aero
naut
Jonny
Harbour tug
Order No. 3030/00
Harbour tug Jonny
Jonny is a fully operational model which will give great pleasure to any model builder. The basic design is that of a modern harbour tug. One
outstanding feature of the kit is the very high quality of the materials supplied, and the reward is a superb model. The capacious hull is moulded
in GRP, and all locations for openings are moulded-in. The model is supplied complete with two shaft drive systems and twin rudders, but a Kort
nozzle system can also be installed at any time. Alternatively the vessel can be fitted with a Schottel drive system, and the building instructions
include a section describing this option.
The kit includes all the parts required for a stern roller, which means that the vessel can be built in an offshore tug version. The working deck is
clad with laser-cut wood panels. The wheelhouse furniture and fittings are included, allowing any level of detail to be incorporated. Additional
features are the two working fire monitors, which also rotate.
The kit contains many operational working parts such as towing winch, tugger winches, fire monitors, searchlight and more.
Please follow the individual steps in these instructions when building the model, and read through the descriptions and notes carefully before
you reach for the glue bottle. The last few pages of these instructions contain a Parts List to which you should refer constantly during
construction. The numbered parts mentioned in the instructions are described accurately in the Parts List, informing you of their form, material
and dimensions.
Certain parts have to be cut to the correct length by the builder; the correct dimensions are also stated in the Parts List.
Suggested power systems:
Shaft drive system
Motor 2 x Race 720 navy Order No. 7000/49
Speed controller 1 - 2 x Multi 25 Order No. 7019/71
Lead-acid battery 12 V / 7.2 Ah Order No. 7449/06
1 x Propeller, 60 mm, R.H. Order No. 7174/14
1 x Propeller, 60 mm, L.H. Order No. 7174/15
2 x Flexible shaft coupling Order No. 7035/60
2 x Flexible shaft coupling Order No. 7035/66
2 x Flexible shaft coupling Order No. 7035/67
Optional Schottel drive system
Schottel drive system, brass Order No. 7020/84
Optional equipment
Bow thruster Order No. 7020/28 or 7020/93
MicroLight (lighting / switch module) Order No. 7019/01
EasyLight (lighting / switch module) Order No. 7019/03
Geared pump Order No. 7140/50
Silicone tube Order No. 7274/57
Winch drive unit Gear power 15/6V micro geared motor
Recommended adhesives
Material Adhesive Order No.
GRP / ABS, GRP / PVC UHU Acrylit 7633/09
GRP / wood, GRP / metal UHU plus endfest 7633/02
Wood / wood Ponal Express 7638/10
UHU hart 7631/02
Wood / metal, metal / metal UHU plus endfest 7633/02
UHU plus schnellfest 7633/04
ABS / metal, ABS / wood Stabilit Express 7646/01
Recommended primer
Material Primer Order No.
Plywood Sanding sealer 7666/02
The laser-cut parts are retained in the wooden
sheets by small lugs. Release the parts by
cutting through the lugs with a sharp knife.
Don't break the parts out, as they could be
damaged.
We recommend using our balsa knife
Order No. 8185/00
Use polycarbonate paints to finish
the GRP and ABS components.
The wooden parts should be
primed using sanding sealer and
rubbed down before painting.
Tips & notes
Assemble parts 1 - 4 to make the boatstand.
Hull
Use a pencil to pick out the marked position of the bow thruster
(BSR); this will help when cutting the openings.
Mark the openings for the bow thruster to suit the unit you intend to
install, and cut them out.
We recommend using a Dremel or similar electric tool with a Form
Flame diamond cutter to cut the openings; this bit can be used both
to drill and shape the opening.
Adjust the holes to suit the bow thruster you wish to fit. Assemble
the bow thruster using UHU Plast Spezial or Ruderer adhesive.
Position the bow thruster in the hull. The BSR should be angled back at about 50°, so that the screws can be reached at any time (in case of repair);
tack it to the hull using cyano-acrylate ('cyano'). Seal any gaps on the outside of the hull using adhesive tape (masking tape; not standard clear
tape, as Stabilit / Acrylit sticks to this). Glue the BSR to the inside of the hull using Stabilit / Acrylit. Allow the glue to cure fully, then remove the tape
and apply more glue round the tubes on the outside. Cut off the excess tube length and carefully sand back flush with the hull.
27 21
19
20
23
18 24 25
8
9
10
11
18
12 13 14
22
15
16 17
26
Cautiously place the framework in the hull, but don't glue it at this stage!
The rear face of frame 13 (shown red) must lie flush with the rear scupper and the step in the rubbing strake. Now glue the deck stringers 19
to the frames, ensuring that they fit fully into the slots; they must not make contact with the hull.
Glue frame 16 to the stringers 18, and the foredeck girders 23 to frames 13 - 16.
At a later stage the two stringers 18 can be used as a support for the receiver, speed controllers and other electronic units.
13
1
2
3
4
5
Remove the frames and stringers from the laser-cut sheets. Fit the frames 8 - 15 on one stringer 18, and hold them in place using spring clamps or
strips of tape. Insert the second stringer 18 in the slots in the frames, then tack the stringers to the frames using cyano. Glue the battery plate 22
in the frames 12 - 15. Glue the two deck stringers 19 to the frames. The remaining joints are glued when the framework is fitted in the hull. Glue
the support 27 between the main deck supports 21.
Mark the height of the deck inside the hull, then glue the foredeck support 25 in the bow. Place the frame 17 in position. Lay the foredeck 64 in
place and clamp it to the bulwark. Now stand the hull vertically on its bow. Position frame 17 carefully and glue it to the hull. Remove the deck,
then glue the foredeck girders 24 in place.
Specification
Scale 1 : 32
Height 675 mm
Weight 14 kg
Beam 308 mm
Length 990 mm
Draught 110 mm
Harbour tug Jonny
Jonny is a fully operational model which will give great pleasure to any model builder. The basic design is that of a modern harbour tug. One
outstanding feature of the kit is the very high quality of the materials supplied, and the reward is a superb model. The capacious hull is moulded
in GRP, and all locations for openings are moulded-in. The model is supplied complete with two shaft drive systems and twin rudders, but a Kort
nozzle system can also be installed at any time. Alternatively the vessel can be fitted with a Schottel drive system, and the building instructions
include a section describing this option.
The kit includes all the parts required for a stern roller, which means that the vessel can be built in an offshore tug version. The working deck is
clad with laser-cut wood panels. The wheelhouse furniture and fittings are included, allowing any level of detail to be incorporated. Additional
features are the two working fire monitors, which also rotate.
The kit contains many operational working parts such as towing winch, tugger winches, fire monitors, searchlight and more.
Please follow the individual steps in these instructions when building the model, and read through the descriptions and notes carefully before
you reach for the glue bottle. The last few pages of these instructions contain a Parts List to which you should refer constantly during
construction. The numbered parts mentioned in the instructions are described accurately in the Parts List, informing you of their form, material
and dimensions.
Certain parts have to be cut to the correct length by the builder; the correct dimensions are also stated in the Parts List.
Suggested power systems:
Shaft drive system
Motor 2 x Race 720 navy Order No. 7000/49
Speed controller 1 - 2 x Multi 25 Order No. 7019/71
Lead-acid battery 12 V / 7.2 Ah Order No. 7449/06
1 x Propeller, 60 mm, R.H. Order No. 7174/14
1 x Propeller, 60 mm, L.H. Order No. 7174/15
2 x Flexible shaft coupling Order No. 7035/60
2 x Flexible shaft coupling Order No. 7035/66
2 x Flexible shaft coupling Order No. 7035/67
Optional Schottel drive system
Schottel drive system, brass Order No. 7020/84
Optional equipment
Bow thruster Order No. 7020/28 or 7020/93
MicroLight (lighting / switch module) Order No. 7019/01
EasyLight (lighting / switch module) Order No. 7019/03
Geared pump Order No. 7140/50
Silicone tube Order No. 7274/57
Winch drive unit Gear power 15/6V micro geared motor
Recommended adhesives
Material Adhesive Order No.
GRP / ABS, GRP / PVC UHU Acrylit 7633/09
GRP / wood, GRP / metal UHU plus endfest 7633/02
Wood / wood Ponal Express 7638/10
UHU hart 7631/02
Wood / metal, metal / metal UHU plus endfest 7633/02
UHU plus schnellfest 7633/04
ABS / metal, ABS / wood Stabilit Express 7646/01
Recommended primer
Material Primer Order No.
Plywood Sanding sealer 7666/02
The laser-cut parts are retained in the wooden
sheets by small lugs. Release the parts by
cutting through the lugs with a sharp knife.
Don't break the parts out, as they could be
damaged.
We recommend using our balsa knife
Order No. 8185/00
Use polycarbonate paints to finish
the GRP and ABS components.
The wooden parts should be
primed using sanding sealer and
rubbed down before painting.
Tips & notes
Assemble parts 1 - 4 to make the boatstand.
Hull
Use a pencil to pick out the marked position of the bow thruster
(BSR); this will help when cutting the openings.
Mark the openings for the bow thruster to suit the unit you intend to
install, and cut them out.
We recommend using a Dremel or similar electric tool with a Form
Flame diamond cutter to cut the openings; this bit can be used both
to drill and shape the opening.
Adjust the holes to suit the bow thruster you wish to fit. Assemble
the bow thruster using UHU Plast Spezial or Ruderer adhesive.
