JANOME 38514052200 Owner's manual

SEWING MACHINE

Owner's Manual

MAQUINA DE COSER

Manual de instrucciones

MACHINE .&.COUDRE

Manuel d'instructions

Model, Modelo, ModUle 385.4052LX200

Sears, Roebuck and Co., Hoffman Estates, IL 60179 U.&A°

www, sears,corn

502-800-102 Sears Canada Inc.,Toronto, OnL, M5B 2B8 CANADA www.searsca

iMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTPONS

CAUTION

Your sewing machine is designed and constructed only for HOUSEHOLD use

Before using this sewing machine, read this manual and follow all Safety Rules and Operating Instructions

DANG ER- Toreducetheriskofelectricshock:

1 This sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in Always unptug this sewing machine from the

electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

2. Always unplug before replacing a sewing machine butb Replace bulb with same type rated !5 Watts

3 Do not reach for a sewing machine that has fallen into water Unpiug immediately

4, Do not place or store this sewing machine where it can fall or be pulled into a tub or sink Do not place or drop it intowater

or other liquid,

WARNING- To,educetheriskofburns,fire,e,ectricshock,orinjurytopersons:

1, Do not allow this sewing machine to be used as a toy Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is used by

or near children

2 Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this owner's manual

Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this owner's manual,

3 Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped

or damaged, or dropped into water

Return this sewing machine to the nearest Sears store or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical

adjustment,

4. Never operate this sewing machine with any air opening blocked, Keep ventilation openings of this sewing machine and

foot controller free from accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth

5 Never drop or insert any object into any opening

6 Do not use outdoors..

7, Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered

8 To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (" O") position, then remove plug from outlet

9 Do not unplug by pulling on cord To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord,

t0 Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle

11 Always use the proper needle plate.. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break

12,,Do not use bent needles

I3 Do not pull or push fabric while stitching.. It may deflect the needle causing it to break,,

14 Switch this sewing machine off ("O") when making any adjustment in the needIe area, such as threading the needle,

changing the needle, threading the bobbin or changing the presser foot, and the tike

!5, Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any

other adjustments mentioned in this owner's manual

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

When using your sewing machine for the first few times, place a waste fabric under the presser foot and run /

the machine without thread for a few minutes Wipe away any oil which may appear

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WARRANTY

FULL 25 YEAR WARRANTY ON DEFECT IN MATERIAL OR WORKMANSHIP

For 25 years from the date of purchase, .Sears will, free o! charge, repair defects in materia] or workmanship which

appear in the internal mechanical part of the sewing machine

FULLTWOYEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF SEWING MACHINE

For two years from the date of pu[chase Sears will, free 9f charge_ repair defects in material or workmanship

which appear in the eiectdcal ann e!ectronic equipment ot the sewing machine, including motor, wiring, electronic

components, swilcn ane speeo con[tel

FULL 90-DAY WARRANTY ON ALL PARTS AND MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS

For 90 days from the date of purchase, Sears wii!, free of charge, replace any parts and provide mechanical

service necessary For proper operation of the sewing macnine except for normal maintenance, Warranty service

is avaiiabie ey returning the sewing macn ne to the nearest Sears _ervice L;enter in the United States

IFTHlS MACHINE IS USED FOR COMMERCIAL OR RENTAL PURPOSES,THE ABOVE WARRANTY

COVERAGES APPLY FOR ONLY 90 DAYS FROMTHE DATE OF PURCHASE

This warranty gives you specific lega_ rights, and you may also have other rights which vary from state to state

......................... Sears, Roebuck and Co.,: D/817 WA.: Hoffman,Estates,, IL 60.17.9 .........................

GARANTIA

GARANTtA COMPLETA PeR 26 ANOS EN LA CABEZA DE LA MAQUINA DE COSER

Durante 25 aries desde la {echade la compra. Sears ofrece, libre de costo, reparar !os defectos en material o de manufacture

que puedan presentarse en {escomponemes mec&nicos oe la caoeza ca la mfiquina ae coser

