WattAge Egret Instructions For Assembly

Brand: WattAge

Model: Egret

Category: Toys & accessories

Type: Instructions For Assembly

INSTRUCTIONS FOR FINAL ASSEMBLY

The Wattage Egret ARF is distributed exclusively by Global Hobby Distributors

18480 Bandilier Circle, Fountain Valley, CA 92728

Wattage guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship, at the date of purchase. This

does not cover any component parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Wattage's liability

exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.

In that Wattage has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be

assumed for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using

the final user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgeable help

with assembly and during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area

whose membership includes qualified instructors. We also recommend that you contact the AMA at the address below.

They will be able to help you locate a flying field in your area.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie IN 47302-9252

(800) 435-9262

www.modelaircraft.org

TABLE OF CONTENTS

SAFETY WARNING

This R/C airplane is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only

in open areas and preferably at a dedicated R/C flying site. We suggest having a qualified instructor carefully

inspect your airplane before its first flight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this

airplane, your radio control system and electronic speed control.

Safety Warning ...................................................... 2

Introduction ........................................................... 3

Our Recommendations .......................................... 4

Additional Items Required .................................... 5

Tools and Supplies Required ................................. 5

Kit Contents........................................................... 6

Full Size Hardware Drawings ............................... 7

Motor Break-In...................................................... 8

Breaking In the Motor..................................... 8

A Note About Covering ........................................ 9

Wing Assembly ..................................................... 9

Installing the Wing Panels .............................. 9

Upper Flying Wires ............................................. 10

Installing the Upper Flying Wires ................ 10

Main Landing Gear ..............................................11

Installing the Aluminum Tubes .....................11

Installing the Wheels .................................... 12

Fuselage Pod........................................................ 12

Installing the Aluminum Tubes .................... 12

Installing the Spreader Bar ........................... 12

Installing the Fuselage Pod ........................... 13

Lower Flying Wires............................................. 14

Installing the Aluminum Bracket.................. 14

Installing the Lower Flying Wires ................ 14

Adjusting the Flying Wires ........................... 15

Nose Gear ............................................................ 15

Installing the Nose Gear Wire....................... 15

Installing the Nose Gear Wheel .................... 16

Stabilizer Installation........................................... 16

Aligning the Vertical Stabilizer .................... 16

Mounting the Vertical Stabilizer ................... 17

Mounting the Sub-Fin................................... 17

Mounting the Tail Boom............................... 18

Control Surface Hinging ......................................18

Hinging the Elevator ......................................18

Hinging the Rudder........................................19

Servo Installation..................................................19

Installing the Servos.......................................19

Elevator Pushrod ..................................................20

Installing the Control Horn ............................20

Installing the Pushrod ....................................21

Adjusting the Elevator Pushrod .....................22

Rudder Pushrod ....................................................22

Installing the Control Horn ............................22

Installing the Pushrod ....................................23

Adjusting the Rudder Pushrod.......................24

Cowl Installation ..................................................24

Aligning the Cowling.....................................24

Mounting the Cowling ...................................25

Mounting the Propeller ..................................25

Final Assembly.....................................................25

Installing the Battery and Receiver................25

Installing the ESC ..........................................25

Balancing ..............................................................26

Balancing the Egret........................................26

Control Throws.....................................................26

Preflight Check.....................................................26

Safety ....................................................................27

ABC's of Flying....................................................28

Basics of Flight.....................................................28

Glossary of Terms.................................................30

Motor Maintenance ..............................................32

Notes.....................................................................33

Product Evaluation Sheet .....................................35

INTRODUCTION

Thank you for choosing the Wattage Egret ARF and welcome to the exciting world of electric-powered R/C

airplanes! Whether you have built and flown other electric R/C airplanes in the past, or if this is your first, you will

appreciate the high quality, ease of assembly and excellent flight characteristics of the Egret ARF.

The Egret is an electric-powered, two channel trainer utilizing balsa and light-ply built up construction

techniques. The wing design uses a flat bottom airfoil that stays very stable throughout the entire flight enve-

lope and also produces good lift. The fuselage pod is built using balsa and light-ply with a composite tail boom.

The empennage is built using lightweight balsa. This adds up to an airplane that is light, able to climb out with

authority, and easy to fly.

When you open the box, you will notice that you won't have much left to do or to purchase to finish your

new airplane. Included is a prewired 380 size motor and gear box already preinstalled in the fuselage. Flying

wires, pushrods, wheels, control horns, propeller and other hardware are all included in the kit. The airframe is

completely built and covered by master craftsmen, who take their time to ensure that every part is straight and

properly glued.

We hope you enjoy your new Wattage Egret ARF as much as we have enjoyed designing and building it for

you. If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to contact us. We have also included a product

survey in the back of this manual. Please take the time to fill it out and send it to us. We would enjoy hearing

any comments or suggestions you may have.

This instruction manual is designed to guide you through the entire final assembly process of your new

Wattage Egret ARF in the least amount of time possible. Along the way you'll learn how to properly

assemble your new airplane and also learn many tips that will help you in the future. We have listed some

of our recommendations below. Please read through them before going any further.

✔ Please read through each step before starting

assembly. You should find the layout very com-

plete and simple. Our goal is to guide you through

assembly without any of the headaches and hassles

you might expect.

✔ There are check boxes next to each step. After

you complete a step, check off the box. This will

help you keep from losing your place.

✔ Cover your work table with brown paper or a

soft cloth, both to protect the table and to protect

the individual parts.

✔ Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to

put the small parts in after you open the accessory

bags.

✔ We have included a glossary of terms begin-

ning on page # 30 . Check it out if you come across

a term that is unfamiliar to you.

✔ We're all excited to get a new airplane in the

air, but take your time. This will ensure you build

a straight, strong and great flying airplane.

✔ If you come across this symbol

☛

, it means

that this is an important point or an assembly hint.

