Hitachi CS 33ED, CS33EDP User manual

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PRODUCT NAME
Hitachi Engine Chain Saw
Models CS 33EDP
CS 33ED
International Sales Division
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1
1. Troubleshooting and correction ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1
REPAIR GUIDE ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 3
1. Precautions on maintenance, inspection and repair ----------------------------------------------------- 3
2. Inspection criteria for each section and consumable parts --------------------------------------------- 3
CONTENTS
Page
LIST Nos.
CS 33EDP: F050
CS 33ED: F049
Mar. 2014
C
-1-
1. Troubleshooting and correction
Trouble Cause Corrective action
Starter
handle
cannot be
pulled.
The crank shaft does
not rotate.
Faulty piston ring
Disassemble and
replace.
Seized piston and cylinder
Faulty crank shaft bearings
Magneto rotor contact with ignition coil
The recoil starter
does not rotate.
Broken recoil starter
Inspect and replace.
Faulty starter pawl
Clogging of dirt in starter pawl Clean.
Startup is
impossible.
No compression
Faulty piston ring
Replace.
Worn piston
Worn cylinder
Short-circuited due to foreign matter between the spark plug
electrodes.
Remove foreign matter:
In case of frequent
occurrence, disassemble
and clean the engine.
No spark
Stop switch not at startup position Adjust to startup position.
Dirty or faulty spark plug
Clean or replace.
Improperly connected plug cap
Inspect and replace.
Disconnected or improperly connected
high voltage cord
Repair or replace.
Ground connection of high voltage
cord
Repair.
Disconnected or faulty ignition coil
ass’y
Replace.
Large gap between the magneto rotor
circumference and ignition coil ass’y
Adjust.
The spark plug does
not become wet with
fuel after repeated
starting operation.
No fuel in the fuel tank
Add properly mixed fuel
(25:1 to 50:1).
Clogged fuel filter Clean or replace.
Faulty fuel pipe
Adjust, replace or
connect.
Faulty vent hole (inner cap) on the fuel
tank
Replace.
Faulty carburetor ass’y Adjust, clean or replace.
The spark plug is wet
due to excessive fuel
supplied.
Pulling the starter handle several
times while the choke lever is at the
“startup” position.
Dry the spark plug.
Remove excessive fuel.
Idling stops
although
startup is
possible.
Weak spark
Dirty or faulty spark plug Clean or replace.
Improper air gap Adjust.
Low compression
Worn piston ring
Replace. Worn piston
Worn cylinder
Good spark and
compression
Revolutions too low for idling
Adjust.
Poorly adjusted carburetor ass’y
Defective sealing of the packing
Replace.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
-2-
Trouble Cause Corrective action
Starts, but
when
accelerating
The engine stalls.
Clogged fuel filter Clean or replace.
Insufficient warm-up Warm up.
Poorly adjusted carburetor ass’y
Adjust.
Poor acceleration;
no increase in
revolutions
Clogged cylinder vent passage,
exhaust port and/or carbon-clogged
muffler
Clean.
Clogged air cleaner
Chain brake set on Release.
Poorly adjusted carburetor ass’y Adjust, clean or replace.
Starts, but
Fluctuating
revolutions at high
speed
Dirt-clogged high-speed fuel line Clean.
Defective sealing of the packing Replace.
Faulty carburetor ass’y Adjust, clean or replace.
Excessive fuel
consumption
Clogged air cleaner Clean.
Poorly adjusted carburetor ass’y Adjust.
Chain oil is not discharged.
Insufficient amount of chain oil in the
oil tank
Replenish chain oil in the
oil tank.
Clogged chain oil discharge port
Clean.
Clogged oil filler port on the guide bar
Clogged oil filter
Poor adjustment of chain oil discharge
amount
Properly adjust the chain
oil discharge amount.
Faulty oil pump Replace.
Use of high-viscosity chain oil (in cold
weather)
Use genuine or
low-viscosity chain oil
(for winter use).
Engine does not stop.
Disconnection of cord Replace.
Faulty stop switch Replace.
-3-
This section describes repair, focusing on portions requiring frequent repair. See the TROUBLESHOOTING
GUIDE in the previous section as the context for the following descriptions.
1. Precautions on maintenance, inspection and repair
The fuel used readily ignites; therefore, never bring the product near a flame.
Use new gaskets at reassembly.
• Prior to disassembly for repair, remove the fuel and chain oil into separate containers, and allow the tool to
cool down.
