AeroWorks Katana S Assembly Manual

Brand: AeroWorks

Model: Katana S

Category: Toys & accessories

Type: Assembly Manual

AeroWorks Katana S is a high-quality aircraft designed for aerobatic performance. Its lightweight yet durable construction, combined with its 84-inch wingspan and 1270 square inch wing area, provides stability and maneuverability. The aircraft is powered by a 3.2-4.2 c.i. (50-60 c.c.) engine and requires a 24-ounce fuel tank. Its impressive 16 to 18-pound weight range allows for customization and the addition of accessories and hardware packages available through Aeroworks.

29% KATANA ARF

ASSEMBLY MANUAL

Required but not included Aircraft Specifications:

4 channel radio and supporting equipment Wing Span 84”

Engine 3.2-4.2 c.i. (50-60 c.c.) Wing Area 1270 Sq. in.

Fuel Tank 24 ounce Length 75”

Spinner 3 ½” Weight 16 to 18 pounds

Hardware

Accessories and hardware packages available through Aeroworks

Congratulations! You have just become the owner of one of the highest quality airplanes in the industry.

Aeroworks uses only hand selected balsa wood and the highest quality light ply and hardwood available.

All fiberglass parts are hand crafted and inspected for imperfections. We have designed the 29% Katana

to be lightweight, yet strong enough to handle the aerobatic forces expected from a high performance

airplane.

Thank you for purchasing the 29% Katana ARF. We wish you great success in both the assembly and

flying of your fully aerobatic airplane. If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to call.

Aeroworks:

Phone: (303) 366-4205

Fax: (303) 366-4203

Or write to: Aeroworks

401 Laredo Unit “D”

Aurora, Co. 80011

Visit the Web: www.aero-works.net

Or E-mail us: [email protected]

Before starting the assembly process of your new 29% Katana ARF, Please read through the assembly

manual carefully, and inspect all parts and any hardware for imperfections or damage.

It is important to notify Aeroworks of any damage or problems with the model

immediately. If you wish

to return this aircraft for any reason a 15% restock fee will be charged to the customer. In addition the

customer is responsible for all return shipping cost and all prior-shipping costs will not be refunded.

Aeroworks cannot insure the skill of the modeler in the construction or use of this aircraft. Therefore, will

not be accountable for any property damage, bodily injury or death caused by this aircraft.

The purchaser also accepts all responsibility of any and all structural or

mechanical failures.

EQUIPMENT REQUIREMENTS

AILERONS: (2) Servo’s: 70 Ounce minimum, two per wing. You may select to use only one servo per

wing panel. If you do, you will need to place it in the servo slot toward the root end of the wing and you

must use a 130-ounce minimum servo. Digital metal-geared servos are highly recommended. If you

select the two-servo option, digital and metal-geared servos are not required.

ELEVATORS: (2) Servo’s: 70 Ounce minimum one per stab. Digital and metal-geared servos are

not required. However are recommended. Especially if you plan on doing 3-D style maneuvers.

RUDDER: (1) Servo: 100 ounce or higher recommended. Push-pull system located in rear of fuselage,

or a pull-pull system in radio compartment. A digital metal-geared servo is not required, but highly

recommended. If you select to use a pull-pull system, it is recommended that you use a high torque servo

130-ounce minimum. The decision of using a push-pull system versus a pull-pull system will depend on

aircraft balance. Try to use the rudder servo to help achieve the correct C.G. location. Most 50 cc engines

will require you to use the pull-pull method for proper aircraft balance.

THROTTLE: (1) Servo: A high torque servo is not necessary, 48-ounce minimum. However, a

reliable and fast servo is recommended.

RECEIVER BATTERY: We recommend you use a 1700 MA 6 volt pack.

SWITCHES AND WIRING: It is important to use heavy gage wire (22 gauge) for all switches,

batteries, and extensions.

FUEL TANK AND LINE: Use a 24 oz. fuel tank with large diameter size fuel line. Gas will cause

fuel lines to swell and come off brass fuel tubing. Be certain to always tie down your fuel lines with clips

or wire. It is also recommended to solder a barb onto the brass tubing for extra security.

RECEIVER: The use of a PCM receiver is recommended.

