Optima BARON User manual

Recumbent Bicycle

User’s Manual

We would like to extend special thanks to

Tim Biesemans, Mark Scherpenzeel and countless

other Optima customers whose many photos helped to

decorate the pages of this manual.

‘Zen and the art of Recumbent Maintenance’

First published 2002

All images and text

Optima V.O.F.

Congratulations and thank you, for buying an Optima!

Whether you bought your Optima for running errands, commuting to work

or recreation and exercise, we welcome you to the effortless, comfortable

and fast world of

recumbent bicycling!

Before taking your bike out for a ride, we ask that you read this brochure

fully – we know you’re itching to go!

We would like to express many thanks to our customers who supplied

many of the photos included in this manual.

We hope that this manual will help you to enjoy your bicycle for many

years to come.

About this manual

Why You Should Read This Manual

This manual was written to help you get the best of performance, comfort, enjoyment and

safety from your new Optima.

It is crucial that you fully understand your new recumbent bike; its features, characteristics

and operation, so that you get maximum enjoyment combined with maximum safety starting

with the rst ride. By reading this manual before you go out on your rst ride, you’ll know

how to get the most from your new Optima.

It is also important that your rst ride on a new bicycle is taken in a controlled environment,

away from cars, obstacles and other cyclists. This is especially important for individuals

who are not yet experienced in recumbent cycling, or for individuals riding a low slung

recumbent bicycle for the rst time. Do not overestimate your skills and potential. Riding

an unknown bike can lead to dangerous situations.

Optima strongly discourages riding your bicycle before reading the entire manual.

Caution! Whenever you see a grey box, be sure to read

it carefully. These boxes hold warnings and tips, some

crucial to the function or safety of your bicycle.

Warning! Bicycling can be a dangerous activity even in

‘optimal’ conditions. Proper maintenance of your recumbent

is your responsibility and it helps reduce the risk of injury

to yourself and others. This manual contains many Tips,

Warnings and Cautions which focus on important aspects

of your bicycle, its components and safe cycling. Many of

the Warnings and Cautions include text advising you of the

dangers which could “Lead to serious injury and damage to

your bicycle”.

Whenever any Warning! Or Caution! Boxes appear, keep

in mind that the following text is absent but applicable in all

cases:

Failure to follow this guideline could lead to a fall, damage to

your bicycle , serious injury and even to death.

We do not repeat this phrase everywhere because it would

give our manual a negative overtone. We all know how

much standard bicycle manufacturers warn you of the

dangers of cycling right? Keep in mind that this is true for a

recumbent, and that you have a reduced prole compared to

normal cyclists. Basically, be careful to ride with your head,

as well as your helmet, securely ON!

To the experienced Cyclist.

So you’ve been riding a bike all your life, know all the tips and tricks… you really don’t

need to read this manual, right?

WRONG.

Even if you’ve been riding a bike all your life, buying and riding a recumbent for the rst time

should be accompanied by an renewal of your cycling habits, knowledge and assumptions.

Why? Because bicycles are going through some pretty dramatic changes in the technology

which affects function, handing, comfort, performance and safety. A big example – the

difference between a standard upright bike and a recumbent! Please read this manual.

A point of attention for parents

It is a sobering fact that many cycling accidents involve children. Make sure that your

child always wears an approved bicycle helmet when riding. It is the responsibility

of a parent or guardian to ensure the safety of their child. This means that it is the parent

or guardian’s responsibility to ensure that their child can operate the bicycle, that it ts

the child properly and that it is well maintained. It is also your job to ensure your child

is educated in the laws of the road, common sense and trafc awareness, and wears

sufcient protective apparel. We strongly advise you read this manual if it is the manual

of your child’s bicycle.

GENERAL

SAFETY APPAREL 1

HELMETS 1

EYEWEAR 1

REFLECTORS 2

LIGHTS 2

MIRRORS 2

SUPPORT AND UPGRADING. 3

RESPONSIBLE CYCLING 4

GENERAL SAFETY MEASURES 4

WET WEATHER AND NIGHT TIME CYCLING 4

YOUR OPTIMA BICYCLE 5

SETTING UP YOUR BICYCLE 6

ASSEMBLING FROM THE BOX 6

1. INSTALLING THE WHEELS. 6

2. INSTALLING LINKAGE FRONT STEERING SYSTEMS 8

3. RIDER FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT 9

4. BRAKE ADJUSTMENT & BLEEDING 12

5. MOUNTING MUDGUARDS 13

6. FITTING THE SEAT AND RACK. 14

7. INSTALLING THE PEDALS 15

8. INSTALLING THE PEDAL BOOM 15

9. INSTALLING THE FRONT DERAILLEUR AND CABLES 16

10. TIRES AND CORRECT TIRE PRESSURE. 16

11. HANDLEBARS 16

12. SUSPENSION 17

13. CHAIN LINE AND PULLEYS 18

14. BRAKES. 19

15. MOUNTING THE AERODYNAMIC COWLING (BARON OPTION ONLY) 19

RIDING A RECUMBENT BICYCLE 22

BEFORE YOU RIDE 22

SHORT PRE-RIDE CHECKLIST. 22

THE FIRST RIDE 24

TRAVELLING ON YOUR RECUMBENT 25

COMFORT AND QUALITY ACCESSORIES FOR YOUR RECUMBENT 25

MAINTENANCE 27

RECOMMENDED PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 28

EACH TIME YOU RIDE 28

WEEKLY 28

QUARTERLY CHECKLIST. 28

TOOLS FOR MAINTENANCE 30

SERVICE TIPS 31

ADJUSTMENT OF THE HUBS. 31

HEADSET AND FRONT FORKS. 31

SPOKE TENSION 31

BOTTOM BRACKET AND CRANK 31

GEARS 31

STORAGE TIPS 32

TROUBLESHOOTING. 32

SUSPENSION

WHEELS AND TIRES

HUBS

CRANKS AND BOTTOM BRACKET

BRAKING

DERAILLEURS, CHAIN ROLLERS AND REAR CASSETTE

MISCELLANEOUS

FORKS AND HEADSET

PEDALS

OPTIMA BICYCLE MODELS 39

PERMITTED BICYCLE USAGE 40

RESOURCES 41

OPTIMA FACTORY 41

ACCESSORY LIST 41

WARRANTY 42

TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF GUARANTEE. 43

SERVICE RECORDS 45

WARRANTY FORM 51

General

Safety apparel

Many nations around the world, and their internal states, have strict requirements regarding

safety devices and their use in cycling. It is your soul responsibility to nd out what these

requirements are, in each and every state or nation you cycle and then follow them.

Helmets

‘If you don’t need a head, you don’t need a helmet’.

While not all nations and states require cyclists to wear approved protective headgear, we at

Optima strongly advise you to do so. Try to nd a helmet which complies to Snell, ANSI and

government safety requirements. Simple amoebic intelligence states that it is best to wear a

helmet (passed by these authorities) whilst cycling, whether the law requires it or not.

Many serious and fatal bicycle injuries could have been either reduced or avoided had the

cyclist been wearing a properly certied helmet. Your local bike store should have a range of,

or at least be able to order, helmets which suit your needs.

For more information on helmets, please contact your dealer or a local bike store, they will

be happy to supply you with a helmet.

Eyewear

Any cycling involves airborne bugs, dirt and other objects that are just waiting to get at your

eyes. Higher speeds can also make ones’ eyes water and impair your vision. For this reason

we advise you wear sufcient eye protection, in the form of a quality set of glasses in all

conditions. Most sports and bicycle stores sell protective and fashionable eyewear.

Tip! To increase your vision in all weather conditions,

we suggest you buy a good pair of sports glasses, with

interchangeable lenses in at least one dark colored lens and at

least one amber, clear or yellow lens.

