3. SOLDERING: If you are inexperienced, ask any electronics
technician to show you how it's done, then do practice
soldering/de-soldering on a junked circuit board before working
on your kit. Here's what is important:
Keep the soldering iron tip CLEAN, using a damp sponge
Let the heated connection itself melt the solder, not the iron tip
Use a thin diameter of rosin-core solder
Use VERY good lighting; NEVER be embarrassed to use a
magnifier!
4. DE-SOLDERING is the opposite of soldering and is a more
tedious procedure. Again, a repair technician can show you the
best technique. Take care not to damage circuit board pads or
traces -save yourself from desoldering agony by installing the
right part the right way the first time!
5. Except for P1 , P2 and J5 mounted on the bottom ("solder
side") of the board, ALL Main Board parts are inserted into the
top silkscreened side, with leads passing through the holes to the
bottom solder side. (This advice may seem insulting, but some
folks DO carefully mount and solder all parts on the copper side
of the board and wonder why the kit won't work!)
6. Insert all parts as close to the board surface as possible before
soldering and trimming. Excess wire length above the board can
cause unwanted oscillations.
7. Reminder about your Kit Manual: NEVER "Solder first and ask
questions later" ! The Success of your project depends on your
willingness to study our published directions attentively. Check
your kit package for any update sheet(s) to supplement this
manual. Use the double check blocks to review your work
(ideally with someone else) before connecting voltage.
8. TOOLS: Page 14 lists the "minimum" tools needed for this
particular project. However, you'll appreciate owning a more
varied collection of small tools for electronics work: the selection
at Radio Shack'" is good, with the lower-priced versions being
quite sufficient. If buying your first voltmeter ("multitester"), you
may find the "analog" meter type easier to use at first than the
digital type.
1254 –Getting Started -19
You will build the Display Board first and then occasionally plug it into
the Main Board for further testing. To get a good fit of the LED's and 3-
digit displays, you'll be handling the front panel and display lens -be
VERY careful not to touch these with your soldering iron!
After finishing PHASE 2.0 (Logic and DC Power Input sections), the
powered-up Display Board plugged to the Main Board (via P1, P2) can
now simulate all receiver functions or features described in the Operating
Instructions in the Reference section, though not executing them.
Finishing PHASE 3.0 requires VCO coil adjustments done with a simple
voltmeter measurement at "VCO TP." Individual board drawings are
provided as a help for correct assembly of the two shielded VCO sections.
Completing Phase 4.0 lets you verify that the audio amplifier, product
detector and Second IF amplifier work properly. This Phase also includes
the AGC and uses the largest number of parts of any of the assembly
sections.
Phase 5.0: Finishing this section results in a non-tuneable receiver with
full sensitivity capable of receiving a 45 MHz test signal, with the Clarifier
control operational. Mixing the 45 MHz 1st output with the 44.545 2nd LO
produces the 455 kHz signal detected and amplified in the Phase 4.0
circuitry. The receiver is designed to generate its own 45 MHz test signal.
Phases 6.0 and 7:0: (RF Input and First Mixer sections, Final
Assembly): You're ALMOST ready to start using your receiver, so
don't rush these building phases! This work brings in the antenna
signals through the shielded Bandpass Filter circuitry to the First Mixer
(also shielded), where received signals are mixed with the tuneable 45-75
MHz LO signal from the VCO's. This mixing results in a 45 MHz 1st IF
signal fed to the input of the circuitry you built in Phase 5.0. Very simple
alignment is done in Phase 7,0 with the receiver mostly assembled. The
result is a frequency-synthesized dual-conversion receiver rivaling radio
sets costing much more.
►
See following foldout page for details on the major
mechanical parts used to finish your receiver in Phase 7.0.
1254 –Getting Started –20
Let the heated connection itself melt the solder, NOT the iron tip!
H. Model 1254 SWL Receiver