aero-naut Clipper is a versatile RC yacht designed for light to medium-strength winds. The hull is made of waterproof Obechi and plywood, and the superstructure is made of mahogany. The model comes complete with all the necessary hardware, including a metal ballast bulb, rudder, and sails. The aero-naut Clipper is easy to assemble and can be completed in a few hours.
Capabilities:
- The aero-naut Clipper is perfect for beginners and experienced sailors alike. It is easy to sail and can be used in a variety of conditions.
Possible use cases:
- The aero-naut Clipper is ideal for sailing in lakes, ponds, and rivers. It can also be used in light to medium-strength winds.
aero-naut Clipper is a versatile RC yacht designed for light to medium-strength winds. The hull is made of waterproof Obechi and plywood, and the superstructure is made of mahogany. The model comes complete with all the necessary hardware, including a metal ballast bulb, rudder, and sails. The aero-naut Clipper is easy to assemble and can be completed in a few hours.
Capabilities:
- The aero-naut Clipper is perfect for beginners and experienced sailors alike. It is easy to sail and can be used in a variety of conditions.
Possible use cases:
- The aero-naut Clipper is ideal for sailing in lakes, ponds, and rivers. It can also be used in light to medium-strength winds.
Clipper
Clipper building instructions
1
Building instructions
Clipper
Order No. 3002/00
“aero-naut” Modellbau
Stuttgarterstr. 18-22
D-72766 Reutlingen
Germany
http://www.aero-naut.de
Clipper
Clipper building instructions
2
Cut the glasspaper 62 to the size of the plywood block 61, and glue it to both sides. Carefully press
the components out of the die-cut sheets and sand the edges smooth using the sanding block.
1) Mask off the edge of the channeled face of the deck 1 using adhesive tape to avoid soiling the deck
surface when glue is applied. Cover the work surface with plastic film, and lay the deck 1 on it, chan-
neled face down. Insert the keel 2 in the slot, and place the bulkheads 3 to 8 on the deck 1.
2) Insert the keel components 9 and 10. Check that the keel 2 is exactly central.
3) Glue all the assembled parts together at the corners.
4) Sand the front of the bow 11 to a point on both sides (red area) to match the shape of the deck 1,
and glue it to the deck 1 and the bulkhead 3. Ensure that part 11 is exactly vertical and central. Glue
the bulkhead 12 to the deck 1 and to the keel 10. Pin parts 11 and 12 in place while the glue is drying.
5) Allow the glued joints to set hard.
6) Sand the balsa strips 13 at an angle as shown in the full-size plan view, glue them to the bow 11
and allow the glue to harden. Don’t glue them to bulkhead 3 at this point!
7) When the glue has set, stick the balsa strips 13 to bulkheads 3 to 8 and 12, again using pins to hold
them in position. Ensure that the bow 11 remains straight when you curve the strips 13.
8) Fit the mast socket 14 through the deck 1 and into the hull. Part 14 must end flush with the top sur-
face of the deck 1.
9) Set the mast socket 14 exactly central relative to the keel 9. Glue a piece of the 3 cm wide fabric
tape 23 over both sides of the mast socket 14 and the keel 9. Glue the mast socket 14 to the deck 1.
10) Glue the two reinforcements 15 to the deck 1, butting up against the rear of the bulkhead 12.
11) Glue the hull sides 16 to the structure, aligning them with the bow 11 and the bulkhead 12. Clamp
the sides to the balsa strips 13 using clothes pegs. If there is a gap between the deck 1 and the hull
side, tape the ply panel to part 1 while the glue is setting.
12) Check that the notches in parts 17 + 18 match the keel 2, and sand them to the correct size if
necessary. Glue the bottom hull panels 17 + 18 to the structure and tape them in place; they should
finish flush with the hull sides 16.
13) This completes the basic hull structure; sand off the excess balsa strip material 13 at the bulkhead
12 so that they do not project beyond it.
14) Assemble the boatstand from parts 19, 20 and 21, and glue the joints.
15) Clean the metal ballast bulb 22 using soapy water.
16) Place the ballast bulb 22 centrally in parts 19 and 20, rounded end facing forward, pointed end aft.
Place the hull between parts 19 and 20 and glue the keel 2 centrally to the ballast bulb 22.
