Tower Hobbies Ultimate Bipe GP/EP ARF User manual

Category
Remote controlled toys
Type
User manual

This manual is also suitable for

1
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL
BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION.
IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS
AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE
ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
Tower
Hobbies
®
guarantees
this kit to be
free from defects
in both material and
workmanship at the
date of purchase. This
warranty does not cover any
component parts damaged by
use or modication. In no case shall
Tower Hobbies’ liability exceed the
original cost of the purchased kit. Further,
Tower Hobbies reserves the right to change
or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Tower Hobbies has no control over the nal
assembly or material used for nal assembly, no
liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage
resulting from the use by the user of the nal user-assembled
product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the
user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the
use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in
new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to Hobby Services at
the address below:
Hobby Services • 3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1 • Champaign IL 61822 • USA
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as
possible (daytime telephone number, fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of
the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package the problem
will be evaluated as quickly as possible.
WARRANTY
TOWA2050
© 2016 Tower Hob bies .
®
A subsidiary of Hobbico, Inc.
®
®
TOWER HOBBIES
Champaign, Illinois
(217) 398-8970 ext. 5
RADIO
45 channel
WINGSPAN
45.5 in [1155 mm]
WEIGHT
6.0 7.25 lbs. [27203290g]
WING AREA
840 sq in [54.2 dm
2
]
LENGTH
50 in [1270mm]
airsupport@hobbico.com
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
WING LOADING
16 – 20 oz/ft
2
[49 61 g/dm
2
]
POWER
.46 .55 2-stroke glow,
.72 .81 4-stroke glow,
RimFire .55 42-60-480,
6S LiPo, 75A ESC
2
INTRODUCTION
Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the Tower
Hobbies Ultimate bipe. In spite of its aerobatic appearance, the
Ultimate is a cinch to takeoff,  y and land and is unexpectedly
stable. But when you’re ready to lay down some aerobatics
the Ultimate is ready to respond when its time to move the
sticks to the corners!
Powered by a .46 2-stroke glow, the Ultimate  ies surprisingly
well. But if aggresive aerobatics is your preference a 2-stroke
glow is not the optimum choice. With a 2-stroke the Ultimate
still performs all the expected sport aerobatic maneuvers
such as loops (inside and outside), rolls, point rolls, stalls,
spins, inverted  ight and even knife-edge  ight. Even if the
Ultimate doesn’t have unlimited vertical with a 2-stroke, a
2-stroke is still the lightest setup which you will actually be
able to feel when it’s in the air.
Because of the large propellers it can swing, the Ultimate
becomes a monster with a Rim re .55 and a 6S battery.
Performance when powered by an O.S. .72 is a close second.
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to the
Utimate ARF visit the Tower Hobbies web site at towerhobbies.
com and visit the page for the Ultimate ARF. If there is new
technical information or changes to this model a “tech notice”
box will appear on the page.
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
Radio/Servos
The Ultimate can be  own with a 4-channel radio, but a
computer radio such as the Tactic TTX650 is recommended
because of the simplicity and  exibility a computer radio offers
in addition to the convenience of multiple model memory:
Tactic TTX650 6-channel programmable radio
(TACJ2650)
Tactic TR625 6-chanel receiver (TACL0625)
Hobbico 2S (6.6V) LiFe receiver pack (HCAM6411)*
On-off receiver switch (TACM2000)*
* If powering your Ultimate with a brushless electric motor,
you may power the receiver and servos from the BEC in
the ESC, so a receiver battery or on/off receiver switch
will be not required.
The Ultimate was designed for mini servos, but regular servos
with minimum torque of 55oz-in [4.0 kg-cm] may be used
simply by enlarging the servo mounts in the wing and fuselage.
Tactic TSX25 mini digital high-speed 2 ball bearing servos
(TACM0225) or Tactic TSX20 mini high-speed 2 ball bearing
servos (TACM0220) are recommended.
The Ultimate may be  own with two or four aileron servos.
