1
INSTRUCTIONS FOR FINAL ASSEMBLY
The Wattage F-22 Raptor EP is distributed exclusively by Global Hobby Distributors 18480 Bandilier Circle, Fountain Valley, CA 92728
All contents copyright © 2001, Global Hobby Distributors Version V1.0 Feb. 2001
Thank you for choosing the Wattage F-22 Raptor EP for your next project. The F-22 Raptor EP is
a stand-off scale electric-powered sport airplane built specifically to be flown in large parks or fields.
The full-scale F-22 Raptor, developed at Aeronautical Systems Center, Wright-Patterson Air Force
Base, Ohio, is the replacement for the F-15 Eagle air-superiority fighter. It combines stealth design
with the supersonic, highly maneuverable, long-range requirements of an air-to-air fighter.
While the Wattage F-22 Raptor EP won't go supersonic, it is highly maneuverable and lightweight
for its size. Features such as a one-piece molded foam fuselage, molded foam wing panels and
molded foam flying surfaces add up to make a lightweight yet durable airframe that is very easy to
repair in the event of a mishap. And because it is lightweight, performance using the included 370
size motor and gear box is excellent. The airplane is quite fast, yet is very stable throughout the
entire speed range, making it a perfect choice for both the experienced pilot and for those pilots just
graduating from their first sport airplane.
When you open the box, you will notice that you won't have much left to do or to purchase to
finish your new airplane. In addition to the usual nuts and bolts, the F-22 Raptor EP includes a 370
size motor with gear box, a propeller, prebent wire pushrods, prebent stabilator tubes, clear canopy
and a colorful decal sheet. The F-22 Raptor EP kit even includes optional landing gear and wheels
for those of you who want to be able to take off from the ground without hand-launching.
We hope you enjoy your new Wattage F-22 Raptor EP as much as we have enjoyed designing
and building it for you. If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to contact us. We
have also included a product survey in the back of this manual. After you have finished assembling
the airplane, please take a moment to fill it out and send it to us. We always enjoy hearing the
comments and suggestions that you have.
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SAFETY WARNING
This R/C airplane is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only in open
areas and preferably at a dedicated R/C flying site. We suggest having a qualified instructor carefully inspect your
airplane before its first flight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this airplane, your radio
control system and electronic speed control.
OUR GUARANTEE
Wattage guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship, at the date of purchase. This
does not cover any component parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Wattage's liability
exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.
In that Wattage has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using
the final user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Safety Warning ...............................................................2
Our Recommendations...................................................3
F-22 Raptor EP Setup Information ................................4
Additional Items Required .............................................5
Tools and Supplies Required .........................................5
Metric Conversion Chart................................................5
Kit Contents....................................................................6
Replacement Parts ..........................................................6
Motor Break-in...............................................................7
Breaking In the Motor .............................................7
Wing Installation ............................................................8
Aligning the Wing Panels ........................................8
Installing the Wing Panels .......................................8
Stabilator Installation .....................................................9
Installing the Stabilator Tubes .................................9
Installing the Stabilators ........................................10
Stabilizer Installation ...................................................11
Aligning the Stabilizers .........................................11
Installing the Stabilizers ........................................12
Nose Cone Installation .................................................12
Trimming the Nose Cone.......................................12
Installing the Nose Cone........................................12
Painting the F-22 Raptor EP ........................................12
Preparing the Airframe for Paint ...........................12
Painting the Airframe ............................................12
Servo Installation .........................................................13
Installing the Motor Plate ......................................13
Installing the Servos ..............................................13
Motor Installation.........................................................14
Assembling the Gear Box......................................14
Installing the Motor Assembly ..............................14
Pushrod Installation .....................................................14
Installing the Stabilators ........................................14
Installing the Pushrods...........................................15
Canopy & Motor Cover ...............................................16
Trimming the Canopy ............................................16
Installing the Canopy .............................................16
Trimming the Motor Cover....................................16
Optional Landing Gear ................................................17
Installing the Main Gear ........................................17
Installing the Nose Gear ........................................18
Final Assembly.............................................................18
Installing the Propeller...........................................18
Installing the Receiver ...........................................19
Installing the ESC ..................................................19
Applying the Decals ..............................................20
Balancing......................................................................20
Balancing the F-22 Raptor EP ...............................20
Control Throws ............................................................20
Preflight Check.............................................................21
Safety............................................................................21
Flying the F-22 Raptor EP ...........................................22
Glossary of Terms ........................................................22
Camouflage Paint Scheme Detail ................................24
Vertical Stabilizer Alignment Template.......................25
Product Evaluation Sheet.............................................27
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This instruction manual is designed to guide you through the entire final assembly process of your new Wattage F-22
Raptor EP in the least amount of time possible. Along the way you'll learn how to properly assemble your new
airplane and also learn assembly tips that will help you in the future. We have listed some of our recommendations
below. Please read through them before going any further.
The F-22 Raptor EP is constructed of a combination of EPS and Closed Cell foam. It is very impor-
tant that you use no solvents, Cyanoacrylate (C/A) glue, or paint that can damage foam. If any of
these chemicals comes in contact with the foam parts, the parts will be destroyed and will not be
covered under warranty. Use only epoxy where glue is required. If you decide to paint the F-22
Raptor EP, use an acrylic paint that will not attack foam and always test on a scrap piece first.
✔ Please read through each step before starting as-
sembly. You should find the layout very complete and
simple. Our goal is to guide you through assembly
without any of the headaches and hassles you might
expect.
✔ There are check boxes next to each step. After you
complete a step, check off the box. This will help you
keep from losing your place.
✔ Cover your work table with brown paper or a soft
cloth, both to protect the table and to protect the indi-
vidual parts.
✔ Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to put
the small parts in after you open the accessory bags.
✔ We have included a glossary of terms beginning
on page # 22. Check it out if you come across a term
that is unfamiliar to you.
✔ We're all excited to get a new airplane in the air,
but take your time. This will ensure you build a straight,
strong and great flying airplane.
✔ If you come across this symbol
☛
, it means that
this is an important point or an assembly hint.
If you should find a part missing or damaged, or have any questions about assembly, please
contact us at the address below:
Wattage Customer Care
18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain Valley CA 92728
Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236 E-mail: service@globalhobby.net
The following section describes our general recommendations to help you in deciding which types of accessories to
purchase for your new Wattage F-22 Raptor EP. We have tested all of these items with the airplane and found that these
products will offer the best in performance, reliability and economy.
