Sears Kenmore 385.18330 Owner's manual

Category
Sewing machines
Type
Owner's manual

This manual is also suitable for

S_FA/RtS
Owner's Manual
Manual de Instrucciones
Manuel d'instructions
SEWING MACHINE
MAQUINA DE COSER
MACHINE A COUDRE
Model }
Modelo
Mod61e
385.18330
CAUTION:
Before using this sewing
machine, read this manual
and follow all Safety Rules
and Operating Instructions.
Safety Instructions
Warranty
Specifications
Operation
Care and Maintenance
Troubleshooting
Sears Canada Inc., Toronto, Ont., M5B 2B8
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
Your sewing machine is designed and constructed only for HOUSEHOLD use.
Read all instructions before using this sewing machiner
DANGER--To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1o This sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in Always unplug this sewing machine from the
electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning,
2. Always unplug before replacing a sewing machine bulb. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts.
3. Do not reach for a sewing machine that has fallen into water. Unplug immediately.
4.. Do not place or store this sewing machine where it can fall or be pulled into a tub or sink. Do not place or drop it into water
or other liquid_
WARNING -- To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:
1. Do not allow this sewing machine to be used as a toy Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is used by
or near children_
2. Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this owner's manual.
Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this owner's manual°
3 Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped
or damaged, or dropped into water.
Return this sewing machine to the nearest Sears store or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical
adjustment,
4, Never operate this sewing machine with any air opening blocked_ Keep ventilation openings of this sewing machine and
foot controller free from accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening
6. Do not use outdoors.,
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (" 0") position, then remove plug from outlet,
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord,.
10 Keep fingers away from all moving parts, Special care is required around the sewing machine needle_
11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
12 Do not use bent needle&
13 Do not pull or push fabric while stitching It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
14. Switch this sewing machine off ("0 ") when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as threading the needle,
changing the needle, threading the bobbin or changing the presser foot, and the like..
15. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any
other adjustments mentioned in this owner's manual.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
When using your sewing machine for the first few times, place a waste fabric under the presser foot and run ]
t
the machine without thread for a few minutes.. Wipe away any oil which may appear_
WARRANTY
FULL 25 YEAR WARRANTY ON DEFECT IN MATERIAL OR WORKMANSHIP
For 25 years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which
appear in the internal mechanical part of the sewing machine.
FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF SEWING MACHINE
For two years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which
appear in the electrical and electronic equipment of the sewing machine, including motor, wiring, electronic components,
switch and speed control.
FULL 90-DAY WARRANTY ON ALL PARTS AND MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS
For 90 days from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, replace any parts and provide mechanical service
necessary for proper operation of the sewing machine, except for normal maintenance. Warranty service is available by
returning the sewing machine to the nearest Sears Service Center in the United States.
IF THIS MACHINE IS USED FOR COMMERCIAL OR RENTAL PURPOSES, THE ABOVE WARRANTY
COVERAGES APPLY FOR ONLY 90 DAYS FROM THE DATE OF PURCHASE
This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights which vary from province to province.
SEARS CANADA INC., TORONTO, ONT., M5B 2B8
GARANTIA
GARANTIA COMPLETA POR 25 AthOS EN LA CABEZA DE LA MAQUINA DE COSER
Durante 25 aSos desde la feeha de la compra, Sears ofrece, libre de costo, reparar los defectos en material o de manufactura que
puedan presentarse en los componentes mecanicos de la cabeza de la mAquina de coser
GARANTIA COMPLETA POR 2 AI_IOS EN EQUIPO ELECTRICO DE LA MAQUINA DE COSER
Durante 2 aSos desde la fecha de la compra, Sears ofrece, Iibre de costo, reparar los defectos en material o de manufactura que
puedan presentarse en el equipo el_ctrico de la m&quina de coser, incluyendo componentes electricos, motor, conexiones electricas,
interruptor y control de vefocidad
GARANTIA COMPLETA POR 90 DIAS SOBRE TODAS LAS PARTES Y AJUSTES MECANICOS
Durante 90 dfas desde la fecha de la compra, Sears ofrece, libre de costo, reemplazar cualquiera parte y proveer et servicio mecanico
necesario para la apropiada operaci6n de la mAquina de coser, excepto para mantenimiento normal.. El servicio de garantia se puede
obtener enviando la m#.quina de coser al centro/departamento de Servicios Sears mas cercano en los Estados Unidoso
SI ESTA Mh,QUINA DE COSER SE UTILIZA PARA PROP6SITOS COMERCIALES O DE ALQUILER_ LA COEIERTURA DE
GARANTI_, CITADA M._S ARRIBA ES VP,LIDA UNICAMENTE DURANTE 90 DfAS A PART1R DE LA FECHA DE COMPRA
Esta garanti& le daa usted derechos legales especfficos, pero usted puede tener tambi_n otros derechos los cuales varfan de
provincia a provincia.