If you should find a part missing or damaged, or have any questions about assembly, please contact us at the

address below:

Wattage Customer Care

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley CA 92728

Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236 E-mail: service@globalhobby.net

The following section describes our recommendations to help you in deciding which types of accessories to

purchase for your new Wattage Egret ARF. We have tested all of these items with the airplane and found that

these products will offer the best in performance, reliability and economy.

RADIO SYSTEM

MOTOR CONTROLLER

OUR RECOMMENDATIONS

Focus 3 AM

P/N 128471

To operate the motor, we highly suggest using a propor-

tional electronic speed control (ESC) that features

battery eliminator circuitry (BEC) and auto-cutoff. BEC

allows you to eliminate the receiver battery and uses the

flight battery to control both the motor and the radio

system. Eliminating the receiver battery provides a great

weight savings which effectively increases performance.

The auto-cutoff feature turns off the motor when the volt-

age in the battery drops too low to operate the radio

system safely. This guarantees safe operation throughout the entire flight. To obtain these features, we suggest

using the Wattage IC-380 30A ESC. If you decide not to use a proportional electronic speed control, an elec-

tronic switch like the Hitec Motor Controller SP-1003 (part # 759850) is an economical way to turn the motor

on and off. This switch does not offer any proportional speed, only off or full power.

The Egret ARF will require a minimum 3 channel ra-

dio control system that includes two standard servos.

The radio system we recommend is the Hitec Focus 3

AM radio. This radio system includes two standard

servos, receiver, servo mounting hardware and a setup

guide. If you already own a radio system, or want to

purchase a radio system that will be more upgradeable

in the future, a four or more channel radio with two

standard servos will work fine. If you decide to go this

way, our recommendation would be to use the Hitec

Flash 4X FM Computer radio. This is a very good radio system that offers the capability to grow as your

experience grows. A standard size receiver will fit in the Egret ARF, but to save weight we suggest you

purchase an aftermarket micro or mini receiver.

The flight battery you choose should be an 8 cell (9.6Volt)

Nickel Cadmium battery pack or an 8 cell Nickel Metal

Hydride battery pack. We recommend either the Watt-

age 8 cell 600Mah NiCd Battery or the Wattage 8 cell

800Mah NiMh battery (part # 128523). Both battery

packs come prewired with Tamiya connectors so they

will be compatible with the Wattage IC-380 ESC. The

Nickel Metal Hydride battery will give you about 25%

more run-time; however, it will not produce quite the amount of power as the Nickel Cadmium battery.

P/N 128522

FLIGHT BATTERY

P/N 350360

Because the flight battery powers both the motor and

the radio system, we suggest using an Automatic Delta

Peak Charger such as the Promax Black Widow Peak

Charger or the Promax Activator Digital Peak Charger

(part # 885650). It is vital to the Egret's flying perfor-

mance that the battery pack be fully charged every flight,

so using a peak charger is very important.

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

❑ {1}Hitec Focus 3 AM Radio System

❑ {1}Trinity AA Batteries - 8 pack # 837801

❑ {1}Wattage IC-380 30A ESC # 128471

❑ {1} Wattage 8C 600Mah NiCd Battery # 128522

❑ {1} Promax Black Widow Charger # 350360

❑ {1}Dubro Hook & Loop Material # 568906

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A # 887500

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy # 887560

❑ Pacer Thread-Lock # 339162

❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Excel Modeling Knife # 692801

❑ Adjustable Wrench

❑ Needle Nose Pliers

❑ Wire Cutters

❑ Electric or Hand Drill

❑ 1/16” Drill Bit

❑ 5/64” Drill Bit

RECOMMENDED ITEMS

❑ Builder's Triangle

❑ Straight Edge Ruler

❑ Pen or Pencil

❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

❑ Masking Tape

❑ Trinity Break-In Drops # 840365

❑ Performance Plus Motor Spray # 340186

❑ Rubbing Alcohol

❑ Paper Towels - not pictured

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks # 864204

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups # 864205

BATTERY CHARGER

OPTIONAL ITEMS

❑ {1}Hitec Flash 4X FM Computer Radio System

❑ {1}Wattage 8C 800Mah NiMh Battery # 128523

❑ {1} Promax Activator Digital Peak Charger # 885650

We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for easier identification during assembly. Each photo

below represents the parts that are required in a main section of the assembly process. Before you begin

assembly, group the parts like we show. This will ensure that you have all of the parts before you begin

assembly and it will also help you become familiar with each part. The corresponding part number is listed first,

then the quantity of that particular part, along with a short description of the part. As you proceed through

assembly, you will notice the same part number listed next to a particular part necessary for that step. If you

have any questions as to what that part might be, refer back to this section.

