FuzzDog Super Skwisher - Ross /Dynacomp/Boutique Compressor Operating instructions

Brand: FuzzDog

Model: Super Skwisher - Ross /Dynacomp/Boutique Compressor

Type: Operating instructions

Super Skwisher

Ross Compressor +++

No reproduction permitted without the express written

Important notes

If you’re using any of our footswitch daughterboards,

DOWNLOAD THE DAUGHTERBOARD DOCUMENT

•Download and read the appropriate build document for the

daughterboard as well as this one BEFORE you start.

•DO NOT solder the supplied Current Limiting Resistor (CLR) to the

main circuit board even if there is a place for it. This should be

soldered to the footswitch daughterboard.

COMPONENT SPECS

Unless otherwise stated in this document:

•Resistors should be 0.25W. You can use those with higher ratings but

check the physical size of them.

•Electrolytics caps should be at least 25V for 9V circuits, 35V for 18V

circuits. Again, check physical size if using higher ratings.

LAYOUT CONVENTIONS

Unless otherwise stated in this document, the following are used:

•Electrolytic capacitors:

Long leg (anode) to square pad.

•Diodes:

Striped leg (cathode) to square pad.

•ICs:

Square pad indicates pin 1.

Important OOPS!

The lastest run of the PCB was produced without labelling

on some of the pads.

They follow the standard Direct Connect layout:

The schematic above shows everything that is on

the PCB. Since the board is designed for several

different builds, not everything is used on each

build. The following pages will show only the parts

of the schematic relevant to each particular build,

though components not shown will still be

referenced in the BOM where a jumper is required

or it is left empty.

The cover image shows the previous version of

the PCB, prior to the addition of the LM13700.

Actual layout is below. CA3080 goes into the

pads marked in blue, LM13700 in red. See page 8

for a shot of a build on the latest PCB.

Schematic - full board

General Notes

The power and signal pads on the PCB

conform to the FuzzDog Direct Connection

format, so can be paired with the

appropriate daughterboard for quick and

easy offboard wiring.

Be very careful when soldering the diodes.

They’re very sensitive to heat. You should

use some kind of heat sink (crocodile clip

or reverse action tweezers) on each leg as

you solder them. Keep exposure to heat to

a minimum (under 2 seconds). You should

use a socket for the IC, or be super careful

not to overheat. Take your time.

Snap the small metal tag off the pots so

they can be mounted flush in the box.

Though the LM13700 isn’t shown on the

schematic, it can simply replace the

CA3080 in the build. Place it in the IC2

position. The legs correspond like this:

CA3080 LM13700

7 11

As long as you put your LM13700 in the

pads shown left it’s all done for you.

Stock Ross Compressor

R1 2M2

R2 10K

R3 470K

R4 470K

R5 10K

R6 10K

R7 1M

R8 1M

R9 220K

R10 220K

R11 15K

R12 150K

R13 10K

R14 10K

R15 1M

R16 27K

R17 1M

R18 10K

R19 150K

R20 Jumper

R21 56K

R22 27K

R23 2K2 (CLR)

R24 Empty

C1 10n

C2 220p*

C3 1u

C4 1u

C5 1u

C6 10u

C7 1u

C8 10u

C9 10u

C10 1u

C11 10n

C12 10n

C13 47n

C14 10n

C15 1n

C16 10n

C17 Empty

C18 Empty

D1 1N4001

D2,3 1N4148

Q1-5 2N5089

IC CA3080

T1 2K2

SUST 500KB/C**

LEVEL 50KA

CLIP Jumper 2 + 3

ATTACK Empty

S1 Empty

*100p will remove less treble than stock.

**Originally linear (B), but reverse-log (C) is better.

Put a jumper wire between pads 2 + 3 of CLIP.

To set the trimmer turn the Sustain pot up to full and

adjust trim for maximum sustain with no distortion.

R1 2M2

R2 10K

R3 470K

R4 470K

R5 10K

R6 10K

R7 1M

R8 1M

R9 220K

R10 220K

R11 15K

R12 150K

R13 10K

R14 10K

R15 1M

R16 27K

R17 1M

R18 10K

R19 150K

R20 10K

R21 56K

R22 27K

R23 2K2 (CLR)

R24 39K

C1 10n

C2 220p

C3 1u

C4 1u

C5 1u

C6 10u

C7 1u

C8 10u

C9 10u

C10 1u

C11 10n

C12 10n

C13 47n

C14 10n

C15 1n

C16 10n

C17 1n5

C18 Empty

D1 1N4001

D2,3 1N4148

Q1-5 2N5089

IC CA3080

T1 2K2

SUST 500KB/C

LEVEL 50KA

CLIP Jumper 2 + 3

ATTACK Empty

S1 SPDT ON-OFF-ON

See notes from previous page.

The SPDT switch will give you three different recovery

settings.

C17 will give more treble response.

Mark Hammer Mods

*In the original unit T1 is replaced by two 1K resistors.

A 2K2 trimmer set in the middle position will give the

same result and allow extra adjustment.