SEARS CANADA INC., TORONTO, ONT., M5B 2B8
GARANTIE
GARANTIE TOTALE DE 25 ANS SUR LE MI_CANISME DE LA MACHINE
Pendant 25 arts, _.partir de la date d'achat, Sears r,_parera gratuitement tout d_faut de mat_riau ou de fabrication qui apparaitra dans
le m_canisme de votre machine
GARANTIE TOTALE DE DEUX ANS SUR UI_QUIPEMENT I_LECTRIQUE
Pendant deux ans, & partir de la date d'achat, Sears reparera gratuitement tout d6faut de materiau ou de fabrication qui apparaitra
clans le moteur, le c&blage, I'interrupteur ou la commande de vitesse de marche, dans tes circuits electriques ou _lectroniques.
GARANTIE TOTALE DE 90 JOURS SURTOUTES LES PII=CES ET LA MISE AU POINT DU M#-CANISME
Pendant 90 jours, & partlr de la date d'achat, Sears effectuera gratuitement tout remplacement de piece et r_glage n_cessaires
au bon fonctionnement de la machine; I'entretien ordinaire 6tant & la charge de I'utilisateur_ Pour b_n_ficier des avantages qu'offre la
garantie ci-dessus, adressez-vous a votre magasin habituel ou au service apres-vente Sears, partout aux Ctats-Unis
SI CETTE MACHINE ._ COUDRE SERT A DES FINS COMMERCIALES OU DE LOCATION, LA GARANTIE CI-DESSUS SE
LIMITE A 90 JOURS A COMPTER DE LA DATE D'ACHAT.
Cette garantie vous donne des dreits I_gaux precis, et _ventuellement d'autres droits, ceux-ci pouvant varier d'une province & una
autre
SEARS CANADA INC+, TORONTO, ONT., MSB 2B8
iV
Machine Specifications
Item
Sewing speed (Maximum):
Stitch length:
Stitch width:
Stitch package (Stitch functions):
(Built-in stitches):
Buttonhole:
Machine dimensions:
Weight (Net):
Specification
Over 730/830 r,p m.,
4 mm (Maximum)
6,,5 mm (Maximum)
53
3O
1 step built-in buttonhole
W 422 mm (166") x D 172 mm (648") x H 297 mrn (11 ,,7")
8,5kg (18,5 lbs)
Especificaciones de la mdquina
Artfculo
Velocidad de costura (M_xima):
Longitud de puntada:
Ancho de puntada:
Nt)mero de puntadas (Funcionamiento de puntadas):
(Integradas):
Ojales:
Dimensiones de la m&quina:
Peso:
Especificacidn
M&s de 730/830 r,pom.