TIGHTENING AND RE-SHRINKING THE COVERING

Open your kit slowly and take care not to damage any parts of the kit. Remove all parts from their plastic

protective covers for inspection.

Before doing any assembly or installation of any decals it is very important to re-shrink or re-tighten the

already applied Ultracote covering. Due to the shipping process, heat and humidity changes from different

climates, the covering may become lose and wrinkle in the sun. If you take the time to re-tighten the

covering, you will be rewarded with a long lasting beautifully covered model.

Using you’re covering iron or heat gun with a soft sock, gently apply pressure and rub in the covering. If

any bubbles occur, your iron may be to hot, reduce heat and work slowly. If bubbles persist, using a small

pin, punch holes in the bubble to relieve trapped air and reheat. We do not recommend using a heat gun

on any of the foam surfaces. Too much heat on one area may cause the foam to melt underneath the

wood.

After you have tightened up the covering, it is time to start the assembly of your Katana.

FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY

With a sharp Xacto knife remove covering from wing and stab tube holes. Remove covering from stab

and wing anti-rotation holes. Remove covering from aileron servo wire access slot in fuse and rudder

servo cut outs in the rear of the fuselage (If you are putting the rudder servo in the tail). If you are using a

lightweight engine you may select to install the rudder servo in the radio compartment using a pull-pull

system. It is recommended you check your C.G. prior to installing the rudder servo. Most 50 cc engines

will require the use of a pull-pull system.

WING ASSEMBLY

1) Locate the pre cut hinge slots in the wing and aileron. The model comes with CA style hinges pre

installed, but not glued into the control surfaces. If you wish to use the CA hinges we recommend

adding additional hinges to each surface and use thin CA when gluing in hinges. We have used the

CA type hinges with no problems. However, we highly encourage the builder to use the nylon pinned

style hinge, such as the Dubro ¼ scale hinge. You will have to enlarge the hinge slot to accommodate

the nylon hinge. Check surfaces for alignment and glue hinges into the control surfaces. We

recommend using slow set epoxy or hinge glue. Be certain to give yourself plenty of aileron throw.

Recommended throw is 35 degrees minimum up and down. We also recommend using Ultracote to

seal all control surfaces. (Stronger after market CA hinges available through Aeroworks.)

2) Locate servo location on bottom side of wings and remove covering. Attach servo extension leads to

your servo. Tie the pre-installed nylon string to your servo and pull the servo wire through the wing.

Install servo into wings. It is important to secure the servo connectors with tape, wire or after market

clip to be certain the leads do not disconnect.

3) Locate hardwood blocks pre installed in the ailerons. Drill and tap the control horn locations for an

8/32 bolt. Install the control horns so your linkage will be 90 degrees to the servo arm. We

recommend using the Nelson Hobby control horn assembly #RCL70 available through Aeroworks.

Do not counter sink bolt heads. The hard point is a plywood plate. If you counter sink head

you may drill through plate.

CONTROL

HORN

Drill and tap

for 8-32 bolt

4) When setting up the servo linkage, we recommend using 4-40 rod with a silver solder clevis. It is

very important to have all control linkages 90 degrees to the control surface and servo arm. If more

throw is required then the silver solder clevis will allow, we recommend using a Dubro swivel ball

link at the servo arm for more movement.

SILVER SOLDER

CLEVIS

SERVO ARM AND CONTROL HORN AT 90 DEGREE

5) It is best to have the linkage as far in on the servo arm as possible and as far away from the control

surface as possible. If you are setting up the plane for 3D style flying. We recommend using larger

after market servo arms. It is important not to be closer then 3/4” from the control surface with your

control horn. If you get to close to the control surface you may develop flutter. Special note:

Remember to center all servos prior to connecting linkages to servo. This will eliminate any binding

when the radio is turned on.

6) Locate the hardwood dowel for the wing retainer bolt, located on the bottom of each wing. Pre drill a

1/8” hole into the center of the dowel for the wing retainer bolt.

7) Slide aluminum tube through fuse and center in the fuse. Secure tube in fuse so tube cannot move. A

hose clamp works well for this. Slide one wing panel onto tube and push tight against the fuse.