GARANT1A COMPLETA PeR 2 AttICS EN EOUIPO ELECTRICO DE LA MAQUINA DE COSER

Durante 2 a_os desde la fecha de ta compra Sears ofrece_ libre de costo, repara[ }os defeclos, en material o de rnanufactura

quepueoan presemarse en.e_equip? e]ecLncooe ia maquma oe coser, inclayenoo componentes e|ectncos, motor, conexlones

eleclricas, interrup{or y controJoe veloc_oaa

GARANTIA COMPLETA PeR 90 DIAS SOBRE TODAS LAS PARTES Y AJUSTES MECANlCOS

Durante 90 d{asdesde la !echa de Ia compra Sears pfrece fibre de costo reemplazar cualquiera parte y proveer el servicio,

mecanico necesario pare la apropiaaa operaci6n oe ta m_,quina ae.coser,,excep[o pare mante_mlento normal El se_icio oe

o.,aranliase p,ueaeolStener envianao _amaquina oe coser at centro/oepartamento ee _ervicios _ears mas cercano en lOS

_:staaos umoos

SI ESTA MAQUINA DE.COSER SE UTILIZA PARA PROPOSITOS COMERCIALES O DE ALQUILER, LA COEIERTURA DE

GARANTIA ClTADA MAS ARRIBA ES VALIDA UNICAMENTE DURANTE 90 DIAS A PARTIR DE LA FECHA DE COMPRA

Esta qaranti& tedaa usted derechos legales especificos, pero usted puede f.enertambien o_rosderechos Ios cuales vat{an de

estad-oa estado

Sears, Roebuck and Coo,D1817WA, Hoffman Estates, 1L60179

GARANTIE

GARANTIE TOTALE DE 25 ANS SUR LE MI_CANISME DE LA MACHINE

Pendant 25 arts.& partir de la date d'achat, .Searsr_parera gratuitement tout d_,fautde mat_riau ou de tabrication qui

appara'itra cans e mecanisme de votre macnine

GARANTIE TOTALE DE DEUX ANS SUR L'C:QUIPEMENT ELECTRtQUE

Pendant deux aqs, & partir de ia date d'achat. Sears reparere gratu!tement tout d6faut de ma!eriau ou de tabrication qui

appara[tra aans le moteur le c_b[age, }'interrupteur ou la commence oe vitesse oe marcne, aans les circuits elec[riques ou

_ectron ques

GARANTIETOTALE DE 90 JOURS SUR TOUTES LES PIECES ET LA MISE AU POINT Dr] MI_CANISME

Pendant 90,iours0&part{r de la date d'achat, Sears effectuera grat,uite,menttout ,remplaceme.nt de,piece et reglage n_cessaires

au Bentonc[ionnement de Hamacnine Centretien oroinaire 6[ant _ la cnarge oe i'uti=ismeur__our b_6ne_ic{eroes avantages

.qu'of_reta garantie ci-dessus, adressez-vous a votre magasin naDitue_ou au service apres-vente bears, partout aux Etats-

unis

SI CETT.EMACHINE A COUDRE SERT _,DES FINS COMMERCIALES OU DE LOCATION, LA GARANTtE CI-DESSUS SE

LIMtTE A 90 JOURS A COMPTER DE LA DATE D'ACHAT.

Cette garantie vous donne des droits legaux precis,et eventueHement d'autres droits, ceux-ci pouvant verier d'une 6tat & une

autre

Sears, .Roebuck and Co,, D,s817WA, Hpffman Estates tL 69179"

IV

WARRANTY

FULL 25YEAR WARRANTY ON DEFECT IN MATERIAL OR WORKMANSHIP

For 25 years from the date of purchase, Sears will free of charge repair defects inmateriat or workmanship which

appear in the internal mechanical part of the sewing machine.

FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF SEWING MACHINE

For two years from the date of purchase, Sears witl, free of charge_ repair defects in material or workmanship

which appear in the electrical and electronic equipment of the sewing mach ne, nc ud ng motor, wiring, electronic

components, switch and speed controt

FULL 90-DAY WARRANTY ON ALL PARTS AND MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS

For 90 days from the date of purchase, Sears w , free of charge, replace any parts and provide mechanical

service necessa_ for proper operation of the sewing machine except for normal maintenance. Warranty serv ce

is available by returning the sewing machine to the nearest Sears Serv ce Center in Canada

IF THtS MACHINE IS USED FOR COMMERCIAL OR RENTAL PURPOSES,THE ABOVE WARRANTY

COVERAGES APPLY FOR ONLY 90 DAYS FROM THE DATE OF PURCHASE

This warrant,/gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights which vary from province to province