❑ {1} Center Pod w/Motor

❑ {1} Fuselage Pod

❑ {1} Right Wing Panel

❑ {1} Left Wing Panel

❑ {1} Composite Tail Boom

❑ {1} Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator

❑ {1} Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder & Sub-Fin

❑ {1} Upper Flying Wire Set

❑ {1} Lower Flying Wire Set w/Aluminum Bracket

❑ {1} Aluminum Wing Joiner Plate

❑ {1} 3mm x 60mm Steel Rod

❑ {1} 2mm x 40mm Steel Rod

❑ {1} Aluminum Upper Flying Wire Stand-Off

❑ {2} 2mm x 10mm Wood Screws

❑ {10} 2mm x 6mm Wood Screws

KIT CONTENTS

AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES PUSHROD ASSEMBLIES

WING ASSEMBLIES

MISCELLANEOUS ASSEMBLIES

❑ {1} 5mm x 380mm Nylon Pushrod Housing

❑ {1} 4mm x 420mm Nylon Pushrod Tube

❑ {1} 5mm x 345mm Nylon Pushrod Housing

❑ {1} 4mm x 390mm Nylon Pushrod Tube

❑ {2} Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates

❑ {4} 2mm x 12mm Machine Screws

❑ {4} 2mm x 22mm Threaded Rods

❑ {4} 2mm Threaded Clevises

❑ {1} Molded Nylon Cowl

❑ {1} Tinted Windscreen

❑ {1} 8.25 x 6.5 Nylon Propeller

❑ {1} 12 Tooth Pinion Gear w/Set Screw

❑ {2} 2mm x 6mm Wood Screws

LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLIES

❑ {2} 45mm Diameter Wheels

❑ {1} 25mm Diameter Wheel

❑ {1} Prebent Nose Gear Wire

❑ {1} Nylon Landing Gear Strap

❑ {2} 3mm x 20mm Machine Screws

❑ {4} 3mm Nylon Insert Nuts

❑ {2} 2.5mm x 10mm Wood Screws

❑ {1} 1.5mm Wheel Collar

❑ {1} 3mm x 4mm Machine Screw

FUSELAGE MOUNTING ASSEMBLIES

❑ {2} 9-1/2" Aluminum Tubes

❑ {2} 7-5/8" Aluminum Tubes

❑ {2} 5-3/8" Aluminum Tubes

❑ {1} Aluminum Spreader Bar

❑ {3} 3mm x 20mm Machine Screws

❑ {2} 3mm x 10mm Machine Screws

❑ {5} 3mm Hex Nuts

❑ {2} 2mm x 6mm Wood Screws

❑ {2} 2mm x 12mm Machine Screws

❑ {2} 2mm Hex Nuts

Shown below are full size drawings of the small hardware parts included with the Egret ARF. Use these

drawings to familiarize yourself with each part. Please refer back to this page to locate the proper parts when

they are needed for a particular assembly step. These drawings are especially helpful when trying to identify the

different size screws or nuts used in a particular step.

FULL SIZE HARDWARE DRAWINGS

33 34

3mm x 20mm

Machine Screw

3mm x 10mm

Machine Screw

2.5mm x 10mm

Wood Screw

2mm x 10mm

Wood Screw

2mm x 12mm

Machine Screw

2mm x 6mm

Wood Screw

3mm Hex

Nut

3mm Nylon

Insert Nut

3mm x 4mm

Machine Screw

2mm Hex

Nut

The Egret includes one extra motor pinion gear. The stock gear that comes preinstalled on the motor is a 14T

gear. This gear gives great overall performance. The extra pinion gear provided is a 12T gear. Replacing the

stock gear with this one will slow propeller r.p.m. down, but will improve flight times.

☛

Before beginning assembly, we recommend that

you first break in the motor. Taking the time to do

this now will do a couple of things. First, it will im-

prove the performance and life of the motor and,

second, it will give you a chance to test your radio

system, ESC and flight battery before installing them

into the Egret.

❑ 1) Using a small allen wrench, remove the pro-

peller adapter from the motor and set it aside for now.

❑ 2) Using a # 1 phillips screwdriver and an ad-

justable wrench, remove the motor/gear box assembly

from the center pod.

❑ 3) Lay the motor, flight battery, charger, radio

system and electronic speed control onto your work

table.

❑ 4) Charge the flight battery using your peak

charger, following the instructions that were pro-

vided with the charger. Install 8 AA batteries into

the Focus 3 transmitter.

❑ 5) Set the motor between the handles of a pair

of needle nose pliers and secure the motor to the

handles using three rubber bands. This will keep

the motor secure enough for the break-in procedure.

See photo # 1 below.

MOTOR BREAK-IN

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Adjustable Wrench

❑ Needle Nose Pliers

❑ Trinity Break-In Drops

❑ Performance Plus Motor Spray

❑ Paper Towels

BREAKING IN THE MOTOR

Photo # 1

❑ 6) Plug the two servo leads and the ESC lead

into their proper slots in the receiver. Plug the red

motor lead into the red lead on the ESC and plug the

black motor lead into the black lead on the ESC.

☛

The leads that are soldered onto the motor are

"bullet" connectors. If your ESC does not use bullet

connectors, you will need to change the connectors

on the ESC or the motor at this time.

❑ 7) Turn on the transmitter and plug the flight

battery into the ESC. If the motor turns on immedi-

ately, use the throttle lever on the back of the

transmitter (Focus 3 only) to turn off the motor.

❑ 8) With the motor turned off, test the operation

of the two servos. Both servos should move when

you move the control stick.

❑ 9) Carefully spray a couple of light sprays of

Performance Plus Motor Spray inside the motor

openings and apply a small drop of Trinity Break-

In Drops onto each of the two motor bushings and

onto the gear box bushings. See photo # 2 below.

Photo # 2

❑ 10) Using a couple of paper towels, wipe off

the excess motor spray and oil.

❑ 11) Slowly turn on the motor using the trans-

mitter throttle lever (Focus 3 only). Position the

throttle lever to about 1/3 throttle and let the motor

run. While the motor is running, apply a light spray

of motor spray inside the motor openings once every

minute, followed by a small drop of Break-In Drops

on each of the bushings. Do this until the battery is

fully discharged (i.e., the motor stops).

☛

If you have chosen to use an on-off only motor

controller, complete the same process but only run

the motor in two-minute intervals, letting the motor

cool between each.

❑ 12) After the battery has discharged and the mo-

tor has stopped, spray motor spray through the motor

openings until the fluid runs clear. Apply a couple of

drops of Break-In Drops to the bushings and wipe

away all of the excess using paper towels.

❑ 13) Reinstall the motor/gear box assembly and

the propeller adapter. Reverse the removal steps for

installation.

The covering material used on the Egret ARF is a

heat shrink polyester material. Because of this, it is

possible with heat and humidity changes that the

covering on your airplane may wrinkle or sag. This

trait is inherent in all types of heat shrink material.

To remove the wrinkles you will need to purchase,

or borrow from a fellow modeler, a heat iron. If

you need to purchase one, the Global Sealing Iron

is recommended.

