Recumbent Bicycle
User’s Manual
We would like to extend special thanks to
Tim Biesemans, Mark Scherpenzeel and countless
other Optima customers whose many photos helped to
decorate the pages of this manual.
‘Zen and the art of Recumbent Maintenance’
First published 2002
All Rights reserved, 2002
All images and text
Optima V.O.F.
Congratulations and thank you, for buying an Optima!
Whether you bought your Optima for running errands, commuting to work
or recreation and exercise, we welcome you to the effortless, comfortable
and fast world of
recumbent bicycling!
Before taking your bike out for a ride, we ask that you read this brochure
fully – we know you’re itching to go!
We would like to express many thanks to our customers who supplied
many of the photos included in this manual.
We hope that this manual will help you to enjoy your bicycle for many
years to come.
About this manual
Why You Should Read This Manual
This manual was written to help you get the best of performance, comfort, enjoyment and
safety from your new Optima.
It is crucial that you fully understand your new recumbent bike; its features, characteristics
and operation, so that you get maximum enjoyment combined with maximum safety starting
with the rst ride. By reading this manual before you go out on your rst ride, you’ll know
how to get the most from your new Optima.
It is also important that your rst ride on a new bicycle is taken in a controlled environment,
away from cars, obstacles and other cyclists. This is especially important for individuals
who are not yet experienced in recumbent cycling, or for individuals riding a low slung
recumbent bicycle for the rst time. Do not overestimate your skills and potential. Riding
an unknown bike can lead to dangerous situations.
Optima strongly discourages riding your bicycle before reading the entire manual.
Caution! Whenever you see a grey box, be sure to read
it carefully. These boxes hold warnings and tips, some
crucial to the function or safety of your bicycle.
Warning! Bicycling can be a dangerous activity even in
‘optimal’ conditions. Proper maintenance of your recumbent
is your responsibility and it helps reduce the risk of injury
to yourself and others. This manual contains many Tips,
Warnings and Cautions which focus on important aspects
of your bicycle, its components and safe cycling. Many of
the Warnings and Cautions include text advising you of the
dangers which could “Lead to serious injury and damage to
your bicycle”.
Whenever any Warning! Or Caution! Boxes appear, keep
in mind that the following text is absent but applicable in all
cases:
Failure to follow this guideline could lead to a fall, damage to
your bicycle , serious injury and even to death.
We do not repeat this phrase everywhere because it would
give our manual a negative overtone. We all know how
much standard bicycle manufacturers warn you of the
dangers of cycling right? Keep in mind that this is true for a
recumbent, and that you have a reduced prole compared to
normal cyclists. Basically, be careful to ride with your head,
as well as your helmet, securely ON!
To the experienced Cyclist.
So you’ve been riding a bike all your life, know all the tips and tricks… you really don’t
need to read this manual, right?
WRONG.
Even if you’ve been riding a bike all your life, buying and riding a recumbent for the rst time
should be accompanied by an renewal of your cycling habits, knowledge and assumptions.
Why? Because bicycles are going through some pretty dramatic changes in the technology
which affects function, handing, comfort, performance and safety. A big example – the
difference between a standard upright bike and a recumbent! Please read this manual.
A point of attention for parents
It is a sobering fact that many cycling accidents involve children. Make sure that your
child always wears an approved bicycle helmet when riding. It is the responsibility
of a parent or guardian to ensure the safety of their child. This means that it is the parent
or guardian’s responsibility to ensure that their child can operate the bicycle, that it ts
the child properly and that it is well maintained. It is also your job to ensure your child
is educated in the laws of the road, common sense and trafc awareness, and wears
sufcient protective apparel. We strongly advise you read this manual if it is the manual
of your child’s bicycle.
GENERAL
SAFETY APPAREL 1
HELMETS 1
EYEWEAR 1
REFLECTORS 2
LIGHTS 2
MIRRORS 2
SUPPORT AND UPGRADING. 3
RESPONSIBLE CYCLING 4
GENERAL SAFETY MEASURES 4
WET WEATHER AND NIGHT TIME CYCLING 4
YOUR OPTIMA BICYCLE 5
SETTING UP YOUR BICYCLE 6
ASSEMBLING FROM THE BOX 6
1. INSTALLING THE WHEELS. 6
2. INSTALLING LINKAGE FRONT STEERING SYSTEMS 8
3. RIDER FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT 9
4. BRAKE ADJUSTMENT & BLEEDING 12
5. MOUNTING MUDGUARDS 13
6. FITTING THE SEAT AND RACK. 14
7. INSTALLING THE PEDALS 15
8. INSTALLING THE PEDAL BOOM 15
9. INSTALLING THE FRONT DERAILLEUR AND CABLES 16
10. TIRES AND CORRECT TIRE PRESSURE. 16
11. HANDLEBARS 16
12. SUSPENSION 17
13. CHAIN LINE AND PULLEYS 18
14. BRAKES. 19
15. MOUNTING THE AERODYNAMIC COWLING (BARON OPTION ONLY) 19
RIDING A RECUMBENT BICYCLE 22
BEFORE YOU RIDE 22
SHORT PRE-RIDE CHECKLIST. 22
THE FIRST RIDE 24
TRAVELLING ON YOUR RECUMBENT 25
COMFORT AND QUALITY ACCESSORIES FOR YOUR RECUMBENT 25
MAINTENANCE 27
RECOMMENDED PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 28
EACH TIME YOU RIDE 28
WEEKLY 28
QUARTERLY CHECKLIST. 28
TOOLS FOR MAINTENANCE 30
SERVICE TIPS 31
ADJUSTMENT OF THE HUBS. 31
HEADSET AND FRONT FORKS. 31
SPOKE TENSION 31
BOTTOM BRACKET AND CRANK 31
GEARS 31
STORAGE TIPS 32
TROUBLESHOOTING. 32
SUSPENSION
WHEELS AND TIRES
HUBS
CRANKS AND BOTTOM BRACKET
BRAKING
DERAILLEURS, CHAIN ROLLERS AND REAR CASSETTE
MISCELLANEOUS
FORKS AND HEADSET
PEDALS
OPTIMA BICYCLE MODELS 39
PERMITTED BICYCLE USAGE 40
RESOURCES 41
OPTIMA FACTORY 41
ACCESSORY LIST 41
WARRANTY 42
TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF GUARANTEE. 43
SERVICE RECORDS 45
WARRANTY FORM 51
General
Safety apparel
Many nations around the world, and their internal states, have strict requirements regarding
safety devices and their use in cycling. It is your soul responsibility to nd out what these
requirements are, in each and every state or nation you cycle and then follow them.
Helmets
‘If you don’t need a head, you don’t need a helmet’.
While not all nations and states require cyclists to wear approved protective headgear, we at
Optima strongly advise you to do so. Try to nd a helmet which complies to Snell, ANSI and
government safety requirements. Simple amoebic intelligence states that it is best to wear a
helmet (passed by these authorities) whilst cycling, whether the law requires it or not.
Many serious and fatal bicycle injuries could have been either reduced or avoided had the
cyclist been wearing a properly certied helmet. Your local bike store should have a range of,
or at least be able to order, helmets which suit your needs.
For more information on helmets, please contact your dealer or a local bike store, they will
be happy to supply you with a helmet.
Eyewear
Any cycling involves airborne bugs, dirt and other objects that are just waiting to get at your
eyes. Higher speeds can also make ones’ eyes water and impair your vision. For this reason
we advise you wear sufcient eye protection, in the form of a quality set of glasses in all
conditions. Most sports and bicycle stores sell protective and fashionable eyewear.
Tip! To increase your vision in all weather conditions,
we suggest you buy a good pair of sports glasses, with
interchangeable lenses in at least one dark colored lens and at
least one amber, clear or yellow lens.