With two servos, the ailerons in the top wing are operated
by pushrods connected directly to the bottom ailerons. With
four servos, each aileron is operated by its own servo. The
advantage of two servos is economy and less weight. The
advantage of four servos is increased response and precision.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Radio/Servos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Glow Engine & Accessories for Glow . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Brushless Electric Motor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
LiPo Battery Charger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
ADHESIVES. HARDWARE
AND
OTHER ACCESSORIES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
KIT INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
CONTENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
PREPARATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
ASSEMBLE THE WINGS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Install the Aileron Servos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Hook Up the Ailerons. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Install the Horizontal Stabilizer
and Vertical Stabilizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Hinge the Elevators and Rudder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Hook Up the Elevator and Rudder. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Mount the Motor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Mount the ESC. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Mount the Engine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Install the Fuel Tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Hook Up the Throttle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Mount the Cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Finish the Radio Installation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Mount the Main Landing Gear. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Attach the Belly Pan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Assemble the Canopy Hatch. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Mount the Wings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Make the Aileron Pushrods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
PREPARE THE MODEL FOR FLIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Apply the Decals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Set the Control Throws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Check the C.G. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Balance the Model Laterally . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
PREFLIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Engine/Motor Safety Precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Propeller Selection for a Brushless Motor. . . . . . . . . 32
Battery Precautions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Range Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
AMA SAFETY CODE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
General . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Radio Control. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Know Before You Fly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
FLYING. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
3
Electric-
powered
Glow-
powered
SERVO CHART
Wing
conguration
4 aileron
servos
2 aileron
servos
4 aileron
servos
2 aileron
servos
Total number
of servos
required
6475
The quantity and lengths of servo extensions can get
complicated depending upon whether you want to mix all four
aileron servos electronically, or mix them mechanically with
Y-harnesses, and whether you plan to remove the wings for
transport (then, you’ll want a servo wire connection from the
top aileron servos alongside one of the rear cabane struts that
can be easily connected and disconnected). The instruction
manual illustrates both two aileron servos in the bottom wing
only and four aileron servos in the top and bottom wings, but
for both options all the aileron servos were connected into
one channel with Y-harnesses as listed below.
2 Aileron Servos 4 Aileron Servos
SERVO EXTENSIONS and Y-HARNESS for
CONNECTING AILERON SERVOS INTO ONE CHANNEL
20"[508mm]
Y-harness
(1) TACM2500 (2) TACM2500
5"
6"
[130
150 mm]
Y-harness
Not Required (1) VNRM1668
Glow Engine & Accessories for Glow
The Ultimate is suited for a .46 – .55 2-stroke or .72 – .81
4-stroke. Because the engine is side-mounted, 2-stroke
engines require a Bisson Pitts-style muf er:
O.S. FS72-a 4-stroke with muf er (OSMG0877)
*O.S. 46AXII 2-stroke with muf er (OSMG0548)
O.S. 55AX ABL 2-stroke with muf er (OSMG0557)
Bisson Pitts-style muf er (BISG4046)
1/4" [6.4mm] R/C foam rubber (HCAQ1000)
Great Planes Dead Center Hole Locator (GPMR8130)
3’ [.9m] medium silicone fuel line (GPMQ4131)
Optional: Aluminum fuel line plug (GPMQ4166)
Dubro Fuel Clunk Standard (DUBQ0637)
Suitable propeller for your engine
* With the O.S. .46 AXII an APC 12.5 x 6 (APCQ9905)
was preferred
Brushless Electric Motor
The electric setup for the Ultimate is straightforward: a Great
Planes ElectriFly RimFire .55 on a 6S battery in the 3800mAh
range with a 75A ESC. Propeller selection depends upon your
preference and  ying style, but we preferred the APCX 16 x
8E (full discussion on prop selection on page 32). A Castle
Creations Edge Lite 75 is also recommended and illustrated
in the instruction manual because it is compact, durable,
programmable and features data logging. The discharge
wires from the ESC require lengthening to reach the battery
and order numbers for the wire are provided below.
42-60-480 RimFire .55 (GPMG4715)
Brushless motor mount for medium motors
(GPMG1255)
M3 x 6 screws for mounting motor to motor mount
(DTXC8650 or HPIC0351)
APC 16 x 8 thin E prop (APCQ4015)
Castle Creations Edge Lite 75 (CSEM1200)
(2) FlightPower 3S 3800 30C (FPWP3383) and Great
Planes Series adapter (GPMM3143)
OR
FlightPower 6S 3800mAh 30C (FPWP3386)
Adhesive-back Velcoro for mounting batteries
(GPMQ4480)
10 gauge silicone wire to extend discharge wires
from ESC
CSEC0030 3’ black
CSEC0031 3’ red
3/16" heat shrink tubing (GPMM1056)
T-style Star connector (HCAM4001)
LiPo Battery Charger
To charge a 6S 3800 mAh LiPo at 1C, a charger capable of
at least 95 watts is required (6S x 4.2V/cell = 25.2 V x 3.8 A =
95 Watts). The Triton2 EQ is just enough charger with 100 W
output AC and 120 W output DC (GPMM3156).
