WattAge Cub 400EP Instructions For Final Assembly

Brand: WattAge

Model: Cub 400EP

Category: Toys & accessories

Type: Instructions For Final Assembly

INSTRUCTIONS FOR FINAL ASSEMBLY

The Wattage Cub 400EP ARF is distributed exclusively by Global Hobby Distributors

18480 Bandilier Circle, Fountain Valley, CA 92728

Thank you for choosing the Wattage Cub 400EP ARF. Whether you have built and flown other electric

airplanes in the past, or if this is your first, you will appreciate the high quality, easy final assembly and

excellent flight characteristics of the Cub 400EP.

The Cub 400EP is a small electric-powered airplane built specifically for direct drive Speed 400 motors and

micro servos. The entire airframe is built up from lightweight balsa and plywood and covered with heat shrink

polyester covering material. This results in an airplane that is light, yet durable. And because of its light

weight, performance using a standard Speed 400 motor is excellent. The airplane is slow and stable throughout

the entire speed range, making it a perfect choice for beginner fliers. More experienced fliers will enjoy the Cub

400’s semi-scale outline and good performance.

When you open the box, you will notice that you won't have much left to do or to purchase to finish your

new airplane. Included is all of the hardware necessary to finish the kit, including: prebent wire pushrods,

control horns, landing gear wires, wheels, molded cowl, molded windshield and color decals.

We hope you enjoy your new Wattage Cub 400EP ARF as much as we have enjoyed designing and building

it for you. If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to contact us. We have also included a

product survey in the back of this manual. After you have finished building the Cub 400EP, please take a few

minutes to fill it out and send it to us. We enjoy hearing any comments or suggestions that you may have.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

SAFETY WARNING

This R/C airplane is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only in open

areas and preferably at a dedicated R/C flying site. We suggest having a qualified instructor carefully inspect your

airplane before its first flight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this airplane, your radio

control system and electronic speed control.

To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgeable help with assembly and during your

first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area whose membership includes qualified instructors. We also

recommend that you contact the AMA at the address below. They will be able to help you locate a flying field in your area also.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie IN 47302-9252

(800) 435-9262

www.modelaircraft.org

Safety Warning ............................................................... 2

A Note About Covering ................................................. 3

Our Recommendations................................................... 4

Additional Items Required ............................................. 5

Tools & Supplies Required ............................................6

Full Size Hardware Drawings........................................ 6

Kit Contents....................................................................7

Motor Break-in............................................................... 8

Breaking In the Motor ............................................. 8

Wing Assembly ..............................................................9

Installing the Dihedral Brace................................... 9

Joining the Wing Halves........................................ 10

Wing Mounting ............................................................10

Aligning the Wing ................................................. 10

Installing the Blind Nuts........................................ 11

Mounting the Wing ................................................ 11

Horizontal Stabilizer .................................................... 11

Aligning the Horizontal Stabilizer ........................ 11

Mounting the Horizontal Stabilizer ....................... 12

Vertical Stabilizer .........................................................13

Aligning the Vertical Stabilizer ............................. 13

Mounting the Vertical Stabilizer............................ 13

Control Surface Hinging .............................................. 13

Hinging the Elevator.............................................. 13

Installing the Tail Wheel Assembly ......................14

Hinging the Rudder................................................ 14

Main Landing Gear ......................................................15

Installing the Landing Gear Wires ........................15

Installing the Nylon Straps .................................... 15

Motor Installation......................................................... 15

Installing the Motor ............................................... 15

Cowling Installation ..................................................... 16

Cutting Out the Cowling........................................ 16

Aligning the Cowling ............................................16

Servo Installation ......................................................... 17

Aligning the Servos ............................................... 17

Mounting the Servos.............................................. 17

Rudder Pushrod............................................................ 17

Installing the Rudder Control Horn....................... 18

Installing the Adjustable Servo Connector ...........18

Installing the Servo Horn....................................... 19

Adjusting the Rudder Pushrod .............................. 19

Elevator Pushrod .......................................................... 19

Installing the Elevator Control Horn .....................19

Installing the Servo Connector .............................. 20

Installing the Servo Horn....................................... 21

Adjusting the Elevator Pushrod.............................21

Windshield.................................................................... 21

Trimming the Windshield ......................................21

Aligning the Windshield........................................ 22

Installing the Windshield ....................................... 22

Final Assembly............................................................. 22

Installing the Receiver, Flight Battery & ESC ......22

Installing the Propeller........................................... 22

Installing the Wing Struts ...................................... 23

Applying the Decals .............................................. 23

Balancing......................................................................23

Balancing the Cub 400EP...................................... 23

Control Throws ............................................................ 24

Preflight Check.............................................................24

Safety............................................................................ 24

ABC's of Flying ...........................................................25

Basics of Flight ............................................................ 25

Glossary of Terms ........................................................ 27

Notes............................................................................. 28

Product Evaluation Sheet.............................................31

This instruction manual is designed to guide you through the entire final assembly process of your new Wattage

Cub 400EP ARF in the least amount of time possible. Along the way you will learn how to properly assemble your

new airplane and also learn many tips that will help you in the future. We have listed some of our recommenda-

tions below. Please read through them before going any further.

✔ Please read through each step before starting as-

sembly. You should find the layout very complete and

simple. Our goal is to guide you through assembly

without any of the headaches and hassles that you

might expect.

✔ There are check boxes next to each step. After you

complete a step, check off the box. This will help you

keep from losing your place.

✔ Cover your work table with brown paper or a soft

cloth, both to protect the table and to protect the indi-

vidual parts.

✔ Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to put

the small parts in after you open the accessory bags.

✔ We have included a glossary of terms beginning

on page # 27 . Check it out if you come across a term

that is unfamiliar to you.

✔ We're all excited to get a new airplane into the air,

but take your time. This will ensure you build a straight,

strong and great flying airplane.

✔ If you come across this symbol

☛

, it means that

this is an important point or an assembly hint.

If you should find a part missing or damaged, or have any questions about assembly, please

Wattage Customer Care

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley CA 92728

Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236 E-mail: service@globalhobby.net

The covering material used on the Cub 400EP ARF is a

heat shrink polyester material. Because of this, it is pos-

sible with heat and humidity changes that the covering on

your airplane may wrinkle or sag. This trait is inherent in

all types of heat shrink material. To remove the wrinkles

you will need to purchase, or borrow from a fellow mod-

eler, a heat iron. If you need to purchase one, the Global

Sealing Iron is recommended.