4 mm (M_ima)
65 mm (M_xima)
53
3O
Funci6n de ojal incorporado de 1 pasos
422 mm (16,6") de ancho x 172 mm (6,8") de profundidad x
297 mm (117") de altura
8oSkg (18,5 Ibs)
Caractdristiques de la machine
Description
Vitesse de couture (Maximum):
Longueur du point:
Largeur du'point:
Ensemble de points (points de couture):
(points int6gr_s):
Boutonniere:
Dimensions de la machine:
Poidsde la machine:
Caractdristiques
730/830 points-minute
4 mm (Maximum)
65 mm (Maximum)
53
3O
Boutonniere int_gr_e en 1 _tapes
Largeur: 422 mm (16,6") x profondeur: 172 mm (6.8") x
hauteur: 297 mm (11,7")
8_5kg (18o5 [b)
J
J
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION I. NAME OF PARTS
Cabinets ......................................................................... 2
Names of Parts ............................................................. 2
Available Accessories and Attachments ....................4
SECTION I!. GETTING READY TO SEW
Connecting Machine to Power Supply ......................6
For Your Safety ................................................................6
Operating Instructions .................................................. 6
Controlling Sewing Speed ............................................. 6
Pressure Adjusting Lever ...............................................8
Presser Foot Lifter................................................................ 8
Thread Cutter ............................................................ 8
Accessory Box .............................................................. 8
Extension Table ......................................................................8
Set the speed range switch .......................................10
Changing Needle .......................................................... !0
To Remove and Attach the Foot Holder ....................10
Changing Presser Feet .......................................... 12
Presser Foot Types ............................................... 12
A: Zigzag foot ................................................... 12
H: Straight stitch foot .............................................. 12
* B: Buttonhole foot ............................................... 12
E: Zipper foot ...............................................................12
F: Satin stitch foot ................................................... 14
G: Blind hem stitch foot ............................................14
C: Overedge foot ............................................................ 14
, R: Automatic buttonhole foot .....................................14
° Quilter ................................................................ 14
Selecting Needle and Thread ............................... 16
Bobbin Winding ................................................... 20-24
=Removing the hook cover plate .................... 20
- Horizontal spool pin .................................................20
, Additional spool pin .......................................... 20
- Bobbin winding ................................................ 22
o Inserting the bobbin ....................................................24
Threading the machine ........................................ 26
Threading the machine ....................................... 26
Needle threader ..................................................... 26
- Drawing up bobbin thread ...................................... 26
Adjust the Needle Thread Tension for Straight
Stitch .......................................................................... 28
- Correct tension ....................................................... 28
Tension is too tight .................................................. 28
° Tension istoo loose ................................................ 30
Adjust the Needle Thread Tension for Zigzag
Stitch ...................................................................... 30
Correct tension .............................................. 30
Tension is too tight ................................................ 30
oTension is too loose .............................................. 30
Stitch Selector ....................................................... 32
Stitch Width Control .................................................. 34
Stitch Length Control .......................................... 34
Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance .......................... 36
Reverse Stitch Control ................................................36
SECTION III. STRAIGHT STITCH SEWING
Straight Stitch ............................................................. 38
Starting to sew ...................................................................38
Finishing sewing ................................................. 38
Use the Seam Guides ....................................................38
Turn a Square Corner ............................................... 38
Use the Quilter Guide ................................................ 38
Topstitching ............................................................. 40
Quilting .................................................................................... 40
Zipper Sewing .......................................................42 - 44
III. Straight stitch sewing (continued)
To snap on the zipper foot................................... 42
Fabric preparation .......................................................................42
oTOsew ..........................................................................42
To Drop or Raise the Feed Dogs ........................... 46
Darning ............................................................................ 46
SECTION IV. ZIGZAG STITCHES
Basic Zigzag ................................................................ 48
Satin Stitch ...........................................................................48
Monogramming ...................................................................50
Applique ..........................................................................50
Bar Tacking ...................................................................52
Embroidery ...........................................................................52
Button Sewing ................................................................54
