WattAge MiG-15 EDF Instructions For Final Assembly

Brand: WattAge

Model: MiG-15 EDF

Category: Toys & accessories

Type: Instructions For Final Assembly

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an Email at service@globalhobby.net

Specifications:

●

Wing Span: 29.5 Inches

●

Wing Area: 163 Square Inches

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Length: 28 Inches

●

Weight RTF: 19 Ounces

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Functions: Ailerons, Elevator & Throttle (Steering Optional)

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Power: Modified 380 Motor w/6 Blade Powerfan 400

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Radio Required: 4Ch Micro w/3 Micro Servos (4 w/Optional Steering)

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ESC Required: 15-30 AMP Depending on Number of Servos Used

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Battery Required: 10C 1100Mah 2/3A NiMH or 10C 500Mah 2/3AR

INSTRUCTIONS FOR FINAL ASSEMBLY

The Wattage MiG-15 EDF is distributed exclusively by

Global Hobby Distributors 18480 Bandilier Circle,

Fountain Valley, CA 92708

Distributors Version V1.0 October 2002

Kit Product Number 128342

IMPORTANT The Wattage MiG-15 EDF is not intended for inexperienced pilots. It is in no way a trainer. If you are

not comfortable flying low-wing sport models, we strongly suggest returning the MiG-15 EDF (brand new, in the box

with all original packaging) to the place of purchase. If you are comfortable flying low-wing sport aircraft, and even if

this is your first EDF, you should find the Wattage MiG-15 EDF a pleasure to fly.

A Sport-Scale Model of the Famous Soviet-Designed Mikoyan-Gurevich MiG-15

Visit our website at http://watt-age.globalhobby.com or for Customer Service at http://globalservices.globalhobby.com

TABLE OF CONTENTS

This R/C airplane is not a toy! If misused or abused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only

in open areas and preferably at a dedicated R/C flying site. We suggest having a qualified instructor carefully inspect your

airplane before its first flight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this airplane, your radio control

system and any other components purchased separately.

SAFETY WARNING

OUR GUARANTEE

Wattage guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This does not cover any component

parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Wattage's liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.

In that Wattage has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed for any damage resulting from

the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

FOR YOUR INFORMATION

To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgeable help with assembly and

during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area whose membership includes qualified

instructors. If there is no hobby shop in your area, we recommend that you contact the AMA at the address below. They will be able to

help you locate a flying field near you.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie IN 47302-9252

(800) 435-9262

www.modelaircraft.org

Safety Warning ...................................................................................... 2

Introduction ............................................................................................ 3

Section 1: Our Recommendations.......................................... 4

Section 2: Tools and Supplies Required ................................ 6

Section 3: Kit Contents ........................................................... 7

Section 4: Motor & EDF Fan Unit Assembly .......................... 8

Section 5: Fuselage Assembly ............................................... 9

Section 6: Wing Panel Installation ........................................ 12

Section 7: Horizontal & Vertical Stabilizer Installation ......... 15

Section 8: Control Systems Installation ................................ 20

Section 9: ESC & Receiver Installation ................................ 24

Section 10: Canopy & Nose Cone Installation ..................... 26

Section 11: Flight Battery Installation ................................... 27

Section 12: Optional Landing Gear Installation ................... 31

Section 13: Balancing the MiG-15 EDF ............................... 35

Section 14: Control Throws ................................................... 35

Section 15: Preflight Check & Safety ................................... 36

Section 16: Flying the MiG-15 EDF ...................................... 37

Section 17: Replacement Parts ............................................ 38

Product Evaluation Sheet ................................................................... 35

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an Email at service@globalhobby.net

This instruction manual is designed to guide you through the entire final assembly process of your new airplane in the

least amount of time possible. Along the way you'll learn how to properly assemble your new airplane and also learn

tips that will help you in the future. We have listed some of our recommendations below. Please read through them

before beginning assembly.

●

Please read through each step before beginning

assembly. You should find the layout very complete

and straightforward. Our goal is to guide you through

assembly without any of the headaches and hassles

that you might expect.

●

There are check boxes next to each step. After

you complete a step, check off the box. This will help

prevent you from losing your place.

●

Cover your work table with brown paper or a soft

cloth, both to protect the table and to protect the parts.

●

Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to put

the small parts in after you open the accessory bags.

●

We're all excited to get a new airplane in the air, but

take your time. This will ensure you build a straight,

strong and great flying airplane.

●

If you come across this symbol

☞

, it means that

this is an important point or an assembly hint.

If you should find a part missing or damaged, or have any questions about assembly, please

Global Services

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley CA 92708

Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236 Email: service@globalhobby.net

INTRODUCTION

Thank you for purchasing the new Wattage MiG-15 EDF. Before completing the final assembly of your new

airplane, please carefully read through this instruction manual in its entirety. Doing so will ensure your success

the first time around!

