Kenmore 385.18330 Owner's manual

S_FA/RtS

Owner's Manual

Manual de Instrucciones

Manuel d'instructions

SEWING MACHINE

MAQUINA DE COSER

MACHINE A COUDRE

Model }

Modelo

Mod61e

385.18330

CAUTION:

Before using this sewing

machine, read this manual

and follow all Safety Rules

and Operating Instructions.

• Safety Instructions

• Warranty

• Specifications

• Operation

• Care and Maintenance

• Troubleshooting

Sears Canada Inc., Toronto, Ont., M5B 2B8

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

Your sewing machine is designed and constructed only for HOUSEHOLD use.

Read all instructions before using this sewing machiner

DANGER--To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1o This sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in Always unplug this sewing machine from the

electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning,

2. Always unplug before replacing a sewing machine bulb. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts.

3. Do not reach for a sewing machine that has fallen into water. Unplug immediately.

4.. Do not place or store this sewing machine where it can fall or be pulled into a tub or sink. Do not place or drop it into water

or other liquid_

WARNING -- To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:

1. Do not allow this sewing machine to be used as a toy Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is used by

or near children_

2. Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this owner's manual.

Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this owner's manual°

3 Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped

or damaged, or dropped into water.

Return this sewing machine to the nearest Sears store or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical

adjustment,

4, Never operate this sewing machine with any air opening blocked_ Keep ventilation openings of this sewing machine and

foot controller free from accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.

5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening

6. Do not use outdoors.,

7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (" 0") position, then remove plug from outlet,

9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord,.

10 Keep fingers away from all moving parts, Special care is required around the sewing machine needle_

11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.

12 Do not use bent needle&

13 Do not pull or push fabric while stitching It may deflect the needle causing it to break.

14. Switch this sewing machine off ("0 ") when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as threading the needle,

changing the needle, threading the bobbin or changing the presser foot, and the like..

15. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any

other adjustments mentioned in this owner's manual.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

When using your sewing machine for the first few times, place a waste fabric under the presser foot and run ]

t

the machine without thread for a few minutes.. Wipe away any oil which may appear_

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WARRANTY

FULL 25 YEAR WARRANTY ON DEFECT IN MATERIAL OR WORKMANSHIP

For 25 years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which

appear in the internal mechanical part of the sewing machine.

FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF SEWING MACHINE

For two years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which

appear in the electrical and electronic equipment of the sewing machine, including motor, wiring, electronic components,

switch and speed control.

FULL 90-DAY WARRANTY ON ALL PARTS AND MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS

For 90 days from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, replace any parts and provide mechanical service

necessary for proper operation of the sewing machine, except for normal maintenance. Warranty service is available by

returning the sewing machine to the nearest Sears Service Center in the United States.

IF THIS MACHINE IS USED FOR COMMERCIAL OR RENTAL PURPOSES, THE ABOVE WARRANTY

COVERAGES APPLY FOR ONLY 90 DAYS FROM THE DATE OF PURCHASE

This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights which vary from province to province.

SEARS CANADA INC., TORONTO, ONT., M5B 2B8

GARANTIA

GARANTIA COMPLETA POR 25 AthOS EN LA CABEZA DE LA MAQUINA DE COSER

Durante 25 aSos desde la feeha de la compra, Sears ofrece, libre de costo, reparar los defectos en material o de manufactura que

puedan presentarse en los componentes mecanicos de la cabeza de la mAquina de coser

GARANTIA COMPLETA POR 2 AI_IOS EN EQUIPO ELECTRICO DE LA MAQUINA DE COSER

Durante 2 aSos desde la fecha de la compra, Sears ofrece, Iibre de costo, reparar los defectos en material o de manufactura que

puedan presentarse en el equipo el_ctrico de la m&quina de coser, incluyendo componentes electricos, motor, conexiones electricas,

interruptor y control de vefocidad

GARANTIA COMPLETA POR 90 DIAS SOBRE TODAS LAS PARTES Y AJUSTES MECANICOS

Durante 90 dfas desde la fecha de la compra, Sears ofrece, libre de costo, reemplazar cualquiera parte y proveer et servicio mecanico

necesario para la apropiada operaci6n de la mAquina de coser, excepto para mantenimiento normal.. El servicio de garantia se puede

obtener enviando la m#.quina de coser al centro/departamento de Servicios Sears mas cercano en los Estados Unidoso

SI ESTA Mh,QUINA DE COSER SE UTILIZA PARA PROP6SITOS COMERCIALES O DE ALQUILER_ LA COEIERTURA DE

GARANTI_, CITADA M._S ARRIBA ES VP,LIDA UNICAMENTE DURANTE 90 DfAS A PART1R DE LA FECHA DE COMPRA

Esta garanti& le daa usted derechos legales especfficos, pero usted puede tener tambi_n otros derechos los cuales varfan de

provincia a provincia.

