Pack 9
Advanced technology3cc nitro engine All-wheel drive
RADIO-CONTROLLED CAR WITH NITRO ENGINE
Lamborghini
Build and
Drive the
™
133
133
CONTENTS
™
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NOT SUITABLE FOR CHILDREN UNDER THE AGE OF 14.
THIS PRODUCT IS NOT A TOY AND IS NOT DESIGNED
FOR USE IN PLAY. ITEMS MAY VARY FROM THOSE
SHOWN. THERE MAY BE COLOUR VARIATIONS
OWING TO THE MATERIALS USED.
Assembly Guide
All rights reserved © 2016
Published in the UK by De Agostini UK Ltd,
Battersea Studios 2, 82 Silverthorne Road,
London SW8 3HE
Published in the USA by De Agostini Publishing USA Inc.,
915 Broadway, Suite 609, New York, NY 10010
English adaptation by Continuo Creative, 39-41 North Road,
London N7 9DP
Printed in the EU.
The trademarks, copyrights and design rights in and associated with
Lamborghini, Lamborghini with Bull and Shield Device are
used under licence from Automobili Lamborghini S.p.A., Italy.
Picture credits:
Cover © Automobili Lamborghini S.p.A.; 134-146 Milanoedit srl.
™
RADIO-CONTROLLED CAR WITH NITRO ENGINE
Lamborghini
Build and
Drive the
The step-by-step guide to building your Lamborghini Huracán
Stage 48: Rear hub carrier
Stage 49: Glow plug and head shims
Stage 50: Rear driveshaft and stub axle
Stage 51: Servo and servo horn
Stage 52: Bodyshell
Stage 53: Cylinder head and head covers
Rear hub carrier
Parts supplied:
A Outer ball bearing
B Rear hub carrier
C Inner ball bearing
D Threaded plugs
E Ball-headed screws
ASSEMBLY GUIDE – STAGE 48
134
AC
D
D
B
E
134
1
2
1 In addition to the parts received with this stage,
you will need a 5mm Allen key.
2 Insert the two ball-headed screws into the two
lower holes of the hub carrier.
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With this stage, you have received the
components that make up the second of
the two rear hub carriers. These parts
are the same as those you received with
Stage 26. If you have already started to
assemble the rear suspension, you will
have fitted the previously supplied rear
hub carrier to the right-hand side, so fit
this hub carrier to the other side.
3 4
5 6
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3 The two threaded plugs each have
a flat end and a slightly concave end.
4 Insert the Allen key into the flat
end of one of the plugs, as shown.
5 Screw the plug into one of the two
lower holes of the hub carrier, from
the opposite side to the ball-headed
screw, then repeat the process to
insert the second plug into the other
lower hole. Test that the ball-headed
screws can still move freely, and
loosen the plugs slightly if they can’t.
6 Place the hub carrier as shown,
and position the small bearing to the
left of it and the larger bearing to
the right.
7 Insert the two bearings into
the corresponding holes in the
hub carrier.
8 This is how the rear hub carrier
should now appear. Store it away in
a labelled plastic bag until it is
needed again.
ASSEMBLY GUIDE – STAGE 48
135
Glow plug and head shims
C
BB
A
D
E
C
The eight 3 x 8mm screws supplied with this stage will secure the two servos to the servo
mount. The other screws and self-locking nuts that were supplied will be used in future
assembly stages. The other parts are the glow plug, with its copper washer, and the two shims,
which are each just 0.14mm thick and will be fitted under the cylinder head. There is no
assembly work to do in this stage, which will explain the functions of the glow plug and shims,
so store all the parts safely until they are needed later on.
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ASSEMBLY GUIDE – STAGE 49
Parts supplied:
A Glow plug
B 2.5 x 6mm screws
C Head shims
D Self-locking nuts
E 3 x 8mm screws
Left: The throttle/brake servo is
fixed to the servo mount with
four of the eight 3 x 8mm screws
supplied with this stage, two of
which are circled here.
The glow plug
The glow plug supplied with this stage will be
screwed into the hole in the top of the cylinder
head, hermetically sealing the combustion
chamber of your engine. Before the plug is
fitted, it will be possible to turn the crankshaft
with comparatively little effort, using the
recoil starter, but it is much harder to turn it
when the plug is screwed in, because the air
inside the cylinder becomes compressed by
the rising piston.
The glow plug has the function of triggering
the process of combustion inside the cylinder
by using a thin, coiled platinum wire as its
heating element. Glow plugs are sturdy and
last a long time, but they are still among the
ASSEMBLY GUIDE – STAGE 49
137137
components that will suffer a certain amount
of wear and tear in an RC car.
To make the glow plug coil heat up initially, it
must be supplied with electricity from a glow
starter, but once the engine is running, the coil
will stay hot and the heater current will no
longer be needed. The temperature of the
element depends essentially on its thickness
and length, so glow plugs can be made to suit
the different operating requirements of
various designs of engine.