Wattage MiG-15 EDF Special Features:

●

Completely Prebuilt from Molded Foam for Light Weight and Strength

●

All Airframe Parts Come Prepainted

●

Includes Wattage Modified 380 EDF Motor w/Wattage Power Fan 400 Ducted Fan Unit

●

Includes Optional Landing Gear & Hardware for Optional Steerable Nose Gear

●

Uses Dual Aileron and Separate Elevator Control for Crisp Control Response

●

Flight Battery is Easily Accessible from the Bottom of the Fuselage

●

Includes Clear Molded Canopy and Decal Set

●

All Hardware Included - Even a Servo Extension for the Elevator Servo

●

Quick, Easy Assembly. This Instruction Manual Includes Over 60 Digital Photos to Guide You

To serve your needs better, please include your email address with any correspondence you send to us. Your email

address will be added to our Customer Service Database so you will automatically receive free updates and tech

notices for your particular product. You will also receive repair status updates (if applicable) and other important

information about your product as it becomes available.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS

Global Hobby Distributors will not disclose the information it collects to outside parties. Global Hobby Distributors does not sell,

trade, or rent your personal information to others . Your privacy is important to us.

Visit Our Website

http://globalservices.globalhobby.com

Visit our website at http://watt-age.globalhobby.com or for Customer Service at http://globalservices.globalhobby.com

This section describes our recommendations to help you in deciding which types of accessories to purchase for your

new Wattage MiG-15 EDF. Please read through this entire section very carefully. We have provided you with tips

and recommendations that, if followed, will result in a great flying airplane. Failure to follow our recommendations

may result in a poorly flying airplane or an airplane that doesn't fly at all.

SECTION 1: OUR RECOMMENDATIONS

What Servos Do I Use?

The servos you use should be the lightest available, yet still have an adequate amount of torque. We suggest using servos

that weigh no more than 0.22 ounces and have a torque rating of no less than 7.0 ounces per square inch. Cirrus CS-10

servos or Hitec HS-50 servos would be a perfect choice.

What Receiver Do I Use?

The receiver should be as light as possible, preferably 1/2oz. or less. Most four-channel micro receivers would be a good

choice. If you plan on using the Hitec 555 Micro receiver, we suggest removing the case to reduce the receiver's overall

weight. If you do remove the case from your receiver we strongly suggest wrapping the receiver with heat-shrink material

to protect the internal components.

Important Note: We don't suggest using short-range receivers like the Hitec Feather or Cirrus MRX-4. The range

provided by these receivers will not be long enough for you to keep control of the airplane.

What Electronic Speed Control Do I Use?

The ESC you choose should be capable of handling 15 - 20 amps continuous current. Again, lighter is better. Your ESC

should weigh no more than 1 ounce including the wiring and switch.

Important Note: Although a 15 amp ESC may work with our recommended battery, motor and fan unit, it is right at

the low end of the scale. Since some customers may wish to experiment with other motors and batteries, chances are

a 20 - 30 amp ESC will then be necessary because of the higher current draw; therefore, we recommend just starting

with a higher capacity ESC. Also, some 15 - 20 Amp ESCs don't support the use of more than three servos. If you

choose to install the optional nose gear steering on your MiG-15 EDF, you will then be using four servos. Check the

specifications of the ESC you choose to make sure it will support the use of four servos.

Important Note: When choosing accessories for your MiG-15 EDF, such as servos, ESC, receiver and accesso-

ries, it's very important to take the weight of these items into consideration. Remember, the lighter the overall

weight of the finished airplane, the better the airplane will fly.

What Flight Battery Do I Use?

To get good flight performance you need to use the right type of flight battery. You need a flight battery that can

deliver enough voltage and be able to handle current draw up to approximately 15 amps. For the best performance

we suggest using the new Wattage 10 cell 1100Mah 2/3A NiMH flight packs. These flight packs work very well in this

application, providing as much power as 2/3A NiCD packs and about twice as much flight time. If you don't want to use

NiMH flight packs, good quality NiCD flight packs will also work well. We have had good success using 10 cell 600AE

flight packs and 10 cell 500AR flight packs.

Important Note: At the time of this writing, the majority of NiMH cells available do not produce the voltage

necessary, nor can they withstand the high current draw experienced with high-draw ducted fan motors. Our

optimized NiMH cells are the only ones we know of that do. We don't suggest using just ordinary NiMH cells in this

application, because poor flight performance will likely result.

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an Email at service@globalhobby.net

OUR RECOMMENDATIONS, CONTINUED....

We've provided some special tips for you to keep in mind when assembling your MiG-15 EDF. These tips are provided to

make your flights with your MiG-15 EDF successful. Please don't overlook this valuable information. If you don't

follow these special tips, we can't guarantee your success.

●

The motor included with your MiG-15 EDF has been specially designed for high RPM ducted fan use. It has been

run, tested and oiled for you at the factory before being included in your kit; therefore, motor break-in is not necessary.

Just test the motor/fan unit after wiring it up to make sure everything is working properly before installing it into

the airplane .

●

Every 10-15 flights we strongly suggest re-oiling the motor bushings using a good quality machine oil. This will keep

your motor running at its peak and prevent premature wear. To access the motor bushings, it's easiest to use a spray

oil with an extension wand.

●

You should charge and cycle the flight battery 2-3 times before your first flight. When new, NiMH and NiCD batteries

need to be cycled before they produce their peak power output and charge capacity.

●

Before every flight, you must "top off" the flight battery with your charger. Do not charge the flight battery the night

before and expect it to produce its full power output the next morning when you go to fly. If you charge your flight

battery the night before, top off the charge right before you fly.

