EzTilt Table DIY top Instructions
Material List:
1. (10) 3 x 5’ HardiBacker® Cement Board Sheets
2. (4) 3 x 5’ Wonderboard Cement Board Sheets
3. (5) Silicone or latex caulking tubes
4. (1) 50lb Bag thin-set material with acrylic latex additive
Tool List:
• Hammer Drill
• 1/4” Masonry Drill Bit
• Jig saw
• Bi-metal jig saw blade
• Impact Screw Gun or Ratchet wrench
• 7/16” Socket
• Grinder or saw
• Diamond Blade
• Caulking gun
• 2 1/4 hole saw bit
• 1/4” Notched trowel
• (2) 5 gallon bucket
• Paddle mixer for drill
• Tile sponge
• 12 and 6’ straight edge (or use your AccuGlide
Tracks)
Material Cut List
A. (4 Pc.) 36 x 60” (full sheet)
B. (4 pc.) 35 x 60”
C. (1 pc) 15 3/4 x 35”
D. (1 pc) 15 3/4 x 36”
E. (1 pc) 16 1/2 x 35”
F. (1 pc) 16 1/2 x 36”
3) Calking the Joints:
Spread a bead of caulk were the 2nd layer will
overlap with the 1st layer of cement board. This
step will ensure correct water drainage. Work
quickly to step 4 before caulk sets up.
Installing HardiBacker® Board Layers
1) Preparing table for the Cement Board:
Install the cement board while the table is in
the vertical position. To prepare the table for
stacking, first clamp supports on the bottom of
the table (G. Orange Rectangles). Ensure the
supports are strong enough to handle the load of
the cement board. 4 x18” strips of wood, metal
or granite can be used . Clamp to the 3x3” table
beam with 4-8” C-Clamps.
2) Stacking the 1st layer:
Stack the 1st layer as depicted in figure 1. Refer
to the cut list above for specific dimensions on
each piece.
A.
F.
A.
B. E.
B.
G.
Figure 1: 1st Layer
Figure 2: 2nd Layer
B. C.
B.
A. D.
A.
4) Stack the 2nd layer:
Place the 2nd layer as depicted in figure 2.
Refer to the material list below.
Material List
A. 36 x 60” (full sheet)
B. 35 x 60”
C. 15 3/4 x 35”
D. 15 3/4 x 36”
Joint Overlap: Figure 3
Layer 2 pieces should overlap on all interior
seams by one inch
Figure 3: Joint Overlap
5) Prepare for Drilling:
Clamp a wood 2x4 or 12.6’ tracks over
the center seam to lock all sheets to-
gether (I.)
Clamp another wood block (H.) on the
top center to keep the sheets in place
while drilling (Depicted Figure 3)
6) Drill Holes/ secure sheets:
Drill four corner holes in all sheets and
start the provided elevator bolts on the
corners. Do not tighten.
7) Drill remaining field holes/ place hard-
ware:
Drill holes from the back of the table
using a hammer drill and a masonry drill
bit. Place the elevator bolts in the holes
from the front of table and set the car-
riage heads into the HardieBacker with a
large hammer.
8) Bolt down all hardware:
Start the 1/4” washers and 7/16” nuts
on the back of table . Use an impact
screw gun or ratchet wrench to tighten.
Start with the center bolts and work
your way to the out side. Torque the
bolts sufficiently making sure the eleva-
tor bolt heads are set as flat as possible
on the top of the table. Do not over
tighten.
9) Remove all support blocks and tilt table
to horizontal position.
H.
I.
Figure 3: Securing Sheets for Drilling
Layer 1 seam
Layer 2 seam
1” overlap
Installing Cutting Surface - Layer 3
10) Cut Wonderboard Material:
Cut 16 pieces of 11 7/8 x 36” for yield of
five pieces per board using 3 x 5’ sheet.
Note: If a smaller water drainage gap be-
tween the Wonderboard is desired cut 20
pieces and place a 2 3/4’” gap between
boards and the edge boards flush to the out-
side of the table.
2 3/4” 11 7/8” 5”
11) Layout:
For layout depicted, mark the table with a chalk line or rip spacer plywood boards to set the gap with
when bonding.
12) Prepare the Table for bonding:
Important Step: Wet the table top down with a sponge. This step will allow the thin-set to cure
slowly for a strong bond. Bonding to the dry HardiBacker® surface will result in flash dry and a very
weak bond. Allow any surface water to dry before bonding with mortar mix.
13) Bond the WonderBoard Strips:
Mix tile mortar (thin-set) in a five gallon bucket using an acrylic additive. We recommend Kerabond®
Tile Mortar and Keralastic® acrylic additive made by Mapei® available from most Tile supply stores.
Tip: The thin-set should be on the thin side but still able to hold its shape when toweled with a 1/4”
notch trowel. If the temperature is hot, dampen the table periodically before gluing each strip to pre-
vent the thin set from firing off and loosing bonding strength.
If outside, do this operation in the morning to prevent any sun from heating the table while working
the thin set.
Set four 3’ piece at a time, taping down each piece with a rubber mallet to ensure good bond. Place the
first piece flush with the bottom of the table opposite the water pan, this will overlap the center
seam, the other end will hang over the top of the table by 1” and should be trimmed once the thin-
set has cured.
After two 6’ strips have been set, check with a straight edge and hit down on the high spots with a rub-
ber mallet. Place weight on the ends and middle of the Wonderboard and set two more strips.
Once four 6’ strips are set re-check with a straight edge in both directions and diagonally. Adjust as
needed. Be carful not to over work the thin set or the bond will weaken.
Once the entire top is set, place a moderate amount of weight on all high points along with ends and
middles, allow it to cure for at least 8 hours before removing the weight .
14) Trim the 1’ overhang off the top and edges of the table.
Installing cement board blocks on the water pan outriggers (optional):
Cut List:
(10 pc) 7 x 3” HardiBacker® board
(5 pc) 7 x 3” Wonder Board
16) Drill two 1/4” holes into each of the 3 x 7” HardieBacker blocks and countersink 3/8” deep. Mark
the hole placement on the steel and drill the steel with a 1/8” pilot drill.
Glue the blocks to the steel with Silicon or PL panel adhesive with self taping screws, making sure
the screw pulls down flush with the surface.
17) Glue on the second layer of HardieBacker and Wonderboard block with a generous amount of PL
adhesive. Place weight or clamp the blocks in place until the glue sets up.
18) Waterproof the top with a masonry grade waterproof liquid (optional)
For Further Instruction or Technical Questions Call us at 888-742-0358
Cutting out Slab Peg Sleeves:
15) Core the slab pin holes (pictured, or-
ange circle/square in the diagram) using
the 2 1/4 core bit.
First mark the holes by drilling with the
1/4” masonry bit from the back of the
table.
For the square hole, first drill with the 2
1/4” hole saw and then remove corners
with a jig saw and blade.
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