ADHESIVES. HARDWARE AND
OTHER ACCESSORIES
Other than common hobby tools here is a list of the rest of
the items required:
30-minute epoxy (GPMR6043)
Epoxy brushes (GPMR8060)
Mixing cups (GPMR8056)
Mixing sticks (GPMR8055)
Threadlocker thread locking cement (GPMR6060)
Thin CA (GPMR6001)
Medium CA (GPMR6007)
CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)
A #50 (.070") drill (for drilling out servo arms for the
pushrod wires)
Optional: 1/5-scale Sport pilot (GPMQ9015)
Optional: Zap Adhesives Formula 560 Canopy Glue
(PAAR3300)
4
A Robart Super Stand II (ROBP1402) is also indispensable
for working on your Ultimate.
A covering iron with a cover sock may be required for
tightening and re bonding the covering to the model that may
have loosened between the time the plane was manufactured
and the time the model was removed from the box. The 21
st
Century iron is preferred because of its long cord, contoured
shoe and precisely adjustable temperature range. A trim iron
is also handy for detailed covering tasks.
Coverite 21
st
Century Sealing Iron (COVR2700)
Coverite 21
st
Century Cover Sock (COVR2702)
Coverite 21
st
Century Trim Seal Tool (COVR2750)
KIT INSPECTION
Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit to make
sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to make sure they
are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of
acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly,
contact Product Support. When reporting defective or
missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written
in the Kit Contents list.
Hobbico Product Support
3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1 Ph: (217) 398-8970, ext. 5
Champaign, IL 61822 Fax: (217) 398-7721
Order No. Description
REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST
TOWA4050
TOWA4051
TOWA4052
TOWA4053
TOWA4054
TOWA4055
TOWA4056
TOWA4057
TOWA4058
TOWA4059
TOWA4060
TOWA4061
TOWA4062
TOWA4063
TOWA4064
TOWA4065
TOWA4066
TOWA4067
TOWA4068
Fuselage set
Upper wing set
Lower wing set
Tail surface set
Cowl
Landing gear
Wheel pants
Interplane struts
Cabanes
Canopy
Hatch
Belly pan
Thumb screw set
Lower wing bolts (2)
Spinner
Fuel tank
Decals
Tail wheel set
Engine mount set
CONTENTS
1. Cowl
2. Fuselage
3. Canopy Hatch
4. Top Wing
5. Bottom Wing
6. Horizontal Stabilizer
7. Vertical Stabilizer
8. Hardware / Wood Parts
9. Cabane Struts
10. Hardware
11. Wing Struts
12. Wheel Pants
13. Main Landing Gear
14. Canopy
15. Fuel Tank
16. Main Wheels
17. Spinner
18. Pushrods
1
7
13
4
10
16
2
8
14
5
11
17
3
9
15
6
12
18
5
PREPARATIONS
NOTE: If youre already familiar with iron-on coverings, you
may  nd that the covering on the Ultimate requires less heat
than other coverings you’ve worked with. Too much heat
causes seams and edges to separate as the covering tightens.
The optimum temperature measured on the surface of a cover
sock on a cover iron is about 280ºF [140ºC] which requires
a dial setting of about 300ºF [150ºC] or “medium” heat on
most covering irons. You can go a little higher if necessary,
but be careful around seams and overlapping edges. If the
covering blisters up and cannot be pressed back down, the
iron may be too hot, or you are leaving it in one location for
too longtry reducing the heat or moving the iron a little
faster. Another option is perforating the blister in a few areas
with a #11 hobby blade.
A covering iron with a cover sock is preferred over a heat
gun. With a covering iron you can apply heat only where
required. With a heat gun you may inadvertently overheat a
seam causing separation.