●

Although the cheater hole in the bottom of the fuselage provides the EDF fan unit with most of the necessary airflow

to operate properly, it is still a good idea to keep the intake duct in front of the cheater hole as clean as possible. This

can easily be done by simply counter-sinking all of the wiring into the side of the duct so the intake duct stays smooth.

The battery tray does protrude into the bottom of the duct but this is okay. The battery tray is shaped to be as

streamlined as possible and at the same time provide airflow over the flight battery to keep it cool.

●

Do not close off the cheater hole in the bottom of the fuselage or performance of the EDF fan unit will be drastically

reduced and the airplane will not fly.

●

There is a long distance between the motor and the radio tray where the ESC will be installed; therefore, it's imperative

that you use high-quality silicon wire (no less than 14 gauge) to connect the motor to the ESC. Using high-quality

14 gauge wire will prevent current loss which will result in loss of power. We also strongly suggest cutting off the motor

connectors from your ESC and directly soldering the motor wires to the motor wires on your ESC.

●

As a second note to the above about current loss, it's also imperative that you use high-quality connectors to

connect the flight battery to the ESC. Do not use the Tamiya connectors that are likely installed on your flight battery

and ESC. We suggest using high-quality connectors, such as Dean's Ultra-Plugs.

●

Under no circumstances should you use slip-on connectors to connect the motor wires to the back of the motor. The

motor wires should be soldered onto the motor along with the noise-suppression capacitors.

●

If you decide to make your own flight packs from individual cells, you should use high-current NiCD or NiMH cells.

The cells should be able to handle current draw up to about 15 - 18 amps. When assembling the packs, it is of the

utmost importance to use high-quality battery bars to connect the cells and 14 gauge wiring for the battery plug wires.

We also suggest testing your flight battery with a voltage meter to make sure no cells have been damaged during the

soldering process.

●

Unlike propeller-driven airplanes that produce a lot of thrust right when you throttle up, ducted fans take a few

seconds to "spool up" and produce full thrust. Keep this in mind before hand-launching the airplane and while flying

the airplane. There will be a lag-time between the time the motor reaches full power and the EDF fan unit produces full

thrust. When hand-launching the airplane, you don't need to throw it too hard, but throw it firmly. You don't want to

launch it with a light toss like you would a slowflyer.

Visit our website at http://watt-age.globalhobby.com or for Customer Service at http://globalservices.globalhobby.com

Here's a List of What We Used to Finish Our MiG-15 EDF:

IMPORTANT The part numbers listed for the Hitec receiver, Cirrus servos, Cirrus Y-Harness and Hitec servo extension are

compatible with Hitec and JR (receiver is compatible with Hitec only) radio control systems. These items are also available with

connectors that are compatible with Futaba and Airtronics radio control systems. (Micro 555 receiver is also available for Airtronics,

Futaba and JR radio systems.) The Wattage IC-30A ESC is compatible with Futaba, JR, Hitec and Airtronics Z.

When you purchase the Hitec Micro 555 receiver, you must also purchase a Hitec brand crystal compatible with the receiver. The

crystal must also be on the same frequency as your transmitter. Note that the Micro 555 receiver uses a dual conversion FM

Hitec crystal.

QTY. 1 759118 Hitec Micro 555 5Ch. Receiver

Hitec Dual Conversion FM RX Crystal

QTY. 3 444052 Cirrus CS-10 Super-Micro Servos

QTY. 1 444728 Cirrus Y-Harness

QTY. 1 128486 Wattage IC-30A Micro ESC

QTY. 1 128552 Wattage 10 Cell 1100Mah 2/3A NiMH Flight Battery

QTY. 1 130108 Wattage PF-12 AC/DC Park Flyer Charger

QTY. 1 131175 Wattage 14 Gauge Silicon Motor Wire

QTY. 1 625085 Deans Ultra-Plug Connector

3M 3/4" Wide Clear Plastic Tape - Available at Most Hardware Stores

OUR RECOMMENDATIONS, CONTINUED....

If you want to utilize the optional nose gear steering, you'll also need these items:

QTY. 1 444052 Cirrus CS-10 Super-Micro Servo

QTY. 1 759637 Hitec 6" Servo Extension

Note: If you're wondering why we've recommended

using 14 gauge silicon motor wire and a Dean's

Ultra-Plug connector, please read the special tips

we've provided on page # 5. These two items are just

as important as a good ESC and flight battery.

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy # 887560

❑ Pacer Z-42 Threadlocker # 339162

❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ .050 Hex Wrench

❑ Magnum Z-Bend Pliers # 237473

❑ Wire Cutters

❑ Needle Nose Pliers

❑ Adjustable Wrench

❑ Excel Modeling Knife # 692801

❑ Scissors

❑ Electric or Hand Drill

❑ Assorted Drill Bits

❑ Ruler

❑ Pencil

❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

❑ Paper Towels

❑ Rubbing Alcohol

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks # 864204

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups # 864205

❑ K&S 30 Watt Soldering Iron # 598120

❑ Solder

❑ Heat-Shrink Tubing (Assorted Sizes)

❑ Prather Prop Balancer # 520429 (Optional)

SECTION 2: TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

The tools and supplies listed below will be necessary to finish the assembly of your MiG-15 EDF. We suggest having these

items onhand before beginning assembly.

