Breaking in your KMC custom bike 2
FIRST 500 MILES:
FIRST 1000 MILES:
NEXT 1000 MILES:
The first 50 miles are especially critical; over-revving
your motorcycle can cause permanent damage to your
engine and void the warranty.
Do not exceed speeds of 60 mph.
Do not rev the engine harder than 3000 rpm in any gear.
Vary speeds.
Do not overheat or lug the engine.
Do not exceed speeds of 70 mph.
Vary your range of speeds.
Do not rev the engine harder than 3000 rpm in any gear.
NO drag racing, dyno runs, burn outs, trailer towing, etc.
WARNING: Do not overfill the gas tank, although your KMC custom has a 4.8-
gallon gas tank, we do not recommend filling past 3 gallons to stay well away
from over-filling. The overflow valve will vent any excess gas out.
It is important to follow this break-in procedure to ensure the quality of future
performance and durability of your custom bike.
Copyright 2002, Kodiak Motorcycle Company – www.kodiakmc.com
Maintaining your KMC custom bike 3
Copyright 2002, Kodiak Motorcycle Company – www.kodiakmc.com
Regularly Check:
- that tires don’t have any bad wear or cuts.
- Drive-belt for proper tension.
- Brakes, Steering and Throttle.
- Brake fluid level.
- Hydraulic lines and fittings to make sure there aren’t leaks
- Brake pads and disks, make sure they’re not too worn.
- Cables, be sure they’re not frayed or coming loose.
- All the lights.
CAUTION: Your KMC bike should not ever be supported by placing props
under the brake system as damage could occur.
FLUID MAINTENANCE
Oil Filter: The oil filter should be changed every time the oil is changed.
Hydraulic Lifter Oil Filter Screen: The hydraulic lifter oil filter screen is
located in the crankcase above the oil pump.
Air Filter: Inspect the air filter after the first 500 miles and after that, every
2,500 miles. If it is dirty, discard and replace. Do not run the engine without an
air filter.
Fuel Tank Strainer: This is a screen, located on top of the supply valve inside
the fuel tank. It should be inspected and cleaned every 5,000 miles. First empty
the gas tank through the fuel supply line, then unscrew the fuel supply valve
from the tank. Clean and then reinstall the valve.
Engine Oil: Check the level after the engine has been ridden some so that the
oil is at operating temperature.
Changing the Engine Oil: Engine oil should be changed after the first 500
miles, and after that every 2,500 miles, or less if the bike is operated in cold
climates. Oil-changes should be done while the oil is at operating temperature.
- Position the bike standing straight up and level.
- Completely drain the engine oil tank before removing the engine oil filter.
- Remove the oil-filter, then clean the filter gasket contact surface on the
mounting plate. Apply a thin film of oil to the gasket contact surface.
Maintaining your KMC custom bike 4
Copyright 2002, Kodiak Motorcycle Company – www.kodiakmc.com
- When the oil tank has drained, clean the drain-plug and reinstall it.
- Remove the oil filter.
- Pour four ounces of clean oil into the filter.
- Put the new filter back on.
- With the oil tank drain plug in place, fill the oil tank to the proper level.
Checking the Transmission Fluid: Check the tranny oil while the engine is at
normal operating temperature. The bike should be position straight up and level.
Changing the Tansmissiom Fluid: The transmission fluid should be changed
after the first 500 miles, and every 5,000 miles or seasonal change after that,
whichever comes first.
- Position the bike straight up and level.
- Unscrew the drain plug and allow the fluid to drain.
- Remove any foreign material from the end of the plug.
- After the fluid has drained, reinstall the drain-plug.
- Remove the threaded filler-plug and fill with fluid.
SUSPENSION MAINTENANCE
Front Fork Oil: Drain the front fork oil every 10,000 miles ,or annually. If
there is insufficient oil in the fork, rebound action will not be as responsive.
Brake Fluid: Check the fluid level every 5,000 miles.
FRONT END MAINTENANCE
- Repack the front and rear wheel bearings at least every 10,000 miles, or
yearly if the bike is in storage. Replace seals and axle spacers if they seem to
show distortion or wear.
- Remove and lubricate the handlebar throttle control grip sleeve with fresh
graphite every 5,000 miles, once a year, or when it seems to need better
lubrication.
