Model Shipways ARMED VIRGINIA SLOOP 1768 2160 User manual

Brand: Model Shipways

Model: ARMED VIRGINIA SLOOP 1768 2160

Type: User manual

Model Shipways Kit No. 2160

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Manufactured by Model Shipways

A Division of Model Expo, Inc., Hollywood, FL

http://www.modelexpo-online.com

PREPARED BY BEN LANKFORD

Technical Characteristics

SCALE: 1/4" = 1' 0" (1:48)

OVERALL LENGTH: 31" (787 mm)

OVERALL HEIGHT FROM KEEL: 22" (559 mm)

OVERALL WIDTH ACROSS

LOWER YARD: 8-1/4" (210 mm)

MODELING THE

ARMED VIRGINIA SLOOP

✦

1768

✦

MODELING THE

ARMED VIRGINIA SLOOP

✦

1768

✦

HISTORY

The Virginia Sloop is a single-masted privateer, or smuggler, an evolutionary development in the line of fast

sailing ships linking the Bermuda sloop of c. 1740 and the trim, sharp model Virginia schooners found in

Steel’s Naval Architecture of 1805. It is a small, well-designed ship, with a graceful sheer and low freeboard.

The 18th century was a time of intense naval and maritime competition. In both peace and war, Britain, France,

and America looked toward the development of a new vessel type that might further their national or regional

interests at sea. Often, the private sector was more innovative, as the quest for quick profits spurred the produc-

tion and refinement of fast sailing ships.

Jamaica had become rapidly established as a shipbuilding center in the prior century, with a reputation for fast, well-

built ships. By the end of the century the shift to Bermuda had already begun, coincident with the decline in tim-

ber in Jamaica. When the same happened in Bermuda, the hull form seems to have moved to the Chesapeake.

Whether these ships were a new design development is not entirely clear. The basic form may have developed

from the English cutter of the first quarter of the century. However, the Jamaica-Bermuda-Virginia sloops were

sharper, lighter, and sleeker than their cutter cousins.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Technical Specifications ................................................Cover

History ...................................................................................2

Introduction and Credits .....................................................4

Before You Begin ..................................................................5

Working with the Plans & Parts..........................................5

1. The Plans ...........................................................................5

2. Making Allowances along the Way ..................................5

3. Understanding Hull Lines ................................................5

4. Kit Lumber........................................................................5

5. Britannia Metal Fittings....................................................5

6. Soldering & Working with Brass ......................................5

What You’ll Need to Start Construction ...........................6

Painting & Staining the Model ...........................................6

1. Preliminaries......................................................................6

2. Virginia Sloop’s Color Scheme ........................................7

Stage 1: Framing the Plank-on-Bulkhead Hull..................8

1. Bending Wood ..................................................................8

2. Preparing the Center Keel.................................................8

3. Installing the Stem, Keel, & Sternpost.............................8

4. Cutting the Rabbet ...........................................................8

5. Installing the Bulkheads ...................................................9

6. Installing the Wing Transom,

Filler Blocks, and Transom Frames.................................10

7. Installing the Bow Filler Blocks, Knightheads,

and Timberheads.............................................................11

8. Installing the Mast Mortise ............................................11

9. Gunport and Sweep Port Framing .................................11

10.Installing Deck Beams, Sub-Decks, and Waterway...........11

11. Main and After Rails.......................................................12

12. Before Moving On..........................................................12

Stage 2: Planking The Hull And Installing The Rails .......13

Common Shipbuilding Terms Used in the

Planking Process...................................................................13

1. Getting Started ................................................................13

2. Planking Battens & Belts.................................................13

3. Planking Butts .................................................................13

4. Spiling..............................................................................14

5. Fastening the Planks........................................................14

6. Hull Planking Scheme and Procedure............................14

7.Planking the Hull............................................................14

8. Completing the Double Planked Hull...........................17

9. Installing Bulwark Ceiling Planks...................................17

10.Installing Coamings, Deck and Cabin Planking............18

11.Installing the Main and Quarter Deck, and Cabin Rails....18

Stage 3: Completing the Basic Hull Structure ................19

Stage 4: Mounting the Hull...............................................19

1. Launching Ways ..............................................................19

2. Option – Mounting on Pedestals...................................19

3. Option – Dr. Feldman’s Stand.......................................19

Stage 5: Adding The Hull Details.....................................20

1. Anchors, Catheads, and Anchor Stowage......................20

2. Binnacle ...........................................................................21

3. Boom Crutches ...............................................................21

4. Cabin Doors....................................................................21

5. Cannon ...........................................................................21

6. Channels .........................................................................22

7. Companionway...............................................................22

8. Eyebolts, Ringbolts, and Cleats......................................22

9. Galley Stack.....................................................................22

10. Hatches, Scuttle, and Gratings .......................................23

11. Ladders ............................................................................23

12.Pumps ..............................................................................23

13. Riding Bitts......................................................................23

14.Rudder .............................................................................24

15. Steering Wheel ................................................................24

16.Stern Windows................................................................24

17. Swivel Guns and Support Posts......................................24

18. Timberheads....................................................................24

Stage 6: Mast and Spar Construction...............................25

1. Shaping & Tapering Masts & Spars ................................25

2. Building & Installing the Masts......................................25

3. Building & Installing the Bowsprit and Jibboom.............26

4. Building the Spreader Yard and Topsail Yard ................27

5. Building the Boom and Gaff..........................................27

6. Building the Flag Staff ....................................................27

7. Mast and Spar Bands, and Cleats...................................27

Stage 7: General Rigging Information .............................27

1. Rigging Scheme...............................................................28

2. Rigging Plans...................................................................28

3. Rigging Line, Blocks, Bullseyes, Hearts, & Deadeye Sizes..29

4. Block Details ...................................................................29

5. Treating the Lines............................................................29

6. Belaying Lines .................................................................29

7. Rigging Tools...................................................................29

Stage 8: Installing Standing Rigging.................................29

1. Shrouds............................................................................29

2. Spreader Yard Horse .......................................................30

3. Backstays..........................................................................30

4. Fore & Aft Stays ..............................................................31

5. Bowsprit Rigging.............................................................32

6. Footropes and Parrels......................................................32

Stage 9: Installing Running Rigging .................................33

1. Fore Staysail, Jib, and Flying Jib.....................................33

2. Mainsail...........................................................................34

3. Topsail .............................................................................35

4. Course .............................................................................38

5. Stern Flag Staff................................................................38

Final T

ouches ......................................................................38

Congratulations! ..................................................................38

Bibliography.........................................................................39

Instruction Manual

ARMED VIRGINIA SLOOP

✦

1768

✦

Plans and Instructions by

Ben Lankford, Vienna, VA

Models by Bob Werner

Model Shipways developed its

Virginia Sloop

kit in 1998-2000. The design is based on a reconstruction devel-

oped by Clayton A. Feldman, M.D., Publisher of Seaways’ Ships-in-Scale magazine. The original plan of the

sloop, a Dutch copy of a French drawing, was found by noted nautical historian Howard I. Chapelle in Euro-

pean archives. The ship had apparently been sold to the French shortly after completion. Fragmentary notes

and the plan passed from Chapelle to Joseph A. Goldenberg, author of Shipbuilding in Colonial America, and

to John F. Millar, author of Early American Ships. Mr. Millar redrew the plan for his book. This plan is the

basis for a reconstruction of the ship.

Dr. Feldman’s original plans are accompanied by a book,

Modeling an Armed Virginia Sloop of 1768

(see

bibliography). His book describes the development of the reconstruction and details for building a 3/8" =

1'0" scale model from scratch. Model Shipways has transformed Dr. Feldman’s design into a 1/4" = 1'0" scale

kit design. Some modifications have been made in keeping with Model Shipways design procedures, and

some minor changes in the rig have been made based on further research. Model Shipways would like to

thank Dr. Feldman for making this design available and for his assistance during the kit’s development.

Thanks also to Jack Silvia, Little Compton, RI, for his assistance in assembling prototype hulls and checking

the accuracy of the laser-cut parts, and reviewing plans and instructions, and to Bob Werner, Hollywood, FL,

for assembling the prototype model, photos of which are included herein.

Model Shipways, Inc., a division of Model Expo, Inc.

Hollywood, Florida

Before You Begin

The

Virginia Sloop

is an interesting ship

and makes a splendid model. The model

is well suited for the beginning ship mod-

eler. At 1/4" = 1'0" scale, it is easy to

build and obtain precise detail. Plank-on-

bulkhead hull construction with laser-cut

parts offers a unique building method

that assures an accurate hull form. The

model has double outer hull planking

(with single planking option suggested),

and all exposed surfaces except for decks

and spars are walnut, for those who desire

a natural oiled finish. Color schemes are

provided for those who prefer to paint

the model.

The plans and instructions included have

been expanded from previous Model

Shipways kits in an effort to assist the

beginner.

Britannia, brass, and wooden fittings

eliminate creating many parts from

scratch. However, some require final fin-

ishing before they are suitable for the

model. This is especially true for the bri-

tannia fittings and will be discussed later.

Always complete one construction stage

before moving to the next. When things

go awry, consider doing them over.

Working with the Plans & Parts

Before starting the model, carefully exam-

ine the kit and study the plans. First,

determine if all the listed parts are pres-

ent. Handling them will produce a better

understanding of the kit’s requirements.

Try to visualize how every piece will look

on the completed model. Also, determine

the building sequence – what must be

done first – ahead of time. The instruc-

tions will help, but a thorough knowledge

of the plans at the outset is essential.

o avoid losing small fittings and hard-

ware, sort them into labeled boxes or com-

partments. These should have lids to keep

out dirt.

