1
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Specifications:
●
Wing Span: 29-7/8 Inches (Top & Bottom)
●
Wing Area: 300 Square Inches
●
Length: 30-1/2 Inches
●
Weight RTF: 31 - 35 Ounces
●●
●●
●
Wing Loading: 14 - 17 Ounces Per Square Inch
●
Functions: Ailerons, Elevator, Rudder & Throttle
●
Power: Cobalt 400 Direct Drive w/7 x 4 Propeller
●
Radio Required: 4Ch or More Micro w/3 Micro Servos
●
ESC Required: 30 Amp Micro
●
Battery Required: 7 Cell CP1300SCR
INSTRUCTIONS FOR FINAL ASSEMBLY
The Wattage Ultimate Bipe EP is distributed
exclusively by Global Hobby Distributors
18480 Bandilier Circle, Fountain Valley, CA 92708
All contents copyright © 2003, Global Hobby
Distributors Version V1.0 March 2003
Kit Product Number 128401
IMPORTANT The Wattage Ultimate Bipe EP is not intended for inexperienced pilots. It is in no way a trainer. If you
are not comfortable flying aerobatic sport aircraft, we strongly suggest returning the Ultimate Bipe EP (brand new, in
the box with all original packaging) to the place of purchase.
Electric-Powered Aerobatic Small-Field Flyer
Brought to You By:
2
Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to service@globalhobby.net
TABLE OF CONTENTS
This R/C airplane is not a toy! If misused or abused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only
in open areas and preferably at a dedicated R/C flying site. We suggest having a qualified instructor carefully inspect your
airplane before its first flight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this airplane, your radio control
system and any other components purchased separately.
SAFETY WARNING
OUR GUARANTEE
Wattage guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This does not cover any component
parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Wattage's liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.
In that Wattage has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed for any damage resulting from
the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
FOR YOUR INFORMATION
To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgeable help with assembly and
during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area whose membership includes qualified
instructors. If there is no hobby shop in your area, we recommend that you contact the AMA at the address below. They will be able to
help you locate a flying field near you.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie IN 47302-9252
(800) 435-9262
www.modelaircraft.org
Safety Warning ..................................................................................................... 2
Introduction ........................................................................................................... 3
Section 1: Our Recommendations.......................................................... 4
Section 2: Tools and Supplies Required ................................................ 5
Section 3: Kit Contents ........................................................................... 6
Section 4: A Note About Covering .......................................................... 7
Section 5: Becoming Familiar with Your Cobalt 400 Motor ................... 7
Section 6: Breaking In the Super Cobalt 400 Motor .............................. 8
Section 7: Hinging the Control Surfaces ................................................ 9
Section 8: Stabilizer Installation ............................................................ 11
Section 9: Landing Gear Installation .................................................... 14
Section 10: Control Systems Installation .............................................. 15
Section 11: Top Wing & Strut Installation ............................................. 21
Section 12: Final Assembly ................................................................... 22
Section 13: Balancing the Ultimate Bipe EP ........................................ 24
Section 14: Lateral Balancing the Ultimate Bipe EP............................ 24
Section 15: Control Throws................................................................... 25
Section 16: Preflight Check & Safety ................................................... 25
Section 17: Flying the Ultimate Bipe EP .............................................. 27
Section 18: Ultimate Bipe EP Trimming Chart ..................................... 28
Section 19: Replacement Parts ............................................................ 29
Product Evaluation Sheet .................................................................................. 31
3
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This instruction manual is designed to guide you through the entire final assembly process of your new airplane in the
least amount of time possible. Along the way you'll learn how to properly assemble your new airplane and also learn
tips that will help you in the future. We have listed some of our recommendations below. Please read through them
before beginning assembly.
●
Please read through each step before beginning
assembly. You should find the layout very complete
and straightforward. Our goal is to guide you through
assembly without any of the headaches and hassles
that you might expect.
●
There are check boxes next to each step. After
you complete a step, check off the box. This will help
prevent you from losing your place.
●
Cover your work table with brown paper or a soft
cloth, both to protect the table and to protect the parts.
●
Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to put
the small parts in after you open the accessory bags.
●
We're all excited to get a new airplane in the air, but
take your time. This will ensure you build a straight,
strong and great flying airplane.
●
If you come across this symbol
☞
, it means that
this is an important point or an assembly hint.
If you should find a part missing or damaged, or have any questions about assembly, please
contact us at the address below:
Global Services
18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain Valley CA 92708
Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236 Email: service@globalhobby.net
INTRODUCTION
Thank you for purchasing the new Wattage Ultimate Bipe EP. Before completing the final assembly of your new
airplane, please carefully read through this instruction manual in its entirety. Doing so will ensure your success
the first time around!