Overcasting Stitch ...............................................................54
SECTION V. UTILITY STITCHES AND
DECORATIVE STITCHES
Blind Hem Stitch ..................................................................... 56
To sew ............................................................................56
Changing needle position .................................... 56
Lace Work ................................................................ 58
Multiple Zigzag Stitch .......................................................58
Shell Stitch ....................................................................60
Box Stitch ................................................................ 60
Fagoting Stitch ........................................................... 62
Two-point Shell Stitch ............................................... 62
Two-point Box Stitch .................................................... 62
Overedge Stitch ............................................................64
Decorative Stitch of Geometric Patterns ..................64
SECTION Vl. STRETCH STITCHES
Straight Stretch .................................................... 66
Rick-rack Stretch .................................................... 66
Overcast Stretch Stitching ................................... 68
To sew ................................................................. 68
Smocking ............................................................................... 68
Serging .................................................................................70
Elastic Stretch Stitch .................................................. 70
Stretch Patching ........................................................... 70
Herring Bone Stretch .................................................. 72
Decorative Stretch Patterns ......................................72
SECTION VII. BUTTONHOLE AND TWIN
NEEDLE STITCHES
Auto Buttonhole ................................................... 74-78
Preparation for sewing ..................................... 74
To sew ..................................................................... 74
How to Adjust Buttonhole Stitch Balance ..................78
Corded buttonhole ................................................... 80
Manual Buttonhole ................................................... 82
Manual buttonhole ................................................... 82
Automatic Buttonhole (Optional item) .................84-90
Buttonhole style and size ............................................84
To sew ................................................ ............... 86
To adjust stitch density .......................................... 90
Twin Needle Stitches .................................................. 92
SECTION VIII. CARE OF YOUR MACHINE
Replacing the Light Bulb ...............................................94
Cleaning the Bobbin Holder ...................................................94
Cleaning the Hook Race and Feed Dogs ...................96
Oiling the Machine ..................................................... 96
Troubleshooting ................................................................... 98
VI
SECTION I. NAMES OF PARTS
Cabinets
Afullline ofsewing machine cabinets and Tote bags
are available through the RSOS catalog at your
nearest Sears retail store,,
Names of Parts
Q Reverse stitch control
(_) Sewing guide display
Q Stitch selector
Stitch length setting display
® Stitch width setting display
_) Stitch length control
0 Stitch width control
® Bobbin winder spindle
0 Spool pin
@ Upper thread guide
@ Thread take-up lever
@ Thread tension dial
@ Face cover
@ Thread cutter
@ Needle Threader
@ Needle plate
0 Hook cover plate
@ Hook cover plate release button
@ Extension table (Accessory box)
@ Speed range switch
@ Handwheel
@ Buttonhole pitch balance adjusting lever
@ Feed balancing dial
@ Power switch
@ Machine socket
@ Nomenclature plate
@ Drop feed lever
@ Free-arm
Presser foot lifter
® Carrying handle
@ Presser foot
@ Needle clamp screw
@ Snap-on button
@ Foot control
Buttonhole lever
Thumb screw
F
2
Available Accessories and Attachments
All parts listed may be ordered from any Sears store or
service center.
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE
FOLLOWING INFORMATION:
1oPARTNUMBER
2. PARTDESCRIPTION
3, MODEL NUMBER
4. NAME OF ITEM (SEWING MACHINE)
If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order
will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts
Distribution Center for expedited handling
Ref,,No.,
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
Pa_ No.
"102869107
102403202
650807008
*993001100
*993011100
"993011400
'993011600
'993011800
"826815000
625031500
823801015
685502019
822804118
829801002
629801016
822801001
820817015
753801004
802422002
479701901
000009803
647808009
820832005
"741814003
802424004
8220205O3
822019509
"213502003
*213501116
"213504005
"213505006
*213506007
"213503015
"200002008
"200003009
"200005001
*200013105
*214872011
"941620000
*200262101
Description
lO x 8obbin
Spool pin fell
Assorted needle set
5 x No 11 stretch fabric needle (BLUE)
5 x No, 11 needle (ORANGE)
6 x No, t4 needle (RED)
5 x No t6 needle (PURPLE)
5 x No, 16 needle (GREEN)
Twin needle
Additional spool pin
H: Straight stitch foot
A: Zigzag foot
F; Satin stitch foot
E: 71pper foot
B: Buttonhole foot
C; Overedge foot
G: Blind hem foot
R: Automatic buttonhole foot
Quilter
Cer_ing case
Light bulb
Seam ripper/Buttonhole opener
Large screwdriver
Oil
Lint brush
Large spool holder
Small spool holder
Buttonhole guide plate
Buttonhole b,ase plate
Template (Round end, small)
Template (Round end, large)
Template (Keyhole)
Buttonhole foot
Piping foot
Gathering foot
Pin-tuck foot
Hemmer foot (2ram)
Walking foot
Ruffler
Needle threader
* These items am not furnished with the machine, but may be
orderedper instructionsabove
"1 2 3 *4
6 7 8 9
11
15
*19 20
12
16
5
10
17
21
*23 *24
*26 "27 *28
"31 *32
22
*29 *30
SECTION Ih GETTING READY TO SEW
Connecting Machine to Power Supply
Q Power supply plug _ Power switch
(_) Outlet _ Machine socket
(_ Machine plug (_ Light bulb
Before connecting the power cord, make sure the voltage
and frequency shown on the machine conform to your
electrical power.
