Top Flite Giant Scale Gold Edition P-51D Mustang User manual

Brand: Top Flite

Model: Giant Scale Gold Edition P-51D Mustang

Category: Toys & accessories

Type: User manual

WARRANTY.....Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both

material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts

damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite's' liability exceed the original cost of the

purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no

liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final

user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all resulting

liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, he

is advised to immediately return this kit in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

Top Flite Models

P.O. Box 788

Urbana, IL 61801

Technical Assistance - Call (217)398-8970

P516P03 V1.0

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

USA

MADE IN

METRIC CONVERSION CHART ............2

INTRODUCTION.....................................3

Precautions ..........................................3

DIE PATTERNS.....................................4,5

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE EARLY IN

THE BUILDING SEQUENCE..................6

Engine and Mount Selection.................6

Supplies and Tools Needed..................6

Other Items Required...........................7

Common Abbreviations ........................7

Types of Wood......................................7

Tips for Competition-Minded Modelers.7

GET READY TO BUILD..........................8

Build the Tail Surfaces..........................8

Build the Fin ........................................11

Build the Rudder..................................12

Build the Wing.....................................13

Join theWing Panels............................18

Sheet the Wing....................................21

Build the Fuselage...............................25

Tips for Silver Soldering ......................28

Mount the Wing to the Fuselage..........32

Attach the Stab and Fin.......................34

Prepare the Elevators..........................36

Fuselage Completion...........................37

Install the Dorsal Fin............................40

Make the Top Cowling.........................41

Mount the Cowling...............................43

Build the Wing Fillet.............................43

Install the Forward Wing Fairing..........45

Fit the Radiator....................................46

Operational Flaps................................46

FINISHING.............................................49

Final Sanding ......................................49

Fuel Proofing.......................................49

Balancing the Plane Laterally..............49

Covering..............................................49

Apply Trim ...........................................50

Exhaust Stacks....................................51

Apply Decals .......................................51

Hinging................................................51

Final Control Hardware Hookup ..........52

Mount the Landing Gear......................53

Fixed Landing Gear.............................53

Retracts...............................................53

Cockpit Finishing.................................53

Install Receiver, Switch and Battery ....54

Balance Your Model.............................54

Final Hookups and Checks..................55

Control Surface Throws.......................55

PRE-FLIGHT..........................................56

Charge the Batteries ...........................56

Find a Safe Place to Fly ......................56

Ground Check the Model.....................56

Range Check your Radio.....................56

Engine Safety Precautions ..................56

AMA SAFETY CODE.............................56

General ...............................................56

Radio Control ......................................57

FLYING ..................................................57

2-VIEW DRAWINGS ..............................60

METRIC CONVERSIONS

1” = 25.4 mm (conversion factor)

1/64” = .4 mm

1/32” = .8 mm

1/16” = 1.6 mm

3/32” = 2.4 mm

1/8” = 3.2 mm

5/32” = 4 mm

3/16” = 4.8 mm

1/4” = 6.4 mm

3/8” = 9.5 mm

1/2” = 12.7 mm

5/8” = 15.9 mm

3/4” = 19 mm

1” = 25.4 mm

2” = 50.8 mm

3” = 76.2 mm

6” = 152.4 mm

12” = 304.8 mm

15” = 381 mm

18” = 457.2 mm

21” = 533.4 mm

24” = 609.6 mm

30” = 762 mm

36” = 914.4 mm

- 2 -

TABLE OF CONTENTS

- 3 -

INTRODUCTION

Thank you for purchasing the Top Flite

GOLD EDITION

P-51D Mustang.

The Top Flite P-51D is an excellent sport

scale model that is just as “at home” with sport

flying as it is in competition. Its exact scale

outline allows you to add authentic details and

take it into serious competition if desired. Its

modern construction and refined aerodynamics,

incorporating features such as computer-

designed airfoils that progressively change from

root to tip with built-in washout, give you a plane

that will build straighter and fly better than warbird

kits of the past.

The Gold Edition Mustang is approximately

1/7th scale. The exact scale ratio is 1: 6.83. The

trim scheme allows you to finish a very

impressive model using Top Flite Super

MonoKote®. The MonoKote covered prototype,

shown on the box, was good enough to finish 2nd

in Expert at the very competitive 1992 Blue

Grass Scale Classic in Kentucky. It scored quite

well in static due to its excellent outline, and

posted the highest flight scores in the expert

category. This performance earned the Mustang

an invitation to the 1992 Scale Masters.

Please inspect all parts carefully before

starting to build! If any parts are missing,

broken or defective, or if you have any

questions about building or flying this model,

please call us at (217) 398-6300 and we’ll be

glad to help. If you are calling for replacement

parts, please look up the part numbers and

the kit identification number (stamped on the

end of the carton) and have them ready when

calling.

PRECAUTIONS

1. You must build the plane according to the

plans and instructions. Do not alter or modify

the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or

unflyable model. In a few cases the plans and

instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In

those instances you should assume the plans and

written instructions are correct.