Caution! A correct helmet should t properly, and be fastened
securely according to the instructions of its manufacturer. A
good helmet will protect according to Snell, AISI or stringent
government regulations. Failure to wear a good helmet correctly
could lead to serious injuries or even death, which may have
otherwise been avoided.
1
Reectors
Reectors are important safety features, which are an integral part of your bicycle.
Most authorities worldwide require bicycles to be tted with front, rear, wheel and pedal
reectors. The requirements of these reectors should be able to be found through your
local government. Reectors are designed to use other light sources – car headlights,
street lights and the such to increase your visibility to other road users.
Lights
If you ride your recumbent during or before dawn and dusk it must be equipped with a
lighting system approved by the local government. It is also prudent and advised to install
a lighting system if you ride during bad weather conditions as well. Your local bike store
or Optima dealer should be able to supply you with a good lighting set and advise you as
to the best choices.
Battery lighting systems have the potential to be much more powerful than generator
systems, but they weigh more and have a limited battery life. Their constant illumination
is an advantage for the urban evening commuter, who remains visible all the time.
Generator lighting systems will never run out of power, but require the cyclist to be moving
for the lights to function. These systems are generally lighter than battery powered lights,
but the more powerful you want them to be, the more rolling resistance the system will
produce. Generators can be housed in the standard tire rollers, or in the front hub.
Mirrors
Looking behind you on a recumbent bicycle is trickier than doing so on a standard bike.
For this reason Optima strongly recommends that you install at least one rear view
mirror, preferably on the left hand side of your bicycle for countries where trafc drives
on the right, and the right for countries where you drive on the left.
Caution! Check your reectors are securely fastened to your bike
regularly. Clean your reectors often, as mud and grime picked up
will limit the amount of light that can enter and exit the reector,
reducing its effectiveness. Do not allow baggage or yourself to
conceal or cover a reector.
Do not remove any reector from your bicycle
Warning! A good lighting system can never be substituted
for by reectors. It is your own responsibility to ensure your
bicycle is equipped with an acceptable lighting system, which
complies to the guidelines set up by your local authority. Failure
to follow this guideline may result in dangerous and fatal trafc
situations.
Caution! Be sure to install a WHITE front light and a RED rear
light on your bicycle. Failure to do so may violate local trafc
laws and will denitely compromise your safety.
2
Support and upgrading.
Although we strive to build ever higher quality products, your recumbent is not indestructible
and at some point something is bound to fail. With the constantly change and development of
the array of components available for bicycles, it is inevitable that at some point you will want
or have to replace a part or install a new one.
If you do not have your new component installed by a professional and approved Optima
mechanic, then make sure to fully read the instructions of the new component and carefully
follow the manufacturer’s installation procedure. Also make sure to conrm that the new part is
completely compatible with your bicycle and its current (OEM) setup. Just because you have
the ‘mechanical touch’ does not mean that you will know everything about a new component,
especially if it is a new type of an existing product, or a completely new idea.
A popular upgrade nowadays is the installation of suspended forks. Finding a suitable
suspended fork for a 20 inch front wheel can be a tricky process, and we advise you contact
your dealer or Optima before making any decisions for their advice. Keep in mind that installing
suspension forks will change the geometry of your bicycle and in turn, your recumbent’s riding
characteristics.
Another popular upgrade is to install disk brakes. Realize that in installing a disk brake, you
are loading the bicycle’s forks differently and you may be reducing their service life. The extra
braking power provided by disk brakes also increases the loading on the frame.
If at any point you are worried about compatability and specic components or have any other
questions, contact your dealer and they will be able to help you. Your dealer is there to help
you in making decisions and provide you with the help of somebody whose profession it is to
know everything there is to know about these bikes and parts. Asking his opinion will allow you
to get the best out of your bike, and avoid unpleasant surprises after buying a component.
3
Caution! Replacing, changing and upgrading the componentry
on your recumbent may have an effect on the bicycles warranty.
To avoid any unpleasant surprises, consult your Optima dealer
before making any changes to the original equipment of the
manufacturer. (OEM)
Responsible cycling
Recumbent cycling, like all other sports has its thrills and exhilarations, but also its dangers.
A cyclist is in control of his or her own vehicle, and his safety is primarily in his or her
own hands. Dangerous or unusual situations should be met with cautious behavior and
preventative measures from the cyclist him or herself - the rst of which is to slow down.
Both Optima and the local government cannot therefore be held accountable for your
mistakes or misjudgements.
General safety Measures
Wet weather and night time cycling
Slow down in the rain and increase the distance between you and your fellow road users.
Avoid busy or dangerous roads. Realize you can be partially hidden in the spray following
vehicles. If you have lights, we suggest you turn them on in the rain. Ride in a restrained
fashion. Brake earlier, and more gently than when it is dry.
We strongly suggest you buy bright, reective cycling clothes for bad weather or night riding.
We also suggest you stick to routes you already know when conditions are bad, this way
you will have a better idea of what to expect. Keep this in mind when riding in the rain.
Caution! Be sure to follow these guidelines to ensure your own safety.
· Always perform the pre ride checklist on page 18 before every ride
· Wear your helmet whenever you are on your bicycle
· Take care not to let the wheels, chainrings, chain, cables and other bicycle parts injure
you
· Recumbent pedals are higher than those of a normal bike, and are in a position that
your feet do not fall naturally, as they are on a standard bicycle. For this reason always
wear appropriate, fully closed shoes and buy a pair of ‘clipless’ pedals, to keep your
feet on the pedals. Do not use pedal straps.
· Know your bike and its controls.
· Control your speed. Speed is dangerous to you and strenuous to your bike.
· Stay rmly on the ground. Jumping a normal bicycle can be dangerous, but at least on
a normal bike you can move about to facilitate a safe landing. On recumbent bicycles
this is not the case. Do not jump whilst riding your bicycle.
· Wear highly visible clothing. Low swung recumbents, above all, should be ridden wearing
bright and visible colors to increase your chances of other road users seeing you.
· Ride as if you were invisible. Keep an eye on what is going on in the trafc around you.
The best way to avoid a collision is obviously to see it coming beforehand.
· Never overtake in a corner. Never. Because you are so low, its likley that Vehicle drivers
will not to see you and will drive you off the road or into the gutter. (this hurts!)
Caution! Precipitation signicantly increases your chances
of being involved in an accident. Wet weather reduces the
traction your bicycle has to the ground, it negatively effects
braking performance and it reduces visibility. These things
happen to you on your bicycle, and to all other road users.
4
Your Optima Bicycle
1
1
For parts found only on linkage steering models, please see gure 9.1. For parts found only on
the ‘Rider’ please see gures 10.1 and 12.1
Warning! Do not ride a bicycle that shows any sign of
malfunction or damage. Take your recumbent to a bicycle store
and do not ride the bike until the problem is xed.
5
1. Seat
2. Upper adjustable seat
xture and upper rack
xture
3. Lower rack xture
4. Lower seat xture
5. Handlebars
6. Gear shifting levers (can
vary in position)
7. Stem
8. Brake levers
9. Bike computer mount
10. Pedal extension tube &
fastening bolts
11.
Front derailleur post
12. Front derailleur mounting
sheath
13. Bottom bracket
14. Crankset
30. Rear brake (rim brake)
31. Wheel dropouts
32. Rear derailleur
33. Rear cog cassette /
Freewheel
34. Reector
35 Optima baggage rack
36. Chain
37. Rear shock absorber
38. Location of light generator
xture, left side. ( Not
on ‘Baron’, ‘Stinger’ or
‘Cobra’ )
39. Location of rear disk
brake xture, on left side
of bicycle.