1. Turn off the power switch (_)o
2. Insert the machine plug (_) into the machine socket (_),
3. Insert the power supply plugOinto the outlet (_).
4. Turn the power switch(_to turn on the power and
sewing light (_°
For Your Safety
* While in operation, always keep your eyes on the sewing
area. Do not touch any moving parts such as the thread
take-up lever, handwheel or needle.
* Always turn off the power switch and unplug from the
power supply:
- When leaving the machine unattended.
- When attaching or removing any parts
- When cleaning the machine..
* Do not place anything on the foot control, when not sewing
Operating Instructions:
"For appliances with a polarized plug (one blade
wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock,
this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way
If it does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still
does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the
power outlet,. Do not modify the plug in any way,"
"Foot Controller Model YC-482J-1 is used with Sewing
Machine Model 38518330 XXX."
XXX - represents numbers 000 through 999.
Controlling Sewing Speed
Sewing speed can be varied by the foot control.
The harder you press on the foot control, the faster the
machine runs.
f
_J
..........,J
Pressure Adjusting Lever r -,
(_ Pressure adjusting lever
The pressure adjusting lever should be set at "3" for regular
sewing.
Reduce pressure to "2" for applique, cut work, draw work and
basting.
Set pressure at "1" when sewing chiffon, lace, organdy and
other fine fabrics. Velour and knits with a lot of stretch may also
require pressure at "1".
Presser Foot Lifter
Q Presser foot lifter
(_ Normal up position
Q Highest position
The presser foot lifter raises and lowers the presser fool
You can raise it about 1/4"(0.6 cm) higher than the normal up
position for easy removal of the presser foot or to help you
place heavy fabric under the foot.
Thread Cutter
(_ Thread cutter
You do not need a pair of scissorsto cut threads after sewing,,
Just use the built-in thread cutter,
f
..... J
Extension Table
Detaching the table:
Pult the table away from the machine, as illustrated.
Attaching tha table:
Puch the extension table until it snaps into the machine
(_ Extension table
(_) Projection
(_ Hole
Accessory Box
Open the cover of the accessory box toward you. Sewing
accessories are conveniently located in the box.
8
J
Set the speed range switch
Your machine has two ranges of speed -- a low range for
slower, intricate work and high one for faster, general work
On the low setting the machine witl sew no faster than
appoximately two-thirdthe speed ofthe highone, even when
the foot control is fully depressed°
NOTE: It is advisable not to change the speed range
switch while machine is nmning_
, HIGH
Changing Needle
O Needle clamp screw
(_) Pin
(_ Needle clamp
[] Turn offthe power switch.
Raise the needle to its highest position by turning
the handwheel counterclockwise, toward you, and
lowering the presser foot.
Loosen the needle clamp screw Oby turning it
counterclockwise
Remove the needle from the needle clamp (_o
[] Insert a new needle into the needle clamp (_) with
the flat side to the rear.
When inserting the needle into the needle clamp (_,
push it up as far as it goes, Tighten the needle clamp
screw C) firmly by turning it clockwise,
[] To check for a good needle, place the flat side of
the needle onto something flat (needle plate, glass,
etc.)
The gap between the needle and the flat surface
should be consistent_ Never use a bent or blunt
needle.
A damaged needle can cause permanent snags
or runs in knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics.
To Remove and Attach the Foot Holder
(_) Thumb screw
(_) Foot holder
(_) Presser bar
[] To remove:
Remove the thumb screw (_ by turning it
counterclockwise with a screwdriver
[] To attach:
Match the hole in the foot holder Q with the threaded
hole inthe presser bar(_). Fit the thumb screwL'_ into
the hole. Tighten the screw (_ by turning itclockwise
with screwdriver.
..... J
[]
[]
f
10
Changing Presser Foot
(_) Snap-on button (red button)
(_) Groove
Pin
[] To remove: Raise the needle to itshighest position by
turning the handwheel counterclockwise,, Raise the
presser foot, and press the red button 0 on the back of
the foot holder,
[] To atlach: Place a selected presser foot so the pin (_ on
the foot lies just under the groove (_ on the foot holder.
Lower the presser bar to lock the foot in place,
Presser Foot Types
Zigzag foot (Foot A)
Use this foot for both straight and zigzag stitching.