OUR RECOMMENDATIONS
The F-22 Raptor EP will require a minimum 3 channel radio control system with two micro servos and a micro or mini
receiver. To save weight the transmitter should have elevon mixing capabilities. The radio system we recommend using
is the Hitec Focus 3 FM radio with a Hitec Micro 555 receiver and two HS-55 Micro servos. The Hitec Focus 3 AM
system with a Hitec HAS-3MB receiver will also work well. In this case though, you will need to purchase two after-
market micro servos - either Hitec HS-55 servos (P/N 759257) or Cirrus CS-10 servos (P/N 444052).
If you want to purchase a radio system that will be more upgradeable in the future, the four channel Hitec Flash 4XG
would be a good choice. This radio includes a Hitec Micro 555 receiver; however, you will need to purchase two after-
market micro servos - either Hitec HS-55 servos (P/N 759257) or Cirrus CS-10 servos (P/N 444052).
If you already have a standard sized radio system, you will need to purchase an after-market mini or micro receiver and
two micro servos. If you need to purchase these items we recommend using the Hitec Micro 555 receiver (P/N 759118)
and two Cirrus CS-10 servos (P/N 444052). If your radio does not feature elevon mixing, a separate elevon mixer will be
necessary. We recommend using the Wattage Elevon Mixer (P/N 128460).
RADIO CONTROL SYSTEM
Continued on Next Page
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To operate the motor, we suggest using a proportional electronic speed control (ESC) that features battery eliminator
circuitry (BEC) and auto-cutoff. BEC allows you to eliminate the receiver battery and uses the flight battery to control
both the motor and the radio system. Eliminating the receiver battery provides a great weight savings which effectively
increases performance. The auto-cutoff feature turns off the motor when the voltage in the battery drops too low to
operate the radio system safely. This guarantees safe operation throughout the entire flight. To obtain these features, we
suggest using the Wattage IC-15A ESC (P/N 128484). The IC-15A is a high frequency controller that is microprocessor-
controlled for linear throttle response and features no-hassle digital setup.
The battery you choose should be the Wattage 8 cell (9.6Volt) 600Mah Nickel Cadmium (NiCD) battery pack (P/N 128522)
or the Wattage 8 cell 800Mah Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) battery pack (P/N 128524). The 8 cell NiCD battery pack will
provide more power, resulting in higher speed and better climb-out. The 8 cell NiMH battery pack will give you about 25%
longer run-time than the NiCD battery pack, but not quite as much overall power.
Battery Warning!
To ensure extended battery life and the best performance, the 600Mah battery listed above should be charged at no
more than 1amp and the 800Mah battery should be charged at no more than 1.4amps. Always allow the battery to cool
before recharging. Never charge the battery when it is hot.
ELECTRONIC SPEED CONTROL
FLIGHT BATTERY
Because the flight battery powers both the motor and the radio system, we suggest using an Automatic Delta Peak Charger
such as the Promax Activator Digital Peak Charger (P/N 885650) to charge the flight battery. It is vital to the F-22 Raptor
EP's flying performance that the battery pack be fully charged every flight, so using a peak charger is very important.
BATTERY CHARGER
Radio System
It is very important that the F-22 Raptor EP be assembled using the lightest-weight accessories available. The lighter
the airplane weighs the better it will fly. We strongly suggest using the very light-weight Cirrus CS-10 servos or the
Hitec HS-55 servos, and the Hitec Micro 555 receiver or Hitec HAS-3MB receiver that we recommended. Removing
the case from the receiver you use will save even more overall weight.
Painting the F-22 Raptor EP
The F-22 Raptor EP comes prepainted with a base coat of light gray. If you decide to paint camouflage on your
airplane, use only a very light coat of paint - only enough to barely cover the base coat. Using more paint than is
necessary will only add to the overall weight of the airplane, and excess paint adds up fast. Before painting, make sure
that you test the compatibility of the paint on an extra piece of foam. For the best quality and compatibility we suggest
using Tamiya acrylic paints. These paints can either be brushed on or, preferably, airbrushed on.
To R.O.G. or Not?
The F-22 Raptor EP includes the option of adding tricycle landing gear to the airplane. All of the necessary parts are
included. If you plan on flying off anything other than a very hard, smooth surface, we suggest not installing the
landing gear. If you fly off a hard, smooth runway you can use the landing gear to take off and land. Keep in mind
though, that adding the landing gear does add weight and drag to the airplane. Performance with the landing gear on
will be slightly decreased. If you don't use the landing gear a prebent wire is included to prevent the propeller from
striking the ground during landings.
F-22 Raptor EP Setup Information
5
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
❑ {1} Hitec Focus 3 AM Radio System
❑ {2} Cirrus CS-10 Micro Servos # 444052
❑ {2} Cirrus 12" Servo Extensions # 444713
❑ {1} Wattage IC-15A ESC # 128484
❑ {1} Wattage 8C 600Mah NiCD Battery # 128522
❑ {1} Promax Activator Digital Charger # 885650
❑ {1} Dubro Hook & Loop Material # 568906
❑ {1} Dubro 3/16" Heat Shrink Tubing # 867887
❑ {1} Trinity AA Batteries - 8 Pack # 837801
❑ {1} Clear Scotch
®
Tape
OPTIONAL ITEMS
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy # 887560
❑ Kwik Bond Thick C/A # 887510
❑ Excel Modeling Knife # 692801
❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑ 1/16" Hex Wrench
❑ Adjustable Wrench
❑ Needle Nose Pliers
❑ Wire Cutters
❑ Hand or Electric Drill
❑ Assorted Drill Bits
❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑ Ruler
❑ {1} Hitec Flash 4X FM Micro Radio System
❑ {1} Wattage 8C 800Mah NiMH Battery # 128524
❑ {1} Wattage Elevon Mixer # 128460
❑ Pencil
❑ Scissors
❑ Masking Tape
❑ Rubbing Alcohol
❑ Paper Towels
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks # 864204
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups # 864205
❑ TS Racing Oil # 961002
❑ Performance Plus Motor Spray # 340186
❑ Machine Oil or Vaseline
®
❑ K&S 30 Watt Soldering Iron # 598120
❑ Kester Solder # 398505
IMPORTANT
The part numbers shown for the Cirrus servos, servo
extensions and elevon mixer are compatible with Hitec
and JR radio systems. These items are also available
with plugs that are compatible with Airtronics and Fu-
taba radio systems. Please check with your dealer for
those part numbers.
