Millenium x-trainer Assembly Instructions Manual

Brand: Millenium

Model: x-trainer

Type: Assembly Instructions Manual

This manual is also suitable for

slow stick x

Millennium RC presents…

The New and Improved

(now even easier to build and cover!)

SSX – X-Trainer Build Kit

Wing span: Approx. 42”

Wing Area: 504 sq. in.

Wing Loading: 6.71 oz/ sq. ft.

Introduction:

The Slow Stick X and X-Trainer airplanes are available either as a complete kit which includes all of the

fuselage components or as “short kit” upgrade to the GWS Slow Stick

™ Electric ARF Park Flyer Airplane Kit

™. The “short” kit replaces the original Styrofoam wing and tail surfaces of the Slow Stick to a more robust

balsa-constructed design, complete with ailerons and a full symmetrical wing, allowing the Slow Stick to

become a fully aerobatic model aircraft. This wing and tail are designed to easily attach to your existing stick

fuselage. This build kit can be built either as a Slow Stick X™ (with the straight wing) or as the X-

Trainer™ (with a dihedral wing). The Slow Stick X is also available as a pre-built and covered ARF.

Adult supervision recommended for children 15 and under. R/C Airplanes should be flown following safety

guidelines provided by the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics).

CAUTION: This is not a toy!

Recommendations:

1. Read through each step before starting assembly.

2. After removing all the pieces from packaging, inspect to make sure there are no broken or missing parts.

3. Check off each completed step to help keep from losing your place.

4. Cover the work table with plastic wrap to protect from glue.

List of Provided “Short Kit” Parts:

(“Short Kit” is intended for those who are wishing to upgrade

another 10mm stick-fuselage airplane such as the GWS Slow

Stick to a more aerobatic and robust model airplane)

1. All laser-cut balsa and plywood parts needed to

complete the wing/tail sections as shown below

2. 4 control horns

3. .047 piano wire for aileron pushrods

4. 2 (#2) 1/2” sheet metal screws (to hold tail section

on fuselage)

5. 2 #2 washers

6. #33 rubber bands

7. 5/32” aluminum tubing for rubber band post

extenders (not needed if using Millennium R/C’s

improved wing mounts)

8. CA Hinges

The Slow Stick X and the X-Trainer are also

available as a Build Kit Bundle (complete kit)

which includes the following additional items:

1. Slow Stick X Decal or X-Trainer Decal

2. X-Fuse Fuselage Set which includes wing mounts,

lipo battery mount with Velcro strap, foam tape for

mounting receiver, servo mounts, adjustable pushrod

guides, steerable tail gear and necessary

screws/hardware for these parts.

3. 2-piece 10mm square carbon fiber fuselage with

joiner piece

4. Millennium R/C outrunner motor mount

5. X-Gear ABS nylon plastic/carbon fiber landing gear

6. 2 2 ½” foam wheels

7. 1 1” wheel for steerable tail gear

8. .047 piano wire for rudder & elevator pushrods

Additional Items Required :

1. Diagonal cutters

2. Small screw driver

3. Pliers

4. Allen key set

5. Cyanoacrylate or CA Glue (thin and thick)

6. Hobby knife

7. 80-grit and 100-grit sandpaper

8. Sanding block

9. Tape measure and/or yardstick

10. Square

11. Razor saw

12. A park-flyer type lightweight plastic covering (Ex:

Ultracote Lite ™) and any tools recommended in its

instructions for application

13. Four mini servos for ailerons, rudder and elevator

14. Recommended mtor and speed control (400 style

outrunner, 125-200 watts with 20 amp speed control,

or equivalent)

15. Battery and propeller (use what is recommended in

instructions for motor)

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Disclaimer:

Millennium R/C assumes no responsibility for

any accident or injury to persons or damage to

property.

Slow Stick X™ or X-Trainer™ Wing/Tail Build Kit Assembly Instructions Rev. 14

IMPORTANT:

DO NOT GLUE UNTIL INSTRUCTED TO DO SO!

NOTE: These instructions include steps for

building the wing either as a straight-wing Slow

Stick X OR the dihedral wing X-Trainer.

Wing assembly

The top of this wing is identified by the

installation of the main spar. The main spar

(SC1) is always installed from the TOP of the

wing.