For: Striaght stitch (Page 38)
Topstitching (Page 40)
Basic zigzag (page 48)
Bar tacking (page 52)
Button sewing (page 54)
Overcasting stitch (page 54)
Lace work (page 58)
Multiple zigzag stitch (page 58)
Box stitch (page 60)
Fagoting stitch (page 62)
Two-point shell stitch (page 62)
Two-point box stitch (page 62)
Overedge stitch (page 64)
Straight stretch (page 66)
Rick-rack stretch (page 66)
Overcast stretch stitching (page 68)
Smocking (page 68)
Serging (page 70)
Elastic stretch stitch (page 70)
Stretch patching (page 70)
Herring bone stretch (page 72)
Decorative stretch patterns (page 72)
Twin needle stitches (page 92)
Straight stitch foot (Foot H)
Use this foot exclusively for straight stitching with center
needle position,
For: Straight stitch (page 38)
Topstitching (page 40)
Straight stretch (page 66)
[]
f
[]
Foot A:
Pie A:
Pied A:
Foot H:
Pie H:
Pied H:
* Buttonhole foot (Foot B)
Use this foot for manual buttonholing,
It is marked to help you measure your buttonholes accurately
For: Buttonhole making (page B2).
Zipper foot (Foot E)
This foot can be set to sew on each side of the
zipper The edges of the foot guide the zipper and
keep the seam straight,
For: Zipper sewing (page 42,44)
f
t.,
r
Foot B:
Pie B:
Pied B:
Foot E:
Pie E:
Pied E:
12
Presser Foot Types (continued)
oSatin stitch foot (Foot F)
Use this foot for satin stitch and outlining applique.
For: Darning (page 46)
Satin stitch (page 48)
Monogramming (page 50)
Applique (page 50)
Shell stitch (page 60)
Decorative stitch of geometric patterns (page 64)
Smocking (page 68)
Twin needle stitches (page 92)
Blind hem stitch foot (Foot G)
Use this foot for perfect blind hemming and topstitching The
foot has ridges on the bottom to keep the fabric from slipping
and a screw on top to guide the folded edge of your hem.
For: Blind hem stitch (page 56)
F
Foot F:
Pie F:
Pied F:
Foot G:
Pie G:
Pied G:
,,,J
Overedge foot (Foot C)
This foot is specially constructed for stitching and/or overcasting
seams. The small brush and wire guides help control the fabric,
hold the raw edge in place and keep it from puckering, espe-
cially when sewing on knit fabrics,
For: Overcasting stitch (Page 54)
Serging (page 70)
Foot C:
Pie C:
Pied C:
J
° Automatic buttonhole foot (Foot R)
Use this foot for one step automatic buttonholing.
Simply set a button on the guide of this foot and depress the foot
control.
You can sew exactly the same length of buttonhole as the but-
toll.
For: Automatic buttonhole (page 74)
Foot R:
Pie R:
Pied R:
Quilter
The quilter will help to keep the stitching lines straight.
For: Straight stitching (page 38,40)
Quilter:
Gula de acolchado:
Guide & matelasser:
14
Selecting Needle and Thread
For general sewing use needle size 11 or 14. A fine thread and needle should be used for sewing lightweight fabrics so
the fabric will not be marred. Heavy fabrics require a needle large enough to pierce the fabric without fraying the needle
thread.