1. Use a covering iron with a cover sock to tighten any
loose covering. Wherever the covering is attached to wood,
press down on the iron to thoroughly bond the covering to
the balsa underneath. Where possible, reach inside the model
and support sheeted areas while tightening the covering to
prevent the sheeting from bending inward. If you’ll be using
the top wing aileron servos, also be sure to securely bond
the covering to the structure on the bottom of the top wing
around the aileron hatch openings. (The area of the hatch has
been outlined with a felt-tip pen for illustration in the image.)
2. Before proceeding with assembly, now would be a good
time to make sure all the hinges in the ailerons are secure.
Pull hard on each aileron to check the hinges. Apply thin CA
to any hinges that may not be secure.
Perform the steps 3 through 7 if installing aileron servos
in the top wing.
3. Use a hobby knife (or a 3/8" brass tube sharpened on
the end) to cut a hole in the bottom of the top wing where
shown for the servo wire.
4. Use a straightedge as a guide to cut the covering
approximately 3/16" [5mm] inside the edges of the aileron
hatch openings.
6
5. Slit the corners of the covering up to the corners of
the hatch opening.
6. Use a trim iron to bond the covering down inside
the openings.
7. Cut the covering from the servo arm openings and
the four screw holes in the corners of the top aileron hatch
covers. Use a trim seal tool to seal the covering around the
edges of the openings.
8. A few paper towels stacked on top of each other cut
into small squares will come in handy for wiping off excess
CA and/or epoxy as you proceed with assembly. For epoxy
clean up later, dampen the squares with denatured alcohol.
9. Glue the wood dowels into the bottom wing.
10. If powering your Ultimate with a glow engine, fuelproof
any areas that may be exposed to raw fuel or oily engine
exhaust such as the openings in the fuselage at the front
and back of the bottom wing, the front of the bottom wing,
inside the belly pan around the wing bolt holes and the back
of the  rewall.
7
ASSEMBLE THE WINGS
Install the Aileron Servos
Part of installing the aileron servos is deciding how you are
going to connect the servos to your receiver. If you’re using
only the two servos in the bottom wing you can connect them
with a standard Y-connector and guide the male end of the Y
that goes into the receiver out the wing. Or, you may connect
the servos to separate channels in your receiver mixing them
electronically through programming in your transmitter.
But if you’re using four servos there are even more ways to mix
the servos depending on how many channels are available in
your radio. One way would be to connect each aileron servo
to separate channels in the receiver, controlling them with a
programmable mix. The advantage here would be the ability
to independently adjust each servos sub trim and end points
for the ultimate in precision and tuning. But then at least a
7-channel receiver would be required and all the additional
servo extensions to connect each one to the receiver.
Another way is with a standard 2-aileron wing mix found
under the “wing type” mix in most transmitters. This mixes
two aileron servos, but then you will have to “Y” the top and
bottom servos on each wing half and will not have the ability
to adjust the sub trims and end points of each servo.
But since all options (other than controlling the servos
separately with four channels) eliminate adjusting the servos
independently with end points and sub trims, we just kept it
simple and “Y’d” the servos in the top wing to each other and
Y’d” the servos in the bottom wing to each other, thenY’d”
the “Y’s” together inside the fuselage into a single aileron
channel. The advantage with this option is only one servo
wire coming from the top wing which is simpler and more
aesthetically pleasing.
The following instructions illustrate installing and
hooking up the ailerons in the bottom wing. If installing
servos in the top wing too, simply perform the steps
for all four servos.
1. Trim one of the 5/16" x 9/16" x 3/4" [8 x 15 x 20mm]
servo mount blocks to accommodate the servo wire where
it exits the servo case.
2. Hold two
blocks to the servo
with thin cardstock
between the blocks
and the servo and
under the servo
between the servo
and your workbench
as shown. Drill 1/16"
[1.6mm] holes into
the blocks for the
servo mounting
screws.
3. Make another
aileron servo/mount
block assembly
mirroring the first
and drill the holes
and mount to the
servo.
4. Apply 30-minute epoxy to the bottom of the mount
blocks where they contact the hatch covers. Also wipe a
lm of epoxy onto the hatch covers where the mount blocks
will land. Wait a few minutes for the epoxy to soak into the
mount blocks, apply more epoxy if needed, then position
the servos on the hatch covers so the servo arms will be
centered in the cutouts. Use weights or clamps to hold the
servo blocks to the hatches until the epoxy hardened.
8
If installing all four aileron servos, this is what the servos and
hatch covers should look like.