15. Light xture (obscured by
chainwheels in photo)
16. Front chainwheels
17. Headset and Headtube
18. Front brake (rim brake)
19. Front (suspension) Forks
20. Hub
21. Wheel rim
22. Tire
24. Location of front disk brake
xture on the left side of bike
(not on all forks)
25. Valve stem
26. Mudguards
27. Rear suspension pivot point
28. Chain roller
29. Lower adjustable rear shock
mount
Setting up your Bicycle
Now that you have opened the box and unpacked your new bike – How do you get this thing
working?! Please follow the instructions and suggestions given in this chapter carefully, to
ensure you can start off your recumbent cycling addiction safely and securely.
Assembling from the Box
Your bike will arrive partially or fully assembled, depending on where you live. Now all you need
to do is follow the following steps in the order written, and you’ll be riding your recumbent in no
time! Some steps will only apply to certain models, in which case this will be clearly stated.
1. Installing the wheels.
For ease in construction and accessibility it is best to start by mounting the wheels. Optima
bikes come with either bolt on or quick release wheel fastenings, depending on the model
and specications.
The rear wheel is fastened using a quick release lever for standard
hubs and bolts for SRAM’s dual drive or 3x7 derailleur/hub gear
systems.
When removing or replacing any rear wheel, make sure the chain is
fed properly around the cogs on the wheel, as seen in gure 6.1.
Quick release fastening allow for fast installation and
removal of the wheels. Properly fastened quick release
wheels are in no way less safe than bolted wheels.
To install the wheel, simply pull the lever on the wheel
outward to the unlocked position (g 6.3). After unlocking
the mechanism, feed the wheel into the forks or the frame.
Ensure that the wheel is fully inserted in the frame, to prevent
the brakes dragging on the rim or disk. If the brakes drag
when the wheel is properly inserted, readjust the brakes.
Now press the lever to the closed position, as seen in gure
6.2. (The nut on the opposite side to the lever may need to
be tightened or loosened to allow for the closure of the lever
to clamp the forks properly). To remove the wheel, unlock the wheel by pulling the lever. You
may need to unscrew the bolt on the opposite side slightly to get the quick release skewer past
safety knobs on the dropouts. If you are not already experienced in the use of quick release
skewers, see the manufacturer’s procedures in the enclosed information package for proper
use. Otherwise ask the sales representative or a local bicycle store for assistance.
Warning! An improperly fastened quick release lever could lead
to the dislodging of the wheel during braking, leading to serious
injury and damage to your bicycle.
6
3x7 derailleur and hub gear system Installation and removal.
To install (or remove) the rear 3x7 wheel, rst put the left handlebar shifter to the lowest gear
(position on the grip 1). Feed the wheel into the frame ensuring that the cog cassette is on the
right hand side of the wheel, the same side as the rear derailleur. Now bolt the wheel to the
frame, using a 15 mm metric spanner. Once the wheel has been fastened, feed the shifting
linkage chain into the gear shifting roller and slide the shifting roller onto the hub axle stub
(g 7.1). You will hear and feel a positive click when it is properly engaged. Now track the link
chain around the roller.
The next step is to connect the shifting chains threaded stub with the shifting cable connection
unit. This is done easily, by simply feeding the stub into the unit, as seen in images 7.2 and 7.3.
Feed the connector unit onto the stub to the point at which most of the slack is gone from the
shifting cable and release the block. Now check that the handlebar shifter units can engage
all three gears. If the top gear cannot be engaged, you will need to loosen the connector unit
and allow a little more slack in the cable.
To move or remove the connection unit from the shifting chain stub you will need to pinch
the unit at it’s end, pressing the small square plate of brass in to release the ratchets which
prevent the unit from slipping (see g 7.2) To clamp the unit to the stub again, simply release
the button
7
Dual Drive derailleur and hub shifting system wheel installation and removal.
The hub will need to be bolted onto the frame using a 15mm spanner. Once bolted on you can
install the gear shifting linkage unit.
Start by putting the thumb lever on the handlebar shifting unit to the leftmost setting, with one
dot. When you look at the hub connection unit, the yellow indicator in the small window should
be as close to the axle hole as possible, (g.7.5). Next, you will need to press the black shaft
sticking out of the top of the connection unit in fully so that it sticks out of the bottom of the
unit. This will not be possible if the thumb shifter is not in position 1.
2. Installing linkage front steering systems 10.4
Setting up the steering linkage (All 2 and 3 wheel linkage steering models)
You will now need to connect the master to slave steering linkage. This may have already been
done, depending on where you live. You may however need to disconnect and connect the
linkage at some time anyway. To disconnect the linkage, pull the safety pin off the shaft (gs 8.2
and 8.3) and pull it out of the hole at the foot of the socket and shaft (g 10.4). To (re)connect
the linkage, make sure the safety pin is removed. Then push the linkage’s socket onto the
slave joint ball (seen bare in g 10.5) Once the socket is correctly around the ball joint, you will
be able to slide the safety pin back into the socket’s ange (g 10.7). If the pin will not go in,
the socket is not properly on the ball joint. This may require some force. If you cannot do it by
hand, give the socket moderated a tap with a rubber mallet to connect the joint properly. Once
properly on the ball joint, (Fig 8.7) replace the safety pin and clip it fully over the linkage shaft,
and it will snap itself closed. For instructions on aligning the steering system, please go to the
next page, and read the section entitled ‘Aligning linkage steering systems’.
Warning! Make sure that the gears work properly before
riding your bicycle. Badly adjusted gears could lead to the chain
skipping or jumping off the cogs resulting in frame and spoke
damage, and potentially dangerous trafc situations.
8
Once you have done this, feed the unit onto the protruding hub axle stub
on the right, derailleur hand side of the bike. Once you cannot push the
unit any further, reach your nger underneath the unit and push the shaft
back up as seen in gure 7.6. If the shaft will not move, remove and ip
over the unit and push the black lever inside the unit down towards the
unit’s base (as seen in g 8.1) and try again. It should now work.
3. Rider Front wheel alignment and installation
9
All export models of the ‘Rider’ are delivered without the front wheels fully assembled. Please
follow these instructions carefully to ensure you install the wheels properly. Failure to do so
may result in hub damage, breaking malfunction and serious resultant injuries.
Assemble the wheel to the
frame, in the order depicted
in gure 9.1, with the braking
slave unit on the front side
of the hub as in g 9.2. The
brakes will have been aligned
before shipping so all you
need to do is mount the
wheel as shown in g 9.2 and
fasten the axle bolt tightly. If
the wheel bolt is not sufciently
tightened, the brakes will drag
and the wheel may work itself
loose.
While screwing the hubs in,
gently squeeze the brake levers a few times, to ensure that the hub shells are well centred.
If one or both of the brakes drag, you will need to adjust them. This should not be necessary
for the rst assembly. To see how to adjust the brakes, see section 4 on page 12, brake
adjustment & bleeding.
Fig
9.2,
rider
Measuring up front wheels (‘Rider’ only)
The front wheels should have been properly
aligned on the factory oor, but will need periodic
adjustment. To adjust the rider’s wheels, begin
by making sure that neither of the front wheels
has any buckling in it. Buckling will bring error
into the necessary measurements and will result
in a relatively large error in the setup. Also
ensure all steering plates are securely fastened.
Once the rims have been made true, point
them straight ahead and measure the distance
between the leading edge of the inner side of the
brake rim on both wheels (L.E., gure 10.1), and
the distance between the trailing edge (T.E.) of
each inner side of both rims across the bicycle.
Take the average of these measurements,
subtract 2 mm, and this will be your guideline
2
.
Once you have taken these measurements, cut
one length of wood or string (preferably wood)
to the length you have just dened. Once you
have cut it, nd the half way point on the beam
or string and mark this point clearly. Be sure to
do this accurately! Now that you have got all of
the necessary measurements, you can start the
alignment process.
Aligning linkage steering systems.