1. The Plans

Seven plan sheets are provided:

1. Laser-Cut Wood Patterns

2. Hull Framing and Planking

3. Deck Plan, Profiles, and Deck

Structures

4. Mast & Spar Details, Sail Plan,

& Belaying Plan

5. Standing Rigging

6. Running Rigging (1 of 2 Plans)

.Running Rigging (2 of 2 Plans)

Model Shipways’

Virginia Sloop

kit is

manufactured to a scale of 1/4" = 1'0"

(1:48). Each sheet is drawn to that scale

except areas enlarged to show detail. Most

dimensions can be lifted directly off the

plans by using draftsman dividers or a

“tick” strip (piece of paper such as an

adding machine roll). Lay the paper strip

over the plan, carefully mark the item’s

length with a sharp pencil, then transfer

the marks to the wood.

Because these are modelbuilding plans,

actual measurements are given in model

inches. For comparison, 1/32" on the

model is equal to 1.5" on the real ship,

1/16" is 3", 1/8" is 6", and so on. The

table on Plan Sheet 3 compares scale with

full-size dimensions and converts imperial

numbers to metric.

2. Making Allowances

along the Way

Try to be exact when following the plans,

but use common sense. Adjustments may

be necessary to compensate for small dif-

ferences in how your model is shaping

up; i.e., perhaps the mast has too much

rake (the angle at which it sits). Lines

should not drape over fittings or conflict

with other lines when

belayed

(secured). If

necessary, move a belaying point. Put

yourself on the ship, imagine performing

the task, and use logic.

3. Understanding Hull Lines

Beginners may not be familiar with the

following hull lines.

Buttock lines

are verti-

cal longitudinal planes cutting through

the hull.

Waterlines

are horizontal planes,

and Sections are transverse vertical planes.

Diagonals

are planes cut almost perpendi-

cular to the station lines. These lines define

the hull’s shape and are used by the drafts-

man to fair it (create even curves).

A complete set of hull lines is not needed

for this model, because laser-cut bulkheads

and the center keel define the hull’s shape.

Plan Sheet 2 shows the bulkhead lines.

They are similar to a ship’s

body plan

, or

sections, and illustrate how the hull curves

from top to bottom.

4. Kit Lumber

Strips and sheets of basswood and walnut

are supplied in the kit. Model Shipways

occasionally substitutes lime (

Tilia vul-

garis

), a European wood, for basswood

(

Tilia americana

) in its kits. Both have a

fine, uniform texture and straight grain.

Lime, however, has superior steam-bend-

ing qualities. It is often called basswood

in Europe.

Some of the walnut supplied in the kit will

be purchased from a foreign source in met-

ric units. Consequently, there may be a

slight variance from the walnut dimen-

sions shown on the plans and in the

instructions. However, this should present

no significant problems.

Sorting the wood in the kit by thickness

and wood type will save time. After

selecting and cutting what you need,

return the remaining stock to the proper

thickness and wood-type pile. Don’t

worry about using a piece for one item

intended for another. Model Shipways

supplies enough extra wood to complete

the model before running out.

5. Britannia Metal Fittings

These fittings will require final finishing

before mounting on the model. First,

remove mold joint flash with a #11 hobby

blade, then file or sand with fine sandpaper.

Next, wash fittings in dishwashing liquid

and warm water to remove traces of mold

release agent and the body oils your fingers

deposit. Allow to dry thoroughly before

applying primer and painting.

6. Soldering & Working

with Brass

Extensive soldering isn’t required to assem-

ble the

Virginia Sloop

. However, here are a

few tips:

Cut brass sheets and strips with a small

pair of tin snips or heavy scissors. Thicker

brass will require a jeweler’s saw. After cut-

ting, smooth the edges with needle files

followed by wet-or-dry fine sandpaper used

dry. Cutting slivers from brass sheet curls

and bends it sideways. To straighten, grip

the ends with a pair of small pliers and

pull in opposite directions. Thin brass

sheets can be scored with a utility knife

and metal straight edge, then snapped off.

Use two or three light passes, cutting

against a maple chopping block, birch

board, or glass.

Drilling holes in brass with a pin vise is a

slow process. The solution is to mount a

handpiece for flex-shaft machines in a

hobby drill press. Several companies manu-

facture this tool, and it is worth the cost.

When working with brass, use a 1/4" or

thicker piece of maple or birch for backing.

(Avoid softwoods, as these flare the exit

hole.) To prevent the bit from wandering,

mark the spot with a small center punch.

Lubricate the bit with light oil and drill

slowly to avoid breakage. The brass will

become hot, so clamp the pieces to the drill

press table or hold them down with a

wooden stick. Do not touch the brass! If

possible, keep the RPM below 2000. Any-

thing higher will generate enough heat to

break small drill bits.

In the past, many modelers used pure sil-

ver solder to avoid the corrosive qualities

of lead in soft solder. T

oday, many solders

are lead free. They are composed of tin

and antimony, or tin and a small amount

of silver (3 to 4 %). These solders are strong

and melt at approximately 430˚ F. Conse-

quently, no reason exists to use pure silver

solder (melts at 1300˚ F).

The key to soldering is keeping the brass

clean. Use a solvent made especially for

cleaning metal parts or a simple substitute

such as vinegar, lightly sand, or do both.

Rinse parts in clean water after cleaning

them with a solvent. Once the parts are

cleaned, don’t touch them — your fingers

will leave greasy spots. Soldering is easy if

your work is set up properly. First, immo-

bilize the parts in a fixture or other hold-

ing device, then add just enough rosin or

acid paste flux to the joint to do the job.

Solder flows where flux is applied. Next,

heat the joint with a small torch or pencil

soldering iron. This sequence is important.

The larger the parts, the longer it takes to

heat the brass and melt the solder. Remove

excess solder with needle files. Better yet,

use a desoldering syphon or braid to

remove globs of solder before it hardens.

The joint should look like the real thing,

not a big glob of fillets.

What You’ll Need to Start Construction

The following items are recommended for

building the model. Those who have

modeled before may have their favorites.

A. Knives and saws

1. Hobby knife with #11 blades

2. Razor saw or jeweler’s saw

B. Files

Set of needle files; steel or diamond

coated

C. Clamps

1. A few small C-clamps

2. Wooden spring-type clothespins

(craft shops have small versions)

3. #16 and #33 rubber bands

D. Tool Set

Small carving tool set or individual

gouges and chisels for carving keel rab-

bets, stern wing transom, and filler

blocks, and tapering the stem and rudder.

E. Sharpening Stone

Keeps tools razor sharp.

F. Boring Tools

1. Miniature bits sizes #60 to #80

2. 1/16", 3/32", and 1/8" bits

3. Pin vise

G. Miscellaneous

1. Tack hammer

2. Tweezers (a few)

3. Small, fine pointed scissors

4. Miniature pliers

a. small round

b. flat nose

5. Small bench vise

6. Soldering iron or torch

a. solder

b. flux

7. Beeswax block (for treating

rigging lines)

8. Masking tape

9. Wire cutters (for cutting

fine wire and strip metal)

H. Sandpaper

1. Fine and medium grit garnet or

#100 to #220 aluminum oxide

2. #400 wet-or-dry sandpaper

I. Sail cloth

Light weave cotton or linen cloth if

sails are desired. Model Expo sells a

suitable cotton cloth.

J. Finishing

1. Paintbrushes

a. Fine point for details

b. 1/4" to 1/2" flat square for hull

K. Supplies:

1. Paints

2. Primer

3. Stains and varnish

4. White or woodworker’s

(yellow) glue

5. Cyanoacrylates

(generic name is Super Glue)

6. Five-minute epoxy

7. Wood filler

Note:

White or woodworker’s glue in yel-

low or tan will suffice for most of the

model. Five-minute epoxy provides extra

strength for affixing fittings. Cyanoacry-

lates, such as Jet, Flash, or Zap, produce

quick adhesion. For most applications,

the medium viscosity, gap-filling variety is

best. The thin type is recommended for

filling a narrow crack or tacking hull

planking to the bulkheads.

Painting & Staining the Model

Beginning this manual with directions on

applying finishes may seem strange. Not

so! Much time and effort can be saved

and more professional results obtained if

the finishing process is carried on

throughout construction. Proper timing

in applying finishes and using masking

tape to define painted edges should elimi-

nate unsightly glue marks and splotchy,

stained surfaces. Take advantage of these

general suggestions:

1. Preliminaries

Sanding and cleaning:

Rub down external

surfaces with 220 grit sandpaper, then wipe

off every speck of dust. Give surfaces to be

painted two light coats of primer. Sand

lightly after the last application. Don’t

sand down to bare wood. After washing

your hands, gently dust the hull with a soft

brush and clean, soft cloth or tack rag. Use

a spackling compound, such as Model

Magic or DAP, to fill any scratches and

defects, then sand and prime again.

Preparing walnut for painting:

This kit

contains walnut wood for most of the

outer surfaces. Walnut is an excellent wood

for a natural oil or varnish finish. However,

if you intend to paint any walnut, the use

of a paste filler or spackle is highly recom-

mended. Walnut has a more pronounced

grain than a wood such as basswood or

cherry. Filling the grain will result in a

more satisfactory painted surface.

Choosing paint:

Glossy surfaces are not

desirable on ship models. A flat finish or

one with a slight sheen is best, because it

doesn’t reflect daylight or artificial lights.

Consequently, details show up better. How-

ever, the undercoat or primer should be

dead flat. A primer gives the surface a little

tooth and helps top coats adhere better.

Many hobby paints are satisfactory,

including Model Shipways, Testors,

Humbrol, and Tamiya. Jo Sonja artists’

paints (used by bird carvers) are also

acceptable. They are a combination

acrylic-gouache and dry dead flat.

Hobby paints have a variety of reflectance

levels from flat to gloss. When using a

mixed group of reflectance levels, finish

the completed model with a flat, clear

coat. It will provide durability and seal

any decals or dry-transfer lettering.

