Balsa Taube 40 Assembly Manual

Brand: Balsa

Model: Taube 40

Category: Toys & accessories

Type: Assembly Manual

Assembly Manual

TAUBE

BALSA USA

P.O. Box 164

Marinette, WI 54143

(906) 863-6421

Read through the instruction manual first to familiarize yourself with the type of construction

used in this model. The manual also contains important warnings and instructions for the

assembly and the use of this model. Balsa USA’s only obligation shall be to replace such

quantity of the product to be defective. User shall determine the suitability of the product for

the intended use and shall assume all risk and liability in connection therewith.

BALSA USA KIT GUARANTEE

We at Balsa USA want you to be completely satisfied with

your kit purchase. If for any reason you are not satisfied with

any part in the kit you purchased, either from us or one of our

authorized hobby dealers, we will replace the part(s) in

question immediately. If you have any questions regarding

the construction of the model or any technical questions

regarding the kit, please call us on our customer service line.

One of our technical representatives will be happy to help

you.

Made in the USA

TTAAUUBBEE

4400

Building Instructions

Thank you for purchasing our completely new Taube 40 kit.

A lot more has changed than just this new instruction

booklet! We have simplified the construction in many areas

which will hopefully make your building experience more

enjoyable. Our step-by-step, photo illustrated instructions

will guide you through the entire assembly of the model

leaving nothing to your imagination. At least that was our

goal. In addition, the plans have been redrawn in many

areas to clarify them as well. New diecut parts have been

added as well. All in an effort to simplify the construction

of the model.

You will find the Taube an absolute joy to fly. Few WW I

models will fly as well or as easily as the Taube. If you can

handle a trainer, the Taube will be no problem at all. The 3-

channel operation makes flying even more simple and

enjoyable. If you are looking to relax and really enjoy

flying an R/C model again, you have made the right choice.

Even though the Taube is a small model, we have designed

it so it will accept standard R/C gear. You don’t need

miniature servos, standard servos and equipment will fit

inside very well.

ITEMS NEEDED TO COMPLETE THIS KIT

Radio Control System - Minimum 3 channels

Engine:.40 - .46 2-stroke

.45 - .50 4-stroke

Propeller - size depends upon the engine displacement

8 oz. Fuel Tank

(2) Packages Ny-Rod™ Pushrods

(2) Rolls Balsa USAAerospan Covering

Fuel Line

Hinges

(2) 3-3/4” Williams Bros. Vintage Wheels - for main gear

(1) 1 oz. USA Gold Thin CA

(1) 2 oz. USA Gold Thick CA

Foam Rubber for wrapping the Receiver and Battery Pack

Modeling Tools Required - sandpaper, sanding blocks, #11

hobby knife, razor blades, Balsa USA wood plane, Zona™

Saw, pliers, drill & drill bits, “T” pins, masking tape, waxed

paper, small screwdrivers, soldering iron, solder, solder

flux, straight building board, scissors, rubber bands, heat

gun & iron.

Note: The use of an incidence meter is not

recommended or necessary for the completion this

model.

WARNING

This model kit is not a toy. It is capable of causing serious

property damage and injury to yourself and/or any

bystanders. It is the buyer’s complete responsibility to

assemble the model correctly, properly install the engine,

radio, and all other equipment required to operate the

model. To make your modeling experience totally

enjoyable and satisfying, we suggest that you get

experienced help with the assembly and the for the first

flights of this model. It is always a good idea to have

another experienced modeler check your model over

thoroughly before the first flights are attempted.

We also suggest you contact the Academy of Model

Aeronautics (AMA), which has thousands of chartered

clubs across the United States. Most of them offer

instructor assisted training programs which will be very

helpful to the new modeler not only in flying, but also in

getting started with all phases of the hobby.

Join the AMA

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Telephone (800) 435-9262

FAX (317) 741-0057

About the Plans

Our plans are now produced by a Xerographic printing

method. This results in a much more accurate plan than a

traditional blueprint. However, even though the ink is fused

to the paper, the paper can still expand and contract with

changes in temperature and humidity. If you run into small

discrepancies between the parts and the plans, always go by

the parts. They are accurate and cannot change dimension

like the plans can.

The complete model is drawn on one plan sheet where all

the parts are drawn full size. The plan shows the model

exactly as it will be when completely assembled. This

covers the structural parts of the Taube that are on the

interior of the model too. These details are shown by way

of a cut-away drawing and/or in most cases by hidden lines.

Hidden (dashed) lines are on the drawing to show the details

that are hidden beneath the outer structure of the model.

The Taube is built using balsa, spruce, birch plywood, lite

(poplar) plywood, and basswood. Each of these woods have

their own characteristics and were chosen for the best

strength to weight ratios for the model. Each has a

characteristic end grain pattern that is shown on the plans.

Since most of the parts in the kit are balsa, only the plywood

and hardwood parts are marked as such on the plan. The

balsa parts called out are dimensioned for you to help you

identify them.

The plans are used to build the entire model. Be sure to

always place wax paper or Saran Wrap™ over the plans to

keep the parts from becoming glued to the plans. The plans

also show a sample radio installation which is one way the

radio can be installed in the model. We have shown a

different method in the photos of this booklet. You may

choose to install the radio any way you want based upon the

size of your servos, receiver and battery pack.