A NOTE ABOUT COVERING

PARTS REQUIRED

❑ {1} Center Pod w/Motor

❑ {1} Right Wing Panel

❑ {1} Left Wing Panel

❑ {1} Aluminum Wing Joiner Plate

❑ {1} 3mm x 60mm Steel Rod

❑ {1} 2mm x 40mm Steel Rod

❑ {1} Aluminum Upper Flying Wire Stand-Off

❑ {2} 2mm x 10mm Wood Screws

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

WING ASSEMBLY

INSTALLING THE WING PANELS

Follow these simple steps to remove the wrinkles:

❑ 1) Plug in and turn on the sealing iron to the

medium temperature setting. Allow the iron to heat

up for approximately 5 - 7 minutes.

❑ 2) After the iron has reached temperature,

lightly apply the iron to the wrinkled section of

the covering. Move the iron slowly over the

wrinkled section until the covering tightens and the

wrinkles disappear. You will notice that the color

of the covering will darken when it is heated. When

the covering cools back down, it will return to its

normal color.

☛

If the color layer smears from any of the seams

the temperature of the iron is too hot. Turn the tem-

perature dial down and wait about 5 minutes for the

iron to adjust to the lower temperature. You can re-

move any color streaks using a paper towel soaked

with a small quantity of acetone.

P/N 360900

❑ 1) Working with the left wing panel for now,

carefully push the 3mm x 60mm steel rod into the

predrilled forward hole and the 2mm x 40mm steel

rod into the predrilled rear hole in the root rib.

❑ 2) Firmly push both steel rods into place until

they both bottom out and can't be pushed in any

farther. See photo # 3 below.

Photo # 3

☛

Do not glue the steel rods into the wing panel.

The wing panels are designed to be removable.

❑ 3) Carefully slide the left wing panel into place

on the left side of the center pod. The two steel rods

slide through the two predrilled holes in the upper

portion of the center pod. See photo # 4 below.

Photo # 4

❑ 4) Slide the right wing panel into place over the

two steel rods and push it up against the side of the

center pod. See photo # 5 below.

Photo # 5

☛

The two root ribs in the wing panels are angled.

This angle determines the amount of dihedral in the

wing. Don't worry about perfectly mating the wing

panels to the center pod yet. Final adjustments will

be made when the flying wires are installed later.

❑ 5) Place the aluminum upper flying wire stand-

off on top of the aluminum wing joiner plate. Align

the two holes in the stand-off with the two holes in

the plate. Slide one 2mm x 10mm wood screw

through each of the holes. See photo # 6 below.

Photo # 6

❑ 6) Set the flying wire stand-off assembly on top

of the wing, aligning the two wood screws with the

two predrilled holes in the top of the wing.

❑ 7) Using a # 1 phillips screwdriver, thread the

two wood screws into place and tighten them firmly.

See photo # 7 below.

Photo # 7

PARTS REQUIRED

❑ {1} Upper Flying Wire Set

❑ {4} 2mm x 6mm Wood Screws

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Adjustable Wrench

❑ Needle Nose Pliers

UPPER FLYING WIRES

INSTALLING THE UPPER FLYING WIRES

❑ 1) Using a pair of needle nose pliers, carefully

bend each of the four metal flying wire mounts up at

about a 5º angle. See photo # 8 below.

Photo # 8

❑ 2) Look at the top surface of the wing and you

will notice that there are four predrilled holes out to-

ward the wing tips, two in each wing panel.

❑ 3) Working with one flying wire assembly for

now, install one of the metal flying wire mounts into

one of the forward predrilled holes using one 2mm x

6mm wood screw. See photo # 9 below.

Photo # 9

❑ 4) Stretch the flying wire assembly across to the

opposite wing panel and install the second metal fly-

ing wire mount into that forward predrilled hole using

one 2mm x 6mm wood screw.

☛

It may be necessary to lengthen the flying wire.

To do this, loosen the 2mm hex nuts and simply turn

the threaded rods counter-clockwise.

❑ 5) Install the second flying wire assembly onto

the wing using the same technique as with the first

one. The two metal flying wire mounts should be

installed into the two rear predrilled holes.

❑ 6) Look carefully at the machine screw in the

top of the aluminum flying wire stand-off. You will

notice that there is a slot cut into the end of the screw.

This slot should be parallel with the leading edge of

the wing. If it is not, loosen the machine screw and

readjust it, then retighten the screw.

❑ 7) Pull both of the flying wires up and slip them

into the slot in the top of the machine screw. See

photo # 10 below.

☛

At this point, leave the flying wires loose. They

will be tightened later after installing the set of fly-

ing wires onto the bottom of the wing.

Photo # 10

PARTS REQUIRED

❑ {2} 45mm Diameter Wheels

❑ {2} 9-1/2" Aluminum Tubes

❑ {2} 7-5/8" Aluminum Tubes

❑ {2} 3mm x 20mm Machine Screws

❑ {2} 3mm Hex Nuts

❑ {2} 3mm x 20mm Machine Screws

❑ {4} 3mm Nylon Insert Nuts

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ Pacer Thread-Lock

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Adjustable Wrench

❑ Needle Nose Pliers

MAIN LANDING GEAR

INSTALLING THE ALUMINUM TUBES

❑ 2) Look carefully at both of the 9-1/2" alumi-

num tubes. You will notice on one end of each tube

that there is one 2mm hole drilled through the middle.

☛

The 2mm hole in each tube should be down away

from the bottom of the center pod.

❑ 3) Install the two 9-1/2" aluminum tubes onto

the bottom of the center pod, through the hole that is

1-1/4" behind the motor, using one 3mm x 20mm

machine screw and one 3mm hex nut. Orientate both

of the tubes so that they angle out away from the

center pod. See photo # 11 below.

❑ 1) Look carefully at the bottom of the center

pod. You will notice that there are three predrilled

holes: one hole 5/8" behind the motor, one hole

1-1/4" behind the motor and one hole in the back

of the center pod.

Photo # 11

☛

Do not fully tighten the machine screw at this

time. Leave it slightly loose.

❑ 4) Look carefully at the ends of both 7-5/8"

aluminum tubes. You will notice that one crimped

end is longer than the other crimped end.

☛

The shorter of the two crimped ends should be

mounted to the center pod.