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an Email at service@globalhobby.net

We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for easier identification during assembly. Before you begin

assembly, group the parts as we list them below. This will ensure that you have all of the parts before you begin assembly

and it will also help you become familiar with each part. If you find any parts missing or damaged, please contact us below:

AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES

❑ (1) Right & Left Fuselage Halves

❑ (1) Right & Left Wing Panels

❑ (1) Right & Left Horizontal Stabilizer Panels

❑ (1) Vertical Stabilizer

SECTION 3: KIT CONTENTS

MISCELLANEOUS FUSELAGE & WING PARTS

❑ (2) Fiberglass Wing Joiner Plates

❑ (2) Prepainted Canopy Mounting Board

❑ (1) Prepainted Servo Mounting Board (2 Parts)

❑ (2) M2 x 5 Wood Screws

❑ (1) Battery Tie-Down Strap

❑ (1) M3 x 8 Wood Screw

❑ (2) Brass Pins

❑ (1) Double-Sided Foam Tape

❑ (1) Decal Set

DUCTED FAN ASSEMBLY

❑ (1) 380 Modified Motor

❑ (1) Ducted Fan Shroud

❑ (1) Impeller Fan

❑ (1) Threaded Shaft Adapter w/Set Screw

❑ (1) Impeller Nut

❑ (2) M2 x 4 Machine Screws

❑ (3) Noise-Suppression Capacitors

MISCELLANEOUS STABILIZER PARTS

❑ (1) Prebent Elevator Joiner Wire

❑ (2) Nylon Bushings

❑ (1) Servo Extension Cord

❑ (1) Prepainted Tape Strip

❑ (1) Prepainted Servo Mounting Board

OPTIONAL LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLIES

❑ (3) Lightweight Wheels

❑ (2) Main Gear Wire Struts

❑ (1) Nose Gear Wire Strut

❑ (2) Nylon Main Gear Mounting Plates

❑ (1) Plywood Nose Gear Mounting Plate

❑ (1) Nose Gear Bushing Assembly

❑ (1) Nose Gear Steering Arm Assembly w/Set Screw

❑ (4) Wheel Collars w/Set Screws

❑ (4) M3 x 8 Wood Screws

❑ (4) M2 x 5 Wood Screws

Global Services

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley CA 92708

Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236 Email: service@globalhobby.net

On the Web

http://globalservices.globalhobby.com

PLASTIC PARTS

❑ (1) Clear Canopy

❑ (1) Nose Cone

❑ (1) Battery Tray

❑ (1) Battery Cover

❑ (1) Radio Tray

Note: Steering pushrod is made from scrap control

system pushrod wire.

CONTROL SYSTEM ASSEMBLIES

❑ (3) M1.5 x 150 Threaded Wires

❑ (3) Nylon Clevises

❑ (3) Nylon Control Horns

❑ (3) Nylon Control Horn Backplates

WARNING The MiG-15 EDF is constructed of foam. It is very important that you use no solvents, Cyanoacrylate (C/A) glue, or paint

that can damage foam. If any of these chemicals comes in contact with the foam parts, the parts will be destroyed and will not be

covered under warranty. Use only epoxy where glue is required. If you decide to add painted details to the airplane, use acrylic-

based paints and always test the paint on a scrap piece first.

We stock a complete line of replacement parts for your Wattage MiG-15 EDF. Please refer to page # 38 for more details.

Visit our website at http://watt-age.globalhobby.com or for Customer Service at http://globalservices.globalhobby.com

❑ Pacer Z-42 Threadlocker

❑ .050 Hex Wrench

❑ Wire Cutters

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) 380 Modified Motor

❑ (1) Ducted Fan Shroud

❑ (1) Impeller Fan

❑ (1) Threaded Shaft Adapter w/Set Screw

SECTION 4: MOTOR & EDF FAN UNIT ASSEMBLY

❑ (1) Impeller Nut

❑ (2) M2 x 4 Machine Screws

❑ (3) Noise-Suppression Capacitors

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

❑ K&S 30 Watt Soldering Iron

❑ Solder

Step 1: Installing the Capacitors & Motor Wires

❑ Solder two 18" long 14 gauge hi-temp silicon motor wires

(not included) to the positive and negative terminals on the

back of the motor. Under no circumstances should you

attach the motor wires with slide-on connectors. Use solder!

☞

The terminal with the red dot next to it is the positive

terminal.

IMPORTANT The motor wires must be 18" long to reach

the cockpit area and still have some extra left to work with.

❑ Carefully solder the three noise-suppression capacitors

to the positive and negative terminals on the back of the

motor. Two capacitors are soldered between the terminals

and the motor can and one capacitor is soldered between

the two terminals.

☞

So the solder will stick to the motor can, you should

roughen the side of the can with 220 grit sandpaper first.

Step 2: Installing the Motor & Impeller Assembly

IMPORTANT When installing the threaded shaft adapter in

the next procedure, we strongly suggest applying threadlocker

to the set screw. This will prevent the screw from loosening

during flight.

❑ Slide the threaded shaft adapter onto the motor shaft and

tighten the set screw using a .050 hex wrench. There should

be about a 1/16" gap between the shaft adapter and the motor.