Before You Begin Construction

The most important single item you can have to build any

model is a good straight building board. We build on a

“door core” which are usually available from any decent

building supply store like Menards, Home Depot, Pay-Less,

etc. Take your straight edge with you and ask for a reject

door. Something with slight damage to the outside veneer.

This won’t affect your projects, but you can expect to pay

considerably less than half the normal cost. We covered our

door core with a sheet of Cellotex™. You could also use

foam board or any material that is flat and will accept pins

easily. Always check your building board with a straight

edge to assure that there are no warps before you begin

assembling this, or any other model for that matter.

When removing parts from the diecut sheets, do it carefully

and have a hobby knife with a #11 blade handy in case the

part might not be cut completely through. Taking your time

here, will save you a lot more time than trying to fix a

broken spar slot in a wing rib later. Punch out the parts only

as you need them. This way you won’t accidentally use the

wrong part in the wrong place in the model. Clean the parts

up if necessary using a sanding block and then only very

lightly. You just want to remove the flash, and not any of

the part itself or it will be too small. So use 220 grit paper

on the block for a little added insurance. Speaking of

sanding blocks, we talk about block sanding many times

throughout this booklet. A flat sanding block is the only

way to sand 90% of any model. Hand sanding will produce

humps and hollows because of hard and soft spots in the

balsa, glue joints, etc. Always block sand everything except

the few spots that can’t be reached with a block. When final

sanding the model start with 220 grit paper to smooth

everything out. Then progress to 320 grit paper to polish it

for covering.

When drilling holes in balsa, it is best to use a pin vise to

hold the drill bit rather than chuck it up in an electric drill.

You will be able to control the bit better and more

accurately. There are a few instances where the instructions

will call for the use of a scrap piece of balsa or plywood.

There will be plenty of scrap wood that you will be able to

use from the diecut sheets. So save some of the larger

pieces from the diecut sheets for this purpose.

Probably the best advise we can give you when assembling

the Taube is to be sure to read this booklet through

completely before beginning construction. That way you

will have a good feel for how the model will be built and

what you are going to have to do. Also it is a good idea to

read ahead a few steps when actually building. Most people

like to move ahead anyway, and this way when you do you

are less likely to assemble something out of sequence that

could cause a problem later.

About the Wood in this Kit

We always strive to put the finest quality balsa, plywood,

and hardwoods in our kits. All the parts in this kit have been

hand inspected prior to packing the kit. However, wood

being a natural product is subject to warps and twists. Many

times this happens after the kit is packed when we can’t do

anything about it. This is due to stresses that are relieved in

the parts after they are cut from a block of wood and

sometimes won’t warp right away. If you have a problem

with a warped part, give us a call and we will replace the

part immediately.

Sometimes balsa will have mineral stains and other

aesthetic imperfections that will not affect the structural

strength of the model at all. It just doesn’t look very pretty.

Because of the current supply of raw balsa, you may get

some wood like this in your kit. Rest assured, we will not

intentionally put anything in any kit that would compromise

the structural strength of the completed model. Since most

models are covered with an opaque covering material, this

will never be seen in the finished kit.

Key to Abbreviations

ELE - Elevator

LE - Leading Edge

Fuse - Fuselage

TE - Trailing Edge

STAB - Stabilizer

PLY - Plywood

LG - Landing Gear

MM - Motor Mount

“ - Inches

CA - Cyanoacrylate Adhesive

Wood Identification

Adhesives

If Balsa USA Gold CA products are used for the construction of

this model, no other adhesives will be necessary. If another CA

product is used for the construction, we recommend the use of

epoxy for the dihedral braces, attaching the firewall, and landing

gear blocks.

Thin CA- Thin CA is used primarily for tacking parts together. It

is normally followed with Thick CA to bridge any gaps and to

make a fillet of glue for maximum bonding strength. Because

Thin CA has the viscosity (thickness) of water, it will “wick” into

the wood and will flow into a joint. This will work even when the

joint is held tightly together. Curing time is approximately 5

seconds.

Thick CA - Thick CA will be your general purpose adhesive for

building this or any other model. You can use it practically

anywhere in the assembly of this model. It is especially useful for

filling small gaps and making fillets on important joints. Curing

time on this adhesive will be 20 to 45 seconds depending upon the

thickness of the glue fillet.

CA Gel - Almost like an epoxy, CA Gel can be used where more

time is needed to align parts or sliding a part in place. It will fill

even large gaps and is perfect for making larger glue fillets on

important high strength areas like firewalls, landing gear blocks,

dihedral braces, and wing joints. It is a silica filled CA and sands

easily.

Accelerator - Accelerator products will cause almost instant

curing of all CA products. Use accelerator sparingly. You just

will need a slight mist. Accelerator can be sprayed on one part

with the CA adhesive on the other. When the parts are joined,

almost instant bonding will take place. Do not use it with Thin

CA as extremely rapid curing (boiling) can take place.

Using CAs Safely

Sooner or later you are bound to glue your fingers together when

using CAs. When this happens, it is very important not to panic.