To convert inches into millimeters: Inches x 25.4 = mm
1/64" = .4mm
1/32" = .8mm
1/16" = 1.6mm
3/32" = 2.4mm
1/8" = 3.2mm
5/32" = 4.0mm
3/16" = 4.8mm
1/4" = 6.4mm
3/8" = 9.5mm
1/2" = 12.7mm
5/8" = 15.9mm
3/4" = 19.0mm
1" = 25.4mm
2" = 50.8mm
3" = 76.2mm
6" = 152.4mm
12" = 304.8mm
18" = 457.2mm
21" = 533.4mm
24" = 609.6mm
30" = 762.0mm
36" = 914.4mm
METRIC CONVERSION CHART
If you are going to paint the camouflage on the F-22 Raptor EP you will need the following items:
❑ Tamiya Dark Sea Gray Acrylic Paint # 335584
❑ Badger Deluxe Airbrush Set # 537126
❑ Tack Rag
IMPORTANT
The F-22 Raptor comes with a prepainted light gray base coat. It's important that you don't use masking tape to hold any
of the parts together. If you do, the paint will be damaged when you pull up the tape.
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KIT CONTENTS
We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for easier identification during assembly. Before you begin
assembly, group the parts like we list them. This will ensure that you have all of the parts before you begin assembly and
it will also help you become familiar with each part.
If you find a part missing or damaged please call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email at service@globalhobby.com
AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES
❑ {1} Molded Foam Fuselage
❑ {1} Molded Foam Hatch Cover
❑ {1} Molded Foam Right Wing Panel
❑ {1} Molded Foam Left Wing Panel
❑ {2} Molded Foam Stabilators
❑ {2} Molded Foam Vertical Stabilizers
❑ {1} Molded Plastic Motor Cover
❑ {1} Molded Plastic Nose Cone
❑ {1} Molded Plastic Canopy
MOTOR & GEAR BOX ASSEMBLY
❑ {1} 370 Size Motor w/Pinion Gear
❑ {1} Molded Gear Box Front w/Bushings
❑ {1} Molded Gear Box Back
❑ {1} 7.5 x 5 Nylon Propeller
❑ {1} Propeller Shaft w/Nylon Gear
❑ {3} 3mm Hex Nuts
❑ {5} 3mm x 9mm Wood Screws
❑ {1} 3mm x 10mm Self-Tapping Screw
CONTROL ASSEMBLIES
❑ {2} Prebent Aluminum Stabilator Tubes
❑ {4} Nylon Inserts
❑ {2} Nylon Actuator Arms
❑ {2} Nylon Stabilator Retainers
❑ {4} Prebent Pull-Pull Rods
❑ {2} 4mm Thick Foam Spacers
❑ {1} Stabilator Reinforcement Board
MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS
LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLY
❑ {1} Prebent Nose Gear Wire
❑ {2} Prebent Main Gear Wires
❑ {3} 40mm Diameter Wheels
❑ {3} Wheel Collars w/Set Screws
❑ {4} 3mm x 9mm Wood Screws
❑ {4} 3mm Flat Washers
❑ {1} Brass Nose Gear Bracket w/Set Screw
❑ {2} 3mm x 25mm x 30mm Plywood Plates
❑ {1} 3mm x 20mm x 23mm Plywood Plate
❑ {1} 3mm x 20mm x 30mm Plywood Plate w/Hole
❑ {2} 3mm Plywood Angled Plates
❑ {1} 3mm Plywood Motor Plate
❑ {1} Prebent Wire Tail Skid
❑ {1} Double-Sided Tape
❑ {6} 2mm x 5mm Wood Screws
❑ {1} Decal Sheet
Wattage carries a complete line of replacement parts for your F-22 Raptor EP. Listed below are the replacement parts
that are available along with their respective part numbers for easy ordering convenience. These replacement parts can
be ordered through your local dealer or directly from Wattage by calling 1-714-963-0329.
REPLACEMENT PARTS
Molded Foam Fuselage - 145322
Wing Panel Set - 145321
Stabilizer Set - Complete - 145324
Hatch Cover - 145323
Plastic Parts Set - Complete - 145325
Landing Gear Set - 145326
Control Linkage Set - 145327
Decal Sheet - 145328
Instruction Manual - 145320
Gear Box Set (3.67:1) - 131371
7.5 x 5 Nylon Propeller - 131381
370 Size Motor - 131350
7
☛
Before beginning assembly, we recommend that you
first break in the motor. Taking the time to do this now
will do a couple of things. First, it will improve the per-
formance and life of the motor and, second, it will give
you a chance to test your radio system, electronic speed
control (ESC) and flight battery before installing them into
the airplane.
❑ 1) Lay the radio system, motor, flight battery, peak
charger and ESC onto your work table.
❑ 2) Charge the flight battery using your peak
charger, following the instructions that were provided
with the charger. Install 8 AA batteries into the Focus 3
transmitter.
❑ 3) Plug the two servo leads and the ESC lead into
their proper slots in the receiver.
❑ 4) Using a soldering iron, carefully solder the ESC
motor leads to the leads preinstalled on the motor. Make
sure to use heat shrink tubing to insulate the solder joint.
❑ 5) Set the motor between the handles of a pair of
needle nose pliers and secure the motor to the handles
using a couple of small rubber bands. This will keep the
motor secure enough for the break-in procedure. See
photo # 1 below.
MOTOR BREAK-IN
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
❑ Needle Nose Pliers
❑ Paper Towels
❑ TS Racing Oil
❑ Performance Plus Motor Spray
❑ K&S 30 Watt Soldering Iron
❑ Kester Solder
BREAKING IN THE MOTOR
Photo # 1
❑ 6) Turn on the transmitter and plug the flight bat-
tery into the ESC. Make sure that the throttle is at idle
and that the motor is turned off.
❑ 9) Using a couple of paper towels, wipe off the
excess motor spray and oil.
❑ 10) Slowly turn on the motor. Position the throttle
lever to about 1/3 throttle and let the motor run. While
the motor is running, apply a light spray of motor spray
inside the motor openings once every minute, followed
by a small drop of racing oil on each end of the motor
shaft. Do this until the battery is fully discharged.
❑ 11) After the battery has discharged and the motor
has stopped, spray motor spray through the motor open-
ings until the fluid runs clear. Apply a couple of drops of
racing oil to each end of the motor shaft and wipe away
all of the excess using paper towels.
Photo # 2
❑ 7) With the motor turned off, test the operation of
the two servos. Both servos should move when you move
the control stick.
❑ 8) Carefully spray a couple of light sprays of mo-
tor spray inside the motor openings and apply a small
drop of racing oil onto each end of the motor shaft. See
photo # 2 below.
IMPORTANT
For longer motor life and continued performance, it's a
good idea to regularly clean the motor. Before doing
this, the motor/gearbox assembly should be removed
from the airplane. Remove the motor from the gearbox
and begin by spraying motor spray onto the motor com-
mutator until the fluid runs clear. Place a couple of
drops of racing oil on each end of the motor shaft and
run the motor at 1/3 throttle while spraying the commu-
tator with motor spray. Run the motor for about 1 minute
then oil each end of the motor shaft and reinstall the
motor/gearbox assembly onto the airplane. This pro-
cess keeps the motor bushings lubricated and the
commutator clean. Complete this task every 30 to 40
flights for best performance.