The rst step is to ensure that the steering master block (A, gure10.1 and 11.2
– present on all linkage steering models) is parallel to the central slave steering
block (C, or the front fork) . See gure 12.1 for an example. Do this by using a
50cm (20 inch) ruler, or any object you know to be perfectly straight of similar
length. Remove the integrated lower seat xture and chain guide
3
to get an
unobstructed line between the two steering elements. Now get your ruler and
hold it along the side of the master and central slave steering blocks as seen
in gure 11.2. For forks, allign the wheel with the master block. If the slave
block or fork points to the right when the master block is straight (gure 10.2),
you will need to shorten the linkage bar. If the steering block points to the left
(gure 10.3, you will need to lengthen the linkage bar. Do this by loosening the
locknut (g 11.2, G), then loosening the head socket of the linkage (g 11.2,
F) from it’s plate and screwing it in or out to adjust the length of the linkage.
Retighten the locknut once you have the linkage at the correct length.
1
3
Part numbers 4 & 28, Figure 5.1 ‘Your optima Bicycle’
10
Fig 10.3
11
Once the two steering blocks are in
line, you will need to adjust the slave
to wheel linkage bars (E, g 10.1). This
process requires that the handlebar be
pointed straight ahead, and remain
that way until the process is nished.
Failure to do so will result in your
wheels not being properly in line.
You will now need to use the wooden
beam or string length you just cut and
prepared. Remove the pedal boom
from the frame, as you will need to
use the cut in the bottom of the frame
where the boom fastening bolts are
to align the wheels precisely, using
the half way mark you made on your
balancing beam or string. Hold the
alignment beam or string perfectly
horizontal with it’s center point at
the groove (see g. 11.1) Using this
groove as a guide, align each wheel
individually by undoing one end of the
steering linkage bar, undoing the safety
locknut on the free end and moving the
end socket in or out by twisting it on
its thread. Align the wheel by replacing
the socket in the wheel’s steering plate
to check whether the center point lines
up with the frame when in contact with the inner surface of the rim. Once you have aligned
both wheels, check that the handlebar is still pointing straight ahead. The alignment beam or
string should now just touch both rims, when it’s center point is at the groove in the frame, as
seen in g. 11.1.
4. Brake adjustment & bleeding
All brakes wear with time and temperature variations can sometimes lead to the necessity
to adjust the brakes. Most braking systems on Optima bicycles come with a separate
manufacturer’s information package containing a complete instruction manual. Please refer
to these manuals to set up and adjust your brakes.
‘Rider’ hub brakes
There are three main ways of adjusting the brakes: by the bolts holding the slave piston, by
the adjustment on the slave piston and via a small Allen key on the brake lever.
To make any major adjustments to the brakes on the two front wheels, move the upper xing
bolt on the brake slave unit (E, g. 12.1) up or down on the adjustment holes on the braking
torque arm (F). If the brakes are only slightly out of adjustment, you can make small adjustments
by pulling the rubber boot on the under side of the slave cylinder down off the ridge on the
cylinder body. This will reveal a notched surface on the slave piston (K, g 12.1) which can be
adjusted with a 8mm spanner. Turn it clockwise whilst looking down the body of the cylinder
to the piston to tighten the brakes and counter clockwise to loosen them.
If at any point you remove the Braking torque and steering arm (I, g. 12.1) you will need to
replace it as follows. First, mount the hub on the bike/wheel xture block (I, g 9.1) making
sure that the inner hub spacer (F, 9.1) and the hub inner shell (E, 9.1 and A, 12.1) are well
centered on the bike/wheel xture block. Once you have screwed the hub in reasonably rmly,
Tighten the Steering arm base bolt (G, 12.1) slightly, followed by the braking torque bolts (H,
12.1). Once you have snugged both sets of bolts in, securely fasten the steering arm base
bolt before the braking torque bolts.
Another method of setting up the ‘Rider’ brake, is to adjust the reach of the brake lever. Please
refer to the enclosed Magura info package for information on how to do this.
12
A) Hub inner shell
B) Hub ange
C) Bike / Wheel xture block
D) Brake actuation lever
E) Hydraulic slave unit
F) Slave unit adjustment holes
G) Steering arm base bolt
H) Braking torque bolts
I) Braking torque and Steering arm.
J) Steering linkage fastening point
K) 8mm Brake adjustment socket on slave unit
L) Brake slave unit cylinder
5. Mounting mudguards
If you ordered mudguards with your bicycle, they will be fast and
easy to install.
Remove the wheels from two wheeled bikes and the rear wheel
from the rider to install the mudguards. For the rear wheel, screw
the mudguard to the bicycles rear fork at its base, using the rubber
spacer and bolt provided. (Fig 13.3), placing the spacer between
the mudguard and the frame. Now attach the support rods to the
rear swingarm via bolt holes located at the top of the swingarm,
right above the wheel dropouts. (These are similar to normal bike
rack mount points, but not to be used for racks.) See g 13.2.
Once you have attached these support rods (13.3, b), you will need to attach them to the
mudguard itself. This is done using the headless clamping bolts (a), nuts (d) and holders (c)
supplied. Feed the rod through the eye of the holder, insert the holder into the metal attachment
arm of the mudguard and screw the bolt onto it, clamping the rod in place (g 13.1).
Rider mudguards fasten to the braking
torque arm and steering plate, on the
front and rear bolt, as seen in gure 13.4.
The installation procedure is the similar
to two wheeled bicycles, however you
do not attach the base of the mudguard
to the frame and only x it from one side.
This construction may look weaker than
the double side frame secured method
but the rods are strong enough to hold
the mudguard in place, as long as it is
installed properly.
13
Fig. 13.1 Fig. 13.2
Fig. 13.3
Fig. 13.3
Bleeding Hydraulic brakes
For those who can bleed their brakes properly, Optima offers standard and Rider bleeding kits
to its customers
4
1
, which come with a complete instruction manual. Please contact optima for
a bleeding kit, using the address found on page 30, resources.
6. Fitting the seat and rack.
4
Rider kit comes with an extra syringe and lead for the dual slave system. This special kit is
cheaper than buying two Magura service kits, which you would otherwise have to do.
For low handlebar models, please go to step 10 on page 17 rst. The seat must be installed
using the rubber spacers, 3 & 6 mm Allen keys and the 10 mm bolts provided. The seat
mountings allow for adjustment of the angle of the seat, of approximately 5 degrees (g
14.2). The seat mounting frames are fastened using a 6mm allen key, and a 5mm allen key
on the bolt holding the seat frame and chain router on the lower right hand side. The rack
xes to the frame using the upper seat xtures and the bolts half way down the seat support
tube.
If you own a Orynx or Dolphin, your rack, if you ordered one, will be different from the rack
on the bicycle shown in gure 1.1. This rack fastens onto the same points as the standard
rack, but it integrates the upper seat frame. (g. 1.1, part numbers 2 and 35) The Stinger
rack fastens to the upper adjustable seat mounting, and is connected to the seat itself with 4
bolts instead of two.
Tip: When adjusting the angle of your seat, you will need to
change the extension of the pedal boom slightly. If you lay the
seat back, reduce the extension of the boom. If you bring the
seat upright, lengthen the boom extension slightly.
Caution! Do tighten the bolts holding the seat onto the seat
frame over 6 NM
-1
. Failure to follow this guideline will either
immediately crack your seat, or reduce it’s service life. Let the
Caution! Bleeding hydraulic brakes of air is a potentially
dangerous process if not done correctly. We strongly advise
that you get your brakes bled by an experienced bicycle
mechanic if you are not absolutely certain that you can do it.
14
5
This requires a special tool: a chain breaker or pin pusher. Go to your local bike store if you don’t
know how to use one or are not condent in adjusting your chain, as a badly connected chain will
break.