• During repair, startup or running, use adequate care for portions posing the risk of burn injury or electric
shock, such as hot areas including the muffler, high voltage cord, and spark plug.
• Before running the tool with the guide bar and saw chain attached, make sure that there are no other
people nearby.
• Ensure proper ventilation when performing repair in a small room or other poorly ventilated space.
• After repair, confirm that the throttle lever returns to the idling state and the engine stops when the stop
switch is turned to the stop position.
2. Inspection criteria for each section and consumable parts
Model
Item
CS 33EDP/CS 33ED
Idling revolutions 2,800 to 3,200 min
-1
No-load maximum revolutions
(with guide bar and saw chain)
12,500 to 13,500 min
-1
Clutch engagement 4,000 to 4,800 min
-1
Accelerating performance Smooth acceleration
Gap between magneto rotor and
ignition coil ass’y
0.2 to 0.4 mm
Spark plug NGK BPMR7A
Gap between spark plug electrodes 0.6 to 0.7 mm
Saw chain type OREGON 91PX
Saw chain pitch x gauge 3/8” (9.53 mm) x 0.05” (1.27 mm)
No. of saw chain drive links 52 or 57
REPAIR GUIDE
-4-
Seized or broken piston ring Replace.
Seized piston or cylinder Replace.
Seized or broken needle bearing of the crank
shaft
Replace.
Seized ball bearing Replace.
Magneto rotor contact with ignition coil Adjust.
Broken recoil starter Inspect/replace.
Faulty starter pawl Inspect/replace.
Clogging of dirt in starter pawl Clean.
Faulty piston ring Clean/replace.
Worn piston ring Replace.
Worn piston Replace.
Worn cylinder Replace.
Remove foreign matter. Disassemble/clean.
Stop switch not at startup position
Set to startup
position.
Dirty or faulty spark plug Clean/inspect.
Improperly connected plug cap Inspect/replace.
Disconnected or improperly connected high
voltage cord and other wiring
Inspect/replace.
Ground connection of high voltage cord and
other wiring
Inspect.
Disconnected or faulty ignition coil
Replace.
Excessive gap between magneto rotor
circumference and ignition coil
Adjust.
No fuel in fuel tank or improper mixing ratio
Add properly mixed
fuel (25:1 to 50:1).
Clogged fuel filter Clean/replace.
Bent fuel pipe Adjust.
Cracked fuel pipe Replace.
Fallen fuel pipe Connect.
Faulty tank vent hole (inner cap) Replace.
Faulty pump diaphragm of carburetor ass’y Replace.
Dirt-clogged carburetor ass’y Clean.
Poorly adjusted carburetor ass’y Adjust.
Pulling the starter handle several times while
the choke lever is at the “startup” position.
Dry the spark plug.
Remove excessive
fuel.
Re
p
air flowchart
Pull the starter handle.
Is pulling possible?
Remove the spark plug to
check for sparks.
Are sparks generated?
No
Is there compression?
Return the spark plug
and plug cap to the
original positions, and
then perform proper
startup operation.
Is the tip of the spark plug
wet with fuel?
Is the spark plug wet due
to excessive supply of
fuel?
No
Yes
No
No
Yes
No
Yes
Yes
No
Yes
Yes
Is the spark plug
contaminated with foreign
matter?
-5-
Dirty or faulty spark plug Clean/replace.
Defective air gap
Adjust.
Worn piston ring
Replace.
Worn piston
Replace.
Worn cylinder
Replace.
Expired oil seal service life
Replace.
Revolutions low for idling
Adjust.
Poorly adjusted carburetor ass’y Adjust.
Defective sealing of the packing Replace.
Revolutions low for idling Adjust.
Poorly adjusted carburetor ass’y Adjust.
Defective sealing of the packing Replace.
Revolutions too high for idling Adjust.
Worn or faulty clutch Inspect/replace.
Poorly adjusted carburetor ass’y Adjust.
Clogged fuel filter
Clean/replace.
Inadequate warm-up, especially in cold
weather
Warm up.
Poorly adjusted carburetor ass’y
Adjust.
Defective sealing of the packing Replace.
Clogged cylinder vent passage, exhaust port
or carbon-clogged muffler
Clean.
Clogged air cleaner
Clean.
Chain brake set on
Release.
Poorly adjusted carburetor ass’y
Adjust.
Faulty carburetor ass’y pump diaphragm
Replace.
Dirt-clogged carburetor ass’y
Clean.
