Deagostini Suzuki Hayabusa GSX 1300R User guide

Brand: Deagostini

Model: Suzuki Hayabusa GSX 1300R

Category: Motorcycle Accessories

Type: User guide

Pack 07

HAYABUSA

SUZUKI GSX 1300R

SUZUKI GSX 1300R HAYABUSA

CONTENTS

www.model-space.com

Stage 21: The front side reectors and steering damper

Stage 22: The rear wheel balance weight

Stage 23: The rear tyre

Stage 24: The rear brake disc and rear sprocket

Page

Assembly Guide

Editorial and design by Continuo Creative, 39-41 North Road, London N7 9DP.

Published in the UK by De Agostini UK Ltd, Battersea Studios 2,

82 Silverthorne Road, London SW8 3HE.

Published in the USA by De Agostini Publishing USA, Inc., 915 Broadway,

Suite 609, New York, NY 10010.

Not suitable for children under the age of 14.

is product is not a toy and is not designed or intended for use in play.

SUZUKI GSX 1300R Hayabusa: Assembly Guide

STAGE 21 Area you are working on Detail

The front side

reectors and

steering damper

Tools Prepare Useful to have

Phillips screwdriver (Stage 7)

Cross wrench

Tweezers

Front fork assembly (Stage 9)

Masking tape

Plastic bag

Pen

Multi-purpose adhesive

Your parts

The steering damper is a device for

absorbing vibrations in the steering

that occur during running. The impact

from the road surface is absorbed by

the suspension forks, but without the

steering damper, any impact to the

steering system would be transmitted

directly to the rider. Mounting a

shock absorber on the axis of rotation

of the front forks prevents this. The

steering damper is reproduced on the

model, showing the attention to detail

achieved with your Suzuki Hayabusa.

Prepare the

front fork

assembly from

Stage 9. Use the cross wrench to

loosen and remove the 2.3 × 8mm

hex screws from either side of the

front forks (circled).

Adhesive sheet

Steering damper case

Damper shaft

Front left reector mount

Front right reector mount

Front reectors × 2

2 × 11mm lag screws × 2

M2 nuts × 2

2.3 × 6mm screws × 12

Peel away the backing from the adhesive

sheet, leaving the two adhesive discs

intact, as shown in the inset.

SUZUKI GSX 1300R Hayabusa: Assembly Guide

Push the reector into the recessed

area, making sure it is secure.

Place the back of one reector into

the recessed circle of one of the

reector mounts.

Place the hole in the left reector

mount over the hole in the left fork

from which the 2.3 × 8mm screw

was removed in Step 1.

Remove one of the discs from the

adhesive sheet and place it onto

the back (silver side) of one of

the reectors. Repeat this for the

second reector. Then remove the

backing from the adhesive disc.

Repeat this process with the second

reector and reector mount.

Left Right

Align the area around the hole

of the reector mount with the

recessed section of the bracket at

the end of the fork.

Use the cross wrench to tighten the

2.3 × 8mm screw into place.

Align the holes and insert the 2.3 ×

8mm screw removed in Step 1.

Turn the front forks over and x the

right reector mount in place.

Insert one of the 2 × 11mm lag

screws into the hole at the end of the

damper shaft, as shown.

SUZUKI GSX 1300R Hayabusa: Assembly Guide

Insert the end of the lag screw into

the hole projecting forward on the

bottom yoke. Place an M2 nut over the end of

the screw.

Place the end of the damper case with

the projecting hole over the end of the

damper shaft.

Wrap some masking tape around the

steering damper shaft, to temporarily hold

the case in place.

Move the damper shaft back and

forth, to conrm that the screw is

secure and to make sure that the

shaft isn't too loose at the screw.

Hold the nut against the end of the

screw, then tighten the screw into

the nut with a screwdriver.

Check that the damper case moves

smoothly along the shaft. If it doesn't,

remove it from the shaft and check the

holes at either end, as there may be a

blockage. Use the end of some tweezers

to try and open the hole.