A NOTE ABOUT COVERING

Follow these simple steps to remove the wrinkles:

❑ 1) Plug in and turn on the sealing iron to the me-

dium temperature setting. Allow the iron to heat up for

approximately 5 - 7 minutes.

❑ 2) After the iron has reached temperature, lightly

apply the iron to the wrinkled section of the covering.

Move the iron slowly over the wrinkled section until the

P/N 360900

covering tightens and the wrinkles disappear. You will

notice that the color of the covering will darken when it is

heated. When the covering cools back down, it will re-

turn to its normal color.

☛

If the color layer smears from any of the seams the

temperature of the iron is too hot. Turn the temperature

dial down and wait about 5 minutes for the iron to adjust

to the lower temperature. You can remove any color

streaks using a paper towel soaked with a small quantity

of acetone.

Wattage guarantees this kit to be free from defects in

both material and workmanship, at the date of pur-

chase. This does not cover any component parts dam-

aged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall

Wattage's liability exceed the original cost of the

purchased kit.

In that Wattage has no control over the final assem-

bly or material used for final assembly, no liability

shall be assumed for any damage resulting from the

use by the user of the final user-assembled product.

By the act of using the final user-assembled product,

the user accepts all resulting liability.

Guarantee

The following section describes our recommendations to help you in deciding which types of accessories to purchase for

your new Wattage Cub 400EP ARF. We have tested all of these items with the airplane and found that these products will

offer the best in performance, reliability and economy.

OUR RECOMMENDATIONS

RADIO SYSTEM

The Cub 400EP will require a minimum 3 channel radio

control system with two micro servos. The radio system we

recommend using is the Hitec Focus 3 AM radio with 2 HS-81

Micro servos. This radio system includes two micro servos,

a three channel mini receiver, servo mounting hardware and

a setup guide.

If you want to purchase a radio system that will be more

upgradeable in the future, a four or more channel radio with

two micro servos and a mini or micro receiver will work

well. If you decide to go this way, our recommendation

would be to use the Hitec Flash 4X Glider FM Computer

radio with 2 HS-81 Micro servos. This is a very good radio system that offers the capability to grow as your experience

grows.

If you already have a standard radio system, you will need to purchase an after-market mini or micro receiver and two

micro servos. If you need to purchase these items we recommend the Hitec Micro 555 receiver (part # 759118) and two

Cirrus CS-21 Micro servos (part # 444227).

ELECTRONIC SPEED CONTROL

To operate the motor, we suggest using a proportional elec-

tronic speed control (ESC) that features battery eliminator

circuitry (BEC) and auto-cutoff. BEC allows you to elimi-

nate the receiver battery and uses the flight battery to control

both the motor and the radio system. Eliminating the receiver

battery provides a great weight savings which effectively in-

creases performance. The auto-cutoff feature turns off the

motor when the voltage in the battery drops too low to oper-

ate the radio system safely. This guarantees safe operation

throughout the entire flight. To obtain these features, we sug-

gest using the Wattage IC-380 ESC. You can also upgrade to the Wattage IC-14 ESC (part # 128484). This ESC is

smaller and lighter, and includes special tabs that hook directly to most Speed 400 motors. This means there isn't any

soldering required and you won't experience current loss because of poor connectors. If you decide not to use a propor-

tional electronic speed control, an electronic switch like the Hitec Motor Controller SP-1003 (part # 759850) is an

economical way to turn the motor on and off. This switch does not offer any proportional speed, only off or full power.

The flight battery you choose should be an 8 cell (9.6Volt)

Nickel Cadmium battery pack or an 8 cell Nickel Metal Hy-

dride battery pack. We recommend either the Wattage 8 cell

600Mah NiCd Battery or the Wattage 8 cell 800Mah

NiMhbattery (part # 128523). Both battery packs come

prewired with Tamiya connectors so they will be compatible

with the Wattage IC-380 ESC. The Nickel Metal Hydride

battery will give you about 25% more run-time; however, it

will not produce quite the amount of power as the Nickel

Cadmium battery.

FLIGHT BATTERY

P/N 128522

P/N 128471

Focus 3 AM

BATTERY CHARGER

P/N 350360

Because the flight battery powers both the motor and the ra-

dio system, we suggest using an Automatic Delta Peak

Charger such as the Promax Black Widow Peak Charger or

the Promax Activator Digital Peak Charger (part # 885650)

to charge the flight battery. It is vital to the Cub 400’s flying

performance that the flight battery be fully charged every

flight, so using a peak charger is very important.

MOTOR AND PROPELLER

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

❑ {1} Hitec Focus 3 AM Micro Radio System

❑ {1} Trinity AA Batteries - 8 pack # 837801

❑ {1} Wattage IC-380 30A ESC # 128471

❑ {1} Wattage 8C 600Mah NiCD Battery # 128522

❑ {1} Promax Black Widow Charger # 350360

❑ {1} Wattage Speed 400 Motor # 131338

❑ {1} Gunther Plastic Propeller # 239350

RECOMMENDED ITEMS

OPTIONAL ITEMS

❑ {1} Hitec Flash 4X FM Computer Radio System

❑ {1} Wattage 8C 800Mah NiMH Battery # 128523

❑ {2} Cirrus CS-21 Micro Servos # 444227

❑ {1} Multiplex Turbo 450 Motor # 239036

❑ {1} APC 6 x 3 Propeller # 608070

❑ {1} Wattage Propeller Adapter # 131335

❑ {1} Promax Activator Digital Peak Charger # 885650

We suggest using a 6 volt 380 - 480 size electric motor. For

standard flying the Wattage Speed 400 motor shown would

be a good choice. If you want to upgrade to a higher perfor-

mance motor, the Multiplex Turbo 450 (# 239036) would be

a good choice. The propeller you choose should be matched

to the motor you are using. Good choices would be the

push-on Gunther propeller or an APC 5 x 4, 6 x 3 or 4.75 x

4.75. If you use a propeller other than the Gunther, you will

need to also purchase a propeller adapter (# 131335).