5. Connect the bottom aileron servos to your receiver
(with or without a Y-harness; whichever is your preference)
with a battery and turn on your transmitter to power up the
system so you can operate the servos.
6. Fit servo arms on the servos positioned so the arms
will be angled forward approximately as shownits more
important to have the arms on each servo angled the same
than it is to have any precise angle. The arms just need to
be angled forward so the pushrods will be approximately
perpendicular with the servo arms when connected to the
control horn on the aileron.
7. Cut the unused arms from the servo arm and enlarge the
holes in the servo arm with a #50 (.070") drill for the pushrod
wires. Fasten the arms to the servos with the screws that
came with the servos.
8. Cut the covering from one of the servo wire holes in
the top of the bottom wing. Use the string in the wing to pull
one side of the 20" [508mm] Y-harness through the hole and
out one of the aileron hatch openings.
9. Connect the Y-harness to the servo and mount the
hatch/servo to the wing with M2.3 x 8 washer-head screws.
9
10. Pull the other end of the Y-harness through the other
side of the wing and mount the other hatch.
Hook Up the Ailerons
Refer to this image while mounting the aileron servos
and hooking up the ailerons.
Do the left wing  rst…
1. Thread a clevis about  fteen full turns onto a 4-3/4"
[120mm] aileron pushrod. Make a second assembly the
same way.
1/16" [1.5 mm]
Servo Arm
90º Connector
2. Bend and cut the pushrods to the correct length,
then connect the aileron servos to the ailerons using the
hardware shown. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes into the ailerons
for the M2 x 12 screws. After installing the screws, remove
the screws, add a few drops of thin CA to the holes, allow to
harden, then reinstall the screws. Adjust the clevises on the
pushrods so the ailerons will be centered when the servos
are centered.
M2 x 10
For Bottom Ailerons Only
Small Control Horn
Centered Behind
Mounting Plate
3. If not installing aileron servos in the top wing, mount
a small control horn to the top surface of the bottom ailerons
in the location illustrated in the image above and in the
illustration on the bottom of the column to the left.
ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE
Install the Horizontal Stabilizer
and Vertical Stabilizer
1. If you haven’t already done so, remove the masking tape
holding the elevators to the horizontal stabilizer. Any residual
glue from the masking tape can be removed with naptha
(lighter uid) and a small paper towel square. If necessary,
use your covering iron to tighten the covering.
2. Test- t the elevator joiner wire to the elevators. If the
elevators do not align with each other (as in the image), use
pliers to “tweak” the joiner to get the elevators aligned.
10
3. Temporarily bolt the bottom wing to the fuselage with the
two included nylon wing bolts. Slide the horizontal stabilizer
into position and view the model from behind. Check the
alignment between the stab and the wing. If necessary,
remove the stab and lightly sand the slot to align the stab
with the wing.
4. Perform a trial-run of  nal stab alignment before doing
it with glue;
A. Center the stab laterally taking measurements from both
sides of the fuselage.
B. Once the stab is centered, insert pins into the trailing
edge tightly against both sides of the fuselage to lock the
trailing edge into place.
A = A'
A
A'
C. Insert a pin into the fuselage centered over the stringer at
the front of the hatch opening. Use an inelastic string around
the pin with a line drawn on a strip of masking tape to check
rotational stab alignment. Slide the tape along the string and
rotate the stab until both tips align with the line on the tape.
11
5. Remove one of the pins from the trailing edge and slide
out the stab. Install the elevator joiner wire into the stab slot
in the fuselage, making certain to keep the correct orientation
so the elevators will align when re tted to the joiner.
6. Add a liberal amount of 30-minute epoxy to the top and
bottom of the exposed balsa in the middle of the stab. Be
certain not to forget to install the elevator joiner wire
into the stab slot as instructed in the previous step! Slide
the stab into place removing excess epoxy as you proceed.
Reinsert the pin to align the trailing edge and make sure the
stab is properly aligned as previously described with the string
and tape. Make sure you’ve cleaned up all residual epoxy
and do not disturb the model until the epoxy has hardened.
7. Test- t the vertical stabilizer ( n) into position. Make
any adjustments necessary for a good  t and to make sure
the  n is vertical, then permanently glue it into place with
30-minute epoxy. Use T-pins or clamps as necessary to close
any gaps between the  n and the  llet blocks. Any pinholes
from T-pins can be reduced later with a covering iron.