In the needle set there isone each of size 1t, 14, 16, 18 and a blue needle. Use the blue needle to eliminate skipped
stitches when sewing knits and synthetic fabrics
Special needles should be used on certain fabric& A denim needle with a sharp tip effectively pierces dense fabrics such
as denim and canvas. For topstitching, a special topstitching needle with a larger eye accommodates heavier weight
thread. Leather needles punch small holes in leather and suede allowing the thread to follow through the hole_
Check your needles frequently for rough or blunt tips,.Snags and runs in knits,fine silks and silk4ike fabrics are
permanent and are often caused by damaged needles°
Always purchase a good quality thread, It should be strong, smooth and consistent in thickness.,
WEIGHT FABRIC TYPE OF NEEDLE NEEDLE SIZE
Chiffon, Georgette, Fine Lace, Organdy, Organdy Universal 9 (65)
Very Light Net, Tulle Bal! Point 9 (65)
11 (75)
Light
Medium
Batiste, Voile, Lawn, Pure Silk, Crepe de Chine,
Sheer Crepe, Chambray, Handkerchief Linen,
Gingham, Challis, Percale, Wool Crepe, Peau de
Sole, Taffeta, Satin, Silk Surah, Satin-backed
Crepe, Qiana
Single Knits, Jersey, Swimwear, Tricot
Leather, Suede
Flannel, Velour, Velvet, Muslin, Velveteen, Poplin,
Corduroy, Broadcloth, Linen, Chintz, Gabardine,
Felt, Terry, Burlap, Quilted Fabrics
Double Knits, (synthetic and natural) Stretch
Velour,
Stretch Terry,
Sweater Knits
Orange
Blue
Blue
Ball Point
Wedge Point Leather
Red
Ball Point
11 (75)
12 (80)
11 (75)
11 (75)
1t (75)
14 (90)
14 (90)
14 (90)
16 (100)
Leather, Vinyl, Suede Wedge Point Leather
Denim, Sailcloth, Ticking Denim
Double Faced Wool, Heavy Coating, Fake Furl ...............Purple ..........16 i"lOO)
Heavy Drapery Fabrics
Leather, Suede Wedge Point Leather 16 (100)
Canvas, Duck, Upholstery Fabrics Green 18 (110)
Topstitching for Special Finish Topstitching 11 (75)
14 (90)
16
Bobbin Winding
Removing the hook cover plate
(_) Hook cover plate release button
(_) Hook cover plate
Slide the hook cover plate release button Q to the right,and
remove the hook cover plate (_.
° Horizontal spool pin
(_ Spool pin
Large spool holder
(_ Small spool holder
Lift up the spool pin Q., Place a spool ofthread on the spool
pin with the thread coming offthe spool as shown°
Attach the large spool holder (_, and press itfirmly against
the spool of thread.
The small spool holder ® is used with narrow or small spools
of thread.
° Additional spool pin
0 Additional spool pin
_) Spool pin hole
(_ Spool pin felt
The additional spool pin 0 isfor bobbin winding without
unthreading the machine and for twin needle sewing,
Insert the additional spool pin0 in the hole _.
Place the felt (_ and a spool on the pin,
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Bobbin winding
(_) For horizontal spool pin
(_ For additional spool pin
[] Pull the handwheel out to the right,
[] Draw thread from the spool.
[] Guide the thread around the thread guide.
[] Thread through the hole in the bobbin from the inside to
the outside.
[] Put the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle,
[] Push the bobbin to the dght,
[] With free end of the thread held in your hand, depress the
foot control. Stop the machine when it has made a few
turns and cut the thread close to the hole in the bobbin°
[] Depress the foot control again. When the bobbin isfully
wound, it stops automatically. Return the bobbin winder
to its original position by moving the spindle to the left and
cut the thread as shown.
[] Push the handwheel in.
* The machine does not function until the clutch is engaged,,
NOTE:
Position of the bobbin winder stopper is adjustable
for the required amount of thread on the bobbin
(example 1/2 full or full etco).
Use a screwdriver and loosen the screw one turn or
tess so that you can adjust the position of the bobbin
winder stopper,
Do not take o_ the screw atl the way.
l_
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[]
[]
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22
Inserting the bobbin
(_ End of thread
(_ Notch
(_) Notch
(_ Threading chart
[] Place a bobbin in the bobbin holder with the thread
running off counterclockwise,
[] Guide the thread into the notch _ on the front side of the
bobbin holder. Draw the thread to the left, sliding it between
the tension spring blades,
[] Continue to draw the thread lightly until the thread slips into
the notch (_. Pull out about 60" (t5°0cm) of thread_
[] Attach the hook cover plate, Check the threading by
referring to the chart (_ shown on the hook cover plate,
[]
[]
[]
_., "
-7\._
[]
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24
Threading the Machine
° Threading the machine
* Raise the thread take-up lever to its highest position by
turning the handwheel counterclockwise.
* Raise the presser foot lifter.
* Place a spool on the spool pin, with thread coming off as
shown°
[] Draw the end of thread around the upper thread guide.
[] While holding the thread near the spool, draw the end of
the thread down around the check spring holder.
[] Firmly draw the thread up from right to left over the take-up
lever and down into the take-up lever eye..
[] Slide the thread behind the needle bar thread guide on the
left.
[] Thread the needle from front to back or use a needle
threader.