It is not difficult to remove cured CA from the skin or to part

bonded skin. When this happens, it is best to use Balsa USA Un-

Stik-It debonder to dissolve the cured CA. If this is not available,

you can also use an acetone based fingernail polish remover. It

will take longer, but it will work well. Don’t try to pry or pull

bonded skin apart! Gently roll the bonded area back and forth

while applying debonder. After a minute or two, the glue will be

dissolved and your fingers will come apart. Cured CA will not

stick to skin for a long period of time. After a day or two the

natural oils in the skin will cause the cured CA to be parted from

the skin.

As with all chemical products, read the bottle labels carefully

before use and follow the instructions. All CA adhesives are eye

irritants and will bond skin in seconds. Use them only with

adequate ventilation. In case of eye contact wash with plenty of

warm water and seek immediate medical assistance. DO NOT

TRY TO PULL BONDED SKIN APART! Keep all CA products

out of reach of children.

Metric Conversion Scale

Balsa Plywood

Key to Die Cut Parts

(2) Balsa Sheets Required - 1/8 x 3-5/8 x 39

Fuse Sides

(4) Balsa Sheets Required - 1/8 x 3 x 30

(1) Lite-Ply - 1/8 x 3-3/8 x 9-1/4

F-2

Front Dihedral

Brace

Rear Dihedral Brace

(1) Lite-Ply Sheet - 1/8 x 4 x 12

(1) Birch Plywood - 1-64 x 7-1/2 x 11

Front Deck

Sheeting

Rear Cockpit

Sheeting

Birch Plywood - 1/64 x 7-1/2 x 9

Front Cockpit Sheeting

(2) Balsa Sheet - 1/8 x 3 x 21

Trailing Edge

Wing Tip TE

F-3 F-4

F-2A

W-4

W-5

Center Rib

W-3

Key to Die Cut Parts

Fuse Doubler

(6) Balsa Sheet - 1/8 x 3 x 12

Main

Half Rib

Main

Half Rib

Main Rib

W-2

Main Rib

W-2

Leading Edge Corners

(1) Balsa Sheet - 1/8 x 3 x 21

(2) Balsa Sheet - 1/8 x 3 x 14

(2) Lite-Ply - 1/8 x 3-1/8 x 9-1/2

W-6

F-3C

F-2B

F-3A

Tip Gusset

Tip Half Rib

Aft Deck

Former

Aft Deck

Former

Aft Deck Former

Wing Construction Starts Here

The Taube wings look difficult to build at first glance, but the way

the model is designed, they will go together quite easily. It will

just be a little different compared to the models you have previ-

ously built. So don’t worry about it! Let’s get started. We will be

building both wing panels at the same time and joining them later.

1.) Start by covering the plan with wax paper or Saran™ Wrap.

2.) Cut the lower forward 1/4 x 3/8 x 24 balsa spars to length.

Note that they end just inside of the second tip rib. Pin the spars

in place on both right and left panels.

3.) Cut both 1/4 x 1/4 x 24 back spars to length. Note that they

also end just inside of the second tip rib. Pin them in place.

4.) Use the hardest of the 1/4 x 3/8 x 30 for the lower tip spar. Cut

it to fit and pin in place. Taper it from about 2-1/2” at the tip as

shown in the wingtip spars view on the plans. Glue it in place

where it touches the forward spar.

5.) Remove (4) diecut trailing edge (TE) pieces and laminate (2)

sets of each of the TE pieces together.

6.) Repeat this procedure using two sets of wingtip pieces on each

side.

7.) Sand the outside edges of all the laminated parts to remove

any bumps of adhesive.

8.) Locate the TE using two main W-2 ribs as shown above. Use

a Square or triangle to make sure the ribs are vertical. Glue them

to the main spar and the trailing edge, but not to the rear spar yet.

Do both panels, but do not glue anything together at the center of

the wings.

9.) Fit the wingtip pieces and glue them in place.

10) Laminate two double W-2 main ribs together and glue them

in place at the last main rib position where the wingtip begins to

curve. Glue the rest of the W-2 ribs in place.

PHOTO 1

Helpful Hint

Almost all models have parts that will need to be laminated

together. If you use the following technique you will be able to

laminate parts quickly, accurately, and very easily using any CA

adhesive. Carefully align the parts together. Pin them together

with two pins keeping the pins as vertical as possible. Next,

spread the two pieces apart leaving the pins in place. Apply CA

to one of the parts and push the two parts back together. The pins

will act as line up guides and you will have a perfectly laminated

part every time.

STEP 1

STEP 2

PHOTO 2

PHOTO 4

PHOTO 3

PHOTO 5

PHOTO 6

11.) Glue all (10) main false ribs in place.

12.) Glue the two W-1 center ribs in place.

13.) To fit rib W-3, you will have to trim the front and back tip to

match the leading edge and trailing edge curvature. Also you will

need to trim the spar notches so the spars will fit at the necessary

angle.

14.) Fit the false rib on the inside of W-3. Again trim the spar

notches so the spar will fit in place as was done in Step 13.

15.) Fit the false rib on the outside of W-3. Trim the spar notches

as done previously.

16.) Refer to Photo 10. Fit and glue in place the last two W-4 and

W-5 tip ribs and the two false ribs.