SEARS CANADA INC., TORONTO, ONT., M5B 2B8

GARANTIE

GARANTIE TOTALE DE 25 ANS SUR LE MI_CANISME DE LA MACHINE

Pendant 25 arts, _.partir de la date d'achat, Sears r,_parera gratuitement tout d_faut de mat_riau ou de fabrication qui apparaitra dans

le m_canisme de votre machine

GARANTIE TOTALE DE DEUX ANS SUR UI_QUIPEMENT I_LECTRIQUE

Pendant deux ans, & partir de la date d'achat, Sears reparera gratuitement tout d6faut de materiau ou de fabrication qui apparaitra

clans le moteur, le c&blage, I'interrupteur ou la commande de vitesse de marche, dans tes circuits electriques ou _lectroniques.

GARANTIE TOTALE DE 90 JOURS SURTOUTES LES PII=CES ET LA MISE AU POINT DU M#-CANISME

Pendant 90 jours, & partlr de la date d'achat, Sears effectuera gratuitement tout remplacement de piece et r_glage n_cessaires

au bon fonctionnement de la machine; I'entretien ordinaire 6tant & la charge de I'utilisateur_ Pour b_n_ficier des avantages qu'offre la

garantie ci-dessus, adressez-vous a votre magasin habituel ou au service apres-vente Sears, partout aux Ctats-Unis

SI CETTE MACHINE ._ COUDRE SERT A DES FINS COMMERCIALES OU DE LOCATION, LA GARANTIE CI-DESSUS SE

LIMITE A 90 JOURS A COMPTER DE LA DATE D'ACHAT.

Cette garantie vous donne des dreits I_gaux precis, et _ventuellement d'autres droits, ceux-ci pouvant varier d'une province & una

autre

SEARS CANADA INC+, TORONTO, ONT., MSB 2B8

iV

Machine Specifications

Item

Sewing speed (Maximum):

Stitch length:

Stitch width:

Stitch package (Stitch functions):

(Built-in stitches):

Buttonhole:

Machine dimensions:

Weight (Net):

Specification

Over 730/830 r,p m.,

4 mm (Maximum)

6,,5 mm (Maximum)

53

3O

1 step built-in buttonhole

W 422 mm (166") x D 172 mm (648") x H 297 mrn (11 ,,7")

8,5kg (18,5 lbs)

Especificaciones de la mdquina

Artfculo

Velocidad de costura (M_xima):

Longitud de puntada:

Ancho de puntada:

Nt)mero de puntadas (Funcionamiento de puntadas):

(Integradas):

Ojales:

Dimensiones de la m&quina:

Peso:

Especificacidn

M&s de 730/830 r,pom.

4 mm (M_ima)

65 mm (M_xima)

53

3O

Funci6n de ojal incorporado de 1 pasos

422 mm (16,6") de ancho x 172 mm (6,8") de profundidad x

297 mm (117") de altura

8oSkg (18,5 Ibs)

Caractdristiques de la machine

Description

Vitesse de couture (Maximum):

Longueur du point:

Largeur du'point:

Ensemble de points (points de couture):

(points int6gr_s):

Boutonniere:

Dimensions de la machine:

Poidsde la machine:

Caractdristiques

730/830 points-minute

4 mm (Maximum)

65 mm (Maximum)

53

3O

Boutonniere int_gr_e en 1 _tapes

Largeur: 422 mm (16,6") x profondeur: 172 mm (6.8") x

hauteur: 297 mm (11,7")

8_5kg (18o5 [b)

J

TABLE OF CONTENTS

SECTION I. NAME OF PARTS

Cabinets ......................................................................... 2