SEARS CANADA.,TORONTO, ONT., MSB 2B8

:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::,.:::::::;::::::::::::

GARANTIA

GARANTIA COMPLETA POR 25 AF_IOSEN LA CABEZA DE LA MAQUINA DE COSER

Durante 25 a_,osdesde ta fecha de la compra. Sears ofrece fibre de costo, reparar {osdefectos en material o de manufactura

que puedan presentarse en los componentes macon cos de a cabeza de }a maquina de coser

GARANT|A COMPLETA POR 2 ANOS EN EQUIPO ELECTRICO DE LA MAQUINA DE COSER

Durante 2 aSos desde la fecha de ta compra, Sears ofrece_ Itbre de costo, reparar los defectos en material o de manufactura

qua puedan presentarse en el equipo electrico de la m&quma da coser, incluyendo componentes e[_ctricos, motor, conex{ones

el_cfricas, interruptery centre{ de velocidad

GARANTIA COMPLETA POR 98 DIAS SOBRE TODAS LAS PARTES Y AJUSTES MECAN[COS

Durante 90 d{as desde ]a fecha de la cempra, Sears ofrece, lfbre de costo, reemplazar cualquiera parte y proveer el servicio

mec_nico necesado para ta aproptada operac 6n de ta m&quina de coser, exceplo para mantenimtento normal. Et servicio de

garantla se puede oiStenerenviando la m_quina de coser al centro/departamento de Serv}cies Sears mas cercano en Canna&

SI ESTA MAQUINA DE COSER SE UTILIZA PARA PROPOSITOS COMERClALES O DE ALQUtLER, LA COBERTURA DE

GARANTIA CITADA MAS ARRIBA ES VALIDA UNICAMENTE DURANTE 90 DIAS A PARTIR DE LA FECHA DE COMPRA

Esta garantia le daa usted derechos fegales espec{ficos, pete usted puede tener tambi_n otros derechos los cuales varian de

provincia a prov{ncia

SEARS CANADAo, TORONTO, ONT_, M5B 2B8

GARANT|E

GARANTIETOTALE DE 25 ANS SUR LE MI_CANISME DE LA MACHINE

Pendant 25 ans, & partir de la date d'achat, Sears r_parera gratuitement tout d_faut de mat_riau ou de fabricationqui

appara_traclans e m_canisme ae votre macnine

GARANTIE TOTALE DE DEUX ANS SUR UI_QUtPEMENT ELECTRIQUE

Pendant deux ans,& partir de ladate d'achat, Sears r_parera gra{uitement tout d_laut de mater au ou de fabr cation qui

apparaTtra darts lemoteur. _ec&blage, l'interrupteur oula commande de v tesse de marche, darts {escircuits eIectdques ou

_lectroniques

GARANTIE TOTALE DE 90 JOURS SUR TOUTES LES PIIECES ET LA MISE AU POINT DU MECAN|SME

Pendant 90iours, a partir de la date d'achat Sears effectuera gratuitement tout remp_acement de piece et r_glage nCcessaires

au ben fonctionnement de la machine; l'entr_tien ord na re _tant & la charge de rut}lisateur. Pour _eneficier des&vantages

qu'offre la garantie ci-dessus, adressez-vous a votre magas{n hal3itue}ou au service apr_swente Sears, partout aux Canada

SI CETT_EMACHINE A COUDRE SERT A DES FINS COMMERCIALES OU DE LOCATION, LA GARANTIE CI-DESSUS SE

LIMITE A 91)JOURS A COMPTER DE LA DATE D'ACHAT..

Carte garantie vous donne des droits legaux precis, et _.ventueIlement d autres droits, ceux-ci pouvant varier d'une province &

une autre

SEARS CANADAo,TORONTO, ONT., M5B 2B8

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SECTION1.ESSENTIALPARTS..............................2