8) Make sure tube is still centered in fuse.

9) Drill and tap aluminum tube and dowel for 6-32 bolt.

Wing

retainer

dowel

location

10) Slide on second wing panel and repeat process. Make sure wings are tight against fuse.

11) Leaving the aluminum tube in one wing panel, with wing retainer bolt secured, at all times, will

enable you to always find the tapped hole for the bolt.

STAB AND ELEVATOR ASSEMBLY

1) Locate the pre cut hinge slots in the stab and elevator. The model comes with CA style hinges pre

installed, but not glued into the control surfaces. If you wish to use the CA hinges we recommend

adding hinges to each surface and use thin CA when gluing in hinges. We have used the CA type

hinges with no problems, however we highly encourage the builder to use the nylon pinned style

hinge, such as the Klett ¼ scale. Check surfaces for alignment and glue hinges into the control

surfaces. We recommend using slow set epoxy or hinge glue. Be certain to give yourself plenty of

elevator throw. Recommended throw is 45 degrees minimum up and down. We recommend sealing

all surfaces with Ultracote.

hinges

Seal all hinge gaps

with Ultracote

covering

2) Locate servo location on bottom side of stabs and remove covering. (One per stab) It will be

necessary for you to install the servo stand offs included with the kit. This will prevent the servo from

bottoming out in the stab. You will have to trim away some of the excess sheeting to accommodate

the stand offs. Place the servo in the slot to determine the location of the stand off. Once you have the

proper position, epoxy the stand offs into position. Using the preinstalled nylon servo wire attachment

string, pull servo leads through stab. You want to have the male end of the servo extension hanging

out the stab and the female end hanging out from the fuse. This will enable you to remove the stabs

easily when necessary. It works best to run one elevator servo extension into the elevator port of the

receiver and the other into an Aux port of the receiver designated by your radio manufacture. If you

do not have a radio capable of splitting the elevators into two different channels, it is possible to use a

“Y” reverser and plug both servos into the elevator port in the receiver. Install servo into stabs. It is

important to secure the servo connectors with tape, wire or after market clip to be certain the leads do

not disconnect.

It may be necessary

to trim balsa sheeting

to accommodate

servo stand offs

Glue stab support blocks

in place. Make sure that

servo fits in slo

3) Locate hardwood blocks pre installed in the elevators. Drill and tap block for control horn locations

for a 8/32 bolt. Install the control horns so your linkage will be 90 degrees to the servo arm. We

recommend using the Nelson control horn assembly #RCL70. DO NOT counter sink bolt head.

Use flush mount bolt

4) When setting up the servo linkage we recommend using 4-40 rod with a silver solder clevis. It is very

important to have all control linkages 90 degrees to the control surface and servo arm. If more throw

is required then the silver solder clevis will allow, we recommend using a Dubro swivel ball link at

the servo arm for more movement.

5) It is best to have the linkage as far in on the servo arm as possible and as far away from the control

surface as possible. If you are setting up the plane for 3D style flying. We recommend using larger

after market servo arms. It is important not to be closer then 3/4” from the control surface with your

control horn. If you get to close to the control surface you may develop flutter. Special note:

Remember to center all servos prior to connecting linkages to servo. This will eliminate any binding

when the radio is turned on.

6) Slide aluminum tube through fuse and center tube in fuse. Secure one end of tube in fuse so tube

cannot move. Slide one stab panel onto tube and push tight against fuse.

TAP FOR

4-40

BOLT

MEASURE

EQUAL

DISTANCE

Retainer dowel

location is close

to tip end of

aluminum tube

7) Locate the hardwood retainer dowel for the 4-40 stab retainer bolt, located on the bottom side of each

stab. Drill pilot hole through hardwood dowel and into aluminum tube. Then, drill and tap retainer

dowel, aluminum tube and dowel inside tube for 4-40 bolt. Secure stab to tube with 4-40 bolt, then

slide other stab onto tube and repeat retainer bolt installation. Be certain both stabs are tight against

fuse.

8) Leaving the aluminum tube in one stab panel, with stab retainer bolt secured, at all times will enable

you to always find the tapped hole for the bolt.