☞

Make sure that the back of the shaft adapter does not

rub against the front of the motor.

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an Email at service@globalhobby.net

❑ Slide the motor into the fan shroud and line up the holes

in the front of the motor with the matching holes in the shroud.

❑ Install and tighten the two M2 x 4 machine screws to

secure the motor into place.

☞

We suggest applying threadlocker to the screws before

installing them. This will prevent them from loosening during

flight.

❑ Slide the impeller onto the shaft adapter, making sure

that the small sticker on the impeller hub is toward the front

of the shroud (Remove the sticker after installation).

❑ Thread the impeller nut into place and tighten it firmly

using an adjustable wrench.

☞

Very carefully push a small piece of wire between the

impeller blades and into the motor (not far in) to prevent the

motor from turning while tightening the impeller nut.

Important Tip: Before the impeller is installed in the next procedure, we recommend that you check the impeller's

balance. Usually our impellers will not need balancing, but it's a good idea to check. We suggest using a propeller

balancer to do this. If the impeller is out of balance, apply a small piece of electrical tape to the back side of the "light

blade" and re-test until you are satisfied that the impeller is balanced. We do not suggest sanding the blades to

balance the impeller because of the chance of blade distortion and/or damage.

❑ Carefully examine the fan shroud for any mold flashing. If any is present, carefully cut it away using a modeling knife.

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy

❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ Scissors

❑ Ruler

❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Right & Left Fuselage Halves

❑ (1) Radio Tray

SECTION 5: FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY

❑ (1) Servo Extension Cord

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Paper Towels

❑ Rubbing Alcohol

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

Step 1: Test-Fitting the EDF Fan Unit Assembly

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, lightly sand the gluing surfaces on each fuselage half smooth and

straight. If any paint is oversprayed onto the gluing surfaces, be sure to sand it away for a stronger glue joint.

Visit our website at http://watt-age.globalhobby.com or for Customer Service at http://globalservices.globalhobby.com

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut a groove in the foam

in the right fuselage half to extend the small premolded groove

up to the cockpit area. Also, extend the groove backward and

up through the top of the fuselage, 6-1/8" in front of the back

of the fuselage.

☞

The motor wires and elevator servo extension will lay in

this groove, keeping them out of the intake and exhaust ducts.

❑ Test-fit the EDF fan unit assembly into the right fuselage

half. The molded lip at the front of the fan shroud fits into the

molded groove in the fuselage half and the motor wires should

be pulled forward and laid in the groove, as shown.

IMPORTANT The molded groove in the fuselage half is wider

than the flange on the EDF fan unit. Make sure that the front

of the flange is pushed against the front of the groove.

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut a groove in the

inside of the right fuselage half, 2-1/2" behind the front of the

cockpit cutout, from the base of the cockpit area to the top of

the battery area in the bottom of the fuselage. The groove

should be deep enough for the battery wires you plan on

using to lay flush with the surface of the intake duct.

☞

The wires from your ESC to your flight battery will lay in

this groove, keeping them out of the intake duct.

❑ Test-fit the fuselage halves together with the EDF fan unit

assembly in place. They should fit together with few or no

gaps between the two, and the outside edges of each half

should line up evenly.

☞

If the fuselage halves don't fit together properly, carefully

remove any irregularities in the foam using 220 grit sandpaper

with a sanding block.

Step 2: Joining the Fuselage Halves

❑ Lay the servo extension wire into the molded groove, next to the motor wires and around the fan shroud, making sure

that the female plug comes out the top of the groove you cut in the back of the fuselage half. When properly positioned,

about 1" of the extension (including the female plug) should be above the top of the fuselage half.

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an Email at service@globalhobby.net

Special Tip: Hold the fuselage halves firmly together around the fan assembly. While holding the fuselage halves

together, carefully spin the impeller using your finger. The impeller should spin freely and not touch the sides of the

shroud. If the impeller does touch the sides of the shroud, the shroud may be distorted. If this is the case release

some pressure on the fuselage halves and recheck the impeller.

IMPORTANT NOTICE! Before gluing the fuselage sides together in the next procedure, please realize that the EDF

fan unit assembly must be tack glued into place so it does turn inside the fuselage. Only tack glue the bottom of the

assembly to the fuselage halves so it can be easily removed in the future if it needs to be. If you glue the EDF fan unit

assembly into place from the top (or use a lot of glue), it may be impossible to remove it if you ever need to!

●

Even though the motor has been test-run and broken-in at the factory, we suggest testing the motor once more before

gluing the fuselage halves together. This will ensure that your wiring and soldering has been completed properly. Once

the EDF fan unit assembly is installed, it cannot be removed without cutting a hatch in the bottom of the fuselage.

●

Don't forget to make sure you've installed the elevator servo extension into the groove in the right fuselage half

before you glue the two halves together. Once they're glued together, you won't be able to install the extension.

❑ Mix a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy and apply a thin layer to the gluing surfaces on both fuselage halves. Apply

a couple of dabs to the bottom of the fan shroud, too.

❑ Fit the fuselage halves and EDF fan unit assembly back together and realign them. Remove any excess epoxy using

a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the fuselage halves together until the epoxy sets up.

