Jamara Beaver DHC 2 V2 User manual
- Category
- Toys & accessories
- Type
- User manual
Jamara Beaver DHC 2 V2, with a wingspan of ~1050 mm and a length of ~750 mm, is a radio controlled model that flies like a real plane. It is easy to assemble, and its laser cut kit makes it ideal to have with you at all times. The Beaver DHC 2 V2 is prepared for retracts, and has aileron, elevator, vertical fin, and throttle controls. It is made of lightweight balsa and plywood, and comes with a clear canopy.
Jamara Beaver DHC 2 V2, with a wingspan of ~1050 mm and a length of ~750 mm, is a radio controlled model that flies like a real plane. It is easy to assemble, and its laser cut kit makes it ideal to have with you at all times. The Beaver DHC 2 V2 is prepared for retracts, and has aileron, elevator, vertical fin, and throttle controls. It is made of lightweight balsa and plywood, and comes with a clear canopy.
Instruction
Read these instructions carefully before use.
Please keep these instruction after assembling.
Beaver DHC 2 V2
Ord. No.
00 6135
GB
!
Safety precautions
This radio control model is not a toy!
Not suitable for persons under 14 years!
* First-time builders should seek advice people having
building experience in order to assemble the model
correctly and to produce its performance to full extent.
* Assemble this kit only in places out of children’s reach!
* Take enough safety precautions prior to operating this
model. You are responsible for this model’s assembly and
safe operation!
* Always keep this instruction manual ready at hand for
quick reference, even after completing the assembly.
Safety precautions
This radio control model is not a toy!
Not suitable for persons under 14 years!
* First-time builders should seek advice people having
building experience in order to assemble the model
correctly and to produce its performance to full extent.
* Assemble this kit only in places out of children’s reach!
* Take enough safety precautions prior to operating this
model. You are responsible for this model’s assembly and
safe operation!
* Always keep this instruction manual ready at hand for
quick reference, even after completing the assembly.
2
Contents
Sicherheitshinweise
Safety Information 2
General Information 2
Technical data 2
Highlights 2
Box contents 3
Building the Model 3 - 17
Control Throws and Centre of Gravity 17
Recommended Accessories 18
Plans 19 - 21
Safety Information
Flying models are not toys, and should only be operated by res-
ponsible clear thinking people. Assembling and maintaining mo-
dels requires a basic level of technical skill, and a sensible logical
approach.
Any error in building, repairing or maintaining the model could
result in serious injury or damage. Technical problems or an incor-
rectly assembled model may lead to the propeller unexpectedly be-
ginning to turn. Always stay out of the vicinity of rotating propellers
and never allow any item to come into contact with a spinning
prop. As neither the manufacturer or the dealer has any influence
over the way that models are operated they can accept no respon-
sibility for and damage caused.
If this model is the first radio controlled model which you are att-
empting to build or fly, you should secure the assistance of an ex-
perienced model pilot. Your local dealer will be able to assist you
in locating your local model aircraft club or experienced pilots in
your area. NEVER fly your model over people and never operate the
model in way which may endanger people or animals. Before your
first flight you should conduct a range check of the radio control
system, secure the model to a solid object, and ensure that you
have full control of all functions with the antennae collapsed over a
distance of at least 25 metres. Before and after every flight inspect
the model for damage, and rectify any faults before you attempt to
take off. The operator is responsible for any damage caused by the
operation of flying models.
Always observe any local laws regarding the operation of model
aircraft.
Furthermore, the following instructions must be followed:
- The kit contains small parts which may cause choking if
swallowed, keep away from small children.
- The model should not be changed in any way, doing so will
invalidate the guarantee.
- Never come into contact with rotating parts.
- Do not fly over wet ground or grass as water will damage the
models electrical components
- Do not expose the model or batteries to direct sunlight, always
keep them in the shade.
- Inspect the model before and after every flight for damage.
- Only ever fly the model if it is in perfect working order.
- The model can only be flown in good weather. Do not fly in wind,
rain or thunder storms.
- Find a place to fly which complies with any laws, and is free from
obstacles such as trees, houses or power cables.
- Remember that your model is made from such materials as
plastic and wood, and as such is inflammable. Keep it away from
any open flame, or high temperatures.
- When operating the model, switch on the transmitter first and
then the aircraft, switch off in the reverse order.
- Always ensure that the throttle stick is in the low position before
you switch on.
General Information
As the company JAMARA e.K. has no influence over the use, main-
tenance or conditions under which our products will operate, we
accept no responsibility for any damage caused be it of a physical,
financial or theoretical nature.
JAMARA e.K. will accept no claim against it which results directly or
indirectly from the operation or use of ist products. Your Statutory
Rights apply, any claim made against us will be based solely on the
retail price of the product, and limited to the model only. This will
not apply if we are proved to be legally responsible or when gross
negligence can be proved.
