Kicker 19418149 Owner's manual

Brand: Kicker

Model: 19418149

Type: Owner's manual

Kicker 19418149 is designed for 2019 and newer Chevrolet Colorado and GMC Canyon Crew Cab without an HD radio, and is not compatible with the Bose system. Below you will find brief product information to help you better understand its capabilities:

Installation of this product requires disconnection of the negative battery cable, and reconnection after installation is complete.
Included in the product are 2 fuses which are required for use, they must be installed in fuse holders before use.
The power wire and amplifier power wire must be connected to the battery distribution stud pictured in figure 1, torqued to 4.7Nm (42 in-lb).

Installation of this product requires disconnection of the negative battery cable, and reconnection after installation is complete.
Included in the product are 2 fuses which are required for use, they must be installed in fuse holders before use.
The power wire and amplifier power wire must be connected to the battery distribution stud pictured in figure 1, torqued to 4.7Nm (42 in-lb).

19418149-20190730

19418149

Designed for 2019 and newer

Chevrolet® Colorado and

GMC® Canyon Crew Cab

without HD radio

Not Compatible with Bose® system

Amplifier Assembly

Subwoofer Harness

Subwoofer Power Harness

Amplifier Power Harness

M6 Bolt X 2

7mm Screw

Threaded Clip

Fuse X 2

Wire Tie X 6

Foam Pad X 3

Amplifier Harness

Subwoofer Assembly

Fig. 2

Insert terminals first.

Any wire can be in

any position.

Then

retainer

Fig. 3

Fig. 1

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.

2. Make sure supplied fuses are not installed in fuse holders. Open the battery distribution cover

and connect the subwoofer power wire and the amplifier power wire to the stud pictured in

figure 1 depending on which distribution block you have. Torque to 4.7Nm (42in-lb)

3. Route the power harnesses toward the firewall and secure with supplied wire ties.

4. Make a small incision in the grommet on the driver

side of the firewall and pass the power harnesses

into the cabin. Some models may have a small

nipple that can be cut off rather than making an

incision. Fig. 2

5. Install the white three pin power connector on the

amplifier power harness. Close the retainer. Fig. 3

Note: The terminals are keyed so that they only

install one way. If the terminal doesn’t want to

slide completely into the connector, it may

need to be rotated 180 degrees. It does not

matter which red wire goes in what position of

the connector.

Tip: Using a piece of stiff wire can help

in feeding the wires through the

grommet. Poke the stiff wire through

from inside the cabin and then tape the

power harnesses to the wire. Try to tape

the power wire so that the metal

terminals are not all trying to pass

through the grommet at the same time.

Slowly pull the stiff piece of wire to feed

Insert

terminal

first

Then

depress

blue

retainer

Fig. 4

6. Install the black two pin power connector on the

subwoofer power harness by first inserting the

terminal fully into the connector and then

depressing the blue retainer. Fig. 4

Note: Make sure the blue retainer in the center

of the connector is not depressed – it should

be flush with the front of the connector. If the

retainer is depressed, the terminal will not fully

seat in the connector body. Make sure the

terminal is installed into position 1 on the

connector body. There should be a block-out plug installed in position 2 in order to

prevent the terminal from being installed into the wrong position on the connector.

Radio Removal

7. Pull loose the radio bezel. Fig. 5

8. Remove the four screws securing the radio display/HVAC control panel. Fig. 6

9. Pull loose radio display/HVAC control panel and disconnect wiring. Note: Be careful not to

allow metal retainers to scratch dash!

Multi-Channel Amplifier Installation

10. Pull loose the dash end trim panel on the passenger side of dash. Fig. 7

11. Pull loose the passenger side front kick/threshold trim panel. Fig. 8

Fig. 6

Fig. 8

Fig. 5

Fig. 7

Fig. 12

Fig. 9

Fig. 11

Fig. 10

12. Remove the five screws and one plastic retainer securing the passenger side lower cover panel

below the glove compartment. To remove the plastic retainer, pry the center portion out first.

Fig. 9

Note: Some models may have a smaller

panel with only three screws.