Hinge the Elevators and Rudder
1. Add a small drop of medium CA to the end of one of the
hinges. Insert the hinge halfway into one of the hinge slots in
one of the elevators—do not use any CA accelerator! This
will be just enough CA to keep the hinge from shifting while
joining the control surfaces to the stab and  n.
2. Tack-glue the rest of the hinges into the hinge slots in
both elevators.
3. After the CA has hardened and all the hinges are in
place, test- t the elevators to the stab and joiner. Make sure
the surfaces move easily and smoothly.
12
4. Remove the elevators. Add epoxy into the holes in the
elevators for the joiner wires. Rejoin the elevators to the stab
and joiner wire and wipe away excess epoxy.
5. Use a thin applicator tip to apply 6 drops of thin CA
to the top and bottom of each hinge waiting a few seconds
between drops for the hinges to absorb the CA. Excess CA
that doesn’t wick into the hinges can be absorbed with the
edge of a small paper towel square.
6. Test  t the tail gear. Same as was done with the elevator,
tack-glue the hinges into the rudder, then test- t the rudder
to the  n. Make any adjustments necessary for a good  t,
then remove the rudder and tail gear.
7. Using care not to get any epoxy into the hinge points
around the tail gear wire, insert the hinges into the fuselage
with 30-minute epoxy. Add epoxy into the hole in the rudder
for the “arm” part of the tail gear wire, then  t the rudder to
the assembly.
8. Permanently attach the rudder to the  n and fusealge
by gluing the hinges with thin CA.
9. After the CA on all the hinges has hardened, pull hard
on all the control surfaces to make sure they are secure and
all the hinges are thoroughly glued into place.
13
Hook Up the Elevator and Rudder
1. Thread a clevis onto two 26" [660mm] pushrods and
connect them to two large control horns. Mount the horns
to the elevator and rudder with M2 x 12 machine screws and
backing plates as shown.
2. Place the elevator and rudder servos in the servo tray
(enlarge the tray as necessary to accommodate your servos).
Install servo arms that will be perpendicular to the pushrods
as shown and cut off the unused arms.
3. With the surfaces centered, mark, bend and cut the
pushrods and connect them to the servos. You can bend
and cut the pushrods while they are in the fuselage, but it
will be easier to cut and bend them out of the fuselage (but
then the clevises will have to be temporarily removed so the
pushrods can be reinserted from the front of the guide tubes).
4. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the servo tray and
mount the servos to the servo tray with the screws included
with the servos.
5. You can temporarily connect the servos to the receiver
and operate the servos and adjust the length of the pushrods
now, or later when performing  nal radio setup.
Mount the Motor
If using a glow engine skip to Mount the Engine on page 16.
1. Mount the motor to an Electri y Brushless Motor Mount
for Medium Motors (not included), but do not use the M3
x 10 screws that came with the motor because they are
too long and may protrude into the motor and contact the
copper windings. Use M3 x 6 screws instead (DTXC8650
or HPIC0351).
2. Cut the brushless motor mount template from the
back of the instruction manual (or from the card that came
with the brushless motor mount) and tape it to the  rewall
aligning the cross marks. Use a pin to mark the mounting
screw holes into the  rewall.
14
3. Remove the template from the  rewall. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm]
pilot holes through the  rewall at the marks. Enlarge the holes
with a 13/64" (or 7/32") drill.
4. Use an M4 x 12 SHCS (socket-head cap screw) with a
stack of washers and a 3mm Allen wrench to draw the M4
blind nuts into the back of the  rewall.
5. Mount the brushless motor mount to the  rewall with
four M4 x 12 SHCS and M4 washers; it’s a little easier to rst
loosely fasten the mount with the bottom two screws, then
the top two screws before tightening them all down.
6. If necessary, ream or drill the back plate of the spinner
to  t on the prop shaft, then  t the back plate. Adjust the
mount so the back plate will be 4-3/4" [120mm] from the
rewall, then use a 3/32" Allen wrench to tentatively tighten
the screws on both sides of the mount to temporarily lock
the halves together.
Mount the ESC
1. You may copy the battery and ESC installation shown in
the manual, or do it another way if you have a different ESC.