Position the bow thruster in the hull. The BSR should be angled back at about 50°, so that the screws can be reached at any time (in case of repair);
tack it to the hull using cyano-acrylate ('cyano'). Seal any gaps on the outside of the hull using adhesive tape (masking tape; not standard clear
tape, as Stabilit / Acrylit sticks to this). Glue the BSR to the inside of the hull using Stabilit / Acrylit. Allow the glue to cure fully, then remove the tape
and apply more glue round the tubes on the outside. Cut off the excess tube length and carefully sand back flush with the hull.
27 21
19
20
23
18 24 25
8
9
10
11
18
12 13 14
22
15
16 17
26
Cautiously place the framework in the hull, but don't glue it at this stage!
The rear face of frame 13 (shown red) must lie flush with the rear scupper and the step in the rubbing strake. Now glue the deck stringers 19
to the frames, ensuring that they fit fully into the slots; they must not make contact with the hull.
Glue frame 16 to the stringers 18, and the foredeck girders 23 to frames 13 - 16.
At a later stage the two stringers 18 can be used as a support for the receiver, speed controllers and other electronic units.
13
1
2
3
4
5
Remove the frames and stringers from the laser-cut sheets. Fit the frames 8 - 15 on one stringer 18, and hold them in place using spring clamps or
strips of tape. Insert the second stringer 18 in the slots in the frames, then tack the stringers to the frames using cyano. Glue the battery plate 22
in the frames 12 - 15. Glue the two deck stringers 19 to the frames. The remaining joints are glued when the framework is fitted in the hull. Glue
the support 27 between the main deck supports 21.
Mark the height of the deck inside the hull, then glue the foredeck support 25 in the bow. Place the frame 17 in position. Lay the foredeck 64 in
place and clamp it to the bulwark. Now stand the hull vertically on its bow. Position frame 17 carefully and glue it to the hull. Remove the deck,
then glue the foredeck girders 24 in place.
Specification
Scale 1 : 32
Height 675 mm
Weight 14 kg
Beam 308 mm
Length 990 mm
Draught 110 mm
Angle the deck supports 21 at a point 38 mm aft of frame 9, and glue them
to the frames. Rub glue into the underside of the cracks. 21/20
19
9
18
Anchor hawse pockets
Open up the hawse openings in the hull at the marked points. Glue the hawse pockets
6 together, then temporarily tape them in the openings.
Slide the foredeck 64 into position in the hull, and tape it in place. Insert the chain
hawse pipes 7 in the holes in the deck and the hawse pockets 6. Align the hawse
pockets carefully before tacking them in the openings using cyano. Remove the deck
and the pipes 7 again, and apply Stabilit / Acrylit round the hawse pockets. When the
glue has set hard, sand back the excess material flush with the hull.
764
6
7.1
Bilge keels
Mill out the slots for the bilge keels 28; these parts are symmetrical. Trim the slots in the hull to match the ABS parts.
Fit the parts in the slots, and secure them with Stabilit / Acrylit applied on the inside. Use a spacer such as a coffee stirrer between the
bilge keels and the hull to maintain the correct position. Fill any gaps on the outside with glue.
Power system
Various types of power system can be installed; the basic shaft drive system is supplied in the kit. A separate chapter at the end of the instructions
describes the installation of the optional Schottel drive system.
Shaft drive system
Mark the position of the holes in the hull for the rudders and
propeller shafts as shown in the drawing; it is best to use a setsquare
for this. The dimensions for the shaft and shaft bracket openings refer
to the point where the deadwood joins the hull. Measure all the
dimensions along the surface of the hull.
Mark the position of the holes for the rudder bushes: 56 mm from
the rear edge, and 69 mm from the centre. Drill the holes 5 mm Ø. 26
25
24
23
Assemble the parts of the motor mounts 29 and glue the joints.
Apply sanding sealer or epoxy to the surfaces and allow to set hard.
Screw the motors to the mounts.
Various motors can be used. The mounting holes suit 600, 700 and
800 brushed motors, and brushless motors with a 25 mm hole
spacing.
6
7
8
9
10
11
Saw a 2 mm wide lengthwise slot in the skeg tube 37. Glue together the skeg
components 35 - 34 - 35, keeping the parts flush at the rear; this produces a channel
at the front. Bend the brass rod 36 to the shape shown, and glue it to the skeg using
Stabilit / Acrylit.
Fit the shaft bracket 39 onto the stern tube, but do not glue it at this stage.
Fit the skeg tube 37 onto the stern tube, and glue the skeg in the channel using
Stabilit / Acrylit. Drill a 4 mm Ø hole 3 mm deep in the top of the rear lug of each
skeg.
41.1
42 44
41.2
40
Fit the propeller shaft through the hull and connect it to the motor using the shaft coupling. Fit the shaft bracket 39 through the hull. Insert the
rudder in the hull, fitting the bottom end of the rudder blade into the skeg.
Align the whole assembly so that the rudder is exactly vertical. Tape the assembly to the hull in this position. Now tack the rudder bush and the
motor mount to the hull using a few drops of cyano.
Apply epoxy or Stabilit / Acrylit all round the joint between
the motor mount and the hull. Apply tape to the over-
sized holes for the shafts and shaft brackets on the
outside of the hull. The more accurately you do this, the
easier it will be to clean up the glued joints afterwards.
Glue the shaft brackets in place using Stabilit / Acrylit. The
shafts can be glued using epoxy or Stabilit / Acrylit.
Screw the tillers 30 on the rudder shafts. The rudder
system can be operated using one or two servos.
24
29
19 19
Servo mount for shaft drive system
Assemble the servo mount as shown, and glue the joints.
Apply sanding sealer to the assembly and allow to dry, then install the servos.
Glue the servo mount centrally in the hull at a point about 125 mm from the stern,
measured along the bottom of the hull.
Once the servos are in place you can install the rudder pushrods, keepers and pushrod
connectors.
46
49
47
48
48
47
37
39
34-35
36
Drill 4 mm
Roughen the rudder shaft with a file where it
passes through the rudder blade. Glue together the
rudder blade components 41 using Stabilit,
sandwiching the shaft 41.1 between them; it should
project at the bottom by about 4 mm.
Drill a 4 mm hole in the rear of the skeg. Open up
the hole in the hull to 5.0 mm Ø to accept the
rudder bush.
Fit the bush and a bush doubler 40 onto the rudder
shaft, and check it for fit in the hull and the skeg
from the underside. Apply Stabilit round the rudder
bush on the inside of the hull, pressing the second
bush doubler into the adhesive from the top. Allow
the glue to set hard, then turn the hull over and
glue the first bush doubler to the hull and the
rudder bush.
Lightly grease or oil the rudder shaft, and push the
silicone tube half-way onto the bush and half-way
onto the shaft to form a watertight seal. Bend the
final 1 cm of the rudder pushrod 43 at 90°. Engage
it in the tiller, and secure the end with the keeper
44.
41
41.1
12
13
14
15
16
Angle the deck supports 21 at a point 38 mm aft of frame 9, and glue them
to the frames. Rub glue into the underside of the cracks. 21/20
19
9
18
Anchor hawse pockets
Open up the hawse openings in the hull at the marked points. Glue the hawse pockets
6 together, then temporarily tape them in the openings.
Slide the foredeck 64 into position in the hull, and tape it in place. Insert the chain
hawse pipes 7 in the holes in the deck and the hawse pockets 6. Align the hawse
pockets carefully before tacking them in the openings using cyano. Remove the deck
and the pipes 7 again, and apply Stabilit / Acrylit round the hawse pockets. When the
glue has set hard, sand back the excess material flush with the hull.
764
6
7.1
Bilge keels
Mill out the slots for the bilge keels 28; these parts are symmetrical. Trim the slots in the hull to match the ABS parts.
Fit the parts in the slots, and secure them with Stabilit / Acrylit applied on the inside. Use a spacer such as a coffee stirrer between the
bilge keels and the hull to maintain the correct position. Fill any gaps on the outside with glue.
Power system
Various types of power system can be installed; the basic shaft drive system is supplied in the kit. A separate chapter at the end of the instructions
describes the installation of the optional Schottel drive system.
Shaft drive system
Mark the position of the holes in the hull for the rudders and
propeller shafts as shown in the drawing; it is best to use a setsquare
for this. The dimensions for the shaft and shaft bracket openings refer
to the point where the deadwood joins the hull. Measure all the
dimensions along the surface of the hull.
Mark the position of the holes for the rudder bushes: 56 mm from
the rear edge, and 69 mm from the centre. Drill the holes 5 mm Ø. 26
25
24
23
Assemble the parts of the motor mounts 29 and glue the joints.
Apply sanding sealer or epoxy to the surfaces and allow to set hard.
Screw the motors to the mounts.
Various motors can be used. The mounting holes suit 600, 700 and
800 brushed motors, and brushless motors with a 25 mm hole
spacing.
6
7
8
9
10
11
Saw a 2 mm wide lengthwise slot in the skeg tube 37. Glue together the skeg
components 35 - 34 - 35, keeping the parts flush at the rear; this produces a channel
at the front. Bend the brass rod 36 to the shape shown, and glue it to the skeg using
Stabilit / Acrylit.
Fit the shaft bracket 39 onto the stern tube, but do not glue it at this stage.
Fit the skeg tube 37 onto the stern tube, and glue the skeg in the channel using
Stabilit / Acrylit. Drill a 4 mm Ø hole 3 mm deep in the top of the rear lug of each
skeg.
41.1
42 44
41.2
40
Fit the propeller shaft through the hull and connect it to the motor using the shaft coupling. Fit the shaft bracket 39 through the hull. Insert the
rudder in the hull, fitting the bottom end of the rudder blade into the skeg.