- Repack the steering head bearings with new grease at 10,000 mile intervals or
every 2 years, whichever comes first.
- Lubricate the side stand mechanism with anti-seize every 2,500 miles.
- Be sure to re-oil all control connections after washing the motorbike or
driving in wet weather.
- Tightness of the rear fork pivot shaft fastener should be checked after the
first 500 miles and every 5,000 miles thereafter.
Maintaining your KMC custom bike 5
Copyright 2002, Kodiak Motorcycle Company – www.kodiakmc.com
- Check the front forks for proper bearing adjustment after the first 500 miles,
and then after every next 5,000 miles. Bearings should be repacked at 10,000
mile intervals.
Checking Ride Height: With the bike unloaded, on the side stand, and the
shock fully extended, measure from the center point of the rear axle to a point
on the fender or body work directly above it. With the bike off the stand and the
rider in the sear, bounce on the suspension and let the bike settle. Measure from
the same two points. Subtract the second measurement from the first. The
difference should be between 1 and 1.5 inches. The amount of settle is a
function of wheel travel and should be between ¼ and 1/3 of total wheel travel.
If the difference is less than the maximum, reduce the spring preload (back the
nut off, turn it counter-clockwise). If the ride height is too low, the shock will
bottom out frequently, resulting in a bumpier ride. If the ride height is set too
high, the shock will “top out” more frequently and from smaller bumps, resulting
in a bumpier ride.
WHEELS AND TIRES
Wheel Inspection: Check wheels periodically for tightness of spokes, billet
wheels should be checked periodically for cracks or dents.
Tire Inspection: Check your tire pressure at least every week. If your tire is
under-inflated, you may experience bad handling, additionaly the tire may slip
off the rim, causing serious personal injury. If your tires are changed, the
replacements must be of the same type as those currently on the bike. IF the tire
strikes an object, such as a curb, at speed, internal damage may result, when
this happens, it’s a good idea to inspect the tire internally for damage.
CAUTION: Never put previously used, damaged, punctured or repaired tires
on your bike, once a tire has been damaged, it isn’t safe to use.
THE ENGINE
Hydraulic Liftes: Hydraulic lifters automatically adjust for engine expansion
and valve mechanism wear. For the first few minutes of starting an engine, the
valve mechanism will be noisier than usual until the hydraulic units refill with
oil. If the valves do not quiet down a few minutes after then engine has started,
valve mechanism becomes abnormally noisy, it’s an indication that one or more
of the hydraulic units may not be functioning properly. If a hydraulic unit
appears to have failed, verify that the oil tank is properly filled, and that the
Maintaining your KMC custom bike 6
hydraulic lifter oil screen is clean. If the oil tank is properly filled and the
problem persists contact customer service at KMC. The hydraulic lifter oil screen
should be removed and cleaned at every oil change.
Pushrods: The pushrods in the engine are adjustable to obtain the proper
pushrod length. Adjustments should only be done by an authorized service
center.
Ignition Timing: Ignition timing should be checked every 5000 miles. If the
timing is not correct, see your authorized service center.
THE PRIMARY DRIVE
Primary Drive Assembly: The primary drive of your KMC motorcycle is a dry belt
and clutch system. It should be inspected for wear and play every 5000 miles.
Transmission: Check clutch adjustment after the first 500 miles and after every
5000-mile interval. Oil level maintenance should be checked prior to every ride.
Shifter Linkage adjustment: Remove the bolts connecting the shift rod to the
forward control units. Loosen the jam nut at the base of the shift rod eyelet.
Spin the eyelet in to raise the lever or outward to lower the shift lever. Once
you have the lever where you want it, re-tighten the jam nut and reconnect the
shift lever to the forward controls.
THE FINAL DRIVE
The drive belt: The final drive belt’s inner tooth surface has a thin coating of
polyethylene. During the initial operation, this coating will wear as it is
burnished in the belt fabric. This is a normal condition and not an indication of
belt wear. Belt tension should be checked after the first 500 miles and every
2500 miles thereafter.
Perform belt tension check before operating motorcycle. The motorcycle should
be at room temperature and dry, or you may not get a correct measurement.