ENGINE BOX ASSEMBLY

1) Cut 1/8” ply engine box sides to correct length to accommodate your engine size (Be sure to cut

from front of engine box sides) An easy way to determine the correct length of box sides is to slide

the cowl just past Former F1 approximately 1/8”. Measure from front of former F1 to front of the

cowl. Now measure the length of your engine. Subtract the engine length from your first

measurement. This should be the required length for your engine box sides. It is always a good idea

to cut the engine box sides slightly shorter then needed, approximately ½”. This will allow you to

make adjustments by adding spacers between firewall and engine. Adding a spacer will also allow

for the rear cylinder to be spaced away from the firewall to allow for better cooling. *Be certain to

check sides, one is longer then the other, this will give you the correct amount of right thrust.

Measure from F1 to end of cowl to get correct box length

2) Slide engine box sides through former F1, slide notch of engine box sides into former F2. Square

sides to former F1. Using epoxy, glue sides to F1, F2 and fuse floor.

Hole in

firewall to

accommodate

rear intake

style engine.

3) Epoxy plywood firewall to the inside of the engine box sides and flush with the bottom of sides.

4) Cut 1/8” lite-ply engine box floor to correct length. The floor should rest on bottom of sides and

firewall and butt up next to former F1.

5) Epoxy engine box floor to the bottom of sides, firewall, and front of former F1. Be certain to square

all parts to former F1.

6) Use 3/8” balsa tri-stock reinforcement at all glue joints. Behind firewall reinforce glue joint with 3/8”

spruce tri stock.

FIN AND RUDDER ASSEMBLY

1) Locate the hardwood block pre installed in the rudder for the control horn. Drill and tap for 8-32 all

thread. Install all thread into rudder and secure with flat washer and nut on each side. You should

have approximately 1” of bolt on each side of the rudder for the mounting of the control horns. Use

thread lock to secure.

Pictures are

of different

model but

procedure is

the same

2) Trail fit fin to fuse. Remove fin. Apply epoxy to all surfaces to be glued. Slide fin into the fuse.

Use tape to hold in place while assembly dries.

Epoxy fin

to fuselage

Pictures are

of different

model but

procedure is

the same

Remove

covering

from glue

areas

3) Locate pre cut hinge locations and glue hinges into fin and rudder as you did with the elevator.

LANDING GEAR

1) Drill or tap axle hole in gear to fit your axle. We recommend 5/32” dia. Axle. Note: This step may

already be done.

2) Install axles using thread lock or lock nut.

3) Draw a centerline, front to back, down both aluminum landing gear and ply mounting plate.

4) Align center marks.

”

5) With gear centered on center line and 2” back from Former F1, drill four equally spaced holes

through gear and mounting plate, two front and two back, to accommodate 10-32 bolts Note:

Aluminum gear may come pre-drilled, if so, use aluminum gear as a template. Use 10/32 bolts and

blind nuts to attach gear to mounting block. Special note: Use thread lock on all Gear bolts.

TAIL WHEEL

1) Locate tail wheel steering hard point towards bottom of rudder. Drill a hole big enough for 4-40 rod

to slide through.

2) Slide rod through rudder center rod and epoxy in place. Attach strip aileron horns to ends of rods.

Make sure rod sticks out 1” on each side.

3) Use springs to attach tail wheel to strip aileron horns

4) You may also mount rudder servo in the tail and use the 4-40 rudder push rod for tail wheel steering.

To do this, use one strip aileron horn and a 4-40 pushrod with a solder on clevis as shown.

Epoxy in place

Strip aileron horn

CANOPY/HATCH INSTALLATION

1) For your convenience, your canopy has been pre cut and trim painted to fit the hatch cover.

2) Trial fit canopy to hatch cover. Do all painting/prep work, dash panels and pilot installation prior to

gluing canopy. Note: We recommend you remove the covering from the cockpit floor location. We

use an automotive trunk spatter spray paint (Grey) and paint the floor location to complete a finished

look.

3) Glue canopy to hatch cover. We recommend using canopy glue.

ENGINE / COWL INSTALLATION

It is first recommended to install engine per manufactures recommendations.