P/N 131338 & 239350

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A # 887500

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy # 887560

❑ Pacer Formula 560 Canopy Glue # 339176

❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Excel Modeling Knife # 692801

❑ Adjustable Wrench

❑ Needle Nose Pliers

❑ Wire Cutters

❑ Electric or Hand Drill

❑ 1/16" Drill Bit

❑ 5/64" Drill Bit

❑ 1/8" Drill Bit

❑ Builder's Triangle

❑ Scissors

❑ Straight Edge Ruler

❑ Pen or Pencil

❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

❑ Masking Tape

❑ Trinity Break-In Drops # 840365

❑ Performance Plus Motor Spray # 340186

❑ Rubbing Alcohol

❑ Paper Towels - not pictured

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks # 864204

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups # 864205

FULL SIZE HARDWARE DRAWINGS

Shown below are full size drawings of the small hardware parts included with the Cub 400EP ARF. Use these drawings

to familiarize yourself with each part. Please refer back to this page to locate the proper parts when they are needed for a

particular assembly step. These drawings are especially helpful when trying to identify the different size screws or nuts

used in a particular step.

10 11

3mm x 25mm

Machine Screw

3mm x 14mm

Machine Screw

2mm x 12mm

Machine Screw

2mm x 10mm

Wood Screw

3mm Blind

Nut

3mm Flat

Washer

3mm Nylon

Insert Nut

2mm x 6mm

Wood Screw

Adjustable Servo

Connector

Assembly

We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for easier identification during assembly. Each photo below

represents the parts that are required in a main section of the assembly process. Before you begin assembly, group the

parts like we show. This will ensure that you have all of the parts before you begin assembly and it will also help you

become familiar with each part. The corresponding part number is listed first, then the quantity of that particular part,

along with a short description of the part. As you proceed through assembly, you will notice the same part number

listed next to a particular part necessary for that step. If you have any questions as to what that part might be, refer back

to this section.

KIT CONTENTS

AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES PUSHROD ASSEMBLIES

❑ {1} Fuselage w/Pushrod Housings

❑ {1} Right Wing Half

❑ {1} Left Wing Half

❑ {1} Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator & Hinges

❑ {1} Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder & Hinges

❑ {2} Wing Strut Assemblies (1 left & 1 right)

❑ {2} 1.5mm x 385mm Pushrod Wires w/Z-Bends

❑ {2} Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates

❑ {2} 2mm x 12mm Machine Screws

❑ {2} Adjustable Servo Connector Assemblies

LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLIES

❑ {2} Main Landing Gear Wires w/Wheels

❑ {1} Tail Wheel Assembly w/Wheel

❑ {2} Nylon Landing Gear Straps

❑ {4} 2mm x 10mm Wood Screws

MOTOR MOUNT ASSEMBLIES

❑ {2} Aluminum Motor Mount Clamps - Short

❑ {2} Aluminum Motor Mount Clamps - Tall

❑ {4} 3mm x 14mm Machine Screws

❑ {8} 3mm Flat Washers

❑ {4} 3mm Nylon Insert Nuts

WING ASSEMBLIES

❑ {1} Plywood Dihedral Brace (W-25)

❑ {2} 3mm x 25mm Machine Screws

❑ {2} 3mm Flat Washers

❑ {2} 3mm Blind Nuts

MISCELLANEOUS PARTS

❑ {1} Molded Plastic Cowling

❑ {1} Molded Clear Windshield

❑ {1} Decal Set - not pictured

❑ {3} 2mm x 6mm Wood Screws

❑ {4} 25mm x 30mm Hook & Loop Material

MOTOR BREAK-IN

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ Needle Nose Pliers

❑ Trinity Break-In Drops

❑ Performance Plus Motor Spray

❑ Paper Towels

BREAKING IN THE MOTOR

☛

Before beginning assembly, we recommend that you

first break in your motor. Taking the time to do this now

will do a couple of things. First, it will improve the per-

formance and life of the motor and, second, it will give

you a chance to test your radio system, ESC and flight

battery before installing them into the airplane.

❑ 1) To prevent radio interference caused by the elec-

tric motor, you need to solder three capacitors to the back

of the motor. One capacitor should be soldered between

each motor terminal and the motor can. The third ca-

pacitor should be soldered between the two motor

terminals. See figure # 1 below.

Photo # 1

❑ 6) Turn on the transmitter and plug the flight bat-

tery into the ESC. Move the throttle lever to the idle

position to turn off the motor.

❑ 7) With the motor turned off, test the operation of

the two servos.

Figure # 1

❑ 2) Lay the motor, flight battery, charger, radio sys-

tem and electronic speed control onto your work table.

❑ 3) Charge the flight battery using your peak charger,

following the instructions that were provided with the

charger. Install 8 AA batteries into the Focus 3 transmitter.

❑ 4) Plug the two servo leads and the ESC lead into

their proper slots in the receiver. Carefully solder the ESC

motor leads to the back of the motor. The mounting tab

with the red dot next to it is the positive tab.

❑ 5) Set the motor between the handles of a pair of

needle nose pliers and secure the motor to the handles

using a couple of small rubber bands. This will keep the

motor secure enough for the break-in procedure. See

photo # 1 below.

Photo # 2

❑ 9) Using a couple of paper towels, wipe off the

excess motor spray and oil.

❑ 10) Slowly turn on the motor. Position the throttle

lever to about 1/3 throttle and let the motor run. While

the motor is running, apply a light spray of motor spray

inside the motor openings once every minute, followed

by a small drop of Break-In Drops on each of the bush-

ings. Do this until the battery is fully discharged.

❑ 11) After the battery has discharged and the motor

has stopped, spray motor spray through the motor open-

ings until the fluid runs clear. Apply a couple of drops of

Break-In Drops to the bushings and wipe away all of the

excess using paper towels.

WING ASSEMBLY

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy

❑ Straight Edge Ruler

❑ Pen or Pencil

❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

❑ Masking Tape

❑ Rubbing Alcohol

❑ Paper Towels

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

INSTALLING THE DIHEDRAL BRACE

ITEMS REQUIRED

❑ {1} Right Wing Half

❑ {1} Left Wing Half

❑ {1} Plywood Dihedral Brace (W-25)

❑ 8) Carefully spray a couple of light sprays of Per-

formance Plus Motor Spray inside the motor openings and

apply a small drop of Trinity Break-In Drops onto each of

the two motor bushings. See photo # 2 below.

❑ 1) Look carefully at the surface of each root rib on

both wing halves. Notice how the excess covering mate-

rial overlaps onto them. Using a modeling knife, carefully

trim and remove the excess covering from both of the root

ribs, leaving about 1/16" of material overlapping so it does

not pull away later. See photo # 3 below.