Wattage Ultimate Bipe EP Special Features:
●
Compact Design for Exciting Small-Field Flying
●
One-piece built-up wings, Plywood Outer Wing Struts and Plywood Center Cabane Strut
●
Entire Airframe is Hand-Built from Quality Balsa & Plywood
●
Covered with Real Iron-On Covering Material
●
Preinstalled Cobalt 400 Direct Drive Motor for More Power
●
Prepainted Cowling, Wheel Pants & Tinted Canopy
●
Generous Hardware and Custom Decal Set Included - Including Durable Aluminum Main Gear
●
Fast & Easy Assembly - Over 40 High Resolution Digital Photos & Drawings Guide You
To serve your needs better, please include your email address with any correspondence you send to us. Your email
address will be added to our Customer Service Database so you will automatically receive free updates and tech
notices for your particular product. You will also receive repair status updates (if applicable) and other important
information about your product as it becomes available.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS
Global Hobby Distributors will not disclose the information it collects to outside parties. Global Hobby Distributors does not sell,
trade, or rent your personal information to others . Your privacy is important to us.
Visit Our Website
http://globalservices.globalhobby.com
4
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This section describes our recommendations to help you in deciding which types of accessories to purchase for
your new Ultimate Bipe EP. Please read through this entire section very carefully. We have provided you with
tips and recommendations that, if followed, will result in a great flying airplane. Failure to follow our
recommendations may result in a poor flying airplane.
IMPORTANT When choosing accessories for your Ultimate Bipe EP, such as servos, ESC, receiver and other
related accessories, it's very important to take the weight of these items into consideration. Remember, the lighter the
overall weight of the finished airplane, the better the airplane will fly.
SECTION 1: OUR RECOMMENDATIONS
What Servos Do I Use?
The servos you use should be the lightest available, yet still have an adequate amount of torque. We suggest using servos
that weigh no more than 0.34 ounces and have a torque rating of no less than 11 ounces per square inch. Cirrus CS-6.2
servos, Cirrus CS-09 servos or Hitec HS-55 servos would be a perfect choice.
What Flight Battery Do I Use?
Through much testing with this power system and airframe combination, we have found several different flight battery
packs that work well and will provide you with good overall performance. We recommend using either a Sanyo 7 cell
800AR-SCR flight pack or a Sanyo 7cell CP1300SCR flight pack. The CP1300SCR pack is ideal because it will provide
much more runtime without any significant weight penalty. We do not suggest using NiMH battery packs. At this time they
cannot handle the current draw of this power system.
Important Note: We strongly suggest replacing the stock Tamiya connector that is likely preinstalled on your ESC
and flight battery with a more efficient Dean's Ultra-Plug battery connector. The Tamiya connector is not able to
withstand the current draw of the high-power cobalt 400 motor.
What Electronic Speed Control Do I Use?
The ESC you choose should be capable of handling no less than 30 amps continuous current. Again, lighter is better. Your
ESC should weigh no more than 1 ounce including the wiring and switch.
Important Note: To minimize current loss, we suggest cutting off the bullet connectors from the Cobalt 400 motor
and your ESC, and soldering the motor wires directly to the ESC motor wires.
What Receiver Do I Use?
The receiver should be as light as possible, preferably 1/2oz. or less. Most four-channel micro receivers would be a good
choice. If you plan on using the Hitec 555 Micro receiver, we suggest removing the case to reduce the receiver's overall
weight. If you do remove the case from your receiver we strongly suggest wrapping the receiver with heat-shrink material
to protect the internal components.
Important Note: We don't suggest using short-range receivers like the Hitec Feather or Cirrus MRX-4. The range
provided by these receivers will not be long enough for you to keep control of the airplane.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT THE COBALT 400 POWER SYSTEM
The airplane includes a 7 x 4 propeller, that when used with a 7 cell flight battery results in a static amp draw of
approximately 25 amps. Using a larger propeller and/or more cells will result in an amp draw of over 30 amps, which
will cause failure of the power system. This is not recommended; however, the airplane has been designed so that an
in-line gear box can easily be added. In-line gear boxes designed for 480 size motors with 1/8" shafts can be used. In
conjunction with a 10 or 11 inch propeller (depending on the gear ratio used) and a 7 - 8 cell CP1300SCR Sanyo flight
battery, this combination will result in better performance and longer flight times.
5
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Here's a List of What We Used to Finish Our Ultimate Bipe EP:
QTY. 1 759118 Hitec 555 Micro Receiver
Hitec Dual Conversion FM RX Crystal
QTY. 3 444045 Cirrus CS-09 Micro Servos
QTY. 1 128486 Wattage IC-30A Micro ESC
QTY. 1 128577 7 Cell CP1300SCR NiCD Flight Battery
QTY. 1 130108 Wattage PF-12 AC/DC Park Flyer Charger
QTY. 1 625085 Dean's Ultra-Plug Battery Connector Set
QTY. 1 869020 Dubro Double-Sided Tape
IMPORTANT The Cirrus servos and Wattage ESC use a universal connector that is compatible with all name-brand radio control
systems. The part number listed for the Hitec 555 micro receiver is compatible with Hitec radio control systems only. This receiver
is also available for JR, Futaba and Airtronics radio control systems.
When you purchase the Hitec 555 micro receiver, you must also purchase a Hitec brand crystal compatible with the receiver. The
crystal must also be on the same frequency as your transmitter. Note that the Hitec 555 micro receiver uses a dual conversion
FM Hitec crystal.