Engine thrust line is 1 ¾” down from top of fuse box sides. 2 degrees of right thrust and 0 degrees of

down thrust. It will be necessary to offset the engine to the left (pilot view) 3/8” to compensate for right

thrust. This will allow the center of the engine to exit at the center of the cowl.

Measure Engine

thrust line 1 1/4”

down from top of

ox sides

Offset center

of engine 3/8”

to compensate

for right thrust

Firewall

Centerline

1) Fit cowl to fuse cutting out where needed to accommodate engine. Remember to fit cowl over fuse

1/8”.

2) When fitting cowl to fuse. Use a 3 ½” spinner to ensure proper alignment with spinner plate of cowl.

3) When satisfied with fit drill two 1/8” holes through each side of cowl and into cowl mount blocks.

Approximately ¼” from rear of cowl. Note: The cowl mount blocks are not shown in the picture.

To help achieve proper C.G., mount engine as far forward as possible.

4) Use 4-40 bolts and blind nuts to attach cowl to fuse. NOTE: We recommend using metal/rubber

washer to secure bolt.

Metal

washer

with

rubber

backing

7) Engine thrust line is 1 ¾” down from top of fuse box sides and 3/8” to the left (pilot view) of a

vertical centerline.

ine shown is a Desert Aircraft 50cc

CANISTER MUFFLER INSTALLATION

(OPTIONAL)

Note: If you are not going to install canister mufflers, do not cut the covering from the bottom of the

airplane. You must still attach bottom hatch cover with 4 4-40 bolts and blind nuts, but you do not need

to do anything else.

Instructions below show typical 100cc engine canister installation. The 50cc engine installation and

pipe installation will be similar. Except with the 50cc, you will only have one canister muffler.

1) Cut covering from air exit hole behind the bottom hatch.

2) Install exhaust headers and make sure that they are aligned in the center of the tunnel.

3) Remove headers and attach to pipes, slide into tunnel.

4) Remount headers to engine and check for alignment.

5) Install canister mounts through hatch opening. (Canister muffler mounts are supplied through engine

manufacture and do not come with airplane.)

6) Attach pipe mounts with 3 4-40 bolts and blind nuts to former 2.

7) Install hatch with 4 4-40 bolts and blind nuts.

Make sure pipes are

centered in fuse and

are strai

Remove

covering from

air exit hole

behind hatch

1/4" Lite-ply

4-40 Bolt

Silicone spacer

Leave air inlet

hole open to

allow airflow

Silicone

couplers attach

headers to pipes

Canister muffler

attachments are

left up to the

uilde

INSTALLING WHEEL PANTS

1) Make a notch in the wheel pant and lite-ply mounting plate with a Dremel drum sander. Make the

notch deep enough to let the wheel pant slide over the axle to the desired height.

2) Align the wheel pant to the gear and with 1/8” drill bit, drill two equally spaced holes through gear

and wheel pant. Mount wheel pants to gear with 4/40 bolts and blind nuts.

CONTROL SURFACE THROW

1) Elevator Low rate 10 degrees up and down

High rate 20 degrees up and down

3-D rate 45 degrees up and down

2) Rudder Low rate 30% deflection left and right

High rate 60% deflection left and right

3-D rate Full deflection left and right

3) Aileron Low rate 18 degrees up 18 degrees down

High rate 24 degrees up 24 degrees down

3-D rate 35 degrees up 35 degrees down

The throws given are to be considered only a starting point. Adjust the throws to accommodate your style

of flying.

CENTER OF GRAVITY

BALANCING (C.G.) 4 ¼” BACK FROM THE LEADING EDGE OF THE WING AT THE

WING TIP.

1) Balance the Katana with fuel tank empty otherwise ready to fly.

2) With the wings, stabs and the hatch cover on the plane. Using your fingers pick up the model by the

wing tips. At the proper C.G. location which is 4 ¼” back from the leading edge of the wing tip, the

model should balance at this point. This is a starting point for the C.G. and can be adjusted forward or

aft depending on your flying style.

C.G.

4 1/4” back form

leading edge of wing tip

FLYING

We believe the Katana will be one of the finest flying airplanes you will ever fly. The Katana has no bad habits and

very slow speed stall characteristics.