17.) Locate the four diecut leading edge pieces, two long and two

short. The angle is cut on the top of the LE to match the ribs. Cut

the angle on the outer end of one of the long LE strips and check

the fit with one of the diecut LE corner pieces. When it fits

properly, glue the LE to the ribs and laminate the LE corner pieces

right in place.

18.) Cut the angle on the end of one of the short wingtip leading

edge’s and fit to the laminated LE corner. Glue in place.

19.) Glue the aft (rear) 1/4” square spar in place.

20.) Cut the upper forward 1/4 x 3/8 x 24 spar to length. It ends

at the false rib about 2” shorter than the bottom spar. Carve and

sand the outer end of the spar from rib W-3 to the false rib and

glue in place.

PHOTO 7

PHOTO 8

PHOTO 9

PHOTO 10

PHOTO 11

PHOTO 12

PHOTO 13

PHOTO 14

21.) Use the 1/4 x 1/4 x 15 for the upper wingtip spar. Cut the

angle at the front of the spar so it will fit flush against the back

side of the front spar. Trim the rib notches at an angle for the spar

so it will fit in place properly. Taper the outer end of the spar as

shown in the “wingtip spars” detail drawing on the plans. When

everything fits, glue it in place.

22.) Cut the 1/4 x 1/4 x 24 spar so it will fit flush against the

wingtip spar and glue in place.

23.) Plane or carve the LE corner to match the leading edge. Do

the same with the wingtip LE. Shave it down from rib W-5 to the

tip, flattening it out until it is flat at the tip. Be careful that you

don’t break the ribs.

24.) Remove one wing panel from your building board. Block

the wing up so it is 1-1/4” high under the double rib as shown

above. Sand the upper spars on the wing root lightly (sand a little

on each panel) until the spars LE’s and TE’s fit together at the

centerline. Check for proper alignment along the LE and TE to

assure that the wing is indeed straight. When assured that it is,

glue the spars, leading edges and trailing edges.

25.) Glue the front part of the three piece center ribs in place. Be

sure to center it on the leading edge.

26.) Glue the 1/8” plywood dihedral brace in place to the back

side of the forward spars as shown above. The top of this part

must be centered on the spars. The top edge should be 3/32”

below the spars and level with the ribs on each side. The center

section sheeting will sit on top of the dihedral brace and will be

flush withe the spar. See Step 29.

27.) Glue the smaller rear dihedral brace in place exactly the same

way.

28.) Glue the other two pieces of the center rib W-6 in place. Be

sure to center these up on the dihedral braces.

PHOTO 15

PHOTO 16

PHOTO 17

PHOTO 19

PHOTO 20

PHOTO 21

PHOTO 18

29.) Use the 3/32 x 3 x 18 to sheet the center section from the

forward spar to the leading edge. Cut the sheeting to extend over

the rib about 1/4” on the outside.

30.) Sheet the next two pieces of center section using 3/32 x 3 x

12 balsa. Note that the ribs at the trailing edge may have to be

sanded down slightly so the sheeting will fit properly. The

sheeting must touch the trailing edge along the back edge.

31.) Cut a piece of 3/32” from the 18” sheet and use it to fill in

the trailing edge as shown above. The excess sheeting in the

trailing edge cutout will be cut off when the wing is turned over.

32.) Turn the wing over and trim the excess sheeting off around

the trailing edge cutout.

33.) Glue the two 1/8 x 2 x 4-3/4 plywood wing mounts in place.

Be sure the outer ends are flush with the ribs and not above the

ribs. Sheet the bottom center section with 3/32” balsa. The

bottom is sheeted the same as the top except it only extends to the

trailing edge and not over it.

34.) Plane or sand the small filler piece at the center section on

top of the wing. Shave it so is blends into the trailing edge.

35.) Some of the ribs are longer than the TE. Block sand them

until they are all the same length and fit like shown above. Sand

the trailing edge round.

Tip

Line up the dihedral brace and put (2) pins in the spars toward

each end. Refer to Photo 22. Apply glue to the brace and move

it up against the pins. Slide the dihedral brace in place using the

pins for guides.

PHOTO 22

PHOTO 23

PHOTO 24

PHOTO 25

PHOTO 26

Helpful Hint

When cutting or sanding a radius on the edges of a fuselage or

any long part, (i.e. fins, ailerons, elevators, etc.) do it in two steps

as outlined in the drawing below. This will give you a nice even

radius all along the part and makes it easy to do.

STEP 1

STEP 2

PHOTO 27

Stabilizer Construction:

1.) Cut the 1/4 x 5/8 balsa strips to length. Note that both ends of

these pieces need to be cut and an angle. Pin them in place.

2.) Cut the 1/4 x 1/2 trailing edge to fit and pin it in place. Use

the 24” long piece supplied.

3.) Cut the two shorter pieces of 1/4 x 1/2 balsa and glue them in

place.

4.) Notch the 1/4 x 5/8 balsa strip for the 1/4 x 1/4 spruce leading

edges. Use three or four pins along the outside of the LE to hold

the curve in place. Glue the LE’s in place.

5.) Cut and glue in place the 1/4” square on the center line of the

stab. Then add the 1/8 x 1/4 ribs and the 1/8 x 1/4 diagonals and

cross braces.