Caution! A correct helmet should t properly, and be fastened

securely according to the instructions of its manufacturer. A

good helmet will protect according to Snell, AISI or stringent

government regulations. Failure to wear a good helmet correctly

could lead to serious injuries or even death, which may have

otherwise been avoided.

1

Reectors

Reectors are important safety features, which are an integral part of your bicycle.

Most authorities worldwide require bicycles to be tted with front, rear, wheel and pedal

reectors. The requirements of these reectors should be able to be found through your

local government. Reectors are designed to use other light sources – car headlights,

street lights and the such to increase your visibility to other road users.

Lights

If you ride your recumbent during or before dawn and dusk it must be equipped with a

lighting system approved by the local government. It is also prudent and advised to install

a lighting system if you ride during bad weather conditions as well. Your local bike store

or Optima dealer should be able to supply you with a good lighting set and advise you as

to the best choices.

Battery lighting systems have the potential to be much more powerful than generator

systems, but they weigh more and have a limited battery life. Their constant illumination

is an advantage for the urban evening commuter, who remains visible all the time.

Generator lighting systems will never run out of power, but require the cyclist to be moving

for the lights to function. These systems are generally lighter than battery powered lights,

but the more powerful you want them to be, the more rolling resistance the system will

produce. Generators can be housed in the standard tire rollers, or in the front hub.

Mirrors

Looking behind you on a recumbent bicycle is trickier than doing so on a standard bike.

For this reason Optima strongly recommends that you install at least one rear view

mirror, preferably on the left hand side of your bicycle for countries where trafc drives

on the right, and the right for countries where you drive on the left.

Caution! Check your reectors are securely fastened to your bike

regularly. Clean your reectors often, as mud and grime picked up

will limit the amount of light that can enter and exit the reector,

reducing its effectiveness. Do not allow baggage or yourself to

conceal or cover a reector.

Do not remove any reector from your bicycle

Warning! A good lighting system can never be substituted

for by reectors. It is your own responsibility to ensure your

bicycle is equipped with an acceptable lighting system, which

complies to the guidelines set up by your local authority. Failure

to follow this guideline may result in dangerous and fatal trafc

situations.

Caution! Be sure to install a WHITE front light and a RED rear

light on your bicycle. Failure to do so may violate local trafc

laws and will denitely compromise your safety.

2

Support and upgrading.

Although we strive to build ever higher quality products, your recumbent is not indestructible

and at some point something is bound to fail. With the constantly change and development of

the array of components available for bicycles, it is inevitable that at some point you will want

or have to replace a part or install a new one.

If you do not have your new component installed by a professional and approved Optima

mechanic, then make sure to fully read the instructions of the new component and carefully

follow the manufacturer’s installation procedure. Also make sure to conrm that the new part is

completely compatible with your bicycle and its current (OEM) setup. Just because you have

the ‘mechanical touch’ does not mean that you will know everything about a new component,

especially if it is a new type of an existing product, or a completely new idea.

A popular upgrade nowadays is the installation of suspended forks. Finding a suitable

suspended fork for a 20 inch front wheel can be a tricky process, and we advise you contact

your dealer or Optima before making any decisions for their advice. Keep in mind that installing

suspension forks will change the geometry of your bicycle and in turn, your recumbent’s riding

characteristics.

Another popular upgrade is to install disk brakes. Realize that in installing a disk brake, you

are loading the bicycle’s forks differently and you may be reducing their service life. The extra

braking power provided by disk brakes also increases the loading on the frame.

If at any point you are worried about compatability and specic components or have any other

questions, contact your dealer and they will be able to help you. Your dealer is there to help

you in making decisions and provide you with the help of somebody whose profession it is to

know everything there is to know about these bikes and parts. Asking his opinion will allow you

to get the best out of your bike, and avoid unpleasant surprises after buying a component.

3

Caution! Replacing, changing and upgrading the componentry

on your recumbent may have an effect on the bicycles warranty.

To avoid any unpleasant surprises, consult your Optima dealer

before making any changes to the original equipment of the

manufacturer. (OEM)

Responsible cycling

Recumbent cycling, like all other sports has its thrills and exhilarations, but also its dangers.

A cyclist is in control of his or her own vehicle, and his safety is primarily in his or her

own hands. Dangerous or unusual situations should be met with cautious behavior and

preventative measures from the cyclist him or herself - the rst of which is to slow down.

Both Optima and the local government cannot therefore be held accountable for your

mistakes or misjudgements.

General safety Measures

Wet weather and night time cycling

Slow down in the rain and increase the distance between you and your fellow road users.

Avoid busy or dangerous roads. Realize you can be partially hidden in the spray following

vehicles. If you have lights, we suggest you turn them on in the rain. Ride in a restrained

fashion. Brake earlier, and more gently than when it is dry.

We strongly suggest you buy bright, reective cycling clothes for bad weather or night riding.

We also suggest you stick to routes you already know when conditions are bad, this way

you will have a better idea of what to expect. Keep this in mind when riding in the rain.

Caution! Be sure to follow these guidelines to ensure your own safety.

· Always perform the pre ride checklist on page 18 before every ride

· Wear your helmet whenever you are on your bicycle

· Take care not to let the wheels, chainrings, chain, cables and other bicycle parts injure

you

· Recumbent pedals are higher than those of a normal bike, and are in a position that

your feet do not fall naturally, as they are on a standard bicycle. For this reason always

wear appropriate, fully closed shoes and buy a pair of ‘clipless’ pedals, to keep your

feet on the pedals. Do not use pedal straps.

· Know your bike and its controls.

· Control your speed. Speed is dangerous to you and strenuous to your bike.

· Stay rmly on the ground. Jumping a normal bicycle can be dangerous, but at least on

a normal bike you can move about to facilitate a safe landing. On recumbent bicycles

this is not the case. Do not jump whilst riding your bicycle.

· Wear highly visible clothing. Low swung recumbents, above all, should be ridden wearing

bright and visible colors to increase your chances of other road users seeing you.

· Ride as if you were invisible. Keep an eye on what is going on in the trafc around you.

The best way to avoid a collision is obviously to see it coming beforehand.

· Never overtake in a corner. Never. Because you are so low, its likley that Vehicle drivers

will not to see you and will drive you off the road or into the gutter. (this hurts!)

Caution! Precipitation signicantly increases your chances

of being involved in an accident. Wet weather reduces the

traction your bicycle has to the ground, it negatively effects

braking performance and it reduces visibility. These things

happen to you on your bicycle, and to all other road users.

4

Your Optima Bicycle

1

For parts found only on linkage steering models, please see gure 9.1. For parts found only on

the ‘Rider’ please see gures 10.1 and 12.1

Warning! Do not ride a bicycle that shows any sign of

malfunction or damage. Take your recumbent to a bicycle store

and do not ride the bike until the problem is xed.

5

1. Seat

2. Upper adjustable seat

xture and upper rack

xture

3. Lower rack xture

4. Lower seat xture

5. Handlebars

6. Gear shifting levers (can

vary in position)

7. Stem

8. Brake levers

9. Bike computer mount

10. Pedal extension tube &

fastening bolts

11.

Front derailleur post

12. Front derailleur mounting

sheath

13. Bottom bracket

14. Crankset

30. Rear brake (rim brake)

31. Wheel dropouts

32. Rear derailleur

33. Rear cog cassette /

Freewheel

34. Reector

35 Optima baggage rack

36. Chain

37. Rear shock absorber

38. Location of light generator

xture, left side. ( Not

on ‘Baron’, ‘Stinger’ or

‘Cobra’ )

39. Location of rear disk

brake xture, on left side

of bicycle.