If the damper shaft is loose, apply

a tiny amount of multi-purpose

adhesive to the end of the screw,

by the nut, to hold them together.

This stage is now complete.

Store any leftover parts, along

with the unused 2.3 × 6mm

screws, in a plastic bag labelled

with this stage’s number.

18 20

Stage

complete!

SUZUKI GSX 1300R Hayabusa: Assembly Guide

STAGE 22

Area you are working on Detail

The rear wheel

balance weight

Rear wheel

Double-sided tape

Balance weights × 5

Tools Prepare

Tweezers Plastic bag

Pen

Your parts

Like the front wheel, the rear wheel

of the Hayabusa is a hollow structure

made of aluminium alloy, which oers

sucient strength and rigidity while

being much lighter than steel. This

also meant that the wheels cost less to

produce, which helped to make this

bike more aordable. In this series, the

wheels are die-cast with an emphasis

on how they look. This means that they

are overweight for the scale, but they

closely match the style and texture of

the actual motorcycle’s wheels.

Peel o one of the tabs of double-sided

tape from the strip.

Place it into the recessed area of one of

the balance weights.

SUZUKI GSX 1300R Hayabusa: Assembly Guide

This stage is now complete. Two

balance weights have been xed to the

inside of the rear wheel. Usually, up to

three would be tted on the real bike,

so you can add another one if it is to

your liking. Store the leftover balance

weights safely in a labelled plastic bag.

You can x the balance weight to any point on the inside

of the wheel, but generally it would be placed opposite the

valve.

Press down on the second weight to secure it.

Prepare another balance weight and x it next to the rst.

Press down on the weight to make sure the double-sided

tape is securely stuck to the wheel.

Valve

Stage

complete!

SUZUKI GSX 1300R Hayabusa: Assembly Guide

STAGE 23

Area you are working on

Detail

The rear tyre

Rear tyre

Prepare

Rear wheel (Stage 22)

Plastic bag

Toothbrush

Your parts

As with the front tyre, the rear tyre was

a newly designed, state-of-the-art piece,

developed to deal with the speeds the

Hayabusa could achieve. It was designed

with the expertise that came from the

motorcycle racing world. The model’s tyre

is made from hollow rubber, and, together

with the wheel, it accurately replicates

the real thing.

Soften the rubber of the rear tyre by

twisting it with your hands.

Use a toothbrush to clean any dirt or

remaining dust left over from the casting

process from the surface of the tyre.

SUZUKI GSX 1300R Hayabusa: Assembly Guide

This stage is now complete. You will be using the wheel in the

next stage, so don’t store it away yet.

Prepare the rear wheel from Stage 22. Look at the photo

above, and the tip box on the right, to see the correct

orientation for both the wheel and the tyre.

When one side of the tyre is properly positioned on the

wheel, turn them around and repeat the process to t

the other side of the tyre.

Fit the rear wheel into the tyre, lifting the wall of the tyre

over the rim of the wheel and rotating the assembly as

you work.

Rotate the assembly when nished, to check that the

wheel and tyre are properly tted together.

Unlike the front wheel and tyre, the rear wheel and tyre

have to be tted the correct way round. The assembly

in the photo above shows the tyre from the front, with

some of the left side of the wheel showing. Ensure that

the tread pattern is correctly orientated when you t

the tyre to the wheel.

Direction of travel

(front)

Stage

complete!

When viewed from

the front, the tread

pattern is a staggered

V-shape (blue lines).

The side of the

wheel with a

large hole is the

left side.

Tip

SUZUKI GSX 1300R Hayabusa: Assembly Guide

STAGE 24

Area you are working on

Detail

The rear brake

disc and rear

sprocket

Prepare

Rear wheel (Stage 23)

Plastic bag

Small plastic container (larger than the rear sprocket)

Dishwashing detergent

Metal primer

Toothbrush

Metal polish/cloth

Cotton swab

Your parts

The drive chain rotates the rear

sprocket mounted on the rear wheel.