6.) Cut the (4) gussets at the trailing edge from scrap 1/8” balsa.

There should be plenty from the diecut sheets. Cut the two 1/4”

sheet gussets and glue them in place.

7.) Use a piece of 1/8 x 1/4 as a spline or curve template. Lay one

end against the spruce LE and bend it as necessary to give a curve

from the spruce to a point 1/8” wide at the front end of the stab.

Do both sides and then trim the excess off to your lines.

8.) Very carefully block sand the stab on both the top and bottom.

Round the spruce LE and cut the round cutout for the rudder

connector.

Fuselage Construction:

1.) Pin one diecut fuse side in place over the plans. Line it up

carefully. Not that there are marks on the plan above and below

the fuse side view. These are the former location marks. Mark #1

& #2 are for the firewall. Use a straight edge as shown above

from the center mark #2 to draw a line on the fuse side. This is

the front edge of former F-2, the back edge of the firewall, and the

front edge of the 1/8” lite-ply doubler.

2.) Pin the other fuse side directly above the first upside down.

Take care to line it up perfectly. Use a straight edge to transfer all

the former location lines. This will give you a right and a left fuse

side.

PHOTO 28

PHOTO 29

PHOTO 30

PHOTO 31

PHOTO 32

PHOTO 33

3.) On former F-4, be sure to mark both lines.

4.) Use a 1/4” stick as a spacer and move the second fuse side

further above the other. This is done just so you don’t accidentally

glue both fuse sides together.

5.) On the first fuse side, pin down the upper part of the fuse side

just above the stab cutout. Make sure it lines up right over the

plan exactly in place. Sometimes due to stress in the wood

relieved after diecutting, this may be drooped down a bit. Move

it where ever necessary so it fits the plans. Place a 1/4” stick in

the slot. Now pin the bottom part of the fuse so the stab slot will

be a perfect 1/4” from front to back the full length. Repeat this

step for the other fuse half. When both halves are pinned down

you can remove the 1/4” spacers.

6.) Cut the 1/4 x 1/2 x 36 upper longerons to length and pin them

in place. This runs from the front line drawn up by the firewall,

ahead of former F-2 to the tailpost. From now until assembling

the fuse sides together, perform all steps for both fuse sides.

7.) Cut the 1/4 x 1/4 x 24 to length and pin in place. This goes

below the stab slot from the back of former F-4 to the 1/4” square

tailpost. Fill in the space as shown above with a piece of 1/4 x 1/4

stock between the strip and top longeron from the back of former

F-4 to the front of the stab cutout.

8.) Fit and glue the 1/8 lite-ply doublers in place. The front edge

will be right on the line.

9.) Cut to length and glue in place the 1/4 x 3/8 lower longerons

and the (4) 1/4” square uprights. The lower longeron ends at the

1/4” square tailpost. The uprights are positioned using the

locating marks on the plan as was done for the formers.

Keep America Beautiful -

Fly Balsa USA Kits

PHOTO 34

PHOTO 35

PHOTO 36

PHOTO 37

PHOTO 38

PHOTO 39

10.) Refer to Photo 40. Mark the centers on the tops of formers

F-2, F-3, and F-4. Note that F-2 is marked at the top of the upper

longeron.

11.) Move the plans so former F-2 will be over the edge of the

building board as shown in Photo 42. Line former F-4 up and pin

the fuse sides down to the board right at former F-4. Be sure your

center mark on F-4 is lined up with the fuselage plan centerline.

12.) Fit former F-3 in place the same way. Note on the side view

that it is just behind the landing gear cutout on the fuse bottom and

just ahead of the cutout on the top.

13.) Put a rubber band or a couple of strips of masking tape

around the nose and tail of the model to help hold everything

together. Check the alignment on the plan centerline again. Then

use 3 or 4 drops of CA on each former to tack glue them in place.

14.) Refer to Photo 43. Put enough rubber bands or strips of

masking tape around the nose to hold it together and position

former F-2 in place. Be sure it is flush with the front edge of the

diecut fuse doublers and is positioned accurately over the

centerline. When satisfied, glue it in place.

15.) Taper the upper and lower longerons and the 1/4” square

strip as shown above and on the top view of the fuselage plan.

Leave 1/8” on each side at the very back end of the fuse so the

1/4” tailpost will fit between the fuse sides.

16.) When the tail fits together properly, glue it together. Note

that we pinned two ends from a diecut sheet to the building board

to act like a jig to hold the assembly together accurately over the

centerline.

17.) Cut to fit and glue in place the (3) 1/4” square cross pieces

in line with the fuse side uprights.

PHOTO 40

PHOTO 41

PHOTO 42

PHOTO 43

PHOTO 44

PHOTO 45

PHOTO 46

18.) Cut the 3/8 x 3/4 hardwood landing gear block to length and

glue in place. Note that it will be 1/8” higher than the fuse sides.

19.) Block sand the fuse bottom to give the bottom sheeting a nice

flat surface to glue

20.) Use the 1/8 x 3 x 30 balsa to sheet the bottom of the fuse

from the LG block aft. Use the 1/8 x 3 x 10 to sheet from the LG

block forward. Sheet this forward portion of the fuse running the

sheeting cross grain across the fuselage.