NamesofParts............................................................2

ExtensionTable(AccessoryStorageBox)...............4

FootStorageCompartment......................................4

AvailableAccessoriesandAttachments....................6

SECTIONII,GETTINGREADYTOSEW........................8

ConnectingtheMachinetothePowerSupply...............8

ControllingSewingSpeed............................................8

Polarizedplug.......................................................8

ReplacingtheLightBulb............................................8

ReverseStitchButton...........................................10

DroppingtheFeedDogs....................................10

ToSnapOnandSnapOffthePresserFoot...............I0

ToDetachandAttachtheFootHolder.......................10

PresserFootLifter...............................................t2

PressureAdjustingDial.................................................I2

BalancingNeedleThreadTension.........................I2

ChangingtheNeedle.........................................t4

<Tochecktheneedle>........................................14

SelectingNeedleandFabric................................16

WindingtheBobbin...........................................20

, Removingthebobbin.............................................20

Horizontalspoolpin................................... 20

BobbinWinding..................................................20

Additionalspoolpin........................................20

InsertingtheBobbin.................................... 22

ThreadingtheMachine......................................24

Threadingthemachine..............................................24

AutomaticNeedleThreader................................26

DrawingUptheBobbinThread...................................26

PatternSelectorDial................................................28

StitchWidthDial.................................................28

StitchLengthDial...........................................28

VariableNeedlePosition..........................................28

SECTIONttf BASICSEWING....................................30

StraightStitchSewing............................................30

Startsewing......................................................30

Changingsewingdirections....................................30

Endofsewingandcuttingthreads.................................30

Needleplateguideline............................................30

SECTIONIVUTILITYSTITCHING.........................32

StraightStretchStitch..........................................32

SewingonButtons..........................................32

ZigzagStitching....................................................34

TricotStitch...............................................34

OvercastingStitch.............................................34

AutomaticButtonhole.............................................36

[Adjustingbuttonholestitchdensity]........................38

CordedButtonholes.......................................40

ZipperApplication................................................42

[Fabricpreparation:]..........................................42

[Tosew]......................................................44

BlindHemStitch..........................................46

SECTIONV DECORATIVESTITCHING..................48

Quilting.............................................................48

Applique.....................................................................48

ShellTuck.............................................................50

Patchwork............................................ 50

Fogoting....................................................................50

Smocking................................................................52

Straightstitch..........................................................52

Decorativestitch.................................................................52

DecorativeSatinStitchPatterns...............................52

StretchStitchPatterns.............................................54

CorrectingDistortedStitchPatterns.............................54

TwinNeedleSewing.......................................................56

[AdditionalSpoolPin].....................................................56

UsingEvenFoot.............................................................58

Quiltingbarfortheevenfoot...................................58

SECTIONVl.CAREOFYOURMACHINE...............60

CleaningtheHookRaceandFeedDog....................60

Cleaningthebobbinholder...........................................60

Assemblethebobbinholderandneedleplate.............60

TroubleShooting............................................62

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SECTION i. ESSENTIAL PARTS

Names of Parts

(_ Patternindicatingwindow

(_ Stitch length dial

Q Stitch width dial

Q Spool holder (Large)

O Spoot pin

(_ Thread tension dial

O Bobbin winder thread guide

(_ Thread take-up lever

(_ Pressure adjusting dial

O Face plate

@ Thread cutter

@ Needle threader

@ Needle plate

@ Hook cover

@ Extension table (Accessory box)

Hook cover plate release button

@ Reverse stitch button

@ Drop feed lever

@ Carrying handle

Bobbin winder spindle

@ Bobbin winder stopper

@ Handwheet

_ Pattern selector dial

-@ Feed balancing dial

Power switch

--_ Machine socket

@ Free arm

Bu_onhote lever

Presser foot lifter

Additional spool pin hole

NOTE:

The specifications are subject to change without prior

notice

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Extension Table (Accessory Storage Box)

[] Detaching and attaching the table

Pull the table away from the machine, as illustrated

10 Extension table

Push the extension table until it snaps into the machine.

0 Tab

Q Hole

[] For free arm sewing

it can be used for: - stitching sleeves, waistbands,

pants legs or any tubular

garment area

- darning socks or mending

knees, elbows or children's

wear

Foot Storage Compartment

Pull out the extension table to the left and open the lid,

The sewing accessories are conveniently located in the

box.

(_ Extension table

(_ Lid

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Available Accessories and Attachments

To order parts and accessories listed below, call:

1-800-366-PART (1-800-366-7278) (USA only)

6 am-11 pm, CST, 7 days a week

1-800-4-MY-HOME (1-800-469-4663) (CANADA only)

24 hours a day, 7 days a week

When ordering parts and accessories, provide the

following information:

1 Part Number

2, Part Name

3, Model Number of Machine

Ref. No, Part No, I Description ..................