Inevitably, this part of the bike gets

dirty, and to replicate this on the die-

cast sprocket of the model, you can

make its surface corrode and appear

dirty, making the model seem more

realistic and used. You can, of course,

choose simply to leave the sprocket

clean, making the bike appear new.

Rear sprocket

Rear brake disc

Take the rear sprocket, a toothbrush and a

small container with water and detergent

in it. The sprocket will come covered in

an oily lm which over time will generate

rust, you need to remove the oil before

proceeding. If you want your model to

look like a new and unused bike, you can

leave the sprocket clean. Scrub o the oil

from the surface of the sprocket, using the

toothbrush and soapy water.

Empty the soapy water from the container,

then ll it with clean water. Rinse the rear

sprocket in the water to clean away the oil

and detergent.

SUZUKI GSX 1300R Hayabusa: Assembly Guide

Shown above are a clean ‘new’ sprocket

(left) and a corroded ‘used’ sprocket (right).

You can use water to cause the corrosion,

or use the faster method of a salt solution

or vinegar. Whichever method you choose,

make sure that you check the surface

frequently, and remove the sprocket

when you have achieved the desired level

of corrosion. Make sure that you wash it

thoroughly afterwards.

Polish the raised details, such as the

heads of the bolts, with a cotton swab.

Apply the metal polish to both sides of the

sprocket’s teeth, and wipe them with a

cloth to clean o the corrosion. Repeat as

many times as you want, until you achieve

the desired nish.

When you are nished polishing the rear

sprocket, it’s a good idea to spray it with a

clear metal primer. This will preserve and

protect its surface. Place the sprocket on some cardboard, and

spray it with the metal primer from about

25cm away. Move the spray back and forth

over the sprocket, never focusing on just

one area. When one side is done, turn the

sprocket over and spray the other side.

This is an example of a nished ‘used’

rear sprocket. This level of realism could

not easily have been achieved by using

paint. Use a toothbrush or cotton swab to

remove any unwanted residue left over

from the polishing process.

Corrosion can be triggered relatively

easily on the die-cast metal used to make

the sprocket. You can use water, which

to get the ‘used’ eect shown on the

right could take a few days to achieve.

Alternatively, you can speed up the

process by using a salt solution

or vinegar.

‘New’ ‘Used’

After treating the sprocket to corrode the

surface, make it more realistic by polishing

the teeth, which on a real bike would be

kept clean by the chain. First, you will need

a cloth and some metal polish.

Tip

SUZUKI GSX 1300R Hayabusa: Assembly Guide

Place the sprocket onto the side of

the wheel, keeping the cutout and the

projection aligned. Try turning the sprocket from side to

side (red arrows). If it doesn't move, it is

correctly seated. If it does, remove it and

check that the cutout on the sprocket ts

properly over the projection on the hub. If

not, you may need to widen the cutout or

reduce the size of the projection. Do this

very carefully, using a suitable small le.

This stage is now complete.

Keep the rear wheel in a plastic

bag, as the sprocket is not yet

fully secured.

Place the three pins into the corresponding holes, and push

them into place.

Turn the wheel around and locate the small projection on

the hub and the small cutout in the ridge of the sprocket

(both circled).

To t the brake disc to the rear wheel, rst line up the three

pins on the inside of the disc with the three holes on the

right-hand side of the hub, into which they will t.

1210

Stage

complete!

144

SUZUKI GSX 1300R Hayabusa: Assembly Guide

Deagostini Suzuki Hayabusa GSX 1300R User guide

Brand: Deagostini

Model: Suzuki Hayabusa GSX 1300R

Category: Motorcycle Accessories

Type: User guide

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Deagostini Suzuki Hayabusa GSX 1300R User guide

Deagostini Suzuki Hayabusa GSX 1300R User guide

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