Photo # 3

☛

Removing most of the covering from the two root ribs

will expose more of the wood. This will result in a stron-

ger joint when the wing halves are epoxied together later.

❑ 2) Using a straight edge ruler and a pen, locate and

mark the centerline of the plywood dihedral brace. Draw

one vertical line on each side of the brace, at this location.

See photo # 4 below.

Photo # 4

❑ 3) Test fit the plywood dihedral brace into the dihe-

dral brace box in each wing half. The brace should slide

into each wing half up to its centerline. If it does not,

remove the brace and use 220 grit sandpaper to lightly

sand the edges and tips of the brace. Repeat until you are

satisfied with the fit. See photo # 5 below.

Photo # 5

☛

The dihedral brace is cut in the shape of a "V". The

"V" shape should face the top surface of the wing when

the brace is installed.

❑ 4) Test fit both of the wing halves together with the

dihedral brace temporarily installed (without using glue).

❑ 5) Look carefully at the center section joint: the

wing halves should fit together tight with little or no gaps

in the joint. See photo # 6 below.

Photo # 6

❑ 6) If the center section joint is not tight, remove the

wing halves and the dihedral brace, and lightly sand the

edges and tips of the brace. Test fit the wing halves to-

gether with the dihedral brace installed again and repeat

until you are satisfied with the fit. Once you are satisfied

with the fit, remove the wing halves and the dihedral brace.

☛

It is important that the wing halves fit together prop-

erly. The better the fit, the stronger the center section

joint will be.

❑ 7) Following the instructions on the packaging, mix

a generous amount of Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy. Mix

the epoxy for about 1 minute. This will ensure that both

parts are thoroughly incorporated.

❑ 8) Working with only one wing half for now, apply

a thin layer of epoxy inside the dihedral brace box and to

only half of the dihedral brace. Make sure to cover the

top and bottom, as well as the sides, and use enough

epoxy to fill any gaps.

❑ 9) Slide the dihedral brace into the wing half up to

its centerline. Remove any excess epoxy before it dries

using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Allow the ep-

oxy to fully cure before proceeding.

❑ 10) Once the epoxy has fully cured, trial fit both

wing halves together again to double check that the wing

halves still fit together properly.

❑ 11) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 5 Minute

Epoxy. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the exposed half of

the dihedral brace, the inside of the second wing half, and

the entire surface of both root ribs. Make sure to use

enough epoxy to fill any gaps.

❑ 12) Slide the two wing halves together and care-

fully align them at both the leading and trailing edges.

Wipe away any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rub-

bing alcohol and use several pieces of masking tape to

JOINING THE WING HALVES

hold the two wing halves aligned until the epoxy fully

cures - about 1 hour.

❑ 13) Once the epoxy has fully cured, double-check

the center section joint. If any gaps are present, mix a

small amount of Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy and care-

fully fill any remaining gaps. Remove any excess epoxy

using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and allow the

epoxy to fully cure.

WING MOUNTING

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Electric or Hand Drill

❑ 1/8" Drill Bit

❑ Straight Edge Ruler

❑ Pen or Pencil

❑ Masking Tape

ALIGNING THE WING

ITEMS REQUIRED

❑ {1} Fuselage w/Pushrod Housings

❑ {2} 3mm x 25mm Machine Screws

❑ {2} 3mm Flat Washers

❑ {2} 3mm Nylon Insert Nuts

❑ 1) Using a ruler and a pen, locate the centerline of

the fuselage, at the back edge of the wing saddle, and

draw a mark. See photo # 7 below.

Photo # 7

❑ 2) Set the fuselage on your work table and place

the wing into the wing saddle. Align the two hardwood

dowels in the leading edge of the wing with the two pre-

drilled holes in the fuselage's forward bulkhead.

❑ 3) Carefully slide the wing forward, making sure

that the two hardwood dowels fully engage the two pre-

drilled holes in the forward bulkhead.

❑ 4) The joint where the two wing halves were glued

together is the centerline of the wing. Align the center-

line of the wing with the centerline you drew on the top of

the fuselage.

❑ 5) While holding the wing in alignment, use a

couple of pieces of masking tape to hold the wing securely

to the fuselage.

❑ 6) Check that the wing is square to the fuselage.

To do this use a ruler and carefully measure from the

trailing edge of each wing tip to the back edge of the

fuselage. Both of these measurements should be the

same. See figure # 2 below.

Figure # 2

☛

If the two measurements are not the same, carefully

lift the masking tape and adjust the back of the wing until

they are. When you are satisfied with the alignment, reat-

tach the masking tape to hold the wing securely in place.

INSTALLING THE BLIND NUTS

❑ 7) Using a ruler and a pen, measure 5/16" in front

of the trailing edge of the wing and draw two marks, one

on each side of the centerline. Now measure 3/4" out

from each side of the centerline and draw two marks. See

photo # 8 below.

Photo # 8

❑ 8) Using a drill with a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill

two holes into the wing and down through the plywood

wing hold down block inside the fuselage.

☛

Angle the drill bit back so that you drill the holes

perpendicular to the top of the wing.

❑ 9) Remove the wing and install two 3mm blind nuts

into the bottom of the mounting plate. Use a pair of needle

nose pliers to squeeze the blind nuts up into place.

☛

A balsa filler block has been preinstalled onto the bot-

tom of the plywood plate to make it easier to install the

blind nuts.

❑ 10) After the blind nuts are fully seated, carefully

apply a thin layer of Kwik Bond Thin C/A around the

bottom of each blind nut to lock them into place. Be care-

ful not to get any C/A into the threads. Allow the C/A to

fully cure before proceeding.

MOUNTING THE WING

❑ 11) Place the wing back into the wing saddle and

bolt it into place using two 3mm x 25mm machine screws

and two 3mm flat washers. Tighten the screws firmly

using a # 1 phillips screwdriver. See photo # 9 below.

Photo # 9

HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ Builder’s Triangle

❑ Straight Edge Ruler

❑ Pen or Pencil

❑ Masking Tape

❑ Rubbing Alcohol

❑ Paper Towels

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

ITEMS REQUIRED

❑ {1} Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator & Hinges

❑ 1) Remove the elevator and hinges from the hori-

zontal stabilizer and set them aside for now. Remove the

wing from the fuselage and set it aside, also.