7. Installing the Pedals
Now get the Pedals, and slightly grease the thread on
them. Feed the pedal thread into the cranks manually,
remembering that the left hand pedal has an inverted
thread (To tighten, turn counter-clockwise.) The right
hand side has a normal thread (turn clockwise to tighten).
Caution! The pedal boom MUST NOT be extended beyond
the point at which the end of the boom is less than 10
mm inwards from the inner of boom clamping bolt (A, fig
16.2). Failure to follow this guideline will result in increased
fatigue and potential failure of the frame of your bicycle.
15
8. Installing the pedal Boom
Loosen the screws on the bottom of the frame where the boom enters the frame feed the boom
into the frame, ensuring the derailleur post, if present, is on top and the chainwheels are on
the right hand side of the boom, in the direction the bike travels. If you own a condor or a rider,
keep in mind that for any extension or shortening of the pedal boom, you will need to undo
the derailleur cable rst. When you cut the cable to length, take note that doing so will limit the
extent to which you can extend the boom in future, without buying a new inner cable.
Start the setup process by setting your seat in the most upright position possible. Now adjust the
length of the pedal boom up so that your knee is slightly bent when your heel is on the pedal at
it’s full extension. Make sure that you feel comfortable with the setting – some people like their
pedals closer than others. If you did not tell us your leg length in the ordering procedure you
will now need to adjust the chain length
5
, as described on page (XX). If you have short legs,
you may even need to cut down the pedal boom to allow for the bike to be set up correctly. We
advise you do to a local bike store to have this done. If you cannot or wish to do it yourself,
use a good jig and a sharp metal saw to cut the pedal boom down.
To get the pedal boom aligned properly in rotation, line the boom up with the seat and handlebars.
Once you have the boom properly aligned, tighten the bolts rmly.
9. Installing the Front Derailleur and cables
The cable will have been fed through the boom during the manufacturing process, and you will
see the end of the cable (B, Fig 15.2) sticking out of the boom just below the front derailleur post
(C). Bend the cable round and feed it into the cable stop (D), on the left hand side of the front
derailleur boss (again, in the direction the bike travels). For exact tuning of the front derailleur
please see the instruction manual of the manufacturer, included with your bicycle information
package. Align the derailleur so that the chain passes parallel to the front derailleur’s cage, by
loosening the clamp on the derailleur clamp sheath (E, g 15.2). This will avoid the necessity
to readjust the cable. Now that you have set up the extension and derailleur, you may want to
cut the front derailleur cable to length. Only do this if you are condent you can do it properly!
11. Handlebars
If you bike is delivered in a box, some handlebars may not be mounted. For understeer models
mount the handlebar and stem before the seat, using a 6mm allen key. Adjust the angle of
the handlebar so that it falls into your hands comfortably whilst they are in a straight line with
regard to your wrist. Otherwise adjust it to an angle that feels natural to you. A properly adjusted
handlebar will reduce fatigue all the way up to your shoulders and neck. For above steering
models, you may need to install the stem. (turn page)
10. Tires and correct tire pressure
To ensure proper traction and safety, tires must be inated to the correct pressure (60–100% of
max, unless otherwise stated). If the pressure is too low, the rolling resistance will be signicantly
higher than usual and the tires will wear at a faster rate. If it is too high, the tires will deform
and eventually fail. The max tire pressure and often the advised range can be found on the
sidewall of the tire, in both p.s.i. and bar. Some tires will also have an arrow indicating their
intended rotational direction.
Tip: if two people will be using the bike, to install the front
derailleur (inner and outer) cable length according to the
settings of the tallest user!
Warning! Make sure your tires are properly inflated as
described above before riding. A tire at low pressure will
cause more drag, wear faster, and may lead to handling
problems or even tire folding in emergency maneuvers.
16
Installing a above steering tiller is a simple process. Start by
feeding the stems base onto the fork steerer tube, makins sure that
the clamp ring is abound the base of the stem (with exeption of the
baron stem, see the next paragraph for baron instructions). Once
the tiller is slid onto the steerer tube, lean it forwards and insert the
top clamping screw into the hole at the top of the stem. Tighten this
screw Untill all paly is gone from the bearing races. Then swing the
stem back and align it with the front wheel. Now tighten the collar
around the stems base to lock the stems angle. Both tillers can be
adjusted in angle by screwing the angle adjustment screw in or
out. The universal tiller can be adjusted in reach, by loosening the
screw in the collar clamp of the top seaction and sliding it in or out.
For the Baron, Slide the stem onto the forks steerer tube, then
place the headset cap on top of it. Insert the bearing pressure screw and tighten it untill all
play is gone from the bearings. Now allign the stem with the front wheel and tighten the bolt
found behind the steerer tube and under the stems arm.
12.Suspension
The suspension will have been fully prepared in the Optima factory.
No further work is necessary, however you may want to tune the
suspension preload
6
to suit your weight and riding style. If you
have an air shock absorber, adjustment will require a special high-
pressure pump, available from better bicycle stores. If you have a
coil spring shock absorber, adjusting the preload is easy. Simply
twist the spring and bracket on the stationary body, clockwise to
increase the preload and counter clockwise to reduce it. This will
cause the bracket to move up or down on its thread, and cause the
pre compression factor to increase or decrease, resulting in a softer
or harder feel to the suspension (see g 19.1). Further adjustment
is possible by moving the lower xture to another of the three
anchoring holes on the rear wheel fork (see image to the right).
The further from the pivot point the lower xture is, the harder the
suspension will be. Correctly set up suspension will sag about 1/5
into its travel when the cyclist sits on the bike. This setting ensures
the suspension will function correctly and effectively.
Optima bicycles are equipped with a spring that is best suited to rider’s weights of 60–100kg
(130- 220lbs.). If you fall outside of these bounds, you may want to consider visiting a good
bicycle store, which should be able to help you nd a new spring that suits your weight.
6
Preload is the precompression factor of the spring. This denes and how soft or hard the suspension
function will be. Increasing it will make for a rougher ride, decreasing it will result in a smoother ride.
Ask your dealer for tips on optimal setup for all conditions.
Tip: If you are carrying lots of baggage (on the rack or frame)
you will need to tighten the spring preload, relocate the lower
xture and maybe even buy another spring to ensure proper
suspension function.
17
13.Chain length and Pulleys.
Pulleys
Each Optima bicycle is equipped with at least one chain guiding pulley, which
will not need much maintenance. These pulleys both guide the chain and
prevent the bicycle’s rear suspension from being inuenced by pedalling
forces. The fastenings for the pulleys double as anchorage points for the
protective chain tubes, which reduce the amount of dust that gets to your
chain and protect your clothing.
It is crucial that the chain is guided over the pulleys correctly, as failure to do so could result
in damage to the bicycle frame and seat. Make sure that the larger diameter pulley (70mm /
3 in diameter) guides the chain as it goes from the top of the rear cog cassette, to the top of
the front chainwheels of the crank.
The three low swung Optima’s (Baron, Cobra and Stinger) have 1 or two return pulleys to
allow for better clearance
for steering (g 18.1). These
smaller pulleys were only
designed to take a minimal
load, and incorrectly routing
the chain will brake them and
their ttings. The rest of the
optima range has one pulley
for the upper driving side of
the chain, and use a long
ared tube to guide the chain
back to the rear cassette.
Chain length.
With the pedal boom set
up at the correct extension
and the chain routed past all
pulleys and through all tubes, put the chain into the smallest front chainwheel and smallest
rear cog. The rear derailleur’s chain tensioning arm
should now be pointing backwards, as seen in g. 18.3.
(the two teethed pulleys are attached to the tensioning
arm) If the arm points downwards, lengthen the chain
slightly. If it points upwards slightly or the chain is not held
tense and hangs, shorten the chain.
You will need a special tool for this: a chain pin pusher.