Brush painting:

Painting with fine, soft

bristle brushes is probably best for the

beginner. Many skilled modelmakers pre-

fer the brushed-on technique, because its

subtle imperfections impart a more life-

like appearance to the model. Brushes

must be soft and of the highest quality.

Artist-grade sable or synthetics are the

best. Use wider brushes for painting

broad surfaces. If too narrow, the bristles

will cause excessive streaking.

When applying paint or stain with a

brush, lay down one thin coat in a single

stroke, then move to an adjacent area and

coat it with a single stroke. Never go back

over fresh paint. That will tear up the sur-

face. Wait until it has dried to a hard fin-

ish before applying a second coat.

Spray painting:

Although slightly expen-

sive, a Paasche, Badger, Testors, Revell-

Monogram, or similar airbrush will

produce a first-rate job and is worth the

investment. Airbrushes are either single-

action (trigger controls only airflow) or

double-action (trigger controls air and

paint), and they are easy to use. Spray

patterns can vary from thin to about 1/2"

wide by either adjusting the needle or

installing a different, sealed nozzle. In

some brands, paint travels through the

airbrush body to the needle. These

require disassembling to clean. Other

designs bypass the body and bring paint

directly to the nozzle. These clean by sim-

ply spraying solvent through them.

Paints are either water- (acrylic) or solvent-

based. Solvent-based paints spray best.

Acrylics are difficult to spray and must

definitely be used with the manufacturer’s

recommended thinner or with alcohol,

a satisfactory substitute. Thinning

water-based paints with water creates sur-

face tension problems, resulting in poor

coverage and spray atomization. Experi-

ment when using acrylics. Some modelers

have success and others don’t.

When using solvent-based paints, work

outdoors or equip your shop with a spray

booth. These fumes are toxic.

Many brands of aerosol paint produce

good results. However, test them on scrap

wood before spraying the model. Aerosols

put out a lot more paint than an airbrush,

so be careful to avoid runs. Spray on sev-

eral light coats.

Most paint manufacturers have special

thinners for their various paint lines. Fol-

low each manufacturer’s recommenda-

tions. Mixing brands is not a good idea,

because they may not be compatible.

Sometimes, however, no other option

exists. If so, apply each brand separately

and allow to dry thoroughly before

adding the next. Always test to make sure

the final flat or gloss finish is compatible

with the paint it will cover.

Masking surfaces:

Masking can be a

tricky process. Some brands of masking

tape are worthless, because they allow

paint to seep underneath their edges. For

masking fine stripes or straight and

curved lines, use a graphic arts tape such

as Chart Pak. It comes in widths as fine as

1/64". Chart Pak tapes have superb adhe-

sion and won’t bleed when firmly applied

(burnishing is recommended). Black plas-

tic electrician’s tape and Scotch Remov-

able Magic Tape are also excellent.

Scotch’s tape has the same, low stick

adhesive as its famous Post-It pads. In

fact, Post-It tape flags can be used for

masking.

2. Virginia Sloop’s Color Scheme

Three color schemes are suggested as follows:

Painted model

This scheme would be typical for an origi-

nal ship of this period.

Note:

Refer to the instructions in the pre-

vious section regarding painting of walnut

before you proceed.

Main rail, quarter deck and cabin rail,

taffrail, and fashion pieces — Black

Black strake and wales — Black

Molding on black strake (top edge of

black strake) — Antique gold

Hull side and transom planking down to

the black strake — Yellow ochre

Option: Paint the sheer strake under the

main rail light blue, red, or green.

Swivel gun posts — Yellow ochre

Hull below the wales — Tallow

Stern window frames — Antique gold

Timberheads — Natural finish

Inside bulwarks — Dull red

Inside of gunports — Dull red

Decks, including waterway, and cabin

top — Natural finish

Cabin front and doors — Natural finish

Companionway — Natural finish

Binnacle — Natural finish

Bitts — Natural finish

Steering wheel — Paint casting color of

natural wood

Steering wheel stand and drum — Natural

finish

Hatch coamings — Natural finish

Hatch covers — Natural finish

Grating — Natural finish

Galley stack — Black

Quarter deck ladders — Natural finish

Catheads — Dull red inboard (same as

bulwarks), black from inboard edge of rail

and outboard

Iron work (pintles and gudgeons, chain

plates, hatch rings and cannon carriage

rings, mast cap, bowsprit straps, compan-

ionway hinges, cabin door hinges, and

jibboom irons) — Black

Anchors — Black shank with natural finish

stock

Cannon barrels and swivel guns — Black

Cannon carriages — Dull Red

Cannon trucks — Black

Boom crutches — Natural finish

Mast — Natural finish with black mast

wedge/coat. Black masthead and very top

of topmast.

Boom and gaff — Natural finish. Black at

very end of boom and gaff.

Yards — Natural finish. Black yardarms.

Bowsprit — Natural finish

Jibboom — Natural finish. Black at very

end of jibboom.

Blocks — Natural finish

Note: For the above colors, the following

Model Shipways acrylic marine paints

approximate the colors:

Black — Hull/Spar Black, MS4830

ellow Ochre — Hull Yellow Ochre,

MS4829

Tallow — Hull Tallow, MS4803

Dull Red — Bulwarks/Gun Carriage Red,

MS4802

Antique Gold — Antique Gold Trim,

MS4806

Note: For natural finished basswood decks

and beech dowel spars, we suggest using

a light tan or maple stain, followed by oil

or low gloss polyurethane varnish. For

natural finished walnut items, use a clear

oil finish.

Natural finish

Many natural finished models are dis-

played in European museums. Conse-

quently, the process is most popular

overseas. It has also become popular as a

result of foreign kit sales in the US. Most

foreign kit models feature walnut plank-

ing. This scheme retains the natural beau-

ty of walnut.

For all walnut areas, use an oil finish such

as tung oil or Danish oil. No stain is

required. For best results apply about three

coats of oil, buffing between coats. The

more oil you add the higher the sheen. For

the basswood decks and birch dowel masts,

stain the wood first. A light maple or pine

stain would be most appropriate.

As an option, use a polyurethane satin

varnish in lieu of oil.

Natural finish with touches of color

A pleasing balance between a natural and

fully painted model.

Use an all-natural finish, except for touch-

es of color. You could use the colors listed

above for rails, bulwarks, catheads, black

strake and wales, black strake molding,

sheer strake, galley stack, and all iron-

work, stern windows, cannon barrels,

swivel guns, and anchors. Or, make a

choice of your own.

Stage 1:

Framing the Plank-on-Bulkhead Hull

Before getting started on this project,

a few important terms and abbreviations

are in order, especially if you are a

beginner.

Port or (P) — Looking forward, this is the

left side of the ship.

Starboard or (S) — Looking forward, this is

the right side of the ship.

P/S — A designation you will see on plans

and in instructions. This tells you that the

same identical part, rig, or whatever,

appears on both the port and starboard

sides of the ship in the same location.

Model Shipways plans are drawn showing

the starboard side of the ship. In this case,

the bow is pointing to the right. This is

common practice for model plans as well

as real ship plans.

Some of the other stages will have specific

terms defined to help you understand terms

used on the plans and in the instructions.

1. Bending Wood

Building a plank-on-bulkhead hull

requires bending some wood without

distorting its desired position (doing so

stresses glue joints and fasteners). Wood

can be bent by:

Steam bending:

Hold the plank over a

kettle of boiling water and bend. Hold

the wood in position until it cools.

Although the plank should remain in that

shape, it may spring back slightly.

Microwave steaming:

Wrap the planks in

a wet paper towel before heating. Since

microwaves differ in wattage, experiment

to determine what power level to use and

for how long.

Soaking:

Submerge the plank in warm

water for several hours. Try adding a little

household or pure ammonia. This speeds

up the process, making the fibers slippery

so the wood bends more easily. After

soaking, place the plank in a fixture until

completely dry.

Soldering iron:

Large soldering irons with

a tubular end are ideal. Clamp the iron

upright in a vise. While the iron heats,

soak the strip of wood in tap water. Some

modelers prefer bending around the tube

near the handle (it’s not as hot), while

others use the shank. Move the strip back

and forth against the iron. Its heat turns

water into steam and drives it into the

wood. The trick is to wait until you feel

the wood wanting to yield before starting

the bend. Begin too soon or apply too

much pressure and the strip will break.

The wood dries rapidly, so care must be

taken to avoid scorching. Resoak and

reapply it to the iron until the desired

shape is achieved. Once the piece is

formed, it can go directly on the model.

Because the wood’s memory has been

permanently altered, it will never spring

back to its former shape, meaning no

stress on any timber or fasteners. Spend

some time acquainting yourself with this

method, and you’ll never bother with fix-

tures again.

Another soldering iron approach is to

turn a tip from hard aluminum, then file

a 45˚ angle on one end. Insert the tip in a

20- or 30-watt soldering iron and heat it.

Soak the wood for five minutes, then let

it dry for five minutes. (Woods take on

water faster than they can release it.) Hold

the tip against the wood to heat it. When

supple, bend the plank over a form, or

simply lift the end as heat is applied and

bend by hand.

Commercial plank benders:

Model Expo

sells an electric plank bender designed for

controlled heat. Another tool (Amati’s

Form-A-Strip, available from Model

Expo) bends planks without soaking or

heating. It looks like a pair of pliers with

one flat jaw and a chisel for the other.

When squeezed on a plank, the chisel

depresses one side of the wood, causing it

to bend. Repeat the process along the

plank until it assumes the correct curve.

However, squeezing too hard will cut the

wood in half. This tool bends planks in

only one direction, so it’s good for bow

planks, but not those at the stern.

2. Preparing the Center Keel

The center keel is laser-cut from basswood.