10226100013 x Bobbin

I

t024031091 Spool pin felt

639804000 iNeedle set (HA-14 x 3}

"993001100 i5 x No 1t stretch fabric needle (BLUE)

"993011100 5 x No 11 needle (ORANGE)

"99301t400 5 × No 14 needle (RED)

*993011600 5 x No 16 needle (PURPLE)

"99301 !800 5 x No t 8 needle (GREEN)

826815000 Twin needle

625031500 Additional spool pin

"82380tO15 H:Straight Stitch foot

685502019 A:7-.tgzagfoot

822804118 F:Setin sfilch foot

829801002 E:Z_pper foot

753801004 R:Automatic buttonhole foot

! "820801016 B:Buttonhole foot

I *822801001 C:Overedge foot

• 820817015 G:8llnd hem foot

i 214508002 Walking foot

i "200030108 1t4" Seam foot

' "260262101 Needle threader

802422002 Quilter

000009803 Light buIb

647806009 Seam ripper./Buttonholeopener

653802002 Screwdriver

I "741614003 Oil

802424004 Lint brush

822020503 Large spool holder

i 822019509 Small spool holder

*200002008 Piping foot

• *200003009 Gathering foot

*200005001 Pinquck foot

*2000!_3105 Hemmer foot (2ram)

'941623000 Ruffler

031t ! 91 t5 Foot control

I 214015007 Quilter bar (for walking foot)

t 829803004 Spool stand

• 484701000 Carring case (hard cover)

These items are not furnished with lhe machine, but may be

ordered per instructionsabove

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1 2

8

@8

6 *7

%

3

8 9 1o

"12 "t3 14

15 "t6

20 21

24 25

0

"17 18 19

"22 23

*30 31"28 *29

32 33

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SECTION I!, GETTING READY TO SEW

Connecting the Machine to the Power Supply

1 Turn off the power switch,

2 Insert the machine plug into the machine socket

3, Insert the power supply plug into the outlet

4 Turn the power switch "ON"

(_ Power switch

Q Machine plug

(_) Machine socket

Q Power supply plug

O Outlet

Controlling Sewing Speed

Sewing speed is varied by the foot control.

The harder you press on the foot control, the faster the

machine runs,

Polarized plug

This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider

than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this

plug is intended to fit in a polarizedoutlet only one way,

If the plug does not fit inthe outlet, reverse the plug,. If it

still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install

the proper outlet Do not modify the plug in any way,

Foot Controller Model YC-482J-1 or TJC-150 is used

with Sewing Machine Model 38&4052LXxxx

(xxx represents numbers 000 through 999).

Replacing the Light Bulb

Unplug the machine.

Do not dismantle the machine other than as

explained in this section,

Warning;

As the light bulb could be HOT, protect your fingers

when you handle it

1, Remove the set screw,.

2 Remove the face plate,

3, Push the bulb up and turn it counterclockwise to

remove.

(!) Setscrew

O Face plate

(_ Light bulb

4. Push up the light bulb and turn it to clockwise

5. Attach the face plate.

6, Tighten the screw

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Reverse Stitch Button

While the reverse stitch button ispressed, the machine

sews backwards.

0 Reverse stitch button

Dropping the Feed Dogs

For dropping the feed dogs, push the leverto the right as

illustrated,

, After sewing, push the lever to the left side for up

position.

The feed dogs automatically return to the up position

when the machine starts running,

C) Drop feed lever

O Down position

(&) Up position

To Snap On and Snap Off the Presser Foot

Turn the handwheet toward you to raise the needle to its

highest position.

Raise the presser foot,

Press the lever on the back of the foot holder,

The presser foot wilt drop off,

• When pressing the lever, the lever should be

pushed in the direction of the arrow,

Do not press it from the top,

Place the presser foot so the pin on the foot lies just

under the groove of the foot holder

Lower the foot holder to lock the foot in place,

(_ Lever

(_ Pin

(_ Groove

• When changir_g the presser foot, turn off the

power switch,

To Detach and Attach the Foot Holder

Raise the presser foot and loosen the setscrew by

turning it counterclockwise,.

Align the hole in the foot holder with the threaded hole in

the presser foot bar and fit the setscrew into the hole_

T_ghtenthe setscrew by turning it clockwise,.