° Needle threader
[] Raise the needle to its highest position_ Pull down
the needle threader knob as far as it willgo.
[] Turn the knob in the direction of the arrow in the
illustration, then insert hook 0 intothe needle eye.
Lead the thread around guide (_ and under hook
@,
[] Turn the knob in the direction of the arrow in the
illustration, drawing the thread loop through the
needle..
[] Pull the thread through the needle eye.
*The needle threader can be used with a #11 to
#16 needle or a #11 Blue needle.
Thread size 50 to 100 should work wello
Hook
Guide
[]
[]
@
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26
Drawing up bobbin thread
[] Raise the presser foot. Hold the needle thread lightly with
your left hand and turn the handwheel counterclockwise
for one complete turn°
[] Bring the bobbin threadup by pulling the needlethread
up
[] Pull both threads under and to the back of the presser
foot, leaving 4_0 to 6.0" (10.0 to 15.0 cm) of thread clear.
Adjust the Needle Thread Tension for
Straight Stitch
° Correct tension
(_ Needle thread (Top thread)
(_ Bobbin thread (Bottom thread)
To loosen
(_ To tighten
The ideal straight stitch has threads locked between two layers
of fabric, as illustrated (magnified to show detail).
If you look at the top and bottom of a seam, notice that there
are no gaps. Each stitch is smooth and even°
When adjusting needle thread tension, the higher the number,
the tighter the top thread tension.
Results depend on:
stiffness and thickness of the fabric
-- number of fabric layers
-- type of stitch
[]
[]
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Tension is too tight
(_ Needle thread (Top thread)
(_ Bobbin thread (Bottom thread)
(_ To loosen
(_ Right side (Top side)
(_) Wrong side (Bottom side)
The bobbin thread shows through on the right side of the fabric
and it feels bumpy. Turn the dial to a lower tension setting
number to loosen the needle thread tension.
28
f
Tension is too loose
(_ Needle thread (Top thread)
Q Bobbin thread (Bottom thread)
(_ To tighten
(_ Right side (Top side)
(_ Wrong side (Bottom side)
The needle thread shows through on the wrong side
of the fabric and itfeels bumpy Turn the dial to a higher
tension setting number to tighten the needle thread tension_
Adjust the Needle Thread Tension for Zigzag
Stitch
For an ideal zigzag stitch, the bobbin thread does not show on
the right side (Top side) of the fabric and needle thread shows
slightly on the wrong (Bottom side) side of the fabdc.
See the illustrations for correct appearance,.
To match this appearance, adjust the needle tension.
m
° Correct tension
(_ Right side (Top side) of fabric
(_ Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric
Minimize the amount of needle thread visible on the wrong side
(Bottom side) of fabric without causing excessive puckering or
causing bobbin thread to show on the right
side (Top side) of fabric,
Results vary with fabric, thread and sewing condition.
Tension is too tight
Q Right side (Top side) of fabric
Q Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric
Corner of each zigzag pulls together on the right side of fabric..
Tension is too loose
(_ Right side (Top side) of fabric
(_ Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric
The needle thread loops through wrong side (Bottom side) of
fabric and is pulled almost together.
@ ®
®
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30
Stitch Selector (how to select stitches)
Raise the needle to the highest position, and select a pattern
by turning the stitch selector_
The red mark will be shown on the selected stitch.
(Set the stitch length control at SS when using the stretch
stitch.)
* Window 0 shows stitch number, foot number and stitch.
* Window (_) shows the desired stitch length for the selected
stitch,.
* Window _3)shows the desired stitch width for the selected
stitch.
Stitch patterns are color-coded to a recommended setting
zone at the stitch length control.
ZONES:
Red:
Green:
Blue:
Gold:
Straight, Zigzag and Utility stitches
Geometric decorative stitches
Built-in buttonhole
Stretch stitches
(_ Sewing guide display
(_ Stitch selector
(_) Red mark
®
0
®
0--1 --2--3----4-----5_---65
WIDTH
I¢==
V_0=1=2m3m4
STRETCH
LENGTH
I 2 3 4 5BH6 7 8 9101112131415161718
(> ," I I I
5.:.<iLl,=,,,o,3)!,5;:'
32
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Sears Kenmore 385.18330 Owner's manual

Category
Sewing machines
Type
Owner's manual
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