Align the whole assembly so that the rudder is exactly vertical. Tape the assembly to the hull in this position. Now tack the rudder bush and the
motor mount to the hull using a few drops of cyano.
Apply epoxy or Stabilit / Acrylit all round the joint between
the motor mount and the hull. Apply tape to the over-
sized holes for the shafts and shaft brackets on the
outside of the hull. The more accurately you do this, the
easier it will be to clean up the glued joints afterwards.
Glue the shaft brackets in place using Stabilit / Acrylit. The
shafts can be glued using epoxy or Stabilit / Acrylit.
Screw the tillers 30 on the rudder shafts. The rudder
system can be operated using one or two servos.
24
29
19 19
Servo mount for shaft drive system
Assemble the servo mount as shown, and glue the joints.
Apply sanding sealer to the assembly and allow to dry, then install the servos.
Glue the servo mount centrally in the hull at a point about 125 mm from the stern,
measured along the bottom of the hull.
Once the servos are in place you can install the rudder pushrods, keepers and pushrod
connectors.
46
49
47
48
48
47
37
39
34-35
36
Drill 4 mm
Roughen the rudder shaft with a file where it
passes through the rudder blade. Glue together the
rudder blade components 41 using Stabilit,
sandwiching the shaft 41.1 between them; it should
project at the bottom by about 4 mm.
Drill a 4 mm hole in the rear of the skeg. Open up
the hole in the hull to 5.0 mm Ø to accept the
rudder bush.
Fit the bush and a bush doubler 40 onto the rudder
shaft, and check it for fit in the hull and the skeg
from the underside. Apply Stabilit round the rudder
bush on the inside of the hull, pressing the second
bush doubler into the adhesive from the top. Allow
the glue to set hard, then turn the hull over and
glue the first bush doubler to the hull and the
rudder bush.
Lightly grease or oil the rudder shaft, and push the
silicone tube half-way onto the bush and half-way
onto the shaft to form a watertight seal. Bend the
final 1 cm of the rudder pushrod 43 at 90°. Engage
it in the tiller, and secure the end with the keeper
44.
41
41.1
12
13
14
15
16
Stern roller
The parts of the stern roller should be glued together as shown in the
drawing. Prepare the cradle by curving it over a table edge or cylindrical
former. Glue parts 51 in the cradle, then glue the bearing plates 55 in the
roller 54. If you wish, 4 x 8 mm ballraces can be fitted in the bearing
support.
The final step is to glue the bearing cover 53 on the end.
Slip the shaft 56 through all the parts to check alignment, and leave it in
place while the glued joints harden.
53
52
51
55
54
50
56
Remove a section 74 x 24 mm in size from the centre of the hull
at the stern, as shown in the drawing, and glue the stern roller
cradle in the opening using Stabilit or Acrylit. Cut back the bulge
in the stern bulwark at an angle of about 24°.
Round off the sides of the bulwark adjacent to the cradle.
Cut out the openings for the scuppers and cable hawses using a
diamond cut-off disc.
The top edge of the deck is the top edge of the fore-and-aft
bulge on the hull.
Glue the main deck supports 57 and doublers 58
together on a flat surface. Don't glue the front and
rear parts together.
The outside edges must line up flush.
Glue the deck supports 57 / 58 in the notches in
the frames.
Apply glue between the two parts, and tape the
area where the supports are angled.
57 58
Main deck
Important: check that the scuppers are cut out as far as the peripheral rubbing strake. The correct scupper height is about 5 mm.
Remove the main deck 59 and remove any rough edges on the rear face.
Press the deck into the hull.
Engage the front lugs in frame 13.
Since the hull is hand-laminated, the wall thickness may vary slightly in the area where the hull meets the bulwark at the level of the peripheral
rubbing strake.
Sand smooth any irregularities in the hull, and trim the deck until it is a snug fit.
The rear face of frame 13 must end flush with the rear scupper and the step in the rubbing strake.
- If you have not installed the stern roller, the deck support 25 can now be glued in place.
- If you have fitted the stern roller, the engraved area of the main deck 59 must first be removed.
Cut a few wedges from the spruce strip 61. Cut the spruce strip 60 into suitable lengths and fit them through the scuppers above the deck. Now
use the wedges to press the deck down. This action presses the framework down onto the bottom of the hull, and the glued joints can now be
completed. The sole purpose of the framework is to support and secure the deck, so there is no need to glue all the joints over their full length.
17
18
19
20
Steps 17 and 18 describe the installation of the stern roller. If you don't wish to install the system, please continue with Step 19.
spring clips
60
Wedges 61
59
64
Allow the glued joints to set hard, then remove the main deck and apply adhesive (Stabilit or Acrylit) to the top edge of the frames. Place the
deck in position again, and secure it using the wedges and rulers or other long strips. Use spring clips to press the deck onto the deck supports
as shown.
Allow the glued joints to set hard, then place the foredeck 64 in position and check that its rear edge lines up flush with frame 13. You may
need to carry out minor trimming to the front area of the deck to achieve this. Remove any irregularities on the inside of the GRP hull. Mark on
the inside of the hull the height of the foredeck support 25, and glue it in place.
Remove the foredeck again.
Now glue the foredeck girders 24 to frame 16. Fit frame 17 in the hull under the deck girders, spaced about 84 mm from frame 16, then glue it
in place with cyano. Apply Stabilit or Acrylit to the top edge of the frames. Place the foredeck in position and secure it as described before
using rulers, wooden strips and wedges.
It is important not to distort the rear end of the deck, otherwise the superstructure will not fit. The inside of the opening must end flush with
the frames. Glue frame 17 in the hull.
Leave all the glued joints to set hard, then remove all the wedges and clamps.
Fill any gaps between hull and deck with Stabilit or Acrylit, immediately wiping away any excess adhesive before it sets using a cloth or
kitchen paper soaked in methylated spirit ('meths'). Check that the slots in the deck for the bulwark stanchions are not blocked with glue. If
they are, immediately open them up with a pointed balsa strip.
The hawse pipes 7 can now be trimmed to fit and glued in place; glue them under the anchor winch 7.1. Lay the hull on one side and apply
spray filler or filler / primer on the inside of the bulwark. Alternatively apply conventional filler paste and sand smooth when dry.
The deckhouse coaming is fitted next, but not before the lower section of the deckhouse is built.
Deckhouse
Place the base plate on a flat surface, and glue
the individual sheet components to it following
the sequence of the part numbers. Note that all
the parts have tabs and slots which only fit one
way round. Make the superstructure fillets 70
from the tube material: quarter the tubes
lengthwise and trim them to fit.
Repeat the procedure with the upper
superstructure fillets 71.
Parts 84 and 85 butt together at the top.
Trim the upper superstructure fillets to fit as
shown.
Assemble the companionway 86; it will be
glued to the angled wall 79, but only after the
lower deckhouse has been painted.
73
79 85 75
66 78 74 85 71
70
66
72
84
67
71
85
85 66
66
81
77
76 69 68
83
65 82
86
21
22
23
24
Stern roller
The parts of the stern roller should be glued together as shown in the
drawing. Prepare the cradle by curving it over a table edge or cylindrical
former. Glue parts 51 in the cradle, then glue the bearing plates 55 in the
roller 54. If you wish, 4 x 8 mm ballraces can be fitted in the bearing
support.
The final step is to glue the bearing cover 53 on the end.
Slip the shaft 56 through all the parts to check alignment, and leave it in
place while the glued joints harden.
53
52
51
55
54
50
56
Remove a section 74 x 24 mm in size from the centre of the hull
at the stern, as shown in the drawing, and glue the stern roller
cradle in the opening using Stabilit or Acrylit. Cut back the bulge
in the stern bulwark at an angle of about 24°.
Round off the sides of the bulwark adjacent to the cradle.
Cut out the openings for the scuppers and cable hawses using a
diamond cut-off disc.
The top edge of the deck is the top edge of the fore-and-aft
bulge on the hull.
Glue the main deck supports 57 and doublers 58
together on a flat surface. Don't glue the front and
rear parts together.
The outside edges must line up flush.
Glue the deck supports 57 / 58 in the notches in
the frames.
Apply glue between the two parts, and tape the
area where the supports are angled.
57 58
Main deck
Important: check that the scuppers are cut out as far as the peripheral rubbing strake. The correct scupper height is about 5 mm.
Remove the main deck 59 and remove any rough edges on the rear face.
Press the deck into the hull.
Engage the front lugs in frame 13.
Since the hull is hand-laminated, the wall thickness may vary slightly in the area where the hull meets the bulwark at the level of the peripheral
rubbing strake.
Sand smooth any irregularities in the hull, and trim the deck until it is a snug fit.
The rear face of frame 13 must end flush with the rear scupper and the step in the rubbing strake.
- If you have not installed the stern roller, the deck support 25 can now be glued in place.
- If you have fitted the stern roller, the engraved area of the main deck 59 must first be removed.
Cut a few wedges from the spruce strip 61. Cut the spruce strip 60 into suitable lengths and fit them through the scuppers above the deck. Now
use the wedges to press the deck down. This action presses the framework down onto the bottom of the hull, and the glued joints can now be
completed. The sole purpose of the framework is to support and secure the deck, so there is no need to glue all the joints over their full length.
17
18
19
20
Steps 17 and 18 describe the installation of the stern roller. If you don't wish to install the system, please continue with Step 19.
spring clips
60
Wedges 61
59
64
Allow the glued joints to set hard, then remove the main deck and apply adhesive (Stabilit or Acrylit) to the top edge of the frames. Place the
deck in position again, and secure it using the wedges and rulers or other long strips. Use spring clips to press the deck onto the deck supports
as shown.