2. You must take time to build straight true and

strong.

3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in

first class condition, the correct sized engine and

correct components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.)

throughout your building process.

4. You must properly install all R/C equipment

and other components so that the model operates

properly on the ground and in the air.

5. You must test the operation of the model

before the first and each successive flight to

insure that all equipment is operating, and you

must make certain that the model has remained

structurally sound. Be sure to check external

nylon clevises often, and replace any that show

signs of wear.

6. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot

at this time, you must fly the model only with the

competent help of a well experienced R/C pilot .

NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer,

can provide you with a top quality kit

and thorough instructions, but

ultimately the quality and flyability of

your finished model depends on how

you build it; therefore, we cannot in

any way guarantee the performance of

your completed model, and no

representations are expressed or

implied as to the performance or

safety of your completed model.

Remember: Take your time and follow

directions to complete a well-built model that

is straight and true.

WARNING! THIS IS NOT A TOY!

The model you will build from this kit is not a toy! It is capable of serous bodily

harm and property damage. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE -

to build this kit correctly, properly install all R/C components to test fly the model, and

fly it ONLY with experienced, competent help in accordance with all safety standards

as set down in the Academy on Model Aeronautics Safety Code. It is suggested that

you join the AMA to become properly insured before you attempt to fly the model. IF

YOU ARE JUST STARTING R/C MODELING, CONSULT YOUR LOCAL HOBBY

SHOP OR WRITE TO THE ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS TO FIND AN

EXPERIENCED INSTRUCTOR IN YOUR AREA.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Dr.

Muncie, IN 47302-9252 (800) 435-9262

- 4 -

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

PLY

- 5 -

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

PLY

PLY PLY

BIRCH PLY

PLY

SUGGESTED SUPPLIES AND TOOLS

❏ 2 oz. Thin CA

❏2 oz. Medium CA

❏2.5 oz. 5-Minute Epoxy

❏2.5 oz. 30-Minute Epoxy

❏Hand or Electric Drill

❏Drill Bits: 1/16”, 3/32”, 1/8”, 5/32”, 3/16”,

13/64”, 1/4”, 5/64" & 17/64”

❏Sealing Iron (Top Flite)

❏Heat Gun (Top Flite)

❏Hobby Saw (X-Acto Razor Saw or Coping

Saw)

❏X-Acto Knife, #11 Blades

❏Pliers

❏Screw Drivers

❏T-Pins

❏Straightedge with measuring scale

❏Masking Tape (Required for construction)

❏Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)*

❏T-Bar Sanding Block (or similar)

❏Waxed Paper

❏Lightweight Balsa Filler (such as Hobbico

HobbyLite™)

❏1/4-20 Tap, Tap Wrench

❏Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol (70%)

❏Dremel Moto Tool or similar (optional)

NOTE: On our workbench, we have

four 11” T-Bar sanders, equipped with

#50, #80, #150 and #220-grit

sandpaper. This setup is all that is

required for almost any sanding task.

Sanding blocks can be made from

balsa for sanding hard to reach spots.

We also keep some #320-grit wet-or-

dry sandpaper handy for finish

sanding before covering.

- 6 -

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE EARLY

IN THE BUILDING SEQUENCE

ENGINE AND MOUNT SELECTION

The recommended engine size range is as

follows:

.60 to .91 cu. in. (10cc to 15cc) 2-cycle

.90 to .120 cu. in. (15cc to 20cc) 4-cycle

The Mustang will fly well with any of the

recommended engines. The 4-cycle engines

and most .90 2-cycle engines will turn a larger

prop at lower RPM’s. This is often desirable for

scale realism. Many .60 2-cycle engines

produce about as much horsepower as the

popular .90 2-cycle engines and will fly the

Mustang fine. If you use a .60 2-cycle, a

Schnuerle ported engine is preferred.

If you will be side mounting your engine,

the 2-cycle engines will not stick out of the cowl

as much as 4-cycles will. If you mount your

engine inverted, you will need to provide ample

cooling air entry and exit areas.

This kit includes an EM60120 engine

mount that will hold most engines in the

recommended size range. The Top-Flite In-Cowl

exhaust system works very well in the Mustang

when the engine (2-Stroke) in mounted inverted.

RETRACTS

The choice whether or not to use fixed

gear or retracts is up to you. Retracts offer

good looks and great flight realism at the cost of

some expense and complication. For sport

flying and moderate competition work we

recommend you choose an air operated system

such as the Robart #605 90-degree retracts.

These offer the easiest installation and reliable

operation. Mechanical retracts could be fitted,

but the length and weight of the tire/strut

assembly would overload most servos. More

information on retracts is found in the “Tips for

Competition-Minded Modelers” section and in

the construction sequence. A Robart retractable

tail gear will work well and may be mounted to

F-10 (you must modify the lightening holes in F-

10). You must actuate the tail gear retract with

a servo or a 3/8” air cylinder and add a pull-pull

tail wheel steering system to your model.