With a sharp pencil, draw lines below the

bulkhead slots from the slot down to the

bearding line to help align the bulkheads

when slid into the slots. Then draw the

bearding line shown on the pattern on

Plan Sheet 1. Mark on both sides of the

center keel. Be critical and measure from

several points on the plans when marking

the lines.

3. Installing the Stem, Keel,

& Sternpost

The stem, keel, and sternpost are laser-cut

from walnut. Add them to the center

keel. Taper the stem as shown on the

plans. Align and hold the pieces with

dowels, located as shown on Plan Sheet 2

or wherever suits you (

Figure 1-1

Note:

The Figure suggests tapering the

parts before installing. However, you may

find it easier to do this later. If something

is not exactly square, tapering later will

give you a chance to make the tapers

more even on each side.

4. Cutting the Rabbet

The

rabbet

is a generic term referring to

the entire groove where planks are fitted

along the stem, keel, and sternpost. The

rabbet line is the glue line between the

stem, keel, and sternpost and the center

keel. The

bearding line

is the intersection

of the center keel with the planking’s

inner face. Measure the bearding line’s

location from Plan Sheet 1 (you already

should have done this), then mark it on

both sides of the center keel.

Note:

The rabbet varies depending upon

its location. Cut the depth of the rabbet

to suit the thickness of combined outer

and inner layer of planking. Do this with

a #11 hobby blade. Using a 1/8" or 1/4"

wide flat chisel, start the rabbet cut at

the bearding line and cut a tapered

groove toward the rabbet line. The plans

show a sketch of the actual shape of the

rabbet cut.

To judge the rabbet angle, position a

scrap plank against the keel as you carve.

The double planking scheme consists of a

basic 3/64" thick first layer of basswood

covered by 0.020" walnut strips. Glue a

short piece of these strips together for

your scrap test plank. When the hull is

FIG. 1-1 INSTALLING KEEL, STEM & STERNPOST

STERNPOST

STEM

USE 1/16" DOWEL FOR ALIGNMENT

KEEL

GLUE

CENTER

KEEL

TAPER BEFORE

INSTALLING GLUE

PRE-FIT PARTS

GLUE

planked, these timbers should lie flush

on the cut portion from bearding line to

rabbet. When cutting the rabbet amid-

ships and forward, temporarily insert the

bulkheads in the center keel slots to

determine the angle the planks will take

when installed. Use your scrap plank at

these angles when cutting the rabbet. The

rabbet detail is shown on Plan Sheet 2

and in

Figure 1-2

When cutting the rabbet at the stern, work

slowly. The port and starboard rabbet cut

nearly meets at the center of the center keel.

Work too fast and you might cut through

the entire center keel.

5. Installing the Bulkheads

The bulkheads are laser-cut basswood.

Label the bulkheads A through R. Test

each one to make sure it slides into the

correct center keel slot. If the fit is too

tight, sand the slot. Bulkheads should fit

snugly with a little tolerance for glue.

Use a tick strip to transfer the bevels

shown on Plan Sheet 1 to the bulkheads.

Mark them in pencil. Cut the bevels with

a #11 hobby blade per

Figure 1-3

. Deck

bevels and side bevels amidships are

hardly measurable. These can be sanded

in after the bulkheads are installed.

The bevels are required on both the inner

and outer sides of the bulwark stanchion

extensions (

timberheads

). The extensions

on the forward bulkheads are rather thin,

so be careful not to break them off as you

work. Once the hull is planked with out-

board planking and inboard ceiling

plank, the bulwarks will have sufficient

strength. As an option, you can cut the

outside bevel for outer hull planking and

wait until the hull in planked before

beveling the inside. This would maintain

a stronger bulwark as you work on the

outer planking.

Glue the bulkheads in place. Make sure

the top of each bulkhead is flush with the

top of the center keel. Use a small

machinist square to set each bulkhead

perpendicular to the center keel, then

tack a temporary strip to the top of the

bulkhead to hold it in place while the

glue dries (

Figure 1-4

After installing all the bulkheads, check

the straightness of the center keel with

a straight edge, then tack or tape a temp-

orary batten (just a strip of wood) on

each side of the hull on the outboard

edge of the deck (

Figure 1-5

). This is a

critical step. Measure the spacing

between each bulkhead on both sides

and retack the battens until the hull is

aligned. These battens should remain in

place until you do some planking, or

better yet, add a permanent strut between

each bulkhead for added rigidity, then

remove the battens.

FIG. 1-2 CUTTING THE RABBET

INSTALL BULKHEAD TEMPORARILY

TO DETERMINE PLANK ANGLE

CHISEL

BEARDING LINE –

DON’T CUT ABOVE IT

RABBET

CUT DEPTH

WITH HOBBY KNIFE

FIT SCRAP

PLANK TO

CHECK FIT

STERN

AMIDSHIPS

FIG. 1-3 BEVELING THE BULKHEAD

SLIGHT BEVELS CAN BE

SANDED LATER

PENCIL MARKED

BEVEL

CAREFUL!

DON’T CUT INTO

MAXIMUM WIDTH

EDGE

HOBBY

KNIFE

CUT BEVEL ON

BOTH SIDES OF

BULWARK

STANCHION

EXTENSIONS

FIG. 1-4 INSTALLING BULKHEADS

FLUSH HERE

SAND BEVEL LATER

WHERE DECK HAS SHEER

GLUE

CHECK 90° ANGLE

WITH SQUARE

LINE UP ON

PENCIL MARKS

TACK

TEMPORARY

STRIP WHILE

GLUE DRIES

CAREFUL!

WATCH

WHICH SIDE

BEVEL IS ON

FIG. 1-5 ALIGNING THE HULL

TACK

TEMPORARY

BATTENS

ADD OPTIONAL PERMANENT STRUT

BETWEEN EACH BULKHEAD FOR

ADDED RIGIDITY – BOTH SIDES

CHECK SPACING BETWEEN

BULKHEADS

CHECK

STRAIGHTNESS

OF CENTER KEEL

WITH STRAIGHT

EDGE

SAME THIS SIDE

WING TRANSOM

FILLER BLOCK

FIT ROUGH SHAPED BLOCK

FINISH CARVING ON MODEL

RABBET

BEARDING LINE

BULKHEAD

“R”

BEVELED

FIG. 1-9 FRAMING THE STERN

SLOPE AND

BEVEL PER PLANS

STERN FRAMES

BULKHEAD “R”

WING TRANSOM

END BLOCK

CARVE ON MODEL

WINDOW

HEADER

AND SILL

CENTER

KEEL

Be certain the bottom of each bulkhead

feathers out at the bearding line. Trim as

necessary to line up. Bottoms on the

most narrow bulkheads may be slightly

above the bearding line caused by laser

burning the narrow wood (

Figure 1-6

Next, sand in the bevels that were not

precut. Lay a 1/8" thick square basswood

batten against the bulkhead edges at vari-

ous locations to check the hull’s fairness

(

Figure 1-7

). Sand or add shims to correct

bumps and dips. This is an important

check; hull planks must lie flat against the

bulkheads. Due to the

Virginia Sloop’s

numerous bulkheads, manufacturing or

assembly errors can occur. Beginners tend

to rush this step and jump right into

planking. Take your time and check the

fairness thoroughly. Then, you won’t run

into problems when you start planking.

6. Installing the Wing Transom,

Filler Blocks, and Transom

Frames

Carve the wing transom (two halves) from

a basswood block included in the kit. Use

the shape shown on Plan Sheet 2, and

glue the wing transom halves to the aft

side of Bulkhead R and to the center keel.

Below the wing transom, fit and carve the

basswood filler pieces. This is nothing

more than a filler between the edge of

Bulkhead R and the wing transom so the

hull planks have some gluing surface. On

a real ship, this area would also be filled

with stern framing (

Figure 1-8

On top of the wing transom and against

Bulkhead R, glue the six laser-cut bass-

wood stern frames. You will need to taper

the top and bottom first, as they sit at an

angle. Also, the center frames (one on

each side of the center keel) must be

tapered from bottom to top, or just taper

an area in way of the windows. Angle the

frames so they are in line with the sides of

the stern windows. Double check the

location of these frames, because the stern

window frames (these windows are also

called stern lights) will fit between them.

Fit a header and sill piece for each win-

dow. These can be basswood, since they

do not show after the window frames are

added. The header piece also serves to

provide end support for the cabin top

sub-deck and planking. Finally, fit and

carve the filler blocks on each side out-

board of the outer stern frame. These butt

into Bulkhead R and are carved to the

hull form.

Figure 1-9

illustrates the stern framing.

This is a good time to paint the interior

black so that nothing will show through

the windows after the planking has been

installed.

FIG. 1-6 BULKHEADS AT BEARDING LINE

TRIM IF

LONG

SHIM IF

SHORT

SMOOTH FLOW

INTO RABBET

CENTER

KEEL

BEARDING

LINE

BULKHEAD

FIG. 1-7 FAIRING THE BULKHEADS

BATTEN

SINCE GAP IS SHOWING UP AT E, G & H,

MOST LIKELY F IS THE PROBLEM

BULKHEAD. TRIM F AND RECHECK.

GAP – NEED TO ADD SHIM TO EDGE OF

BULKHEAD

SEVERAL ADJACENT BULKHEADS OK

FIG. 1-8 STERN WING TRANSOM & FILLER BLOCKS

7. Installing the Bow Filler Blocks,

Knightheads, and Timberheads

Forward of Bulkhead A, install the filler

blocks on both sides. Carve from bass-

wood blocks included in the kit. The plan

provides some sections through the block.

To aid you with carving the blocks correct-

ly, make templates from these sections. Fit

the templates as you carve the blocks —

you could easily flatten the block and not

have the fair waterline curves in way of the

block. These blocks provide a gluing sur-

face for the forward end of the hull planks.