However you mount the ESC, plan and test- t the battery
and ESC before cutting wires or performing any other steps
that cannot be undone. Here, the ESC has been temporarily
mounted to make sure it all  ts and to determine the wire
length. Now, we know the ESC will  t inside the cowl, but
the discharge wires from the ESC to the battery will have to
be lengthened.
2. Prepare your ESC as required to work with your setup.
For the Edge Lite 75 we extended the discharge wires an
additional 8-1/2" [215mm] and soldered the female 4mm
bullet connectors to the motor wires.
15
3. Mount the ESC, connect the ESC to the motor and
guide the discharge wires through the fuselage where they
can connect to the battery.
4. Attach a strip of the softer, “loop” side of adhesive-
back Velcro (not included) to the bottom of the battery and
strips of the rougher, “hook” side to the battery tray. Make
a battery strap (like one of the straps shown on page 18)
from the included Velcro strips and mount the battery to
the battery tray.
5. If the motor mount bolts protrude from the back of the
rewall, cut two 3" [80mm] pieces from the included 1/4" x
¼" x 8" [6 x 6 x 200mm] balsa stick. Glue the sticks to the
back of the  rewall to prevent the bolts from puncturing the
front of the battery in the event of a crash.
6. Install the battery tray making sure the front of the tray
keys into the short balsa sticks right behind the  rewall to
hold the front of the tray down. Fasten the battery tray with
one of the  nger-turn ¼-20 nylon bolts included. Make sure
the discharge wires from the ESC can reach the discharge
wires from the battery.
CAUTION: If powering the receiver and servos through
the BEC in the ESC, whenever operating the radio in the
workshop, be certain to do so without the propeller
mounted. Do not operate the radio with the propeller
installed until you are outdoors when checking the motor
or  ying the plane. If powering the servos and ESC with a
separate receiver battery, the radio may be safely operated
without concern for the propeller turning if the motor battery
is not connected to the ESC.
Skip ahead to Mount the Cowl on page 20.
16
Mount the Engine
The process for mounting a 4-stroke and a 2-stroke are the
same, but most of the instructions show a 4-stroke. Where
necessary or helpful, photos and notes for installing a 2-stroke
are also provided.
1. Mount a  at stick or the back plate of your spinner to
the engine. Hold one of the engine mounts to the engine
sliding it along the engine until the distance between the
back of the engine mount and the back of the spinner will
be 4-3/4" [120mm].
2. Holding the mount to the engine, mark one of the holes
in the engine onto the engine mount – a Great Planes Dead-
Center Hole Locator is indispensable for this.
You can fasten the engine to the mount with the included M3
x 25 cap screws and M3 nuts, or drill and tap M3 threads
into the mount so no nuts will be required.
3. If using nuts, drill a 1/8" [3.2mm] hole through the mark
made in the previous step. If you are going to tap 3mm
threads, drill a 2.4mm (or 3/32") hole through the mark – in
either case, use a drill press if you have access to one to
ensure the hole is perpendicular to the surface of the mount.
If you don’t have a drill press, do your best to hold the drill
vertically so the hole will be perpendicular.
4. If tapping threads, use a 3mm tap to thread the hole – if
care is used you can chuck the tap in a hand drill to make
the procedure easier and faster.
5. Fasten the engine mount to the engine with an M3 x 25
cap screw, an M3 lock washer and at washer and an M3
nut (if you didn’t tap threads). Mark the location of the other
engine mount bolt hole onto the mount.
6. Remove the mount from the engine. Drill the 2
nd
hole
in the mount and fasten the mount back onto the engine.
7. Position the other mount half on the other side of the
engine and mark and drill the holes the same way, then fasten
the mount to the engine.
8. If using an O.S. FS .72 or .46AX, cut the appropriate
Engine Mount Template from the back of the instruction
manual. If using a different engine, place your engine over
the templates to see if one of them happens to match the
mount hole spacing for the engine mounts on your engine.
17
9. If neither template matches the spacing of the mount on
your engine, you can make your own template out of one of
the existing ones. Measure the distance between the holes
of the mount halves.
10. Mark “crossmarks” on the vertical lines above and
below the centerline half the distance of the measurement
you came up with in the previous step.
11. Tape the template to the  rewall with the crossmarks
on the template aligned with the crossmarks on the  rewall.
Push a pin into the  rewall through the marks in the template
that align with the mounting holes in the engine mounts.