With the rear wheel on the ground and one rider sitting on the motorcycle, apply
10 Lbs.(ten pounds) of force at the mid-point of the belt. Belt deflection should
total approximately ¼” to ½” movement for proper belt tension. If belt requires
adjustment, go to an authorized KMC dealer.
Copyright 2002, Kodiak Motorcycle Company – www.kodiakmc.com
Maintaining your KMC custom bike 7
THE BRAKING SYSTEM
Front and Rear Brake Inspection: Initially, check your front and rear brake at
500 miles, and then at every additional 2500 mile interval afterwards. Brake pads
are normally inspected for wear every 2500 miles. However if you ride in adverse
conditions, such as steep hills or heavy traffic, you should inspect your brakes
every 1,000 miles. You can inspect the brake without having to take off the
caliper with a light, if the pads ever reach 1/16 of an inch thick or less, they
should be replaced immediately. Check the rear brake-caliper position on the
rear brake-disk, the disk should run true within the brake caliper. Ignoring your
brakes could result in serious injury if they were to fail while driving.
Brake line and Master Cylinder inspection and servicing: When you inspect
the brake pads and discs, also inspect the brake lines and master cylinders for
leakage. The rear wheel master cylinder is located beside the front brake hand
lever. To service the front brake master cylinder, stand the motorcycle on its
side stand with the handlebars turned fully towards the sidestand. This positions
the front brake master cylinder close to level. Remove the top plate of the
master cylinder and see if the fluid level is at the full line inside the reservoir.
CAUTION: AS BRAKES ARE A CRITICAL ITEM, BRAKE INSPECTION AND REPAIR
SHOULD BE DONE BY A LICENSCED KMC DEALER. ALWAYS HAVE PADS
REPLACED IN PAIRS.
The Clutch: The clutch cable should be checked after the first 500 miles, then
lubricated and adjusted every 5000 mile increment after that. When you feel the
clutch slipping under heavy load, it is time to service it.
The Fuel System: Carb controls include the throttle, enrichener, and idle
speed adjusting screw. All these should be inspected after the fist 500 miles and
after that at every 5000 mile increment.
THE FUEL SYSTEM
Battery: Battery connections should be cleaned and checked for tigtness every
2500 miles, or monthly. If the battery is filled too high, some of the solution may
be forced out the vent tube when the battery is charging. This will weaken the
solution and may damage the bike. Keep the battery clean and apply petroleum
jelly before attaching cables.
Battery Service and Installation: The seat will have to be removed to service
the battery. To do this, unscrew the knob that holds the seat to the back fender
and lift it up and off. Clean the cable connectors and battery terminals with a
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Maintaining your KMC custom bike 8
wire brush to remove oxidation. Coat the terminals with petroleum jelly and
reattach the cables to the proper terminals, positive first and then the negative.
Reinstall the seat the same way it was taken off.
CAUTION: CONNECTING THE CABLES TO THE WRONG TERMINALS CAN
SERIOUSLY DAMAGE THE MOTORCYCLE’S ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. IF A JUMPER
CABLE ATTACHED TO THE BOOSTER BATTERY COMES IN CONTACT WITH A
PAINTED SURFACE, IT WILL LIKELY CAUSE DISCOLORATION AT THE POINT OF
CONTACT.
Storing the Battery: If the bike is to be stored for longer than 30 days, it is
likely that there will not be enough power to crank it up, due to current drain.
To avoid current drain when storing, remove the battery and store it in a cool,
dry place.
Battery Jump-starting procedure: Never jump-start another vehicle with your
KMC bike. Although KMC does not recommend jump-starting your bike, it may
have to be done sometimes.
- When making connections, be sure the jumper cable clamps do not
accidentally touch each other or anything else exvept battery terminals or
appropriate ground.
- Avoid jump-starting where fire, or sparks are nearby because of the risk of
explosion.
- Connect one end of the of the positive jumper cable to the discharged
battery’s positive cable.
- Then connect the other end of the positive jumper cable to the booster
battery’s positive cable.
- Repeat this procedure for the negative cable.
- Start up your KMC bike.
- Remove the jumper cables in the reverse order.
