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instructables Banana Candles Made Operating instructions

  • Hello! I've reviewed the instructions for creating banana candles using 3D printing and plaster. This document outlines the complete process, from 3D modeling and mold creation to casting plaster and making the candle part. It includes tips for using CURA software and guidance on painting and finishing. I'm ready to answer any questions you have about this project.
  • What materials are needed to make the banana candles?
    How do I prepare the 3D printed mold for plaster casting?
    What is the purpose of the MOLD setting in CURA?
instructables
BANANA CANDLES MADE WITH PLASTER AND 3D PRINTING
by kura_kura
I saw this weird banana candleholder somewhere on the internet and I failed to save it, so I was forced to make my own
version.
This candle/candle holder consists of two parts- top part is candle and bottom part is plaster. If you plan on actually
lighting the candle, you can save the 3D printed mould and make more candles in the future.
I'm also showing an example on how to use MOLD setting in CURA and how to cast plaster in 3D printed moulds.
Supplies:
3D PRINTER
PLASTER OF PARIS/GYPSUM/CEMENT (OPTIONAL)
CANDLE WAX, WICKS
SANDING PAPER, SCALPEL, FILLER/PUTTY, DISPOSABLE GLOVES
BRUSHES, ACRYLIC PAINTS, TOUGH EXTERIOR VARNISH
BANANA CANDLES MADE WITH PLASTER AND 3D PRINTING: Page 1
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Step 1: BANANA CANDLE MODEL
Step 2: LOWER BANANA MODEL
I used https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3664845 as a base for my banana, tweaked it roughly to thicken the peeled
sides and added an exposed banana part. Both pieces are overlocking, candle part will t seamlessly within the plaster
part.
https://www.tinkercad.com/embed/erCIm94JSrJ?editbtn=1
https://www.tinkercad.com/embed/9PWvJGL8plq?editbtn=1
BANANA CANDLES MADE WITH PLASTER AND 3D PRINTING: Page 4
Step 3: LOWER BANANA PART - PLA COVERED IN PLASTER
This part can be printed as you'd normally do and then processed. So, sanding, ller, paint, varnish, as usual.
I was dead set on using plaster to try and recreate some rough plaster texture and I decided to experiment with covering
PLA print with a layer of plaster.
Once I printed it in PLA (not a good quality print, 0.3mm layer height, 15% inll, 3 walls...mainly to save time, I had other
projects waiting to be printed), I covered it in a thin layer of plaster. I wasn't too optimistic, plaster usually doesn't stick to
plastic, but somehow it turned out alright.
First, I used a sanding paper (40 grit) to rough the print up. Then, I mixed a small amount of plaster of Paris (reinforced
plaster) to the consistency of heavy cream and used a disposable brush to apply it all over the print. I let it dry, sanded it
and added second layer before sanding again.
BANANA CANDLES MADE WITH PLASTER AND 3D PRINTING: Page 5
Step 4: LOWER BANANA PART- PLASTER CAST Part1
There is a magical feature in CURA, that allows you to make moulds (or molds). I have no idea what the intended purpose
of this setting is, but I've been using it to print moulds of busts and statues, ower pots and really, anything that could be
cast in plaster.
All you have to do is go to settings in cura and type MOLD to see your options. Click all available options and you are
ready to experiment with moulds.
Here are some tips:
-It takes about 2x longer to print a part in mold setting than in normal setting.
-Print with thin walls- 1-2 walls, but preferably just a single wall
- You have to print with an inll, depending on the size and shape of your part, you will have to use between 5 and 15%.
You can't print without it, it will be too imsy and plaster will cause the plastic mould to bulge.
-Pay attention to retraction settings, you don't to end up with stringy parts, especially on the inside, where plaster will go.
-Certain shapes will require supports. This again will have to be closely monitored. Wrong settings like wrong overhang
angle or support placement can mess your print. Basically, you don't want supports being printed inside the mould in
places where you won't be able to remove them.
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Step 5: LOWER BANANA PART- PLASTER CAST Part2
Once it's printed, take a look inside and make sure there are no holes stringy bits. If necessary, clean it as much as
possible, remove supports and if you have any holes, cover them with ller or putty. There shouldn't be any holes if the
print is good quality and your printer is well calibrated.
-Mix plaster (or cement) with water and pour it into the mould.
-This part had some small, tight places, so I poured plaster into a piping bag, taped a short length of plastic straw to the
tip and used this contraption to pour plaster into all those tiny holes.
-Leave it to set. I can't stress it enough- leave it for days. You want it to be fully cured, not just set, otherwise plaster will
crack once you start removing it.
-Once it's cured, use a combination of (mostly makeshift) tools to remove the plastic mould.
-I used dremel to cut through the rst wall of plastic and then used a small tool to peel the most inner wall -->
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rolson-59137-Wax-Carver-S...
-Sand the plaster.
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Step 6: PAINTING
Use acrylic paints and/or spray paints to decorate the lower part of the banana. I went with strong colours inspired by
pop art.
BANANA CANDLES MADE WITH PLASTER AND 3D PRINTING: Page 18
Step 7: CANDLE PART
Step 8: CANDLE MOULD
Ready to print mould for the candle part. Mould has keys for easy and fast interlocking and elongated edges, so paper
clamps can be sued to hold the mould together.
https://www.tinkercad.com/embed/l3iteG7Th2a?editbtn=1
-The inside of the mould had a bit of a rough texture and I wasn't sure if it will be a problem later on, so I applied a layer
of tough, outdoor varnish to the inside of the mould.
-I assembled the mould with paper clamps and used a hot glue gun to temporarily attach the wick to the top of the
mould. I also used more glue around the top edges to make sure wax doesn't seep out.
-To keep the wick straight, I secured it with got glue and toothpicks (pic.3)
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