12. Remove the template from the  rewall. Drill 1/16"
[1.6mm] pilot holes through the  rewall at the pinpoints.
Enlarge the holes with a 13/64" (or 7/32") drill.
13. Use an M4 x 20 SHCS (socket-head cap screw) with
a stack of washers and a 3mm Allen wrench to draw the M4
blind nuts into the back of the  rewall. Note: If the top of
the engine mount box interferes with the top two blind nuts,
grind one edge of the blind nuts so they will  t.
18
14. Mount the engine mount to the  rewall with four M4
x 20 SHCS and M4 washers and threadlocker. (For the O.S.
.72, the engine mounts had to be temporarily removed from
the engine to insert two of the SHCS in the mount.)
Install the Fuel Tank
1. Remove the stopper from the fuel tank and shake out
the aluminum tubes and the silicone fuel line.
2. Assemble the stopper assembly with the pickup line as
shownthe aluminum tubes can easily be cut to length by
rolling them on your workbench under a hobby knife blade.
Option: Insert the third aluminum tube through the stopper
and attach another pickup line and clunk (not included) for
a fueling/defueling line so you won’t have to detach the fuel
line from the engine to fuel and as you will with a single-line.
3. Insert the stopper into the tank with the vent line at the
top of the tank. Write TOP on top of the tank (or just insert
the stopper with the vent at the side of the tank with the
molded-in logo and capacity).
4. Cut a 2" x 5-1/2" [50 x 140mm] sheet of ¼" [6.4mm] RC
foam rubber. Make two fuel tank straps from 8" [200mm]
strips of Velcro overlapping 5" [130mm]. Fasten the fuel tank
to the fuel tank tray and connect approximately 8" of fuel
line to each line coming out of the tank.
19
5. Install the fuel tank tray into the fuselage guiding the fuel
lines out the hole in the  rewall—make sure the front of the
tray keys into the short balsa sticks right behind the  rewall
to hold the front of the tray down. Position the tray as far
forward as possible without causing the lines to kink against
the engine, then secure the tray with one of the  nger-turn
¼-20 nylon bolts included.
Hook Up the Throttle
1. Plan your throttle setup. Determine where to locate the
throttle pushrod and the throttle servo (depending on the
location of the carburetor arm on the engine and locations
available for the throttle servo). The carburetor arm on both
the O.S. engines shown is above the fuel tank tray, so it’s
easiest to position the pushrod and servo above the tray
as well. The throttle servo may be installed in the servo tray
next to the elevator and rudder servos, but make sure the
servo won’t interfere with the wing bolt. If the throttle servo
will not  t in the servo tray, perhaps the servo arm on the
elevator or rudder servo could be  ip- opped allowing that
servo to be relocated to make room for the throttle servo.
Or, the throttle servo could be mounted on either side of the
engine mounting box inside the cowl.
2. Being certain to avoid the fuel tank, drill a 1/8" [3.2mm]
hole through the  rewall in-line with the carburetor arm for
the throttle guide tube – a 1/8" [3.2mm] brass tube sharpened
on the end makes this an easy job. Otherwise, the engine
will have to be removed from the rewall and the hole drilled
with a regular 1/8" [3.2mm] drill.
Thread-on retainer
(USE THREALOCKER!)
Screw-lock
M3 set screw
20
3. Cut the throttle guide tube and the throttle pushrod to
the correct length, then mount and connect the throttle servo
to the carburetor arm using the screw-lock assembly. Glue
one or two of the guide tube braces into position where
necessary to brace the throttle pushrod guide tube. Note:
The screw-lock assembly is a little tricky; do not over tighten
the thread-on retainer or else the screw-lock will not pivot in
the servo arm causing the throttle pushrod to bind. Because
of this, threadlocker must be used on the thread-on retainer
so it does not come off.
4. While we’re still working “under the hood,” mount the
muf er and connect the fuel line to the carb and the vent
line to the pressure tap off the muf er (the dangling fuel line
in the photo will be for fueling/defueling).
Mount the Cowl
Disregard the landing gear and wings that appear in following
images. Your landing gear and wings should not yet be
mounted.
1. Glue the ½" x ½" x 1" [13 x 13 x 25mm] hardwood
cowl mount blocks to front of the fuselage even with the
fuselage sides.
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Tower Hobbies Ultimate Bipe GP/EP ARF User manual

Category
Remote controlled toys
Type
User manual
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