15. Light xture (obscured by

chainwheels in photo)

16. Front chainwheels

17. Headset and Headtube

18. Front brake (rim brake)

19. Front (suspension) Forks

20. Hub

21. Wheel rim

22. Tire

24. Location of front disk brake

xture on the left side of bike

(not on all forks)

25. Valve stem

26. Mudguards

27. Rear suspension pivot point

28. Chain roller

29. Lower adjustable rear shock

mount

Setting up your Bicycle

Now that you have opened the box and unpacked your new bike – How do you get this thing

working?! Please follow the instructions and suggestions given in this chapter carefully, to

ensure you can start off your recumbent cycling addiction safely and securely.

Assembling from the Box

Your bike will arrive partially or fully assembled, depending on where you live. Now all you need

to do is follow the following steps in the order written, and you’ll be riding your recumbent in no

time! Some steps will only apply to certain models, in which case this will be clearly stated.

1. Installing the wheels.

For ease in construction and accessibility it is best to start by mounting the wheels. Optima

bikes come with either bolt on or quick release wheel fastenings, depending on the model

and specications.

The rear wheel is fastened using a quick release lever for standard

hubs and bolts for SRAM’s dual drive or 3x7 derailleur/hub gear

systems.

When removing or replacing any rear wheel, make sure the chain is

fed properly around the cogs on the wheel, as seen in gure 6.1.

Quick release fastening allow for fast installation and

removal of the wheels. Properly fastened quick release

wheels are in no way less safe than bolted wheels.

To install the wheel, simply pull the lever on the wheel

outward to the unlocked position (g 6.3). After unlocking

the mechanism, feed the wheel into the forks or the frame.

Ensure that the wheel is fully inserted in the frame, to prevent

the brakes dragging on the rim or disk. If the brakes drag

when the wheel is properly inserted, readjust the brakes.

Now press the lever to the closed position, as seen in gure

6.2. (The nut on the opposite side to the lever may need to

be tightened or loosened to allow for the closure of the lever

to clamp the forks properly). To remove the wheel, unlock the wheel by pulling the lever. You

may need to unscrew the bolt on the opposite side slightly to get the quick release skewer past

safety knobs on the dropouts. If you are not already experienced in the use of quick release

skewers, see the manufacturer’s procedures in the enclosed information package for proper

use. Otherwise ask the sales representative or a local bicycle store for assistance.

Warning! An improperly fastened quick release lever could lead

to the dislodging of the wheel during braking, leading to serious

injury and damage to your bicycle.

6

3x7 derailleur and hub gear system Installation and removal.

To install (or remove) the rear 3x7 wheel, rst put the left handlebar shifter to the lowest gear

(position on the grip 1). Feed the wheel into the frame ensuring that the cog cassette is on the

right hand side of the wheel, the same side as the rear derailleur. Now bolt the wheel to the

frame, using a 15 mm metric spanner. Once the wheel has been fastened, feed the shifting

linkage chain into the gear shifting roller and slide the shifting roller onto the hub axle stub

(g 7.1). You will hear and feel a positive click when it is properly engaged. Now track the link

chain around the roller.

The next step is to connect the shifting chains threaded stub with the shifting cable connection

unit. This is done easily, by simply feeding the stub into the unit, as seen in images 7.2 and 7.3.

Feed the connector unit onto the stub to the point at which most of the slack is gone from the

shifting cable and release the block. Now check that the handlebar shifter units can engage

all three gears. If the top gear cannot be engaged, you will need to loosen the connector unit

and allow a little more slack in the cable.

To move or remove the connection unit from the shifting chain stub you will need to pinch

the unit at it’s end, pressing the small square plate of brass in to release the ratchets which

prevent the unit from slipping (see g 7.2) To clamp the unit to the stub again, simply release

the button

7

Dual Drive derailleur and hub shifting system wheel installation and removal.

The hub will need to be bolted onto the frame using a 15mm spanner. Once bolted on you can

install the gear shifting linkage unit.

Start by putting the thumb lever on the handlebar shifting unit to the leftmost setting, with one

dot. When you look at the hub connection unit, the yellow indicator in the small window should

be as close to the axle hole as possible, (g.7.5). Next, you will need to press the black shaft

sticking out of the top of the connection unit in fully so that it sticks out of the bottom of the

unit. This will not be possible if the thumb shifter is not in position 1.

2. Installing linkage front steering systems 10.4

Setting up the steering linkage (All 2 and 3 wheel linkage steering models)

You will now need to connect the master to slave steering linkage. This may have already been

done, depending on where you live. You may however need to disconnect and connect the

linkage at some time anyway. To disconnect the linkage, pull the safety pin off the shaft (gs 8.2

and 8.3) and pull it out of the hole at the foot of the socket and shaft (g 10.4). To (re)connect

the linkage, make sure the safety pin is removed. Then push the linkage’s socket onto the

slave joint ball (seen bare in g 10.5) Once the socket is correctly around the ball joint, you will

be able to slide the safety pin back into the socket’s ange (g 10.7). If the pin will not go in,

the socket is not properly on the ball joint. This may require some force. If you cannot do it by

hand, give the socket moderated a tap with a rubber mallet to connect the joint properly. Once

properly on the ball joint, (Fig 8.7) replace the safety pin and clip it fully over the linkage shaft,

and it will snap itself closed. For instructions on aligning the steering system, please go to the

next page, and read the section entitled ‘Aligning linkage steering systems’.

Warning! Make sure that the gears work properly before

riding your bicycle. Badly adjusted gears could lead to the chain

skipping or jumping off the cogs resulting in frame and spoke

damage, and potentially dangerous trafc situations.

8

Once you have done this, feed the unit onto the protruding hub axle stub

on the right, derailleur hand side of the bike. Once you cannot push the

unit any further, reach your nger underneath the unit and push the shaft

back up as seen in gure 7.6. If the shaft will not move, remove and ip

over the unit and push the black lever inside the unit down towards the

unit’s base (as seen in g 8.1) and try again. It should now work.

3. Rider Front wheel alignment and installation

9

All export models of the ‘Rider’ are delivered without the front wheels fully assembled. Please

follow these instructions carefully to ensure you install the wheels properly. Failure to do so

may result in hub damage, breaking malfunction and serious resultant injuries.

Assemble the wheel to the

frame, in the order depicted

in gure 9.1, with the braking

slave unit on the front side

of the hub as in g 9.2. The

brakes will have been aligned

before shipping so all you

need to do is mount the

wheel as shown in g 9.2 and

fasten the axle bolt tightly. If

the wheel bolt is not sufciently

tightened, the brakes will drag

and the wheel may work itself

loose.

While screwing the hubs in,

gently squeeze the brake levers a few times, to ensure that the hub shells are well centred.

If one or both of the brakes drag, you will need to adjust them. This should not be necessary

for the rst assembly. To see how to adjust the brakes, see section 4 on page 12, brake

adjustment & bleeding.

Fig

9.2,

rider

Measuring up front wheels (‘Rider’ only)

The front wheels should have been properly

aligned on the factory oor, but will need periodic

adjustment. To adjust the rider’s wheels, begin

by making sure that neither of the front wheels

has any buckling in it. Buckling will bring error

into the necessary measurements and will result

in a relatively large error in the setup. Also

ensure all steering plates are securely fastened.

Once the rims have been made true, point

them straight ahead and measure the distance

between the leading edge of the inner side of the

brake rim on both wheels (L.E., gure 10.1), and

the distance between the trailing edge (T.E.) of

each inner side of both rims across the bicycle.

Take the average of these measurements,

subtract 2 mm, and this will be your guideline

2

.

Once you have taken these measurements, cut

one length of wood or string (preferably wood)

to the length you have just dened. Once you

have cut it, nd the half way point on the beam

or string and mark this point clearly. Be sure to

do this accurately! Now that you have got all of

the necessary measurements, you can start the

alignment process.

Aligning linkage steering systems.