Dirt-clogged high-speed fuel line of the
carburetor ass’y
Clean.
Air intake from the packing section Inspect.
Faulty carburetor ass’y pump diaphragm Replace.
Poorly adjusted carburetor ass’y Adjust.
Revolutions low for idling Adjust.
Poorly adjusted carburetor ass’y Adjust.
Defective sealing of the packing Replace.
Clogged air cleaner Clean.
Poorly adjusted carburetor ass’y Adjust.
Does the engine stop when
the speed rapidly decelerates
from high speed?
Yes
Yes
No
No
Yes
Does the engine stop by
pulling the throttle lever?
No
No
Does the speed increase
by pulling the throttle lever?
Are revolutions fluctuated
during acceleration?
Tilt the tool during idling.
Does the engine stop?
No
Yes
Does the saw chain rotate
during idling?
Yes
No
Yes
Start the tool and set to
idling mode.
Does the engine stop?
Is fuel consumption
excessive?
Yes
No
No
Yes
-6-
Insufficient chain oil in the oil tank Supply oil.
Clogged chain oil discharge port Clean.
Clogged guide bar oil feed port Clean.
Clogged oil filter Clean.
Poorly adjusted chain oil discharge amount Adjust.
Defective oil pump Replace.
Use of high-viscosity chain oil
(in cold weather)
Use genuine or
low-viscosity chain
oil (for winter use).
Is chain oil discharged?
No
-7-
• Spark plug
• Checking for sparks
High voltage cord
Ignited sparks
Spark Plug Ass’y
BPMR7A [73]
Plug cap
Metallic portion of the engine
[Bold] numbers in the description below correspond to item numbers in the Parts List and exploded
assembly diagram for the Model CS 33EDP.
WARNING: Always stop the engine prior to disassembly or when replacing the saw chain.
1. Checking for sparks of the spark plug
CAUTION:
Be careful not to touch the metallic portion of Spark
Plug Ass’y BPMR7A [73] when pulling the starter
handle; otherwise, you run the risk of electric shock.
Wear gloves to prevent electric shock.
Carefully wipe off any fuel around the plug to avoid a
sudden flash of fire.
(1) Remove Spark Plug Ass’y BPMR7A [73] from the Cylinder
[74]. Use a wire brush to clean off carbon deposits on the
electrodes of Spark Plug Ass’y BPMR7A [73], as needed.
Adjust the gap between the electrodes if necessary. Use a
cloth to wipe off any fuel on the electrodes. Remove fuel left
in the Crank Case [96] by following the procedure below.
(a) Remove the Spark Plug Ass’y BPMR7A [73] from the
Cylinder [74].
(b) Open the Choke Lever [153], and then set the Stop
Switch [147] to the stop position.
(c) Open the throttle (by pulling the Throttle Lever [156]).
(d) Pull the starter handle several times.
(2) Insert Spark Plug Ass’y BPMR7A [73] into the Spark Plug
Cap [77], and then place the electrodes in contact with
the metallic portion of the engine. Under these conditions,
set the Stop Switch [147] to the startup position and pull
the starter handle.
(3) When all the above steps are completed normally, the electrodes of Spark Plug Ass’y BPMR7A [73]
should make a snapping sound to generate sparks.
2. Adjustment of the carburetor
(1) Use the Idle Adjust Screw [12] to adjust the carburetor.
• Use this screw to adjust revolutions at idling. Turning the
screw clockwise increases engine revolutions; turning it
counterclockwise decreases engine revolutions.
(2) Standard setting of the carburetor
• 2,800 to 3,200 min
-1
(Confirm that the saw chain does not rotate.)
(3) Fine adjustment
• Idling adjustment
(a) Adjust the idling revolutions after the engine is fully
warmed up.
(Tip on warm-up: Let the engine idle for one minute with the engine in half-throttled status.)
(b) Use the Idle Adjust Screw [12] to set revolutions so that the Saw Chain [132] does not start
rotating while the engine runs stably.
(c) Set idling revolutions to 2,800 to 3,200 min
-1
by using the Idle Adjust Screw [12].
(Adjust to approx. 3,000 min
-1
.)
Inspection and repair procedures
Gap between
electrodes
(0.6 to 0.7 mm)
Remove carbon here.
• Idle adjust screw
Idle Adjust Screw [12]
Revolutions
decrease.
Revolutions
increase.