Step-1: (Spar Crutch) Glue SC1 and SC1-A

together. Use SC1-B if you are building the

SSX as a trainer. Trim the plywood wing joiner

P2 for “dihedral” or “no dihedral”.

Step-2: Glue SC2-A to wing rib W2. Pay

attention to orientation. The circle in SC2-A

should be close to W2 and near the bottom. Use

SC2-B if you are building the trainer.

Remember, the opposing wing half is a

mirrored version. SC2-A/B should be square to

W2.

Step-3: Install but do not glue SC1 assembly.

The small holes in SC1 and SC2-A/B should

line-up.

Step-4: Install, do not glue W3 ribs.

Step-5: Glue TE-C pieces to TE-A. TE-A

should be square to TE-C.

Step-6: Install, DO NOT glue TE (trailing

edge) assembly to ribs. Parts are delicate at this

point.

Step-7: Install, DO NOT glue 3/16" square

spar sticks. Tip! Look straight down the sticks

to determine natural bow. Install sticks so bow

is opposite opposing stick’s bow. This will help

make the wing truer.

Step-8: Install, DO NOT glue LE (leading

edge) crutch.

Step-9: Install end rib W4. Square W4 to LE

and TE then glue to TE and LE only.

Step-10: CAUTION! DO NOT install W1A

upside down. Install W1A and B. The notch in

the front of W1A should be facing the bottom

(Servo Side) of the wing. Square the LE and

TE to W1 and Glue at TE and LE. Use a small

scrap piece of 1/16" ply to shim the space

between SC1 and SC2-A/B. The parts should

be shimmed such that the plywood wing joiner

P2 should slide into the wing. Use extra

caution not to glue the shims or P2 in place.

Use a tiny dot of medium CA to tack the spar

sticks, SC1, SC2-A/B, W1 and W2 in place.

Pull the shims out and test fit P2. Remove P2,

place the wing on a flat surface so the spar is

straight and continue tack-gluing all joints. Lift

the wing off your work surface and use thin CA

to glue all joints. Take caution not to glue the

wing to your work surface or your face. LOL ☺

Step-11: Glue LE-B top and bottom in place.

Keep trailing edge straight while gluing with

thin CA. Tip! Scotch Tape and Packing tape are

great for keeping the parts from gluing to the

work surface.

Step-12: Glue 1/8” X ¼” stringers and 3/16”

square leading edge as shown.

Step-13: Glue 1/16” sheeting as shown. Take

note of servo wire hole location in bottom

sheeting.

Step-14: Glue wing hinge sockets in place. Be

sure to align the center markings with the edge

of TE-A. Sand hinge sockets flush with TE-B

on both top and bottom of wing.

Step-15: Glue with medium CA, WT3, WT6,

WT9, WT10, WT11 (wing tip) and hinge block

as shown. Slot for hinge should face the trailing

edge of wing tip.

Step-16: Install DO NOT glue WT1 and

WT2.

Step-17: Glue wing tip assembly to W4 wing

tip. Be sure the trailing edge is straight with the

main wing trailing edge.

Step-18: Glue wing tip stiffeners WT4, WT5

and WT7 in place.

Step-19: Round-off leading edge and tip of

wing. Leave trailing edge flat, but sand flush

TE-A and TE-B.

Step-20: Sand 3/16 Square leading edge piece

flush with Part LE so that plywood part P1 sits

flat.

Step-21: Glue P1 in place.

Step-22: Build two aileron servo blocks from

parts P3 and P5. At this time, go ahead and

complete the other wing half. Be sure to make

the opposite half a mirrored image of the first

half.

Step-23: Install the servo block as shown.

Sand as much of the laser burn from the

wing as possible without distorting the shape of

the wing parts. Sand sheeting and other parts

flush with W1 so when the two wing halves are

brought together, the left and right W1 ribs join

together flush. Be careful not to oversand.

Cover the wing halves with light model

covering before joining them permanently. Do

not completely cover the side of the W1 center

rib.

Step-24: Glue P2 and P4 in place on one wing

half. Use slow drying glue on P2 such as

epoxy. You only need enough glue to attach P2

to the top and bottom spar sticks. Apply glue to

P2 and W1. Now join the two wing halves.

Note the picture shows an uncovered wing. Do

not join the two wing halves until they are

covered. You may also install covered ailerons,

servos and linkage before this step is you so

choose.