DATE CLEANED
8
WING INSTALLATION
❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy
❑ Excel Modeling Knife
❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑ Ruler
❑ Pencil
❑ Rubbing Alcohol
❑ Paper Towels
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups
ITEMS REQUIRED
❑ {1} Molded Foam Fuselage
❑ {1} Molded Foam Right Wing Panel
❑ {1} Molded Foam Left Wing Panel
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
ALIGNING THE WING PANELS
❑ 1) Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block,
carefully sand smooth the molded seam along only the
wing mounting areas of the fuselage, making sure not to
distort the angles. For a better glue bond it's important
to remove all of the paint from the gluing surfaces. See
photo # 3 below.
Photo # 3
❑ 2) Using a ruler and a pencil, measure forward
1-3/16" from the trailing edge of one wing panel, at the
wing root, and draw a mark. Measure 1-3/16" out from
the wing root, at the trailing edge, and draw a second mark.
See photo # 4 below.
Photo # 4
❑ 3) Using a ruler and a modeling knife, carefully cut
off the corner of the wing at the two marks you drew. See
photo # 5 below.
Photo # 5
☛
The F-22 Raptor EP uses stabilators for pitch and roll
control. There are no ailerons.
Do not cut out the
molded hinge line on the bottom of the wing.
❑ 4) Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block,
carefully sand the wing root smooth and straight, being
careful not to distort the angle.
The proper angle is
molded into both the wing root and the fuselage.
❑ 5) Test fit the wing to the fuselage. To line up the
wing properly, the centerline of both the leading edge and
the trailing edge should be lined up with the molded fuse-
lage seam. There should also be a 1/8" gap between the
notch you cut in the trailing edge of the wing and the
molded rear fuselage fairing. See photo # 6 below.
Photo # 6
☛
The wing panel should fit firmly against the fuse-
lage side without any gaps between the two. If there are
any gaps, use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block to
carefully sand down the high spots.
❑ 6) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 5 Minute
Epoxy. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to only the root end
of the wing panel, making sure that you cover all of the
gluing area.
❑ 7) Fit the wing panel back into place and realign
it. Remove any excess epoxy that squeezes out of the
joint using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold
the wing panel firmly in place until the epoxy sets up.
❑ 8) Repeat steps # 2 through # 7 to align and install
the second wing panel.
INSTALLING THE WING PANELS
9
STABILATOR INSTALLATION
❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy
❑ Excel Modeling Knife
❑ 9/64" Drill Bit
❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑ Ruler
❑ Pencil
❑ Rubbing Alcohol
❑ Paper Towels
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups
ITEMS REQUIRED
❑ {2} Molded Foam Stabilators
❑ {2} Prebent Aluminum Stabilator Tubes
❑ {4} Nylon Inserts
❑ {1} Stabilator Reinforcement Board
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
INSTALLING THE STABILATOR TUBES
❑ 1) Working on the right side of the fuselage for now,
use a ruler and a pencil to measure back 1/2" from the
back edge of the fuselage, along the mold line, and draw
a mark. See photo # 7 below.
Photo # 7
❑ 2) Using a ruler and a pencil, draw a line, across
the top of the fuselage, that is flush with the back edge of
the fuselage. See photo # 8 below.
Photo # 8
❑ 3) Using a ruler and a pencil, measure back 1/2"
from the line you drew across the top of the fuselage, and
draw a vertical line, on the outside edge of the fuselage,
that crosses the mold line.
❑ 4) Using a 9/64" drill bit, carefully drill a hole
through the fuselage where the marks you drew and the
mold lines intersect. Make sure to drill the hole parallel
to the back edge of the fuselage and at a 90º angle to the
fuselage side. See photo # 9 below.
☛
To prevent tearing up the foam, don't drill the hole
using an electric drill. It is better to use your fingers to
slowly twist the drill bit.
❑ 5) Temporarily push one nylon insert into each side
of the hole you drilled. The molded flanges should be
pushed firmly against the foam.
❑ 6) Slide the longer end of one aluminum stabilator
tube through the two nylon inserts. Check the alignment
of the tube carefully. When viewed from the back the
tube should be even with the mold line and, when viewed
from the top, the tube should be parallel to the back edge
of the fuselage. See photo # 10 below.
❑ 7) When satisfied with the alignment, remove the
stabilator tube and both nylon inserts and set them aside.
❑ 8) Mix a small quantity of Kwik Bond 5 Minute
Epoxy and apply a thin layer to only the gluing surfaces
of each nylon insert.
☛
Be careful not to get any epoxy on the insides of the
inserts.
Photo # 9
Photo # 10
10
❑ 12) Using a modeling knife and a ruler, carefully
cut out the two molded foam stabilators along their outer
edges.
☛
Do not confuse the stabilators with the vertical stabi-
lizers. The stabilators are smaller and shaped differently.
❑ 13) Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block,
sand the edges of both stabilators smooth and straight,
being careful not to alter the molded angles.
❑ 14) Using a ruler and a pencil, measure forward
1-9/16" from the trailing edge of one stabilator, at the root,
and draw a mark. Measure 1-9/16" out from the stabilator
root, at the trailing edge, and draw a second mark. See
photo # 11 below.
❑ 9) Apply a thin layer of machine oil or Vaseline onto
the long section of the stabilator tube.
☛
The machine oil or Vaseline will prevent the tube from
being glued into place should any epoxy get on it.
❑ 10) Install the nylon inserts and slide the stabilator
tube back into place and realign it. Remove any excess
epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold
the tube in alignment until the epoxy sets up.
❑ 11) Repeat steps # 1 through # 10 to install the
stabilator tube in the left side of the fuselage.
INSTALLING THE STABILATORS
❑ 15) Using a ruler and a modeling knife, carefully
cut off the corner of the stabilator at the two marks you
drew. See photo # 12 below.
Photo # 12
❑ 16) Slide one aluminum stabilator tube through the
nylon inserts in the right side of the fuselage.
❑ 17) Turn the fuselage upside down. Adjust the tube
so that its centerline is 3/4" away from the side of the
fuselage. See photo # 13 below.
Photo # 13
❑ 18) Hold one stabilator up to the aluminum tube and
align it. The leading edge should be even with the lead-
ing edge of the fuselage fairing and the root should be
pushed flush against the side of the fuselage.
❑ 19) When satisfied with the alignment, use a pencil
to outline the aluminum tube onto the bottom of the
stabilator. See photo # 14 below.