O Setscrew

Q Footholder

(_) Hole

Q Threaded hole

d

W

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Presser Foot Lifter

The presser foot lifter raises and lowers the presser fool

You can raise it about 0,6 cm (t/4") higher than the

normal up position for easy removal of the presser foot,

or to help you to place heavy fabric under the foot.

(_ Lowered position

O Normal up position

(_ Highest position

Pressure Adjusting Dial

The pressure adjusting dial should be set at "3"

for regular sewing.

Reduce the pressure to "2" for the applique,

cutwork, drawn work and basting

Set the pressure at "I" when sewing the chiffon,

lace, organdy and other fine fabrics..

Velour and knits with a lot of stretch may also

require the pressure at "1"

(_ Setting mark

Balancing Needle Thread Tension

Correct tension

The thread tension is adjusted depending on the sewing

materials, layers of fabric and sewing

method..

,_ The ideal straight stitch has threads locked

between two layers of fabric, as illustrated

(magnifies to show detail).

,=, For an ideal zigzag stitch, the bobbin thread

does not show on the right side (top side) of the

fabric, and the needle thread shows slightly on

the wrong side (bottom side) of the fabric

[] Needle thread tension is too tight

The bobbin thread (bottom thread) will appear

on the right side (topside) of the fabric ........

Loosen the needle thread tension by moving the

dial to a lower number.

[] Needle thread tension is too loose

The needle thread (top thread) will appear on

the wrong side (bottom side) of the fabric ......

Tighten the needle thread tension by moving the

dia! to a higher number,

(_ Needle thread (Top thread)

O Bobbin thread (Bottom thread)

(_ Right side (Top side) of fabric

40 Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric

(_ Setting mark

_) Thread tension dial

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Changingthe Needle

Turn off the power switch and turn the handwheel

toward you to raise the needle at its highest position,

and lower the presser foot

[] Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it

counterclockwise. Remove the needle from the

needle clamp,

Needle clamp

[] Insert a new needle into the needle clamp with

the flat side to the rear When inserting the

needle into the needle clamp, push it as far as it

goes Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly by

turning it clockwise,.

0 Pin

(_) Flat side

To see if the needle is good, place the flat side of the

needle onto something flat (needle plate, glass etc)o

The clearance between the needle and the flat surface

should be consistent. Never use a bent or blunt needler

A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs

in knits, fine silks and silk-fike fabrics.

(_ Clearance

[] []

_ [#JJ/_JY Y 7 7_

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Selecting Needle and Fabric

For general sewing, use needle sizes 1t or 14, A fine thread and needle should be

used for sewing lightweight fabrics, so the fabric will not be marred. Heavy fabrics

require a needle large enough to pierce the fabric without fraying the needle thread

in the needle set, there is one each of sizes t 1, 14, 16, and I8, and a blue needle,

Use the blue needle to eliminate skipped stilches when sewing knits and synthetic

fabrics.,

Special needles should be used on certain fabrics A denim needle with a sharp tip

effectively pierces dense fabrics such as denim and canva& For topstitching, a

special topstitching needle with a larger eye, accommodates heavier weight thread

Leather needles punch small holes in leather and suede, allowing the thread to

follow through the hole

Check your needles frequently for rough or blunt tips, Snags and runs in knits, fine

silks and silk-like fabrics are permanent, and are often caused by damaged

needles

Always purchase a good quality thread It should be strong, smooth and consistent

in thickness

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WEIGHT FABRIC TYPE OF NEEDLE NEEDLE SIZE "_

Chiffon, Georgette, Fine Lace, Organdy, Organdy Universal 9 (65)

Very Light Net, Tulle Ball Point 9 (65)

Batiste, Voile, Lawn, Pure Silk, Crepe de Chine,

Sheer Crepe, Chambray, Handkerchief Linen,

Gingham, Challis, Percale, Wool Crepe, Peau de Sole,

Taffeta, Satin, Silk Surah, Satin-backed Crepe,

Qiana

Orange

Blue

1t (75)

12 (80)

Light

Blue 1t (75)

Single Knits, ,Jersey, Swimwear, Tricot Ball Point 11 (75)

Leather, Suede Wedge Point Leather I 1t (75)

Flannel, Velour, Velvet, Muslin, Velveteen, Poplin,

Corduroy, Broadcloth, Linen, Chintz, Gabardine, Felt, Red 14 (90)