21.) Block sand the bottom at the LG block and all the forward

glue joints.

22.) Remove the fuse from the board and trim off the excess

bottom sheeting. Block sand the trimmed portions so they are

flush and clean with the sides. Cut the 1/4” square opening at the

rear of the fuselage for the tailpost.

23.) Fit the two 1/4 x 3/4 birch plywood wing mounts in place.

The shorter one goes to the front. If they are too tight, sand the

ends until you have a snug fit. The aft mount goes 1” in front of

former F-4. When positioned, glue them in place.

24.) Glue the top half of former F-4 in place. Be sure it is

centered and vertical and not slanted forward.

25.) Measure from former F-4 to the center of the two birch ply

wing mounts. These dimensions should be about 1-1/2” to the

center of the rear mount and 9-1/4” to the center of the front

mount. Mark the centers and also put a vertical centerline on

former F-4.

26.) Block sand the wing saddle to even this area out so the wing

will sit nice and flush on this surface. Be careful not to remove

much material. You just want to smooth the saddle.

27.) Glue the two 1” long landing gear support blocks in place.

Note that the groove goes against the plywood fuse doubler.

Check the photo and be sure that one has the groove towards the

rear and the other with the groove toward the front of the model.

28.) Set the wing in place. Line up the center of the trailing edge

with the centerline mark you made on former F-4 and pin the wing

down at the TE. Now measure from former F-4 and mark the

wing with the two dimensions you calculated from Step 25. These

will be for the wing bolt locations.

PHOTO 47

PHOTO 48

PHOTO 49

PHOTO 50

PHOTO 51

PHOTO 52

29.) Measure from a point at the junction of the aft spar and the

wingtip spar to the center of the tail of the fuselage as shown

above. Do this on both sides of the wing and adjust the wing until

both measurements are exactly the same. When the

measurements are the same, the wing will be square with the

fuselage. Pin or tape the leading edge so the wing cannot move.

30.) Take a corner off one of the diecut sheets and use it to cut an

angle template. Use the side view to get the proper angle on lite-

ply former F-2A. Pin in place and glue F-2A in place to the

fuselage only. Be sure to center it up. It should be about 1/16”

inside the fuse sides on each side. If it isn’t, sand it until it is. The

reason for this adjustment is that when you built the fuse on this

model fuse sides have to bend in two directions because of the

shape of the fuselage itself. Different sheets of balsa may bend

differently. This may require you to adjust the formers slightly for

a perfect fit in this location.

31.) Plane or sand the proper angle on the bottom of former F-2B

so it fits the wing leading edge. It should match former F-2A. If

it doesn’t, sand it as you did in the previous step until it does.

Work a scrap of wax paper between the wing and former F-2A on

each side. Pin former F-2B in place and glue it to the wing only.

32.) Refer to Step 28 and drill through the wing and the plywood

wing mounts at the marks you made earlier. When you drill the

holes, drill them 1/2” off of the wing centerline. Drill one 1/2” to

the right of center and one 1/2” to the left of center. The plywood

mounts will be tapped for a 1/4 x 20 bolt later in the construction.

You can use the proper bit for the tapped hole or select a smaller

bit for this step and just drill two pilot holes.

33.) Measure forward from former F-4A and mark the wing

centerline at 4-1/4”, 4-3/8”, and 4-1/2”. These will be the

locations of formers F-3A.

34.) Laminate the (2) formers F-3A together. Mark the center on

the bottom of the pieces and glue the formers on the fuselage on

the centerline of the wing at the marks you made in the previous

step. Use a square behind the formers as shown above.

35.) Fit former F-3C and glue it in place to the wing only. This

former is cut slightly oversize to accommodate building

variations. Sand it as necessary until it is 1/64” to 1/32” smaller

all around than former F4A behind it.

36.) Using corners off the diecut sheets again, cut (3) gussets as

shown above to assure the formers will not move when the wing

is removed and the cockpit area is subsequently sheeted with the

1/64” plywood.

PHOTO 53

PHOTO 54

PHOTO 55

PHOTO 56

PHOTO 57

37.) Draw a vertical centerline on

the 1/4” plywood firewall. Draw

a horizontal (thrust) line 1-3/4”

up from the bottom edge of the

firewall. Line up the engine

mount you have chosen using

these lines and drill the mounting

holes.

38.) Remove the mount and drill

out the motor mount holes with a

5/32” drill bit. Press four 4-40

blind nuts in place. Be sure to glue the back sides of the blind nuts

using a few drops of thick CA or epoxy so they can’t back out of

the holes. Take care not to get any glue in the threads.

39.) If necessary, sand the sides of the firewall until it drops into

place in the fuselage. When it does, glue it in place. On some

models it isn’t unusual for the firewall to be slightly above the

fuse side because of the odd shape of the fuse. This will not

present a problem.

40.) Fit your engine and fuel tank, then drill whatever holes

necessary in the firewall for the fuel lines to pass.

41.) Mount the servos in the fuselage wing opening. We

recommend using the servo trays made for your radio equipment.

An Airtronics installation is shown above. Use the 1/4 x 3/8 x 12

basswood supplied for servo rails. Fit the throttle pushrod as

shown above. Use a solder link at the servo end and a nylon link

on the throttle arm on the carburetor. Depending upon which

engine you decide to use, you may have to adjust the pushrod up

or down so it will line up with the throttle arm. We had to put a

“Z” bend in the pushrod to raise it slightly for the proper height.