Names of Parts ............................................................. 2

Available Accessories and Attachments ....................4

SECTION I!. GETTING READY TO SEW

Connecting Machine to Power Supply ......................6

For Your Safety ................................................................6

Operating Instructions .................................................. 6

Controlling Sewing Speed ............................................. 6

Pressure Adjusting Lever ...............................................8

Presser Foot Lifter................................................................ 8

Thread Cutter ............................................................ 8

Accessory Box .............................................................. 8

Extension Table ......................................................................8

Set the speed range switch .......................................10

Changing Needle .......................................................... !0

To Remove and Attach the Foot Holder ....................10

Changing Presser Feet .......................................... 12

Presser Foot Types ............................................... 12

•A: Zigzag foot ................................................... 12

• H: Straight stitch foot .............................................. 12

* B: Buttonhole foot ............................................... 12

• E: Zipper foot ...............................................................12

• F: Satin stitch foot ................................................... 14

• G: Blind hem stitch foot ............................................14

• C: Overedge foot ............................................................ 14

, R: Automatic buttonhole foot .....................................14

° Quilter ................................................................ 14

Selecting Needle and Thread ............................... 16

Bobbin Winding ................................................... 20-24

=Removing the hook cover plate .................... 20

- Horizontal spool pin .................................................20

, Additional spool pin .......................................... 20

- Bobbin winding ................................................ 22

o Inserting the bobbin ....................................................24

Threading the machine ........................................ 26

• Threading the machine ....................................... 26

• Needle threader ..................................................... 26

- Drawing up bobbin thread ...................................... 26

Adjust the Needle Thread Tension for Straight

Stitch .......................................................................... 28

- Correct tension ....................................................... 28

• Tension is too tight .................................................. 28

° Tension istoo loose ................................................ 30

Adjust the Needle Thread Tension for Zigzag

Stitch ...................................................................... 30

• Correct tension .............................................. 30

• Tension is too tight ................................................ 30

oTension is too loose .............................................. 30

Stitch Selector ....................................................... 32

Stitch Width Control .................................................. 34

Stitch Length Control .......................................... 34

Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance .......................... 36

Reverse Stitch Control ................................................36

SECTION III. STRAIGHT STITCH SEWING

Straight Stitch ............................................................. 38

• Starting to sew ...................................................................38

• Finishing sewing ................................................. 38

Use the Seam Guides ....................................................38

Turn a Square Corner ............................................... 38

Use the Quilter Guide ................................................ 38

Topstitching ............................................................. 40

Quilting .................................................................................... 40

Zipper Sewing .......................................................42 - 44

III. Straight stitch sewing (continued)

• To snap on the zipper foot................................... 42

• Fabric preparation .......................................................................42

oTOsew ..........................................................................42

To Drop or Raise the Feed Dogs ........................... 46

Darning ............................................................................ 46

SECTION IV. ZIGZAG STITCHES

Basic Zigzag ................................................................ 48

Satin Stitch ...........................................................................48

Monogramming ...................................................................50

Applique ..........................................................................50

Bar Tacking ...................................................................52

Embroidery ...........................................................................52

Button Sewing ................................................................54

Overcasting Stitch ...............................................................54

SECTION V. UTILITY STITCHES AND

DECORATIVE STITCHES

Blind Hem Stitch ..................................................................... 56

• To sew ............................................................................56

• Changing needle position .................................... 56

Lace Work ................................................................ 58

Multiple Zigzag Stitch .......................................................58

Shell Stitch ....................................................................60

Box Stitch ................................................................ 60

Fagoting Stitch ........................................................... 62

Two-point Shell Stitch ............................................... 62

Two-point Box Stitch .................................................... 62

Overedge Stitch ............................................................64

Decorative Stitch of Geometric Patterns ..................64

SECTION Vl. STRETCH STITCHES

Straight Stretch .................................................... 66

Rick-rack Stretch .................................................... 66

Overcast Stretch Stitching ................................... 68

• To sew ................................................................. 68

Smocking ............................................................................... 68

Serging .................................................................................70

Elastic Stretch Stitch .................................................. 70

Stretch Patching ........................................................... 70

Herring Bone Stretch .................................................. 72

Decorative Stretch Patterns ......................................72

SECTION VII. BUTTONHOLE AND TWIN

NEEDLE STITCHES

Auto Buttonhole ................................................... 74-78

• Preparation for sewing ..................................... 74

• To sew ..................................................................... 74

