Spinner Cone

❑ {1} Plastic Spinner Backplate

❑ {1} Nylon Backplate Spacer Set

❑ {2} 3mm x 10mm Wood Screws

Photo # 31

☛

Scribe the plastic several times until the knife cuts

completely through. Don't try to cut completely through

the plastic all at once.

❑ 3) Reinstall the cowling using the four wood screws

you removed previously. Reverse the removal steps for

installation.

CUTTING THE AIR-EXIT HOLE

❑ 4) Using a ruler and a pen, measure back 1" from

the back edge of the wing saddle and draw a mark in the

center of the fuselage.

❑ 5) Using a modeling knife, carefully cut a 3/4"

diameter hole through the bottom of the fuselage at the

mark you drew. See photo # 32 below.

intake holes must be cut into the cowling and air-exit holes

must be cut into the bottom of the fuselage.

❑ 1) Using a # 0 phillips screwdriver, remove the four

wood screws that hold the cowling in place. Remove the

cowling and set the screws aside.

❑ 2) Using a modeling knife, very carefully cut out

the two air-intake holes in the front of the cowling. See

photo # 31 below.

Photo # 32

INSTALLING THE PROPELLER

AND SPINNER ASSEMBLY

❑ 6) Using a modeling knife, remove the nylon spin-

ner backplate adapter (that fits firmly over the propeller

shaft) from the plastic spur and press it firmly into the

spinner backplate.

❑ 7) Slide the spinner backplate and the propeller onto

the propeller shaft. Thread the machine screw and washer

into the front of the adaptor and tighten them against the

propeller. Tighten the screw until it is snug. It is not

necessary to overtighten it. See photo # 33 below.

Photo # 33

☛

Make sure that when you install the propeller it is

centered between the two molded pins; otherwise, the spin-

ner cone will not line up properly with the backplate.

❑ 8) Slide the plastic spinner cone over the propeller

and secure it into the molded grooves in the backplate.

Hold the spinner cone in place using two 3mm x 10mm

wood screws. Tighten the screws firmly using a # 0 phillips

screwdriver.

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

FINAL ASSEMBLY

❑ Kwik Bond Thick C/A

❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Scissors

PARTS REQUIRED

❑ {3} 30mm Velcro

Strips

❑ {1} Decal Set

❑ 1) Connect the red and black leads from the motor

to the red and black motor leads on the ESC. Mount the

ESC on top of the flight battery deck using a short strip of

Dubro Hook & Loop Material. See photo # 34 below.

Photo # 34

INSTALLING THE

ELECTRONIC SPEED CONTROL

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WattAge Extra 330l EP Instructions For Final Assembly

Brand: WattAge

Model: Extra 330l EP

Category: Toys & accessories

Type: Instructions For Final Assembly

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WattAge Extra 330l EP Instructions For Final Assembly

WattAge Extra 330l EP Instructions For Final Assembly

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