❑ 2) Using a modeling knife, carefully remove the

covering from over the horizontal stabilizer mounting slot

in the back of the fuselage. The slot is 3-1/8" long and

1/8" tall, and is located 1/4" below the top of the fuselage.

❑ 3) Using a ruler and a pen, locate the centerline of

the horizontal stabilizer, at the trailing edge, and

ALIGNING THE

HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

A=A-1

place a mark. Using a builder's triangle, extend this mark

from front to back across the top of the stabilizer. See

photo # 10 below.

Photo # 10

❑ 4) Mount the wing to the fuselage and slide the sta-

bilizer into the stabilizer mounting slot. Push the stabilizer

forward until the trailing edge of the stabilizer is even

with the back edge of the fuselage.

❑ 5) Align the centerline mark on the trailing edge of

the stabilizer with the center of the back edge of the fuse-

lage. When that is aligned, hold the trailing edge of the

stabilizer in that position using a piece of masking tape.

❑ 6) With the stabilizer in place, look carefully from

the front of the fuselage at both the wing and the stabi-

lizer. When aligned properly, the stabilizer should be level

with the wing. If it is not level, use 220 grit sandpaper

with a sanding block and sand down the higher stabilizer

mounting side until the correct alignment is achieved. See

figure # 3 below.

Figure # 3

❑ 7) Now check to make sure that the tips of the sta-

bilizer are equal distances from the tips of the wing. Use

a ruler and measure from one wing tip to the

stabilizer tip on the same side. Do this for both sides.

When the stabilizer is aligned properly, both of these mea-

surements should be the same. See figure # 4 below.

Figure # 4

❑ 8) When you are satisfied with the alignment, hold

the stabilizer firmly in place using a couple of pieces of

masking tape. Do not glue it into place yet!

❑ 9) With the stabilizer held firmly in place, use a pen

to draw lines onto the top and bottom of the stabilizer

where it and the fuselage sides meet. Do this on both the

right and left sides.

❑ 10) Remove the stabilizer from the fuselage. Us-

ing the lines you drew as a guide, carefully cut away and

remove the covering from between them with a modeling

knife. See photo # 11 below.

MOUNTING THE

HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

Photo # 11

☛

When cutting through the covering to remove it, cut

with only enough pressure to cut through only the cover-

ing itself. Cutting into the balsa will weaken the stabilizer.

❑ 11) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 5 Minute

Epoxy. Apply a thin layer to the mounting area on the top

and bottom of the stabilizer and to the top and bottom of

the stabilizer mounting sides in the fuselage.

❑ 12) Slide the stabilizer back into place and realign

it, double checking all of your measurements once more.

See photo # 12 below.

❑ 13) When you are satisfied with the alignment, hold

the stabilizer in place using several pieces of masking

tape and remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel

and rubbing alcohol before it cures. Allow the epoxy to

fully cure before proceeding.

Photo # 12

B=B-1

C=C-1

VERTICAL STABILIZER

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy

❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ Builder’s Triangle

❑ Straight Edge Ruler

❑ Pen or Pencil

❑ Masking Tape

❑ Rubbing Alcohol

❑ Paper Towels

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

ITEMS REQUIRED

❑ {1} Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder & Hinges

ALIGNING THE

VERTICAL STABILIZER

❑ 1) Remove the rudder and hinges from the vertical

stabilizer and set them aside for now.

❑ 2) Using a modeling knife, carefully remove the

covering from over the vertical stabilizer mounting slot

in the top of the fuselage. The slot is 3-1/8" long and

1/8" wide.

❑ 3) Slide the stabilizer into the mounting slot in the

fuselage. Push the stabilizer forward until the trailing edge

of the stabilizer is even with the back edge of the horizon-

tal stabilizer.

❑ 4) While holding the vertical stabilizer firmly in

place, use a pen to draw a line on each side of it where it

meets the top of the fuselage.

❑ 5) Remove the stabilizer. Using a modeling knife,

carefully cut away and remove the covering from below

the lines you drew and from the bottom edge of the sta-

bilizer, also. See photo # 13 below.

Photo # 13

☛

When cutting through the covering to remove it, cut

with only enough pressure to cut through only the cover-

ing itself. Cutting into the balsa will weaken the structure.

❑ 6) Slide the vertical stabilizer back into place and

realign it. Using a builder's triangle, check to ensure that

the vertical stabilizer is aligned 90º to the horizontal sta-

bilizer. See figure # 5 below.

Figure # 5

❑ 7) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 5 Minute

Epoxy. Apply a thin layer to the mounting slot in the top

of the fuselage and to the sides and bottom of the vertical

stabilizer mounting area.

❑ 8) Slide the stabilizer back into place and realign it,

double checking all of your measurements. Hold the sta-

bilizer in place using several pieces of masking tape and

remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rub-

bing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to fully cure before

proceeding.

MOUNTING THE

VERTICAL STABILIZER

CONTROL SURFACE HINGING

HINGING THE ELEVATOR

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy

❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

❑ Rubbing Alcohol

❑ Paper Towels

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

ITEMS REQUIRED

❑ {1} Tail Wheel Assembly

❑ 1) Locate the four precut hinge slots in the trailing

edge of the horizontal stabilizer and the leading edge of

the elevator.

❑ 2) Using a modeling knife, carefully remove any

excess covering material from over each of the slots.

❑ 3) Test fit the C/A hinges into the hinge slots in the

elevator. Each hinge should be inserted far enough into

the slots so that the centerline of the hinges are flush with

the leading edge. If the hinges cannot be inserted deeply

enough, use a modeling knife to carefully cut the hinge

slots deeper.

❑ 4) With each of the hinges centered, apply 3-4 drops

of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the joint where the hinges and

the elevator meet. Allow a few seconds between drops

for the C/A to wick into the hinges, then turn the elevator

over and repeat this procedure on the other side. Let the

C/A dry for about 10 minutes before proceeding. See

photo # 14 below.

❑ 5) Slide the elevator and its hinges into the precut

hinge slots in the trailing edge of the stabilizer. Adjust

the elevator so that the tips of the elevator are even with

the tips of the stabilizer.