-8-
• Cleaner and carburetor
1. Disassembly and reassembly of the cleaner and carburetor
[Tools required]
• Phillips screwdriver
• Hex. bar wrench (4 mm)
(1) Disassembly
• Loosen the Cleaner Knob [142] and remove the Cleaner Cover [141].
• Remove the Choke Lever [153].
• Pull out Cleaner Element (A) [5] and Cleaner Element (B) [4].
• Pull out the Fuel Pipes FKM [71] [163] from the Carburetor Ass’y [9], remove the Hex. Socket Hd.
Bolts M5 x 45 [6] by using a hex. bar wrench (4 mm), and then remove the Cleaner Support [8] and
Carburetor Ass’y [9].
• Remove the Fuel Pipe 2.5 x 4 x 90 [168] from the Carburetor Ass’y [9].
(2) Reassembly
Reassembly can be conducted by reversing the disassembly procedure. However, special attention
should be given to the following items.
• Do not bend the Fuel Pipes FKM [71] [163] and Fuel Pipe 2.5 x 4 x 90 [168]. (See “9. Connecting the
fuel pipes” for details.)
• Turn the Choke Lever [153] to “Close” and confirm that the Choke Lever [153] automatically returns to
“Open” and the choke valve of the Carburetor Ass’y [9] opens to the initial position when the Throttle
Lever [156] is operated.
• Confirm that the four Grommets [155] are securely mounted.
Disassembly and reassembly
Cleaner Knob [142]
Cleaner Cover [141]
Cleaner Element (B) [4]
Cleaner Element (A) [5]
Cleaner Support [8]
Hex. Socket Hd. Bolt M5 x 45 [6]
Carburetor Ass’y [9]
Choke Lever [153]
Fuel Pipe 2.5 x 4 x 90 [168]
Fuel Pipe FKM [163]
Fuel Pipe FKM [71]
Grommets [155]
Washer 5 [7]
-9-
2. Disassembly and reassembly of the front handle
[Tools required]
• Phillips screwdriver
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Box-end wrench 10 x 19 mm
• Socket wrench (10 mm)
(1) Disassembly
• Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two Tapping Screws (W/Flange) D5 x 25 (Black) [193]. Use
a flat-blade screwdriver to remove the Flange Nut M6 [165], and then use a box-end wrench 10 x 19
mm to remove the Front Handle [195]. (See the figure “Tightening the Flange Nut M6 [165]” on the
next page.)
• Use a 1
0-mm wide box wrench (socket type) to remove the Antivibration Spring [161].
(2) Reassembly
Reassembly can be conducted by reversing the disassembly procedure. However, special attention
should be given to the following items.
• Reassemble the anti-vibration mechanism of the Front Handle [195] by following the procedure
below.
• Front handle
Front Handle [195]
Flange Nut M6 [165]
Spring Holder [159]
Damper Set Bolt [197]
Bolt Washer M6 [62]
A
ntivibration Spring [161]
S
p
rin
g
Cover
[
196
]
Tapping Screw (W/Flange)
D5 x 25 (Black) [193]
-10-
• Reassembly of the antivibration structure of the coil spring
(a) Insert the Spring Holder [159] so that the first winding of the Antivibration Spring [161] does not
protrude into the first winding of the Spring Holder [159].
(b) Apply 0.1 to 0.3 gram of CHEMITEC’s Chemiseal L-391 to the bolt of the Spring Holder [159] or the
female screw of Flange Nut M6 [165].
(c) As shown in the right photo, secure the
minus groove portion of the bolt of the
Spring Holder [159] by using a flat-blade
screwdriver, and then tighten Flange Nut
M6 [165] by using a box-end wrench 10 x
19 mm so that the Spring Holder [159]
does not co-rotate.
(d) Hold Flange Nut M6 [165] by using a
box-end wrench 10 x 19 mm, and then
tighten the bolt of the Spring Holder [159]
to 4.5±0.5 N•m by using a torque wrench
with a minus bit.
Antivibration Spring [161]
1 mm or less
Antivibration Spring [161] must not protrude
into this face of the Spring Holder [159].
Spring Holder [159]
Front Handle
[
195
]
Flan
g
e Nut M6
[
165
]
Dam
p
er Set Bolt
[
197
]
Bolt Washer M6 [62]
S
p
rin
g
Cover
[
196
]
Tightening the Flange Nut M6 [165]
Flange Nut M6 [165]
Flat-blade screwdriver
Box-end wrench 10 x 19 mm
-11-
• Recoil starter ass’y
3. Disassembly and reassembly of the recoil starter ass’y
[Tool required]
• Phillips screwdriver
(1) Disassembly
• Use a Phillips screwdriver to loosen the four Tapping Screws (W/Flange) D4 x 20 (Black) [36], and
then remove the Recoil Starter Ass’y (NS) [198] and Air Deflector Ass’y [188].