It is suggested that you pre-carve the blocks

close to the waterlines before placing on

the model, then finish the correct shape

while on the model, using battens to make

sure the blocks flow along hull lines. Fit

the knightheads and timberheads in notch-

es cut in the filler blocks. The plan shows

the shape of theses parts (

Figure 1-10

8. Installing the Mast Mortise

Since Bulkhead F interferes with the mast

going into the hull very far, the heel of

the mast must be tapered and fit into a

socket (mortise box) on the center keel.

Figure 1-11

and Detail 2-C on Plan Sheet

2 illustrates the socket. Do the socket

now, because you cannot get to it after

the deck is planked. Cut the tenon in the

bottom of the mast so it fits the socket.

9. Gunport and Sweep Port Framing

The bulkheads are located to form the

sides of all the gunports but allow space

for lining the sides of the openings with

0.020"-thick walnut strips. The walnut

strips are not a required construction fea-

ture, but are added only to retain a walnut

covering for those who desire a natural

finish. Stage 2 discusses this further.

Fit a basswood header and sill between

the bulkheads. Add these pieces to project

slightly beyond the bulkhead extensions,

then sand flush inboard and outboard

(

Figure 1-12

The sweep ports are shaped like an oar

blade with a hole in the center for the han-

dle. Since these openings will be cut

through the bulwark, you need a filler piece

in between. Add a filler piece just wide

enough to cover the opening (

Figure 1-13

Like the gunport headers and sills, sand

flush with the bulkhead extensions. The

actual opening for the sweep ports can wait

until the exterior hull and ceiling plank are

installed; then, cut the openings through

the entire side. However, it would be a

good idea to drill the center hole for the

ports through the filler piece at this time.

10. Installing Deck Beams,

Sub-Decks, and Waterway

Deck beams:

Before you can install the

sub-decks and plank the deck you’ll need

some deck beams — one to support the ends

FIG. 1-10 FRAMING THE BOW

FILLER FOR

HAWSE HOLE

NOTCH FOR

TIMBER HEAD

NOTCH FOR

KNIGHT HEAD

BULKHEAD “A”

SAME BOTH

SIDES

RABBET

FILLER

BLOCK CARVE TO WATERLINES SHOWN

ON PLAN SHEET 2

MAKE TEMPLATE FOR EACH WATERLINE

TO AID CARVING

FIG. 1-11 MAST MORTISE

BULKHEAD “F”

GLUE SECURELY

CENTER

KEEL

1/8" OR ANY GREATER

THICKNESS

FIG. 1-12 FRAMING GUNPORTS

HEADER

SILL

SAND FLUSH

INBOARD AND

OUTBOARD

FIG. 1-13 SWEEP PORT FILLER BLOCK

SAND FLUSH

INBOARD AND OUTBOARD

SHAPE OF SWEEP PORT

CUT NOW OR AFTER

PLANKING

FIG. 1-15 INSTALLING SUB DECKS

TRIM SUB DECK IF NECESSARY

TO FIT. TIGHT FIT NOT REQUIRED.

WATERWAY WILL COVER

TACK AND GLUE TO BULKHEADS

SUB

DECK

FIG. 1-16 INSTALLING THE WATERWAY

CEILING

WATERWAY

DECK PLANK

SUB DECK

of the main deck planking at the quarter-

deck, and two to support the forward and

aft ends of the quarterdeck planking. All

three beams fit in precut notches in the cen-

ter keel. These beams are laser-cut basswood

but will need trimming on the ends to fit.

The two forward beams are butted against a

strip fitted between bulkheads (

Figure 1-14

Sub-decks:

The kit is supplied with laser-

cut 1/32" thick basswood sheet as a sub-

deck under the basswood deck planks and

walnut cabin top planking. This provides

a firm support for the hatch coamings

and deck planks. Also, many modelers

like to mark the planking runs in pencil

on the sub-deck as a guide before actually

installing the planks. The sub-decks

include cut-outs for the bulkhead timber-

head extensions and the locations of

hatches, pumps, bitts, and the mast mor-

tise. The laser-cut sub-deck may need to

be trimmed a bit to fit against the bulk-

head timberheads (

Figure 1-15

Note:

The decks have both camber and

sheer. This means the sub-deck sheet must

be bent in two directions to fit the top of

the bulkheads. Before gluing, pin the deck

bulkhead by bulkhead pinning at the center-

line, then along the side. This sort of relieves

the stress in the deck so it will fit. Just make

sure the sub-deck will lie flat on all bulk-

heads and the center keel before gluing.

The sub-decks can be glued to the bulk-

heads from below, but you will need to

use a brush or stick to reach the deck

between the narrowly spaced bulkheads.

A better way is to pre-drill small holes

through the sub-decks in way of the bulk-

heads. With the sub-decks pinned securely

to the bulkheads, squirt some super glue

through the holes. Capillary action will

distribute the glue along the bulkhead.

aterway:

The laser-cut walnut waterway

runs from the quarter deck to the bow

inside the bulwark extensions. The laser-

cut is a rectangle in cross section. Shape

it as shown on Plan Sheet 2, Section A-A

and in

Figure 1-16

. Glue the waterway on

top of the sub-decking and against the

bulwark stanchion extensions.

11. Main and After Rails

These will be installed after the hull and

bulwark planking is completed. Refer to

Stage 2.

12. Before Moving On

Before proceeding with the hull and ceiling

planking, check all the framing. Make sure

it is all in place and all nice and flush. The

framing sets the foundation for the final

planking — you don’t want to get started

and find out that something is out of skew.

Double check those bulkhead bevels, so

you know when you plank you will have a

fair hull form. Many beginners tend to rush

through this stage only to find they are

really not ready for attacking the planking.

FIG. 1-14 DECK BEAMS AT QUARTER DECK

CENTER KEEL

BULKHEAD “O”

QUARTER

DECK

BEAM –

GLUE TO

BULKHEAD

“O”

BEAM END

SUPPORTS BETWEEN

BULKHEADS “M” AND “N”

QUARTER DECK

BEAM

MAIN DECK

BEAM

Stage 2:

Planking The Hull And Installing The Rails

1. Getting Started

Most modelers find planking tedious.

Work slowly and think of each plank as a

project unto itself. Since hull sides are

identical, simultaneously cut one pair of

port and starboard planks to shape. Fit

the plank on one side, then the other.

Don’t rush. Speed results in frustration

and a poor job.

Before starting, secure the hull upside

down in a vise or cradle. Something

portable that rotates is ideal. Model Expo

sells a planking vise for this purpose.

2. Planking Battens & Belts

Hulls are easier to plank when divided

into belts. They flow along the hull in

smooth curves. Each is designed to lay

the planks against the frames without

excessive edge bending. They gently

sweep up at the ends like the deck sheer.

Planks within a belt are usually evenly

spaced, tapered, and fitted. Belts prevent

errors from accumulating.

When selecting a belt width and the num-

ber of planks it contains, consider how

the planks taper and lay against the

frames (bulkheads on our plank-on-bulk-

head model). If the planks are too wide,

they won’t lie flat against the bulkheads.

Taper them too much and not enough

stock is left for fastening. Should this hap-

pen, a larger plank must be substituted

for two planks to increase the width. In

some areas, the distance between planks

widens rather than tapers. If it becomes

too wide, a stealer must be added. While

these alterations are acceptable and are

employed on many ships, the best run

of planking limits the number of stealers.

Figure 2-1

illustrates some inserts.

Plan Sheet 2 provides in-depth details on

how to lay out the planking. Study the

fore and aft views plus the profile view to

gain a complete picture.

3. Planking Butts

Few trees grow as tall as ships are long.

Consequently, real planks were generally

20 or 30 feet in length (5" to 7-1/2" model

scale). Some modelers think a plank as

long as the hull is easier to use. They

scribe in fake butts or omit them.

Although this can be done, working with

shorter planks is more realistic and has

advantages. For example, tapers mark

quicker and planks are easier to hold and

fasten. Should a mistake occur, only a

small piece is affected.

o emulate shipwright practice, stagger

the butts (

Figure 2-2

). Follow the ship-

wright’s rules (indicated as “real ship” in

several drawings) as much as possible.

FIG. 2-1 PLANKING WITH STEALERS

STEALERS

A. PLANKS GETTING TOO WIDE

B. PLANKS GETTING TOO NARROW

SINGLE INSERT

FIG. 2-2 STAGGERING THE PLANKING BUTTS

BULKHEAD

REAL SHIP – MUST BE 5 FEET OR MORE

REAL SHIP – MUST HAVE 3 STRAKES

BETWEEN BUTTS ON SAME FRAME

Common Shipbuilding Terms Used in the Planking Process

Plank:

Single length of wood used to plank a hull or deck. A strake is a continuous

line of planks from wherever it begins to where it ends.

Garboard strake:

Planking strake adjacent to the keel.

Broad strakes:

Several planks adjacent to the garboard; wider than most but not as

wide as the garboard.

Sheer strake:

Uppermost line of planking on a hull.

Black strake:

Heavy hull strake along deck edge, so named because of its usual

color.

Wale:

Heavy plank or layer of hull strakes below the black strake.

Ceiling:

Planks on the inboard side of frames or bulwarks.

Spirketing plank:

First ceiling plank above the waterway inboard, usually forming

the sill of gun ports.

Belts:

Group of planks along the hull. Belts are laid out using battens (temporary

strips of flexible wood).

Spiling:

Process for marking and cutting a plank to a given shape.

Edge bending or springing:

To bend a plank edgewise.

Fair:

Refers to smooth, gradual curves when planking.

Nib:

The pointed end of a tapered plank. Because nibs rot first, shipwrights squared

them off, then notched the margin plank (covers outer edge of deck) to accept the

butts. Consequently, they called the margin plank the nibbing plank.

Nibbing:

Process of seating the squared, tapered end of one plank into the edge of

another. Nibbing generally applies to decks, but sometimes hull planks, especially at

the bow, are nibbed. The British call this procedure joggling.