❑ 6) While holding the elevator tight against the sta-

bilizer, rotate the elevator down about 45º. Apply 3-4

drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the exposed area of each

hinge. Turn the fuselage over and repeat for the other

side of the hinges. Allow the C/A to dry for about 10

minutes. Once the C/A dries, the elevator may be stiff

and difficult to move. This is normal. Gently move it up

and down about five to ten times to free it up.

Photo # 14

❑ 7) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering

from over the predrilled hole in the leading edge of the

rudder. The hole is 1/16" in diameter and is located 1/2"

up from the bottom of the rudder.

❑ 8) Using a modeling knife, carefully cut a shallow

groove in the leading edge from the base of the hole down

to the bottom of the rudder. See figure # 6 below.

INSTALLING THE

TAIL WHEEL ASSEMBLY

Figure # 6

❑ 9) Test fit the tail wheel wire into the hole and

groove. When properly aligned, the wire should rest

within the groove and the outer surface of the wire should

be flush with the leading edge of the rudder.

❑ 10) When satisfied with the fit, remove the tail wheel

wire. Using 220 grit sandpaper, carefully roughen the

gluing surface of the wire.

❑ 11) Mix a small quantity of Kwik Bond 5 Minute

Epoxy. Pack epoxy into the hole and the groove and

push the tail wheel wire firmly into place. Remove any

excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol.

Allow the epoxy to fully cure before proceeding. See

photo # 15 below.

Photo # 15

HINGING THE RUDDER

❑ 12) Using a modeling knife, carefully remove the

covering from over the precut notch in the leading edge

of the rudder. The notch is located 1-1/4" up from the

bottom of the rudder. See photo # 16 below.

❑ 13) Locate the two precut hinge slots in the trailing

edge of the vertical stabilizer and the leading edge of the

rudder.

❑ 14) Using a modeling knife, carefully remove any

excess covering material from over each of the slots.

❑ 15) Test fit the C/A hinges into the hinge slots in

the rudder. Each hinge should be inserted far enough into

the slots so that the centerline of the hinges are flush with

the leading edge. If the hinges cannot be inserted deeply

enough, use a modeling knife to carefully cut the hinge

slots deeper.

Photo # 16

❑ 16) With each of the hinges centered, apply 3-4

drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the joint where the hinges

and the rudder meet. Allow a few seconds between drops

for the C/A to wick into the hinges, then turn the rudder

over and repeat this procedure on the other side. Let the

C/A dry for about 10 minutes before proceeding.

❑ 17) Slide the rudder and its hinges into the precut

hinge slots in the trailing edge of the vertical stabilizer.

Adjust the rudder so that the rudder counter-balance does

not touch the top of the vertical stabilizer.

❑ 18) While holding the rudder tight against the sta-

bilizer, rotate the rudder to the right about 45º. Apply 3-4

drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the exposed area of each

hinge. Turn the fuselage over and repeat for the other

side of the hinges. Allow the C/A to dry for about 10

minutes. Once the C/A has dried, the rudder may be stiff

and difficult to move. This is normal. Gently move it

back and forth about five to ten times to free it up.

MAIN LANDING GEAR

INSTALLING THE LANDING GEAR WIRES

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ Electric or Hand Drill

❑ 1/16" Drill Bit

❑ Straight Edge Ruler

❑ Pen or Pencil

ITEMS REQUIRED

❑ {2} Main Landing Gear Wires w/Wheels

❑ {2} Nylon Landing Gear Straps

❑ {4} 2mm x 10mm Wood Screws

❑ 1) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering

from over the precut landing gear slot in the bottom of the

fuselage. The slot is located 3-1/8" behind the front edge

of the firewall.

❑ 2) Insert the 90º bend in each landing gear wire into

the two predrilled holes in the middle of the precut slot.

Push both wires down firmly. See photo # 17 below.

Photo # 17

❑ 3) The two landing gear wires are held in place us-

ing two nylon landing gear straps and four 2mm x 10mm

wood screws. Each strap should be placed 1/2" in from

the fuselage sides. See photo # 18 below.

Photo # 18

❑ 4) Using the landing gear straps as a guide, use a

pen and mark the locations of the four pilot holes onto the

fuselage.

❑ 5) Remove the nylon straps. Using a drill with a

1/16" drill bit, drill four pilot holes through the fuselage

at the marks you drew.

❑ 6) Install the nylon landing gear straps using four

2mm x 10mm wood screws. Tighten the screws firmly

using a # 1 phillips screwdriver.

INSTALLING THE NYLON STRAPS

MOTOR INSTALLATION

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Adjustable Wrench

❑ Electric or Hand Drill

❑ 1/8" Drill Bit

❑ Straight Edge Ruler

❑ Pen or Pencil

ITEMS REQUIRED

❑ {2} Aluminum Motor Mount Clamps - Short

❑ {2} Aluminum Motor Mount Clamps - Tall

❑ {4} 3mm x 14mm Machine Screws

❑ {8} 3mm Flat Washers

❑ {4} 3mm Nylon Insert Nuts

INSTALLING THE MOTOR

☛

If you haven’t already done so, now would be a good

time to solder your ESC to the motor and break in the

motor using our suggested guidelines on page # 8. It is

much easier to do this before installing the motor into the

airplane. Do not forget to solder three capacitors into place

on the motor. Not doing this will cause excessive radio

interference that will cause your airplane to crash!

❑ 1) Place the two short motor clamps onto the tops

of the two hardwood mounting rails. The center of the

forward clamp should be 5/16" behind the front of the

rails and the center of the rear clamp should be 1" behind

the front of the rails. See photo # 19 below.

Photo # 19

❑ 2) While holding each clamp in place (push down

on them firmly so they fit flush against the tops of the

rails), use a pen and mark the locations of the four mount-

ing holes onto the tops of the hardwood rails.

❑ 3) Remove the two motor clamps. Using a drill with

a 1/8" drill bit, drill four holes through the hardwood rails

at the four marks you drew.

❑ 4) Set the two short motor clamps back into place,

aligning the mounting holes in the clamps with the holes

you drilled in the hardwood rails.

❑ 5) Feed your ESC through the precut hole in the

firewall and set the motor into the motor clamps. So the

cowl will line up properly when it is installed later, the

tip of the motor shaft should be 3-3/8" in front of the

firewall.

☛

The measurement given above is if you are using a

propeller that is a friction fit onto the motor shaft (like the

Gunther brand propellers). If you are using a propeller

that requires a propeller adapter you will have to move

the motor farther back so that the cowl will line up.

