© EUROHEAT DISTRIBUTORS (H.B.S) LTD. May 2006
E & OE Instructions Part number IN1160 Ed B
4
Fuelling the Stove.
Always open the loading doors allowing a few seconds between breaking the seal and opening fully
toallowtheairowtostabilize.Loadingthestovethroughthesidedoor,andhavingtheairwash
ventclosedwhilstrefuellingwillminimizeanyfumesescapingfromthestove.Itisimportanttocheck
that no embers fall from the stove when opening the doors and that no embers have fallen after
closing the doors.
Trytointroducefreshwoodbeforetheamesfromapreviousloadinghaveextinguished.Ifthere
hasbecomeverylowitisadvisabletoraketheembersandtoinducetherebedtoglowbrightly
by opening the air wash fully for a few minutes. If the stove has become cold it may be necessary
to open the under grate air and introduce some kindling wood into the stove. Always rake a portion
of the embers towards the front of the stove and place the wood towards the back of the stove as
thiswillminimizethepossibilityofsmokereachingtheglassandofthewooditselffallingagainst
the glass. Loading wood to form an open, random, layout will help air to reach all parts of the wood;
loadingwooduniformlyanddenselywillrestrictairowandcausetheretoproducesmoke.
Correctlyfuelledandaeratedyourstoveiscapableofclean,highefciencyburning,butlikeallstoves
ifitismissmanageditwillbeinefcient,chokewithtarandsootwhilstpollutingtheneighbourhood
with smoke. Maintaining a clean efcient re begins with burning only the driest wood you can
possibly obtain. All wood will contain some moisture but because the wood will not reach its ignition
temperature until this moisture has been evaporated, the heat needed from wood already burning
to boil away this water is heat lost to the stove. The amount of heat lost can be calculated because
it is proportional to the amount of water in the wood.
Unfortunately not only is heat lost boiling away the water, the resultant water vapour swirling
throughout the stove’s combustion chamber tends to restrict and cool the air supply mixing with the
burning gasses, causing them to extinguish prematurely, resulting in further wasted heat as well as
allowingtheunburnedgassestodepositsootandtarintheue.
Burning Rate.
All adjustments to the air supply should me made gradually and the burning rate is matched to the
availablefuel.Dramaticallyreducingtheairsupplywithoneadjustmentwillcertainlycausethere
sizetorapidlydiminishbutitwillnotimmediatelycausethewoodtostopemittinggasses.Ifthe
stove is very hot, unburned gasses will not deposit their tars in the stove but they will be deposited
intheue.
Puttingonareboxfullofwoodandturningthestovetoalowairsettingwillcausesimilarproblems
becausethewoodwillheatwithinsufcientairtoburnandthetarswillevaporatefromthewoodto
be deposited on the stove interior. If a long, unattended, running time is required, run the stove at a
moderateburningrateandaddwoodastheinitialamesfromapreviousloadingbegintodiedown
untilsufcientwoodhasbeenloadedandgraduallyreducetheairsupplywhenthelastloadingis
charringwithamesfromallitssurfaces.
Letting the stove “tick over” with only one or two logs sitting on the grate is a false economy, and
difculttomaintaincleancombustionwithastoveoperatingatlowtemperatures.Yourstoveismade
from cast iron which takes time to absorb and dissipate heat and so it will give almost constant
heatingwhenrunincyclesofsmalltomediumres.
Refuelling "little and often" will give the most visually satisfying stove, and until you gain the experience
in operating your stove it will be the simplest method of operation. Successfully burning large charges
of fuel is only possible when you understand the operation of your stove, the performance of your
ue,andthecharacteristicsofthewoodyouareburning.