Stealer:

Plank inserted into another plank or between two adjacent planks to reduce

their width and provide greater width of coverage. Or, when two planks taper

toward a narrow end, both may have to be cut off and a wider plank substituted to

leave enough wood for fastening.

Counter:

Underside of the overhanging portion of a ship’s stern.

4. Spiling

Edge bending planks on real ships occurs

on a limited basis. Wood is rigid, so many

planks must be cut to shape. Spiling

(

Figure 2-3

) is simply a matter of transfer-

ring curves to a straight plank, then saw-

ing them out. Many narrow planking

strips (especially on models) are flexible

enough to edge bend in place. However,

others must be spiled.

5. Fastening the Planks

Avoid the commercial plank clamp that

screws into the edges of bulkheads. This

leaves a big hole to contend with when

installing subsequent planks. Instead, hold

short pieces and use aluminum-head push

pins to position them. Be careful not to

split the wood. If necessary, drill a pilot

hole first. Smear a light film of white or

woodworker’s glue along the edge of the

plank, then touch each bulkhead with thin

cyano to affix the plank quickly. Be careful

not to glue your fingers to the model.

Another approach is to apply cyano to the

edge of a plank already in place and on the

bulkheads above it. Spray or brush the

cyano’s accelerator on the plank to be

installed, then hold it in place. The glue

sets instantly, and no clamps are necessary.

While glue alone will secure a plank, small

brass brads or wooden treenails (pro-

nounced

trunnels

) provide additional

holding power and duplicate shipwright

practice. If using brads, hammer them in

after cutting off and discarding their heads.

Treenails are commercially available, but

making your own is easy. Buy a package

of long bamboo skewers, strip off short

lengths, and pull through a drawplate to

the desired diameter. Drill holes through

the plank into the frame, dip the treenail

in white or yellow glue, and drive in

place. Nip the dowel flush with the plank-

ing. For more authenticity, add treenails

where each frame would be located on a

real ship. Although time-consuming, this

is visually correct.

Another alternative is to whittle flat

toothpicks (round ones don’t work as

well) to a point. Place the entire toothpick

in the hole, rap sharply with a 10-inch

bastard file, and break off the remaining

portion. A file works better than a ham-

mer, because its serrated surface catches

and firmly holds the head of the tooth-

pick, permitting it to be driven in tightly.

Exterior stubble is dressed and sanded

smooth when treenailing is completed.

6. Hull Planking Scheme

and Procedure

The planking scheme for this model is

shown on Plan Sheet 2.

Double vs. single planking:

Although

single planking would be the real ship

approach, this kit is designed with double

planking. The first layer of planking will be

all 3/64" thick basswood strips. The outer

layer will be 0.020" thick walnut for the

basic plank, and thicker for the black strake,

wale, and sheer strake below the rail.

As an option, you could single plank the

hull. Suggested sizes are as follows:

Basic plank — Use the 3/64" basswood pro-

vided or 1/16" thick basswood or walnut.

If 3/64" is used, use a thicker garboard

strake to fit the rabbet that was designed

for 3/64" plus 0.020" double planking.

Black strake — 3/32" thick basswood or

walnut.

Wale — 1/8" thick basswood or walnut.

Sheer strake — 3/32" thick basswood or

walnut.

The 3/64" basswood included in the kit

for the double plank underlay could be

used for the basic single plank. All other

sizes and wood types would have to be

purchased separately. Model Expo stocks

all the sizes needed.

First layer of planking: There are two ways

to approach applying the basswood under

planking:

1. Plank the entire hull in any fashion you

desire, with no regard for locations or

proper plank widths except for the wales.

ou can use as many straight planks as

possible and taper some at the ends if

necessary. All you are trying to do is

cover the entire hull with basswood. Fill

all gaps and fill cracks with wood filler,

then sand the entire surface so you have

a solid base on which to apply the outer

layer of walnut.

2. Lay out the basswood under-layer exact-

ly as you would the finished walnut

layer, using correct plank widths, and

locating the wale, black strake, and other

thicker plank areas in the correct loca-

tions on the hull. When the walnut layer

is applied, it will be identical to the

under-layer of basswood. However, in

the event there are some mistakes with

the first layer, these mistakes can be cor-

rected on the final walnut layer.

The second approach is highly recom-

mended. By planking to the rules and

correct locations of planks, you will gain

some experience laying out the planking.

Practice makes perfect. The final layer of

walnut will be much easier, since you

have already attempted it once.

The following paragraphs address the

correct locations for both the first and

final layers of planking.

Planking procedure: The transom and

counter should be planked first, both

the under planking and the walnut-fin-

ished planking. Next, the fashion piece

at the stern should be added, followed

by side planking, then end planking.

The fashion piece is introduced early,

because it covers the end grain of the

transom and counter planks, but more

importantly, the side planking above the

wale butts into the fashion piece and the

transom. The side planks do not go

under the fashion piece. Likewise, the

counter is done early since the lower hull

planking will be butting into the lowest

counter plank. This sequence will be

described below.

7. Planking the Hull

Planking the counter and transom:

The

bottom of the lowest counter plank is in

line with the bottom of the wales along-

side. The transom and counter will be

double-planked. Plank the transom with

the under-layer of basswood first and fol-

low with the outer layer of walnut. Leave

the openings for the stern windows in the

transom, and a hole for the rudder post in

the counter. Extend the transom planks

past the hull a bit to account for the quar-

ter extensions. Then shape the edge to the

correct shape for receiving the fashion

piece. An expanded view of the transom

is shown on the plans, which list exact

plank lengths and widths.

Note: The upper basswood plank for the

transom is actually two planks wide. This

is because there is no backing of the plank

above the cabin top. However, the walnut

outer layer is two separate planks.

Next, add the walnut filler piece on the

front side of the transom. This filler piece

thickens the transom, but more impor-

tantly it covers the exposed portions of

FIG. 2-3 SPILING

3. USE COMPASS – RUN STEEL POINT

ALONG PLANK IN PLACE AND MARK

PARALLEL LINE ON NEW PLANK WITH

PENCIL LEAD END 4. MEASURE WIDTH

& MARK DRAW

CURVE

PARALLEL

1. PLANK ALREADY

IN PLACE

2. WOOD – LAY ALONG BULKHEADS

WITHOUT EDGE BENDING

5. CUT OUT

PLANK

the basswood planking on the transom.

Figure 2-4

illustrates the transom and

counter planking. The filler in front of

the transom is shown in

Figure 2-5

, along

with the fashion piece discussed below.

Note:

The counter planks are straight across,

but the transom planks follow the curve of

the taffrail. So, cut these planks from wider

pieces. Make a template for the curved

planks so you can cut them all the same.

Installing the fashion pieces:

Shape and

fit the walnut fashion pieces on both

sides of the stern, covering the end grain

of the transom and counter planks. The

curved portion of the fashion piece must

also be tapered slightly so its width winds

up flush on top of the wale (

Figure 2-5

Installing the taffrail:

You might as well go

ahead and install the walnut taffrail on top

of the transom at this time, or wait until you

are working on other rails at your option.

Planking the hull sides:

At this point, you

can proceed with the hull side planking.

Do all the basswood under planking first,

then do the walnut-finished planking.

Installing the wale:

The wale is the thickest

strake and located in line with the waterway

inboard. It’s a good strake to start with.

Use a 3/64" thick basswood plank for the

first layer. It will be covered with 1/16" x

3/16" walnut later. An important note: at

the stern, the wale extends aft to the out-

side of the counter planking, so cut it off

flush with the counter planks. Since the

end of the basswood wale would show

when looking at the stern, there are a cou-

ple of options for making the exposed end

look like walnut. First, use a short length of

walnut for the wale at the very end instead

of basswood. Or, stain the end of the bass-

wood to look like walnut.

The finished width of the wale is 3/16",

but it may require cutting from a slightly

wider piece, especially the walnut. Its natu-

ral bend is almost on the button, but you

may need to cut a slight downward curve

on the top side of the plank to fit the

marks. Tick off the location for the top of

the wale from the plans and mark it on the

bulkheads. As noted, from the quarter

deck forward where the inboard waterway

is located, the top of the wale lines up with

the top of the waterway. Bend and perhaps

steam bend the wide wale piece around the

hull as close to the marks on the bulkhead

as possible. Using a spiling technique,

mark the piece. There is no plank above as

yet, so you can’t spile along a plank. Draw

a curve through the points and cut the top

edge of the plank. Now fit it to the hull

and see if it lines up on the marks. If not,

trim a little and try again until it fits. Once

the top of the plank fits, draw a parallel

line 3/16" below the top edge for the bot-

tom edge (

Figure 2-6

). You can now glue

the wale to the hull.

FIG. 2-4 PLANKING THE TRANSOM & COUNTER

CURVED TRANSOM

PLANK

WINDOW

OPENING

STRAIGHT

COUNTER

PLANK

BOTTOM PLANK IS IN LINE

WITH BOTTOM OF WALE

CUT TRANSOM ENDS TO CORRECT SHAPE

BEFORE INSTALLING FASHION PIECE

EXTEND PLANKING BEYOND

SIDE BLOCKS TO FORM WING

CUT OFF WALE FLUSH

WITH COUNTER

FIG. 2-5

TRANSOM FILLER, FASHION PIECE & TAFFRAIL

TAFFRAIL

FASHION

PIECE

WALE

FINISH EDGE OF

TRANSOM WING

TRANSOM

FILLER TO ADD

THICKNESS TO

TRANSOM

BLACK STRAKE BUTTS

INTO FASHION PIECE

FIG. 2-6 FITTING THE WALE

PENCIL MARKS

LOCATING TOP

OF WALE

BULKHEAD

1. CUT CURVE IF NECESSARY

TO FIT ON PENCIL MARKS.