NOTE: During disassembly, the spiral spring may come off and jump out. To prevent injury or
other accidents, wear protective goggles and work gloves.
• Turn the Reel (NS) [191] about one-fourth clockwise by hand and remove the Starter Rope (NS) [186]
from the Reel (NS) [191] with the Starter Rope (NS) [186] loosened.
• Loosen the Set Screw (NS) [189] to remove the Cam Plate (NS) [190], Reel (NS) [191] and Spiral
Spring (NS) [192].
CAUTION: Removing the Reel (NS) [191] without releasing the windings of the Spiral Spring
(NS) [192] may cause the Spiral Spring (NS) [192] to jump out, possibly resulting in
injury.
Fan Case (NS) [187]
Air Deflector Ass’y [188]
Set Screw (NS) [189]
Cam Plate (NS) [190]
Reel (NS) [191]
Spiral Spring
(NS) [192]
Starter Handle Ass’y [183] Starter Knob [185]
Starter Rope (NS) [186]
Rope Stopper [184]
Tapping Screw (W/Flange)
D4 x 20 (Black) [36]
Recoil Starter Ass’y (NS) [198]
• Disassembly of the recoil starter ass’y
Reel
NS
[
191
]
Starter Rope (NS) [186]
Starter Knob [185]
Set Screw (NS) [189]
Cam Plate
(
NS
)
[
190
]
Starter Rope (NS) [186]
-12-
(2) Reassembly
Reassembly can be conducted by reversing the disassembly procedure. However, special attention
should be given to the following items.
• Mount the Spiral Spring (NS) [192] by
matching the end hook of the spring
to the groove of the Fan Case (NS)
[187].
• Apply about 1 g of Shell Albania RL3
to the entire Spiral Spring (NS) [192].
• Apply about 0.5 g of Shell Albania
RL3 to the sliding portions of the
Reel (NS) [191] and Fan Case (NS)
[187].
• Tie the end of the Starter Rope (NS) [186] on the Reel (NS) [191] side by using a single knot, and tie
the end of the rope on the Starter Knob [185] side by using a slide knot.
• Mount the Reel (NS) [191] and Spiral Spring (NS) [192] so that the pawl of the reel interlocks with the
hook at the end of the spring. Turn the Reel (NS) [191] clockwise and confirm that the Reel (NS) [191]
is rewound by spring force.
• Mounting the Spiral Spring (NS) [192]
Matching
Apply about 0.5 gram of
Shell Albania RL3 here.
Apply about 1 gram of Shell
Albania RL3 to the entire
Spiral Spring (NS) [192].
• How to tie the Starter Rope (NS) [186] (Starter handle side)
• How to tie the Starter Rope (NS) [186] (Reel side)
• Mounting the Starter Rope (NS) [186] and Reel (NS) [191]
Pawl
Hook
S
p
iral S
p
rin
g
(
NS
)
[
192
]
Reel
NS
[
191
]
-13-
• Mount the Cam Plate (NS) [190] so that the pawl of the plate interlocks with the hook at the end of
spiral spring (B). Turn the Cam Plate (NS) [190] clockwise while holding the Reel (NS) [191] by hand,
and confirm that the Cam Plate (NS) [190] is rewound by spring force.
• Wind the Starter Rope (NS) [186] five times around the Reel (NS) [191] by following procedure below
and referring to the photos.
(a) Rotate the Reel (NS) [191] counterclockwise and wind the Starter Rope (NS) [186] three times.
(b) Hook the Starter Rope (NS) [186] in the groove of the Reel (NS) [191]. While preventing the rope
from coming off, hold the Starter Rope (NS) [186] by hand and wind the Reel (NS) [191] clockwise
two times. Then release your hand from the Reel (NS) [191] and wind the Starter Rope (NS) [186].
If the Starter Rope (NS) [186] cannot be fully wound, wind it again as per the procedure above.
• Confirm that the Reel (NS) [191] rotates three or four times until the Starter Rope (NS) [186] is fully
pulled. If the Reel (NS) [191] rotates less than three times, replace the Starter Rope (NS) [186]. Also
confirm that the Reel (NS) [191] rotates clockwise a half turn more when the Starter Rope (NS) [186]
is fully pulled. If the reel does not rotate, release the Starter Rope (NS) [186] by one turn from the Reel
(NS) [191].