13. Remove the glove compartment hinge pins by sliding them out. Fig. 10

14. Remove the glove compartment tension cable by sliding the hook toward the front of the glove

compartment. Remove the glove compartment from dash. Fig. 11

15. Install the supplied M6 clip nut onto the plastic tab

on the side of the blower housing. Fig. 12

Note: Some models may have a metal threaded

insert installed into the plastic tab by the

factory. If a metal threaded insert is present,

remove it and replace with the supplied M6 clip

nut.

Fig. 13

Fig. 14

Fig. 16

Fig. 15

16. Temporarily disconnect the HVAC blower fan wiring to allow the amplifier to be installed.

17. Secure the top of the multi-channel amplifier bracket with the supplied M6 bolt – leave loose.

Fig. 13

18. Install the supplied M6 bolt to secure the bottom of the multi-channel amplifier bracket to the clip

nut – leave loose. Fig. 14

19. Install the supplied screw in the location indicated in Fig. 15 and then tighten both M6 bolts.

Amplifier Harness Routing

20. Route the multi-channel amplifier harness from the

radio opening to the amplifier in a way that will not

interfere with the glove compartment function or

reinstallation of the radio display/HVAC control

panel.

21. Disconnect the 28-pin tan connector from the radio

module and connect it to the amplifier harness.

Fig. 16

Fig. 19

22. Connect the tan connector of the amplifier harness back to the radio module.

23. Disconnect the 28-pin green connector from the radio module. Carefully cut away

approximately 3 inches of black cloth wrapping the harness. Find the green with black stripe

wire and cut. Strip back about ¼ inch of wire on each cut end. Fig. 17

24. Using the supplied butt connectors, connect the harness wire labeled “connector” to the cut

wire attached to the radio connector. Connect the harness wire labeled “harness” to the other

cut wire. Fig. 18 See Splicing Technique Section.

25. Connect the two white multi-channel amplifier

connectors to the amplifier.

26. Ground the multi-channel amplifier harness to the

bolt securing the right side of the dash.

Fig. 19 Tighten to 19Nm (14ft-lb)

27. Connect the multi-channel amplifier harness three-

pin power connector to the three-pin power

harness connector.

Subwoofer Harness routing

28. Remove the driver side front and rear threshold panel along the bottom of the door opening.

29. Remove the filler panel on each side of the rear seat frame trim panel. Fig. 20

30. Remove the eleven bolts and rubber bumpers securing the rear seat frame trim panel and

remove the trim panel from vehicle. Fig. 21

Fig. 17

Fig. 18

Fig. 20

Fig. 21

Fig. 22

31. Connect the subwoofer harness two-pin power connector to the power harness two-pin

connector.

32. Route the subwoofer input connector (two-pin white) under the dash toward the passenger side

and connect it to the multi-channel amplifier connector.

33. Ground the subwoofer harness to the bolt securing

the left side of the dash. Fig. 22 Tighten to 19Nm

(14ft-lb)

34. Route the subwoofer harness along the driver side door openings. Pull harness under carpet

and through hole near rear seat frame on the driver side. Fig. 23

35. Make two ½ inch long cuts in carpet directly below the metal brace pictured in Fig. 24. Only cut

through the carpet layer, and not the insulation. The cuts should be approximately ½ inch apart.

36. Slide one of the supplied wire ties under the loop of carpet created in the previous step and

secure the harness to the carpet loop. Fig.25

37. Connect the subwoofer harness to the subwoofer. After connection, secure connector to

retention bracket on the bottom of the subwoofer enclosure.

38. Push down firmly on the subwoofer to slide it under the rear seat frame. Make sure the

subwoofer bracket is fully installed over the nut insert in the rear seat frame. Install the supplied

foam pieces along the front of the subwoofer enclosure where indicated in Fig. 26

Make two

cuts in carpet

approx. ½

inch long and

½ inch apart

directly

below metal

brace! Cut

carpet only,

not

insulation!

5 inches

from back

of bar

Fig. 24

Fig. 25

Foam pads

Fig. 26

Fig. 23

Fig. 27

39. Reinstall the rear seat frame trim panel over the

subwoofer enclosure and reinstall the bolts and

bumpers. It may be necessary to make slight

adjustments to the subwoofer enclosure or rear

seat trim panel position to perfectly center the

enclosure. Reinstallation of the two filler panels on

each side of the seat frame trim panel is possible,

but not necessary. Fig. 24

40. Reinstall all previously removed parts in reverse

order.