Special Tip: We used about eight large, wide rubber bands to hold the fuselage halves together. If put over the

fuselage sides carefully, they won't damage the foam. We don't suggest using pieces of masking tape to hold the

fuselage side together because, when removed, the tape will pull away the paint.

❑ After the epoxy has fully cured, apply a piece of clear tape over the front and back of the groove to hold the wires in

place. Doing this will keep the wires from drooping into the intake duct.

Special Tip: We actually used one long strip of clear tape to completely seal the groove, but it's difficult and takes

some time due to the limited amount of space inside the intake duct. It isn't absolutely necessary, either. If you want

a completely sealed intake duct, though, give it a try.

Step 3: Installing the Radio Tray

❑ Using a pair of scissors, cut away the excess plastic from around the edge of the radio tray, making sure to leave a 1/8"

wide lip to use as a mounting surface.

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, sand the edges of the radio tray smooth and even.

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut a small hole in the

back of the radio tray just large enough to allow the motor

wires and the elevator servo extension lead to pass through.

☞

The back of the radio tray is pointed, not flat.

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❑ Slide the motor wires and the servo extension lead through

the hole and test-fit the radio tray into the fuselage. The tray

should fit tightly and the lip around the edge of the tray should

be pushed down firmly against the top of the fuselage.

☞

You may need to sand the inside edges of the fuselage

lightly, using 220 grit sandpaper, so that the radio tray will

fit properly.

Special Tip: Because it's a tight fit, it's not necessary to glue the radio tray into place. This will allow it to be removed

easily if you ever need to. If your radio tray does not fit tightly, though, we suggest tack gluing it into place using a couple

of small dabs of 5 minute epoxy.

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy

❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ Ruler

❑ Pencil

❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Right & Left Wing Panels

SECTION 6: WING PANEL INSTALLATION

❑ (2) Fiberglass Wing Joiner Plates

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Paper Towels

❑ Rubbing Alcohol

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

Step 1: Cutting Out the Ailerons

❑ Using a modeling knife and a ruler, carefully cut 1/16" off

of the inboard section of the aileron on one wing panel.

☞

Cutting the inboard section of the aileron shorter will

prevent the aileron from hitting the side of the fuselage when

the wing panel is glued into place.

❑ Carefully flex the aileron up and down several times to free up the hinge line.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to shorten the aileron on the second wing panel.

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, lightly sand the root end of each wing panel to remove any paint

overspray, being careful not to distort the angle.

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❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, measure back 1-3/8" from the leading edge of one wing panel (at the root) and draw a mark

on the bottom of the wing at this location.

☞

This mark shows the distance the servo's output shaft should be located behind the leading edge of the wing.

❑ Place your servo onto the wing and align it. The servo

output shaft should be even with the mark you drew and the

side of the servo should be even with the wing root.

☞

The servo output shaft should be toward the leading edge

of the wing, as shown.

❑ While holding the servo in place, trace around the base

of it using a pencil.

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut a hole in the wing to

accommodate your servo. Don't cut the hole larger than the

outline. The servo needs to fit firmly in the hole.

IMPORTANT Remove the foam down only to the base of

the top wing skin, being careful not to accidentally cut through

the top of the wing.

Step 2: Cutting Out the Aileron Servo Mounting Holes

Step 3: Installing the Fiberglass Wing Joiner Plates

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to cut out the aileron servo mounting hole in the second wing panel. Again, make

sure to cut the hole in the bottom of the wing panel and be careful not to cut through the top of the wing.

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, carefully sand away the paint from the wing mounting platform on

each side of the fuselage, making sure not to distort the angle.

☞

For the strongest joint possible, it's important to remove any paint from where epoxy will be used.

❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, measure back 3-1/8" from the

front edge of one wing mounting platform and draw a mark.

❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, measure back 1-3/8" from the

first mark you drew and draw a second mark, as shown.

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❑ Using a modeling knife, very carefully cut a thin slot

through the wing mounting platform, between the two marks

you drew, being careful to make the cut along the bottom edge

of the wing mounting platform.

IMPORTANT Be careful to make the cut straight into the

wing mounting platform. This will ensure that the fiberglass

wing joiner plate is perpendicular to the wing mounting

platform when it's glued into place.

❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, measure in 2-3/16" from the

outside edge of one fiberglass wing joiner plate and draw a

mark at that location on each side of the plate, as shown.

☞

The outside edge of the fiberglass wing joiner plate is the

square edge.

❑ Push the wing joiner plate into the slot you cut in the wing

mounting platform and align it. When aligned properly the

plate should be centered between the two marks you drew on

the wing mounting platform and it should be pushed into the

fuselage up to the two marks you drew on it.

IMPORTANT So that the wing joiner plate is square, make

sure both marks you drew on it are even with the outer edge

of the wing mounting platform. The plate should also be

perpendicular to the wing mounting platform when looking from

the front of the fuselage.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, remove the wing joiner plate and lightly sand the gluing surfaces to roughen the

fiberglass. This will make the epoxy stick to the fiberglass much better.

❑ Glue the wing joiner plate into place using a thin layer of 5 minute epoxy. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper

towel and rubbing alcohol and allow the epoxy to set up before proceeding. After the epoxy sets up, repeat the previous

procedures to glue the second fiberglass wing joiner plate into the other side of the fuselage.