Avoid getting Cord (A) [83] and the Cord [78] caught by the Air Deflector Ass’y [188].
• Reassembly of the Recoil Starter Ass’y (NS) [198] is made easier by first pulling the starter handle,
and then returning it a little.
• Mounting the spiral spring (B) and Cam Plate (NS) [190]
Hook
Pawl
Spiral spring (B)
Cam Plate (NS) [190] Reel (NS) [191]
• How to wind the Starter Rope (NS) [186]
Groove
Reel (NS) [191]
Reel (NS) [191]
-14-
4. Disassembly and reassembly of the rear handle
[Tools required]
• Phillips screwdriver
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Box-end wrench 10 x 19 mm
(1) Disassembly
• Remove the two Damper Set Bolts [152] and Flange Nut M6 [165] that connect the Rear Handle
[166] and Engine Case Ass’y [51] by using a flat-blade screwdriver and a box-end wrench 10 x 19
mm. (See the figure “Tightening the Flange Nut M6 [165]” on page 10.) Remove the Intake [27] from
the Rear Handle [166], and then remove the Rear Handle [166].
• Remove the Tapping Screws (W/Flange) D4 x 16 (Black) [140] that connect the Rear Handle Grip
[143] and Rear Handle [166].
• Take out the Throttle Rod (ED) [154] and Trigger Lockout [144] in the Rear Handle [166]. Pull out the
Spring Pin 5 x 25 [146], and remove the Throttle Lever [156] and Throttle Lever Spring [145].
• Remove Cord (A) [83] and the Cord [78] from the Stop Switch [147].
• Push the Stop Switch [147] from inside to outside and remove it from the Rear Handle [166].
If the switch proves difficult to remove, push it out while pushing the retaining pin on the upper surface
of the Stop Switch [147].
• Rear handle
Cord [78]
Cord (A) [83]
Rear Handle [166]
Damper (A) [150]
Distance Piece (B) [151]
Damper Set Bolt [152]
Flange Nut M6 [165]
Spring Holder [159]
A
ntivibration Spring [161]
Damper Set Bolt (A) [160]
Rear Handle Grip [143]
Tapping Screw
(W/Flange) D4 x 16
(Black) [140]
Throttle Rod (ED) [154]
Trigger Lockout [144]
Throttle Lever [156]
Throttle Lever Spring [145]
Spring Pin 5 x 25 [146]
Stop Switch [147]
Engine Case Ass’y [51]
Intake [27]
-15-
• Detaching the clutch
(2) Reassembly
Reassembly can be conducted by reversing the disassembly procedure. However, special attention
should be given to the following items.
• When removing Cord (A) [83] and the Cord [78] from the Stop Switch [147], be sure to use new Cord
(A) [83] and Cord [78] because their grip force of the terminals will be decreased.
• Mount the Spring Holder [159] and Antivibration Spring [161] in the same way as described in “2.
Disassembly and reassembly of the front handle.”
NOTE: Prevent Cord (A) [83] and the Cord [78] from getting caught on any other parts.
5. Disassembly and reassembly of the clutch
[Tool required]
• Jig J-372 (clutch detaching tool)
(1) Disassembly
• As shown in the right figure, insert the claws of Jig
J-372 (clutch detaching tool) into the double slit of the
Clutch [30], rotate the tool in the arrow direction,
remove the Clutch [30], and then remove the Clutch
Housing Comp. [31], Needle Bearing (D) [32], Clutch
Washer [33], and Crank Shaft Collar [34].
(2) Reassembly
Reassembly can be conducted by reversing the disassembly procedure. However, special attention
should be given to the following items.
• Insert Needle Bearing (D) [32] into the Crank Worm Ass’y [89], and apply 0.3 to 0.5 gram of Albania
RL3 around the periphery.
• Perform reassembly from the Engine Case Ass’y [51] side in the following order: Crank Shaft Collar
[34], Clutch Washer [33], Needle Bearing (D) [32], Clutch Housing Comp. [31], and Clutch [30].
• Before mounting the Clutch [30], degrease the female screw of the Clutch [30] and the screw of the
Crank Worm Ass’y [89].
• Tighten the Clutch [30] by using our 14.4-V impact driver for about one second to obtain the specified
torque.
NOTE: After reassembly, operate the product to confirm that the Clutch [30] is not loose.