The shims
The cylinder in your Huracán’s engine
contains an inner lining, in which the piston is
housed. In order to compress the fuel-air
mixture in the combustion chamber formed by
the piston liner and the cylinder head, the
piston must fit within the cylinder as perfectly
as possible. As the engine runs, the piston and
cylinder work together in such a way that
when the piston moves up, it forms a
hermetical seal with the cylinder liner and
head at top dead centre, and when the
piston is at the bottom of the cylinder,
the extra space above it allows lubricant
into the cylinder to keep the parts
working smoothly. To make the most of
the energy released during combustion,
the distance between the top of the piston
and the cylinder head must be correct: too
much space, and there is a loss of power,
resulting in poor performance, while too
little space can impair the internal workings
of the engine and reduce its efficiency. By
using shims, you can adjust the size of this
space and optimise the engine’s efficiency.
The use of shims is linked to the type of fuel
mixture that you want to use. One of the most
widely used techniques for getting the
maximum performance from an engine is to
increase the proportion of nitromethane in the
fuel. The higher the percentage of
nitromethane, the greater the pressure
generated by the combustion of the fuel in the
cylinder. Experienced RC modellers
recommend using a 0.1 mm-thick shim for
approximately every 10 per cent of
nitromethane. So, with a 16 per cent mixture
(the most common in 1:10-scale models), you
should use one of the two 0.14mm shims
supplied with this stage.
Above: An RC car being
prepped for use. You can
see the glow starter
(arrowed) projecting from
the top of the engine.
Below: The cylinder and
liner (on the left) and
cylinder head (on the
right) with the glow plug’s
filament visible (arrowed).
Above: A shim positioned
on the cylinder head. Your
use of shims will depend
on the fuel mixture you
want to use.
Left: Here you can see
the glow plug (circled),
screwed into a hole in the
cylinder head, directly
above the cylinder itself.
2
1
Parts supplied:
A Rear driveshaft
B Stub axle
C Drive pin
D Hexagonal drive washer
E Flanged nut
The driveshaft, stub axle and other parts supplied with this stage are interchangeable with those received
in Stages 21 and 36. If you’ve been working through the assembly sequence, use this set of parts for the
left rear wheel, as you will have used the other sets for the right rear and left front wheels.
1 As well as the parts supplied with this stage, you
will need the left rear lower arm, supplied with
Stage 19, and the left rear hub carrier assembly
from Stage 48.
2 You will also need a 2.5mm Allen key and a
5.5mm cross wrench.
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Rear driveshaft
and stub axle
ASSEMBLY GUIDE – STAGE 50
B
A
C E
D
ASSEMBLY GUIDE – STAGE 50
3 4
56
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3 Insert the ends of the ball-headed
screws in the rear hub carrier into
the holes in the lower arm, and start
to screw them in.
4 Now slowly screw them into the
holes as far as they will go, working
on them alternately.
5 This is how the assembly should
now appear. Note that the ball-
headed screws do not go all the way
into the lower arm – some of the
thread is still exposed.
6 Insert the stub axle into the hub
carrier, and then insert the drive pin
into the hole in the axle.
7 Place the drive washer onto the
stub axle, fitting the recess over the
drive pin, and then tighten the
flanged nut onto the end of the axle.
8 Insert one end of the driveshaft
into the stub axle, and either use an
elastic band to hold it in place or
store the parts together in a labelled
plastic bag.
139139
B
A
Servo and servo horn
Resetting the servos
Before fitting the servos, you will need to reset
or ‘zero’ each one to its neutral position. This
is the resting position of the servo horn when
the servo has not received any commands
from the radio control transmitter.
To perform the reset, you will need the
transmitter, the servos and their horns, along
with the model with its RC receiver, switch and
battery pack. Start by plugging the cable from
one of the servos into its socket on the
receiver. Then centre both trim knobs on the
transmitter, as shown below left.
At this point, turn on the transmitter and
then move the position of the receiver switch
to ‘on’. Now the servo will move, even though
you’re not touching any of the transmitter
controls. The new position of the horn, with
the transmitter and receiver switched on but
no commands being sent from the transmitter,
is the neutral point. The reset procedure for
this servo is now complete, so turn off the
transmitter and receiver, and unplug the servo
cable from the receiver. Next, repeat the whole
process to zero the other servo, and then they
will both be ready to be fitted to your model.
139139 140
Parts supplied:
A Servo
B Servo horn
ASSEMBLY GUIDE – STAGE 51
The parts supplied with this stage are your model’s second servo and its horn. This servo is
the same as the one provided with Stage 43, and because these servos are the same, they
are interchangeable up until they are fitted, at which point one becomes the steering servo
and the other the throttle/brake servo. As you can’t fit the servos yet, this stage will explain
how to reset them before you fit them.
Below: During the reset
procedure, you should
turn the trim knobs to
their centre positions
before switching the
transmitter on.