Photo # 14
❑ 20) Remove the stabilator and the aluminum tube.
Using a modeling knife, carefully cut away and remove
the foam from inside the outline that you drew. Remove
enough of the foam so that when the tube is pushed into
place, the centerline of the tube is even with the center-
line of the stabilator. See photo # 15 below.
Photo # 15
☛
Be careful not to cut through the top of the stabilator.
❑ 21) Push the stabilator tube into the groove and slide
stabilator assembly into place on the fuselage.
Photo # 11
11
❑ 22) Looking from the back of the fuselage, pivot
the stabilator so that it is centered, and look to see that it
is perpendicular to the fuselage side. The stabilator should
not be angled up or down. See figure # 1 below.
Figure # 1
❑ 23) After checking the alignment, remove the
stabilator assembly. Remove the stabilator tube and use
220 grit sandpaper to lightly sand only the gluing surface
of the aluminum tube.
☛
Sanding the aluminum tube will roughen the surface.
This will allow a better bond for the epoxy.
❑ 24) Mix a small quantity of Kwik Bond 5 Minute
Epoxy and apply a thin layer into the groove in the
stabilator. Push the aluminum tube into place and use a
paper towel and rubbing alcohol to remove any excess
epoxy that squeezes out of the joint.
❑ 25) Before the epoxy sets up, slide the stabilator as-
sembly back into place and realign it. Hold the stabilator
in place until the epoxy sets up. See photo # 16 below.
Photo # 16
❑ 26) After the epoxy sets up, remove the stabilator
assembly. Remove the protective backing from one piece
of stabilator reinforcement board and carefully adhere it
to the bottom of the stabilator. See photo # 17 below.
Photo # 17
❑ 27) Repeat steps # 14 through # 26 to install the
stabilator assembly on the left side of the fuselage.
❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy
❑ Excel Modeling Knife
❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑ Ruler
❑ Pencil
❑ Scissors
❑ Rubbing Alcohol
❑ Paper Towels
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups
ITEMS REQUIRED
❑ {2} Molded Foam Vertical Stabilizers
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
ALIGNING THE STABILIZERS
❑ 1) Using a modeling knife and a ruler, carefully cut
out the two molded foam vertical stabilizers along their
outer edges.
❑ 2) Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block,
sand the edges of both stabilizers smooth and straight,
being careful not to alter the molded angles.
❑ 3) Using a pair of scissors, cut out the vertical sta-
bilizer alignment template on page # 25. Using a pencil,
trace the template onto a piece of cardstock and use a pair
of scissors to cut that template out.
☛
The cardstock template will be used to help you glue
the vertical stabilizers at the proper angle.
❑ 4) Test fit one of the stabilizers into place using the
template to set the proper angle. The leading edge of the
stabilizer should be even with the front of the molded slot
in the top of the fuselage. See photo # 18 below.
Photo # 18
STABILIZER INSTALLATION
12
PAINTING THE AIRFRAME
❑ 2) When satisfied that the airframe is clean and dust-
free, carefully paint the camouflage using the photos on
page # 24 to guide you. Make sure to closely follow the
directions included with the paint you have chosen.
☛
The base of the stabilizer should fit firmly against the
top of the fuselage. There should be few or no gaps be-
tween the two. If there are any gaps, use 220 grit sandpaper
with a sanding block to carefully sand down the high spots
on the bottom of the stabilizer.
❑ 5) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 5 Minute
Epoxy and apply a thin layer to only the bottom of the
stabilizer, making sure to cover the entire gluing surface.
❑ 6) Set the stabilizer back into place and realign it
using the cardstock template. Remove any excess epoxy
that squeezes out of the joint using a paper towel and rub-
bing alcohol, and hold the stabilizer firmly in place until
the epoxy sets up.
❑ 7) Repeat steps # 4 through # 6 to align and install
the second stabilizer on the other side of the fuselage.
INSTALLING THE STABILIZERS
NOSE CONE INSTALLATION
❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy
❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑ Scissors
❑ Rubbing Alcohol
❑ Paper Towels
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups
ITEMS REQUIRED
❑ {1} Molded Plastic Nose Cone
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
TRIMMING THE NOSE CONE
❑ 1) Using a pair of scissors, cut away and remove
the plastic from around the base of the nose cone, making
sure to remove the molded radius. See photo # 19 below.
Photo # 19
❑ 2) Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block,
sand the base of the nose cone smooth and straight.
❑ 3) Mix a small quantity of Kwik Bond 5 Minute
Epoxy and apply a thin layer to the inside edge of the
nose cone. Push the nose cone into place on the front of
the fuselage and remove any excess epoxy using a paper
towel and rubbing alcohol. Hold the nose cone in place
until the epoxy sets up. See photo # 20 below.
Photo # 20
PAINTING THE F-22 RAPTOR EP
❑ Tack Rag
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
PREPARING THE SURFACE FOR PAINT
❑ 1) Remove any dust or debris by wiping down the
airframe using a tack rag. If you don't have a tack rag,
lightly vacuuming the surface will work well, too.
INSTALLING THE NOSE CONE
The F-22 Raptor EP comes prepainted with a light gray
base coat. You don't have to paint the camouflage, but
painting it does add more scale realism. We're not go-
ing to go into detail about how to paint - there are too
many different techniques - but keep this in mind:
whether you brush the paint or airbrush it, it is very
important that you apply a very, very light coat of paint.
The more paint you use the heavier the airplane will be.
It's also important to apply paint to a test piece first.
This will ensure that the paint you have chosen is com-
patible with the existing paint and the foam.
IMPORTANT
For compatibility issues we suggest only using acrylic
based paints.
13
SERVO INSTALLATION
❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy
❑ Excel Modeling Knife
❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑ Ruler
❑ Pencil
❑ Rubbing Alcohol
❑ Paper Towels
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups
ITEMS REQUIRED
❑ {1} 3mm Plywood Motor Plate
❑ {1} Double-Sided Tape
❑ {2} 4mm Thick Foam Spacers
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
INSTALLING THE MOTOR PLATE
❑ 1) Using 220 grit sandpaper, carefully sand any
paint from the area that the motor plate will be glued.
❑ 2) Mix a small quantity of Kwik Bond 5 Minute
Epoxy and apply a thin layer to one side of the plywood
plate. Set the plate into place, aligning the edges of the
plate with the top and the bottom of the fuselage. Re-
move any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing
alcohol, and hold the plate firmly in place until the epoxy
sets up. See photo # 21 below.
Photo # 21
INSTALLING THE SERVOS
❑ 3) Using a modeling knife, cut out four pieces of
double-sided tape the same size as the two foam spacers.