Century Jet Models also offers a retract/strut

package that is specifially tailored for the P-51.

WHEEL SELECTION

The scale tire size is 4”. The

recommended range of tire sizes is 3-1/4” to 4”.

If you use fixed gear, you may choose to use

the smaller tires to reduce drag in the air. If you

use 3/8” offset Robostruts, they are only

available to fit up to 3-1/4” tires at the time of

this writing. Robart main wheels are very close

to scale for a P-51. A 1-1/4” tail wheel is scale

and recommended.

FLAPS

This model is designed with all the

provisions in place to iinclude operating flaps

that are very scale. They require some

craftsmanship and time but are not very difficult

to install, if you follow the instructions. They

enhance the model’s flight characteristics and

scale appeal while causing no bad effects. No

trim correction of any kind is needed when they

are used with the recommended throws. The

flaps require one channel, a Y-harness, and two

standard or mini servos. They are highly

recommended for those who wish to install

them. More information on the use of the flaps

may be found in the flying section.

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS USED IN

THIS BOOK AND ON THE PLANS:

deg.= Degrees Ply = Plywood

Elev= Elevator Stab = Stabilizer

Fuse= Fuselage " = Inches

LE= Leading Edge (front) Rt = Right

LG= Landing Gear Lt = Left

TYPES OF WOOD

TIPS FOR COMPETITION-MINDED

MODELERS

COUNTERBALANCES

The elevator and rudder counterbalances may

be added for scale appearance. They do not

affect the flight performance. Their locations and

sizes are dashed in on the plans.

SCALE RETRACTS AND DOORS

The retract landing gear pivot location shown

on the plans is basically correct. The stance of the

model (and strut length) shown with the gear down

is correct. Keep in mind that the Mustang's gear,

like that in most modern aircraft, compresses

under the weight of the aircraft and extends when

the aircraft takes off. This fact means that the rigid

struts commonly used on models will not fold into

the scale locations. The only reasonable way to

overcome this problem is to use oleo struts (such

as Robart Robostruts) that have springs light

enough to compress under the weight of the model

and thus function in a scale fashion.

If you should choose to modify your kit to

include very scale retracts and doors, most of the

work is up to you. Fully cycling gear doors

require much preplanning, excellent

craftsmanship, and are generally expensive. We

can, however, offer a few hints:

1. Bob Violett Models’ T-33 main landing gear

retracts may be a good place to start for the

following reasons.

- 7 -

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED

Four to six channel radio with 4 to 7 servos.

Engine (see page 6 and the box side panel)

Engine Mount (see page 6)

Propellers (see engine instructions for recommended sizes). Note: The 4-blade prop shown on the

front of this manual is specially made for display purposes from two wooden props and is not usable

for actual flight.

Pilot figure (1/7 or 2” scale recommended)

4” (102mm) P-51 Spinner (CB #5103 (red), #5105 (black), #5106 (white) recommended)

Fuel Tank (Most 10 to 14 oz. (296cc to 415cc) tanks will fit)

3-1/4” (83mm) to 4” (102mm) Main Wheels (2) (see page 6)

1-1/4” (32mm) Tail wheel (see page 6)

3/16” (4.8mm) Wheel Collars (4 for fixed gear main wheels)

3/32” (2.4mm) Wheel Collars (2 for tail wheel)

Top Flite®Super MonoKote®(2 rolls) Aluminum plus Red, White, Black, and Olive Drab shown

Silicone Fuel Tubing

Latex Foam Rubber Padding (Hoibbico® 1/4” thick foam)

Optional:

Retracts ..................Robart #605

Air Control Kit............Robart #188

Hinge Points (for flaps)...Robart #309

Robostruts................Robart #653 L&R

SCALE DOCUMENTATION

This model was designed using the Koko-

Fan 3-view drawings as the reference for

outline. This fact makes it preferable to use

those drawing for scale documentation.

The drawings and many Mustang photo

packs are available from:

Scale Model Research

2334 Ticonderoga Way

Costa Mesa, CA 92626

(714) 979-8058

“Photos of Violett T-33 main landing gear and

suggested 1/4” plywood aft mounting rail”

a. They are very low profile and can be

buried in the wing deeply enough to leave room

for outer doors.

b. They lock down in a position that is angled.

Therefore, they compensate for some of the

dihedral in the P-51 wing.

c. They have a pivot block strut hole diameter

that directly accepts Robostruts when shimmed

with a piece of K&S brass 13/32” O.D. tubing.

d. They do not have an uplock and therefore

can pull the strut and tire farther than 90 degrees

and fully into the wheel wells.

e. Use 5/8” I.D. Robart air cylinders mounted

inboard of the retracts to actuate these units.

These cylinders have enough power to lift and

hold the long strut and heavy tire.