Allow the glued joints to set hard, then place the foredeck 64 in position and check that its rear edge lines up flush with frame 13. You may
need to carry out minor trimming to the front area of the deck to achieve this. Remove any irregularities on the inside of the GRP hull. Mark on
the inside of the hull the height of the foredeck support 25, and glue it in place.
Remove the foredeck again.
Now glue the foredeck girders 24 to frame 16. Fit frame 17 in the hull under the deck girders, spaced about 84 mm from frame 16, then glue it
in place with cyano. Apply Stabilit or Acrylit to the top edge of the frames. Place the foredeck in position and secure it as described before
using rulers, wooden strips and wedges.
It is important not to distort the rear end of the deck, otherwise the superstructure will not fit. The inside of the opening must end flush with
the frames. Glue frame 17 in the hull.
Leave all the glued joints to set hard, then remove all the wedges and clamps.
Fill any gaps between hull and deck with Stabilit or Acrylit, immediately wiping away any excess adhesive before it sets using a cloth or
kitchen paper soaked in methylated spirit ('meths'). Check that the slots in the deck for the bulwark stanchions are not blocked with glue. If
they are, immediately open them up with a pointed balsa strip.
The hawse pipes 7 can now be trimmed to fit and glued in place; glue them under the anchor winch 7.1. Lay the hull on one side and apply
spray filler or filler / primer on the inside of the bulwark. Alternatively apply conventional filler paste and sand smooth when dry.
The deckhouse coaming is fitted next, but not before the lower section of the deckhouse is built.
Deckhouse
Place the base plate on a flat surface, and glue
the individual sheet components to it following
the sequence of the part numbers. Note that all
the parts have tabs and slots which only fit one
way round. Make the superstructure fillets 70
from the tube material: quarter the tubes
lengthwise and trim them to fit.
Repeat the procedure with the upper
superstructure fillets 71.
Parts 84 and 85 butt together at the top.
Trim the upper superstructure fillets to fit as
shown.
Assemble the companionway 86; it will be
glued to the angled wall 79, but only after the
lower deckhouse has been painted.
73
79 85 75
66 78 74 85 71
70
66
72
84
67
71
85
85 66
66
81
77
76 69 68
83
65 82
86
21
22
23
24
The deckhouse is now used as an aid in installing the
coaming in the foredeck.
Separate the coaming 87 and remove any rough edges.
Place the coaming on the foredeck girder 23, press it
against the foredeck and secure it with a strip of tape.
Push the coaming into the corner with a piece of dowel
of around 10 mm Ø, and bend the radius to fit snugly.
Secure it with adhesive tape, then bend the other corner
in the same way. The coaming should now be an accurate
fit in the deck opening.
Remove the adhesive tape.
Adhesive tape
Dowel
87
Apply a strip of tape all round the
bottom of the deckhouse; this
protects it, and also simulates the
thickness of a coat of paint. Fit the
deckhouse into the coaming 87; this
action presses it against the deck.
The coaming is glued to the deck
using UHU Plast Spezial, whose
narrow nozzle is used to apply the
adhesive accurately in the joint line
between foredeck and coaming.
Leave the deckhouse in place until the
glue has set hard.
Adhesive tape
87
Bulwark stanchions
The bulwark stanchions have to be trimmed to fit individually. The numbering of the etched parts starts in the centre of the foredeck with No. 1,
and increments towards the stern. The bulwark stanchion numbers are marked on the drawing in red. They are not stated individually in the
Parts List; all of them are grouped together as Part 88.
The bulwark stanchions are the same right and left, i.e. opposite stanchions bear the same number.
Separate only the stanchion you are currently working on. If you have fitted a stern roller, then the stern bulwark stanchions must be trimmed to
suit.
If your trimming of the deck has moved the slots out of position, it is possible to re-position them by heating the etched parts lightly and
pressing them into the deck.
Be sure to use pliers to hold and insert the stanchions.
The bulwark stanchions must end flush with the top of the hull. You may need to adjust their height slightly depending on the actual position of
the deck.
16
15
10
1
5
25
26
27
15
33 30
20
25
93
Insert the supports 91 in the foredeck. Separate the bulwark reinforcement 90 and the bow reinforcement 89. Fit the bow reinforcement 89
on the supports 91. Cut the two bollard tubes 94 to length and fit them through the bow reinforcement and into the deck to aid alignment.
The centre part of the reinforcement 90 can now be fitted; it should project by about 1 mm, and the bollard tubes should stand vertical.
Glue the bow reinforcement 89 and the bulwark reinforcement 90 in place.
Starting at the forward step, tack the rear handrail 93 to the bulwark with a few drops of cyano, working towards the stern.
The handrail should overhang by about 1 mm on the outside. Lay a wide strip of similar thickness on both sides of the bulwark to ensure that
the handrail is level and central.
When one side is finished, lay the hull on its side and run cyano along the joint to strengthen it.
Repeat the procedure with the other side.
Glue the forward handrail to the bulwark starting at the step and working forward. Trim the two angled handrails 90.1 to fit between the
handrail 92 and the bulwark reinforcement 90.
Assemble six bollards as shown in the drawing alongside.
Door portholes can also be used as spare bollard caps, as their diameter
is the same.
Drill a 5.0 mm Ø hole in one end of the tubes 94, and glue the cross-
pieces 98 in them. Insert them in the base plate 96 - without glue - to
check alignment.
Do not glue the base plate yet, as it has to be trimmed to match the
angle of the deck surface.
Allow the bollards to dry, then fit them in the appropriate holes in the
deck. Adjust the holes in the base plates if necessary, align the bollards
carefully and glue them to the tubes. Don't glue the bollards to the deck
until they have been painted.
95
98
97
96
28
29
1
91 94 90
90.1 89
92
The deckhouse is now used as an aid in installing the
coaming in the foredeck.
Separate the coaming 87 and remove any rough edges.
Place the coaming on the foredeck girder 23, press it
against the foredeck and secure it with a strip of tape.
Push the coaming into the corner with a piece of dowel
of around 10 mm Ø, and bend the radius to fit snugly.
Secure it with adhesive tape, then bend the other corner
in the same way. The coaming should now be an accurate
fit in the deck opening.
Remove the adhesive tape.
Adhesive tape
Dowel
87
Apply a strip of tape all round the
bottom of the deckhouse; this
protects it, and also simulates the
thickness of a coat of paint. Fit the
deckhouse into the coaming 87; this
action presses it against the deck.
The coaming is glued to the deck
using UHU Plast Spezial, whose
narrow nozzle is used to apply the
adhesive accurately in the joint line
between foredeck and coaming.
Leave the deckhouse in place until the
glue has set hard.
Adhesive tape
87
Bulwark stanchions
The bulwark stanchions have to be trimmed to fit individually. The numbering of the etched parts starts in the centre of the foredeck with No. 1,
and increments towards the stern. The bulwark stanchion numbers are marked on the drawing in red. They are not stated individually in the
Parts List; all of them are grouped together as Part 88.
The bulwark stanchions are the same right and left, i.e. opposite stanchions bear the same number.
Separate only the stanchion you are currently working on. If you have fitted a stern roller, then the stern bulwark stanchions must be trimmed to
suit.
If your trimming of the deck has moved the slots out of position, it is possible to re-position them by heating the etched parts lightly and
pressing them into the deck.
Be sure to use pliers to hold and insert the stanchions.
The bulwark stanchions must end flush with the top of the hull. You may need to adjust their height slightly depending on the actual position of
the deck.
16
15
10
1
5
25
26
27
15
33 30
20
25
93
Insert the supports 91 in the foredeck. Separate the bulwark reinforcement 90 and the bow reinforcement 89. Fit the bow reinforcement 89
on the supports 91. Cut the two bollard tubes 94 to length and fit them through the bow reinforcement and into the deck to aid alignment.
The centre part of the reinforcement 90 can now be fitted; it should project by about 1 mm, and the bollard tubes should stand vertical.
Glue the bow reinforcement 89 and the bulwark reinforcement 90 in place.
Starting at the forward step, tack the rear handrail 93 to the bulwark with a few drops of cyano, working towards the stern.
The handrail should overhang by about 1 mm on the outside. Lay a wide strip of similar thickness on both sides of the bulwark to ensure that
the handrail is level and central.
When one side is finished, lay the hull on its side and run cyano along the joint to strengthen it.
Repeat the procedure with the other side.
Glue the forward handrail to the bulwark starting at the step and working forward. Trim the two angled handrails 90.1 to fit between the
handrail 92 and the bulwark reinforcement 90.
Assemble six bollards as shown in the drawing alongside.
Door portholes can also be used as spare bollard caps, as their diameter
is the same.
Drill a 5.0 mm Ø hole in one end of the tubes 94, and glue the cross-
pieces 98 in them. Insert them in the base plate 96 - without glue - to
check alignment.
Do not glue the base plate yet, as it has to be trimmed to match the
angle of the deck surface.
Allow the bollards to dry, then fit them in the appropriate holes in the
deck. Adjust the holes in the base plates if necessary, align the bollards
carefully and glue them to the tubes. Don't glue the bollards to the deck
until they have been painted.
95
98
97
96
28
29
1
91 94 90
90.1 89
92
Assemble the foredeck emergency exit by gluing together parts 99 - 103.
Two switches with 6 mm shafts can be installed in the floor 99, e.g. for activating
the model batteries.