❑ Test-fit one wing panel to the fuselage. To line up the

wing panel properly, the leading edge of the wing should be

even with the front of the molded wing mounting platform and

the top and bottom contour of the wing should be even with

the contour of the wing mounting platform. The fiberglass

wing joiner should also be flush against the bottom of the wing.

☞

The dihedral angle is molded into the wing mounting

platform. To ensure the proper dihedral angle make sure that

the wing panel is pushed firmly against the mounting platform.

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❑ While holding the wing panel aligned, turn the assembly

over and carefully trace around the edges of the fiberglass

wing joiner plate using a pencil.

❑ Remove the wing panel and lightly sand the surface of the wing inside the outline you drew to remove the paint. Also

lightly sand the gluing surface of the fiberglass wing joiner plate.

❑ Mix a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy and apply a thin layer to the root end of the wing panel, the wing mounting

platform, and to the gluing surface of the fiberglass wing joiner plate, making sure that you cover all of the gluing surfaces.

WARNING Do not apply epoxy to the end of the aileron. You don't want to glue the aileron to the fuselage!

❑ Fit the wing panel back into place and realign it. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol,

and hold the wing panel and fiberglass wing joiner plate firmly in place until the epoxy sets up.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to install the second wing panel.

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy

❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ Ruler

❑ Pencil

❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Right & Left Horizontal Stabilizer Panels

❑ (1) Vertical Stabilizer

SECTION 7: HORIZONTAL & VERTICAL STABILIZER INSTALLATION

❑ (1) Prebent Elevator Joiner Wire

❑ (2) Nylon Bushings

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Paper Towels

❑ Rubbing Alcohol

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

Step 1: Installing the Elevator Joiner Wire

❑ Working with one horizontal stabilizer panel for now, turn

the panel upside down so the precut hinge line is facing up

toward you. This is the bottom of the stabilizer panel.

❑ Using a modeling knife and a ruler, cut out the inboard

end of the elevator, making sure to make the cut parallel to

the inside edge of the stabilizer.

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❑ Using a ruler and a modeling knife, make a second cut

through the elevator 1/8" out from the first cut, then carefully

remove this section. You will be left with a 1/8" gap between

the elevator and stabilizer, as shown.

IMPORTANT Do not cut in toward the root section of the

stabilizer. Cut out toward the tip of the elevator.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to the second horizontal stabilizer panel.

❑ Turn the two stabilizer panels right side up and push them together, making sure the trailing edges are even.

❑ Using a modeling knife and a ruler, carefully cut a shallow

horizontal groove across the top of the stabilizer panels, just

wide enough for the elevator joiner wire to lay in, as shown.

The groove should be even with the elevator hinge lines and

not be too deep. Only cut the groove about halfway down

through the stabilizers.

IMPORTANT Don't cut the groove too deep. You don't'

want to cut completely through the stabilizer panels.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut a 1/2" deep slot in the root

end of one elevator, then glue one nylon bushing into the slot

using a thin layer of 5 minute epoxy. The bushing should be

centered between the top and bottom of the elevator and the

front of the bushing should be 1/8" behind the hinge line.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to install the second nylon

bushing into the root end of the other elevator and allow the

epoxy to fully cure before proceeding.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut off the center stabilizer tab

on each stabilizer panel.

☞

You must cut these pieces off so that the elevator joiner

wire can be installed. Do not discard the two pieces. They

will be glued back into place after gluing the stabilizer

panels together.

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❑ We suggest applying a strip of clear plastic tape over

the top of each elevator hinge line. This will strengthen the

elevator hinge lines, especially over time.

❑ Using a modeling knife, trim the loose ends of the plastic

tape even with the ends of the stabilizer panels.

❑ To install the prebent elevator joiner wire, first deflect one

elevator up at a 90º angle, then slide one end of the elevator

joiner wire through the front of the nylon bushing, as shown.

IMPORTANT If you didn't reinforce the elevator hinge line

like we suggested in the previous procedure, the hinge line

will probably break when you bend it up at 90 degrees.

❑ Repeat the same procedure to install the elevator/stabilizer

panel over the opposite end of the elevator joiner wire.

Step 2: Joining the Stabilizer Panels

❑ Glue the two stabilizer panels together using a generous

amount of 5 minute epoxy. Remove any excess epoxy

before it sets up using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol,

and hold the stabilizer panels firmly in place and flat until the

epoxy sets up.

IMPORTANT Make sure that you don't get any epoxy on

the elevator joiner wire. It's also important that the stabilizer

panels be perfectly flat when you join them.

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❑ After the epoxy fully cures, carefully glue back into place

the two stabilizer pieces that you cut off previously. Again,

make sure not to get any epoxy on the elevator joiner wire

and make sure that the two pieces are flat when you glue

them into place.

IMPORTANT When gluing the two pieces back into place,

make sure they are centered and don't touch the nylon bushings.

❑ After the epoxy fully cures, pivot the elevator halves up and down several times to test the operation of the joiner

assembly. The elevator halves should pivot smoothly and the nylon bushings should not rub against the stabilizer.