❑ 5) Install the two 7-5/8" aluminum tubes onto

the bottom of the center pod, through the rear-most

hole, using one 3mm x 20mm machine screw and

one 3mm hex nut. Orientate both of the tubes so

that they angle out away from the center pod. See

photo # 12 below.

Photo # 12

☛

Do not fully tighten the machine screw at this

time. Leave it slightly loose.

INSTALLING THE WHEELS

❑ 6) Slide one 3mm x 20mm machine screw

through each of the two 45mm diameter wheels.

❑ 7) Thread one 3mm nylon insert nut onto each

machine screw. Thread the screws up against the

wheels, but not so tight that the wheels won't rotate

smoothly. See photo # 13 below.

Photo # 13

❑ 8) Working with only one side for now, pull the

two aluminum tubes together, aligning the predrilled

holes in the two crimped ends.

☛

The crimped end of the forward aluminum tube

should be on the inside of the rear aluminum tube.

❑ 9) Slide one wheel assembly through the two

tubes. Thread one nylon insert nut onto the ma-

chine screw and up against the tubes. While

holding the inner nylon insert nut with needle nose

pliers, tighten the outer nylon insert nut using an

adjustable wrench. See photo # 14 below.

Photo # 14

❑ 10) Repeat steps # 8 and # 9 to install the wheel

assembly on the opposite two tubes.

❑ 11) Remove the two hex nuts holding the alu-

minum tubes to the center pod. Apply a couple of

drops of Pacer Thread-Lock to each nut and reinstall

them. Tighten the machine screws and nuts using a

# 1 phillips screwdriver and an adjustable wrench.

☛

Do not overtighten the screws. You don't want

to crush the wood.

PARTS REQUIRED

❑ {1} Fuselage Pod

❑ {1} Tinted Windscreen

❑ {2} 5-3/8" Aluminum Tubes

❑ {1} Aluminum Spreader Bar

❑ {1} 3mm x 20mm Machine Screw

❑ {2} 3mm x 10mm Machine Screws

❑ {3} 3mm Hex Nuts

❑ {2} 2mm x 12mm Machine Screws

❑ {2} 2mm Hex Nuts

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ Pacer Thread-Lock

❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Adjustable Wrench

❑ Electric or Hand Drill

❑ 1/16" Drill Bit

❑ Straight Edge Ruler

❑ Pen or Pencil

FUSELAGE POD

INSTALLING THE ALUMINUM TUBES

❑ 1) Install the two 5-3/8" aluminum tubes onto

the bottom of the center pod, through the hole that is

5/8" behind the motor, using one 3mm x 20mm ma-

chine screw and one 3mm hex nut. Orientate both of

the tubes so that they angle out away from the center

pod. See photo # 15 below.

Photo # 15

INSTALLING THE SPREADER BAR

❑ 2) Place the aluminum spreader bar between the

two longest aluminum tubes, aligning the predrilled

holes in the ends of the spreader bar with the two

predrilled holes in the aluminum tubes.

❑ 3) Slide one 2mm x 12mm machine screw

through the predrilled hole in one aluminum tube and

through the hole in the spreader bar. Thread one 2mm

hex nut onto the screw to hold the spreader bar in

place. Only hand-tighten the hex nut at this time.

See photo # 16 below.

Photo # 16

☛

Install the spreader bar so that the angles in the

ends of the spreader bar match the angle of the alu-

minum tubes.

❑ 4) Slide one 2mm x 12mm machine screw

through the predrilled hole in the opposite aluminum

tube and through the hole in the spreader bar. Thread

one 2mm hex nut onto the machine screw. Only

hand-tighten the hex nut at this time.

INSTALLING THE FUSELAGE POD

❑ 6) Look carefully at the shape of the tinted wind-

screen. You will notice that the bottom is straight

and that the top is curved.

❑ 7) Slide one 3mm x 10mm machine screw

through the predrilled hole in the right side of the

windscreen, then slide the machine screw through the

predrilled hole in the right side of the fuselage pod.

❑ 8) Slide the end of the aluminum tube on the

right side of the center pod over the machine screw

(from the inside) and thread one 3mm hex nut onto

Photo # 18

❑ 9) Carefully bend the windscreen around the

front of the fuselage pod until the predrilled hole in

the left side of the windscreen lines up with the pre-

drilled hole in the left side of the fuselage pod.

❑ 10) Slide one 3mm x 10mm machine screw

through the predrilled hole in the left side of the wind-

screen, then slide the machine screw through the

predrilled hole in the left side of the fuselage pod.

❑ 11) Slide the end of the aluminum tube on the

left side of the center pod over the machine screw

(from the inside) and thread one 3mm hex nut onto

the machine screw. Only hand-tighten the nut at this

time. See photo # 19 below.

Photo # 19

❑ 5) Using a ruler and a pencil, measure forward

1-3/4" from the back edge of the fuselage pod, and

draw a straight line. See photo # 17 below.

Photo # 17

❑ 12) Pivot the fuselage pod forward then pull it

back under the aluminum spreader bar. Align the

line you drew on the fuselage pod with the back edge

of the spreader bar. See photo # 20 below.

the machine screw. Only hand-tighten the nut at this

time. See photo # 18 below.

Photo # 20

❑ 13) Keeping the line on the fuselage pod lined

up with the spreader bar, adjust the fuselage pod un-

til the holes in the spreader bar are centered over it.

❑ 14) When satisfied with the alignment, use a

pencil and mark the locations of the two holes in the

spreader bar onto the fuselage pod.

❑ 15) Pivot the fuselage pod forward so you can

see the two marks you made. Using a drill with a

1/16" drill bit, drill two holes through the fuselage

pod at the marks you made.

❑ 16) Pivot the fuselage pod back under the

spreader bar. Align the holes in the fuselage pod with

the holes in the spreader bar. Use two 2mm x 6mm

wood screws to hold the fuselage pod to the spreader

bar. See photo # 21 below.