REMEMBER: A retract and strut like this is a

very rigid unit. This gives excellent ground

handling, but requires strong mounts.

2. 4-inch wheels are the closest to scale.

However, offset struts to hold 4” wheels may be

hard to find. Robart makes an offset strut to hold

their 3-1/4” wheel, which works well and looks

close to scale. Robart may offer struts for 4”

wheels at some time after this writing.

3. Bob Violett Models has offset door hinges

that are excellent for hinging inner main landing

gear doors. They also offer small scale-looking

air cylinders that are specifically designed for

actuating landing gear doors. The real Mustang’s

inner doors are closed during take off and

landing. When “gear-up” is selected, they open,

allow the wheels to come in, then close again.

Duplicating this action requires either 2-channels,

or a very tricky mechanism. The inner doors on

the real aircraft would often fall open when the

engine was off and hydraulic pressure was lost.

4. The holes for the forward wing mounts may be

drilled so the 1/4 -20 nylon bolts are concealed

under the inner doors.

________________________________________

GET READY TO BUILD

1. Unroll the plan sheets. Re-roll the plans

inside out to make them lie flat.

2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do,

figure out the name of each part by comparing it

with the plans and the parts list. Using a felt tip or

ball point pen, write the part name or size on

each piece to avoid confusion later. Use the die-

cut patterns shown on pages 4 and 5 to identify

the die-cut parts and mark them before punching

out. Save all scraps. If any of the die-cut parts

are difficult to punch out, do not force them!

Instead, first cut around the parts with an X-acto

knife. After punching out the die-cut parts, use

your T-Bar or sanding block to lightly sand the

edges to remove any die-cutting irregularities.

3. As you identify and mark the parts,

separate them into groups, such as fuse

(fuselage), wing, fin and stab (stabilizer), and

hardware.

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES

1. Work on a flat surface over the plans

covered with waxed paper. Refer to the plans to

identify the parts and their locations.

2. Punch out both sets of the die-cut 3/32”

balsa ribs S-1 to S-6. There are jig tabs on the

bottom edges of these ribs. If any of these break

off, carefully glue them back on with thin CA.

Lightly sand any imperfections. You may need to

finish cutting the notch in the forward portion of

S-1 for the Stab Joiner (SJ) with a knife. Using a

pen, mark the extensions of the bottom edge of

the ribs across the fore and aft jig tabs. These

will aid in centering the Leading and Trailing

Edges.

3. The Stab Trailing Edges (TE’s) are die-

cut from 1/4” balsa. Since some crushing may

happen when die-cutting wood of this thickness,

they are supplied slightly long and can be

trimmed. Smooth the edges of these pieces with

sandpaper.

4. The stab and fin Leading Edges (LE’s)

are made from the 1/4” x 30” tapered balsa stock.

Cut two pieces about 1/4” longer than the length

shown on the plans for the stab LE.

- 8 -

5. Starting with the right half of the stab, pin

ribs S-2 and S-6 to the building board over their

locations on the plans.

6. Center the LE vertically on the front edge

of ribs S-2 and S-6. Glue it in place with CA.

7. Center the TE vertically on the back edge

of ribs S-2 and S-6. Glue it in place with CA.

8. Glue ribs S-3, S-4, and S-5 in their places.

All the jig tabs should rest on the work surface.

9. Trim the LE and TE so they end exactly

over the stab centerline.

10. Repeat steps 5 through 8 to build the left

half of the stab. The left half of the stab is built

next to the right half with the two halves butt

glued together for now.

11. Trim the 1/4” x 7/16” x 4-1/4" hard balsa

stab TE joiner, if necessary, to fit between the

S-2’s. Securely glue it to the TE’s and the S-2’s.

12. Trim the length of the die-cut 1/8”

plywood Stab Joiner (SJ), if required, for a good

fit between the S-2’s. Place the stab joiner into

the slots in the S-1’s and work the whole

assembly into position. Make sure all parts are

properly aligned and the S-1 jig tabs contact the

work surface. Glue in the stab joiner and the S-

1’s.

13. Using medium CA, reinforce any glue

joints that do not look strong.

14. Carefully remove the stab from the

building board but try not to damage the jig tabs,

as they will be useful until after the top of the stab

is sheeted.

15. Use a razor plane and a sanding block to

- 9 -

- 10 -

blend the top surface to the LE (particularly

toward the tip), even with the ribs. Sand the TE,

if required, to blend with the ribs.

TIPS FOR MAKING WING

AND STAB SKINS

A. Whenever possible, pre-join the balsa sheets

to make a “skin” before attaching them to the

structure.

B. Many modelers like to sort the wood to put the

best wood with the most even grain structure on

the top of the wing and stab.

C. Make your skin larger than needed to allow for

misalignment. On a large surface like the wing,

3/8” extra is suggested.

D. To make skins the following steps are

suggested:

1. True up the edges of the sheets with a

metal straight edge and a sharp knife or a “T-Bar”

sanding block.