Push out the pin of the chain totally, and reconnect the
chain using the included bronze coloured superlink. To
release the superlink, squeeze the two plates together
and slide their pins together.
18
Fig 18.1 Baron, Cobra and Stinger chainline
Standard chainline
Fig 18.2 Chain length setup
19
14.Brakes.
The brakes may need slight adjustment out of the box bus should be working properly.
Optima sets up its bikes so that the right hand brake lever is for the rear brake, and the left
hand lever is for the front.
Be careful in learning to use the brakes on a recumbent – the rear wheel will break out easily
if you use them over zealously. On a recumbent you cannot move around like on a normal
bike, making a recovery more difcult.
15.Mounting an aerodynamic fairing (Baron
Option)
A correctly installed fairing will reduce
your wind resistance by 10%, giving
you a competitive edge or that extra
bit of range on a ride. Follow these
instructions carefully and you will look
back – but only to see all the people
you’ve passed! A fairing kit can be
ordered from any official Optima
representative and includes a Fairing,
bolts, spacers, a support arch and a
seat attachment plate.
The rst step in installing a fairing is
to put your seat all the way back, or to the position you wish to keep it in once the cowling is
installed. (The fairing will not t properly if the seat is more than half way upright.)
Now nd the included
template for the cut-
out for the wheel
and derailleur on
the underside of the
fairing, shaped like g
19.1. Make double and
triple sure to align the template properly, with the side marked derailleur side, on the correct
side of the fairing! (All you need to look for is ‘inside template side’ When this text is facing
YOU, the side facing down is the side described in the text.) Read the last sentence between
brackets again, because if you mess up here you can’t go back a step!!!
Tip: It is important that the fairing ts you like a glove: any
openings will effectively turn your fairing into a parachute
giving the opposite effect to what you want! Ask your optima
representative for hints and tips if you are uncertain of
anything.
Once you have aligned the template correctly, trace the shape of
the template onto the shell and remove the template. Now get the
tin cutter or saw with the breglass cutting blade and cut away. You
may need to trim the form slightly to get a good t. Again, make sure
you use the special bre glass sawblade if you use a jig saw.
Now mount the rear fairing arch to the holes near the rear dropouts
on the frame, making sure to place a spacer between both the bolt
and arch, and arch and frame. Check that the bolt on the right hand
(derailleur and cogset) side does not scrape against the cassette
or interfere with shifting in any way. Also make sure that the arch
is well centred over the rear wheel. Remove and bend the arch if it
is not properly centred.
Drill one hole in the back of your seat using a 6mm drill bit,
approximately 5cm (2 inches) from the top of the seat, along its centreline.
Now that you have your drill handy, proceed to drill a hole in the top of the
fairing, approximately 32cm (12.5 in) from the seat side of the top ridge of
the shell. Use this hole to attach the fairing to the rear fairing support arch,
using the nut, washer, rubber spacer and low prole bolt provided. Place
the rubber spacer between the fairing and the top of the wheel arch. (See
g 20.2) All connections between the cowling and xture points should use
the included rubber spacers, between the inner side of the shell and the
xation point. Always place a rubber spacer between objects to be connected
to the fairing and the fairing itself.
You will need one of two tools to cut the form out: a Jig saw or a tin cutter. If you don’t have
either of these tools we suggest you buy or rent one. If you use a jig saw, you must use a
special breglass saw on it, or the polyester of the fairing will spit and crack from the vibrations
created by cutting the fairing. This may all cost more, but it will cost less than ordering a new
fairing and the results will be much more satisfying in the long run. You will also need a pair of
safety glasses, gloves and preferably a long sleeve top and
long pants: Polyester shards are sharp and when they get
into your skin, they can cause a rash and irritation that could
last for about 10 days. Not protecting yourself whilst working
is foolish, and the chances are high you will wish you had
followed these guidelines after working if you don’t.
20
Fig 20.2
Fig 20.1 Jig saw & tin cutter
Be sure to nd one of these: a composite / bre glass saw blade
Once you have found a comfortable position, (nd someone to help you
here if possible) mark the position that the hole for the bolt is against
the underside of the fairing, using a sharp implement or paint marker (g
21.2). You will need to reach you hand back up inside the cowling to do
this. Make sure the upper bolt is tightly fastened so that the attachment
plate doesn’t move. Now ip the cowling back and use a sharp implement
or a paint marker to mark one of the lower bolt hole on the seat plate’s
position against the seat. Drill a hole in both the cowling and the position
you marked on the seat, and fasten both points using the bolts and rubber
spacers provided. Drill the second hole you marked in the base of the
seat now and fasten the top plate properly.
Now that you have the fairing xed to the wheel arch and seat, it is time to drill and x it to
the bottom of the seat. Do this by aligning the lower arms of the fairing to the underside of
the seat and tape the bottom of the fairing to the seat securely making sure that the wheel
does not scrape against the back end of the fairing in doing so. Now drill a hole through
both the fairing and the seat from the bottom up (g 21.3). Attach the lower sides to the seat
using the low prole bolts, rubber spacer and bolts provided. You may now need to trim the
fairing to allow wheel clearance (g 21.1).
That’s it – your aerodynamic fairing is installed!
Make sure you put your seat all the way back again, attach the cushion to the seat, and sit
down on the bike. If anyone else is round now would be a good time to ask for a little help.
Fix the seat attachment plate to the seat using the included rubber spacers and washers.
The longer arm of the seat attachment plate should be bolted to the hole you drilled in the
seat. Swing the cowling, now attached to its arch, down onto the plate, and start adjusting
the cowlings vertical and horizontal position by moving the seat plate up and down. Set
up the height and horizontal position of the fairing so that it ts ush to your shoulders just
behind their peak, making sure the t as close as it possibly can be. Make sure the seat
cushion is on the seat during this adjustment, otherwise you will be setting the fairing up too
low and it will be less comfortable and less effective.
21
Riding A Recumbent Bicycle
Before you ride
Before you take your beast out on the streets, take a moment on your bike to get used to the
new seating position and point of view that your Optima provides. Remember that in such a low
position, automobile drivers may not see you! For this reason we urge you to please exercise
caution whilst riding in trafc! Do not overtake in corners, this is extremely dangerous. Optima
strongly advises you to consider installing a (kiddy bike) ag on your bike if you ride in trafc
often, as this will increase your visibility to other road users signicantly.
Once you are used to riding in the recumbent position we advise that you use a ‘clipless’ pedal
system. These pedals can take a little while to get used to, but they will allow for much more
comfortable riding and result in less leg fatigue, as it takes more effort to keep your feet on the
pedals of a recumbent than a normal bicycle!
For your convenience and safety please make sure that the Bicycle ts you properly and
that you have followed all instructions for assembly as shown in the chapter ‘Setting up your
Bicycle’ before riding.
Short pre-ride checklist.
Brakes
Pull each brake lever to make sure there is no stickiness and that the brakes are properly
centered and engage the rims or disk properly, without scufng the tires. Check that they can
exert enough pressure to stop the bike. If your brakes are too tight or loose, adjustments should
be made. Please refer to the original manufacturers manuals, enclosed in the information
package and to the troubleshooting section of this manual.
Quick Release Levers
Please ensure that all wheels are securely and properly fastened before stepping on the bike.
Check that the quick release levers are rmly in their closed positions (see gures 6.2 & 6.3).
Failure to do so could result in a serious accident and injury.
Tires and wheels
Ensure that your tires are properly inated and that the wheels run true between your forks and
frame. Gas station pumps inate tires very rapidly, but the pressure gauges may be inaccurate.
We suggest you inate your tires using a hand pump and an appropriate pressure gauge to
read the pressure
7
. Grasp each wheel rmly and try to move it side to side. There should be
no noticeable play. If there is excessive play, ensure you have tightened the hubs before riding,
as this play may cause braking malfunction.