TEST FIT UNTIL CORRECT

2. MEASURE 3/16", CUT BOTTOM

OF WALE PARALLEL TO TOP

FIG. 2-7 TAPERING WALE AT BOW

BASSWOOD

WALNUT

RABBET IN STEM

CUT TO

RABBET

WALE

FIG. 2-8 SCUPPERS

INNER BLACK STRAKE

LAYER

CUT SCUPPERS THROUGH

BOTH LAYERS

OUTER BLACK STRAKE

LAYER

Since the wale is thicker than the general

hull planking, taper the forward end of

the walnut layer for about 2 inches so it

fits into the stem rabbet (

Figure 2-7

Installing the black strake:

The black

strake sits on top of the wale, and both

the basswood and walnut planks will butt

into the fashion piece at the stern. Its top

edge will form the sill of the gunports.

The black strake will require cutting to

shape and steam bending.

Use 3/64" x 3/16" basswood for the first

layer. The black strake will be covered

later with 3/64" x 3/16" walnut.

Like the wale, taper the forward end for

about 2 inches so it fits into the stem

rabbet.

Before installing the black strake, cut the

half round scuppers in the lower edge

(

Figure 2-8

). This will require cuts in both

layers. At the same time, if there are any

fillers in way of the scuppers between

bulkheads, cut these out also — it’s easier

now than later. The bottom of the

inboard hole for the scuppers is in line

with the top of the waterway.

After the walnut layer is added, sand the

outboard top edge of the black strake to

form a half-round molding. This saves

adding a separate molding (

Figure 2-9

Planking above the black strake:

The

sheer strake at the very top of the bulwark

forms the top of the gunports. It extends

the full length of the hull.

Use 3/64" x 3/32" basswood for the first

layer, to be covered by 3/64" x 3/32" walnut.

From the sheer strake down to the black

strake, between the gunports, fit three

equal width 3/64" thick basswood planks

to be covered later with 0.020" thick wal-

nut. These planks will require some taper-

ing, and spiling forward.

Under the cabin top rail there is a sheer

strake similar to the sheer strake in way

of gunports.

Note:

The first three strakes of planks above

the black strake butt into the curved por-

tion of the fashion piece. Above these, the

planks butt into the wing of the transom.

Planking below the wale:

Use one layer

of 3/64" basswood. You will cover the

inner layer with 0.020" thick walnut strips.

If you don’t care how the inner layer

looks, simply forget the discussion below

and plank it anyway you like. Apply the

process only to the final walnut layer.

However, it is highly suggested that you

follow the rules on both layers. Y

ou will

get to practice on the first layer, then real-

ly do a bang-up job on the final layer.

Planking from the bottom of the wale to

the keel requires tapering fore and aft.

Consequently, the hull below the wale is

divided into Belts A through C.

FIG. 2-9 MOLDING AT TOP OF BLACK STRAKE

ROUND EDGE TO FORM MOLDING

BLACK STRAKE

WALE

FIG. 2-10 FITTING PLANKS

BUTTS SELECT-

ED MARK WITH

PENCIL (NOTE

STAGGER)

PENCIL MARK LOCATING

BULKHEAD FOR INSTALLING

TREENAILS OR PINS IF NOT

INSTALLED NOW

PLANK CUT TO SHAPE & LENGTH

(MAKE 2, ONE FOR OTHER

SIDE OF HULL)

BULKHEAD

PENCIL

MARKS

LOCATING

PLANKS

FIG. 2-11 PLANKING AT STERN

COUNTER

BULKHEAD “R”

NOT SO BAD

BELOW BULKHEAD “R”

SHARP BEND OVER

BULKHEAD “R”

Referring to Plan Sheet 2, lay a tick strip

along each bulkhead and mark the two

belt seams below the wale. Transfer these

points in pencil to the model. Now tem-

porarily tack two 1/16" x 3/32" basswood

battens along the port and starboard belt

lines. Battens assure an accurate run of

planks by correcting errors in drafting, tick

strip marking, or transferring. You don’t

need a batten at the top of Belt A, because

the wale is already in place.

Once the two battens are in place, check

their flow. Look at the model from the

side and from the bow and stern. Do the

battens have a pleasing, smooth curve?

Are they symmetrical? If necessary, adjust

the lower battens, referring to the plank-

ing profile on Plan Sheet 2. When every-

thing is fair, make sure the belt seams are

clearly visible. Remark those that aren’t.

Now, either remove the battens or leave

them in place until they interfere with

installing a plank.

Tapering plank edges:

As planking pro-

ceeds, the edges of a particular plank may

require tapering to butt flush against its

neighbor. Properly machined planks have

square edges. Butting them together on a

hull may produce small gaps. Most are

sealed with glue or wood filler, or caulked

on a real ship. Plank edges are often delib-

erately tapered, to ensure they butt

against each other while providing a suffi-

cient gap for caulking. To create a perfect-

ly smooth hull without gaps, trim each

plank edge as it is fit. The decision to

taper or rely on filler is yours.

Laying the planks in Belts A and B:

Each

belt is done separately, so planking can start

with any one. Many planks will require

spiling. You will know as soon as you try to

fit a plank and can’t edge bend it in place.

Belts A and B each include six equal

width planks amidships which are about

3/16" wide or a little less and taper to

3/32" – 1/8" at the stem. Lift the plank

widths from the hull planking layout (fore

and aft view) with a tick strip. Mark these

lines on the bulkheads in pencil. Mark

any stealers as shown on the plans. Belts

A and B are now completely marked.

The next step is to cut planks to fit

between the marks. First, decide where

you want plank butts to go. Y

ou may have

two or three planks for each strake. Mark

the butt locations on the bulkheads and

don’t forget to stagger the butts per the

rules. Next, lay a piece of planking stock

over the bulkheads and determine if it

needs to be spiled. If so, spile the plank

edge to fit the previous plank. Next, in

pencil, mark the overall length and cut the

plank to its final length. Then, mark the

position of each bulkhead (important for

measuring the plank width and to know

the location of bulkheads for treenailing).

Using a set of dividers or tick strip, lift the

plank widths from the marks on the bulk-

heads and transfer to the stock. Draw a

line through the points and cut the plank.

Trace this tapered plank to obtain another

for the other side of the hull (

Figure 2-10

Continue until this run is finished, then

complete the others in Belts A and B. The

planks going over Bulkheads Q and R

and butting into the lower counter plank

take a severe bend. So, steam bend the

planks where they curve sharply at the

counter. This is primarily for Belt A. Belt

B planks start going into the sternpost

rabbet (

Figure 2-11

). Steam bending may

also be required at the bow for the upper

planks. Test each plank to see how easily

it bends. If it appears the plank may break

or be difficult to fasten, then steam bend.

Laying the Planking in Belt C:

This belt

consists of the garboard strake a little

wider than 3/16" and two broad strakes

about 3/16" wide amidships. Mark the

butts as you did on the other belts. Use

the planking profile on Plan Sheet 2 to

determine the plank widths in Belt C aft.

The fore and aft planking view can’t show

all the planks aft, so this view is necessary.

Make sure the garboard fits nicely into

the rabbet along the keel. The garboard

will be a most difficult strake to fit, so

take your time.

8. Completing the Double Planked Hull

Outer hull planking:

If all went well above,

you should have a completed first layer of

planks of 3/64" thick basswood. Sand the

entire hull until smooth. Now is the time

to add the outer layers of walnut for the

basic plank, wale, black strake, and sheer

strake. If you followed all the rules and laid

out the inner layer properly, the walnut

can be laid directly over the basswood,

using the basswood seams as a guide for

the walnut seams. If your under-layer

below the wale was installed without

regard for proper widths and tapered

planks, then you must go back and follow

the layout rules addressed in paragraph 6,

following the belt approach.

Gunport lining:

Within each gunport

there will be some basswood showing —

namely bulkhead extensions, sill, header,

and black strake inner layer. To cover the

basswood, line the entire gunport open-

ing with 0.020" walnut. If the model is to

be painted, this step could be ignored.

9. Installing Bulwark Ceiling Planks

The waterways were already installed on

the sub-deck in Stage 1. The ceiling for

the bulwark inboard is 3/64" thick walnut

except for a 1/16" thick walnut spirketing

plank at the waterway. This thick plank

holds the fittings for cannon rigging.

Before installing this plank, cut the scup-

per holes in the lower edge in line with

the holes in the black strake outboard.

Use one plank above the gunports, one

for the spickering plank, and three equal

width planks in way of the gunports

(

Figure 2-12

FIG. 2-12 INSTALLING BULWARK CEILING PLANKS

CEILING

3/64‘ WALNUT

1/16" WALNUT

SPIRKETING

PLANK

SWEEP

PORT

CUT SCUPPERS IN LINE WITH

SCUPPERS IN BLACK STRAKE

FIG. 2-13 MAIN DECK PLANKING

WATERWAY NIBBING STRAKE

VIEW OF DECK FORWARD

ONLY 3 NIBBED PLANKS FORWARD

NO NIBS FORWARD OF THESE

SUB DECK

UNDER

WATERWAY

GUN

PORT

10. Installing Coamings, Deck

and Cabin Planking

Hatch and companionway coamings:

The

main hatch, galley hatch, scuttle, and com-

panionway coamings are located on the

laser-cut sub-decking. Install the walnut

coamings before you add the final bass-

wood decking strips. Deck planks look best

if fitted around coamings rather than hav-

ing them glued on top of them. Look

ahead to Stage 5 for coaming details.

Main deck planks:

The deck planking is

3/64" thick basswood. There is a nibbing

strake adjacent to the waterway. Main

deck planks are laid parallel to the center-

line (

Figure 2-13

When installing the decking, leave open-

ings like the ones on the sub-deck. There

are openings for the galley stack, the bitts,

the pumps, and the mast mortise.