17) Glue a strip of 10 cm wide fabric tape 23 to the ballast bulb 22 and the keel 2 for extra strength.
18) Fit the rudder bush 25 in the hole in the bottom of the hull 17; it should project on the underside by
11 mm. Glue part 25 to the hull bottom 17 and the keel 10.
19) Glue a strip of 3 cm wide fabric tape 61 to the bush 25 and the keel 10.
Fit the shaft of the rudder 24 through the bush 25, fit a washer 26 on the top end and screw the self-
locking nut 27 onto the threaded part.
Fit the steering arm 28 on the rudder shaft, and tighten the second self-locking nut on top to clamp the
steering arm 28 in place. Check that the rudder 24 rotates freely when the steering arm 28 is moved.
20) Glue the plywood reinforcements 30 and 31 to the smooth face of the hatch cover 29, with the lugs
projecting beyond the ends of the panel. Clamp the parts together.
Fit the handle 32 through the slot and glue it in place.
The finished hatch 29 as seen from the underside.
21) Glue the hatch support rails 33 to the underside of the deck 1 at the sides, centred on the access
opening; allow the glue to set hard. The hatch 29 can now be fitted as follows: slide the wider end of
the hatch cover (with part 30) under the deck 1, press the opposite (narrow) end (with part 31) down
and then slide the hatch back. The hatch cover will now snap into place, with the lugs of parts 30 + 31
engaging under the deck 1. To open the hatch, press the wider end down into the hull by about 3 mm,
slide it forward to clear the lugs, then lift it off.
22) Tape together the superstructure components 34 to 37. Apply glue to the corner joints on the
inside.
23) Cut the windows from the clear packaging material, and glue them on the inside of the super-
structure.
24) Glue the roof 38 to the superstructure.
25) Glue the superstructure floor 34 to the deck 1, leaving a visible gap about 1 mm wide between the
wall 35 and the access opening in the deck 1.
Clipper
Clipper building instructions
3
26) The ends of the superstructure side panels 36 are not yet fixed; bend them as shown, pin them in
this position and glue them to the deck 1.
The completed hull can now be given several coats of sanding sealer (primer) to render it completely
waterproof. Push a piece of paper towel into the mast socket 14 to prevent sealer running into it. When
the sealer is completely dry, place the hull in the water, and check that it floats level and does not leak.
27) The tablings (corner reinforcements) 41 to 47 can now be glued to the sails: peel off the backing
film from the double-sided tape, and press them onto the sails in the exact positions shown.
28) Attach the stainless steel rings 48 and oval rings 49 to the sails.
29) Slide the three spring-rings 51 onto the mast 50. This is done by squeezing the loop and the other
end together, and pushing it onto the mast.
30) Slide the rings 48 down the mast to attach the mainsail 40 to it, and connect the oval ring 49 to the
spring-ring 51.
31) Connect the jib 39 to the spring-ring 51 using the oval ring 49.
Slip the boom 53 through the rings 48 attached to the bottom of the jib 39. The left and right rings must
be positioned between the loop and the end of the spring, so that the sail cannot move out of position.
32) Slide two spring-rings 51 onto the boom 52; note that the hole for the screw 54 must be on the left-
hand side. Slide the boom 52 through the lower rings 48 in the mainsail 40.
33) Fit the boom 52 over the lower spring-ring 51 attached to the mast 50. Fit the screw 54 through the
boom 52 and the spring-ring 51, and secure it with the nut 55.
34) Draw the cord 57 through the left-hand hole in the sliding clamp 56 and tie it securely. Now run the
cord through the left-hand spring-ring 51, through the middle and right-hand holes in the sliding clamp
56, and through the right-hand spring-ring.
35) Screw the three ring-screws 58 in place as shown.
Connect the left-hand spring-ring 51 on the boom 53 to the ring-screw 58 with the oval ring 49.
Tension the jib 39 to the top of the mast 50 using the spring-ring 51. Tie the cord 57 to the ring-screw
58 in front of the mast 50.
36) Tie the cord 57 to the rear ring-screw 58.
37) Adjust the position of the two sliding clamps so that both booms 52 + 53 are able to swing out as
far as the hull sides 16.
38) Glue the servo plate 59 in the hull.
39) Connect the (medium-sized) servo to the steering arm 28 using the pushrod 60. Fix the servo to
the servo plate 59 using Velcro (hook-and-loop) tape. Fit the receiver and receiver battery in the
forward area of the hull on either side of the keel 2.