Seat
Ensure that your seat is securely fastened to the frame before mounting your recumbent bicycle.
See section 6, page 14: ‘tting seat and rack’ for more details.
7
Please contact your bicycle dealer for an appropriate pressure gauge or pump.
22
23
Operating the gear changing systems.
Optima bicycles are supplied with three main types of gear shifting systems, Shimano trigger
shifters, SRAM twist shifters and Shimano bar end shifters. Each of these systems has it’s own
merits, and the choice for either comes down to nothing more than personal preference. To shift
twist shifters, twist the grip. To shift Shimano shifters, pull the trigger with your pointer or push
the lever with your thumb. To shift the bar-end levers, bend them forwards and backwards.
The right hand gearshift activator operates the rear derailleur; the left hand operates the front
derailleur. You must be pedalling to operate derailleur gear shifters.
Pushing Shimano thumblevers will generally push the chain to a larger cog and pulling the
trigger will move the chain to a smaller cog. Twisting gripshift grips downwards will generally
move the chain into a larger cog, and forwards back to smaller cogs. Pushing barend shifters
down shifts to larger cogs, pulling them back up goes to smaller ones. Generally the direction
with the most resistance is moving to a larger cog.
Hub gears will work whilst pedaling or whilst standing still, but generally weigh more than
derailleur systems and are easier to maintain. Derailleur shifters are lighter and more easily
serviced, but are more open to the elements than a hub geared system.
If you want to shift into a harder gear at the front (Left) you will have push the derailleur to a
larger cog. To go to a faster gear in the rear (right), you will need to shift to a smaller cog. Whilst
this is at rst confusing, it will in time become second nature. As far as the position of the chain
on the cog goes; the closer the chain is to the centerline of the bike, the easier the bike is to
pedal and the slower you go. The further out it gets, the harder it is to pedal and the faster you
will go. Regard the front cogs as three speed ranges, with the rear allowing adjustment of this
range. Major speed changes will use the front derailleur. Smaller ones will use the rear.
Moving the chain towards the centerline of the bike is called ‘downshifting’ and moving it away
from the centerline is called ‘upshifting’
Tip: It is best not to put the chain into both small sprockets.
Riding in this gear combination could damage the rear
derailleur and will lead to irritating ‘chain slap’ noise, as
well as increased chances of the chain falling off the front
chainwheels
Caution! Do not shift derailleurs when you are standing still,
or backpedal whilst shifting. This may damage your shifting
system or lead to a fall.
The First Ride
Warning! Take it easy when riding your bike for the rst 2
months. Riding a recumbent hard straight away will easily
overload your knees, and there is nothing worse than having a
new bike… and being unable to ride it!
Now that you have checked the bicycles basic mechanisms, go out onto a quiet street or
alley, away from trafc and take your rst spin on the bike. So… how do you ride one of these
things? Just set your eyes on the horizon, and GO! Starting for the rst time on a recumbent
can be a hairy experience, but you will be surprised just how fast you get used to riding on
your new bike. Riding a recumbent for the rst time is all about commitment. In the words of
a well-known shoe manufacturer, Just do it!
The basic skills and feelings are exactly the same as on a traditional bike, just now you feel
like you are riding on a couch! We strongly advise that you wear a helmet if helmets are
not already compulsory for cyclists in the country where you live.
Put your preferred leg on the upper pedal, bent and ready to push as hard as you can. Just like
on a normal bike, the faster you go on a recumbent the easier it is to stay upright. ‘Just testing’
your bike slowly will generally lead to you not even being able to take your other foot off the
ground. This may require a little courage – but it is denitely courage that will be rewarded!
Relax your arms and body – a tense body makes even a normal bike hard to ride. Now that
you have the foot of your preferred leg on the pedal and other holding you upright (g. 24.1,
A), you will need to push rmly on that pedal. Don’t look around you and decide where you
will fall – that is setting yourself up for failure. Look into the distance, loosen up, (you should
be able to steer with your ngertips) put all your weight on the seat, swallow your adrenaline
and go! Once you are moving, quickly, yet smoothly, bring your other leg up from the ground
(B) and put it on the other pedal ready to deliver the second power stroke(C). It may take a
few tries to build up the courage to do this, but soon we will be able to say ‘Congratulations!
You are now riding your Optima!’
24
Fig
24.1
25
Travelling on your recumbent
Never thought of yourself as one to go on a bicycle holiday? Or maybe you have always
dreamed of a bicycle holiday? Optima bicycles are more than suited to travel on; almost all
Optima recumbents can be tted with bicycle pannier racks and special carrying bags to allow
for luggage transportation. You cannot however t any old bicycle rack to an Optima, you will
need to order the specially made Optima racks. These racks have been designed to carry
loads of up to 20 Kg on the Stinger and Baron, and 50Kg on all other models. Remember to
keep the weight as low as possible when packing your bike bags, as top-heavy bags will raise
the center of gravity and negatively inuence your bikes handling. Single wheeled baggage
trailers will have a greater inuence on the handling of your recumbent than a normal bike.
Be sure to pack them with the center of gravity as low as possible. Remember that loading
your bike will mean having to change suspension settings or even replacing the spring. (See
setting up your bicycle: suspension).
Please contact the dealer you purchased your Optima from for more details about bags and
racks .
Tip: Remember to shift to the lowest gear before you stop,
especially when you’re carrying extra luggage on the bike
Comfort and quality accessories for your
recumbent.
Optima manufactures a number of accessories for the improvement
of cycling comfort which can be ordered at any time from any sales
point. These accessories are, amongst others, a headrest, soft
handlebar grips, seat covers, a tailbox with luggage compartment
for the stinger and an adjustable stem for above steering models.
All these accessories are made of high quality durable materials,
are easy to install, and add to both the comfort and looks of your
recumbent.
The headrest is adjustable in height, with a hygienic breathing cover
which can easily be removed for machine washing. This headrest
is made with quality stainless steel rails and low prole bolts that
Optima seat covers are made from the same
durable and hygienic machine washable
material as the headrest cover, fitting all
standard sized optima seats cushions. These
covers look great and will make your cushion
and clothes last much longer.
Another handy option, exclusively designed
for the stinger, is the aerodynamic luggage
tail box. This luggage carrying fairing
attaches simply and securely to the
integrated rack and upper seat arch,
giving you a dry and secure space to carry your
things as well as an aerodynamic advantage,
all in one attractive unit. All you need to
do to install it is place it on the rack, drill through
the rack and tailbox at two points and fasten the
included bolts.
An exotic accessory from optima is the
carbon fibre seat, weighing in at a mere
675 grams, compared to around 1350 for a
standard medium seat. This seat is stiffer and
lighter than normal seats, giving a lighter bike
and more efcient cycling, not to mention the
beauty and allure of life’s most basic building
block, carbon.
26
27
Maintenance
To keep your Optima working optimally you will need to carry out periodic maintenance. This
chapter outlines necessary periodic control and maintenance. We strongly advise you order
the parts listed in the ‘Accessories’ section of this manual from Optima or one of Optima’s
dealers only. This is for your own safety, to ensure you get the right parts.
Keeping your recumbent bicycle properly maintained is very important. Use the following outline
as a guide for repair and maintenance intervals. Many of these tasks are easy to do oneself,
but we recommend that you let an expert do the more challenging work (Working on hydraulic
brakes, truing buckled wheels, etc.). If you have any questions about how best to maintain
your bicycle, please feel free to contact your Optima dealer or Optima’s headquarters in the
Netherlands. (Address can be found in the last chapter of this book; ‘resources’.)
Certain parts such as the spokes and cables will ‘set in’ after the rst few rides, and related
systems may require some adjustment to maintain optimal functionality.