Glue the hinge components 104 to the cover 105. Bend the handle 106 to the
shape shown, and glue it in place. Connect the cover to the housing using the
hinge pin 107.
106
105
104
102
100
101
100 107
103
At this stage the hull and deck can be painted. Place the model in its stand in the position shown in the drawing, and mark the Construction
Water Line (CWL) all round the hull. Mask off the threaded part of the propeller shafts. The model can now be painted in the colour scheme of
your choice. Glue the bollards and the exit hatch on the foredeck.
Deckhouse
Leave the window blanks in the sheet panels for
the moment; this eliminates the tedious task of
masking off the inside and outside when painting.
Do not remove the small tabs in the windows, as
they serve as spacers when fitting the glazing
panels later.
118
95 112
113
114
117
116
115
113
121
110 (111)
109
108
120
30
31
32
Complete the connecting wall 108 by fitting the doors 109. Glue this assembly in
the wall 82.
Complete the rear superstructure wall 110 with the doors 111, and glue it to the
floor 65 and the wall 108. The outer wall 113 of the exhaust pillar fits in the
same slot from the rear.
Tape the outer walls 113 and 116 of the exhaust pillar, and angle them slightly.
Glue them to part 110.
Fit the rear wall 114, and glue the doors 115 at the bottom.
Insert the lower wall 116 and the glazed wall 117 between the walls of the
exhaust pillars.
Tape parts 116 and 117 together, and glue these two walls to the floor 65 from
the inside.
Tape together parts 114 and 117, and glue the joint on the inside. Remove the
tape when the glue has set hard, and seal the narrow gap on the outside with
UHU Plast Spezial. The small nozzle of the adhesive bottle helps to keep the glue
in the correct place.
Fit part 119 (servo mount) in part 113. Insert the outer wall 120 and the
companionway support 121, then glue all the joints.
112
114
113
119 65
108
111
110
82
109
Assemble the fire-fighting bridge from parts 128 -
131 as shown in the drawing alongside.
Glue the bridge to the exhaust pillars.
The superstructure can now be painted. 130 129
131
128
Assemble the four cylinders from parts 126 / 127 as shown in the
drawing. 127 126
Glue the frames 123 to the exhaust pillars.
Glue the lugs 125 to the covers 124.
Drill 1 mm Ø holes in the pillars for the wires 127, adjacent to the
frame.
When the cylinders are complete, the covers can be glued to the
pillars.
If you wish to paint the grilles 208, do this before installing them.
125
124
127
123
208
126
33
34
35
36
Assemble the foredeck emergency exit by gluing together parts 99 - 103.
Two switches with 6 mm shafts can be installed in the floor 99, e.g. for activating
the model batteries.
Glue the hinge components 104 to the cover 105. Bend the handle 106 to the
shape shown, and glue it in place. Connect the cover to the housing using the
hinge pin 107.
106
105
104
102
100
101
100 107
103
At this stage the hull and deck can be painted. Place the model in its stand in the position shown in the drawing, and mark the Construction
Water Line (CWL) all round the hull. Mask off the threaded part of the propeller shafts. The model can now be painted in the colour scheme of
your choice. Glue the bollards and the exit hatch on the foredeck.
Deckhouse
Leave the window blanks in the sheet panels for
the moment; this eliminates the tedious task of
masking off the inside and outside when painting.
Do not remove the small tabs in the windows, as
they serve as spacers when fitting the glazing
panels later.
118
95 112
113
114
117
116
115
113
121
110 (111)
109
108
120
30
31
32
Complete the connecting wall 108 by fitting the doors 109. Glue this assembly in
the wall 82.
Complete the rear superstructure wall 110 with the doors 111, and glue it to the
floor 65 and the wall 108. The outer wall 113 of the exhaust pillar fits in the
same slot from the rear.
Tape the outer walls 113 and 116 of the exhaust pillar, and angle them slightly.
Glue them to part 110.
Fit the rear wall 114, and glue the doors 115 at the bottom.
Insert the lower wall 116 and the glazed wall 117 between the walls of the
exhaust pillars.
Tape parts 116 and 117 together, and glue these two walls to the floor 65 from
the inside.
Tape together parts 114 and 117, and glue the joint on the inside. Remove the
tape when the glue has set hard, and seal the narrow gap on the outside with
UHU Plast Spezial. The small nozzle of the adhesive bottle helps to keep the glue
in the correct place.
Fit part 119 (servo mount) in part 113. Insert the outer wall 120 and the
companionway support 121, then glue all the joints.
112
114
113
119 65
108
111
110
82
109
Assemble the fire-fighting bridge from parts 128 -
131 as shown in the drawing alongside.
Glue the bridge to the exhaust pillars.
The superstructure can now be painted. 130 129
131
128
Assemble the four cylinders from parts 126 / 127 as shown in the
drawing. 127 126
Glue the frames 123 to the exhaust pillars.
Glue the lugs 125 to the covers 124.
Drill 1 mm Ø holes in the pillars for the wires 127, adjacent to the
frame.
When the cylinders are complete, the covers can be glued to the
pillars.
If you wish to paint the grilles 208, do this before installing them.
125
124
127
123
208
126
33
34
35
36
Recess
Divide the two exhaust pipes 132 and 133 centrally at an
angle of 45°, and glue them in the rear face of the exhaust
pillars.
The two servos required for rotating the fire monitors can now
be screwed to the underside of the servo mounts 119.
132
133
134
119
Fire monitors
Please take care to follow the sequence of the illustrations when
assembling the monitors.
Clean all the parts with warm soapy water and a brush to remove
any excess material, as it could come loose later and block the
monitors when they are operating.
Cut a slot about 3 - 4 mm deep on one side of the 3.0 mm brass
tube (2) at the top. Fit the tube in the bottom section (1); it should
project at the top by about 1 mm.
Glue together the top and bottom sections (1 + 3); thick cyano is
the best adhesive to use for these joints.
Thread the column (4) onto the 3 mm tube and glue the parts
together.
Push the 4.0 mm tube (5) into the bottom of the column (4) as far
as it will go, and glue the joint. Glue the spindle bridge (7) to the
top section (3), and glue the handwheel (8) to the spigot.
Fit the base (6) as shown, taking care not to glue it to the monitor
column or the tube, as it acts as the pivot bearing.
Glue together the jet nozzle and the spray nozzle.
The diameter of the front holes in the spray nozzle is 0.6 mm. You
may need to drill them out.
Glue the nozzle you wish to use in the main monitor body.
When painting the monitors take care to prevent paint blocking
the holes.
1
2
37
8
4
6
5
1
23
37
38
39
Installing the glazing panels
Don't remove the tabs in the sides of the glazing panels, as they help to align the
panels. Remove the protective film from one face of the glazing panel, leaving the
other in place.
Apply a small amount of adhesive to the back of the window frame (etched part).
Place the panel in position centrally, leaving a recess all round; apply a little glue
in the recess and insert the glazing panel in the painted wall.
From the inside the gap can safely be filled with a little adhesive, as the film
protects the panel from smearing. The inner film can be peeled off when the glue
is dry.
Note regarding adhesive: don't use cyano, as this always produces a milky 'bloom'
some time after drying.
Instead use clear contact cement, e.g. Canopy Glue (water-based), UHU Hart
Plastic or UHU extra.
The windows in the side walls 66 do not have etched frames; only the forward
windows in part 67 have frames.
10 9
4
10 9
6
41
2
8
7
53
1 Bottom section
2 Brass tube, 3.0 / 2.1 x 12 mm
3 Top section
4 Monitor column
5 Brass tube, 4.0 / 3.1 x 100 mm
6 Base
7 Spindle bridge
8 Handwheel, laser-cut
9 Jet nozzle
10 Spray nozzle
A good method of swivelling the monitors is to fit pulleys on the brass tube and drive them from a servo using rubber bands. In this case the hole
in the servo mount should be fitted with a plain bush or ballrace. The fire monitor drive components are not included in the kit.
The pump can be installed aft of the battery support 22 on the bottom of the hull. The intake nipple (tube Ø to suit your pump) should be glued aft
of the pump on the centreline of the hull, projecting by 1 mm on the outside. Glue it in place on both sides of the hull.
Superstructure deck
Lay scrap pieces of 1.5 mm ABS sheet under the superstructure deck 138 to act as spacers.
Glue the base rails 139 to the edges of the deck; four separate parts are required on each side. The mitred joints must be trimmed individually. Add
the forward base rail, followed by the rear rail. The latter must not project at the sides, since it has to fit between the exhaust pillars.
140
139
138
Steel strip
Magnet
One option for making the deck detachable is to secure it with magnets; these are not included in the kit. The retaining magnets do not need to
be excessively strong.
Glue the magnet supports 140 in the corners of the superstructure to suit the thickness of the magnets you wish to use. When fitting the magnets
check that they do not block the openings for the railing stanchions. Glue the magnets in place. A piece of tinplate from a tin can is all you need
on the opposite face.
Lay the strip of metal on the magnet and apply adhesive to the exposed surface. Lay the deck on top and allow the glue to set hard.
The superstructure deck can now be painted.
40
41
42
Recess
Divide the two exhaust pipes 132 and 133 centrally at an
angle of 45°, and glue them in the rear face of the exhaust
pillars.
The two servos required for rotating the fire monitors can now
be screwed to the underside of the servo mounts 119.
132
133
134
119
Fire monitors
Please take care to follow the sequence of the illustrations when
assembling the monitors.