Step-25: Cut from 3/16 square sticks: (2) 19-

1/2” (1) 4-1/2”, (2) 4”, (6) 3-3/4”, (2) 3-1/4”,

(8) 2-1/2” (2) 2-1/4” and set aside. Be sure to

cut longest to shortest. Use the scraps as much

as possible. Cut (24) aileron stiffeners by using

part A1 or A2 as a cutting guide.

Step-26: Build two aileron frames from 19-

1/2” cut stick (See Step-25), A1, A2 and pre cut

aileron leading edge pieces. Note hinge slots

are pre cut and need to be positioned on the

edge of the aileron leading edge. Be sure to

align the hinge slots on the two leading edge

pieces. Be sure to use a straight edge such as a

ruler to keep the leading edge straight while

building.

Step-27: Glue the stiffeners into the aileron

frame. Exact position of stiffeners is not critical

as long as they do not block hinge slots. Half of

the stiffeners can be omitted for a lighter

model.

Step-28: Bevel the leading edge of the ailerons

to a blunt point. Round-off the trailing and side

edges. Sand smooth and cover with light model

covering.

Step-29: Cut covering at hinge slots on the

wing and ailerons and insert CA hinges. Use a

pin pushed through the center of the hinge to

keep it from pushing all the way through while

installing the ailerons (See picture 29A). Check

that the aileron moves freely. Soak the hinge

with thin CA glue. The style and size supplied

with this kit may vary. It may be necessary to

make the hinge slots deeper.

Step-30: Assemble the rear wing saddle from

parts P10, P8, P7 and P9. Bend P7 along the

dotted line so it forms over P9. When building

the trainer kit use P9T in place of P9 and P10

will be bent to conform to the dihedral of the

wing. It is also necessary to shim the mount

with 1/8” ply parts P16 between P10 and the

wing when building the trainer version. Be sure

to remove the covering where the saddle is

glued to the wing.

Step-31: Assemble the front wing saddle parts

P11 in a stack. Glue the assembly to the front

of P1. If you are building the trainer, it is

necessary to trim P11 at the dotted line before

gluing the stack together. You also need to

shim P11 1/8” using P15 for the trainer version

only.

This completes the wing.

Stab assembly

(Assembly up to Step 25 must be completed

before proceeding to tail section)

Step-32: Assemble the tail mount as shown

glue together with CA and cover if desired. The

vertical and horizontal stabs are assembled on a

flat surface. Be sure to protect the surface from

glue. A 1:1 scale drawing is provided to use as

a template. 3/16” square sticks for the stabs

were cut in step 25. Note that S3 is a Stack

made up of S3A and S3B. The plywood piece

S3A needs to be on the bottom of the horizontal

stab. Bevel the leading edge of the rudder and

elevator. Round-off all other edges with the

exception of base of the vertical stab. Cover the

stab with light model covering. Hinge using

same method as in step 29.

Step-33: Trim the covering away from the top

center of the horizontal stab where the tail

mount will be glued. Insert the tail mount into

the slots on the horizontal stab and secure with

thin CA glue. Trim the covering from the

vertical stab tab insert it into the top of the tail

mount and square it to the horizontal stab.

Secure the vertical stab with thin CA.

The SSX tail section is designed to be

adjustable. The tail mount assembly has 3 P12

formers. The fuselage tube needs only to pass

through the first 2 P12 formers. This allows the

end of the fuse to be positioned anywhere

between the second and third P12 formers.

This completes the stab assembly

Fuselage Assembly

(not included in “short kit”)

Use the existing GWS parts from your GWS Slow

Stick™ or use the parts from our X-Fuse set.

Refer to Drawing Insert #1 for details on

fuselage assembly. Drawing 1 is scaled so that

it can be accurately measured to determine

fuselage component locations. ¼” on the

drawing will actually be 1” on the model. Wait

till the model is balanced to screw the wing

mounts and tail section in place. Refer to X-

Gear instruction sheet for assembly of X-Gear.

Temporarily mount all components including

the battery, prop, control horns and wheels.

Install linkage to ailerons and stab but leave the

stab push rods long so you can adjust the length

of the tail. Temporarily mount the wing and

stab as well. Balance the model by supporting

the model on your finger tips at the CG

location. Do NOT add weight to balance the

aircraft. Move the wing back if the model is tail

heavy or forward if it is nose heavy. Ultimately

you want the length between the wing and tail

to be maximized. More advanced pilots can

move the CG further back for more

performance. Once you have the CG set go

ahead and secure all the hardware and complete

the linkage.