Front of quarter deck (step):

Plank the

vertical front of the quarter deck with the

same width basswood planks used for the

deck itself (

Figure 2-14

Quarter deck planks:

This is the short deck

where the steering wheel is located. Plank

similar to the main deck. The planks at the

front go over top of the vertical step planks.

Cabin top planks:

The walnut planks for

the cabin top taper aft as shown on the

plans. Before completing the planking,

you should install the quarter deck/cabin

rail (see paragraph 10).

Cabin front planks:

Plank the front of

the cabin with vertical walnut planks

directly onto the bulkhead. At the same

time, add the door planks. Chamfer (just

sand) the edges of all the planks, includ-

ing the door planks so the seams show up

better. Refer to Stage 5 for door hardware.

Caulking deck planks:

Paint one plank

edge black or dark brown to simulate deck

caulking. Be careful! Too much paint will

penetrate too deeply with unsightly

results. Do a test first. If it doesn’t work,

edge glue the planks with brown wood-

worker’s glue. This adhesive dries dark

enough to replicate caulking.

Procedure:

Start planking the deck at the

centerline and work outboard. Scrape off

any glue that squeezes out before adding

the next plank. Butts can be included or

omitted. On a real ship, they don’t show

up as readily as the seams. Butts can also

be scribed after the plank is laid.

11. Installing the Main and

Quarter Deck, and Cabin Rails

Main rail:

The main rail is laser-cut walnut

and is slightly oversize (width) so it can be

properly fitted. The rail should be sanded

flush with the ceiling plank inboard and

should overhang the outer hull plank by

about 1/64". The finished width is 7/32"

(

Figure 2-15

Roughly fit the rail, then sand the

inboard side flush. Use some pins to help

hold the rail in place. Check the rail out-

board and sand until you have the 1/64"

overhang all along the edge. The main rail

on the real ship actually goes to the stern.

For the model you can add a fake strip of

walnut from the quarter deck rail aft to

the stern (

Figure 2-16

Quarter deck/cabin rail:

Apply this rail

as you did the main rail. Use 1/16" wal-

nut stripwood, 7/32" wide. The outboard

edge overhangs the hull planking by

1/64". The inboard edge in way of the

cabin is left square to act as a waterway

for the cabin top (

Figure 2-17

FIG. 2-14 PLANKING THE STEP AT QUARTER DECK

BEAMS

STEP

PLANK

MAIN

DECK

PLANK

QUARTER DECK PLANK

FIG. 2-15 INSTALLING THE MAIN RAIL

1/64" OVERHANG

OUTBOARD

EDGE FLUSH

WITH CEILING

INBOARD

MAIN RAIL

PIN IN BULKHEAD

TO ALIGN

FIG. 2-16 FALSE MAIN RAIL AFT

CABIN TOP RAIL

MAIN RAIL

FIG. 2-17 INSTALLING THE CABIN TOP RAIL

CABIN TOP RAIL

CABIN TOP

PLANK

SUB DECK

Stage 4:

Mounting the Hull

FIG. 4-2 DR. FELDMAN’S STAND

SHAPE TO FIT HULL

MAHOGANY OR ANY

OTHER WOOD

MOUNT HULL SO

WATERLINE IS PARALLEL TO

BASE

FIG. 4-1 BUILDING THE LAUNCHING WAYS

SIDE SUPPORT

STRUT P/S

WATERLINE

PARALLEL TO BASE

SIDE SUPPORT

STRUT P/S

ALL TIMBERS

1/4" SQ. BASSWOOD

SUPPORT BLOCKS

HEIGHT SET SO MODEL

WATERLINE WILL BE

PARALLEL TO BASE

5" – 5-1/2"

WIDE

SUPPORT

RAIL

CROSS TIMBERS

KEEL BLOCKS

Stage 3:

Completing the Basic Hull Structure

Correcting and Sanding

After installing the planking, examine

the hull for starved glue joints. Fill

these with wood glue and, if necessary,

wood filler or model spackling com-

pound, then smooth the hull and deck

with sandpaper.

If a natural finish for the walnut is select-

ed, use dark wood filler such as walnut

for the seams.

Mounting the hull now prevents damaging

it when handling the model. Proper mount-

ing is important, because future alignments

will require a true waterline. While any

modeler can devise his own mounting, this

kit contains a launching ways system. Other

options are noted below.

No baseboard is included in the kit. Howev-

er, one can be purchased from Model Expo.

Or, make your own from lumberyard stock.

Cherry, walnut, and maple make nice bases

that are relatively inexpensive. Or, you

could use a simple plywood base and build

a shipyard diorama — the choice is yours.

1. Launching Ways

This type of mounting is most suitable for

models without sails. Basswood strips are

provided in the kit. Stain the basswood to

look like weathered wood or use a more

finished looking stain. See

Figure 4-1

for

assembly. Adjust the mounting as neces-

sary so the models load waterline is paral-

lel with the baseboard.

2. Option – Mounting on Pedestals

Brass or wooden pedestals can be pur-

chased from Model Expo. Drill the pilot

holes for the pedestals. The model should

sit with the load waterline parallel to the

baseboard. If something went awry and

the balance is off, you can add a brass

shim under one pedestal to correct it.

One pedestal should be longer than the

other, so buy the correct lengths.

3. Option – Dr. Feldman’s Stand

Figure 4-2

illustrates the stand that Dr.

Feldman made for his model, which is

featured in his book.

Note:

It is recommended that either choice

mounting piece be finished before mount-

ing the hull assembly into place.

Models should be cased to protect them

from dirt and damage. Furthermore, most

competitions require entries to be cased. A

case is a cheap insurance policy. Those who

wish to follow this route should use the base-

board as the bottom of the case. A case’s out-

side dimension should be at least 4" longer

than the model (2" fore and aft), 4" wider

(2" port and starboard), and 2" higher.

For the gamblers who don’t want a case,

round the baseboard’s top edges or cut a

simple chamfer. Those with access to a

router can cut mouldings along the edges.

Paint or stain the baseboard.

FIG. 5-3 BUILDING THE BINNACLE

FAKE HINGE FOR TOP

(WIRE) HINGED

TOP

FORWARD

PANEL

SIDE

PANEL

FEET

VENT

HOLES

AFT

PANEL

BEVEL EDGES

TO EMPHASIZE

SEAMS

PIN HEAD

KNOBS

WINDOW

TO VIEW

COMPASS

GLASS OR

CLEAR

PLASTIC

FIG. 5-4 BOOM CRUTCHES

ROUND EDGES LASER CUT BOOM

CRUTCH P/S

CLEAT

TAFFRAIL

CABIN TOP RAIL

BOTTOM

OPTIONAL

FAKE

DRAWERS

The cut-outs in the laser-cut sub-decks

locate the hatch and companionway

coamings, mast, galley stack, riding bitts,

and pumps. Other items such as catheads,

timberheads, eyebolts, and cleats can be

located in relation to these, or from some

other benchmark such as a gunport.

Lightly mark their positions in pencil.

1. Anchors, Catheads, and

Anchor Stowage

The anchor shanks are britannia castings.

Fashion the anchor stocks from wood strip

either from walnut or basswood. The bands

around the stocks can be 1/64" x 1/16"

brass strip provided in the kit, or as an

option, paper bands or just painted bands.

The catheads are laser-cut walnut. They

need to be sanded down to 5/32" thick

from the 3/16" thick laser-cut parts. (It was

uneconomical to include 5/32" with the

laser-cuts, as it would have been the only

part in this thickness.) Also, you may need

to shape the catheads a bit to fit the bul-

wark. Before installing the catheads, drill

four holes at the outer end and cut a shal-

low groove between the holes to represent

sheaves for the hoisting line tackle. Or, you

can add real brass sheaves, but these are

not included in the kit. An additional hole

is required for the bitter end of the hoist-

ing tackle just inboard of the sheave holes.

For stowage, the anchor can be hung

from the cathead on the cat block hook,

or hoisted up on the rail forward and tied

off to the timberhead just ahead of the

cathead. Make the cat hook from 0.020"

dia. wire included in the kit. The hoisting

line belays to the timberhead just aft of

the catheads (

Figure 5-1

The actual length of the anchor and

stowage are unknown. However, this ship

most likely anchored in fairly shallow

water most of the time, so about 100 feet

of anchor cable on each anchor would be

reasonable. That’s 25 inches for the

model. In use, the anchor cables would

be hitched around the riding bitts. For

stowage, the cable could be in a long coil

on deck behind the catheads, but was

most likely removed and stowed below

via the small scuttle. You could also leave

the cables attached to the anchors and

have the lines leading below through the

scuttle with hatch cover set aside. No real

answer here. Use whatever you think will

look best on the model.

The anchor buoys can be stowed inboard

on the timberheads. The buoy can be

turned in a lathe or hand-carved. It’s just a

simple egg-shaped block. The rope harness

for the buoy is rather small to detail. You

can simply glue the lines, or even fake the

lines with black paint (

Figure 5-2

Stage 5:

Adding The Hull Details

FIG. 5-1 STOWING THE ANCHORS

CATHEAD

LASH TO TIMEBERHEAD

ANCHOR CABLE

BUOY LINE

SEE FIG. 5-2

FIG. 5-2 STOWING THE ANCHOR BUOYS

TIMBERHEAD

BUOY

OPTION – LAY BUOY

ON THE DECK

ROPE HARNESS

GLUE LINES OR FAKE WITH

PAINT AS OPTION

WOOD

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Model Shipways ARMED VIRGINIA SLOOP 1768 2160 User manual

Brand: Model Shipways

Model: ARMED VIRGINIA SLOOP 1768 2160

Type: User manual

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Model Shipways ARMED VIRGINIA SLOOP 1768 2160 User manual

Model Shipways ARMED VIRGINIA SLOOP 1768 2160 User manual

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