Clean all the parts with warm soapy water and a brush to remove
any excess material, as it could come loose later and block the
monitors when they are operating.
Cut a slot about 3 - 4 mm deep on one side of the 3.0 mm brass
tube (2) at the top. Fit the tube in the bottom section (1); it should
project at the top by about 1 mm.
Glue together the top and bottom sections (1 + 3); thick cyano is
the best adhesive to use for these joints.
Thread the column (4) onto the 3 mm tube and glue the parts
together.
Push the 4.0 mm tube (5) into the bottom of the column (4) as far
as it will go, and glue the joint. Glue the spindle bridge (7) to the
top section (3), and glue the handwheel (8) to the spigot.
Fit the base (6) as shown, taking care not to glue it to the monitor
column or the tube, as it acts as the pivot bearing.
Glue together the jet nozzle and the spray nozzle.
The diameter of the front holes in the spray nozzle is 0.6 mm. You
may need to drill them out.
Glue the nozzle you wish to use in the main monitor body.
When painting the monitors take care to prevent paint blocking
the holes.
1
2
37
8
4
6
5
1
23
37
38
39
Installing the glazing panels
Don't remove the tabs in the sides of the glazing panels, as they help to align the
panels. Remove the protective film from one face of the glazing panel, leaving the
other in place.
Apply a small amount of adhesive to the back of the window frame (etched part).
Place the panel in position centrally, leaving a recess all round; apply a little glue
in the recess and insert the glazing panel in the painted wall.
From the inside the gap can safely be filled with a little adhesive, as the film
protects the panel from smearing. The inner film can be peeled off when the glue
is dry.
Note regarding adhesive: don't use cyano, as this always produces a milky 'bloom'
some time after drying.
Instead use clear contact cement, e.g. Canopy Glue (water-based), UHU Hart
Plastic or UHU extra.
The windows in the side walls 66 do not have etched frames; only the forward
windows in part 67 have frames.
10 9
4
10 9
6
41
2
8
7
53
1 Bottom section
2 Brass tube, 3.0 / 2.1 x 12 mm
3 Top section
4 Monitor column
5 Brass tube, 4.0 / 3.1 x 100 mm
6 Base
7 Spindle bridge
8 Handwheel, laser-cut
9 Jet nozzle
10 Spray nozzle
A good method of swivelling the monitors is to fit pulleys on the brass tube and drive them from a servo using rubber bands. In this case the hole
in the servo mount should be fitted with a plain bush or ballrace. The fire monitor drive components are not included in the kit.
The pump can be installed aft of the battery support 22 on the bottom of the hull. The intake nipple (tube Ø to suit your pump) should be glued aft
of the pump on the centreline of the hull, projecting by 1 mm on the outside. Glue it in place on both sides of the hull.
Superstructure deck
Lay scrap pieces of 1.5 mm ABS sheet under the superstructure deck 138 to act as spacers.
Glue the base rails 139 to the edges of the deck; four separate parts are required on each side. The mitred joints must be trimmed individually. Add
the forward base rail, followed by the rear rail. The latter must not project at the sides, since it has to fit between the exhaust pillars.
140
139
138
Steel strip
Magnet
One option for making the deck detachable is to secure it with magnets; these are not included in the kit. The retaining magnets do not need to
be excessively strong.
Glue the magnet supports 140 in the corners of the superstructure to suit the thickness of the magnets you wish to use. When fitting the magnets
check that they do not block the openings for the railing stanchions. Glue the magnets in place. A piece of tinplate from a tin can is all you need
on the opposite face.
Lay the strip of metal on the magnet and apply adhesive to the exposed surface. Lay the deck on top and allow the glue to set hard.
The superstructure deck can now be painted.
40
41
42
Wheelhouse
Separate the lower mounting frame 141. Separate the lower wheelhouse walls by removing the tabs at the joint positions. Tape the parts together
and insert them in the mounting frame before gluing the joints on the inside.
The floor 150 can be inserted to stiffen the structure, but do not glue it to the walls at this stage.
Tape the window frames 146 - 149 together, and insert them in the upper mounting frame 151; glue the joints on the inside. Remove the tape
over the joints, and apply more glue on the outside of both assemblies.
141
142
145
142
143
142 144
150 142
143
149 146
149
147
148
149
146
145
The interior fittings can now be glued to the floor 150. We recommend that you do not glue these parts to the walls at this stage, as this makes
subsequent painting easier, since the floor complete with fittings can still be removed. The struts 153 and 165 are glued vertically to the centre
console 155, and the centre panel 164 to the underside of the control desks.
162
163
164 163
150
144
152
142
143
145
161
160
157
154
154
152 142
156
155
159
157
145
161
144
Remove the base plate complete with fittings before continuing work on the
wheelhouse. The insert can now be painted, and the control desk completed with
the etched parts.
Tape the upper panels of the window frames 146 - 149 together as already
described, and insert them in the mounting frame 151. Glue the joints on the
inside.
Fit the roof 166 in the roof opening together with the navigation lamp supports,
followed by the supports for the side ladders.
You may need to chamfer the upper edges of the roof to allow it to be fitted
horizontally.
Glue the roof in place from the inside.
Glue the lamp brackets 167 in place.
151
149
146
166
147 149
146
149
148
149
167
Bevel
Joining the lower and centre sections.
Bevel the inside of the lower mounting frame 141 at an angle of about 13°
over half the material thickness.
Tape the upper and lower sections together on the outside. Slide the frame
over the joint line, and glue the parts together on the inside.
You can stiffen the structure by adjusting the position of the floor.
43
44
45
46
170 168
169
171
141
Any remaining gaps can now be made good using polyester filler paste. Paint the
wheelhouse inside and out.
Installing the glazing panels
Don't remove the tabs in the sides of the glazing panels, as they help to align the panels. Remove the
protective film from one face of the glazing panel, leaving the other in place.
Apply a small amount of adhesive to the back of the window frame (etched part).
Place the panel in position centrally, and leave the glue to dry for about ten minutes.
Apply a little glue in the recess and insert the glazing panel in the painted wall.
From the inside the gap can safely be filled with a little adhesive, as the film protects the panel from
smearing. Peel off the inner film when the glue is dry.
Recess
Note regarding adhesive: don't use cyano, as this always produces a milky 'bloom' some
time after drying.
Instead use clear contact cement, e.g. Canopy Glue (water-based), UHU Hart Plastic or UHU extra.
Complete all the doors with the appropriate latches or
turnbuckles 172.
47
48
49
50
51
When all the glued joints have dried fully, the door frame
components 168 and 169 can be glued in the wheelhouse.
Glue the wall 170 to the frame and the lower wall from the
inside. Glue the door 171 in the door opening. Tape together
the lower part of the wheelhouse and the roof section. Slide
the upper mounting frame over the joint line, and glue the
joints on the inside. Leave all the glued joints to set hard,
then remove the mounting frame and peel off the tape.
Fill any gaps on the outside of the structure with adhesive.
Leave the glue to dry and repeat the process if necessary.
Sand the joint areas with a file or a foam sanding block using
a circular motion; this method produces sharp corners.
Wheelhouse
Separate the lower mounting frame 141. Separate the lower wheelhouse walls by removing the tabs at the joint positions. Tape the parts together
and insert them in the mounting frame before gluing the joints on the inside.
The floor 150 can be inserted to stiffen the structure, but do not glue it to the walls at this stage.
Tape the window frames 146 - 149 together, and insert them in the upper mounting frame 151; glue the joints on the inside. Remove the tape
over the joints, and apply more glue on the outside of both assemblies.
141
142
145
142
143
142 144
150 142
143
149 146
149
147
148
149
146
145
The interior fittings can now be glued to the floor 150. We recommend that you do not glue these parts to the walls at this stage, as this makes
subsequent painting easier, since the floor complete with fittings can still be removed. The struts 153 and 165 are glued vertically to the centre
console 155, and the centre panel 164 to the underside of the control desks.
162
163
164 163
150
144
152
142
143
145
161
160
157
154
154
152 142
156
155
159
157
145
161
144
Remove the base plate complete with fittings before continuing work on the
wheelhouse. The insert can now be painted, and the control desk completed with
the etched parts.
Tape the upper panels of the window frames 146 - 149 together as already
described, and insert them in the mounting frame 151. Glue the joints on the
inside.
Fit the roof 166 in the roof opening together with the navigation lamp supports,
followed by the supports for the side ladders.
You may need to chamfer the upper edges of the roof to allow it to be fitted
horizontally.
Glue the roof in place from the inside.
Glue the lamp brackets 167 in place.
151
149
146
166
147 149
146
149
148
149
167
Bevel
Joining the lower and centre sections.
Bevel the inside of the lower mounting frame 141 at an angle of about 13°
over half the material thickness.
Tape the upper and lower sections together on the outside. Slide the frame
over the joint line, and glue the parts together on the inside.
You can stiffen the structure by adjusting the position of the floor.
43
44
45
46
170 168
169
171
141
Any remaining gaps can now be made good using polyester filler paste. Paint the
wheelhouse inside and out.
Installing the glazing panels
Don't remove the tabs in the sides of the glazing panels, as they help to align the panels. Remove the
protective film from one face of the glazing panel, leaving the other in place.
Apply a small amount of adhesive to the back of the window frame (etched part).
Place the panel in position centrally, and leave the glue to dry for about ten minutes.
Apply a little glue in the recess and insert the glazing panel in the painted wall.
From the inside the gap can safely be filled with a little adhesive, as the film protects the panel from
smearing. Peel off the inner film when the glue is dry.