Use CA glue to attach fuselage joiner to one

end of the shorter fuselage stick (tail end).

Slide one end of the longer fuselage stick into

the joiner and attach with provided screw. Cut

excess off end of screw and file down sharp

edges. See image below:

Slide the push rod guide onto the tail end of the

fuselage. Then slide the rear wing saddle

mount onto the front end of the fuselage,

approximately 15 ½” down the stick. DO

NOT SCREW IN YET.

Slide the two servo mounts down about an inch

from the rear wing saddle mount. Now slide

the front wing saddle mount, approximately 5

½” down from the front.

Slide the battery mount, onto the fuselage,

approximately 1” – ½” from the front. DO

NOT glue or screw in any of these plastic parts

yet, as they are in temporary positions. See

Drawing 1 for details:

Feed the long wire push rod through the push

rod guide and through the guide holes in the

rear wing saddle, so that the “Z-bend” is at the

tail section. Repeat on both sides.

Install the servos, as per servo manufacturer

instructions, using servo manufacturer-

provided hardware. DO NOT SCREW any of

the parts in yet. See picture below:

Final Assembly

Attach the “Z-bend” end of the long control

rods into the middle hole of each one of the tail

section control horns. Feed the control rods

through the rod guides on the fuselage and then

slide the tail section on to the fuselage. See

Drawing 1 for details.

Drill two small holes on the bottom front and

center of the horizontal stabilizer. Use the #2

½” screws to fasten the fuselage to the tail

assembly. Holes should be about 3/8” from

leading edge of the horizontal stabilizer and

spaced 1” Do not damage the wood when

tightening. Use provided #2 washers. See

Drawing 1 for details.

If using your existing GWS fuselage this step

would be necessary. Installing Rubber Band

Post Extenders: One minor design flaw in the

original Slow Stick is that the rubber band

posts are too short. Using 5/32 aluminum

tubing, cut 4 3/8” long pieces. (Some kits may

come with these already cut). Use thick CA

glue and glue them to the existing rubber band

posts of the original Slow Stick wing saddles.

Make sure you do not leave sharp edges that

can cut the rubber bands. I like to fill the tube

with thick CA and leave a bead at the top of the

tube. If you do not have a tubing cutter, you

can use an X-acto knife in a rolling action to

cut the tubing. Our new X-Fuse eliminates the

need for rubber band post extenders.

Main Wing Decal

(not included in “short kit”)

1. Cut excess material from decal before

removing the backing.

2. Remove the protective backing to expose

the adhesive.

3. Add about 3 drops of dish soap to 2 pints of

clean water. Put it in a spray bottle and

spray the back of the decal.

4. Allow the decal to dry overnight.

5. Slide the decal into position and squeegee

the excess water from under the decal.

Control Throws

Most advanced modelers will want every bit of

control they can squeeze from this model.

Advanced pilots will set all throws to

maximum and use rates where appropriate.

Beginners should set controls to 50% of the

maximum possible or 25 degrees for ailerons

and elevator and max for rudder.

First flight:

Be sure all controls are set

correctly. Set low rates to about 50%. Take-off

should be at half throttle with recommended

power plant. Climb to a higher altitude and

adjust trims as needed. You should find that

this aircraft has a very low stall rate and is

capable of most acrobatics. Happy flying!

Enjoy Your New Millennium R/C

Slow Stick X or X-Trainer!

If you should find a part missing or damaged, or

have any questions about assembly, please contact

us at the address below:

Millennium R/C

12859 Lower River Blvd. Orlando, FL 32828

Phone: 407-208-9745

Fax: 866-799-2372

E-mail: [email protected]

www.millenniumrc.com

www.FlyERC.com

For updates and tips, visit the Slow Stick X or X-

Trainer Build Thread on RC Groups:

www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=646592

Millenium x-trainer Assembly Instructions Manual

Brand: Millenium

Model: x-trainer

Type: Assembly Instructions Manual

This manual is also suitable for

slow stick x

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Millenium x-trainer Assembly Instructions Manual

This manual is also suitable for

Millenium x-trainer Assembly Instructions Manual

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