41. Install supplied fuses into fuse holders.

42. Reconnect negative battery cable. Tighten to 7.5Nm (66in-lb)

Troubleshooting the Kicker Integrated Systems

If you experience a problem once the subwoofer or amplifier are installed use this guide to locate the trouble.

The radio is working, but the Subwoofer is not working:

• Check the battery voltage to make sure it is not discharged below 11 volts.

• Check the negative battery cable to see if it has been securely tightened back on the battery.

• Check the inline fuse located near the battery to make sure it is plugged in completely, and not blown.

• Check the inline +12 volt power connector near the firewall to make sure it is plugged in securely.

• Check the inline connectors near the subwoofer enclosure to make sure they are plugged securely.

• Check the ground wire connection to make sure it is tightly secured to the proper ground in the vehicle.

• Check the audio input signal connection to make sure it is secure and connected to the proper wiring.

• Test with different music in case there is no low frequency audio in the initial sound check.

There is a problem with the multi-channel stereo amplifier:

• Check the battery voltage to make sure it is not discharged below 11 volts.

• Check the negative battery cable to see if it has been securely tightened back on the battery.

• Check the inline fuse located near the battery to see if it is plugged in completely and not blown.

• Check the multi-pin connectors at the back of the radio and at the amplifier chassis to make sure they are

plugged all the way in.

• Check the ground wire connection to make sure it is tightly secured to the proper ground in the vehicle.

Symptom

Possible Cause

Solution

No Subwoofer Output

Fuse not installed in inline fuse

holder on subwoofer and/or

amplifier power harness

Install fuse into fuse holder.

Refer to instructions for correct

placement

Low battery voltage

Recharge the battery

Negative battery cable not

connected

Reconnect negative battery

cable

Power wire connector not

connected to body harness

Connect power wire to body

harness. Check for loose

connection

Ground wire not grounded properly

Check ground wire with voltmeter

to insure it is a good ground

Balance and/or fader controls not

set to neutral position

Set balance and fader control to

center settings. (only affects

stand-alone subwoofer kit)

No low frequency information in

music

Test with several different songs

Subwoofer harness not

properly/completely connected to

subwoofer

Securely fasten both of the

connectors on the subwoofer

harness to the subwoofer.

Check for loose connectors.

Radio Not Coming On

Blown radio fuse

Refer to owner’s manual for radio

fuse location and value

Low battery voltage

Recharge the battery

Radio Comes On, But No

Sound From Any Speakers

Fuse not installed in inline fuse

holder on amplifier harness

Install fuse into fuse holder.

Refer to instructions for correct

placement

Ground wire not grounded properly

Check ground wire with voltmeter

to insure it is a good ground

Low battery voltage

Recharge the battery

Splicing Technique

Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Sleeves

Special Tools:

•

EL-38125-10 Splice Sleeve Crimping Tool

•

J-38125-5A Ultra Torch Special Tool

•

J-38125-8 Splice Sleeve Crimping Tool

NOTE: The DuraSeal splice sleeves have the following 2 critical features:

•

A special heat shrink sleeve environmentally seals the splice. The heat shrink sleeve contains a

sealing adhesive inside.

•

A cross hatched (knurled) core crimp provides the necessary low resistance contact integrity

for these sensitive, low energy circuits.

Use DuraSeal splice sleeves where there are special requirements such as moisture sealing. Follow the

instructions below in order to splice copper wire using DuraSeal splice sleeves.

Splice Sleeve Color

Crimp Tool Nest Color

Wire Gauge mm² / (AWG)

3 Crimp Nests

4 Crimp Nests

Salmon (Yellow-Pink)

19168446

Red (1) or Red/Green

Red (2)

0.5–0.8/(18–20)

Blue

19168447

Blue (2)

Blue (3)

1.0–2.0/(14–16)

Yellow

19168448

Yellow (3)

Yellow (4)

3.0–5.0/(10–12)

NOTE: You must perform the following procedures in the listed order. Repeat the procedure if any wire

strands are damaged. You must obtain a clean strip with all of the wire strands intact.