1
2
1 As well as the bodyshell, you will need a large
pair of scissors, a smaller pair of curved scissors, a
reamer and some wet and dry paper.
2 Before you begin, locate the cutting lines around
the bodyshell, such as those indicated below, which
are at the rear. The bodyshell is covered in a
protective film, but do not remove it yet.
A
The component supplied with this stage is the racing bodyshell of your Huracán, which will
be completed by the addition of the front and rear bumpers received with Stages 1 and 2. In
this stage, you begin preparing the bodyshell so that it can be fitted to the model.
ASSEMBLY GUIDE – STAGE 52
141
Bodyshell
Parts supplied:
A Bodyshell
6
4 5
3
3 This is the cut
line around the left
front wheel arch.
There is a similar
line around the
right arch.
4 There are four
points on the
bodyshell that
need to be pierced.
The two circled
here are near
the front.
5 The other two
points that you will
need to pierce are
towards the rear of
the bodyshell, on
each side of the
engine bay.
6 Using large
scissors, cut away
the excess plastic
from around
the base of the
bodyshell,
as shown.
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ASSEMBLY GUIDE – STAGE 52
Air fi lter
10
89
77 Use the reamer
to begin opening
one of the four
holes, taking care
not to force it in
too hard. Make the
holes slightly
smaller than
their outlines.
8 After opening
each hole, turn the
bodyshell over and
gently ream the
hole from the
inside. This is not
to enlarge it, but to
smooth it and
remove any burrs
or roughness.
9 Here is one of
the opened and
smoothed holes,
left slightly smaller
than its outline.
10 Once you’ve
made the holes,
cut along the lines
identified in Steps
2 and 3. Use small
but sharp curved
scissors to ensure
that you can cut
along the lines
as neatly and
accurately
as possible.
ASSEMBLY GUIDE – STAGE 52
143
14
13
12
11
11 Using wet and
dry paper, carefully
sand away any
excess from the
cut edges of
the bodyshell.
12 Make sure that
you follow the lines
of the bodyshell,
and take care not
to apply too much
force to it.
13 This is how the
right front wheel
arch should look
after you’ve
finished it with wet
and dry paper. It
should have a
smoothly curved
edge, without
any burrs or
roughness.
14 Finish off
the rest of the
bodyshell in the
same way.
ASSEMBLY GUIDE – STAGE 52
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1
1
2
ASSEMBLY GUIDE – STAGE 53
Cylinder head and head covers
This stage’s parts are for your Huracán’s engine. The largest piece is the cylinder head, which
closes the top of the cylinder to complete the combustion chamber. The two smaller parts are
the head covers, which will be mounted on top of the head. They not only replicate the head
covers of the real car, but also dissipate the heat generated when the engine is running.
AA
Parts supplied:
A Head covers
B Cylinder head
C 2.5 x 12mm screws
1 You will need the cylinder head and head covers,
plus two of the eight 2.5 x 12mm screws supplied
with this stage and the glow plug from Stage 49.
2 You will also need a 2mm Allen key, either
straight or L-shaped, and an 8mm socket wrench.
B
C C
CC
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3 4
5 6
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3 Locate the indicated holes in
the undersides of the head
covers. These will align with
corresponding holes in the
cylinder head, which will be where
the screws will fit to hold the
parts together.
4 Check that the copper washer
is still in position on the glow
plug, as shown.
5 Place the glow plug into the
end of the socket wrench, and
then tighten it into the top of the
cylinder head, as shown.
6 Fit the left head cover onto the
top of the cylinder head, aligning
the holes (see Step 3) and the
sides of both parts. Tighten one
of the two 2.5 x 12mm screws into
the hole to secure the head cover.
7 Repeat this process to fit the
right head cover to the top of the
cylinder head.
8 Although the head covers are
secured to the head, they will still
be able to rotate, because they
are each held by only one screw.
This will allow you to swing them
aside, as shown, to access the
holes for the four screws that will
fix the head to the cylinder.
ASSEMBLY GUIDE – STAGE 53
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Assembly Guide
Coming in your next pack
Stage 55
The crankcase
PARTS SUPPLIED
Crankcase assembly, carburettor attaching screw
Stage 54
Piston, connecting rod and cylinder
PARTS SUPPLIED
Piston with connecting rod, cylinder
Stage 56
The carburettor
PARTS SUPPLIED
Carburettor, O-ring
Stage 57
The crankshaft
PARTS SUPPLIED
Crankshaft, tapered collet
Stage 58
The starter rear plate
PARTS SUPPLIED
Starter rear plate, gasket, screws
Stage 59
The recoil starter
PARTS SUPPLIED
Recoil starter, one-way bearing,
recoil starter shaft, screws
RADIO-CONTROLLED CAR WITH NITRO ENGINE
Lamborghini
Build and
Drive the
www.model-space.com
™
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