OUR RECOMMENDATIONS, CONTINUED....
Note: If you're wondering why we've recommended
using a Dean's Ultra-Plug connector, please read the
important note on page # 4 under "What Flight Battery
Do I Use?" A high-quality battery connector is just as
important as a good ESC and flight battery.
❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy # 887560
❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A # 887500
❑ Kwik Bond Thick C/A # 887510
❑ Kwik Bond C/A Debonder # 887545
❑ # 1 & # 2 Phillips Head Screwdrivers
❑ 7/64" Hex Wrench
❑ Magnum Z-Bend Pliers # 237473
❑ Wire Cutters
❑ Needle Nose Pliers
❑ Adjustable Wrench
❑ Excel Modeling Knife # 692801
❑ Scissors
❑ Electric or Hand Drill
❑ Assorted Drill Bits
❑ Ernst Airplane Stand # 223977
❑ Ruler
❑ Pencil
❑ Builder's Triangle
❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑ Dubro T-Pins # 567677
❑ Masking Tape
❑ Waxed Paper
❑ Paper Towels
❑ Rubbing Alcohol
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks # 864204
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups # 864205
❑ K&S 30 Watt Soldering Iron # 598120
*
❑ Solder
*
❑ Heat-Shrink Tubing (Assorted Sizes)
*
SECTION 2: TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
The tools and supplies listed below will be necessary to finish the assembly of your Ultimate Bipe EP. We suggest having
these items onhand before beginning assembly.
*
These items are necessary to solder the motor wires on the motor to the motor wires on your ESC, and to solder the new
high-quality Dean's Ultra-Plug connector to your ESC and your flight battery.
6
Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to service@globalhobby.net
We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for easier identification during assembly. Before you begin
assembly, group the parts as we list them below. This will ensure that you have all of the parts before you begin assembly
and it will also help you become familiar with each part.
AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES
❑ (1) Fuselage w/Motor, Cowling & Canopy
❑ (1) Bottom Wing w/Ailerons
❑ (1) Top Wing
❑ (1) Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator
❑ (1) Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder
SECTION 3: KIT CONTENTS
WING STRUT ASSEMBLIES
❑ (1) Center Cabane Strut
❑ (2) Outer Wing Struts w/Blind Nuts
❑ (4) Prebent Aluminum Mounting Brackets
❑ (2) M3 x 8 Machine Screws
❑ (4) M3 x 6 Machine Screws
❑ (4) M3 x 10 Wood Screws
Global Services
18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain Valley CA 92708
Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236 Email: service@globalhobby.net
On the Web
http://globalservices.globalhobby.com
MAIN LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLY
❑ (1) Aluminum Main Gear Strut
❑ (2) Wheel Pants
❑ (2) Main Gear Wheels
❑ (2) M3 x 10 Wood Screws
❑ (2) M3 x 25 Machine Screws
❑ (4) M3 Hex Nuts
❑ (2) M3 Lock Nuts
❑ (4) M2 x 5 Wood Screws
CONTROL SYSTEM ASSEMBLIES
❑ (2) 17-3/4" Pushrod Wires
❑ (2) 4" Pushrod Wires
❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns
❑ (2) Nylon Pushrod Snap-Links
❑ (13) C/A Style Hinges
If you find any parts missing or damaged, please contact us at the address below:
MISCELLANEOUS PARTS
❑ (1) Spinner Assembly w/Mounting Screws
❑ (1) 7 x 4 Nylon Propeller
❑ (1) Plywood Aileron Servo Tray
❑ (1) M4 x 20 Machine Screw
❑ (1) Velcro
®
Strip
❑ (1) Decal Set
TAIL WHEEL ASSEMBLY
❑ (1) Tail Wheel Wire
❑ (1) Tail Wheel
❑ (2) Nylon Wheel Retainers
We stock a complete line of replacement parts for your Wattage Ultimate Bipe EP.
Please refer to page # 29 for more details and a replacement parts list.
☞
To convert inches into millimeters: Inches x 25.4 = mm
To convert millimeters into inches: Millimeters / 25.4 = in
7
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SECTION 5: BECOMING FAMILIAR WITH YOUR COBALT 400 MOTOR
Your Wattage Ultimate Bipe EP is powered by the Wattage Super Cobalt 400 Direct Drive motor. This motor is a
high-quality alternative to lower power, closed end-bell motors, and more expensive specialty motors. The Super Cobalt
400 Direct Drive motor features a 3.2mm (1/8") shaft and a bolt pattern that can match either 05 or 400 size mounting
dimensions. And at 3.7 ounces, this motor is light for its enormous power potential.
Please take a moment to familiarize yourself with the Wattage Super Cobalt 400 Direct Drive motor:
Nominal Voltage: 7V
Operating Voltage: 6V - 10V
No-Load Motor Speed: 19,500 RPM
RPM Per Volt: 2,395 RPM
Max Efficiency: 75%
Max Efficiency Current: 18A
Max Loading: 31A/20s
Stall Current: 55A
Shaft Diameter: 3.2mm (1/8")
Weight: 3.7 Ounces
Propeller Range: 5 x 5 to 8 x 6
The motor break-in procedure begins at the top of the next page. Do not omit this
section. It is very important to break in the motor before flight.