Open the harness by removing any tape:

•

Use a sewing seam ripper, available from sewing supply stores, in order to cut open the

harness in order to avoid wire insulation damage.

•

Use the DuraSeal splice sleeves on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial.

Cut as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire in order to change the

location of a splice.

Adjust splice locations so that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in) away from the other splices, harness

branches, or connectors.

Strip the insulation:

•

When adding a length of wire to the existing harness, use the same size wire as the original wire.

•

Perform one of the following items in order to find the correct wire size:

NOTE: Find the wire on the schematic and convert to regional wiring gauge size.

If you are unsure of the wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down

until achieving a clean strip of the insulation.

•

Strip approximately 5.0 mm (0.20 in) of insulation from each wire to be spliced.

•

Do not nick or cut any of the strands. Inspect the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands.

•

If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.

For high temperature wiring, slide a section of high

temperature SCT1 shrink tubing down the length of wire to

be spliced. Ensure that the shrink tubing will not interfere

with the splice procedure.

Select the proper DuraSeal splice sleeve according to the wire

size. Refer to the above table at the beginning of the repair

procedure for the color coding of the DuraSeal splice

sleeves and the crimp tool nests.

The EL-38125-10 splice sleeve crimping tool has four crimp

nests. The largest crimp nest (4) is used for crimping 10

and 12 gauge wires. The second largest crimp nest (3) is

used for crimping 14 and 16 gauge wires. The third largest

crimp nest (2) is used for crimping 18 and 20 gauge wires.

The smallest crimp nest (1) is used for crimping 22 to 26

gauge wires. The crimp nests are referenced in the table

(farther above) under the crimp tool nest color.

The J-38125-8 splice sleeve crimping tool has three crimp nests.

The largest crimp nest (3) is used for crimping 10 and 12

gauge wires. The second largest crimp nest (2) is used for

crimping 14 and 16 gauge wires. The smallest crimp nest (1)

is used for crimping 18 to 20 gauge wires. The crimp nests

are referenced in the table (farther above) under the crimp

tool nest color.

Use the splice sleeve crimp tool in order to position the DuraSeal splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the

splice

sleeve crimp tool. For the four crimp nest tool, use the three largest crimp nests to crimp the splice

sleeves. For the

three crimp nest tool, use all three crimp nests to crimp the splice sleeves. Use the four and

three crimp tool

diagrams (above) and the table (farther above) to match the splice sleeve with the correct

crimp nest. The crimp tool

diagram callout numbers match the numbers in the table (under crimp tool nest

color).

Place the DuraSeal splice sleeve in the nest. Ensure that the crimp falls midway between the end of the barrel and the

stop. The sleeve has a stop (3) in the middle of the barrel (2) in order to prevent the wire (1) from

going further. Close

the hand crimper handles slightly in order to firmly hold the DuraSeal splice sleeve in the

proper nest.

Insert the wire into the splice sleeve barrel until the wire hits the barrel

stop.

Tightly close the handles of the crimp tool until the crimper handles

open when released.

The crimper handles will not open until you apply the proper amount of

pressure to the DuraSeal splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 6 for

the opposite end of the splice.

Using the heat torch, apply heat to the crimped area of the barrel.

Start in the middle and gradually move the heat barrel to the open ends of the tubing:

•

The tubing will shrink completely as the heat is moved along the insulation.

•

A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient shrinkage is

achieved.

If you continue to experience problems after troubleshooting, please contact KICKER Technical Support at (800)

256-0808 ext. 6009, or [email protected]

P.O. Box 459 • Stillwater, Oklahoma 74076 • USA • (405) 624–8510

Kicker 19418149 Owner's manual

Brand: Kicker

Model: 19418149

Type: Owner's manual

Installation of this product requires disconnection of the negative battery cable, and reconnection after installation is complete.
Included in the product are 2 fuses which are required for use, they must be installed in fuse holders before use.
The power wire and amplifier power wire must be connected to the battery distribution stud pictured in figure 1, torqued to 4.7Nm (42 in-lb).

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Kicker 19418149 Owner's manual

Kicker 19418149 Owner's manual

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