Photo # 21

❑ 17) Remove the hex nuts holding the aluminum

tubes to the front of the center pod and the front of

the fuselage pod. Also, remove the hex nuts holding

the spreader bar to the rear aluminum tubes.

❑ 18) Apply a couple of drops of Pacer Thread-

Lock to each hex nut and reinstall them. Tighten the

machine screws and hex nuts using a # 0 phillips

screwdriver (for the 2mm machine screws) and a # 1

phillips screwdriver (for the 3mm machine screws)

and an adjustable wrench.

Photo # 22

❑ 2) Set the aluminum bracket (with flying wires)

onto the bottom of the fuselage pod. Align the ends

of the bracket with the sides of the fuselage pod and

center the bracket over the line you drew.

❑ 3) When satisfied with the alignment, use a pen-

cil and mark the locations of the two holes in the

bracket onto the fuselage pod.

❑ 4) Remove the bracket from the fuselage pod.

Using a drill with a 1/16" drill bit, drill two holes

through the fuselage pod at the marks you made.

❑ 5) Set the bracket back into place and realign it.

Use two 2mm x 6mm wood screws to hold the bracket

to the fuselage pod. Tighten the screws firmly using a

# 1 phillips screwdriver. See photo # 23 below.

Photo # 23

INSTALLING THE LOWER FLYING WIRES

❑ 6) Using a pair of pliers, carefully bend each of

the four metal flying wire mounts up at about a 5º

angle (as you did with the upper flying wires).

❑ 7) Look at the bottom surface of the wing and

you will notice that there are four predrilled holes

out toward the wing tips, two in each wing panel.

PARTS REQUIRED

❑ {1} Lower Flying Wire Set w/Aluminum Bracket

❑ {6} 2mm x 6mm Wood Screws

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Adjustable Wrench

❑ Electric or Hand Drill

❑ 1/16" Drill Bit

❑ Straight Edge Ruler

❑ Pen or Pencil

LOWER FLYING WIRES

INSTALLING THE ALUMINUM BRACKET

❑ 1) Using a ruler and a pencil, measure forward

7/8" from the angled edge of the fuselage pod, and

draw a straight line. See photo # 22 below.

❑ 8) Working with one flying wire assembly for

now, install one of the metal flying wire mounts into

one of the forward predrilled holes using one 2mm x

6mm wood screw. See photo # 24 below.

Photo # 24

❑ 9) Stretch the flying wire assembly across to the

opposite wing panel and install the second metal fly-

ing wire mount into that forward predrilled hole, using

one 2mm x 6mm wood screw.

☛

It may be necessary to lengthen the flying wire.

To do this, loosen the 2mm hex nuts and simply turn

the threaded rods counter-clockwise.

❑ 10) Install the second flying wire assembly onto

the wing using the same technique as with the first

one. The two metal flying wire mounts should be

installed into the two rear predrilled holes.

☛

Make sure that the flying wires are not twisted

around each other.

ADJUSTING THE FLYING WIRES

❑ 11) Push both wing panels firmly against the

center pod. There should be few or no gaps between

the parts.

❑ 12) Thread each of the 2mm hex nuts out away

from the metal flying wire mounts. To adjust the

tension of the flying wires, turn the threaded rod

clockwise to tighten the flying wire or turn it counter-

clockwise to loosen the flying wire.

☛

Adjust the tension of each flying wire equal

amounts. You don't want one flying wire tighter than

the other because This could cause the wing to warp

or twist.

❑ 13) Check the final tension of each of the fly-

ing wires. Lightly push down on the flying wire (in

the middle) and measure how far the wire moves

down. This measurement should be about 1/2".

❑ 14) When satisfied with the adjustments, thread

each of the 2mm hex nuts up against the metal flying

wire mounts and use an adjustable wrench to tighten

them securely.

PARTS REQUIRED

❑ {1} 25mm Diameter Wheel

❑ {1} Prebent Nose Gear Wire

❑ {1} Nylon Landing Gear Strap

❑ {2} 2.5mm x 10mm Wood Screws

❑ {1} 1.5mm Wheel Collar

❑ {1} 3mm x 4mm Machine Screw

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Electric or Hand Drill

❑ 1/16" Drill Bit

❑ Pen or Pencil

NOSE GEAR

INSTALLING THE NOSE GEAR WIRE

❑ 1) Slide the shorter end of the prebent nose gear

wire into the predrilled hole in the bottom of the

fuselage pod.

❑ 2) To properly align the nose gear wire, the wire

should point forward and be centered down the middle

of the fuselage pod. See photo # 25 below.

Photo # 25

❑ 3) While holding the nose gear wire in place,

place the nylon landing gear strap over the wire and

center the strap.

❑ 4) While holding the strap in place, use a pen

and mark the locations of the two mounting holes

onto the fuselage pod.

❑ 5) Remove the landing gear strap. Using a drill

with a 1/16" drill bit, drill two pilot holes through the

fuselage pod at the marks you made.

❑ 6) Set the landing gear strap back into place and

realign it. With the nose gear wire aligned, install the

landing gear strap using two 2.5mm x 10mm wood

screws. Tighten the screws firmly using a # 1 phillips

screwdriver. See photo # 26 below.

Photo # 26

☛

Make sure the axle portion of the nose gear wire

is perpendicular to the sides of the fuselage pod. This

will ensure that the Egret rolls straight on the ground.

INSTALLING THE NOSE GEAR WHEEL

❑ 7) Slide the 25mm diameter wheel onto the axle.

Push it up against the nose gear wire, then slide the

wheel collar onto the axle and push it up against the

wheel. Adjust the depth of the wheel collar until the

wheel spins without binding, then tighten the machine

screw using a # 1 phillips screwdriver.