Important Note: Continuous amps should not exceed more than 30 amps, so if you use propellers larger
than 7 x 4, you will need to reduce voltage accordingly.
The covering material used on the Wattage Ultimate Bipe EP is real iron-on, heat-shrink covering material, not cheap
"shelf paper." Because of this, it is possible with heat and humidity changes that the covering on your airplane may
wrinkle or sag. This trait is inherent in all types of heat-shrink material. To remove any wrinkles that might be visible
you will need to purchase, or borrow from a fellow modeler, a heat iron. If you need to purchase one, the Global Heat
Sealing Iron # 360900 is recommended.
Follow this simple procedure to remove the wrinkles:
❑ Plug in and turn on the sealing iron to the medium-high temperature setting. Allow the iron to heat up for approximately
5 - 7 minutes.
❑ After the iron has reached temperature, lightly apply the iron to the wrinkled section of the covering. Move the iron
slowly over the wrinkled section until the covering tightens and the wrinkles disappear. You will notice that the color of the
covering will darken when it is heated. When the covering cools back down, it will return to its normal color.
☞
If the color layer smears from any of the seams the temperature of the iron is too hot. Turn the temperature dial down
and wait about 5 minutes for the iron to adjust to the lower temperature. You can remove any excess color streaks using
a paper towel soaked with a small quantity of Acetone.
SECTION 4: A NOTE ABOUT COVERING
WARNING We do not suggest storing your airplane in an extremely hot environment (like the back of your car in
direct sunlight) for any length of time. The extreme heat could cause the covering material to wrinkle and possibly
damage the fragile components of the radio system, ESC or batteries.
8
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Taking time to break in the motor now will result in increased motor performance and longevity. You can either leave
the motor secured to the fuselage during the break-in process or you can remove the motor and secure it to a test
stand. If you leave the motor in the fuselage, make sure to hold the fuselage securely during the break-in process.
❑ Remove the cowling and set it and the four wood screws aside for now.
☞
If you leave the motor on the fuselage during the break-in process, it's very important to remove the cowling so that the
motor receives adequate cooling.
❑ Install a smaller propeller onto the motor than the one included with the airplane. We suggest using a 5 x 5 or a 6 x 5
propeller to begin the break-in procedure. We don't suggest using the 7 x 4 propeller included for the break-in procedure
because it will put too much load on the motor before it's fully broken in.
❑ To start the break-in procedure, attach the motor wires directly to a fully charged 4 cell battery pack. A receiver battery
pack works great for this. Run the motor in 5 minute intervals for a total of 15 minutes runtime. This means run the motor
for 5 minutes, unplug the battery pack, let the motor cool for 5 minutes, and repeat this three times for a total of 15 minutes
runtime. This technique will begin to seat the motor brushes and prevent the motor from overheating.
❑ After you've completed the initial 15 minute break-in procedure, connect the motor to your ESC and the flight battery
you plan on using to fly the airplane. Run the motor in 1 to 2 minute intervals of varying throttle settings with increasingly
larger propellers until you reach the 7 x 4 propeller included with the airplane. During this process, let the motor cool
between runs and do not run the motor at full power for more than 15 seconds at a time.
IMPORTANT To prevent current loss, we strongly suggest soldering the motor wires directly to the ESC motor wires.
We also suggest using a Dean's Ultra-Plug battery connector in place of the stock Tamiya connector likely preinstalled
on your flight battery and ESC.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT MOTOR COOLING
The Super Cobalt 400 Direct Drive motor must have airflow through and over the motor to prevent overheating. It's
important that the air-exit holes be larger than the air-intake holes. We also strongly suggest that the flight battery and
ESC receive maximum cooling, too. This will allow your ESC and flight battery to work at maximum efficiency.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT MOTOR MAINTENANCE
We do not recommend using spray cleaners or liquid solvents to clean the motor. Any dust and debris should be
removed using compressed air, either from an air-compressor or from a can.
Regularly check the motor brushes and springs. If they look worn, replace them immediately. Worn motor brushes will
cause short motor life and poor performance.
The part number for the replacement brushes and springs set is 131475.
SECTION 6: BREAKING IN THE SUPER COBALT 400 MOTOR
After breaking in your motor, please read the important information below
about motor cooling and maintenance. Failure to follow these suggestions
can result in poor motor performance.
9
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❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy
❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A
❑ Kwik Bond C/A Debonder
❑ Excel Modeling Knife
❑ Electric Drill
❑ 1/16" Drill Bit
❑ Ernst Airplane Stand
❑ Ruler
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
❑ (1) Bottom Wing w/Ailerons
❑ (1) Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator
❑ (1) Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder
❑ (1) Tail Wheel Wire
SECTION 7: HINGING THE CONTROL SURFACES
❑ (1) Tail Wheel
❑ (2) Nylon Wheel Retainers
❑ (10) C/A Style Hinges
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
❑ Pencil
❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑ Waxed Paper
❑ Paper Towels
❑ Rubbing Alcohol
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups
Step 1: Hinging the Ailerons
❑ Center each hinge within its precut slot in both ailerons.