The rst step is to ensure that the steering master block (A, gure10.1 and 11.2

– present on all linkage steering models) is parallel to the central slave steering

block (C, or the front fork) . See gure 12.1 for an example. Do this by using a

50cm (20 inch) ruler, or any object you know to be perfectly straight of similar

length. Remove the integrated lower seat xture and chain guide

3

to get an

unobstructed line between the two steering elements. Now get your ruler and

hold it along the side of the master and central slave steering blocks as seen

in gure 11.2. For forks, allign the wheel with the master block. If the slave

block or fork points to the right when the master block is straight (gure 10.2),

you will need to shorten the linkage bar. If the steering block points to the left

(gure 10.3, you will need to lengthen the linkage bar. Do this by loosening the

locknut (g 11.2, G), then loosening the head socket of the linkage (g 11.2,

F) from it’s plate and screwing it in or out to adjust the length of the linkage.

Retighten the locknut once you have the linkage at the correct length.

1

3

Part numbers 4 & 28, Figure 5.1 ‘Your optima Bicycle’

10

Fig 10.3

11

Once the two steering blocks are in

line, you will need to adjust the slave

to wheel linkage bars (E, g 10.1). This

process requires that the handlebar be

pointed straight ahead, and remain

that way until the process is nished.

Failure to do so will result in your

wheels not being properly in line.

You will now need to use the wooden

beam or string length you just cut and

prepared. Remove the pedal boom

from the frame, as you will need to

use the cut in the bottom of the frame

where the boom fastening bolts are

to align the wheels precisely, using

the half way mark you made on your

balancing beam or string. Hold the

alignment beam or string perfectly

horizontal with it’s center point at

the groove (see g. 11.1) Using this

groove as a guide, align each wheel

individually by undoing one end of the

steering linkage bar, undoing the safety

locknut on the free end and moving the

end socket in or out by twisting it on

its thread. Align the wheel by replacing

the socket in the wheel’s steering plate

to check whether the center point lines

up with the frame when in contact with the inner surface of the rim. Once you have aligned

both wheels, check that the handlebar is still pointing straight ahead. The alignment beam or

string should now just touch both rims, when it’s center point is at the groove in the frame, as

seen in g. 11.1.

4. Brake adjustment & bleeding

All brakes wear with time and temperature variations can sometimes lead to the necessity

to adjust the brakes. Most braking systems on Optima bicycles come with a separate

manufacturer’s information package containing a complete instruction manual. Please refer

to these manuals to set up and adjust your brakes.

‘Rider’ hub brakes

There are three main ways of adjusting the brakes: by the bolts holding the slave piston, by

the adjustment on the slave piston and via a small Allen key on the brake lever.

To make any major adjustments to the brakes on the two front wheels, move the upper xing

bolt on the brake slave unit (E, g. 12.1) up or down on the adjustment holes on the braking

torque arm (F). If the brakes are only slightly out of adjustment, you can make small adjustments

by pulling the rubber boot on the under side of the slave cylinder down off the ridge on the

cylinder body. This will reveal a notched surface on the slave piston (K, g 12.1) which can be

adjusted with a 8mm spanner. Turn it clockwise whilst looking down the body of the cylinder

to the piston to tighten the brakes and counter clockwise to loosen them.

If at any point you remove the Braking torque and steering arm (I, g. 12.1) you will need to

replace it as follows. First, mount the hub on the bike/wheel xture block (I, g 9.1) making

sure that the inner hub spacer (F, 9.1) and the hub inner shell (E, 9.1 and A, 12.1) are well

centered on the bike/wheel xture block. Once you have screwed the hub in reasonably rmly,

Tighten the Steering arm base bolt (G, 12.1) slightly, followed by the braking torque bolts (H,

12.1). Once you have snugged both sets of bolts in, securely fasten the steering arm base

bolt before the braking torque bolts.

Another method of setting up the ‘Rider’ brake, is to adjust the reach of the brake lever. Please

refer to the enclosed Magura info package for information on how to do this.

12

A) Hub inner shell

B) Hub ange

C) Bike / Wheel xture block

D) Brake actuation lever

E) Hydraulic slave unit

F) Slave unit adjustment holes

G) Steering arm base bolt

H) Braking torque bolts

I) Braking torque and Steering arm.

J) Steering linkage fastening point

K) 8mm Brake adjustment socket on slave unit

L) Brake slave unit cylinder

5. Mounting mudguards

If you ordered mudguards with your bicycle, they will be fast and

easy to install.

Remove the wheels from two wheeled bikes and the rear wheel

from the rider to install the mudguards. For the rear wheel, screw

the mudguard to the bicycles rear fork at its base, using the rubber

spacer and bolt provided. (Fig 13.3), placing the spacer between

the mudguard and the frame. Now attach the support rods to the

rear swingarm via bolt holes located at the top of the swingarm,

right above the wheel dropouts. (These are similar to normal bike

rack mount points, but not to be used for racks.) See g 13.2.

Once you have attached these support rods (13.3, b), you will need to attach them to the

mudguard itself. This is done using the headless clamping bolts (a), nuts (d) and holders (c)

supplied. Feed the rod through the eye of the holder, insert the holder into the metal attachment

arm of the mudguard and screw the bolt onto it, clamping the rod in place (g 13.1).

Rider mudguards fasten to the braking

torque arm and steering plate, on the

front and rear bolt, as seen in gure 13.4.

The installation procedure is the similar

to two wheeled bicycles, however you

do not attach the base of the mudguard

to the frame and only x it from one side.

This construction may look weaker than

the double side frame secured method

but the rods are strong enough to hold

the mudguard in place, as long as it is

installed properly.

13

Fig. 13.1 Fig. 13.2

Fig. 13.3

Bleeding Hydraulic brakes

For those who can bleed their brakes properly, Optima offers standard and Rider bleeding kits

to its customers

4

1

, which come with a complete instruction manual. Please contact optima for

a bleeding kit, using the address found on page 30, resources.

6. Fitting the seat and rack.

4

Rider kit comes with an extra syringe and lead for the dual slave system. This special kit is

cheaper than buying two Magura service kits, which you would otherwise have to do.

For low handlebar models, please go to step 10 on page 17 rst. The seat must be installed

using the rubber spacers, 3 & 6 mm Allen keys and the 10 mm bolts provided. The seat

mountings allow for adjustment of the angle of the seat, of approximately 5 degrees (g

14.2). The seat mounting frames are fastened using a 6mm allen key, and a 5mm allen key

on the bolt holding the seat frame and chain router on the lower right hand side. The rack

xes to the frame using the upper seat xtures and the bolts half way down the seat support

tube.

If you own a Orynx or Dolphin, your rack, if you ordered one, will be different from the rack

on the bicycle shown in gure 1.1. This rack fastens onto the same points as the standard

rack, but it integrates the upper seat frame. (g. 1.1, part numbers 2 and 35) The Stinger

rack fastens to the upper adjustable seat mounting, and is connected to the seat itself with 4

bolts instead of two.

Tip: When adjusting the angle of your seat, you will need to

change the extension of the pedal boom slightly. If you lay the

seat back, reduce the extension of the boom. If you bring the

seat upright, lengthen the boom extension slightly.

Caution! Do tighten the bolts holding the seat onto the seat

frame over 6 NM

-1

. Failure to follow this guideline will either

immediately crack your seat, or reduce it’s service life. Let the

Caution! Bleeding hydraulic brakes of air is a potentially

dangerous process if not done correctly. We strongly advise

that you get your brakes bled by an experienced bicycle

mechanic if you are not absolutely certain that you can do it.

14

5

This requires a special tool: a chain breaker or pin pusher. Go to your local bike store if you don’t

know how to use one or are not condent in adjusting your chain, as a badly connected chain will

break.

7. Installing the Pedals

Now get the Pedals, and slightly grease the thread on

them. Feed the pedal thread into the cranks manually,

remembering that the left hand pedal has an inverted

thread (To tighten, turn counter-clockwise.) The right

hand side has a normal thread (turn clockwise to tighten).