☛
The servos are installed on the back of the fuselage
with the servo output shafts facing down and toward the
outside. Make sure you make both a right and a left.
Photo # 22
❑ 6) Using a ruler and a pencil, measure down 11/16"
from the fuselage mold line and draw a line parallel to it.
See photo # 23 below.
Photo # 23
☛
Note that there is no camouflage painted on the bot-
tom of the airplane.
❑ 4) Working with one servo for now, stick one piece
of double-sided tape onto one side of the servo.
❑ 5) Stick one foam spacer onto the double-sided tape
that is on the servo, then stick the second piece of double-
sided tape onto the foam spacer. See photo # 22 below.
❑ 7) Remove the protective backing from the double-
sided tape and carefully stick the servo assembly firmly
into place. The center of the servo output shaft should be
lined up with the line you drew and the bottom of the
servo should be pushed up against the edge of the motor
plate. See photo # 24 below.
Photo # 24
❑ 8) Repeat steps # 4 through # 7 to install the second
servo onto the other side of the fuselage.
❑ 9) Attach one servo extension to each servo lead.
Slide the two extension leads through the precut hole in
the fuselage and into the radio bay. Push the servo wires
down into the precut slots in the motor plate.
14
MOTOR INSTALLATION
❑ #1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑ Hand or Electric Drill
❑ 1/16" Drill Bit
❑ Pencil
ITEMS REQUIRED
❑ {1} 370 Size Motor w/Pinion Gear
❑ {1} Molded Gear Box Front w/Bushings
❑ {1} Molded Gear Box Back
❑ {1} Propeller Shaft w/Nylon Gear
❑ {5} 3mm x 9mm Wood Screws
❑ {1} 3mm x 10mm Self-Tapping Screw
❑ {1} Prebent Wire Tail Skid
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
ASSEMBLING THE GEAR BOX
❑ 1) Slide the propeller shaft through the two prein-
stalled bushings in the front gear box half and push it
forward until the nylon gear is up against the back of the
gear box.
❑ 2) Slide the motor into place, making sure that the
pinion gear engages the nylon gear on the propeller shaft.
❑ 3) Slide the back half of the gear box over the back
of the motor and use two 3mm x 9mm wood screws and
one 3mm x 10mm self tapping screw to secure the two
halves together. The two wood screws should be in-
stalled in the two lower mounting holes and the self
tapping screw should be installed in the upper mounting
hole. See photo # 25 below.
Photo # 25
☛
It is normal for there to be front-to-back play in the
propeller shaft.
INSTALLING THE MOTOR ASSEMBLY
❑ 4) Slide the two motor wires into the precut hole in
the fuselage and push the motor assembly up against the
plywood motor plate.
Photo # 26
❑ 6) Remove the motor assembly and set it aside.
Using a drill with a 1/16" drill bit, drill pilot holes through
the motor plate at each of the three marks you drew.
❑ 7) Press the wire tail skid into the molded groove in
the back of the gear box assembly.
☛
If you are going to use the optional landing gear on
your F-22 Raptor EP, do not install the wire tail skid.
❑ 8) Slide the motor assembly back into place, mak-
ing sure that the back of the gear box does not pinch the
two servo leads. Install and tighten three 3mm x 9mm
wood screws to hold the motor assembly securely in place.
PUSHROD INSTALLATION
❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy
❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑ Hand or Electric Drill
❑ 1/16" Drill Bit
❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑ Pencil
❑ Rubbing Alcohol
❑ Paper Towels
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups
ITEMS REQUIRED
❑ {2} Nylon Actuator Arms
❑ {4} Prebent Pull-Pull Rods
❑ {2} Nylon Stabilator Retainers
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
INSTALLING THE STABILATORS
❑ 1) Working with one stabilator for now, slide it into
place and align it. There should be no more than a 1/16"
gap between the inside edge of the stabilator and the side
of the fuselage.
❑ 5) Center the motor over the hole in the motor plate
and use a pencil to mark the locations of the three mount-
ing holes. See photo # 26 below.
15
Photo # 27
❑ 3) Remove the stabilator from the fuselage. Using
220 grit sandpaper, lightly sand only the portion of the
aluminum tube beyond the mark you drew.
☛
Sanding the tube will roughen the surface. This will
make the epoxy adhere to the aluminum much better. Do
not omit this step.
❑ 4) Slide the stabilator back into place and realign
it. While holding the stabilator in place, slide one nylon
retainer over the end of the aluminum tube and push it up
against the nylon sleeve.
❑ 5) Mix a small quantity of Kwik Bond 5 Minute
Epoxy and apply a couple of drops of epoxy to the joint
between the nylon retainer and the aluminum tube. Re-
move any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing
alcohol, and allow the epoxy to set up before proceeding.
See photo # 28 below.
Photo # 28
☛
The nylon retainer will prevent the stabilator from
sliding out during flight.
❑ 6) Repeat steps # 1 through # 5 to install the second
stabilator on the other side of the fuselage.
INSTALLING THE PUSHRODS
❑ 7) Locate one "dual arm" servo horn for your servo.
Using a drill with a 1/16" drill bit, enlarge the two holes
that are 5/16" out from the center of the horn.
Photo # 29
❑ 9) Plug both servos and the ESC into their proper
slots in the receiver. Plug the flight battery into the ESC
and turn on the radio system. Center the servos using the
trim levers on the transmitter.
❑ 10) Attach the servo horn to one servo, making sure
that the servo horn is centered. Install and tighten the
servo horn retaining screw, provided with your servo, to
secure the servo horn into place.
❑ 11) Carefully slide the nylon actuator arm over the
end of the aluminum tube and align it. The side of the
nylon arm should be even with the end of the aluminum
tube. See photo # 30 below.
❑ 2) While holding the stabilator in place, use a pen-
cil to draw a mark on the aluminum tube where it and the
nylon insert meet. See photo # 27 below.
❑ 8) Install the two prebent pull-pull rods into the
holes that you enlarged in the servo horn and into the holes
in the nylon actuator arm. Orientate the parts as shown.
See photo # 29 below.
Photo # 30
❑ 12) When satisfied with the alignment, remove the
actuator arm and mix a small quantity of Kwik Bond 5
Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the end of
the aluminum tube, only where the actuator arm will be
glued into place.
❑ 13) Slide the actuator arm back into place and re-
align it. Before the epoxy sets up, carefully center the
stabilator. The leading edge of the stabilator should be
lined up with the mold line on the side of the fuselage.
When satisfied with the alignment, hold the stabilator
aligned until the epoxy sets up.
❑ 14) Repeat steps # 7 through # 13 to install the
second stabilator pushrod assembly.