How to Adjust Buttonhole Stitch Balance ..................78

• Corded buttonhole ................................................... 80

Manual Buttonhole ................................................... 82

• Manual buttonhole ................................................... 82

Automatic Buttonhole (Optional item) .................84-90

• Buttonhole style and size ............................................84

• To sew ................................................ ............... 86

• To adjust stitch density .......................................... 90

Twin Needle Stitches .................................................. 92

SECTION VIII. CARE OF YOUR MACHINE

Replacing the Light Bulb ...............................................94

Cleaning the Bobbin Holder ...................................................94

Cleaning the Hook Race and Feed Dogs ...................96

Oiling the Machine ..................................................... 96

Troubleshooting ................................................................... 98

VI

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SECTION I. NAMES OF PARTS

Cabinets

Afullline ofsewing machine cabinets and Tote bags

are available through the RSOS catalog at your

nearest Sears retail store,,

Names of Parts

Q Reverse stitch control

(_) Sewing guide display

Q Stitch selector

Stitch length setting display

® Stitch width setting display

_) Stitch length control

0 Stitch width control

® Bobbin winder spindle

0 Spool pin

@ Upper thread guide

@ Thread take-up lever

@ Thread tension dial

@ Face cover

@ Thread cutter

@ Needle Threader

@ Needle plate

0 Hook cover plate

@ Hook cover plate release button

@ Extension table (Accessory box)

@ Speed range switch

@ Handwheel

@ Buttonhole pitch balance adjusting lever

@ Feed balancing dial

@ Power switch

@ Machine socket

@ Nomenclature plate

@ Drop feed lever

@ Free-arm

Presser foot lifter

® Carrying handle

@ Presser foot

@ Needle clamp screw

@ Snap-on button

@ Foot control

Buttonhole lever

Thumb screw

F

2

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Available Accessories and Attachments

All parts listed may be ordered from any Sears store or

service center.

WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE

FOLLOWING INFORMATION:

1oPARTNUMBER

2. PARTDESCRIPTION

3, MODEL NUMBER

4. NAME OF ITEM (SEWING MACHINE)

If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order

will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts

Distribution Center for expedited handling

Ref,,No.,

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

21

22

23

24

25

26

27

28

29

30

31

32

33

Pa_ No.

"102869107

102403202

650807008

*993001100

*993011100

"993011400

'993011600

'993011800

"826815000

625031500

823801015

685502019

822804118

829801002

629801016

822801001

820817015

753801004

802422002

479701901

000009803

647808009

820832005

"741814003

802424004

8220205O3

822019509

"213502003

*213501116

"213504005

"213505006

*213506007

"213503015

"200002008

"200003009

"200005001

*200013105

*214872011

"941620000

*200262101

Description

lO x 8obbin

Spool pin fell

Assorted needle set

5 x No 11 stretch fabric needle (BLUE)

5 x No, 11 needle (ORANGE)

6 x No, t4 needle (RED)

5 x No t6 needle (PURPLE)

5 x No, 16 needle (GREEN)

Twin needle

Additional spool pin

H: Straight stitch foot

A: Zigzag foot

F; Satin stitch foot

E: 71pper foot

B: Buttonhole foot

C; Overedge foot

G: Blind hem foot

R: Automatic buttonhole foot

Quilter

Cer_ing case

Light bulb

Seam ripper/Buttonhole opener

Large screwdriver

Oil

Lint brush

Large spool holder

Small spool holder

Buttonhole guide plate

Buttonhole b,ase plate

Template (Round end, small)

Template (Round end, large)

Template (Keyhole)

Buttonhole foot

Piping foot

Gathering foot

Pin-tuck foot

Hemmer foot (2ram)

Walking foot

Ruffler

Needle threader

* These items am not furnished with the machine, but may be

orderedper instructionsabove

"1 2 3 *4

6 7 8 9

11

15

*19 20

12

16

5

10

17

21

*23 *24

*26 "27 *28

"31 *32

22

*29 *30

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SECTION Ih GETTING READY TO SEW

Connecting Machine to Power Supply

Q Power supply plug _ Power switch

(_) Outlet _ Machine socket

(_ Machine plug (_ Light bulb

Before connecting the power cord, make sure the voltage

and frequency shown on the machine conform to your

electrical power.