Recess
Note regarding adhesive: don't use cyano, as this always produces a milky 'bloom' some
time after drying.
Instead use clear contact cement, e.g. Canopy Glue (water-based), UHU Hart Plastic or UHU extra.
Complete all the doors with the appropriate latches or
turnbuckles 172.
47
48
49
50
51
When all the glued joints have dried fully, the door frame
components 168 and 169 can be glued in the wheelhouse.
Glue the wall 170 to the frame and the lower wall from the
inside. Glue the door 171 in the door opening. Tape together
the lower part of the wheelhouse and the roof section. Slide
the upper mounting frame over the joint line, and glue the
joints on the inside. Leave all the glued joints to set hard,
then remove the mounting frame and peel off the tape.
Fill any gaps on the outside of the structure with adhesive.
Leave the glue to dry and repeat the process if necessary.
Sand the joint areas with a file or a foam sanding block using
a circular motion; this method produces sharp corners.
Mast
Assemble the mast base as shown in the drawing at the bottom.
Part 174 (left) is not shown in the interests of clarity.
Glue parts 178 to the tubular mast.
Fit the piston 181 through the cylinder 180, and glue parts 182 and
183 to the ends as shown.
We recommend that you paint all these parts before gluing them to the
roof.
175
178
174
179
182 181
180
183
177
176
173
On the full-size vessels the mast is usually lowered only to
replace a lamp or repair an aerial.
Drill a 3.0 mm hole through the mast 184 for the shaft 179.
Drill 2.0 mm holes through the mast for the aerial bracket 187
and the flag holder 190.
Slip the lamp brackets onto the mast and glue them in place.
Glue the gussets to the mast and the underside of the lamp
brackets.
Holes for the lamp cables can be drilled below the brackets.
Thread the cables into the mast under part 176 and down
through the cable tube into the superstructure.
The lamp housings are assembled as shown in the drawing
alongside.
The housings are designed to accept 3
mm LEDs.
Ankerlanterne (weiss) Anchor lamp (white)
Toplanterne (weiss) Masthead lamp (white)
Schlepplanterne (weiss) Towing lamp (white)
Rundumlanterne (rot) Panoramic lamp (red)
192
193
191
193
191
The mast can now be painted, then fitted with the LEDs and
lamp housings.
Mount the mast and base. Glue the raising cylinder brackets
178 to the mast. The whole assembly can now be glued to the
roof.
Assemble the radar units and paint them.
We recommend that the radar units should only be installed
when the railings have been completed.
198
196
194
196
195
198
52
53
54
Soldering
It is important to use an iron of adequate rating for soldering the railings. We recommend at least a 48 W tool. A high temperature should
also be set in order to avoid overheating the parts. This approach delivers a large quantity of heat at the joint position in the shortest time,
and helps the solder to flow well.
A good means of protecting the deck is to lay a double layer of kitchen cloth on the surface, and insert the railing stanchions through it.
Dampen the cloth well before soldering. This protects the painted plastic surfaces from heat and solder splashes.
Companionways
The strings (side parts) and treads are supplied as one-piece etched components.
The flanges for the railing stanchions are also part of these components.
Be sure to bend the parts in the direction of the etched-in grooves, as this
prevents them breaking.
Bend the strings over at 90°, then bend the stanchion flanges down at 90°. Since
the handrail and lower rail pass through the stanchions at an angle, the holes in
these stanchions (203) are oval in shape. These stanchions are located in the
etched parts sheet inside the window frames.
The companionway handrails and lower rails are cut from 0.8 mm Ø brass rod.
201
202
199
203
205
205
207 206
Towing lightStern light
203
199
204
Bend the two companionways 199 to shape, and insert the railing stanchions 203. Solder the stanchions and the bend lines on the
underside. Bend the treads to the horizontal position. Position the companionways as close to the side of the hull as possible, otherwise
they may break off when the superstructure is raised. Glue the companionways in place with small amounts of cyano.
Assemble the long companionway running to the superstructure deck in the manner already described, inserting the handrail and lower
rail in the exhaust pillar. Glue them to the companionway support. The companionway should not rest on part 121; the soldered joint
between the handrails, the lower rails and the railing is quite strong enough.
55
56
57
Mast
Assemble the mast base as shown in the drawing at the bottom.
Part 174 (left) is not shown in the interests of clarity.
Glue parts 178 to the tubular mast.
Fit the piston 181 through the cylinder 180, and glue parts 182 and
183 to the ends as shown.
We recommend that you paint all these parts before gluing them to the
roof.
175
178
174
179
182 181
180
183
177
176
173
On the full-size vessels the mast is usually lowered only to
replace a lamp or repair an aerial.
Drill a 3.0 mm hole through the mast 184 for the shaft 179.
Drill 2.0 mm holes through the mast for the aerial bracket 187
and the flag holder 190.
Slip the lamp brackets onto the mast and glue them in place.
Glue the gussets to the mast and the underside of the lamp
brackets.
Holes for the lamp cables can be drilled below the brackets.
Thread the cables into the mast under part 176 and down
through the cable tube into the superstructure.
The lamp housings are assembled as shown in the drawing
alongside.
The housings are designed to accept 3
mm LEDs.
Ankerlanterne (weiss) Anchor lamp (white)
Toplanterne (weiss) Masthead lamp (white)
Schlepplanterne (weiss) Towing lamp (white)
Rundumlanterne (rot) Panoramic lamp (red)
192
193
191
193
191
The mast can now be painted, then fitted with the LEDs and
lamp housings.
Mount the mast and base. Glue the raising cylinder brackets
178 to the mast. The whole assembly can now be glued to the
roof.
Assemble the radar units and paint them.
We recommend that the radar units should only be installed
when the railings have been completed.
198
196
194
196
195
198
52
53
54
Soldering
It is important to use an iron of adequate rating for soldering the railings. We recommend at least a 48 W tool. A high temperature should
also be set in order to avoid overheating the parts. This approach delivers a large quantity of heat at the joint position in the shortest time,
and helps the solder to flow well.
A good means of protecting the deck is to lay a double layer of kitchen cloth on the surface, and insert the railing stanchions through it.
Dampen the cloth well before soldering. This protects the painted plastic surfaces from heat and solder splashes.
Companionways
The strings (side parts) and treads are supplied as one-piece etched components.
The flanges for the railing stanchions are also part of these components.
Be sure to bend the parts in the direction of the etched-in grooves, as this
prevents them breaking.
Bend the strings over at 90°, then bend the stanchion flanges down at 90°. Since
the handrail and lower rail pass through the stanchions at an angle, the holes in
these stanchions (203) are oval in shape. These stanchions are located in the
etched parts sheet inside the window frames.
The companionway handrails and lower rails are cut from 0.8 mm Ø brass rod.
201
202
199
203
205
205
207 206
Towing lightStern light
203
199
204
Bend the two companionways 199 to shape, and insert the railing stanchions 203. Solder the stanchions and the bend lines on the
underside. Bend the treads to the horizontal position. Position the companionways as close to the side of the hull as possible, otherwise
they may break off when the superstructure is raised. Glue the companionways in place with small amounts of cyano.
Assemble the long companionway running to the superstructure deck in the manner already described, inserting the handrail and lower
rail in the exhaust pillar. Glue them to the companionway support. The companionway should not rest on part 121; the soldered joint
between the handrails, the lower rails and the railing is quite strong enough.
55
56
57
The superstructure railing
Railing between the exhaust pillars:
Thread five railing stanchions onto the handrail and lower rail, and insert them in the deck. You can
either glue these parts together using cyano, or solder the joints.
Paint the railing and glue it in the deck.
The lamp bracket for the stern and towing lights is made from parts 209 - 211.
Forward superstructure railing:
Bend the wires using a screwdriver or dowel of about 3 - 4 mm Ø; this maintains a constant radius.
Start by bending the nine treads 212. Paint them and glue them in the walls 67 and 84.
Side superstructure railings
The wheelhouse itself is not shown here.
The handrails should be 500 mm long.
Form the first two or three bends in the rods along the inside of the
footrail.
Thread twelve stanchions onto the lower rails and the handrail.
Start the assembly process at the rear.
Leave the rods projecting by about 25 mm aft of the last railing
stanchion.
Approx. 25 mm projection
Die hinteren 6-7 Relingstützen in das Deck stecken. Über den
Handlauf am Aufbau mit Klebestreifen sichern. Richten Sie zwei
Relingstützen aus und löten oder kleben Sie den Handlauf fest. Die
Durchzüge ausrichten und löten/kleben. Löten Sie so alle
Relingstützen bis vor die nächste Biegung. Die bis dahin fertige
Reling mit Klebestreifen am Aufbau sichern und die Drähte weiter
biegen. Relingstützen weiter anlöten, wieder bis zur nächsten
Biegung. Vorn den Handlauf nach unten biegen und in die
vorgesehenen Löcher im Aufbau stecken.
Die Durchzüge parallel nach unten biegen und am Handlauf
anlöten.
Verfahren Sie ebenso mit der anderen Seite.
Wheelhouse companionway and railing
Start by assembling the companionway between the wheelhouse roof
and the monitor platform; solder all the joints, then bend the flanges
down at 90°. The oval holes must be enlarged to 1 mm.
Solder the railing stanchions 203 in place.
Tape the companionway to the underside of the platform and the
roof. You may need to cut slots in the edge of the roof for the
companionway strings.
58
59
60
61
The next step is to assemble the monitor platform railing.