Caution! The pedal boom MUST NOT be extended beyond

the point at which the end of the boom is less than 10

mm inwards from the inner of boom clamping bolt (A, fig

16.2). Failure to follow this guideline will result in increased

fatigue and potential failure of the frame of your bicycle.

15

8. Installing the pedal Boom

Loosen the screws on the bottom of the frame where the boom enters the frame feed the boom

into the frame, ensuring the derailleur post, if present, is on top and the chainwheels are on

the right hand side of the boom, in the direction the bike travels. If you own a condor or a rider,

keep in mind that for any extension or shortening of the pedal boom, you will need to undo

the derailleur cable rst. When you cut the cable to length, take note that doing so will limit the

extent to which you can extend the boom in future, without buying a new inner cable.

Start the setup process by setting your seat in the most upright position possible. Now adjust the

length of the pedal boom up so that your knee is slightly bent when your heel is on the pedal at

it’s full extension. Make sure that you feel comfortable with the setting – some people like their

pedals closer than others. If you did not tell us your leg length in the ordering procedure you

will now need to adjust the chain length

5

, as described on page (XX). If you have short legs,

you may even need to cut down the pedal boom to allow for the bike to be set up correctly. We

advise you do to a local bike store to have this done. If you cannot or wish to do it yourself,

use a good jig and a sharp metal saw to cut the pedal boom down.

To get the pedal boom aligned properly in rotation, line the boom up with the seat and handlebars.

Once you have the boom properly aligned, tighten the bolts rmly.

9. Installing the Front Derailleur and cables

The cable will have been fed through the boom during the manufacturing process, and you will

see the end of the cable (B, Fig 15.2) sticking out of the boom just below the front derailleur post

(C). Bend the cable round and feed it into the cable stop (D), on the left hand side of the front

derailleur boss (again, in the direction the bike travels). For exact tuning of the front derailleur

please see the instruction manual of the manufacturer, included with your bicycle information

package. Align the derailleur so that the chain passes parallel to the front derailleur’s cage, by

loosening the clamp on the derailleur clamp sheath (E, g 15.2). This will avoid the necessity

to readjust the cable. Now that you have set up the extension and derailleur, you may want to

cut the front derailleur cable to length. Only do this if you are condent you can do it properly!

11. Handlebars

If you bike is delivered in a box, some handlebars may not be mounted. For understeer models

mount the handlebar and stem before the seat, using a 6mm allen key. Adjust the angle of

the handlebar so that it falls into your hands comfortably whilst they are in a straight line with

regard to your wrist. Otherwise adjust it to an angle that feels natural to you. A properly adjusted

handlebar will reduce fatigue all the way up to your shoulders and neck. For above steering

models, you may need to install the stem. (turn page)

10. Tires and correct tire pressure

To ensure proper traction and safety, tires must be inated to the correct pressure (60–100% of

max, unless otherwise stated). If the pressure is too low, the rolling resistance will be signicantly

higher than usual and the tires will wear at a faster rate. If it is too high, the tires will deform

and eventually fail. The max tire pressure and often the advised range can be found on the

sidewall of the tire, in both p.s.i. and bar. Some tires will also have an arrow indicating their

intended rotational direction.

Tip: if two people will be using the bike, to install the front

derailleur (inner and outer) cable length according to the

settings of the tallest user!

Warning! Make sure your tires are properly inflated as

described above before riding. A tire at low pressure will

cause more drag, wear faster, and may lead to handling

problems or even tire folding in emergency maneuvers.

16

Installing a above steering tiller is a simple process. Start by

feeding the stems base onto the fork steerer tube, makins sure that

the clamp ring is abound the base of the stem (with exeption of the

baron stem, see the next paragraph for baron instructions). Once

the tiller is slid onto the steerer tube, lean it forwards and insert the

top clamping screw into the hole at the top of the stem. Tighten this

screw Untill all paly is gone from the bearing races. Then swing the

stem back and align it with the front wheel. Now tighten the collar

around the stems base to lock the stems angle. Both tillers can be

adjusted in angle by screwing the angle adjustment screw in or

out. The universal tiller can be adjusted in reach, by loosening the

screw in the collar clamp of the top seaction and sliding it in or out.

For the Baron, Slide the stem onto the forks steerer tube, then

place the headset cap on top of it. Insert the bearing pressure screw and tighten it untill all

play is gone from the bearings. Now allign the stem with the front wheel and tighten the bolt

found behind the steerer tube and under the stems arm.

12.Suspension

The suspension will have been fully prepared in the Optima factory.

No further work is necessary, however you may want to tune the

suspension preload

6

to suit your weight and riding style. If you

have an air shock absorber, adjustment will require a special high-

pressure pump, available from better bicycle stores. If you have a

coil spring shock absorber, adjusting the preload is easy. Simply

twist the spring and bracket on the stationary body, clockwise to

increase the preload and counter clockwise to reduce it. This will

cause the bracket to move up or down on its thread, and cause the

pre compression factor to increase or decrease, resulting in a softer

or harder feel to the suspension (see g 19.1). Further adjustment

is possible by moving the lower xture to another of the three

anchoring holes on the rear wheel fork (see image to the right).

The further from the pivot point the lower xture is, the harder the

suspension will be. Correctly set up suspension will sag about 1/5

into its travel when the cyclist sits on the bike. This setting ensures

the suspension will function correctly and effectively.

Optima bicycles are equipped with a spring that is best suited to rider’s weights of 60–100kg

(130- 220lbs.). If you fall outside of these bounds, you may want to consider visiting a good

bicycle store, which should be able to help you nd a new spring that suits your weight.

6

Preload is the precompression factor of the spring. This denes and how soft or hard the suspension

function will be. Increasing it will make for a rougher ride, decreasing it will result in a smoother ride.

Ask your dealer for tips on optimal setup for all conditions.

Tip: If you are carrying lots of baggage (on the rack or frame)

you will need to tighten the spring preload, relocate the lower

xture and maybe even buy another spring to ensure proper

suspension function.

17

13.Chain length and Pulleys.

Pulleys

Each Optima bicycle is equipped with at least one chain guiding pulley, which

will not need much maintenance. These pulleys both guide the chain and

prevent the bicycle’s rear suspension from being inuenced by pedalling

forces. The fastenings for the pulleys double as anchorage points for the

protective chain tubes, which reduce the amount of dust that gets to your

chain and protect your clothing.

It is crucial that the chain is guided over the pulleys correctly, as failure to do so could result

in damage to the bicycle frame and seat. Make sure that the larger diameter pulley (70mm /

3 in diameter) guides the chain as it goes from the top of the rear cog cassette, to the top of

the front chainwheels of the crank.

The three low swung Optima’s (Baron, Cobra and Stinger) have 1 or two return pulleys to

allow for better clearance

for steering (g 18.1). These

smaller pulleys were only

designed to take a minimal

load, and incorrectly routing

the chain will brake them and

their ttings. The rest of the

optima range has one pulley

for the upper driving side of

the chain, and use a long

ared tube to guide the chain

back to the rear cassette.

Chain length.

With the pedal boom set

up at the correct extension

and the chain routed past all

pulleys and through all tubes, put the chain into the smallest front chainwheel and smallest

rear cog. The rear derailleur’s chain tensioning arm

should now be pointing backwards, as seen in g. 18.3.

(the two teethed pulleys are attached to the tensioning

arm) If the arm points downwards, lengthen the chain

slightly. If it points upwards slightly or the chain is not held

tense and hangs, shorten the chain.

You will need a special tool for this: a chain pin pusher.

Push out the pin of the chain totally, and reconnect the

chain using the included bronze coloured superlink. To

release the superlink, squeeze the two plates together

and slide their pins together.