Attention!
In some countries it is a legal requirement to carry third Party
indemnity insurance when operating a radio controlled mo-
del. Please ask your local dealer, governing body or your
insurance company for details.
Attention!
Switch the transmitter on first then the model.
When you are finisished first switch off the model then the
transmitter.
Technical data
Wing span ~ 1050 mm
Length ~ 750 mm
Weight ~ 650 ~ 700 g
RC 4 Kanal / 4 - 6 Servos
Motor Electric Motor
Highlights:
• Laser cut kit
• Ideal to have with you at all times
• Prepared for retracts (only Bonanza)
• Aileron, elevator, vertical n and throttle
• Fuselage made of balsa and plywood
• Wings made of wood in rib construction
3
Kit Contents:
• CNC LASER cut formers and ribs, strip wood, selected light
weight balsa sheet and aircraft grade plywood.
• Fitting kit including wheels, undercarriage, horns and hinges.
• Clear canopy.
• Instructions.
1. The motor mount is made of 2 x 1.5 mm plywood glued
together. The mounting holes (16/19 mm bolt circle) are from
the middle! Down thrust and train are build in the motor
mount. Later, the spinner is centered.
3. Stick the plywood rings centred on the holes and tighten the
drive-in nuts carefully. Secured with a drop of glue.
2. Have the 3 mm plywood rings with drive-in nuts ready.
4. We recommend to put the motor mount together as shown,
so that the side with two slots is in flight direction left. This
will pre-set the camber and side pull to 2° (bottom/right).
4
5. The first fuselage frame is stuck to the motor mount. Before
this, place the spout into place and and fold over side pieces.
6. Stick the top cover in place.
7. The next two pieces of the fuselage frame are now stuck to
the battery hatch in a right angle. Leave to dry.
9. Make sure all parts are in a right angle
8. Now mount the rear fuselage frame. Slide the fuselage frame
right to back edge and glue in a right angle.
10. Arrange the wing supports. Make sure the drive-in nuts are
facing down.
5
11. Glue the wing support together and leave to dry. 12. Glue the undercarriage support and cockpit border at the top.
13. Glue the undercarriage wire support in place as shown.
15. Glue the fuselage side pieces to the fuselage frame..
14. The fuselage is prepared and glued.
Tip:
To avoid unnecessary edges, cover the edges and glue from
the back with thin super glue to each other. Outbreaks may
remain.
16. Fit a 4 x 4 balsa bar to the upper edge so a radius can later be
sanded.
6
17. The next two fuselage frames are now placed between the
two side pieces and glued together.
Make sure they are straight!
18. If swimmers are mounted later on, the bottom fuselage cover
can be adjusted so that a second undercarriage wire can be
fitted later on.
19. The rear fuselage upper part, elevator and the last little piece
of plywood frame are glued. Now cut 15mm long stripes
from 4 mm balsa and stick to the edges. These should overlap
and be sanded later.
Tip:
Start at the front. Make sure no deformations aprear and if
they do, correct them.
21. Glue 3 mm balsa strips on top
20. The images shows the front underside. Sand down the edge
slightly.
22. Sand the surface round..
7
23. 1.5 mm balsa strips are glued to the edges of the sides. 24. This pieces is sanded later on as well. Therefore lay out frame
1 and 2 with 4mm balsa.
25. Cover with 1.5 mm balsa.
27. Lay 6 mm balsa on the tail and only glue the front side to the
bulkhead. Equally so the end of fusealage from 6 mm balsa.
The gross form is secondary here, as the parts get their shape
by grinding.
26. It is recommended to apply a dummy empennage made of
4 mm balsa left overs before hand. It is only fit and reomved
later on. It will help you to correctly fix and determine the
empennage parts.
28. The tail incl. dummy empennage sanded.
8
29. After removing the dummy, the gaps in the empennage can
be seen.
30. The top cockpit section is glued with 1.5 mm balsa.
31. The sides of the window frame are glued with balsa.
33. If the bracket is installed and fixed to the plywood board, the
chassis side panels are made. A panel is formed from three
layers of balsa wood. In the middle boards you will find that
there is already a groove for the wire to be fitted in place.
32. Use 3 mm spring steel to shape the undercarriage
34. Test…
9
35. … and adjust. 36. Finally, glue with 3 mm balsa to a “sandwich”.
37. If no rear wheel is added, we recommend to strengthen the
tail with 6 mm balsa.
39. The elevator.
38. Steering shaft and rudder shaft are aligned collinear. The wire
is guided through a piece bowden tube.
40. The rudder.
10
41. The two rudders are fitted together with a piece of spring
wire.
42. Sand the edges of the rudder.
43. In this case the elevator is fitted with a foil hindge and this is
the reason why the edges are only sanded on one side.
45. The wing mount glued from 2 pcs of 1.5 mm plain plywood
44. A groove is cut out in the back piece of the elevator. Insert the
wire and glue together. The wire should be able to move
freely.