2. Test fit the sheets together to make sure

they match well.

3. Glue the sheets together with thin CA over

a flat surface covered with waxed paper. I quickly

wipe the joint with a fresh paper towel to remove

excess glue and make sanding easier. Mark the

poorest surface that you think should be the

inside of the sheet with an “I”.

4. Working on a flat surface, sand the skin

with a large flat sanding block and fresh, sharp

220 paper.

5. Trim the perimeter of the sheet to even up

the edges.

16. Make four stab skins from three 1/16” x 3”

x 30” balsa wing sheet pieces. See the sketch for

the proper layout on the wood. Refer to the plans

for the exact shapes and sizes, but remember to

make the skins slightly oversize.

17. Pin the stab structure onto the flat

building surface. Test fit the two skins over the

structure. Make sure the skins meet well at the

center. Adjust them if necessary.

18. Apply an even bead of medium or thick

CA to the top edges of the structure. Place the

skin in its proper position and press it firmly down

until the glue has set. Repeat this step for the

other top skin.

Hint: A small stack of magazines can

be used to hold the sheeting down.

19. Remove the stab from the building board.

Trim off the jig tabs with a sharp knife. Trim and

blend the LE and TE to the ribs as you did before.

Check all glue joints, adding glue as necessary.

20. If you want to modify the stab for the

scale balance tabs or a different hinging

technique, now is the time to add the appropriate

structure. Refer to the plans for the locations and

sizes of the balance tabs (parts not included).

21. It is important to get a good glue bond

between the stab structure and the bottom stab

skins. Apply a heavy bead of medium or thick CA

to all of the bottom edges of the right side of the

stab structure. Place a skin on the structure and

hold it in place with your hands until the glue sets.

Repeat this for the left side. Be careful not to

bend or twist the stab during this step.

22. True up the ends of the stab with a

sanding block. Round the leading edge of the

stab to match the cross section on the plan.

23. Glue on the shaped 5/8" balsa Stab

Tips. Use a razor plane and a sanding block to

shape them to match the stab airfoil. You may

contour the tip to its final shape now, or wait until

the model is nearer completion.

BUILD THE FIN

1. Cut a 9-1/2” length of the tapered 1/4”

balsa stabilizer LE stock left over from the stab.

2. Glue the die-cut 1/4” balsa Fin Forward

and Aft TE’s (FF and FA) together with CA.

Since these pieces are thick and die-cut, they will

probably require a little touch up and blending

with a sanding block.

3. Punch out the die-cut 3/32” balsa ribs V-1

through V-6. Be sure to preserve their jig tabs.

4. Pin ribs V-1 and V-6 to the building board

over their proper locations. Center the LE on the

front of the ribs and glue it in place. Notice that

the fin LE protrudes through the stab into former

F-11.

5. Center the Fin TE on the aft edge of the

ribs and glue it in place.

6. Put ribs V-2 through V-5 into their places

and glue them. Remember, all jig tabs should

contact the work surface.

7. Apply extra medium CA glue to any joints

that do not appear to be well glued.

8. Blend the LE to match the ribs on the

upward facing (left) fin side. Sand the TE if

necessary to blend smoothly with the ribs.

9. Make a skin for each side of the fin using

the 1/16” balsa sheet left over from the stab

skins. See the sketch on page 10.

10. With the structure flat on the table, glue

on the left skin.

11. Trim off the jig tabs and blend the LE and

TE to the ribs on the right side of the fin.

- 11 -

12. If you are adding scale balance tabs, add

the simple additional structure as shown in the

photo. (Parts not included).

13. Glue on the right skin.

14. True up the edges of the fin sheeting with

a sanding block. Shape the LE to match the

cross section on the plans.

15. Glue the shaped 3/4” balsa fin tip to the

top of the fin. Use a razor plane and a sanding

block to do the initial shaping of the tip. Final

shaping should be done later, with the fin taped to

the rudder.

BUILD THE RUDDER

1. Glue the two die-cut 1/4” balsa Rudder

LE’s together with medium CA. Even up the

edges with a sanding block, but save any tapering

for later.

2. Draw a centerline on the aft surface of the

LE. Draw two parallel lines 1/16” away from both

sides of the centerline.

3. Align the die-cut 3/32” balsa Rudder Plate

(RP) over the plans and mark the “Rib” locations

on both sides of the rudder plate. (See the photo

below.)

4. Hold the Rudder Plate centered on the

rudder LE. Apply thin CA to the joint.

5. Glue the two 1/2” thick shaped balsa

Rudder Tips to both sides of the top of the

rudder plate.

6. Glue the two 1/2” thick shaped balsa

Rudder Bases to both sides of the bottom of the

rudder plate.

7. Cut “ribs” from the 3/32” x 1/2” x 30”

balsa sticks and glue them onto both sides of the

rudder at the locations you previously marked.

8. Refer to the photos and the cross sections

- 12 -

on the plans to obtain the shape of the rudder.

