Your model burns butane gas. The gas tank is located inside the cab on the left hand side. Butane gas can be purchased at

most hardware stores as camping stove fuel or as cigarette-lighter refills. Depending on the type of refill canister you are using

you may require a special adaptor to transfer the gas to the model.

To fill with gas invert the gas can over the filler valve atop the tank and press down firmly. Support the model with your other

hand while doing this. Make sure that the gas regulator valve is closed. You will hear the gas transferring and will see a little

gas bleeding out of the valve. When the tank is full, the gas will begin to splutter and liquid gas will flow from the valve.

Lubrication

Oil all external moving parts, including wheel bearings with a high grade, lightweight machine oil like 3-in-1. A single drop of oil

on each moving joint is all that is needed.

The internal moving parts inside the cylinders and valve chests are lubricated from oil picked up from the lubricator is in

The following parts have been removed for transport and will require fitting to complete the model

Unscrew the filler plug inside the cab and fill the boiler to the top with water then pull out 40 ml with the large syringe. Use

only distilled water in your engine’s boiler. Tap water contains minerals that will leach out and ultimately affect the performance

The fire should flash back and burn inside the fire tube at the back of the boiler with a quiet “pop”. If it wants to burn in the

smokebox or in the forward part of the flue, slowly close the gas valve until it flashes back to the burner. Don’t allow the fire to

burn in the smokebox, it will damage your model.

The fire can be observed by carefully looking inside the smoke box from a safe distance. The fire should burn under the burner

in a crescent-shaped flame, which should be clearly visible through the smokebox door. The flame should be bright blue and

should burn steadily. In some circumstances the flame may be a little unstable until the model starts to warm up.

The object is to run the burner at the lowest setting possible to operate the engine, thereby increasing the efficiency of the

engine and the duration of the run. You’ll get the hang of this with practice.

After a few minutes you should start to notice the pressure registering on the pressure gauge. The safety valve is under the

steam dome (the middle dome). It has been set at the factory to release at 60 pounds per square inch steam pressure. It is

and without a train, open the throttle. Because the cylinders are cold, the hot steam entering them will condense into water

and be exhausted through the stack. The engine may need to be pushed backward and forward a few times (use the reverser

to change directions) to clear the cylinders. After a few moments it should move off smoothly on its own.

Once the engine is running smoothly a train can be coupled on and the run can proceed. As this is manually controlled engine

you will need to remain within controlling distance to make any adjustments to its performance. Keep your eye on the water

glass. When the water level approaches the bottom of the glass, shut the engine down and service it to replenish the Gas, Oil

and Water. The accuracy of the water gauge glass may be affected by air bubbles and capillary action.

Extending the Run Time

Extended runs can be achieved by replacing the water fill plug with a water top up valve or ‘Goodall Valve’ (P/n AP-21766) and

using a water top up bottle (P/n AP-21767) to inject replacement water directly into the boiler against steam pressure. Keep an

After a full run, a complete Gas, Oil and Water service must be carried out. Be sure the gas valve is closed and the fire has

been extinguished.

It can be difficult transferring gas from a cool refill canister to a warm engine. This is because the pressure is higher in the

loco gas tank than in the refill canister. This can be overcome by warming the canister in a bath of warm (max temperature 40

deg C) water prior to filling.

Gas fired models may occasionally suffer from a blocked gas jet. If you have difficulty raising steam or the model is lacking

To clear, place the jet nozzle against the inverted gas can nozzle and clear the jet with a blast of gas. Under no circumstances

use a pricker wire, this will damage the jet hole. Replace the jet in the jet holder, ideally using a thread sealant sparingly on the

threads. Ensure it is tightened up firmly. Replace the assembly into the burner and re-connect the pipe to the control valve.

The best insurance against a blocked gas jet is good housekeeping. Keep your gassing equipment separate to your other

Controls & Fittings

subsequently built a further 13 locomotives. The last one, number 17, was built in 1915. The locomotives weigh 36 tons

(36.58 t) and produce a tractive effort of 12,170 lbf (54.1 kN), allowing them to haul loads of 90 tons (91.44 t) up grades of 1

in 30.

Two of the original 2’6” narrow gauge lines have been preserved -

Puffing Billy Railway The 24km (15 miles) of restored line between Belgrave and Gembrook in the scenic Dandenong

Ranges 50 km east of Melbourne.

NA class locomotive numbers 6A, 7A, 8A, 12A, and 14A have been restored and operate on the ‘Puffing Billy’ Steam Railway.

No. 3A is also preserved awaiting restoration.

Walhalla Goldfields Railway In South East Victoria’s Gippsland alpine region the train journeys from the historic gold mining