Spark-plug and Plug-wire inspection and replacement: Inspect and if
necesary replace the spark-plugs and plug wires at the 500-mile mark, and at
every 2500 mile interval after that. Replace spark-plugs every 5,000 miles. Befor
installing spark-plugs, the gap should be checked and adjusted if necessary to
0.040”. Be sure the replacements are the same type as those being replaced. If
the engine seems to be running on one cylinder only, check the spark plug wire
that connects the spark plug to the coil. Install new spark-plugs with a torque-
wrench as they must be at a specified torque.
Head-light replacement: replace with a headlight of the same wattage only,
otherwise charging system problems may develop.
CAUTION: NEVER TOUCH THE BULB WITH YOUR FINGERS AS SKIN-OILS CAN
CAUSE THE BULB TO FAIL, HANDLE BULBS WITH A CLEAN, DRY CLOTH.
Copyright 2002, Kodiak Motorcycle Company – www.kodiakmc.com
Maintaining your KMC custom bike 9
Circuit-breaker: When the circuit-breaker trips, it’s because of an electrical
fault, the bike is equipped with a self-diagnostic computer behind the battery, if
you cannot fix the electrical fault with the information that the diagnostics
provide you, your KMC bike should be brought to an authorized KMC dealer to be
repaired.
Signal-flasher replacement: These are built into the wiring harness and should
only be accessed by an authorized KMC dealer.
Copyright 2002, Kodiak Motorcycle Company – www.kodiakmc.com
Trouble-shooting your KMC bike
YOUR KMC CUSTOM BIKE IS EQUIPED WITH A SELF-DIAGNOSTICS COMPUTER
THAT CAN HELP YOU PINPOINT THE SOURCE OF YOUR PROBLEM SO IT CAN
BE RECTIFIED. FOR EXAMPLE, ALMOST EVERY ENGINE OPERATION PROBLEM
CAN BE TRACED TO ONE OF FOUR THINGS.
- Electrical
- Fuel
- Air
- Mechanical
If the engine will not start, a good way to start is to think your way through
these four areas; using the process of elimination you can pinpoint the
problem.
Electrical:
- Is the ignition switch closed?
- Is the ignition switch on?
- Is the battery charged and are the cells full of water?
- Is there a spark (electric current) to the spark plugs?
Fuel:
- Is there fuel flow to the engine?
Air:
- Is there anything obstructing airflow such as a clogged air filter?
Mechanical:
- Is there any indication of a mechanical problem such as grinding,
knocking, extensive oil seepage, and metal shavings?
THIS TROUBLE-SHOOTING SECTION IS SOLEY MEANT TO BE A GUIDE WHEN
DIAGNOSING PROBLEMS. DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY REPAIR WORK THAT YOU
ARE UNSURE OF, BRING IT IN TO AN AUTHORIZED KMC DEALER INSTEAD.
Copyright 2002, Kodiak Motorcycle Company – www.kodiakmc.com
Trouble-shooting your KMC bike
ENGINE
Starter does not operate or does not turn over:
- Check if the Engine Run switch is in “Off” position.
- Make sure the ignition switch is on.
- Check for a discharged battery, loose, corroded, or broken connections
observable through solenoid chatter.
Engine turns over but doesn’t start:
- Check if the fuel valve is turned off (if the fuel is low, the valve should
be turned to “Reserve”.
- Make sure the fuel tank’s not empty.
- Make sure the throttle is held open when the enrichener is used.
- Check that the engine isn’t flooded; this can happen if the fuel-mix has
been over-enrichened.
- Inspect the spark plugs for fouling.
- Make sure the fuel-valve isn’t clogged.
- Inspect the spark-plug cable connections to make sure they aren’t loose
or in bad condition and shorting.
- Check for loose or corroded wire or cable connection(s) at the coil.
- During the winter especially, ensure the oil is not too viscous.
The Engine is hard to start:
- Make sure the fuel vent isn’t plugged and that the carb fuel line isn’t
closed off, thereby restricting fuel-flow.
- Inspect the spark plugs, replace them if they’re in bad condition or the
gap is too large or are partially fouled.
- Loose wire or cable connections at one of the wire connections or at the
coil.
- Spark-plug cables in bad condition and arcing.
- Check if the battery is properly charged.
- Check that the carb is adjusted properly.