40) The boat is intended for light to medium-strength winds only.
If the boat heels (leans over) too far, give the sails a little more freedom to swing out. This is
accomplished by adjusting the position of the sliding clamp 56.
Clipper
Clipper building instructions
4
No. Component Material No. off Type
1 Deck / jig Obechi 1 Die-cut
2 Keel Plywood 1 Die-cut
3 Bulkhead Plywood 1 Die-cut
4 Bulkhead Plywood 1 Die-cut
5 Bulkhead Plywood 1 Die-cut
6 Bulkhead Plywood 1 Die-cut
7 Bulkhead Plywood 1 Die-cut
8 Bulkhead Plywood 1 Die-cut
9 Keel Plywood 1 Die-cut
10 Keel Plywood 1 Die-cut
11 Bow Plywood 1 Die-cut
12 Bulkhead Plywood 1 Die-cut
13 Corner strip Balsa 2 5 x 5 x 495 mm
14 Mast socket Aluminium 1 7 Ø x 41 mm
15 Reinforcement Mahogany 2 Die-cut
16 Hull side Plywood 2 Die-cut
17 Hull bottom Plywood 1 Die-cut
18 Hull bottom Plywood 1 Die-cut
19 Boatstand Plywood 1 Die-cut
20 Boatstand Plywood 1 Die-cut
21 Boatstand Plywood 2 Die-cut
22 Ballast Metal 1 14.5 Ø x 95 mm
23 Fabric tape Cotton 1 Ready made, 350 mm
24 Rudder Plastic 1 Ready made, shaft M3 x 35 mm
25 Rudder bush Brass 1 4 Ø x 24 mm
26 Washer Brass 1 Bored 3 mm Ø
27 Self-locking nut Metal 2 M3, ready made
28 Steering arm Plastic 1 Ready made
29 Hatch cover Obechi 1 Die-cut
30 Reinforcement Plywood 1 Die-cut
31 Reinforcement Plywood 1 Die-cut
32 Handle Plywood 1 Die-cut
33 Hatch support rail Obechi 2 Die-cut
34 Superstructure floor Mahogany 1 Die-cut
35 Superstructure wall Mahogany 1 Die-cut
36 Superstructure side panel Mahogany 2 Die-cut
37 Superstructure wall Mahogany 1 Die-cut
38 Superstructure roof Mahogany 1 Die-cut
39 Jib Fabric 1 Die-cut
40 Mainsail Fabric 1 Die-cut
41 Sail tabling Fabric 1 Die-cut
42 Sail tabling Fabric 1 Die-cut
43 Sail tabling Fabric 1 Die-cut
44 Sail tabling Fabric 1 Die-cut
45 Sail tabling Fabric 1 Die-cut
46 Sail tabling Fabric 1 Die-cut
47 Sail tabling Fabric 1 Die-cut
48 Ring Stainless steel 16 Ready made
49 Oval ring Stainless steel 7 Ready made
50 Mast Aluminium 1 6 Ø x 510 mm
51 Spring-ring Stainless steel 7 Ready made
52 Main boom Aluminium 1 6 Ø x 250 mm
53 Jib boom Aluminium 1 6 Ø x 160 mm
54 Screw Brass 1 M2 x 12 mm
55 Self-locking nut Brass 1 M2
56 Sliding clamp Plastic 2 Ready made
57 Cord 1000 mm
58 Ring-screw Brass 3 Ready made
59 Servo plate Plywood 1 Die-cut
60 Rudder pushrod Steel 1 Ready made
61 Sanding block Plywood 1 Pre-cut
62 Glasspaper 1 Pre-cut
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aero-naut Clipper is a versatile RC yacht designed for light to medium-strength winds. The hull is made of waterproof Obechi and plywood, and the superstructure is made of mahogany. The model comes complete with all the necessary hardware, including a metal ballast bulb, rudder, and sails. The aero-naut Clipper is easy to assemble and can be completed in a few hours.
Capabilities:
- The aero-naut Clipper is perfect for beginners and experienced sailors alike. It is easy to sail and can be used in a variety of conditions.
Possible use cases:
- The aero-naut Clipper is ideal for sailing in lakes, ponds, and rivers. It can also be used in light to medium-strength winds.
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