PARTS REQUIRED

❑ {1} Composite Tail Boom

❑ {1} Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator

❑ {1} Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder & Sub-Fin

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy

❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ Builder's Triangle

❑ Straight Edge Ruler

❑ Pen or Pencil

❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

❑ Masking Tape

❑ Rubbing Alcohol

❑ Paper Towels

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

STABILIZER INSTALLATION

ALIGNING THE VERTICAL STABILIZER

❑ 2) Using a modeling knife, carefully remove the

covering from over the top and bottom of the precut

slot in the horizontal stabilizer. The slot is 5/32" wide

and 1-15/16" long. See photo # 27 below.

Photo # 27

❑ 1) Remove the elevator and hinges from the

horizontal stabilizer and set them aside for now.

❑ 3) Remove the rudder and hinges from the ver-

tical stabilizer and set them aside. Remove the sub-fin

and set it aside, also.

❑ 4) Slide the mounting tab in the vertical stabi-

lizer down into the slot in the horizontal stabilizer.

Push the vertical stabilizer back as far as possible.

The trailing edge of the vertical stabilizer should hang

past the trailing edge of the horizontal stabilizer about

1/16". See photo # 28 below.

Photo # 28

❑ 5) While holding the vertical stabilizer firmly

in place, use a pen and draw an outline on the top of

the horizontal stabilizer where the vertical stabilizer

meets it.

❑ 6) Remove the vertical stabilizer. Using a

modeling knife, carefully remove the covering from

inside the outline you drew on top of the horizontal

stabilizer.

☛

When cutting through the covering material to

remove it, cut with only enough pressure to cut

through only the covering itself. Cutting down into

the balsa may weaken the stabilizer.

❑ 7) Slide the vertical stabilizer back into place

and realign it. Now, using a builder's triangle, check

to ensure that the vertical stabilizer is aligned 90º to

the horizontal stabilizer. See figure # 1 below.

Figure # 1

❑ 8) Once you are satisfied that the vertical stabi-

lizer is aligned correctly, mix a generous amount of

Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer to

the mounting slot in the horizontal stabilizer and to

the sides and bottom of the vertical stabilizer.

❑ 9) Set the vertical stabilizer into place and re-

align it. Hold the stabilizer in place using several

pieces of masking tape and double check your mea-

surements once more before the epoxy cures.

Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and

rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to fully cure be-

fore proceeding.

MOUNTING THE VERTICAL STABILIZER

MOUNTING THE STABILIZER ASSEMBLY

❑ 10) Slide the tab in the bottom of the vertical

stabilizer into the precut slot in the stabilizer

mounting platform in the tail boom. Push the sta-

bilizer assembly as far forward as possible. See

photo # 29 below.

Photo # 29

❑ 11) With the stabilizer assembly held firmly in

place, use a pen to draw lines onto the bottom of the

stabilizer where it and the tail boom meet. Do this

on both the right and left sides.

❑ 12) Remove the stabilizer assembly from the tail

boom. Using the lines you just drew as a guide, care-

fully remove the covering from between them using

a modeling knife. See photo # 30 below.

Photo # 30

☛

When cutting through the covering to remove

it, cut with only enough pressure to cut through only

the covering itself. Cutting into the balsa will weaken

the stabilizer.

❑ 13) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 5

Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer to the mounting

area on the bottom of the stabilizer and to the top of

the stabilizer mounting platform on the tail boom.

Apply a thin layer to the tab on the bottom of the

vertical stabilizer, also.

❑ 14) Set the stabilizer assembly back into place

and realign it. When satisfied with the alignment,

hold the stabilizer assembly in place using several

pieces of masking tape and remove any excess epoxy

using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Allow the

epoxy to fully cure before proceeding.

MOUNTING THE SUB-FIN

❑ 15) Slide the sub-fin into place on the bottom

of the tail boom. To align it properly, the trailing

edge of the sub-fin should be even with the trailing

edge of the vertical stabilizer (use a straight edge to

check this) and the sub-fin should be 90º to the hori-

zontal stabilizer. See photo # 31 below.

Photo # 31

☛

It may be necessary to remove a small amount

of material from the bottom of the sub-fin so it will

line up properly. If so, use 220 grit sandpaper with a

sanding block.

❑ 16) Once you are satisfied that the sub-fin is

aligned correctly, mix a small amount of Kwik

Bond 5 Minute Epoxy. Remove the sub-fin and

apply a thin layer to the bottom and sides of the

mounting surface.

❑ 17) Set the sub-fin back into place and realign

it. Hold the sub-fin in place using several pieces of

masking tape and double check your measurements

once more before the epoxy cures. Remove any ex-

cess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol.

Allow the epoxy to fully cure before proceeding.

MOUNTING THE TAIL BOOM

❑ 18) Slide the end of the tail boom assembly over

the hardwood post in the back of the center pod.

❑ 19) Align the horizontal stabilizer with the wing.

Look carefully from the front of the center pod at

both the wing and the stabilizer. When aligned prop-

erly, the stabilizer should be level with the wing. If it

is not level, rotate the tail boom until you are satis-

fied with the alignment. See figure # 2 below.

Figure # 2

❑ 20) When you are satisfied with the alignment,

use a pencil and draw a mark on both the tail boom

and the center pod. You will use this mark to realign

the tail boom later. See photo # 32 below.

Photo # 32

❑ 21) Remove the tail boom assembly. Using 220

grit sandpaper, carefully roughen the inside surface

of the tail boom where it will be glued to the hard-

wood post.

☛

Roughening the smooth surface will make the

glue joint stronger.

❑ 22) Mix a small amount of Kwik Bond 5 Minute

Epoxy. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the outside of

the hardwood post and to the inside of the tail boom.

❑ 23) Slide the tail boom assembly back into place

and realign it. Hold the tail boom assembly in place

using several pieces of masking tape and double check

the alignment once more before the epoxy cures. Re-

move any excess epoxy using a paper towel and

rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to fully cure be-

fore proceeding.

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A

CONTROL SURFACE HINGING

HINGING THE ELEVATOR

❑ 1) Locate the four precut hinge slots in the trail-

ing edge of the horizontal stabilizer and the leading

edge of the elevator.

❑ 2) Using a modeling knife, carefully remove any

excess covering material from over each of the hinge

slots.