1. Turn off the power switch (_)o

2. Insert the machine plug (_) into the machine socket (_),

3. Insert the power supply plugOinto the outlet (_).

4. Turn the power switch(_to turn on the power and

sewing light (_°

For Your Safety

* While in operation, always keep your eyes on the sewing

area. Do not touch any moving parts such as the thread

take-up lever, handwheel or needle.

* Always turn off the power switch and unplug from the

power supply:

- When leaving the machine unattended.

- When attaching or removing any parts

- When cleaning the machine..

* Do not place anything on the foot control, when not sewing

Operating Instructions:

"For appliances with a polarized plug (one blade

wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock,

this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way

If it does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still

does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the

power outlet,. Do not modify the plug in any way,"

"Foot Controller Model YC-482J-1 is used with Sewing

Machine Model 38518330 XXX."

XXX - represents numbers 000 through 999.

Controlling Sewing Speed

Sewing speed can be varied by the foot control.

The harder you press on the foot control, the faster the

machine runs.

f

_J

..........,J

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Pressure Adjusting Lever r -,

(_ Pressure adjusting lever

The pressure adjusting lever should be set at "3" for regular

sewing.

Reduce pressure to "2" for applique, cut work, draw work and

basting.

Set pressure at "1" when sewing chiffon, lace, organdy and

other fine fabrics. Velour and knits with a lot of stretch may also

require pressure at "1".

Presser Foot Lifter

Q Presser foot lifter

(_ Normal up position

Q Highest position

The presser foot lifter raises and lowers the presser fool

You can raise it about 1/4"(0.6 cm) higher than the normal up

position for easy removal of the presser foot or to help you

place heavy fabric under the foot.

Thread Cutter

(_ Thread cutter

You do not need a pair of scissorsto cut threads after sewing,,

Just use the built-in thread cutter,

f

..... J

Extension Table

Detaching the table:

Pult the table away from the machine, as illustrated.

Attaching tha table:

Puch the extension table until it snaps into the machine

(_ Extension table

(_) Projection

(_ Hole

Accessory Box

Open the cover of the accessory box toward you. Sewing

accessories are conveniently located in the box.

8

J

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Set the speed range switch

Your machine has two ranges of speed -- a low range for

slower, intricate work and high one for faster, general work

On the low setting the machine witl sew no faster than

appoximately two-thirdthe speed ofthe highone, even when

the foot control is fully depressed°

NOTE: It is advisable not to change the speed range

switch while machine is nmning_

, HIGH

Changing Needle

O Needle clamp screw

(_) Pin

(_ Needle clamp

[] Turn offthe power switch.

Raise the needle to its highest position by turning

the handwheel counterclockwise, toward you, and

lowering the presser foot.

Loosen the needle clamp screw Oby turning it

counterclockwise

Remove the needle from the needle clamp (_o

[] Insert a new needle into the needle clamp (_) with

the flat side to the rear.

When inserting the needle into the needle clamp (_,

push it up as far as it goes, Tighten the needle clamp

screw C) firmly by turning it clockwise,

[] To check for a good needle, place the flat side of

the needle onto something flat (needle plate, glass,

etc.)

The gap between the needle and the flat surface

should be consistent_ Never use a bent or blunt

needle.

A damaged needle can cause permanent snags

or runs in knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics.

To Remove and Attach the Foot Holder

(_) Thumb screw

(_) Foot holder

(_) Presser bar

[] To remove:

Remove the thumb screw (_ by turning it

counterclockwise with a screwdriver

[] To attach:

Match the hole in the foot holder Q with the threaded

hole inthe presser bar(_). Fit the thumb screwL'_ into

the hole. Tighten the screw (_ by turning itclockwise

with screwdriver.

..... J

[]

f

10

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Changing Presser Foot

(_) Snap-on button (red button)

(_) Groove

[] To remove: Raise the needle to itshighest position by

turning the handwheel counterclockwise,, Raise the

presser foot, and press the red button 0 on the back of

the foot holder,

[] To atlach: Place a selected presser foot so the pin (_ on

the foot lies just under the groove (_ on the foot holder.

Lower the presser bar to lock the foot in place,

Presser Foot Types

• Zigzag foot (Foot A)

Use this foot for both straight and zigzag stitching.

