FuzzDog MicroAMP Operating instructions

  • Hello! I've analyzed the user manual for the MicrAmp op-amp booster. This document describes how to assemble the device, including wiring the components and testing the circuit before the final assembly. It also highlights that the IC is mounted on the back of the board, making it compact enough to fit into a 1590A enclosure. I'm ready to answer your questions about the MicrAmp.
  • What kind of op-amps can be used?
    Where does the IC go?
    Which leg of the diode goes into the square pad?
    What is the power supply configuration?
MicrAmp
Tiny op-amp booster that
packs a mighty punch
Contents of this document are ©2014 Pedal Parts Ltd.
No reproduction permitted without the express written
permission of Pedal Parts Ltd. All rights reserved.
Schematic, layout and BOM
R1 1M
R2 10M
R3 1K
R4 56K
R6 2K7
R7 100K
R8 100K
R9 470R
R10 10K
C1 100n
C2 47p
C3 4u7 elec
C4 1u elec
C5 15u elec
IC TL061*
D1 1N4001
VOL 500KC
*Other single op-amps
will work, such as TL071
PCB Layout ©2014 Pedal Parts Ltd.
The power and signal pads on the PCB conform to the FuzzDog Direct Connection
format, so can be paired with the appropriate daughterboard for quick and easy
offboard wiring.
Snap the small metal tag off the pot so it can be
mounted flush in the box.
Pot mounts on the same side of the board as the other
components (other than the IC).
The striped leg (cathode) of the diode goes into the
square pad.
The long leg (anode) of the electrolytics capacitors go into
.the square pads
The IC fits on the back of the board
“IC on the back of the board?
That’s crazy!” Well, no. It
means you can easily fit one of
these bad boys into a 1590A.
R4 and R7 will have to be
soldered in place before you
mount the IC socket. Make
sure you trim those
connections good and tight so
they aren’t stopping the socket
getting flush with the board.
1 2 3
Test the board!
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES will troubleshooting help
be offered if you have skipped this stage. No exceptions.
Once you’ve finished the circuit it makes sense to test is before
starting on the switch and LED wiring. It’ll cut down
troubleshooting time in the long run. If the circuit works at this
stage, but it doesn’t once you wire up the switch - guess what?
You’ve probably made a mistake with the switch.
Solder some nice, long lengths of wire to the board connections for
9V, GND, IN and OUT. Connect IN and OUT to the jacks as shown.
Connect all the GNDs together (twist them up and add a small
amount of solder to tack it). Connect the battery + lead to the 9V
wire, same method. Plug in. Go!
If it works, crack on and do your switch wiring. If not... aw man.
At least you know the problem is with the circuit. Find out why, get
it working, THEN worry about the switch etc.
BATTERY
IN OUT
Your nice, new circuit board
INCLUDING WIRED POTS!!!!
IN 9V GND OUT
Wire it up
(if using a daughterboard please refer to the relevant document)
Wiring shown above will disconnect the battery when you remove the jack
plug from the input, and also when a DC plug is inserted.
The Board GND connections don’t all have to directly attach to the board. You
can run a couple of wires from the DC connector, one to the board, another to
the IN jack, then daisy chain that over to the OUT jack.
It doesn’t matter how they all connect, as long as they do.
This circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be Tip
Negative / Sleeve Positive. That’s the same as your standard pedals (Boss etc),
and you can safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.
PedalParts.co.uk
L
E
D
BOARD
OUT
BOARD
9V
BOARD
GND
BOARD
GND
BOARD
GND
BOARD
INPUT
BATTERY
+
IN
OUT
L
E
D
BOARD
GND
BOARD
9V
+
/