Clutch [30]
Jig J-372 (clutch detaching tool)
• Clutch
Clutch [30]
Clutch Housing Comp. [31]
Needle Bearing (D) [32]
Clutch Washer [33]
Crank Shaft Collar [34]
Engine Case Ass’y [51]
-16-
• Pump gear (1)
6. Disassembly and reassembly of the oil pump
[Tools required]
• Phillips screwdriver
• Flat-blade screwdriver (for precision machinery)
• Long-nose pliers
(1) Disassembly
Disassemble the oil pump after disassembling the Clutch [30].
• Remove the two Tapping Screws (W/Flange)
D4 x 16 (Black) [140], and then remove the Engine
Case Cover [157].
• Remove the two Tapping Screws (W/Flange) D4 x 16 (Black) [1], and then remove the Oil Pump
Cover [35].
• Remove the Pipe Joint [50] and Oil Pipe [49].
• Remove the Oil Pipe [49] from the Engine Case Ass’y [51] by pinching its tip (on the oil discharge
side) with long-nose pliers.
• Remove the Tapping Screw (W/Flange) D4 x 20 (Black) [36] that secures the Pump Ass’y [47], pull
out the Air Vent Sponge [48], and then remove the Pump Ass’y [47].
• For the Pump Ass’y [47], remove the two Needle Rollers 2.5 x 19.8 [37] and then remove the Pump
Gear (ED) [44] and Pump Gear Spring (ED) [45] in the Pump Case [46].
• Insert a flat-blade screwdriver (for precision machinery) to remove Air Vent Valve (B) [172].
(2) Reassembly
Reassembly can be conducted by reversing the disassembly procedure. However, special attention
should be given to the following items.
• If the Oil Pipe [49] or Air Vent Valve (B) [172] becomes worn or has flaws, replace it with a new one.
• If the Pump Gear (ED) [44] becomes worn, replace it with a new one.
• Remove any dust inside the Pump Case [46] or Pump Gear (ED) [44].
• Remove any dust inside the Oil Pump Cover [35].
• Apply 0.5 to 1.0 gram of Shell Albania RL3 to the Pump Gear (ED) [44], and then insert the gear into
the Pump Case [46].
• Engage the Pump Ass’y [47] with the worm on the crank shaft.
• Insert the Pump Gear Spring (ED) [45], Pump Gear (ED) [44],
and Adjuster Cap [42] into the Pump Case [46], and then insert
the two Needle Rollers 2.5 x 19.8 [37] while slightly pushing the
Pump Gear (ED) [44].
• Before assembling the Oil Pipe [49], confirm that there is no
dust on the insertion location of the Pump Case [46], and apply
0.2 to 0.4 gram of chain oil inside the Oil Pipe [49]. Then mount
the Oil Pipe [49] so that its holes match those of the Pump Case
[46].
• Note that you must not lose the Air Vent Sponge [48] and Air Vent Valve (B) [172].
Application range of
Shell Albania RL3
(0.5 to 1.0 gram)
Pump Gear (ED) [44]
Do not apply grease
to this range
.
8.8
+5
0
• Pump gear (2)
B
A
A
B
A - A
B - B
Sealing grease (0.2 g)
Pump Gear Spring (ED) [45]
Pump Case [46]
Needle Roller 2.5 x 19.8 [37]
Adjuster Cap [42]
Pump Gear (ED) [44]
Needle Roller 2.5 x 19.8 [37]
5.8
+4
0
0.2
-0.4
0
0.2
-0.4
0
-17-
Air vent valve
Engine Case Ass’y [51]
Air Vent Valve (B) [172]
Air Vent Valve (B) [172]
B
B
B-B
A
• Oil pump
Tapping Screw
(W/Flange) D4 x 16
(Black) [1]
Oil Pump Cover [35]
Air Vent Sponge [48]
Air Vent Valve (B) [172]
Oil Pipe [49]
Pipe Joint [50]
Tapping Screw
(W/Flange) D4 x 20
(Black) [36]
Needle Roller
2.5 x 19.8 [37]
Pump Case [46]
Pump Gear Spring (ED) [45]
Pump Gear (ED) [44]
Needle Roller [43]
Adjuster Cap [42]
Bolt Washer M4 (Black) [41]
Adjuster Spring [40]
Oil Pump Adjuster (ED) [39]
Pump Ass’y [47]
Engine Case Ass’y [51]
A
Tapping Screw (W/Flange)
D4 x 16 (Black) [140]
Engine Case Cover [157]
-18-
• Muffler
7. Disassembly and reassembly of the muffler
[Tools required]
• Phillips screwdriver
• Hex. bar wrench (5 mm)
(1) Disassembly
• Remove the two Tapping Screws (W/Flange) D4 x 16 (Black) [1] that secure the Muffler Cover [2].