❑ 3) Test fit the four C/A hinges into the hinge

slots in the elevator. Each hinge should be inserted

far enough into the slots so that the centerline of the

hinge is flush with the leading edge. If the hinges

cannot be inserted deeply enough, use a modeling

knife to carefully cut the hinge slots deeper. See

photo # 33 below.

Photo # 33

A=A-1

❑ 4) With each of the hinges centered, apply 3-4

drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the joint where the

hinges and the elevator meet. Allow a few seconds

between drops for the C/A to wick into the hinges,

then turn the elevator over and repeat this procedure

on the other side. Let the C/A dry for about 10 min-

utes before proceeding.

❑ 5) Slide the elevator and its hinges into the pre-

cut hinge slots in the trailing edge of the stabilizer.

Adjust the elevator so that the elevator tips are even

with the stabilizer tips.

❑ 6) While holding the elevator tight against the

stabilizer, rotate the elevator down about 45º. Apply

3-4 drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the exposed

area of each hinge. Turn the fuselage over and re-

peat for the other side of the hinges. Allow the C/A

to cure for about 10 minutes. Once cured, the eleva-

tor may be stiff and difficult to move. This is normal.

Gently move it up and down about five to ten times

to free it up.

HINGING THE RUDDER

❑ 7) Locate the three precut hinge slots in the trail-

ing edge of the vertical stabilizer (one is in the sub-fin)

and the leading edge of the rudder.

❑ 8) Using a modeling knife, carefully remove any

excess covering material from over each of the hinge

slots.

❑ 9) Test fit the three C/A hinges into the hinge

slots in the rudder. Each hinge should be inserted far

enough into the slots so that the centerline of the hinge

is flush with the leading edge. If the hinges cannot

be inserted deeply enough, use a modeling knife to

carefully cut the hinge slots deeper.

❑ 10) With each of the hinges centered, apply 3-4

drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the joint where the

hinges and the rudder meet. Allow a few seconds

between drops for the C/A to wick into the hinges,

then turn the rudder over and repeat this procedure

on the other side. Let the C/A dry for about 10 min-

utes before proceeding.

❑ 11) Slide the rudder and its hinges into the pre-

cut hinge slots in the trailing edge of the stabilizer.

Adjust the rudder so that the rudder tips are even with

the stabilizer and sub-fin tips.

❑ 12) While holding the rudder tight against the

stabilizer, rotate the rudder to the right about 45º. Ap-

ply 3-4 drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the exposed

area of each hinge. Turn the fuselage over and re-

peat for the other side of the hinges. Allow the C/A

to cure for about 10 minutes. Once cured, the rudder

may be stiff and difficult to move. This is normal.

Gently move it back and forth about five to ten times

to free it up.

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ Electric or Hand Drill

❑ 1/16" Drill Bit

❑ Pen or Pencil

SERVO INSTALLATION

INSTALLING THE SERVOS

❑ 1) Locate the two servos you intend to use for

the elevator and rudder controls.

❑ 2) Carefully install the four rubber grommets

and four brass collets onto each of the servo mount-

ing lugs.

☛

For proper vibration reduction, the brass collets

should be inserted into the rubber grommets with the

flanges facing the bottom of the servo mounting lugs.

See figure # 3 below.

Figure # 3

❑ 3) Using a modeling knife, remove the cover-

ing from over the two servo cutouts in the center pod.

See photo # 34 below.

Photo # 34

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A

❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ Wire Cutters

❑ Electric or Hand Drill

❑ 5/64" Drill Bit

❑ Straight Edge Ruler

❑ Pen or Pencil

❑ Masking Tape

❑ 4) Slide one servo into the rear servo cutout.

Position the servo so that the servo output shaft is

toward the front of the airplane and on the left side

of the center pod (looking from the rear). See

photo # 35 below.

Photo # 35

Photo # 36

INSTALLING THE CONTROL HORN

❑ 1) Turn the fuselage upside down and position

the nylon control horn on the bottom, left side of the

elevator.

❑ 2) To properly align the control horn, it should

be perpendicular to the hinge line and its center-

line should be 5/8" out from the side of the sub fin,

at the hinge line. The clevis attachment holes

should be located directly over the hinge line.

❑ 3) When satisfied with the alignment, use a

drill with a 5/64” drill bit and the control horn as a

guide, and drill the two mounting holes through the

elevator.

❑ 4) Set the control horn back into place and re-

align it. Push two 2mm x 12mm machine screws

into the base of the control horn and through the

elevator. See photo # 37 below.

Photo # 37

☛

Make sure that when installing the servo the

servo wire passes through the servo cutout and does

not get pinched between the cutout and the servo.

❑ 5) Slide the second servo into the forward servo

cutout. Position the servo so that the servo output

shaft is toward the back of the airplane and on the

right side of the center pod (looking from the rear).

See photo # 36 below.

☛

Make sure that when installing the servo the

servo wire passes through the servo cutout and does

not get pinched between the cutout and the servo.

❑ 6) Using a drill with a 1/16" drill bit, drill four

pilot holes into the center pod, one for each of the

mounting screws (included with your radio system).

Using a # 1 phillips screwdriver, install and tighten

the mounting screws to hold the servos in place.

☛

Be careful not to drill all the way through the

center pod.

☛

The rear servo will be the elevator servo and the

front servo will be the rudder servo.

PARTS REQUIRED

❑ {1} 5mm x 345mm Nylon Pushrod Housing

❑ {1} 4mm x 390mm Nylon Pushrod Tube

❑ {1} Nylon Control Horn w/Backplate

❑ {2} 2mm x 12mm Machine Screws

❑ {2} 2mm x 22mm Threaded Rods

❑ {2} 2mm Threaded Clevises

ELEVATOR PUSHROD

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

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WattAge Egret Instructions For Assembly

Brand: WattAge

Model: Egret

Category: Toys & accessories

Type: Instructions For Assembly

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WattAge Egret Instructions For Assembly

WattAge Egret Instructions For Assembly

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