- Make sure the ignition is timed properly.
- Ensure there’s no dirt or water in the fuel system and carb.
- During the winter especially, ensure the oil is not too viscous.
Engine Starts, but runs irregularly or misses:
- Spark plug cables in bad condition or partially fouled.
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Trouble-shooting your KMC bike
- Spark-plug cables have been detached, be sure to check both ends.
- Spark-plug gap too closed or too wide.
- Check if the battery is properly charged.
- Check for damaged wires or loose connections at the battery terminals
or coils.
- Intermittent short-circuit due to damaged wire insulation.
- Ensure there’s no dirt or water in the fuel system, filter or carb.
- Make sure the fuel-valve isn’t clogged.
- Check for air-leaks in the intake manifold.
- Check that the air-filter’s not clogged.
A Spark plug fouls repeatedly:
- Excessive enrichener use.
- Fuel-mixture too rich.
- Incorrect spark plug.
- Incorrect ignition timing.
- Air-filter clogged.
- Excessive “pumping” of the throttle grip.
Pre-ignition Detonation (Knocks or Pings):
- Incorrect fuel.
- Incorrect spark plug for the kind of service.
- Incorrect ignition timing.
- Lugging the engine.
Overheats:
- Insufficient oil-supply or oil not circulating.
- Heavy carbon deposit from “lugging” the engine.
- Ignition timing retarded or overly advanced.
- Carb set too lean.
- No airflow over engine, i.e. Stopped in traffic.
Copyright 2002, Kodiak Motorcycle Company – www.kodiakmc.com
Trouble-shooting your KMC bike
Excessive Vibration:
- Stabilizer links worn or loose.
- Engine isolation mounts loose.
- Rear fork pivot shaft nut loose.
- Front engine mounting bolts loose.
- Engine to Transmission bolts loose.
- Broken frame.
- Wheels and/or tires damaged.
- Vehicle not properly aligned.
- Final or primary-drive belt badly worn.
LUBRICATION SYSTEM
Oil doesn’t return to oil-tank:
- Oil tank empty.
- Restricted oil lines or fittings.
- Restricted oil-filter.
- Internal motor damage.
Engine leaks oil from cases, pus-rods, or hoses:
- Loose parts.
- Imperfect seal at gaskets, push-rod cover, washers, etc.
- Restricted oil-return line to tank.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Alternater doesn’t charge:
- Regulator not grounded.
- Engine ground wire loose or broken.
- Loose or broken wires in charging circuit.
- Malfunction in charging system.
Alternator charge-rate is below normal:
- Weak battery.
- Excessive use of add-on accessories.
- Loose or corroded connections.
- Extensive periods of idling or low-speed riding.
- Malfunction in charging system.
Copyright 2002, Kodiak Motorcycle Company – www.kodiakmc.com
Trouble-shooting your KMC bike
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TRANSMISSION
Hard to shift:
- Transmission shifting mechanism needs adjustment.
- Bent shifter fork.
- Clutch out of adjustment.
Transmission jumps out of gear:
- Shifter rod improperly adjusted.
- Shifter forks bent (inside the transmission).
- Worn shifter clutching gears in transmission.
- Bent shifter fork.
Clutch Slips:
- Clutch controls improperly adjusted.
- Worn friction disks.
- Insufficient clutch spring tension.
Clutch drags or does not release:
- Clutch controls improperly adjusted.
- Clutch discs warped.
- Excessive clutch-spring tension.
Clutch Chatters:
- Friction discs or steel discs worn or warped.
BRAKES
Brakes do not hold normally:
- Front or rear master cylinder low on fluid.
- Brake line contains air-bubbles.
- Brake-pads contaminated with grease or oil.
- Brake pads badly worn (1/16” is the minimum lining thickness).
- Brake disk badly worn or warped.
- Brake fades because of heat build-up.
- Excessive braking or brake pads dragging.
- Brake drags. Insufficient hand lever on rear pedal free play.
- Master or wheel cylinder piston worn.
Cleaning and Storing your KMC Bike
GENERAL CLEANING
CAUTION: DO NOT WASH YOUR BRAKE DISCS WITH ANY CLEANERS THAT
CONTAIN EITHER CHLORINE OR SILICONE. CHLORINE WILL CAUSE RUST AND
SILICONE WILL MAKE THE BRAKE DISCS SLICK, IMPAIRING BRAKE FUNCTION.