Terry, Burlap, Quilted Fabrics

Medium Double Knits, (synthetic and natural) Stretch

Velour,

Stretch Terry, Ball Point t4 (90)

Sweater Knits

Leather, Vinyl, Suede Wedge Point Leather 14 (90)

Denim, Sailcloth, Ticking Denim 16 (100)

Double Faced Wool, Heavy Coating, Fake Fur, Purple 16 (t00)

Heavy Drapery Fabrics

Leather, Suede

Canvas, Duck, Upholstery Fabrics

All

I Wedge Poinl Leather

i Green

I Topstitching

Topstitching for Special Finish

16(100)

18(11o)

1t (75)

14 (90)

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Winding the Bobbin

Removing the bobbin

Gently slide the hook cover plate release button to the

right, and remove the cover plats.

Lift the bobbin

O Hook cover plate release button

Horizontal spool pin

Lift up the spool pin, Place the spool of thread on the

spool pin with the thread coming off the spool as shown,

[]Ordinary spool

O Spool hoider (Large)

[] Small spool

(_) Spool holder (Small)

• Use the small spool holder for narrow or small

spools,

Note: If the thread tends to tangle around the spool pin,

place the spool stand on the spool pin,

(_)Spool stand

Bobbin Winding

[Guide the thread around the bobbin winder

thread guide.

[]Insert the thread through the hole on the bobbin,

threading from the inside to the outside, Put the

bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle

[]Push the bobbin winder spindle to the righL

With the free end of the thread held in your

hand, depress the foot control,,

Stop the machine when it has made a few turns,

and cut the thread close to the hole on the

bobbin,

Bobbin winder stopper

4mDepress the foot control again When the bobbin

is fully wound, it will stop automatically. Return

the bobbin winder to its original position by

moving the spindle to the left, and cut the thread

as shown.

•. The machine will not sew until the spindle has

been returned to the left position..

Additional spool pin

Insert the additional spool pin into the spool stand and

hole,

Place a felt on the spool pin and place a spool of thread

on it as shown,

(_) Additional spool pin

($) Spool stand

(_) Felt

(_) Hole

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[]

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[]

20

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Inserting the Bobbin

[] Remove the hook cover and place the bobbin in

the bobbin holder with the thread running

counter-clockwise,,

[] Guide the thread into the notch A on the front

side of the bobbin holder+

Draw the thread to the left sliding it between the

tension spring blades

(_) Notch A

[] Continue to draw the thread lightly until it slips

into notch B,

(_) Notch B

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[]

A

F

[]

B

m Pull out about 10 cm (4] of thread and attach

the hook cover plate.

(_ Thread diagram

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Threading the Machine

Threadingthemachine

[]

Raise the presser foot lifter.

Raise the thread take-up leverto its highest

position by turning the handwheel

counterclockwise

reDraw the end of the thread with your left hand

and hold the spool with your right hand as

shown and place it around the upper thread

guide.

(_ Thread guide

f

m

[_]While holding the thread near the spool, draw

the end of the thread down around the thread

guide plate.

(_) Thread guide plate

[]Firmly draw up the thread up from right to left

over the take-up lever, and down into the thread

take-up eye,,

(_ Thread take-up lever

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f.

[]

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[]

J

[] Slide the thread behind the needle bar thread

guide on the left

Needle bar thread guide

[_Thread the needle from front to back, or use a

needle threader

(See page 26 for built-in needle threader model)

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s

24

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Automatic Needle Threader

[] Raise the needle to its highest position and

push down the needle threader knob until it

stops.. The hook comes out through the needle

eye from behind it.

Needle threader knob

(_) Hook

[]

Pull the thread down around the thread guide,

then pass the thread from the right and under

the hook as shown.

(_) Thread guide

[] Hold the end of the thread gently, and release

the needle threader knob gently so the loop of

thread is pulled up,

[] Remove the loop of thread from the threader

and pull out the end of thread from the needle

eye

,._ Recommended needles and threads for the

needle threader:

Threads: #50 to 100

Needles: #1t to I6 and Blue Tipped

needle

Drawing Up the Bobbin Thread

[] Raise the presser foot and hold the needle

thread with your left hand_

(_ Needle thread

[] Turn the handwheet one rotation toward you to

raise the needle to its highest position.

Draw up the needle thread to pick up a loop of

the bobbin thread.