Step 3: Installing the Horizontal Stabilizer Assembly

❑ Using a modeling knife and a ruler, very carefully cut out

the stabilizer mounting slot and the elevator servo mounting

hole in the vertical stabilizer, using the molded scribe lines as

your guide.

IMPORTANT Work slowly, making several passes with your

knife on each side of the stabilizer. This will prevent you from

cutting the slot crooked or at an angle.

❑ Carefully slide the stabilizer assembly into the mounting

slot, being careful not break off the delicate piece behind the

elevator joiner wire.

❑ To align the stabilizer properly, the front and rear of the

stabilizer should be centered within the mounting slot and, when

viewed from the front, the stabilizer should be perpendicular

to the vertical stabilizer.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, use a pencil to lightly

draw a line on each side of the stabilizer (top and bottom)

where it meets the vertical stabilizer.

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❑ Remove the horizontal stabilizer and lightly sand the area between the lines you drew to remove as much paint from

the area as possible.

❑ Mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy and apply a generous amount between the lines you drew on the top and

bottom of the stabilizer only. Don't apply any epoxy into the mounting slot in the vertical stabilizer.

Special Tip: Because the stabilizer has to slide into place through the mounting slot, apply epoxy only to the top and

bottom of the stabilizer. This will prevent the epoxy from spreading over the entire length of one half of the stabilizer

when you slide it into place.

❑ Slide the horizontal stabilizer back into place and realign it. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and

rubbing alcohol, and hold the stabilizer in place until the epoxy sets up.

Step 4: Installing the Vertical Stabilizer Assembly

❑ Using a ruler and a modeling knife, carefully cut a shallow

groove in the right side of the vertical stabilizer, from the

front corner of the servo mounting hole to the bottom of the

stabilizer. Cut the groove parallel to the leading edge so that

the bottom of the groove will line up with the servo extension

in the fuselage when the stabilizer assembly is glued into place.

☞

Notice that the bottom of the groove is cut wider to ac-

commodate the plastic servo connectors.

❑ Test-fit the vertical stabilizer assembly to the fuselage.

To be aligned properly, the trailing edge of the vertical stabilizer

should be even with the back edge of the fuselage and the

base of the vertical stabilizer should be centered over the

centerline of the fuselage. There should also be no gaps

between the base of the vertical stabilizer and the fuselage.

IMPORTANT The vertical stabilizer should be perpendicular

to the fuselage when looking from the front. The top of the

vertical stabilizer should not be angled to the left or right.

❑ When satisfied with the fit, remove the vertical stabilizer and lightly sand the gluing surfaces to remove the paint.

❑ Mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy and apply a generous layer to only the base of the vertical stabilizer, making

sure to cover the entire gluing surface.

❑ Set the vertical stabilizer assembly back into place and realign it. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and

rubbing alcohol, and hold the stabilizer assembly firmly in place until the epoxy sets up.

Special Tip: You may have to enlarge the groove in the base of the vertical stabilizer so that the servo extension

coming out the top of the fuselage does not prevent the stabilizer from being lined up correctly. Also, double-check

that there is enough of the servo extension beyond the top of the fuselage to plug into your elevator servo lead.

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❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Magnum Z-Bend Pliers

❑ Wire Cutters

❑ Needle Nose Pliers

❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ Scissors

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Prepainted Tape Strip

❑ (1) Prepainted Servo Mounting Board

❑ (1) Prepainted Servo Mounting Board - 2 Parts

❑ (3) M1.5 x 150 Threaded Wires

SECTION 8: CONTROL SYSTEMS INSTALLATION

❑ (3) Nylon Clevises

❑ (3) Nylon Control Horns

❑ (3) Nylon Control Horn Backplates

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Electric or Hand Drill

❑ 1/16" Drill Bit

❑ Ruler

❑ Pencil

❑ Ernst Airplane Stand

Step 1: Installing the Aileron Servos

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut a shallow groove (1/8" wide

and 1/8" deep) in one side of the fuselage, 1-1/8" behind the

leading edge of the wing (at the glue joint), from the top of the

wing to the middle of the cockpit area.

❑ Repeat this procedure to cut an identical groove in the

other side of the fuselage.

❑ Remove the protective backing from one piece of servo

mounting board and apply the piece of mounting board to the

bottom of the wing, centering it around the aileron servo

mounting hole you cut previously.

☞

Notice that we cut the front corner of the mounting board

off so it doesn't overlap onto the leading edge.

❑ Very carefully use the tip of your modeling knife to cut a small diameter tunnel from within the servo mounting hole (at

the front, inside edge) to the base of the groove you cut in the side of the fuselage.

☞

Work slowly, taking care not to cut a hole in the top of the wing. A little patience here will result in a very clean

looking installation.

Special Tip: To make the next procedure easier, and to prevent us from having to cut a larger hole, we removed the

plastic plug from the aileron servo wire. If you do this, we strongly suggest taking note of the positions of the individual

wires so that you can reinstall the plug properly.

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WattAge MiG-15 EDF Instructions For Final Assembly

Brand: WattAge

Model: MiG-15 EDF

Category: Toys & accessories

Type: Instructions For Final Assembly

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WattAge MiG-15 EDF Instructions For Final Assembly

WattAge MiG-15 EDF Instructions For Final Assembly

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