16
Photo # 31
INSTALLING THE CANOPY
Photo # 32
TRIMMING THE MOTOR COVER
❑ 6) Using a pair of scissors, carefully cut out the
parts of the motor cover that prevent it from fitting over
both the gear box and the aluminum stabilator tubes. See
photo # 33 below.
Photo # 33
❑ 7) Slide the motor cover into place and align it. The
cover should be centered between the fuselage sides and
the front edges of it should overlap the back edges of the
fuselage about 1/16".
❑ 8) When satisfied with the fit, remove the motor
cover. Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block,
sand the edges of the cover smooth and straight.
❑ 9) Slide the motor cover back into place and realign
it. Use four 2mm x 5mm wood screws, threaded into the
edges of the plywood motor plate (use two on the top and
two on the bottom), to hold the motor cover securely in
place. Make sure to drill pilot holes before installing the
screws. See photo # 34 below.
Photo # 34
CANOPY & MOTOR COVER
❑ Excel Modeling Knife
❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑ Hand or Electric Drill
❑ 1/16" Drill Bit
❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑ Pencil
❑ Scissors
ITEMS REQUIRED
❑ {1} Molded Plastic Motor Cover
❑ {1} Molded Plastic Canopy
❑ {6} 2mm x 5mm Wood Screws
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
TRIMMING THE CANOPY
❑ 1) Using a pair of scissors, carefully cut out the
canopy along the molded scribe line. Using 220 grit sand-
paper with a sanding block, carefully sand the edges of
the canopy smooth and straight.
❑ 2) Using a modeling knife, carefully cut out the
air-intake and the air-exit holes in the front and the back
of the canopy. Use the molded scribe lines as a guide.
See photo # 31 below.
❑ 3) Set the canopy onto the fuselage and align it.
When aligned properly the canopy should be centered over
the cockpit (looking at it from the front) and the front
edge of the canopy should be about 3-1/4" behind the front
of the nose cone.
❑ 4) When satisfied with the alignment, use a drill with
a 1/16" drill bit to drill two pilot holes, through only the
canopy, for the two mounting screws. Make sure the holes
are low enough so that the wood screws will thread com-
pletely into the reinforcement board.
❑ 5) Install and tighten two 2mm x 5mm wood screws,
using a # 0 phillips screwdriver, to hold the canopy firmly
in place. See photo # 32 below.
17
OPTIONAL LANDING GEAR
❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy
❑ Kwik Bond Thick C/A
❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑ 1/16" Hex Wrench
❑ Hand or Electric Drill
❑ 1/16" Drill Bit
❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑ Ruler
❑ Pencil
❑ Rubbing Alcohol
❑ Paper Towels
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups
ITEMS REQUIRED
❑ {1} Prebent Nose Gear Wire
❑ {2} Prebent Main Gear Wires
❑ {3} 40mm Diameter Wheels
❑ {3} Wheel Collars w/Set Screws
❑ {4} 3mm x 9mm Wood Screws
❑ {4} 3mm Flat Washers
❑ {1} Brass Nose Gear Bracket w/Set Screw
❑ {2} 3mm x 25mm x 30mm Plywood Plates
❑ {1} 3mm x 20mm x 23mm Plywood Plate
❑ {1} 3mm x 20mm x 30mm Plywood Plate w/Hole
❑ {2} 3mm Plywood Angled Plates
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
INSTALLING THE MAIN GEAR
❑ 1) Test fit one 3mm x 25mm x 30mm plywood plate
onto the fuselage. When properly aligned, the bottom
edge of the plate should be even with the bottom of the
fuselage and the front edge of the plate should be even
with the back edge of the molded groove in the fuselage
side. See photo # 35 below.
Photo # 35
❑ 2) While holding the plywood plate in place, use a
pencil to carefully outline the location of the plate onto
the fuselage side.
❑ 3) Remove the plate and set it aside. Using 220 grit
sandpaper, carefully sand away the paint from inside the
outline you drew.
☛
Removing the paint from the gluing surface will make
a better bond for the epoxy.
❑ 4) Mix a small quantity of Kwik Bond 5 Minute
Epoxy and apply a thin layer to one side of the plywood
plate. Set the plate back into place and realign it. Use a
paper towel and rubbing alcohol to remove any excess
epoxy, and hold the plate in place until the epoxy sets up.
❑ 5) After the epoxy has cured, hold one main land-
ing gear strut up against the plywood plate. Center the
strut and use a pencil to mark the locations of the two
mounting screws. See photo # 36 below.
Photo # 36
☛
Notice that the "loop" should face toward the back of
the fuselage.
❑ 6) Remove the strut and set it aside. Using a drill
with a 1/16" drill bit, drill pilot holes through the ply-
wood plate at the two marks you drew.
❑ 7) Install the landing gear strut using two 3mm x
9mm wood screws and two 3mm flat washers. Tighten
the screws firmly to hold the strut securely in place. See
photo # 37 below.
Photo # 37
❑ 8) Repeat steps # 1 through # 7 to install the main
landing gear strut on the other side of the fuselage.
18
INSTALLING THE NOSE GEAR
❑ 9) Using Kwik Bond Thick C/A, glue the remain-
ing plywood pieces together into the configuration shown.
See photo # 38 below.
Photo # 38
❑ 10) Install the brass nose gear bracket into the pre-
drilled hole in the plywood nose gear mount. Tighten the
two nuts firmly to secure the bracket firmly in place. See
photo # 39 below.
Photo # 39
❑ 11) Mix a small quantity of Kwik Bond 5 Minute
Epoxy and apply a thin layer to the back of the plywood
nose gear mount.
❑ 12) Set the nose gear mount into place and align it.
To align the mount properly it should be centered between
the sides of the hatch, and the top of the mount should be
3/8" below the molded hatch lip. Also make sure that the
top of the mount is parallel to the bottom of the fuselage.
See photo # 40 below.
Photo # 40
❑ 13) When satisfied with the alignment, remove any
excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol,
and hold the mount in place until the epoxy sets up.
❑ 14) Slide the wheels onto the landing gear axles
and use three wheel collars to hold the wheels in place.
Check to make sure that the wheels spin without bind-
ing, then tighten the set screws firmly to secure the wheel
collars into place.
❑ 15) Slide the nose gear wire into the brass nose gear
bracket. Adjust the height of the wire so that the airplane
sits level. When satisfied with the alignment, tighten the
set screw in the bracket using a 1/16" hex wrench.
☛
Because the nose gear is not steerable, make sure it is
aligned straight ahead so that the airplane will track straight
on the runway.
☛
Make sure that the nose of the airplane is not angled
down. If the nose is angled down it will be difficult for
the airplane to rotate during the takeoff roll. Ideally the
nose should be level or 1º to 2º up.