42.) Use the 3/16 x 3/16 x 18 between formers F-3C, F-3A, and

F-2B as shown above. Fit these pieces carefully as you don’t want

to push formers F-3C and F-2B out of alignment.

43.) Use a straight edge to draw a line on the wing from former

F-3A forward about 4”. Be sure the front of the straight edge is

lined up with the edge of former F-2B. Do this on both sides of

the formers as shown.

44.) Cut the 1/8 x 1/8 x 30 balsa strip to fit between formers F-

3A and F-3C as shown above. Be sure the strip is flush with the

outside edge of the formers. This will be used as a gluing strip for

the top deck sheeting later in construction.

45.) Cut two pieces of the 1/8” square balsa 4” long and glue

them from former F-3A forward on the line you drew in step 43.

46.) Fit a piece of 3/16” square balsa between the tops of formers

F-2 and F-2A. Add the 1/8” square gluing strips between the

formers on the tops of the fuse sides as pointed out above.

47.) Double check the fit of the wing to the fuselage wing saddle.

Check and make sure that none of the formers have moved out of

place.

PHOTO 58

PHOTO 59

PHOTO 60

PHOTO 61

PHOTO 62

PHOTO 63

48.) This is going to be a tough step. Use a nickel to draw a circle

around the wing bolt holes. Now cut the wing sheeting out to the

lines to allow the wing bolts to pass through.

49.) Sand just the back facing side of the laminated F-3Aformers

at the angle shown above so the top deck sheeting will lay flat

against it. Now, sand the front facing side of the laminated F-3A

former at a slight angle so it will match up with former F-2B.

50.) Fit the diecut 1/64” plywood forward top deck sheeting in

place. You will have to let the leading edge of the wing hang over

the building board so the forward portion of the deck will clear.

There will be some overhang on the front of the deck sheeting.

Trim as necessary so the deck sheeting fits both the wing and fits

snug around both formers. When satisfied with the fit, hold the

sheeting in place and draw a line on the sheeting around former F-

3A at the aft end. Place another line 1/8” forward of the line you

just marked on the sheeting. Using a scissors, cut the sheeting

along the new line so it will end at the back edge of the forward

part of the former F-3A laminate. Leave the aft portion of the

laminated former uncovered so there will be room for the rear

cockpit sheeting.

51.) Holding the sheeting in place, place a pin both fore and aft

through the sheeting and into the formers on the center of the

model. (We will use the laminating technique as has been done

several times before to aid in this step.) Lift the sheeting up

slightly leaving the pins in place. Apply a small bead of thick CA

to the 3/16” square strips where the sheeting will touch, but stop

short of the formers by about 1/4”. Push the sheeting down on the

pins, wrap it around the formers and hold it against the 3/16”

gluing strips until the CA cures. It is important that you bend the

sheeting around the formers. If you just push it down without

bending it around the formers you will form a “hump” on each

side of the centerline in the sheeting.

52.) Finish gluing the sheeting in place. It is easier to glue down

one side at a time. When finished, carefully trim the front of the

sheeting and block sand it flush with the front former.

CAUTION: Sand only using downward strokes from the

plywood down to the former. If you sand using an up stroke you

will delaminate the plywood on the edges.

PHOTO 64

PHOTO 65

PHOTO 66

PHOTO 67

PHOTO 68

PHOTO 69

53.) Refer to Photo 69. Trim and fit the aft cockpit sheeting. This

sheet is cut oversize intentionally on the bottom sides and in the

back so there will be plenty of room to trim it for your model.

When trimming the bottom edges, use a straight edge and hobby

knife to make the trim cuts. Trim both sides a little at a time to

keep the cockpit centered and in line with the front cockpit

opening.

54.) When the sheeting fits properly, glue it in place using the

same technique as described in step 52. Trim and sand the

sheeting so it is flush with the rear former.

55.) Cut out the 3/16” gluing strips from the cockpit opening and

carefully sand the center joint. Remember the plywood is only 1-

64” thick so don’t get carried away or there will be a hole!

56.) Drill out the plywood wing mounts in the fuselage using a

3/16” bit then tap the hole using a 1/4-20 tap. When finished run

some thin CA in the tapped hole, let it cure and tap the hole again.

This will give you a much stronger thread and one that won’t

easily strip out.

57.) Drill out the wing bolt holes using a 1/4” bit so the bolts will

easily pass through.

58.) With the wing in place on the model, fit the diecut 1/64”

plywood forward deck sheeting using the same techniques as was

used for the wing top deck sheeting. When it is positioned

properly, tack glue it in place - in positions away from the wing

itself so you don’t accidentally glue the wing in place! Remove

the wing and finish gluing in place.

59.) Bolt the wing in place again and sand the deck sheeting if

there are any high spots at the wing/fuse joint. If you have to

sand, be careful so you only sand through the first layer of

plywood. There will be about 1/8” over hang past former F-2.