Chrome: Use a cleaner specifically for chrome, not a multi-purpose cleaner as
many contain abrasives. Do not wax your chrome, use chrome polish since
chrome needs to breathe.
Leather: If your KMC bike came with leather seats, the leather must be
cared for. Clean and treat it once a season, or more frequently if riding under
adverse conditions. Use only saddle soap and a leather treatment.
Taking care of the paint job: By following these guidelines, you can ensure
that your KMC bike’s paint job lasts many years.
- Keep your bike inside when not riding, or if it has to be outside, try to
avoid the hot sun with a bike cover. Over time, wind, and daily exposure
to sunlight all take their toll on your paint job if it is not protected.
- Keep it clean and waxed.
- When cleaning, do not wash with cool water when the bike has been out
in the sun and is hot. This can cause the metal underneath to contract
and break the bond with the paint. When waxing, apply and remove wax
in the same way the paint was applied, in a linear back and forth motion
following the contour of the surface. This avoids etching swirl marks into
the finish, Apply wax with your fingers, this allows you to detect any grit
or abrasive particles before scratching the clear-coat.
- Wipe off gasoline spills immediately. Certain chemicals and additives
within gasoline can dull or fog your paint job if allowed to remain on the
paint.
- Use only approved cleaners and waxes on your paint job. Harsh cleaners
may work great for removing road tar, but may also remove or dull your
paint.
- Avoid constant rubbing with any clothing or gear on your paint.
Copyright 2002, Kodiak Motorcycle Company – www.kodiakmc.com
Cleaning and Storing your KMC Bike
STORAGE
Proper long-term storage is important for the safe, trouble-free operation of
your KMC bike. If you do not wish to perform these tasks yourself, contact your
authorized dealer or service center.
Preparing your motorcycle for storage: Of your motorcycle will not be
operated for several months, such as during winter, follow these steps to
prevent corrosion, preserve the battery and prevent the build-up of gum and
varnish in the carb:
- Warm your KMC bike to operating temperature and change the oil and
filter. Start the engine and run it until the oil light goes out.
- Fill the fuel tank and add a gasoline stabilizer. Run the engine until the
gasoline stabilizer has a chance to reach the carburetor float bowl. Turn
the fuel supply valve off.
- Adjust the belt.
- Inflate tires to proper pressure.
- Wash and wax painted and chrome surfaces.
- See the previous section, “Maintaining your KMC bike” for instructions on
how to remove the battery for storage.
- If the bike is to be covered, use a material such as light canvas that will
breathe. Materials such as plastic covering promote condensation which
leads to corrosion.
CAUTION: TO AVOID THE DANGER OF IGNITING GAS FUMES, DO NOT STORE
YOUR BIKE WITH A FULL TANK OF GAS NEAR TO PILOT LIGHTS, OPEN FLAMES
OR SOURCES OF SPARKS.
Make a list of everything you do to prep the bike for storage and fasten it to a
hand-grip. When you take it out of storage, this becomes your reference list to
get your bike back in operating condition. After extended periods of storage
and prior to starting vehicle, place transmission in gear, disengage the clutch,
and push the bike back and forth a few feet to ensure proper clutch
disengagement. Re-install the battery and if needed, recharge it.
- Remove and inspect the spark plugs. Replace if necessary.
Copyright 2002, Kodiak Motorcycle Company – www.kodiakmc.com
Cleaning and Storing your KMC Bike
Copyright 2002, Kodiak Motorcycle Company – www.kodiakmc.com
- Clean the air cleaner element.
- Start the engine and run it until in reaches normal operating
temperature. Then turn off the engine.
- Check the amount of oil in the oil tank.
- Check the transmission lubricant level.
- Check controls to be sure they are operating properly.
- Check steering for smoothness by turning the handlebars through the full
operating range.
- Check the tire pressure, incorrect pressure will result in poor riding
characteristics and can affect handling and stability.
- Check all electrical equipment and switches, including the stop light,
turn signals, and horn for proper operation.
- Check for any fuel, oil, or brake fluid leaks.
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