• Remove the two Hex. Socket Hd. Bolts M6 x 55 [61] that secure the Muffler [59], and then remove
Bolt Washer M6 [62] and the Muffler Packing [60].
• Remove the three Screws (W/Washers) M4 (Black) [52] and detach the Muffler Gauze [58], Gauze
Fixing Plate [57], Muffler Special Packing [56], Exhaust Pipe [55], Muffler Special Packing (S) [54],
and Packing Plate [53].
(2) Reassembly
Reassembly can be conducted by reversing the disassembly procedure. However, special attention
should be given to the following items.
• Do not reuse the Hex. Socket Hd. Bolt M6 x 55 [61].
• To maintain sealing performance, replace the Muffler Packing [60] with a new one.
• If the Muffler Special Packing [56] or Muffler Special Packing (S) [54] has any breakage or cracks,
replace it with a new one.
• Perform reassembly from the muffler side in the following order: Muffler Gauze [58], Gauze Fixing
Plate [57], Muffler Special Packing [56], Exhaust Pipe [55], Muffler Special Packing (S) [54], and
Packing Plate [53].
• Attention must be paid to the mounting direction of the Gauze Fixing Plate [57]. (The rectangular
shape of the Exhaust Pipe [55] shall match that of the plate.)
• Before attaching the Muffler [59], degrease the screw holes of the Cylinder [74].
• Tighten the Muffler [59] with the Hex. Socket Hd. Bolt M6 x 55 [61] to 5.5 to 9.0 N•m, and after
checking the operation, retighten it by 10 to 12 N•m.
Muffler Packing [60]
Muffler [59]
Muffler Gauze [58]
Gauze Fixing Plate [57]
Bolt Washer M6 [62]
Hex. Socket Hd. Bolt M6 x 55 [61]
Muffler Special Packing [56]
Exhaust Pipe [55]
Muffler Special Packing (S) [54]
Packing Plate [53]
Screw (W/Washers) M4 (Black) [52]
Muffler Cover [2]
Tapping Screw (W/Flange) D4 x 16 (Black) [1]
Engine Case Ass’y [51]
-19-
8. Wiring diagram
(1) See pages 20 and 23 for wiring of Cord (A) [83] and the Cord [78].
• Connect the terminal of the Ignition Coil [82] with the silver side of Cord (A) [83].
• Connect the round terminal side of the Cord [78] with the Ignition Coil [82] by using the Hex. Socket Hd.
Bolt (W/Flange) M4 x 18 [79].
• Pass Cord (A) [83] and the Cord [78] through the hole on the Engine Case Ass’y [51].
• Insert Cord (A) [83] and the Cord [78] into Cord Insulation Tube L60 [76], and then store Cord
Insulation Tube L60 [76] in the hole on the Engine Case Ass’y [51].
• Pass Cord (A) [83] and the Cord [78] through the hole on the Rear Handle [166] in which the Stop
Switch [147] is stored, and then connect both with the terminals of the Stop Switch [147].
• Insert the Stop Switch [147] into the Rear Handle [166].
(2) See pages 20 and 22 for wiring of the high tension cord.
• Pass the high tension cord of the Ignition Coil [82] through the Engine Case Ass’y [51].
• Apply a small quantity of oil onto the tip of the high tension cord, and then insert it into the Spark Plug
Cap [77].
• Mount Metal Fitting of Plug Cap (A) [80] so that it penetrates the core wire of the high tension cord.
• Pull the high tension cord and store Metal Fitting of Plug Cap (A) [80] in the Spark Plug Cap [77].
9. Connecting the fuel pipes
Make the connections as illustrated on pages 20 and 21.
• Fully insert the pipes down to their roots.
• Do not bend or twist the pipes.
• Be careful not to get pipes caught by other parts.
• The end faces of the Fuel Pipe (FKM) [163] and Fuel Pipe L220 [164] should protrude from the edge of
the Fuel Grommet [162] by 152 to 162 mm and 191 to 201 mm, respectively.
CAUTION: Never mix up fuel pipes inserted into the Priming Pump Comp. [169].
/