Use a razor plane and sanding block to “rough in”

the shape of the rudder. Final shaping and fitting

should be done after the fin is glued onto the

fuselage, but you may wish to tape the rudder to

the fin at this point to blend the tips of both.

BUILD THE WING

NOTE: The wings are built “UPSIDE-

DOWN” on the plans. The jig tabs are

attached to what is, in the end, the

TOP surface of the wing.

VERY IMPORTANT! Since it is the

standard convention to show the Top

View of the wing, and the wing panels

are built upside-down, the LEFT wing

panel is built over the RIGHT Wing Top

View and vice-versa. This does not

present any problems. Just be sure to

build a left and a right wing.

1. Place the wing plan on your building board

and cover it with waxed paper (you may wish to

cut the wing panel sections of the plan apart to

make handling easier.)

2. Hold the 1/4” x 3/8” x 36” balsa Spars over

the wing plans. Mark the Spars about 1/4” longer

than they need to be. Cut off the spars at the

marks and save the excess for the Flap Servo

Mounts.

3. Punch out all the die-cut 3/32” balsa wing

Ribs. Smooth out any imperfections with

sandpaper. Be sure to keep the jig tabs attached

to the ribs.

4. Ribs W-1 through W-8 have punch marks

just aft of the spar that locate the aileron

pushrods for you. Drill a 3/16” hole at each of

these marks.

5. Drill 1/8” holes through the punch marks in

the two die-cut 1/8” plywood Aileron Bellcrank

Plates (AB). Assemble the bellcrank parts as

shown in the sketch, making a left and a right

plate. Be sure to put a drop of 5-minute epoxy

on the 4-40 nut and threads to prevent the

bellcrank from vibrating loose.

6. Taper one end of each of the four 1/8” x

3/8” x 18” balsa Spar Doublers to match the spar

detail drawing on the plans. Glue a Spar Doubler

to each Spar with the root (non-tapered) end of

the doubler aligned with the root end of the Spar.

7. Center the die-cut 3/16” balsa Aft

Aileron Trailing Edge (A) on the die-cut 3/16”

balsa Forward Aileron Trailing Edge (F) and

glue them together with thin CA. Use a sanding

block to taper the two pieces slightly as shown in

the cross sectional drawing on the plan. These

pieces are die-cut slightly long to allow you to trim

off any imperfections.

- 13 -

8. Pin a Spar assembly to the building

board at three or four locations using the cross-

pinning technique shown in the sketch with the

Doublers up.

9. Glue the die-cut 3/32” balsa ribs W-2

through W-12 to the Spar. These should be

vertical and aligned over their appropriate

locations as indicated on the plans. The jig tabs

located near the aft end of the ribs should all

contact the work surface.

10. Glue the aileron Trailing Edge

assembly to the aft edge of ribs W-8 through

W-12. The upward facing edges of the ribs and

the Trailing Edges should be even and the jig

tabs should all be touching the work surface

during this step.

NOTE: The inboard end of the aileron

TE extends approximately 15/16”

inboard of rib W-8, as shown on the

plan.

11. Glue the lower 1/8” x 3/16” x 21” balsa

TE Spar as far forward as possible in the slots in

ribs W-2 through W-8.

12. Glue the lower 1/8” x 1/8” x 21” balsa

Flap LE into the aft portion of the slots in ribs W-

2 to W-7. There should be a 1/16” gap between

the TE spar and the flap LE.

13. Repeat steps 11 and 12 for the slot in

the upper side of the ribs.

14. Glue the 1/2” x 21” tapered balsa

- 14 -

Flap TE to ribs W-2 and W-7. The flap TE

should be centered on the aft edges of the ribs

and should protrude straight back (see the cross-

sections on the wing plan). Make sure all the jig

tabs are contacting the table. A metal straight

edge can be placed on the structure over the jig

tabs to hold them all down.

15. Sight down the TE of the wing from

the root end, making sure all the ribs are aligned

at the same height. Use paper to shim under any

low jig tabs. Glue the Flap TE to the remainder of

the ribs.

16. Work the upper spar assembly into

place. Make sure it fits well. Put some weights

on top of the structure to make sure it is firmly on

the work surface. Use CA to glue in the top spar.

17. Use a razor saw to put a V-notch in the

shaped balsa Leading Edge to allow it to “bend”

(break) at R-4. Use the LE detail drawing on the

wing plan for reference.

18. Hold the LE centered vertically on the

front edge of the ribs. Use CA to glue it in place.

19. Use thick CA to glue in the die-cut 1/8”

plywood Landing Gear Doublers. Since the

wing panels are built upside-down, the “openings”

in the doublers should face upwards as shown in

the photos. The right side wing plan shows the

placement of the two doublers for retract gear (Z-

4 and Z-5). The left side wing plan shows the

placement of the three fixed gear doublers (G-3,

G-4, and G-5).

Retract Doublers shown

20. Use a sharp knife to trim the balsa ribs

to match the cut-outs in the doublers.