Left-hand side:
Thread the handrail and the upper middle rail through the
companionway stanchions. Insert the first stanchion in the platform,
and bend the handrail and the lower rail so that they fit in the holes in
the stanchion.
Solder the handrail and lower rail to the companionway stanchions.
Thread the remaining four stanchions 205 onto the rails. Bend the
handrail and lower rails to the correct shape, and solder them to the
first upper companionway stanchion. Bend the handrail to shape step
by step, soldering the joints as you proceed.
Shorten the lower middle rail where it meets the companionway, and
solder it to the upper middle rail.
Tape the soldered sections to the deck as you complete them.
Right-hand side:
Thread the handrail and lower rail through the companionway
stanchions, and solder the joints. Insert the platform stanchion, bend
the handrail and lower rail to shape, and solder the joints.
The U-shaped lower rails and handrail on the monitor platform can be
bent to shape over the railing stanchion openings. Thread the
stanchions onto the rails. Insert the railing in the monitor platform
and solder the joints.
Remove the completed railing sections and paint them.
Bend the ladder 214 to the shape shown.
The inside clear width is 12 mm.
Remove the struts marked red in the drawing of the etched sheet.
Cautiously bend the upper section back through about 45°.
Mark the required holes on the wheelhouse and drill 1 mm pilot-
holes. Paint the ladder and glue it in place.
The second ladder in the etched parts sheet is a spare, and is not
needed for this model.
Bend the handrails and lower rails as shown in the dimensioned
drawing below. Thread the stanchions onto the rails, and fit them in
the appropriate holes. Tape them in place before soldering the joints.
Finally bend the handrails and lower rails for the ladder, and solder
the lower rails to the handrails.
205
62
63
64
The superstructure railing
Railing between the exhaust pillars:
Thread five railing stanchions onto the handrail and lower rail, and insert them in the deck. You can
either glue these parts together using cyano, or solder the joints.
Paint the railing and glue it in the deck.
The lamp bracket for the stern and towing lights is made from parts 209 - 211.
Forward superstructure railing:
Bend the wires using a screwdriver or dowel of about 3 - 4 mm Ø; this maintains a constant radius.
Start by bending the nine treads 212. Paint them and glue them in the walls 67 and 84.
Side superstructure railings
The wheelhouse itself is not shown here.
The handrails should be 500 mm long.
Form the first two or three bends in the rods along the inside of the
footrail.
Thread twelve stanchions onto the lower rails and the handrail.
Start the assembly process at the rear.
Leave the rods projecting by about 25 mm aft of the last railing
stanchion.
Approx. 25 mm projection
Die hinteren 6-7 Relingstützen in das Deck stecken. Über den
Handlauf am Aufbau mit Klebestreifen sichern. Richten Sie zwei
Relingstützen aus und löten oder kleben Sie den Handlauf fest. Die
Durchzüge ausrichten und löten/kleben. Löten Sie so alle
Relingstützen bis vor die nächste Biegung. Die bis dahin fertige
Reling mit Klebestreifen am Aufbau sichern und die Drähte weiter
biegen. Relingstützen weiter anlöten, wieder bis zur nächsten
Biegung. Vorn den Handlauf nach unten biegen und in die
vorgesehenen Löcher im Aufbau stecken.
Die Durchzüge parallel nach unten biegen und am Handlauf
anlöten.
Verfahren Sie ebenso mit der anderen Seite.
Wheelhouse companionway and railing
Start by assembling the companionway between the wheelhouse roof
and the monitor platform; solder all the joints, then bend the flanges
down at 90°. The oval holes must be enlarged to 1 mm.
Solder the railing stanchions 203 in place.
Tape the companionway to the underside of the platform and the
roof. You may need to cut slots in the edge of the roof for the
companionway strings.
58
59
60
61
The next step is to assemble the monitor platform railing.
Left-hand side:
Thread the handrail and the upper middle rail through the
companionway stanchions. Insert the first stanchion in the platform,
and bend the handrail and the lower rail so that they fit in the holes in
the stanchion.
Solder the handrail and lower rail to the companionway stanchions.
Thread the remaining four stanchions 205 onto the rails. Bend the
handrail and lower rails to the correct shape, and solder them to the
first upper companionway stanchion. Bend the handrail to shape step
by step, soldering the joints as you proceed.
Shorten the lower middle rail where it meets the companionway, and
solder it to the upper middle rail.
Tape the soldered sections to the deck as you complete them.
Right-hand side:
Thread the handrail and lower rail through the companionway
stanchions, and solder the joints. Insert the platform stanchion, bend
the handrail and lower rail to shape, and solder the joints.
The U-shaped lower rails and handrail on the monitor platform can be
bent to shape over the railing stanchion openings. Thread the
stanchions onto the rails. Insert the railing in the monitor platform
and solder the joints.
Remove the completed railing sections and paint them.
Bend the ladder 214 to the shape shown.
The inside clear width is 12 mm.
Remove the struts marked red in the drawing of the etched sheet.
Cautiously bend the upper section back through about 45°.
Mark the required holes on the wheelhouse and drill 1 mm pilot-
holes. Paint the ladder and glue it in place.
The second ladder in the etched parts sheet is a spare, and is not
needed for this model.
Bend the handrails and lower rails as shown in the dimensioned
drawing below. Thread the stanchions onto the rails, and fit them in
the appropriate holes. Tape them in place before soldering the joints.
Finally bend the handrails and lower rails for the ladder, and solder
the lower rails to the handrails.
205
62
63
64
Searchlight
The searchlight is located in a separate frame on the etched parts
sheet. Always bend the sheet material towards the etched-in
groove to avoid the parts breaking.
First bend the two sides of the box 215 upwards through 90°.
Insert the two side panels 216 in the notches in the bottom.
Wrap masking tape round the box thus produced. Place this
assembly in a vice or between two pieces of wood in such a way
that the seam to be soldered is horizontal, and does not make
contact with anything.
Tack the parts together on the inside.
The box does not need to be watertight.
Repeat this procedure with all four corners and the bottom.
217
216 215
216
Solder
Adhesive tape
Pass the swivel tube 218 through the cover 217 and the
hole in the floor of the box. Align the cover, and tack it to
the side walls with spots of solder.
Tape the brackets 219 and 221 to a strip of balsa or similar,
with the bending grooves facing up.
Continue the holes in the brackets about 2 mm deep into
the wood using a 1.0 mm drill.
Fit the pivot pins through the brackets and into the wood,
and cut them off about 0.5 - 1 mm above it.
Solder the wires in place and clean up the soldered joints.
Now drill the 2 mm and 3 mm holes through the brackets
and into the wood. Insert the tubes 218 and 220 through
the wood, and fit the brackets on the tubes with about 1
mm projecting. Solder the joints using a minimum of solder.
Adhesive tape
Balsa strip
222
Glue horizontal reinforcements 224 to the lamp housing, and drill holes
through the housing. Drill holes in the other side of the housing, taking care
that the holes are at right-angles and exactly opposite each other. Carefully
position the opposite reinforcement 224 using the drill as a guide.
Drill a hole for the cable in the bottom of the lamp housing.
Slip the two bracket tubes into each other. Cautiously bend the brackets to
shape, and fit the pivot pins in the reinforcements. Press the brackets firmly
against the lamp housing using two fingers, and swivel slightly to left and
right on the tube; this will cause the bends to align themselves. You may
need to apply more solder to the bending grooves.
65
66
67
68
Glue the backplate 225 to the housing 223.
Glue the handles 226 in the holes. Glue the latches 227 in the holes
above the housing. The searchlight can now be painted.
Cut the LED pins to length and solder the wires to them.
Insulate the soldered joints and pins with heat-shrink sleeves or similar.
Thread the wires through the hole in the housing, and fit the LED in the
reflector. Place the reflector in the lamp housing, followed by the lens.
Secure the lens with contact cement or canopy glue. Don't use cyano, as
sooner or later this will 'bloom' (turn milky).
The two 0.8 mm holes in the top and bottom of the backplate can be
used to push out the reflector with a pin, drill or similar, in case a repair
is necessary.
Chain stoppers
Two chain stoppers have to be built.
Glue together parts 231 - 233 to form the base. Note that part 232 must
be bevelled at the top.
Glue the shaft 239 in the centre of the retaining plate 238. Glue the two
side parts vertically to the slider plate 234. Fit the shaft and the retaining
plate 238 before the glue sets.
Cut the crankshaft to length and solder it to the angled crank.
Form a loop in the linchpin 242 as shown.
Insert both parts; the cranks face amidships.
Paint the chain stoppers.
These assemblies are glued in place together with the anchor winch and
chain.
235
239
239
238
232 231 233
233 241
242
234
Anchor winch
The winch base consists of the double-T supports 243 and the base
plate 244.
Glue the double-T supports 243 to the base plate as shown in the
drawing alongside.
The centre of the supports is indicated by a dotted line. Align the
supports with the slots in the baseplate. They must not project into the
slots. 243
244
Glue the two bearing brackets 245 together.
Glue this assembly in the slot in the base plate. Glue the bearing bracket
246 in the right-hand slot in the base plate.
Thread the shaft through the pivot holes. Glue the reinforcement 248 to
the base plate, flush at the bottom, and flush with the outside of part
246. Note that parts 245 and 246 must be set at right-angles to the
base plate.
Fit the plates 249 and 250 on the shaft, and glue them to the support
246 - not to the shaft. Glue the plates 251 and the distributor 252 in
place. Bend the guides 255 to the shape shown and glue them in place.
Glue the small cover 254 in place.
245
248
247
246
251 252
254
251
255
250
249
69
70
71
72
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