For: Striaght stitch (Page 38)

Topstitching (Page 40)

Basic zigzag (page 48)

Bar tacking (page 52)

Button sewing (page 54)

Overcasting stitch (page 54)

Lace work (page 58)

Multiple zigzag stitch (page 58)

Box stitch (page 60)

Fagoting stitch (page 62)

Two-point shell stitch (page 62)

Two-point box stitch (page 62)

Overedge stitch (page 64)

Straight stretch (page 66)

Rick-rack stretch (page 66)

Overcast stretch stitching (page 68)

Smocking (page 68)

Serging (page 70)

Elastic stretch stitch (page 70)

Stretch patching (page 70)

Herring bone stretch (page 72)

Decorative stretch patterns (page 72)

Twin needle stitches (page 92)

• Straight stitch foot (Foot H)

Use this foot exclusively for straight stitching with center

needle position,

For: Straight stitch (page 38)

Topstitching (page 40)

Straight stretch (page 66)

[]

f

[]

Foot A:

Pie A:

Pied A:

Foot H:

Pie H:

Pied H:

* Buttonhole foot (Foot B)

Use this foot for manual buttonholing,

It is marked to help you measure your buttonholes accurately

For: Buttonhole making (page B2).

• Zipper foot (Foot E)

This foot can be set to sew on each side of the

zipper The edges of the foot guide the zipper and

keep the seam straight,

For: Zipper sewing (page 42,44)

f

t.,

r

Foot B:

Pie B:

Pied B:

Foot E:

Pie E:

Pied E:

12

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Presser Foot Types (continued)

oSatin stitch foot (Foot F)

Use this foot for satin stitch and outlining applique.

For: Darning (page 46)

Satin stitch (page 48)

Monogramming (page 50)

Applique (page 50)

Shell stitch (page 60)

Decorative stitch of geometric patterns (page 64)

Smocking (page 68)

Twin needle stitches (page 92)

• Blind hem stitch foot (Foot G)

Use this foot for perfect blind hemming and topstitching The

foot has ridges on the bottom to keep the fabric from slipping

and a screw on top to guide the folded edge of your hem.

For: Blind hem stitch (page 56)

F

Foot F:

Pie F:

Pied F:

Foot G:

Pie G:

Pied G:

,,,J

• Overedge foot (Foot C)

This foot is specially constructed for stitching and/or overcasting

seams. The small brush and wire guides help control the fabric,

hold the raw edge in place and keep it from puckering, espe-

cially when sewing on knit fabrics,

For: Overcasting stitch (Page 54)

Serging (page 70)

Foot C:

Pie C:

Pied C:

J

° Automatic buttonhole foot (Foot R)

Use this foot for one step automatic buttonholing.

Simply set a button on the guide of this foot and depress the foot

control.

You can sew exactly the same length of buttonhole as the but-

toll.

For: Automatic buttonhole (page 74)

Foot R:

Pie R:

Pied R:

• Quilter

The quilter will help to keep the stitching lines straight.

For: Straight stitching (page 38,40)

Quilter:

Gula de acolchado:

Guide & matelasser:

14

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Selecting Needle and Thread

For general sewing use needle size 11 or 14. A fine thread and needle should be used for sewing lightweight fabrics so

the fabric will not be marred. Heavy fabrics require a needle large enough to pierce the fabric without fraying the needle

thread.

In the needle set there isone each of size 1t, 14, 16, 18 and a blue needle. Use the blue needle to eliminate skipped

stitches when sewing knits and synthetic fabrics

Special needles should be used on certain fabric& A denim needle with a sharp tip effectively pierces dense fabrics such

as denim and canvas. For topstitching, a special topstitching needle with a larger eye accommodates heavier weight

thread. Leather needles punch small holes in leather and suede allowing the thread to follow through the hole_

Check your needles frequently for rough or blunt tips,.Snags and runs in knits,fine silks and silk4ike fabrics are

permanent and are often caused by damaged needles°

Always purchase a good quality thread, It should be strong, smooth and consistent in thickness.,

WEIGHT FABRIC TYPE OF NEEDLE NEEDLE SIZE

Chiffon, Georgette, Fine Lace, Organdy, Organdy Universal 9 (65)

Very Light Net, Tulle Bal! Point 9 (65)