- 15 -

21. If you are going to use flaps, trim the

1/4” x 3/8” balsa stock left over from the wing

Spars to the length shown on the plans for the

flap servo bay rails. Glue the rails into the

notches in W-2 and W-3 with CA. If you do not

plan to use flaps, you may fill the notches with

scrap wood or put the rails in anyway.

22. Glue the aileron bellcrank assembly

into the slots in ribs W-8 and W-9. The bellcrank

should face upwards as shown in the photo.

23. Fit, then glue, in the die-cut 3/32” balsa

Flap Tip Rib at the location shown on the plans.

24. If you plan to use flaps, fit and glue in

the two die-cut 3/32” balsa Flap Root Ribs. Use

a scrap piece of 1/16” balsa to space the root ribs

apart. If you are not using flaps, these parts may

be glued in anyway, or discarded.

25. Custom fit 1/16” balsa Shear Webs to

fit behind the spar between ribs W-3 to W-12.

Glue them to the spars with medium CA. Wick

thin CA into all the joints of the shear webs and

the spars to make sure they are well bonded. It is

not important to glue the shear webs to the ribs.

26. Fit and glue a shear web to the front

of the spars between ribs W-3 and W-4 for extra

strength.

27. Sight down the wing trailing edge to

make sure it is still straight. Shim any low jig tabs

if required. Trim each of the 1/16” x 3” x 3/4”

balsa Aft Shear Webs to fit between ribs W-2

through W-8 in front of the TE Spar. Glue them in

place with the structure held firmly on your flat

work surface.

28. Cut a 16-1/2” long piece of Outer

Pushrod Tube. Roughen the outside of the tube

with 220 grit sandpaper. Feed the tube through

the holes in the ribs as shown on the plans. Use

CA to glue the tube to the ribs.

29. Cut five lengths of Inner Pushrod

Tube about 5/16” long. Slide them onto an .074”

x 34” Threaded End Pushrod Wire at the

intervals shown on the plans. Carefully apply a

small drop of CA to the short tubes if they are not

very snug on the wire.

30. Securely snap a nylon clevis onto the

- 16 -

bellcrank. Feed the wire assembly into the wing

and screw the threaded end well into the clevis.

Hint: The wire is extra long. After the threaded

end starts threading into the clevis, you may bend

over the excess wire and use it as a handle to

turn the wire the rest of the way into the clevis.

Be sure to hold the clevis securely with pliers

while threading the wire into it to keep from

stressing the clevis pin. Cut off the excess wire

flush with the root end of the spar.

31. Use the die-cut plywood 93 deg. tool

(93) as shown to mark the ends of the spars and

TE’s.

NOTE: When marking the spars, the

corner of the tool is on the wing

centerline. When marking the TE

spars and flap LE's, the corner of the

tool is positioned where the TE spars

end on the plan.

DO STEPS 32 AND 33 IF YOU ARE BUILDING

OPERATING FLAPS.

32. Glue the die-cut 1/8” plywood Flap

Horn Base (FH) in its place between W-2 and

W-3. Note how it is flush with the upward facing

edge of the ribs.

33. Cut pieces approximately 1” long from

the 1/2” x 3/4” x 12” balsa stick provided to act as

flap hinge blocks. These are shown on the right

wing panel plan. Some custom fitting of these,

such as tapering, is required. Skip to step 36.

DO STEPS 34 AND 35 FOR FIXED GEAR.

34. Glue the 1/2” x 3/4” x 6-3/4” slotted

hardwood Landing Gear Rail and the 1/2” x 3/4”

x 1-1/2” maple LG Block with a generous amount

of epoxy. Their locations are shown on the left

wing panel drawing. Drill a 3/16” hole through the

rail and block at the location shown on the plan,

to allow the landing gear wire to be inserted.

- 17 -

- 18 -

35. Make any adjustments necessary to

allow the bent wire main landing gear to slide

properly into place.

DO STEPS 36 - 39 FOR RETRACT GEAR.

36. Slide the 1/4” x 3/8” x 3-3/4” plywood

Retract Gear Rails into the slots in W-4 and W-5.

Test fit your retracts between the rails. If the rail

spacing is not correct (it should be for most

retracts) adjust the aft slots.

37. Manually extend and retract the gear,

noting the strut angle. Adjust the depth of the

slots if necessary to give a satisfactory angle

when the gear is retracted and extended. It will

be necessary to cut a slot in R-3 for the strut to

pass through.

38. Use generous amounts of 30 minute

epoxy to glue in the rails.

39. Mark and drill the retract mounting

holes in the retract rails.

Repeat steps 7 to 39 to build the other wing

panel.

NOTE: At this point you may remove

the wing panels from the building

board if you have not already done so.

Try to store your panels on a flat

surface with some weights on top of

them until they are joined and sheeted,

to prevent warping.