Inverted flight is nearly hands off and knife-edge flight takes little or no mixing to remain straight and true.

Remember the Katana is a large aircraft and picks up speed quickly when coming out of split S type maneuvers or

when needing straight downward. (Always throttle back).

If you have followed the assembly manual instructions and have balance your Katana properly, you will be

rewarded with a highly aerobatic, stable and predictable flying airplane.

Always

protect wires

Optional rudder

servo location if

you wish to use a

pull-pull system.

Secure battery with

hooks and rubber

bands

ical radio and tank installation

Shown with a DA 50 mounted and stock stand-offs

Strip aileron horn

Tail wheel installation if

rudder servo is in tail

Attaching spring for tail

wheel if using a pull-

ull

Elevator servo installation

Tank installation

Tank is sitting on

high-density foam

with nylon ties to

hold to floor

Available From Aeroworks

ACCESSORIES FOR YOUR 29% KATANA

AEROWORKS REALISTIC PILOTS AVAIALBLE

Available in: Red, Yellow, Blue or Black Shirt color in Head Set version.

DASH PANELS AVAILABLE

WING BAGS AVAILABLE STAB BAGS AVAILABLE

STAB BAG WING BAG

HARDWARE PACKAGE AVAILABLE

29% Katana

HARDWARE PACKAGE

PACKING LIST

FUSELAGE

4 4/40 x ½ SOCKET HEAD CAP DU571 COWL MOUNT

4 #4 FLAT WASHER DU 323 COWL MOUNT

4 4/40 BLIND NUTS DU 135 COWL MOUNT

4 10/32 X ¾ SOCKET HEAD CAP DU 580 LANDING GEAR

4 10/32 BLIND NUTS DU 584 LANDING GEAR

4 #10 FLAT WASHER DU 586 LANDING GEAR

4 4/40 X ½ SOCKET HEAD CAP DU 571 WHEEL PANTS

4 4/40 BLIND NUTS DU 135 WHEEL PANTS

4 #4 FLAT WASHER DU 323 WHEEL PANTS

2 5/32 AXLE SHAFTS DU 248 MAIN WHEELS

4 5/32 WHEEL COLLARS DU140 MAIN WHEELS

2 3” DIAMETER WHEELS DU 300L MAIN WHEELS

2 4/40 x ¾” SOCKET HEAD CAP MFG279 HATCH COVER

2 #4 FLAT WASHER DU 323 HATCH COVER

2 4/40 BLIND NUTS DU 135 HATCH COVER

1 OHIO SUPERSTAR (medium) TAILWHEEL

4 4/40 x ½ SOCKET HEAD CAP DU571 BOTTOM HATCH

4 #4 FLAT WASHER DU 323 BOTTOM HATCH

4 4/40 BLIND NUTS DU 135 BOTTOM HATCH

WINGS

4 4/40 THREADED RODS DU 144 AILERON PUSHRODS

4 4/40 KWICK LINKS DU 305 AILERON PUSHRODS

2 NELSON CONTROL HORN RCL 70 AILERONS

12 HINGES DU 257 AILERONS

2 6/32 X 1 ½ SOCKET HEAD CAP DU 317 WING RETAINER

2 #6 FLAT WASHER DU 327 WING RETAINER

2 6/32 BLIND NUT DU 136 WING RETAINER

TAIL GROUP

2 4-40 THREADED RODS DU 144 ELEVATORS

2 KWICK LINKS (solder) DU 305 ELEVATORS

2 NELSON CONTROL HORN RCL 70 ELEVATORS

15 HINGES DU 257 ELEVATORS, RUDDER

2 NELSON CONTROL HORN RCL 70 RUDDER

2 4-40 x 3/4 “ SOCKET HEAD CAP DU 572 STAB RETAINER

2 #4 FLAT WASHER DU 323 STAB RETAINER

1 DUBRO PULL-PULL SYSTEM DU 518 RUDDER

2 STRIP AILERON HORN DU 103 TAILWHEEL

AeroWorks Katana S Assembly Manual

Brand: AeroWorks

Model: Katana S

Category: Toys & accessories

Type: Assembly Manual

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AeroWorks Katana S Assembly Manual

AeroWorks Katana S Assembly Manual

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