11 (75)

Light

Medium

Batiste, Voile, Lawn, Pure Silk, Crepe de Chine,

Sheer Crepe, Chambray, Handkerchief Linen,

Gingham, Challis, Percale, Wool Crepe, Peau de

Sole, Taffeta, Satin, Silk Surah, Satin-backed

Crepe, Qiana

Single Knits, Jersey, Swimwear, Tricot

Leather, Suede

Flannel, Velour, Velvet, Muslin, Velveteen, Poplin,

Corduroy, Broadcloth, Linen, Chintz, Gabardine,

Felt, Terry, Burlap, Quilted Fabrics

Double Knits, (synthetic and natural) Stretch

Velour,

Stretch Terry,

Sweater Knits

Orange

Blue

Ball Point

Wedge Point Leather

Red

Ball Point

11 (75)

12 (80)

11 (75)

1t (75)

14 (90)

16 (100)

Leather, Vinyl, Suede Wedge Point Leather

Denim, Sailcloth, Ticking Denim

Double Faced Wool, Heavy Coating, Fake Furl ...............Purple ..........16 i"lOO)

Heavy Drapery Fabrics

Leather, Suede Wedge Point Leather 16 (100)

Canvas, Duck, Upholstery Fabrics Green 18 (110)

Topstitching for Special Finish Topstitching 11 (75)

14 (90)

16

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Bobbin Winding

• Removing the hook cover plate

(_) Hook cover plate release button

(_) Hook cover plate

Slide the hook cover plate release button Q to the right,and

remove the hook cover plate (_.

° Horizontal spool pin

(_ Spool pin

Large spool holder

(_ Small spool holder

Lift up the spool pin Q., Place a spool ofthread on the spool

pin with the thread coming offthe spool as shown°

Attach the large spool holder (_, and press itfirmly against

the spool of thread.

The small spool holder ® is used with narrow or small spools

of thread.

° Additional spool pin

0 Additional spool pin

_) Spool pin hole

(_ Spool pin felt

The additional spool pin 0 isfor bobbin winding without

unthreading the machine and for twin needle sewing,

Insert the additional spool pin0 in the hole _.

Place the felt (_ and a spool on the pin,

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• Bobbin winding

(_) For horizontal spool pin

(_ For additional spool pin

[] Pull the handwheel out to the right,

[] Draw thread from the spool.

[] Guide the thread around the thread guide.

[] Thread through the hole in the bobbin from the inside to

the outside.

[] Put the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle,

[] Push the bobbin to the dght,

[] With free end of the thread held in your hand, depress the

foot control. Stop the machine when it has made a few

turns and cut the thread close to the hole in the bobbin°

[] Depress the foot control again. When the bobbin isfully

wound, it stops automatically. Return the bobbin winder

to its original position by moving the spindle to the left and

cut the thread as shown.

[] Push the handwheel in.

* The machine does not function until the clutch is engaged,,

NOTE:

Position of the bobbin winder stopper is adjustable

for the required amount of thread on the bobbin

(example 1/2 full or full etco).

Use a screwdriver and loosen the screw one turn or

tess so that you can adjust the position of the bobbin

winder stopper,

Do not take o_ the screw atl the way.

l_

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[]

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• Inserting the bobbin

(_ End of thread

(_ Notch

(_) Notch

(_ Threading chart

[] Place a bobbin in the bobbin holder with the thread

running off counterclockwise,

[] Guide the thread into the notch _ on the front side of the

bobbin holder. Draw the thread to the left, sliding it between

the tension spring blades,

[] Continue to draw the thread lightly until the thread slips into

the notch (_. Pull out about 60" (t5°0cm) of thread_

[] Attach the hook cover plate, Check the threading by

referring to the chart (_ shown on the hook cover plate,

[]

_., "

-7\._

[]

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Threading the Machine

° Threading the machine

* Raise the thread take-up lever to its highest position by

turning the handwheel counterclockwise.

* Raise the presser foot lifter.

* Place a spool on the spool pin, with thread coming off as

shown°

[] Draw the end of thread around the upper thread guide.

[] While holding the thread near the spool, draw the end of

the thread down around the check spring holder.

[] Firmly draw the thread up from right to left over the take-up

lever and down into the take-up lever eye..

[] Slide the thread behind the needle bar thread guide on the

left.