**150KB will be hard to source. See notes on next page.

R1 4M7

R2 10K

R3 470K

R4 470K

R5 10K

R6 10K

R7 1M

R8 1M

R9 220K

R10 220K

R11 15K

R12 150K

R13 10K

R14 10K

R15 1M

R16 27K

R17 1M

R18 10K

R19 Empty

R20 Jumper

R21 56K

R22 27K

R23 2K2 (CLR)

R24 Empty

C1 10n

C2 150p

C3 1u tant

C4 1u

C5 1u

C6 1u

C7 1u

C8 10u

C9 10u

C10 1u

C11 10n

C12 10n

C13 47n

C14 10n

C15 1n

C16 10n

C17 Empty

C18 2n2

D1 1N4001

D2,3 1N4148

Q1-5 2N3904

IC CA3080

T1 2K2*

SUST 500KC

LEVEL 50KB

CLIP 150KB**

ATTACK 150KB**

S1 Empty

Boutique 4-Knob

These are the CLIP pads that need jumpering

on the Stock and Hammer builds.

Those awkward 150KB Pots...

Not something that’s on every supplier’s stock list, so will be difficult to source. You

have couple of options here:

•Use 250KB and live with it. You get extra adjustment range that you may or

may not find useful. It’s not the end of the world.

•Use 250KB and add resistors in parallel to get closer to 150KB. This will,

unfortunately, change the sweep of the pot which may make it less useable

than the extra range given by the first option. The good thing is, you can try

option 1, add the resistors and see

how it works, then simply snip them

back off if you don’t like it.

To add the resistors, just solder them

across pads 1 & 3 of both pots as

shown.

A 250K pot in parallel with a 390K

resistor will give you 152K. Close

enough!

Replace the trimmer

Place the two 1K resistors for the 4-knob

version like this>>>

...and here’s a build on the newer PCB with the LM13700.

This is a two-knob with Hammer mods switch.

Note: the CLIP jumper has changed position since this build.

Test the board!

Check the relevant daughterboard document for more

info before you undertake this stage.

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES will troubleshooting help

be offered if you have skipped this stage. No exceptions.

Once you’ve finished the circuit it makes sense to test is before starting on the switch and LED

wiring. It’ll cut down troubleshooting time in the long run. If the circuit works at this stage, but it

doesn’t once you wire up the switch - guess what? You’ve probably made a mistake with the switch.

Solder some nice, long lengths of wire to the board connections for 9V, GND, IN and OUT. Connect

IN and OUT to the jacks as shown. Connect all the GNDs together (twist them up and add a small

amount of solder to tack it). Connect the battery + lead to the 9V wire, same method. Plug in. Go!

If you’re using a ribbon cable you can tack the wires to the ends of that. It’s a lot easier to take them

off there than it is do desolder wires from the PCB pads.

If it works, carry on and do your switch wiring. If not... aw man. At least you know the problem is

with the circuit. Find out why, get it working, THEN worry about the switch etc.

Your completed circuit board

including pots

(if using a daughterboard please refer to the relevant document)

Wire it up - DC only version

This circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be

Tip Negative / Sleeve Positive. That’s the same as your standard pedals

(Boss etc), and you can safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.

The BOARD GND connections don’t all have to connect to one point.

They can be daisy-chained around the circuit, using larger connection

points (such as jack socket lugs) for multiple connections. As long as

they all connect together in some way.

BOARD

OUT

BOARD

GND

BOARD

GND

BOARD

GND

BOARD

INPUT

OUT

BOARD

GND

BOARD

LED+

(if using a daughterboard please refer to the relevant document)

Wire it up - with battery

This circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be

Tip Negative / Sleeve Positive. That’s the same as your standard pedals

(Boss etc), and you can safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.

The BOARD GND connections don’t all have to connect to one point.

They can be daisy-chained around the circuit, using larger connection

points (such as jack socket lugs) for multiple connections. As long as

they all connect together in some way.

FuzzDog.co.uk

BOARD

OUT

BOARD

GND

BOARD

GND

BOARD

GND

BOARD

INPUT

BATTERY

OUT

BOARD

GND

BOARD

LED+

Just because the

FuzzDog enclosure

won’t take a battery,

there’s nothing

stopping you using a

bigger box.

Drilling template

Hammond 1590B

60 x 111 x 31mm

Recommended drill sizes:

Pots 7mm

Jacks 10mm

Footswitch 12mm

DC Socket 12mm

Toggle Switch 6mm

This template is a rough guide only. You should ensure correct marking of your

enclosure before drilling. You use this template at your own risk.

Pedal Parts Ltd can accept no responsibility for incorrect drilling of enclosures.

FuzzDog.co.uk

It’s a good idea to drill

the holes for the pots

1mm bigger to give

yourself some wiggle

room, unless you’re a

drill ninja.

32mm

27mm

14mm

FuzzDog Super Skwisher - Ross /Dynacomp/Boutique Compressor Operating instructions

FuzzDog Super Skwisher - Ross /Dynacomp/Boutique Compressor Operating instructions

FuzzDog Super Skwisher - Ross /Dynacomp/Boutique Compressor Operating instructions

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