If you can't push the hinge in halfway, carefully cut the slot
deeper using a modeling knife.
☞
Each aileron is hinged using three hinges and the precut
slot in each hinge should be perpendicular to the leading edge
of the ailerons.
❑ Carefully glue each hinge into place using 5-6 drops of
thin C/A on each side of the hinge. Do not use thick C/A or
epoxy. Use only thin C/A for proper adhesion.
☞
If any C/A gets onto the aileron, it can be removed promptly using a paper towel soaked with a small quantity of
C/A Debonder.
❑ Cut out a 2" square piece of waxed paper and slide it
between the torque rod and the trailing edge of the wing on
one wing half.
☞
The waxed paper will prevent epoxy from gluing the torque
rod to the trailing edge.
❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper, lightly sand the end of the aileron torque rod to roughen the surface. Doing this will allow the
epoxy to stick to the metal more securely.
❑ Mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy. Apply a thin layer to the end of the aileron torque rod and pack more into the
predrilled hole and the precut groove in the leading edge of the aileron.
10
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❑ Slide the aileron and its hinges into the hinge slots in the trailing edge of the wing, making sure that the torque rod is
firmly seated in the leading edge of the aileron. Adjust the aileron so that the tip of the aileron is even with the wing tip.
❑ While holding the aileron tightly against the wing, pivot
the aileron down about 45º and apply 5-6 drops of thin C/A to
the exposed area of each hinge. Turn the wing over and
repeat for the other side of the hinges.
☞
Remove any C/A that may run down the hinge line using
C/A Debonder.
❑ After the C/A has dried completely - about 15 minutes -
pivot the aileron up and down to free up the hinges.
IMPORTANT After the C/A and epoxy have fully cured, gently grasp the aileron and pull on it like you are trying to pull
out the hinges. The hinges should hold securely. If one or more hinges feels loose, apply more thin C/A to the hinge(s)
and allow it to completely cure.
❑ Repeat the previous procedures to install the second aileron.
Step 2: Hinging the Elevator
❑ Hinge the elevator using the same technique as hinging the ailerons. The elevator is hinged using a total of
four hinges - two per side. Remember, after allowing the C/A to fully cure, pull on the elevator to check the integrity
of the hinges.
Step 3: Installing the Tail Wheel Wire
❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, measure up 9/16" from the bottom of the rudder (at the leading edge) and draw a mark.
❑ Using a drill with a 1/16" diameter drill bit, carefully drill a
3/4" deep hole into the leading edge of the rudder, at the mark
you drew.
IMPORTANT Make sure that you drill the hole perpendicular
to the leading edge and be careful not to drill out through the
side of the rudder.
❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut a shallow groove in
the leading edge of the rudder from the base of the hole down
to the bottom of the rudder.
11
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❑ Test-fit the tail wheel wire into the hole you drilled. When
properly aligned, the wire should rest within the groove and
the front edge of the wire should be flush with the leading
edge of the rudder.
❑ When satisfied with the fit, remove the tail wheel wire
and use 220 grit sandpaper to roughen only the gluing
surfaces of the wire.
❑ Glue the tail wheel wire into place using 5 minute epoxy. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing
alcohol, and allow the epoxy to set up before proceeding.
❑ After the epoxy has set up, install the tail wheel using two nylon wheel retainers. Very carefully apply one drop of thin
C/A to the outer wheel retainer to secure it into place. This will prevent the wheel from coming off during flight.
IMPORTANT Do not hinge the rudder to the vertical stabilizer at this time. It will be hinged into place after installing
the vertical stabilizer. If you hinge the rudder now, it will be impossible to install the vertical stabilizer.
❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy
❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A
❑ Kwik Bond C/A Debonder
❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑ Excel Modeling Knife
❑ Ernst Airplane Stand
❑ Ruler
❑ Pencil
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
❑ (1) Fuselage w/Motor, Cowling & Canopy
❑ (3) C/A Style Hinges
SECTION 8: STABILIZER INSTALLATION
❑ (1) M4 x 20 Machine Screw
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
❑ Builder's Triangle
❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑ Dubro T-Pins
❑ Masking Tape
❑ Paper Towels
❑ Rubbing Alcohol
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups
Step 1: Installing the Horizontal Stabilizer
❑ Carefully apply a couple of drops of thin C/A into the
threaded wing hold-down hole in the fuselage.
WARNING Allow the C/A to dry completely before proceeding
or you may inadvertently glue the wing to the fuselage.
❑ Set the wing into the wing saddle and secure it into place
using the M4 x 20 machine screw.
12
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❑ Using a modeling knife and a ruler, carefully cut out the
section of the fuselage directly behind the horizontal stabilizer
mounting slot.
IMPORTANT Save the piece that you cut out. It will be
glued back into place after mounting the stabilizer.
❑ Slide the stabilizer into the mounting slot and temporarily
align it. The stabilizer should be pushed forward completely
and the cutout in the elevator should be centered from side to
side with the back of the fuselage.