18

Fig 18.1 Baron, Cobra and Stinger chainline

Standard chainline

Fig 18.2 Chain length setup

19

14.Brakes.

The brakes may need slight adjustment out of the box bus should be working properly.

Optima sets up its bikes so that the right hand brake lever is for the rear brake, and the left

hand lever is for the front.

Be careful in learning to use the brakes on a recumbent – the rear wheel will break out easily

if you use them over zealously. On a recumbent you cannot move around like on a normal

bike, making a recovery more difcult.

15.Mounting an aerodynamic fairing (Baron

Option)

A correctly installed fairing will reduce

your wind resistance by 10%, giving

you a competitive edge or that extra

bit of range on a ride. Follow these

instructions carefully and you will look

back – but only to see all the people

you’ve passed! A fairing kit can be

ordered from any official Optima

representative and includes a Fairing,

bolts, spacers, a support arch and a

seat attachment plate.

The rst step in installing a fairing is

to put your seat all the way back, or to the position you wish to keep it in once the cowling is

installed. (The fairing will not t properly if the seat is more than half way upright.)

Now nd the included

template for the cut-

out for the wheel

and derailleur on

the underside of the

fairing, shaped like g

19.1. Make double and

triple sure to align the template properly, with the side marked derailleur side, on the correct

side of the fairing! (All you need to look for is ‘inside template side’ When this text is facing

YOU, the side facing down is the side described in the text.) Read the last sentence between

brackets again, because if you mess up here you can’t go back a step!!!

Tip: It is important that the fairing ts you like a glove: any

openings will effectively turn your fairing into a parachute

giving the opposite effect to what you want! Ask your optima

representative for hints and tips if you are uncertain of

anything.

Once you have aligned the template correctly, trace the shape of

the template onto the shell and remove the template. Now get the

tin cutter or saw with the breglass cutting blade and cut away. You

may need to trim the form slightly to get a good t. Again, make sure

you use the special bre glass sawblade if you use a jig saw.

Now mount the rear fairing arch to the holes near the rear dropouts

on the frame, making sure to place a spacer between both the bolt

and arch, and arch and frame. Check that the bolt on the right hand

(derailleur and cogset) side does not scrape against the cassette

or interfere with shifting in any way. Also make sure that the arch

is well centred over the rear wheel. Remove and bend the arch if it

is not properly centred.

Drill one hole in the back of your seat using a 6mm drill bit,

approximately 5cm (2 inches) from the top of the seat, along its centreline.

Now that you have your drill handy, proceed to drill a hole in the top of the

fairing, approximately 32cm (12.5 in) from the seat side of the top ridge of

the shell. Use this hole to attach the fairing to the rear fairing support arch,

using the nut, washer, rubber spacer and low prole bolt provided. Place

the rubber spacer between the fairing and the top of the wheel arch. (See

g 20.2) All connections between the cowling and xture points should use

the included rubber spacers, between the inner side of the shell and the

xation point. Always place a rubber spacer between objects to be connected

to the fairing and the fairing itself.

You will need one of two tools to cut the form out: a Jig saw or a tin cutter. If you don’t have

either of these tools we suggest you buy or rent one. If you use a jig saw, you must use a

special breglass saw on it, or the polyester of the fairing will spit and crack from the vibrations

created by cutting the fairing. This may all cost more, but it will cost less than ordering a new

fairing and the results will be much more satisfying in the long run. You will also need a pair of

safety glasses, gloves and preferably a long sleeve top and

long pants: Polyester shards are sharp and when they get

into your skin, they can cause a rash and irritation that could

last for about 10 days. Not protecting yourself whilst working

is foolish, and the chances are high you will wish you had

followed these guidelines after working if you don’t.

20

Fig 20.2

Fig 20.1 Jig saw & tin cutter

Be sure to nd one of these: a composite / bre glass saw blade

Once you have found a comfortable position, (nd someone to help you

here if possible) mark the position that the hole for the bolt is against

the underside of the fairing, using a sharp implement or paint marker (g

21.2). You will need to reach you hand back up inside the cowling to do

this. Make sure the upper bolt is tightly fastened so that the attachment

plate doesn’t move. Now ip the cowling back and use a sharp implement

or a paint marker to mark one of the lower bolt hole on the seat plate’s

position against the seat. Drill a hole in both the cowling and the position

you marked on the seat, and fasten both points using the bolts and rubber

spacers provided. Drill the second hole you marked in the base of the

seat now and fasten the top plate properly.

Now that you have the fairing xed to the wheel arch and seat, it is time to drill and x it to

the bottom of the seat. Do this by aligning the lower arms of the fairing to the underside of

the seat and tape the bottom of the fairing to the seat securely making sure that the wheel

does not scrape against the back end of the fairing in doing so. Now drill a hole through

both the fairing and the seat from the bottom up (g 21.3). Attach the lower sides to the seat

using the low prole bolts, rubber spacer and bolts provided. You may now need to trim the

fairing to allow wheel clearance (g 21.1).

That’s it – your aerodynamic fairing is installed!

Make sure you put your seat all the way back again, attach the cushion to the seat, and sit

down on the bike. If anyone else is round now would be a good time to ask for a little help.

Fix the seat attachment plate to the seat using the included rubber spacers and washers.

The longer arm of the seat attachment plate should be bolted to the hole you drilled in the

seat. Swing the cowling, now attached to its arch, down onto the plate, and start adjusting

the cowlings vertical and horizontal position by moving the seat plate up and down. Set

up the height and horizontal position of the fairing so that it ts ush to your shoulders just

behind their peak, making sure the t as close as it possibly can be. Make sure the seat

cushion is on the seat during this adjustment, otherwise you will be setting the fairing up too

low and it will be less comfortable and less effective.

21

Riding A Recumbent Bicycle

Before you ride

Before you take your beast out on the streets, take a moment on your bike to get used to the

new seating position and point of view that your Optima provides. Remember that in such a low

position, automobile drivers may not see you! For this reason we urge you to please exercise

caution whilst riding in trafc! Do not overtake in corners, this is extremely dangerous. Optima

strongly advises you to consider installing a (kiddy bike) ag on your bike if you ride in trafc

often, as this will increase your visibility to other road users signicantly.

Once you are used to riding in the recumbent position we advise that you use a ‘clipless’ pedal

system. These pedals can take a little while to get used to, but they will allow for much more

comfortable riding and result in less leg fatigue, as it takes more effort to keep your feet on the

pedals of a recumbent than a normal bicycle!

For your convenience and safety please make sure that the Bicycle ts you properly and

that you have followed all instructions for assembly as shown in the chapter ‘Setting up your

Bicycle’ before riding.

Short pre-ride checklist.

Brakes

Pull each brake lever to make sure there is no stickiness and that the brakes are properly

centered and engage the rims or disk properly, without scufng the tires. Check that they can

exert enough pressure to stop the bike. If your brakes are too tight or loose, adjustments should

be made. Please refer to the original manufacturers manuals, enclosed in the information

package and to the troubleshooting section of this manual.

Quick Release Levers

Please ensure that all wheels are securely and properly fastened before stepping on the bike.

Check that the quick release levers are rmly in their closed positions (see gures 6.2 & 6.3).

Failure to do so could result in a serious accident and injury.

Tires and wheels

Ensure that your tires are properly inated and that the wheels run true between your forks and

frame. Gas station pumps inate tires very rapidly, but the pressure gauges may be inaccurate.

We suggest you inate your tires using a hand pump and an appropriate pressure gauge to

read the pressure

7

. Grasp each wheel rmly and try to move it side to side. There should be

no noticeable play. If there is excessive play, ensure you have tightened the hubs before riding,

as this play may cause braking malfunction.

Seat

Ensure that your seat is securely fastened to the frame before mounting your recumbent bicycle.