JOIN THE WING PANELS

1. Trim the ends of the spars, LE’s, and TE’s

of both panels very close to the tip rib W-12.

Excess overhang will affect the dihedral angle.

2. Draw a centerline on both W-2’s as shown

in the photos.

3. Trim all the spars at the root end of the

wing as they were previously marked with the 93

degree tool.

4. When you are totally ready to join the

wings, trim off all the jig tabs except those on W-

2and W-12. Use a small sanding block to “clean

up” the area around the tabs.

5. Place the two 3/8” x 1-1/2” x 7-1/2”

Dihedral Jig Blocks under the two W-2 ribs.

Place the wing halves together upside-down.

The spars at W-2 and the W-2 jig tabs on both

panels should rest on the Jig Blocks. The tip

ends of the spars and the W-12 jig tabs rest on

the table (see photo on the next page).

6. Test fit the wing panels on the Jig Blocks

with the two die-cut 1/16” plywood Dihedral

Braces in place. Adjust any parts until the panels

join up nicely at the spars. The die-cut 1/8”

plywood Aft Cross Brace (CB) should be

included in these test fittings. If it requires

trimming, take equal amounts off the right and left

ends.

7. Make two equal length sticks from scrap to

act as spacers between the two W-2’s. These

should be positioned on the W-2 centerline. The

length of these sticks will vary slightly depending

on how your spars are trimmed, but 5-1/2” is a

good starting point (see photo below). These two

sticks will make sure the W-2 ribs are parallel.

8. Test fit the Aft Cross Brace and the sticks

between the two W-2’s and adjust both sticks

equally if adjustment is required. You may notice

that the spars sweep forward slightly. This is

normal.

9. When the wing fits on the Jig Blocks with

the Aft Cross Brace (CB) and the two equal

length sticks in place, it is time to glue it together.

The best method is to use 30 minute epoxy. Coat

the mating surfaces of the spars and dihedral

braces. Then assemble the parts onto the Jig

Blocks. Use CA to tack glue the two equal length

sticks into place as shown in the photos. Use CA

to glue the Aft Cross Brace (CB) into place. Use

masking tape to clamp the dihedral braces to the

spars.

10. Make four 1/16” balsa shear webs to cap

the dihedral braces between W-2 and W-3.

11. Align and glue the die-cut 1/8” plywood

W-1C’s to the die-cut 1/8” plywood W-1B’s, being

sure to make a left and a right.

12. Plug the die-cut 1/8” plywood Aileron

Servo Tray between the two W-1B/C’s. Make

sure all the front edges are aligned. Use a 90

deg. triangle to hold each W-1B/C vertical while

you glue it to the servo tray.

13. Plug the die-cut 1/8” plywood F-8B into

the aft end of the assembly. Check to see that all

edges are square and properly aligned. Use a

hobby knife to make small adjustments to the

notches if required. Use a 90 deg. triangle to

hold the W-1B/C’s vertical while you glue them to

F-8B.

14. Remove the rear stick. Work the

assembly into position in the center of the wing.

Trim the aft spars and flap LE, if necessary, to fit

the assembly. Trim the flap TE as shown on the

plans and in the photos to allow clearance for F-

8B. The photos with steps 17 and 18 show you

the finished assembly.

- 19 -

15. Notice that the W-1 ribs in the assembly

are undersized 1/16” (except the area around the

top of the aileron servo) to allow for a center

doubler of 1/16” balsa center sheeting. Put marks

on the dihedral braces 3/4” both ways from the

center of the wing to aid in the alignment of the

center assembly.

16. The front of the assembly is positioned by

aligning the top edge of the assembly with the top

of the dihedral brace. Tack glue the assembly at

the front edge. NOTE: The word “top” refers to

the top surface of the wing.

17. The back end of the assembly is aligned

by centering the flap TE on the top edge of F-8B

at W-1. The Aft Cross Brace (CB) should

protrude about 1/16” on both sides of the W-1 ribs

to allow for the double sheeting.

18. Thoroughly glue all the joints in the area

of the center assembly with medium CA.

19. Make shear webs for the aft spar

between F-1 and F-2. Glue them to the front of

the aft spar with medium CA.

20. Trim the length of the 1/4” plywood

beveled edge Wing Bolt Plate until it fits between

the two W-2’s near their centerline.

21. Mark a centerline on the Wing Bolt Plate.

Mark two lines offset 3/4” on both sides of the

centerline as shown.

22. Mark the wing bolt hole locations as

shown in the sketch above. Drill 13/64” pilot

holes at the locations marked.

- 20 -

Page is loading ...

Top Flite Giant Scale Gold Edition P-51D Mustang User manual

Brand: Top Flite

Model: Giant Scale Gold Edition P-51D Mustang

Category: Toys & accessories

Type: User manual

Download PDF

report

Top Flite Giant Scale Gold Edition P-51D Mustang User manual

Top Flite Giant Scale Gold Edition P-51D Mustang User manual

Related papers

Other documents