❑ When satisfied with the alignment, hold only the trailing
edge of the stabilizer in position using a T-Pin.
☞
The front of the stabilizer should be able to pivot from
side to side and the back should stay firmly in place and aligned.
❑ Use a ruler to carefully measure the distance between
the tips of the stabilizer and the tips of the wing. Pivot the
front of the stabilizer until both of these measurements are
equal. When both measurements are equal, the stabilizer is
square to the wing.
❑ When you are satisfied that the stabilizer is square to the wing, use a pencil to draw a couple of marks on each side of
the front of the stabilizer where it and the fuselage sides meet, then use a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold the
stabilizer firmly in place and aligned.
❑ With the stabilizer held firmly in place, look from the front
of the airplane at both the wing and the stabilizer. When
aligned properly, the stabilizer should be parallel to the wing.
☞
If the stabilizer is out of alignment, remove it and use 220
grit sandpaper with a sanding block to sand down the higher
side of the stabilizer mounting slot, then reinstall the stabilizer
and check the alignment once more. Repeat this procedure
until you are satisfied with the alignment.
❑ After you're satisfied with the alignment, remove the stabilizer and mix a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy. Care-
fully apply a thin layer to the top and bottom of the gluing surface of the stabilizer and to the gluing surfaces of the stabilizer
mounting slot.
B=B-1
C=C-1
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❑ Slide the stabilizer into place and realign it, double-checking all of your measurements once more before the epoxy
sets up. Quickly remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the stabilizer in place until
the epoxy sets up.
Step 2: Installing the Vertical Stabilizer
❑ Push the vertical stabilizer into the mounting slot in the
fuselage. When properly aligned, the stabilizer should be
pushed down firmly and the trailing edge should be even with
the back edge of the fuselage.
❑ With the stabilizer in place and aligned, use a builder's
triangle to check and make sure that the vertical stabilizer is
aligned 90º to the horizontal stabilizer.
❑ When satisfied with the alignment, remove the stabilizer and use a modeling knife to cut away and remove the
covering material from the top of the fuselage, where the stabilizer will be glued into place.
❑ Mix a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy and apply a thin layer to the gluing surfaces of the stabilizer and to the
mounting slot in the fuselage. Push the stabilizer into place and realign it, double-checking all of your measurements once
more before the epoxy sets up. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the stabilizer
in place until the epoxy has set up.
Step 3: Hinging the Rudder
❑ Hinge the rudder using the same technique as hinging the elevator. The rudder is hinged using a total of three
hinges - two in the stabilizer and one in the fuselage. Remember, after allowing the C/A to fully cure, pull on the rudder
to check the integrity of the hinges.
❑ After the epoxy sets up, use 5 minute epoxy to glue the
piece that you cut out previously back into the fuselage.
IMPORTANT Be careful not to get any glue on the elevator
joiner.
❑ Pivot the elevator up and down several times to ensure it
moves freely.
14
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❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A
❑ # 1 & # 2 Phillips Head Screwdrivers
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
❑ (1) Aluminum Main Gear Strut
❑ (2) Wheel Pants
❑ (2) Main Gear Wheels
❑ (2) M3 x 10 Wood Screws
SECTION 9: LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION
❑ (2) M3 x 25 Machine Screws
❑ (4) M3 Hex Nuts
❑ (2) M3 Lock Nuts
❑ (4) M2 x 5 Wood Screws
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
❑ Adjustable Wrench
❑ Ernst Airplane Stand
Step 1: Installing the Main Gear Strut
❑ Install the main gear strut to the bottom of the fuselage,
using two M3 x 10 wood screws.
IMPORTANT The front of the strut is angled and the back
of the strut is straight. Make sure that the back of the strut
(straight edge) is toward the back of the fuselage.
Step 2: Installing the Wheels & Wheel Pants
❑ Slide one main gear wheel onto one M3 x 25 machine
screw.
❑ Thread one M3 hex nut onto the screw and up against
the wheel, but don't tighten the nut. The wheel should be
able to spin freely.
❑ Very carefully apply one or two drops of thin C/A to the
hex nut to lock it into place, being careful not to get any C/A
between the machine screw and the wheel. Allow the C/A to
fully cure before proceeding.
❑ After the C/A has fully cured, thread a second M3 hex nut
onto the machine screw and gently tighten it against the first
hex nut.
❑ Slide the axle assembly through the hole in the main gear
strut and secure it into place using one M3 lock nut.
IMPORTANT When tightening the lock nut, hold the
machine screw steady; don't hold the hex nuts.
15
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❑ Slide one wheel pant over the wheel, making sure that
the precut slot in the wheel pant fits firmly over the two
hex nuts.
❑ Push the wheel pant completely down into place and line
up the predrilled holes in the wheel pant with the predrilled
holes in the main gear strut.
❑ Secure the wheel pant into place using two M2 x 5
wood screws.
❑ Double-check that the wheel spins freely within the wheel pant, then repeat the previous procedures to install the
second wheel and wheel pant assembly.
❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy
❑ # 0 & # 1 Phillips Head Screwdrivers
❑ Magnum Z-Bend Pliers
❑ Wire Cutters
❑ Needle Nose Pliers
❑ Excel Modeling Knife
❑ Electric or Hand Drill
❑ 5/64" Drill Bit
❑ Ernst Airplane Stand
❑ Ruler
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
❑ (2) 17-3/4" Pushrod Wires
❑ (2) 4" Pushrod Wires
❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns
SECTION 10: CONTROL SYSTEMS INSTALLATION
❑ (2) Nylon Pushrod Snap-Links
❑ (1) Plywood Aileron Servo Tray
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
❑ Pencil
❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑ Masking Tape
❑ Paper Towels
❑ Rubbing Alcohol
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups
❑ K&S 30 Watt Soldering Iron
❑ Solder
❑ Heat-Shrink Tubing (Assorted Sizes)
Step 1: Installing the Elevator Control System
❑ Carefully install your elevator servo into the servo tray,
making sure that the servo output shaft is toward the front of
the fuselage, as shown.
☞
The holes in the servo tray are precut to fit most micro
servos. Depending on the particular servo you're using, you
may need to enlarge the holes slightly.
IMPORTANT The elevator servo is installed in the left side
of the servo tray, as shown.
16
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❑ Slide one nylon pushrod snap-link onto one 17-3/4" long
pushrod wire, then make an L-Bend in the very end of the
wire, using needle nose pliers.
❑ Using a pair of needle nose pliers, carefully bend a "V"
shape in the wire, as shown. The middle of the "V" should be
7/8" in front of the L-Bend and the "V" shape should be
toward the L-Bend, as shown.
IMPORTANT Make sure that when you bend the "V" shape
into the wire that the snap-link is between the L-Bend and the
"V" shape, as shown.
❑ Insert the L-Bend into the outermost hole in one nylon
control horn, so that the longer portion of the pushrod wire is
toward the right side of the control horn, and hook the
snap-link over the end of the wire.
☞
Positioning the longer portion of the wire on the right side
of the control horn will prevent the pushrod from binding when
it is installed.
❑ Carefully position the control horn so that the molded
pushrod attachment holes are lined up over the elevator hinge
line and angle the control horn toward the fuselage so it is
lined up with the pushrod wire.
❑ When satisfied with the alignment, gently push the
control horn down to make an impression of the control horn
mounting studs onto the elevator.
❑ Carefully slide the plain end of the pushrod wire (with the control horn still attached) into the nylon pushrod housing in
the right side of the fuselage.
❑ Using a 5/64" diameter drill bit, drill two holes through the
elevator at the two marks left by the control horn.
❑ With the control horn attached to the pushrod wire, firmly
push the control horn into place.
IMPORTANT So the control doesn't come loose, it will be
glued to the elevator, but don't glue it into place yet. That will
be done later.
IMPORTANT The "V" shaped bend is necessary to allow center-trim adjustments to the pushrod wire. Do not omit
this procedure.
17
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❑ Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the horizontal stabilizer and the elevator, to hold the elevator
centered.
❑ Plug the elevator servo into the receiver, then plug the ESC into the receiver and the flight battery into the ESC . Turn
on the radio system and center the servo using the trim lever on the transmitter.
❑ Place a servo horn onto the elevator servo, making
sure that the servo horn is centered and points toward the
fuselage side.
❑ With both the servo horn and the elevator centered, use
a pencil to draw a mark on the pushrod wire where it crosses
the fourth hole out from the center of the servo horn.
❑ Using Z-Bend Pliers, make a Z-bend in the pushrod wire
at the mark you drew, then use wire cutters to cut away the
excess wire.
❑ Connect the servo arm to the Z-Bend and attach the servo
horn to the servo output shaft, making sure that the servo
horn is centered.
☞
To make it easier to make the Z-Bend, remove the
pushrod from the control horn and pull the pushrod as far
forward as possible. This will give you more room to work.
❑ Install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw, provided with your servo, to secure the servo horn into place.
❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut away and remove the covering material from the bottom of the elevator, where the
control horn will be glued into place.
❑ With the control horn attached to the pushrod wire, glue the control horn to the elevator using a small dab of 5 minute
epoxy. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to set up completely
before proceeding.
❑ Remove the masking tape from the elevator and double-check that the servo horn and the elevator are centered. If
the elevator is not centered, use a pair of pliers to carefully open or close the "V" in the pushrod wire. Doing this will
effectively lengthen or shorten the pushrod wire, centering the elevator.
Step 2: Installing the Rudder Control System
IMPORTANT The rudder control system is installed in much the same way as the elevator control system. Servo
installation is the same, control horn installation is the same, etc. There are a couple of minor differences, but those
are pointed out for you in this step.
❑ Install your rudder servo into the servo tray, making sure that the servo output shaft is toward the front of the fuselage.
18
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❑ Slide the remaining nylon pushrod snap-link onto the
remaining 17-3/4" long pushrod wire and carefully make an
L-Bend and a "V" shaped bend in the pushrod wire. For this
pushrod though, the "V" shaped bend should be made away
from the L-Bend, as shown.