❑ 6) Secure the motor into place using the two tall

motor clamps, four 3mm x 14mm machine screws, eight

3mm flat washers and four 3mm nylon insert nuts. Tighten

the screws and nuts firmly. See figure # 20 below.

Photo # 20

COWLING INSTALLATION

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ Electric or Hand Drill

❑ 1/16" Drill Bit

❑ Scissors

❑ Straight Edge Ruler

❑ Pen or Pencil

❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

❑ Masking Tape

ITEMS REQUIRED

❑ {1} Molded Plastic Cowling

❑ {3} 2mm x 6mm Wood Screws

CUTTING OUT THE COWLING

❑ 1) Using a pair of scissors, carefully cut out the back

of the cowling along the molded scribe line. Using 220

grit sandpaper with a sanding block, carefully sand the

back edge of the cowling smooth and straight.

❑ 2) Using a modeling knife, cut out the molded circle

and the two molded squares in the front of the cowling.

Carefully cut out a 3/4" diameter air-intake hole in the

lower, front portion of the cowl. See photo # 21 below.

Photo # 21

☛

It’s important that you cut an air-intake hole in the

front of the cowling. This will allow air to pass through

the fuselage, cooling the battery and ESC.

ALIGNING THE COWLING

❑ 3) Slide the cowling into place. To properly align

the cowling, the back edge of the cowling should be about

1/8" past the front of the firewall and the front of the cowl-

ing should be centered around the motor shaft.

❑ 4) When satisfied with the alignment, use a couple

of pieces of masking tape to hold the cowling firmly in

place.

❑ 5) Using a pen, carefully mark the locations of the

three cowl mounting screws onto the cowling. One screw

is located on the top, centerline of the cowl. The other

two are located (one on each side) even with the hard-

wood motor mount beams. See photo # 22 below.

Photo # 22

☛

Each of the holes should be located 1/16" in front of

the back edge of the cowling. This will position the holes

over the edge of the plywood firewall.

❑ 6) Using a drill with a 1/16" drill bit, drill three holes

through the cowling and into the edge of the firewall at

the marks you drew.

❑ 7) Remove the cowling. Apply a couple of drops

of Kwik Bond Thin C/A into each of the three mounting

holes. Allow the C/A to dry for about 10 minutes.

☛

The C/A will strengthen the wood surrounding the

cowl mounting holes, giving the screws more holding

strength.

❑ 8) Slide the cowling back into place and realign it.

Secure the cowling into place using three 2mm x 6mm

wood screws. Tighten the screws firmly using a # 1 phil-

lips screwdriver.

SERVO INSTALLATION

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Electric or Hand Drill

❑ 1/16" Drill Bit

ALIGNING THE SERVOS

❑ 1) Locate the two servos you intend to use for the

elevator and rudder controls.

❑ 2) Carefully install the rubber grommets and brass

collets onto each of the servo mounting lugs. For proper

vibration reduction, the brass collets should be inserted

into the rubber grommets with the flanges facing the bot-

tom of the servo mounting lugs. See figure # 7 at top

right.

Figure # 7

❑ 3) Position the servos into the preinstalled servo

tray, making sure that you run the servo wires below the

tray and toward the front of the fuselage. Pay close atten-

tion to the positions of the servo output shafts. They should

both face the front of the fuselage. See photo # 23 below.

Photo # 23

MOUNTING THE SERVOS

❑ 4) Using a drill with a 1/16" drill bit, drill pilot

holes through the servo tray for the servo mounting

screws included with your radio system.

☛

Drilling pilot holes through the servo tray will make

it much easier to install the screws.

❑ 5) Using a # 1 phillips screwdriver, install and

tighten the mounting screws to hold the servos in place.

RUDDER PUSHROD

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A

❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ Electric or Hand Drill

❑ 5/64" Drill Bit

❑ Straight Edge Ruler

❑ Masking Tape

ITEMS REQUIRED

❑ {1} 1.5mm x 385mm Pushrod Wire w/Z-Bend

❑ {1} Nylon Control Horn w/Backplate

❑ {2} 2mm x 12mm Machine Screws

❑ {1} Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly

INSTALLING THE

RUDDER CONTROL HORN

❑ 1) Insert the Z-bend in the 1.5mm x 385mm push-

rod wire, into the third hole out from the base of the nylon

control horn. Orientate the pushrod wire so that the longer

portion of the wire is on the left side of the control horn.

See photo # 24 below.

Photo # 24

❑ 2) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering

from over the rudder pushrod exit hole in the back of the

fuselage. The hole is located on the left side of the fuse-

lage, 1-3/4" in front of the rudder hinge line and 5/8" down

from the bottom of the horizontal stabilizer.

❑ 3) Carefully insert the plain end of the rudder push-

rod wire (with the control horn still attached) into the hole

in the left side of the fuselage. Slide the wire in until the

control horn lines up with the rudder hinge line.

❑ 4) To properly align the control horn, it should be

perpendicular to the rudder hinge line and its centerline

should be 5/8" up from the bottom of the rudder, at the

hinge line. The clevis attachment holes should be located

directly over the hinge line. See figure # 8 below.

Figure # 8

❑ 5) When satisfied with the alignment, use a drill with

a 5/64" drill bit and the control horn as a guide, and drill the

two mounting holes through the rudder.

❑ 6) Slide the control horn back into place and re-

align it. Push two 2mm x 12mm machine screws into

the base of the control horn and through the rudder.

❑ 7) Place the nylon backplate onto the machine

screws, aligning the two holes in the backplate with the

two screws. Using a # 1 phillips screwdriver, evenly

Photo # 25

❑ 8) Locate one plastic "4-point" servo horn that came

with your servo. One of the arms should have at least

four holes in it.

❑ 9) Using a pair of wire cutters, carefully remove all

of the arms except one with four holes in it.

❑ 10) Using a drill with a 5/64" drill bit, enlarge the

third hole out from the center of the arm.

❑ 11) Install one adjustable servo connector through

the hole that you enlarged. When you thread on the nut,

don't tighten it completely. You don't want the connector

loose, but you do want it to be able to rotate without bind-

ing too much. See photo # 26 below.

Photo # 26

☛

If your servo arm is thinner than standard sized arms,

we recommend that you install a thin washer between the

servo arm and the adjustable servo connector nut. This

will prevent slop between the arm and the connector.