46. Glue them together well.
11
47. Also the brackets are glued with two pcs. of plywood. 48. If the grooves of the ribs are aligned, two little noses will
show. These fit later on in rib R1.
49. Wing halfs made from balsa ribs (sequence R2 - R9) and
assembly of the bar.
51. Some ribs are higher than the bar. These are later planked.
50. Now the back bar is fitted
Tip:
The wing can be assembled on the plan but a line in
right-angle is efficient as well. Make sure to align the ribs
before glueing.
52. The servo supports are glued to the underside
12
53. The landing flap bars are aligned. 54. The aileron panel at an oblique angle.
Tip:
To hang up the wing again to plan, the lower projection of
the aileron panel remove the same.
57. Glue supports to the ribs.
55. Glue the edges of the rudder to the bar. 56. Put a piece of 1.5 mm balsa under the first rib to make sure
the end bar is not move forward slightly.
58. The first third of the wing is now planked.
Tip:
Slide the wood right to the bar and glue to the bar.
13
59. Put a wet cloth on the outer wings so they can be formed
easier.
Tip:
Make sure all is aligned!
The underside has to lay on the plan until the glue is dried.
You may have to put weights on the opposite side. 1.5 mm
wood can be laid under the first rib to produce a cant.
60. The edges of the planking is sanded until you reach the ribs.
61. The next step is to plank the underside.
63. Plank and sand the upper part.
62. In the area of the wing screw, a end bar is applied to avoid
extruding.
64. Cut of the planking until you reach the first rib. Cut off with
approx 4 - 5 mm to the bar.
14
65. Now the nose bar is glued. What is twisted now will stay like
this. With glueing the nose bar the wing will finally get its
stability. Before you start glueing, the wing needs to be fxed
to the building board.
66. Both wings are now sanded and are ready to be glued.
67. The wing bracket might have to be sanded and slided right in
the wing to fit the groove. It is efficient to use thin glue as
paste might not have enough room.
69. Der Randbogen wird 4 - 1/2 lagig aus 6 mm Balsa aufgebaut.
The tip is glued with 6 mm 4 - 1/2 layers.
68. The other side is now pushed in and both are glued with
epoxy or paste.
Tip:
Make sure to glued edge to edge.
70. Sand the edge.
15
71. Also sand the underside. 72. Polish.
73. Wings and fuselage can now be adjusted.
The upper part of the fuselage above the wing is part of the
balsa established.
74. Two rings made of plywood support the material surounding
the wing screws which are applied later.
75. Two holes are applied to the upper planking to have access to
the wing screws.
76. Cut out the aileron and flaps. Start at the end side.
16
77. Then along the bar between bar and rudder with
a utility knife to cut.
78. A rudder is created which can be fitted with hindge tape or
foil.
79. Overlaying rib pieces can now be sanded.
81. The surface shows the inside strut backwards.
The servo frame is applied to the wing.
80. To avoid creases in the foil around the rudder, a frame is
created with 1.5 mm balsa.
After applying the covering foil, the frame can be cut-out
again and the rudder horn can be finally glued.
82. The struts can be covered with balsa strips.
17
83. Three layers from 1.5 mm 84. Ready for sanding
85. Servo mounting
Cut the hole for the servo cover the servo shafts in the wings.
86. The servo cover should be installed .
The second option shows the servo cover for the flap servos.
87. The servo mountig for elevator and rudder servo 88. Example of installation with rear mounted engine.
18
Set-up:
Aileron: +/- 10 mm deflection
Elevator: +/- 10 mm deflection
Rudder: +/- 25 mm deflection
CG: 43 ~ 45 mm from the nose
Down thrust ~ 2° down (already installed)
Traction ~ 2 ~ 2,5 to the right (2˚ installed)
Ord. No. 14 1368
Battery
LiPo Star Turbo 1800mAh 3N
Ord. No. 13 2217
Motor A2217/8-BI
Ord. No. 17 7312
Tail Skid wheel steerable
25 mm complete
Ord. No. 08 1925
Controller Xetronic 25A
Ord. No. 34 0058
Propeller
APC elektro 9 x 6
Ord. No. 07 4412
4 - 6 x Servos
XT - 9
Accessories
19
20
Plane - The original sized plan can be found on the DVD
Top view
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Jamara Beaver DHC 2 V2 User manual
- Category
- Toys & accessories
- Type
- User manual
Jamara Beaver DHC 2 V2, with a wingspan of ~1050 mm and a length of ~750 mm, is a radio controlled model that flies like a real plane. It is easy to assemble, and its laser cut kit makes it ideal to have with you at all times. The Beaver DHC 2 V2 is prepared for retracts, and has aileron, elevator, vertical fin, and throttle controls. It is made of lightweight balsa and plywood, and comes with a clear canopy.
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