❑ Insert the L-Bend into the outermost hole in the remaining
nylon control horn so that the longer portion of the pushrod
wire is toward the left side of the control horn, and hook the
snap-link over the end of the wire.
❑ Dry-fit the control horn to the left side of the rudder,
making sure that the pushrod attachment holes are positioned
over the rudder hinge line and that the control horn is lined up
with the pushrod wire.
IMPORTANT Remember not to glue the control horn to the
rudder yet.
❑ Center the rudder and the rudder servo horn, then mark
and make a Z-Bend in the pushrod wire.
☞
Remember to remove the control horn and pull the
pushrod wire forward to make this easier.
❑ Attach the servo horn to the pushrod, then place the servo
horn onto the servo, securing it into place using the retaining
screw provided with your servo mounting hardware.
❑ Glue the rudder control horn to the rudder using a small dab of 5 minute epoxy. Allow the epoxy to completely set up,
then center the rudder by using a pair of pliers to carefully open or close the "V" in the pushrod wire.
Step 3: Installing the Aileron Control System
❑ Carefully install your aileron servo into the aileron servo
tray, as shown. Again, depending on the size of your servo,
you may need to enlarge the size of the hole to fit.
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❑ Test-fit the servo tray to the wing. When positioned
properly, the base of your servo should be centered within
the cutout in the wing and the mounting rails on the bottom of
the servo tray should fit flush against the top of the wing. The
servo output shaft should be toward the leading edge of the
wing, too.
IMPORTANT Depending on the height of your servo, you
may need to make the cutout in the wing deeper to allow the
mounting rails on the servo tray to fit flush against the top of
the wing.
❑ When satisfied with the fit and alignment, cut away and remove the covering material from the top of the wing where
the mounting rails will be glued and glue the servo tray assembly into place, using 5 minute epoxy. Remove any excess
epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the servo tray in place until the epoxy completely sets up.
❑ Two nylon adjustable control horns have been partially threaded onto the two aileron torque rods. Thread the control
horns into their final positions. The top of the control horns should be even with the top of the torque rods.
❑ Carefully make a Z-Bend and a "V" shaped bend in one
end of each aileron pushrod wire. The "V" bend in each
pushrod wire should be toward the Z-Bend, as shown.
IMPORTANT The "V" shaped bends should be located 3/4"
in front of the Z-Bends.
❑ Plug the aileron servo into the receiver. Plug the ESC into the receiver and the flight battery into the ESC. Turn on the
radio system and center the servo using the trim lever on the transmitter.
❑ Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the wing and the ailerons, to hold the ailerons centered.
❑ Install the Z-Bend in each pushrod wire into each of the adjustable control horns.
IMPORTANT Install the pushrod wires so that the "V" shaped bends are toward the center of the wing.
❑ Place a servo horn onto your servo and make a Z-Bend
in each pushrod wire where they cross the fourth hole out
from the center of the servo arm.
❑ Cut away the excess wire and install the servo horn to
the pushrods and attach the servo horn to the servo, securing
it into place using the retaining screw provided with your servo
mounting hardware.
❑ Remove the masking tape from the ailerons and center them by using a pair of pliers to carefully open or close the "V"
in each pushrod wire.
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Step 4: Installing the Receiver
❑ Plug the elevator and rudder servo leads into their proper
slots in your receiver.
❑ Mount the receiver to the plywood deck, in front of the
servos, using a piece of double-side tape (not included).
❑ To run the antenna, we wound up the excess antenna onto an antenna bobbin and secured the bobbin to the side of the
fuselage ,using a small piece of double-sided foam tape. We then ran the antenna out through the small air-exit hole in the
bottom of the fuselage and taped the end of it to the back of the fuselage, using a piece of clear tape.
The locations of the radio equipment shown in the next few steps is only approximate. This is how our test airplanes
were set up. The locations of your radio equipment could differ and should be dependent on what type of equipment
you use and where you balance your airplane.
Step 5: Installing the Electronic Speed Control
Important Tip: To minimize current loss, it is imperative that you remove the stock Tamiya connector likely preinstalled
on your ESC and flight battery, and replace it with a high-quality connector, such as a Dean's Ultra-Plug. Failure to do
this can cause a loss of power and result in a poor flying airplane.
❑ Carefully solder the positive and negative motor wires to the motor wire on your ESC, being careful that the polarity is
correct. Make sure to use heat-shrink tubing to insulate the solder joints.
Important Tip: We strongly suggest removing the motor plugs on the motor and the motor plugs that are likely
preinstalled on your ESC and soldering the motor wires directly to the motor wires on your ESC. Bypassing the plugs
will prevent any chance of current loss which could affect the amount of power to the motor.
❑ Mount the ESC to the plywood plate, directly behind the
firewall, using a small piece of double-sided foam tape.
❑ Remove the battery door from the bottom of the fuselage and set it aside.
❑ Run the ESC throttle lead through the fuselage and plug it into the receiver.
❑ If your ESC features a micro switch you can mount it to the side of the fuselage using two small wood screws
(not included.)
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