FINAL ASSEMBLY
❑ Excel Modeling Knife
❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑ Adjustable Wrench
❑ Needle Nose Pliers
❑ Wire Cutters
❑ Scissors
❑ K&S 30 Watt Soldering Iron
❑ Kester Solder
ITEMS REQUIRED
❑ {1} Double-Sided Tape
❑ {1} Decal Sheet
❑ {1} 7.5 x 5 Nylon Propeller
❑ {3} 3mm Hex Nuts
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
INSTALLING THE PROPELLER
❑ 1) Thread one 3mm hex nut onto the propeller shaft
as far as it will go.
❑ 2) Slide the propeller onto the propeller shaft back-
wards (with the molded hex shape toward the back of the
airplane) and push it up against the hex nut.
☛
The propeller is installed backward because the mo-
tor runs in reverse. This allows you to use a standard
propeller and not a special pusher propeller.
❑ 3) Partially thread a second 3mm hex nut onto the
propeller shaft. Pull the propeller up over the hex nut (the
molded hex shape fits over the hex nut) and spin the
19
Photo # 41
❑ 4) Thread the remaining 3mm hex nut onto the pro-
peller shaft and tighten it up against the propeller using
an adjustable wrench. This nut will act as a jam nut to
prevent the propeller from coming loose.
INSTALLING THE RECEIVER
❑ 5) Mount the receiver on the fuselage floor in the
back of the airplane. Use a small piece of double-sided
tape to hold it in place. See photo # 42 below.
Photo # 42
☛
Orientate the receiver so that the antenna exits toward
the front of the fuselage.
❑ 6) Uncoil the receiver antenna and secure it to the
sides of the hatch using several pieces of Scotch
®
tape.
See photo # 43 below.
Photo # 43
☛
Make sure that the antenna does not cross over itself.
If this happens it will greatly decrease the range of the
radio system. Under no circumstances should you cut the
antenna shorter.
propeller into place to tighten the nut. Use a pair of needle
nose pliers to keep the first hex nut from turning while
you tighten the propeller. See photo # 41 below.
INSTALLING THE ESC
❑ 7) Carefully solder the motor leads from the ESC
to the motor leads on the motor, making sure to use heat
shrink tubing to insulate the solder joints. Plug the throttle
lead into the proper slot in the receiver.
❑ 8) Mount the ESC to the fuselage floor using a small
piece of double-sided tape to hold it firmly in place. See
photo # 44 below.
Photo # 44
☛
Depending on the length of the battery leads on your
particular ESC, you may need to solder an extension to
them so that the battery connector will reach the cockpit.
INSTALLING THE FLIGHT BATTERY
❑ 9) Remove the canopy and set it aside. Using a
modeling knife, cut a hole into the back of the cockpit
floor as shown. This hole will allow you to access the
battery connector. See photo # 45 below.
Photo # 45
❑ 10) Push the battery connector from the ESC up
through the hole in the cockpit. The battery should be
installed on its side and can be moved forward or back-
ward to balance the airplane. Once the proper location
has been found, use a short length of Dubro Hook & Loop
Material, adhered to the edge of the battery and to the
bottom of the cockpit, to hold the flight battery in place.
☛
You will need to remove the canopy to install fresh
flight batteries at the flying field.
❑ 11) Set the foam hatch cover onto the fuselage and
push it down flush with the bottom of the fuselage. Use a
couple of pieces of Scotch
®
tape to hold it in place.
20
APPLYING THE DECALS
❑ 12) Using a clean cloth, wipe the airframe down
completely to remove any dust and debris.
❑ 13) Working with one decal at a time, use a pair of
scissors and carefully cut out the decal along its outer
edges.
❑ 14) Remove the protective backing from the decal
and stick the decal to the airplane (use the photos on page
# 24 to position the decals). Lightly rub the decal with a
soft cloth to remove any trapped air from beneath it.
☛
If any air bubbles form in the decal you can "prick"
the bubble with a straight pin to release the air.
❑ 15) Repeat the steps above to install the remaining
decals. Rub each decal down thoroughly to adhere them
into place.
☛
If you have installed the optional landing gear, you
will need to use a modeling knife to cut a notch in the
front of the hatch cover so it does not interfere with the
nose gear strut.
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
BALANCING
❑ Ruler
❑ Pencil
BALANCING THE F-22 RAPTOR EP
❑ 1) It is critical that your airplane be balanced cor-
rectly. Improper balance will cause your airplane to either
perform poorly or to lose control and crash.
This location is recommended for initial test flying. The
C.G. can be moved fore or aft up to 1/4", but it is not
recommended that the C.G. be located any farther back
than 4-1/8" behind the leading edge of the wing, at the
fuselage sides.
The Center of Gravity is located 3-7/8"
back from the leading edge of the
wing, at the fuselage sides.
☛
The F-22 Raptor EP should be balanced with the flight
battery mounted in the cockpit.
❑ 2) Using a pencil, mark the location of the Center
of Gravity on both sides of the fuselage.
❑ 3) With the airplane right side up, place your fin-
gers on the two marks you drew and carefully lift the
airplane. If the nose of the airplane falls, the airplane is
nose heavy. To correct this, move the flight battery back
just far enough to bring the airplane into balance. If the
tail of the airplane falls, the airplane is tail heavy. To
correct this, move the flight battery forward just far
enough to bring the airplane into balance. When bal-
anced correctly, the airplane should sit level or slightly
nose down when you lift it up with your fingers.
☛
Once you have flown and become familiar with the
flight characteristics of the F-22 Raptor EP, the balance
point (C.G.) can be moved fore or aft up to 1/4" in each
direction to change the flight performance. Moving the
balance point back will cause the airplane to be more re-
sponsive, but less stable. Moving the balance point
forward will cause the airplane to be more stable, but less
responsive. Do not fly the F-22 Raptor EP beyond the
recommended balance range or an uncontrollable
crash could result!
CONTROL THROWS
❑ 1) We recommend setting up the F-22 Raptor EP us-
ing the control throws listed below. We list control throw
recommendations for both test flying and sport flying (on
next page). Use the test flying settings for your initial flights.
TEST FLYING
Pitch: 3/8" up 3/8" down
Roll: 1/2" up 1/2" down
The stabilators are coupled so that they produce both
pitch control (elevator) and roll control (ailerons).
These are referred to as "tailerons".
The control throws should be measured
at the LEADING EDGE of the stabilators.
Do not measure from the trailing edge.
IMPORTANT
Before setting the control throws you must set the
stabilator neutral point. To set the neutral point the
leading edge of each stabilator should be 1/8" below
the mold line on the fuselage. All control throws should
be measured from the stabilator neutral point.
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