[] Thread the needle from front to back or use a needle

threader.

° Needle threader

[] Raise the needle to its highest position_ Pull down

the needle threader knob as far as it willgo.

[] Turn the knob in the direction of the arrow in the

illustration, then insert hook 0 intothe needle eye.

Lead the thread around guide (_ and under hook

@,

[] Turn the knob in the direction of the arrow in the

illustration, drawing the thread loop through the

needle..

[] Pull the thread through the needle eye.

*The needle threader can be used with a #11 to

#16 needle or a #11 Blue needle.

Thread size 50 to 100 should work wello

Hook

Guide

[]

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• Drawing up bobbin thread

[] Raise the presser foot. Hold the needle thread lightly with

your left hand and turn the handwheel counterclockwise

for one complete turn°

[] Bring the bobbin threadup by pulling the needlethread

up

[] Pull both threads under and to the back of the presser

foot, leaving 4_0 to 6.0" (10.0 to 15.0 cm) of thread clear.

Adjust the Needle Thread Tension for

Straight Stitch

° Correct tension

(_ Needle thread (Top thread)

(_ Bobbin thread (Bottom thread)

To loosen

(_ To tighten

The ideal straight stitch has threads locked between two layers

of fabric, as illustrated (magnified to show detail).

If you look at the top and bottom of a seam, notice that there

are no gaps. Each stitch is smooth and even°

When adjusting needle thread tension, the higher the number,

the tighter the top thread tension.

Results depend on:

stiffness and thickness of the fabric

-- number of fabric layers

-- type of stitch

[]

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®

• Tension is too tight

(_ Needle thread (Top thread)

(_ Bobbin thread (Bottom thread)

(_ To loosen

(_ Right side (Top side)

(_) Wrong side (Bottom side)

The bobbin thread shows through on the right side of the fabric

and it feels bumpy. Turn the dial to a lower tension setting

number to loosen the needle thread tension.

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• Tension is too loose

(_ Needle thread (Top thread)

Q Bobbin thread (Bottom thread)

(_ To tighten

(_ Right side (Top side)

(_ Wrong side (Bottom side)

The needle thread shows through on the wrong side

of the fabric and itfeels bumpy Turn the dial to a higher

tension setting number to tighten the needle thread tension_

Adjust the Needle Thread Tension for Zigzag

Stitch

For an ideal zigzag stitch, the bobbin thread does not show on

the right side (Top side) of the fabric and needle thread shows

slightly on the wrong (Bottom side) side of the fabdc.

See the illustrations for correct appearance,.

To match this appearance, adjust the needle tension.

m

° Correct tension

(_ Right side (Top side) of fabric

(_ Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric

Minimize the amount of needle thread visible on the wrong side

(Bottom side) of fabric without causing excessive puckering or

causing bobbin thread to show on the right

side (Top side) of fabric,

Results vary with fabric, thread and sewing condition.

• Tension is too tight

Q Right side (Top side) of fabric

Q Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric

Corner of each zigzag pulls together on the right side of fabric..

• Tension is too loose

(_ Right side (Top side) of fabric

(_ Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric

The needle thread loops through wrong side (Bottom side) of

fabric and is pulled almost together.

@ ®

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Stitch Selector (how to select stitches)

Raise the needle to the highest position, and select a pattern

by turning the stitch selector_

The red mark will be shown on the selected stitch.

(Set the stitch length control at SS when using the stretch

stitch.)

* Window 0 shows stitch number, foot number and stitch.

* Window (_) shows the desired stitch length for the selected

stitch,.

* Window _3)shows the desired stitch width for the selected

stitch.

Stitch patterns are color-coded to a recommended setting

zone at the stitch length control.

ZONES:

Red:

Green:

Blue:

Gold:

Straight, Zigzag and Utility stitches

Geometric decorative stitches

Built-in buttonhole

Stretch stitches

(_ Sewing guide display

(_ Stitch selector

(_) Red mark

®

0

®

0--1 --2--3----4-----5_---65

WIDTH

I¢==

V_0=1=2m3m4

STRETCH

LENGTH

I 2 3 4 5BH6 7 8 9101112131415161718

(> ," I I I

5.:.<iLl,=,,,o,3)!,5;:'

32

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Kenmore 385.18330 Owner's manual

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