This maintenance schedule is based on normal usage. If you ride your bike more than average
or in adverse conditions, you may want to go over your recumbent more often than the manual
suggests. (carry out a quarterly check every month, for example) If any part malfunctions or
seems to be broken, immediately adjust or repair it yourself, or seek the help of a professional.
Do not ride a bicycle that is not functioning properly.
This maintenance schedule is based on normal usage. If you ride your bike more than average
or in adverse conditions, you may want to go over your recumbent more often than the manual
suggests. (carry out a quarterly check every month, for example) If any part malfunctions or
seems to be broken, immediately adjust or repair it yourself, or seek the help of a professional.
Do not ride a bicycle that is not functioning properly.
Recommended periodic maintenance
Each time you ride:
· Check your brakes work properly.
· Check that your gears work properly.
· Make a quick visual inspection of the bike to check for other faults.
· Check that quick release levers are securely fastened.
Weekly
· Clean off you bicycle and make a quick visual inspection of major parts
· Check tire pressure and general state of the tires
· Check brakes for correct function and adjust them if necessary.
· Adjust malfunctioning gears and lubricate the chain if dry.
Quarterly checklist.
Brakes
· Check that the brake pads meet the disk or rim accurately and do not scuff the tires.
· Check your brake blocks for wear.
· Secure break mounting bolts.
Cables
· Check all cables for damage, kinks or wear. Replace as needed.
· Take the cables out of their housings and clean them, also checking for kinks in the wire
(replace if there are major kinks, as a cable may snap there if not replaced!
· Readjust gears and brakes to compensate for cable stretch.
Wheels
· Check hubs for excessive play or noise. Disassemble, re-lube and tighten the hub if you
encounter any of these.
· Check that your rims are true, and inspect them for ange denting and wear.
· Make sure that all the spokes are tight and equally loaded, check for kinks in the spokes.
Replace damaged spokes.
Warning! Failure to follow these guidelines could allow
faults or badly adjusted components to go unnoticed, until a
resultant crash!
28 29
Tires and inner tubes
· Check tire pressure: Low tires will require more effort to keep rolling, and may be dangerous
in emergency maneuvers.
· Inspect tire tread and sidewalls for wear, splits and general integrity. Replace the tire
immediately if you can see the tire carcass or have any doubts on the state of the tire.
· Replace inner tubes with more than about 5 patches – these will generally leak slowly
anyway.
Derailleurs
· Check the sideways travel of the derailleurs, checking that the limiting screws keep the
derailleur away form the spokes and frame.
· Clean the rear derailleurs cogs and derailleur arm. Check cog bolts for proper tension.
· If the adjustment barrel on your derailleur and/ or shifters is signicantly screwed out,
its time to undo the cable bolt on the derailleur, screw the adjustment barrels in and
retighten the cable.
Drivetrain
· Inspect chain to ensure it is in a good state, with no seized links.
· Lubricate chain, clean beforehand if necessary. Don’t forget to clean the cogs if you clean
the chain! If you want to remove the chain, remember that all Optima bicycles come with
superlinks in the chains that can be taken apart with the hand.
· Inspect chainwheels and rear cassette, for wear and broken teeth. Worn teeth begin to
resemble shark ns.
· Check that the chainrings are true, and are properly tightened to the crank.
· Check that the rear cog cassette is securely fastened to the rear wheel. Tightening the
cassette requires a special tool.
· Check that the chain protection tubes are securely fastened to their ttings. A loose tube
may cause to chain to jump off the cogs unexpectedly or damage the derailleurs.
· Inspect and lube the chain rollers. Inspect the chain track; these are consumable products
which wear down, and will need replacement.
Headset
· Check for excess play or a ‘sandy’ feeling. Tighten or re-lubricate as necessary.
· Re-lubricate headset if the grease is dry or dirty.
· Check the lubrication of the Riders wheel xing / steering slave blocks.
Check the alignment of the handlebars
Pedals, Cranks and Bottom bracket.
· Check pedals for cracks and other damage.
· Test the pedals for smoothness, and inspect lubrication. Clean and re-grease if
contaminated.
· Make sure that the pedals are securely fastened to the cranks.
· Make sure that the cranks are securely fastened to the bottom bracket axle.
· Ensure the bottom bracket is securely tightened inside the frame.
· Check the bottom bracket for smoothness and for excess play. If you have a cartridge
bottom bracket, replace when dysfunctional.
Suspension
· Dismount and clean rear shock absorber. Remove spring and depress shaft of the damper
into the shock body. Make sure this goes smoothly, and that there is no oil residue on
the Stanchion after its return.
· Clean and inspect suspension pivot points. Lightly grease shock absorber bushings.
Make sure not to use excessive lubricant, as this will attract dirt and may even increase
the rate of wear at the pivot points.
· Clean suspension fork sliders. Lubricate as advised in manufacturer’s manual.
· Ensure that the suspension pivot points twist freely, without excessive play. This includes
the bushings on the shock absorbers.
Miscellaneous.
· Check tubes and frame for damage or damage to paint.
· Check that all nuts and bolts are fastened securely. Be careful not to over-tighten bolts.
Tools for maintenance
This section will cover which tools are necessary for maintenance of your Optima recumbent
bicycle, and will give a list of recommended extra tools. All fastenings on Optima bicycles have
standard metric sizes.
Allen Keys
· 2mm
· 2.5mm
· 3mm
· 4mm
· 5mm
· 6mm
· 8mm
· 10mm
(Rider wheel bolts)
Spanners/ Wrenches
· 8mm
· 9mm
· 10mm
· 13mm
· 15mm
30
Reccomended:
Chain Cleaner
Screwdrivers
31
Service tips
Adjustment of the hubs.
Both hubs on your bicycle must be correctly adjusted to minimize wear and tear. A hub that is
set too tightly or with too much play will wear faster than a correctly adjusted hub. The correct
play is approximately 0.3mm (0.012 in) at the rim. To readjust the hubs, remove them from the
bicycle. The front hubs can be adjusted from either side, but the rear hub may only be adjusted
on the left side (opposite to the cogs and freewheel assembly).
Hubs must be lubricated with grease on the bearings, with the area around the seals kept free
of grease, as this will attract dust and grit. Do not oil the bearings, as this will slowly erode
the grease lubrication.
Headset and front forks.
Due to the considerable stresses this area of your bicycle can undergo, correct adjustment is
important. Check that the headset in which the fork rests is free of play. We suggest you let
your Optima dealer deal with any excess play. If the headset cannot be adjusted such that no
play is present whilst offering no resistance to turning, please contact a local bike store. Check
regularly that the headset is fastened securely. For the Rider, ensure that the steel tube and
copper bushings on the steering slave blocks are properly greased.
Spoke tension
Spokes are an essential part of your bicycle and badly adjusted spokes will have a
negative inuence on the stability of your bicycle. Tensioning spokes is a specialized task,
which requires experience and insight. For this reason we advise you have tensioning done
by a professional. A few weeks after purchasing your bicycle we strongly recommend that you
have your spokes checked for tension
Bottom bracket and crank
The bottom bracket and cranks must be free of play. Check regularly that the chainwheel bolts
are securely tightened and that the cranks are securely fastened to the bottom bracket. Any
maintenance of the bottom bracket requires special tools and is best left to a professional
bicycle mechanic.
Gears
Your gears will need periodic adjustment to keep them working optimally. Cables stretch and
cable housings compress slightly after use, so adjustment may be necessary reasonably soon
after purchasing the bicycle. If you are uncertain how to adjust the gears, please refer to the
documentation of the original manufacturer, included in the information package. If you are
still hesitant, please take
your bike to a local bicycle store to be tuned up. Many Optima Bicycles require special extra
long gear shifting cables. Please contact Optima or your dealer for information.
Warning! A loosely spoked wheel can result in your bike handling badly,
in normal and particularly in extreme conditions. Make sure your wheels
are well maintained by a properly qualied bicycle mechanic.
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