(_) Bobbin thread

[] Slide 10 cm (47 of both threads to the back

under the presser foot,

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[]

26

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Pattern Selector Dial

Select the pattern by turning the pattern selector dial and

the selected pattern is shown in the pattern indicating

window

Raise the needle above the fabrics and raise the presser

foot when you turn the pattern selector dial,

O Pattern selector dial

(_ Pattern indicating window

Stitch Width Dial

Turn the stitch width dial to set the desired stitch width

at the setting mark,.

The higher the number, the wider the stitch width

(_ Setting mark

2 3

I

4 5 6 7 8 9 10

A

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_5 4 3

2 I 0_

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Stitch Length Dial

Turn the stitch length dial to set the desired stitch length

at the setting mark.

The higher the number, the longer the stitch length

You can select the suitable stitch length for fabrics that

you plan to sew..

(_ Setting mark

_, This "ECC]" mark indicates the adjustable

allowance for buttonhole stitch density.

_, Stitch length of" $I "is for the stretch stitch

patterns group A.

._ Stitch length of" $2 " is for the stretch stitch

patterns group B

Variable Needle Position

When the straight stitch is selected, you can move the

needle between center and left needle positions.

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SECTION ill. BASIC SEWING

Straight Stitch Sewing

Machine setting

pattern :

(b

Stitch

(_) Presser foot: A: Zigzag foot

(_ Thread tension dial: 2-6

(_ Stitch width: 0 or 5

(_) Stitch length: 1.5-4

Start sewing

Hold the fabric and threads with your left hand, and turn

the handwheel toward you and lower the needle to

pierce the fabric at the start sewing position.. Lower the

presser foot and start to sew

,_,To fasten the beginning of the seams, sew

several reverse stitches by pressing the reverse

stitch button.

Changing sewing directions

Stop the machine and bring the needle down into the

fabrics by turning the handwhee! toward you,,

Raise the presser foot,

Pivot the fabric around the needle to change the sewing

direction as desired,

Lower the presser foot and start sewing.

End of sewing and cutting threads

For fastening the end of seams, press the reverse stitch

button and sew several reverse stitches.

After finishing sewing, raise the presser foot and pull the

fabric to the rear and draw both needle and bobbin

threads up and into the thread cutter,,

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The threads are cut at the proper length for starting the

next seam.

(_ Thread cutter

Needle plate guide line

The seam guides on the needle plate and hook cover

plate help you to measure seam allowance.

The numbers on the needle plate indicate the distance

between the center needle position and the edge of the

fabric.

Number 10 20 30 40 1i2 i3/41 ! 1!1/2

Space(cm) t.0 20 3.0 40 13 2_I 2.5 38

(_ Distance between the center needle position and

the edge of the fabric

Guide line

30

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SECTION iV UTILITY STITCHgNG

Straight Stretch Stitch

Machine setting

(_ Stitch pattern:

(_ Presser foot: A: Zigzag foot

(_ Thread tension dial: 2-6

(_ Stitch width: 0 or 5

(_) Stitch length: $1

This strong, durable stitch is recommended where both

elasticity and strength are needed to insure comfort and

durability

Use it to reinforce areas such as crotch and armhole

seams, as well as to eliminate puckering on knits and

stretch fabrics Also use when constructing items

requiring extra strength such as backpacks

Sewing on Buttons

Machine setting

(_ Stitch pattern:

(_) Presser foot: F: Satin stitch foot

(_) Feed dogs: Dropped

O Thread tension dial: 3-7

(_ Stitch width: Adjust as necessary

(_) Stitch length: Any

.._ Turn the handwheel toward you to test the

needle swing making sure the needle drops in

each hole.,Adjust the stitch width if necessary.

Lower the presser foot to hold the button in

place.

%

A pin can be placed on top of the foot to from a

shank. Turn the handwheel toward you to check

the needle enters both left and right holes of

button

Press the foot control to sew I0 stitches and cut

the threads leaving 20 cm (8_)tail.

After sewing on button, pull the beginning of the

bobbin thread to pick up the needle thread on

the wrong side of the fabric and tie them

together, then trim the excess threads°

Pul! the end of needle thread to pick bobbin

thread up between the button and fabric,

Wind the threads in opposite directions around

the thread shank a few times and tie them

together.

[] When button sewing is finished, raise the feed

dog.

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JANOME 38514052200 Owner's manual

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