You can trim this off or just leave it as is. If you wish to add the

small rounded fairing as shown on the plans, cut it from scrap

1/64” ply left over from the diecut top deck sheeting. Glue a

backing strip of 1/64” plywood under the deck sheet to secure it.

60.) Sand the fuselage sides to fair into the forward deck sheeting.

61.) Sand former F-4A until it’s flush with the aft deck sheeting.

AFT DECK CONSTRUCTION:

1.) There are (3) aft deck formers. Glue the largest one to the

back side of former F-4A.

2.) Measure back 4-5/8” and glue the next largest one in place.

The last deck former is diecut into two pieces.

3.) Cut a 1/4” square balsa cross piece and glue it in place about

1” behind the last former. Slide a piece of 1/4” stock into the

stabilizer slot to keep the slot 1/4” wide during the rest of the

construction.

4.) Pin the upper fin in place. Be sure it is centered at both ends

and located 1/4” in from the end of the fuselage sides so when the

1/4” square tailpost is glued in place it will be flush with the end

of the fuselage. Bolt the wing in place and measure from the

leading edge (just before the LE corner) to your board. Shim the

fuselage until the wing is level with your board. The dimension

will be the same on both sides. Then use a square to get the fin

verticals shown in Photo 73. We pinned a scrap stick of balsa

from the top of the fin to the board to help keep it vertical while

gluing it in place.

PHOTO 70

PHOTO 72

PHOTO 73

PHOTO 71

PHOTO 74

5.) Measure back 4-5/8” from the second aft deck former and glue

the two piece former in place on each side of the fin.

6.) Cut and glue in place the 3/16 x 1/4 x 6 balsa strip from former

F-4A to the fin. Make sure it is centered on the fin.

7.) Cut to length and glue a 3/16 x 3/16 x 10 balsa strip right

alongside the 3/16 x 1/4 piece. This piece will extend to the last

top deck former.

8.) Cut the remaining 3/16” stringers to length and glue them in

place.

9.) Put one of the tail blocks in place and mark it on the bottom

along the side of the fuselage. Refer to Photo 78 and mark the

front of the block at the 3/16” rear deck stringers.

10.) Taper the block to the line on the

bottom. Then carve and sand to the

quarter round shape as shown in Photo

79. Be sure to match it to the points on

the 3/16” stringers.

11.) Glue the blocks in place on the

fuselage sides. Use a block plane or

sand the bottom corners of the fuselage

round. Use the diagram on the plans -

“Typical Fuselage Section”, to see how

much material needs to be removed.

Fit the 1/4” square tailpost in place and glue it to both the vertical

fin and the fuselage. Be sure the 1/4” spacer is in the stab slot!

After the glue has cured, remove the 1/4” spacer. Be sure to save

the other 1/4 x 1/4 x 10 piece for the rudder post.

13.) Locate the pre-cut 1/4” sub-fin. Fit and sand the outer edge

to rough shape and glue it in place.

14.) Trim the tail post off to match the fins and sand the ends to

the same radius.

15.) Sand the LE of the upper fin round. You will probably have

to trim a little material off at the front end so it will be flush with

the center stringer.

PHOTO 75

PHOTO 76

PHOTO 77

PHOTO 78

PHOTO 79

PHOTO 80

PHOTO 81

PHOTO 82

16.) Pin the 1/4 x 1/4 x 10 rudder post in place over the plans.

Sand the outside edges of the rudders round except where they

will be glued to the rudder post. If you wish, you can also radius

the aft corners slightly so they will be easier to cover.

17.) Glue the rudders to the rudder post. Trim and sand the ends

using the plans as a reference. Round the rudder post so it can be

hinged later.

18.) Hinge the rudders to the tail post.

19.) Radius both the TE of the stabilizer and the LE of the

elevator then hinge them together. We recommend not to gluing

the hinges in place until after the model is covered.

Tip

The proper way to mount a control is so the holes in the horn line

up with the center of the hinge line as shown in the drawing

above.

Finishing the Model

1.) Refer to the tip on installing control horns. Mount the elevator

and rudder control horns. Note that they should be on opposite

sides of the model so they won’t touch into each other when the

model is finished.

2.) Check over the fuselage and stabilizer and do any final

sanding necessary before gluing the stab in place. We suggest that

you fit the stab at this time, but do not glue it in place until after

the model is covered. It is easier to cover the stab and fuselage

while they are separate and you will be able to do a much better

job of covering.

3.) Cut the pushrod outlet holes at the locations shown on the

plans. Be sure to line them up with the control horns so they will

exit in a nice straight line to the control horn.

4.) Cut the two nose doublers from the 1/8 x 3 x 7 sheet stock and

glue them in place.

PHOTO 83

Hinging Tip

An easy to way to mark the center line on the elevator or mark a

line parallel from any edge for that matter, is to use this tried and

true technique. Use your third finger as a guide keeping your

other fingers and your hand stiff. You will be able to hold the pen

this way very steady and it won’t move up and down. With a lit-

tle practice you will be able to draw a straight line every time.

PHOTO 84

PHOTO 85

PHOTO 86

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Balsa Taube 40 Assembly Manual

Brand: Balsa

Model: Taube 40

Category: Toys & accessories

Type: Assembly Manual

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Balsa Taube 40 Assembly Manual

Balsa Taube 40 Assembly Manual

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