See section 6, page 14: ‘tting seat and rack’ for more details.

7

Please contact your bicycle dealer for an appropriate pressure gauge or pump.

22

23

Operating the gear changing systems.

Optima bicycles are supplied with three main types of gear shifting systems, Shimano trigger

shifters, SRAM twist shifters and Shimano bar end shifters. Each of these systems has it’s own

merits, and the choice for either comes down to nothing more than personal preference. To shift

twist shifters, twist the grip. To shift Shimano shifters, pull the trigger with your pointer or push

the lever with your thumb. To shift the bar-end levers, bend them forwards and backwards.

The right hand gearshift activator operates the rear derailleur; the left hand operates the front

derailleur. You must be pedalling to operate derailleur gear shifters.

Pushing Shimano thumblevers will generally push the chain to a larger cog and pulling the

trigger will move the chain to a smaller cog. Twisting gripshift grips downwards will generally

move the chain into a larger cog, and forwards back to smaller cogs. Pushing barend shifters

down shifts to larger cogs, pulling them back up goes to smaller ones. Generally the direction

with the most resistance is moving to a larger cog.

Hub gears will work whilst pedaling or whilst standing still, but generally weigh more than

derailleur systems and are easier to maintain. Derailleur shifters are lighter and more easily

serviced, but are more open to the elements than a hub geared system.

If you want to shift into a harder gear at the front (Left) you will have push the derailleur to a

larger cog. To go to a faster gear in the rear (right), you will need to shift to a smaller cog. Whilst

this is at rst confusing, it will in time become second nature. As far as the position of the chain

on the cog goes; the closer the chain is to the centerline of the bike, the easier the bike is to

pedal and the slower you go. The further out it gets, the harder it is to pedal and the faster you

will go. Regard the front cogs as three speed ranges, with the rear allowing adjustment of this

range. Major speed changes will use the front derailleur. Smaller ones will use the rear.

Moving the chain towards the centerline of the bike is called ‘downshifting’ and moving it away

from the centerline is called ‘upshifting’

Tip: It is best not to put the chain into both small sprockets.

Riding in this gear combination could damage the rear

derailleur and will lead to irritating ‘chain slap’ noise, as

well as increased chances of the chain falling off the front

chainwheels

Caution! Do not shift derailleurs when you are standing still,

or backpedal whilst shifting. This may damage your shifting

system or lead to a fall.

The First Ride

Warning! Take it easy when riding your bike for the rst 2

months. Riding a recumbent hard straight away will easily

overload your knees, and there is nothing worse than having a

new bike… and being unable to ride it!

Now that you have checked the bicycles basic mechanisms, go out onto a quiet street or

alley, away from trafc and take your rst spin on the bike. So… how do you ride one of these

things? Just set your eyes on the horizon, and GO! Starting for the rst time on a recumbent

can be a hairy experience, but you will be surprised just how fast you get used to riding on

your new bike. Riding a recumbent for the rst time is all about commitment. In the words of

a well-known shoe manufacturer, Just do it!

The basic skills and feelings are exactly the same as on a traditional bike, just now you feel

like you are riding on a couch! We strongly advise that you wear a helmet if helmets are

not already compulsory for cyclists in the country where you live.

Put your preferred leg on the upper pedal, bent and ready to push as hard as you can. Just like

on a normal bike, the faster you go on a recumbent the easier it is to stay upright. ‘Just testing’

your bike slowly will generally lead to you not even being able to take your other foot off the

ground. This may require a little courage – but it is denitely courage that will be rewarded!

Relax your arms and body – a tense body makes even a normal bike hard to ride. Now that

you have the foot of your preferred leg on the pedal and other holding you upright (g. 24.1,

A), you will need to push rmly on that pedal. Don’t look around you and decide where you

will fall – that is setting yourself up for failure. Look into the distance, loosen up, (you should

be able to steer with your ngertips) put all your weight on the seat, swallow your adrenaline

and go! Once you are moving, quickly, yet smoothly, bring your other leg up from the ground

(B) and put it on the other pedal ready to deliver the second power stroke(C). It may take a

few tries to build up the courage to do this, but soon we will be able to say ‘Congratulations!

You are now riding your Optima!’

24

Fig

24.1

25

Travelling on your recumbent

Never thought of yourself as one to go on a bicycle holiday? Or maybe you have always

dreamed of a bicycle holiday? Optima bicycles are more than suited to travel on; almost all

Optima recumbents can be tted with bicycle pannier racks and special carrying bags to allow

for luggage transportation. You cannot however t any old bicycle rack to an Optima, you will

need to order the specially made Optima racks. These racks have been designed to carry

loads of up to 20 Kg on the Stinger and Baron, and 50Kg on all other models. Remember to

keep the weight as low as possible when packing your bike bags, as top-heavy bags will raise

the center of gravity and negatively inuence your bikes handling. Single wheeled baggage

trailers will have a greater inuence on the handling of your recumbent than a normal bike.

Be sure to pack them with the center of gravity as low as possible. Remember that loading

your bike will mean having to change suspension settings or even replacing the spring. (See

setting up your bicycle: suspension).

Please contact the dealer you purchased your Optima from for more details about bags and

racks .

Tip: Remember to shift to the lowest gear before you stop,

especially when you’re carrying extra luggage on the bike

Comfort and quality accessories for your

recumbent.

Optima manufactures a number of accessories for the improvement

of cycling comfort which can be ordered at any time from any sales

point. These accessories are, amongst others, a headrest, soft

handlebar grips, seat covers, a tailbox with luggage compartment

for the stinger and an adjustable stem for above steering models.

All these accessories are made of high quality durable materials,

are easy to install, and add to both the comfort and looks of your

recumbent.

The headrest is adjustable in height, with a hygienic breathing cover

which can easily be removed for machine washing. This headrest

is made with quality stainless steel rails and low prole bolts that

Optima seat covers are made from the same

durable and hygienic machine washable

material as the headrest cover, fitting all

standard sized optima seats cushions. These

covers look great and will make your cushion

and clothes last much longer.

Another handy option, exclusively designed

for the stinger, is the aerodynamic luggage

tail box. This luggage carrying fairing

attaches simply and securely to the

integrated rack and upper seat arch,

giving you a dry and secure space to carry your

things as well as an aerodynamic advantage,

all in one attractive unit. All you need to

do to install it is place it on the rack, drill through

the rack and tailbox at two points and fasten the

included bolts.

An exotic accessory from optima is the

carbon fibre seat, weighing in at a mere

675 grams, compared to around 1350 for a

standard medium seat. This seat is stiffer and

lighter than normal seats, giving a lighter bike

and more efcient cycling, not to mention the

beauty and allure of life’s most basic building

block, carbon.

26

27

Maintenance

To keep your Optima working optimally you will need to carry out periodic maintenance. This

chapter outlines necessary periodic control and maintenance. We strongly advise you order

the parts listed in the ‘Accessories’ section of this manual from Optima or one of Optima’s

dealers only. This is for your own safety, to ensure you get the right parts.

Keeping your recumbent bicycle properly maintained is very important. Use the following outline

as a guide for repair and maintenance intervals. Many of these tasks are easy to do oneself,

but we recommend that you let an expert do the more challenging work (Working on hydraulic

brakes, truing buckled wheels, etc.). If you have any questions about how best to maintain

your bicycle, please feel free to contact your Optima dealer or Optima’s headquarters in the

Netherlands. (Address can be found in the last chapter of this book; ‘resources’.)

Certain parts such as the spokes and cables will ‘set in’ after the rst few rides, and related

systems may require some adjustment to maintain optimal functionality.

This maintenance schedule is based on normal usage. If you ride your bike more than average

or in adverse conditions, you may want to go over your recumbent more often than the manual

suggests. (carry out a quarterly check every month, for example) If any part malfunctions or

seems to be broken, immediately adjust or repair it yourself, or seek the help of a professional.