❑ 12) Apply a couple of small drops of Kwik Bond

Thin C/A to the connector nut and allow the C/A to fully

dry. The C/A will lock the nut in place and will prevent

the connector from loosening during flight.

tighten both machine screws to draw the backplate into

place. Be careful not to overtighten the screws. You don't

want to crush the wood. See photo # 25 below.

INSTALLING THE

ADJUSTABLE SERVO CONNECTOR

☛

Before starting the next few steps, please make sure

you have read and completely understood how your radio

control system and ESC operate.

❑ 13) Per your radio system guide and ESC instruc-

tions, plug the flight battery into the ESC, then plug the

ESC and the rudder servo lead into their proper slots in

the receiver. Turn on the radio system.

❑ 14) Check to make sure the rudder control stick and

the rudder trim lever are centered.

❑ 15) Slide the adjustable servo connector/servo horn

assembly over the end of the rudder pushrod wire and

align the servo horn with the servo output shaft.

❑ 16) Attach the servo horn to the output shaft, mak-

ing sure that the servo horn is centered and points toward

the fuselage side. See photo # 27 below.

INSTALLING THE SERVO HORN

Photo # 27

❑ 17) Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped

between the vertical stabilizer and the rudder, to hold the

rudder centered.

❑ 18) With the rudder servo horn centered, use a # 1

phillips screwdriver and tighten the machine screw in the

adjustable servo connector.

❑ 19) Using a # 0 phillips screwdriver, install and

tighten the servo arm retaining screw, provided with your

servo, to secure the servo horn into place.

❑ 20) Remove the masking tape from the rudder and

double check that the rudder and the rudder servo are still

centered.

❑ 21) With your radio system plugged in and turned

on, check the direction the rudder control surface moves

and the amount of deflection. To do this push right on the

rudder control stick. The rudder should move right. If it

does not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmit-

ter to change the direction. (Refer to your radio guide for

more information on this function.)

ADJUSTING THE RUDDER PUSHROD

❑ 22) Push right completely on the rudder control

stick. While holding the control stick fully right, use a

ruler and measure the amount the trailing edge of the rud-

der moves right. This measurement should be 1" and

should be taken at the widest point of the rudder. See

figure # 9 below.

Figure # 9

❑ 23) If the control surface deflection is more or less

than 1" it must be changed. If your radio is equipped

with End Point Adjustments (EPA), make those adjust-

ments using the transmitter. (Refer to your radio guide

for further details.) If your radio does not have this fea-

ture, you can still make the adjustments to the pushrod

manually.

❑ 24) If the rudder is moving more than 1", move the

adjustable servo connector in one hole toward the center

of the servo horn to decrease the control deflection. If the

rudder is moving less than 1", move the Z-bend one hole

closer to the base of the control horn to increase the con-

trol deflection. When adjusted properly, the rudder should

move 1" both right and left.

ELEVATOR PUSHROD

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A

❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ Electric or Hand Drill

❑ 5/64" Drill Bit

❑ Straight Edge Ruler

❑ Masking Tape

ITEMS REQUIRED

❑ {1} 1.5mm x 385mm Pushrod Wire w/Z-Bend

❑ {1} Nylon Control Horn w/Backplate

❑ {2} 2mm x 12mm Machine Screws

❑ {1} Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly

❑ 1) Insert the Z-bend in the 1.5mm x 385mm push-

rod wire into the third hole out from the base of the nylon

INSTALLING THE

ELEVATOR CONTROL HORN

Photo # 28

❑ 2) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering

from over the elevator pushrod exit hole in the back of

the fuselage. The hole is located on the right side of the

fuselage, 1-3/4" in front of the rudder hinge line and 5/8"

down from the bottom of the horizontal stabilizer.

❑ 3) Carefully insert the plain end of the elevator push-

rod wire (with the control horn still attached) into the hole

in the right side of the fuselage. Slide the wire in until the

control horn lines up with the elevator hinge line.

❑ 4) To properly align the control horn, it should be

perpendicular to the elevator hinge line and its centerline

should be 3/4" out from the side of the fuselage, at the

hinge line. The clevis attachment holes should be located

directly over the hinge line. See figure # 10 below.

Figure # 10

☛

You may need to bend the elevator pushrod wire out

slightly (where it exits the fuselage side). This will make

it easier to line up the control horn and will prevent the

pushrod from binding.

❑ 5) When satisfied with the alignment, use a drill with

a 5/64" drill bit and the control horn as a guide, and drill the

two mounting holes through the elevator.

❑ 6) Slide the control horn back into place and re-

align it. Push two 2mm x 12mm machine screws into

the base of the control horn and through the elevator.

❑ 7) Place the nylon backplate onto the machine

screws, aligning the two holes in the backplate with the

Photo # 29

INSTALLING THE SERVO CONNECTOR

❑ 8) Locate one plastic "4-point" servo horn that came

with your servo. One of the arms should have at least

four holes in it.

❑ 9) Using a pair of wire cutters, carefully remove all

of the arms except the one with four holes in it.

❑ 10) Using a drill with a 5/64" drill bit, enlarge the

third hole out from the center of the arm.

❑ 11) Install one adjustable servo connector through

the hole that you enlarged. When you thread on the nut,

don't tighten it completely. You don't want the connector

loose, but you do want it to be able to rotate without bind-

ing too much. See photo # 30 below.

Photo # 30

☛

If your servo arm is thinner than the standard sized

arms, we recommend that you install a thin washer be-

tween the servo arm and the servo connector nut. This

will prevent slop between the arm and the connector.

❑ 12) Apply a couple of drops of Kwik Bond Thin

C/A to the connector nut and allow the C/A to fully dry.

The C/A will lock the nut in place and will prevent the

connector from loosening during flight.

control horn. Orientate the pushrod wire so that the longer

portion of the wire is on the right side of the control horn.

See photo # 28 below.

two screws. Using a # 1 phillips screwdriver, evenly

tighten both machine screws to draw the backplate into

place. Be careful not to overtighten the screws. You

don't want to crush the wood. See photo # 29 below.

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WattAge Cub 400EP Instructions For Final Assembly

Brand: WattAge

Model: Cub 400EP

Category: Toys & accessories

Type: Instructions For Final Assembly

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WattAge Cub 400EP Instructions For Final Assembly

WattAge Cub 400EP Instructions For Final Assembly

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