Do not ride a bicycle that is not functioning properly.

This maintenance schedule is based on normal usage. If you ride your bike more than average

or in adverse conditions, you may want to go over your recumbent more often than the manual

suggests. (carry out a quarterly check every month, for example) If any part malfunctions or

seems to be broken, immediately adjust or repair it yourself, or seek the help of a professional.

Do not ride a bicycle that is not functioning properly.

Recommended periodic maintenance

Each time you ride:

· Check your brakes work properly.

· Check that your gears work properly.

· Make a quick visual inspection of the bike to check for other faults.

· Check that quick release levers are securely fastened.

Weekly

· Clean off you bicycle and make a quick visual inspection of major parts

· Check tire pressure and general state of the tires

· Check brakes for correct function and adjust them if necessary.

· Adjust malfunctioning gears and lubricate the chain if dry.

Quarterly checklist.

Brakes

· Check that the brake pads meet the disk or rim accurately and do not scuff the tires.

· Check your brake blocks for wear.

· Secure break mounting bolts.

Cables

· Check all cables for damage, kinks or wear. Replace as needed.

· Take the cables out of their housings and clean them, also checking for kinks in the wire

(replace if there are major kinks, as a cable may snap there if not replaced!

· Readjust gears and brakes to compensate for cable stretch.

Wheels

· Check hubs for excessive play or noise. Disassemble, re-lube and tighten the hub if you

encounter any of these.

· Check that your rims are true, and inspect them for ange denting and wear.

· Make sure that all the spokes are tight and equally loaded, check for kinks in the spokes.

Replace damaged spokes.

Warning! Failure to follow these guidelines could allow

faults or badly adjusted components to go unnoticed, until a

resultant crash!

28 29

Tires and inner tubes

· Check tire pressure: Low tires will require more effort to keep rolling, and may be dangerous

in emergency maneuvers.

· Inspect tire tread and sidewalls for wear, splits and general integrity. Replace the tire

immediately if you can see the tire carcass or have any doubts on the state of the tire.

· Replace inner tubes with more than about 5 patches – these will generally leak slowly

anyway.

Derailleurs

· Check the sideways travel of the derailleurs, checking that the limiting screws keep the

derailleur away form the spokes and frame.

· Clean the rear derailleurs cogs and derailleur arm. Check cog bolts for proper tension.

· If the adjustment barrel on your derailleur and/ or shifters is signicantly screwed out,

its time to undo the cable bolt on the derailleur, screw the adjustment barrels in and

retighten the cable.

Drivetrain

· Inspect chain to ensure it is in a good state, with no seized links.

· Lubricate chain, clean beforehand if necessary. Don’t forget to clean the cogs if you clean

the chain! If you want to remove the chain, remember that all Optima bicycles come with

superlinks in the chains that can be taken apart with the hand.

· Inspect chainwheels and rear cassette, for wear and broken teeth. Worn teeth begin to

resemble shark ns.

· Check that the chainrings are true, and are properly tightened to the crank.

· Check that the rear cog cassette is securely fastened to the rear wheel. Tightening the

cassette requires a special tool.

· Check that the chain protection tubes are securely fastened to their ttings. A loose tube

may cause to chain to jump off the cogs unexpectedly or damage the derailleurs.

· Inspect and lube the chain rollers. Inspect the chain track; these are consumable products

which wear down, and will need replacement.

Headset

· Check for excess play or a ‘sandy’ feeling. Tighten or re-lubricate as necessary.

· Re-lubricate headset if the grease is dry or dirty.

· Check the lubrication of the Riders wheel xing / steering slave blocks.

Check the alignment of the handlebars

Pedals, Cranks and Bottom bracket.

· Check pedals for cracks and other damage.

· Test the pedals for smoothness, and inspect lubrication. Clean and re-grease if

contaminated.

· Make sure that the pedals are securely fastened to the cranks.

· Make sure that the cranks are securely fastened to the bottom bracket axle.

· Ensure the bottom bracket is securely tightened inside the frame.

· Check the bottom bracket for smoothness and for excess play. If you have a cartridge

bottom bracket, replace when dysfunctional.

Suspension

· Dismount and clean rear shock absorber. Remove spring and depress shaft of the damper

into the shock body. Make sure this goes smoothly, and that there is no oil residue on

the Stanchion after its return.

· Clean and inspect suspension pivot points. Lightly grease shock absorber bushings.

Make sure not to use excessive lubricant, as this will attract dirt and may even increase

the rate of wear at the pivot points.

· Clean suspension fork sliders. Lubricate as advised in manufacturer’s manual.

· Ensure that the suspension pivot points twist freely, without excessive play. This includes

the bushings on the shock absorbers.

Miscellaneous.

· Check tubes and frame for damage or damage to paint.

· Check that all nuts and bolts are fastened securely. Be careful not to over-tighten bolts.

Tools for maintenance

This section will cover which tools are necessary for maintenance of your Optima recumbent

bicycle, and will give a list of recommended extra tools. All fastenings on Optima bicycles have

standard metric sizes.

Allen Keys

· 2mm

· 2.5mm

· 3mm

· 4mm

· 5mm

· 6mm

· 8mm

· 10mm

(Rider wheel bolts)

Spanners/ Wrenches

· 8mm

· 9mm

· 10mm

· 13mm

· 15mm

30

Reccomended:

Chain Cleaner

Screwdrivers

31

Service tips

Adjustment of the hubs.

Both hubs on your bicycle must be correctly adjusted to minimize wear and tear. A hub that is

set too tightly or with too much play will wear faster than a correctly adjusted hub. The correct

play is approximately 0.3mm (0.012 in) at the rim. To readjust the hubs, remove them from the

bicycle. The front hubs can be adjusted from either side, but the rear hub may only be adjusted

on the left side (opposite to the cogs and freewheel assembly).

Hubs must be lubricated with grease on the bearings, with the area around the seals kept free

of grease, as this will attract dust and grit. Do not oil the bearings, as this will slowly erode

the grease lubrication.

Headset and front forks.

Due to the considerable stresses this area of your bicycle can undergo, correct adjustment is

important. Check that the headset in which the fork rests is free of play. We suggest you let

your Optima dealer deal with any excess play. If the headset cannot be adjusted such that no

play is present whilst offering no resistance to turning, please contact a local bike store. Check

regularly that the headset is fastened securely. For the Rider, ensure that the steel tube and

copper bushings on the steering slave blocks are properly greased.

Spoke tension

Spokes are an essential part of your bicycle and badly adjusted spokes will have a

negative inuence on the stability of your bicycle. Tensioning spokes is a specialized task,

which requires experience and insight. For this reason we advise you have tensioning done

by a professional. A few weeks after purchasing your bicycle we strongly recommend that you

have your spokes checked for tension

Bottom bracket and crank

The bottom bracket and cranks must be free of play. Check regularly that the chainwheel bolts

are securely tightened and that the cranks are securely fastened to the bottom bracket. Any

maintenance of the bottom bracket requires special tools and is best left to a professional

bicycle mechanic.

Gears

Your gears will need periodic adjustment to keep them working optimally. Cables stretch and

cable housings compress slightly after use, so adjustment may be necessary reasonably soon

after purchasing the bicycle. If you are uncertain how to adjust the gears, please refer to the

documentation of the original manufacturer, included in the information package. If you are

still hesitant, please take

your bike to a local bicycle store to be tuned up. Many Optima Bicycles require special extra

long gear shifting cables. Please contact Optima or your dealer for information.

Warning! A loosely spoked wheel can result in your bike handling badly,

in normal and particularly in extreme conditions. Make sure your wheels

are well maintained by a properly qualied bicycle mechanic.

Page is loading ...

Optima BARON User manual

Optima BARON User manual

Other documents