Martelli
Enterprises
proudly presents
THE
Congratulations on your purchase of the LaCresta Long Arm Frame and Bella Prima Machine.
We know that you will enjoy countless hours of quilting on this revolutionary system!
LaCresta Long-Arm and Bella Prima Quilting Machine
Assembly Guide & User Manual
5450 North “W” Street • Pensacola, FL 32505
850-433-1414 • www.martellinotions.com
Note: At times we may make a few changes or upgrades to our frame, machine or electronics.
For this reason some photos may dier slightly from your machine or frame.
LaCresta Long-Arm and Bella Prima Quilting Machine
Assembly/ Installation Guide
Martelli Enterprises oers, as an option, on site installation, training and support.
If you have not purchased this, then the following information will be extremely important to you.
Before you can get started enjoying your machine, you will need to unpack, set up, test your machine,
and practice some basic long arm skills. Please read the following instructions carefully prior to
assembling the frame, mounting and setting up your machine.
Note: At times we may make a few changes or upgrades to our frame, machine or electronics.
For this reason some photos may dier slightly from your machine or frame.
If you have any questions:
please call Martelli Enterprises at 850-433-1414
Safety Recommendations:
Read all directions provided before proceeding with installation. Use caution
when handling parts and tools to avoid personal injury or damage to the frame
or your workspace. When working with any sharp edges, wear work gloves to
protect your hands.
To begin with the installation, it is recommended that you:
1. Visit www.martellinotions.com and print out the latest version of the LaCresta Manual or updates to this manual
2. Recruit a helper to assist you with the assembly and installation process.
3. With your designated helper, review this manual to become familiar with the assembly process.
4. Decide where you will use your La Cresta and free up enough space for both unpacking and setup.
5. Ensure that you’ve received all required parts. If not, make a list missing parts and contact us at 850-433-1414.
6. Gather necessary tools and accessories
7. Read all instructions thoroughly before you begin
Tools/Materials Needed for Assembly:
Printed Instructions
5/16” Allen Wrench
1/8” Allen Wrench
¾” Crescent Wrench
Level for leveling machine
Rubber Mallet (optional)
Screwdriver for installing sewing machine needle
NOTE:
With time, the information provided will grow to include much more than what you’ll nd here.
If you have suggestions, questions or corrections, contact us at [email protected]oxmail.com
or call us at 850-433-1414 so that we can make the beginning process easier and better.
If you received a DVD along with this manual, please note that there may be some dierences, but your
frame and machine are essentially the same. We are always striving to keep our machines and the electronics
as up to date as possible.Therefore this manual will include the most current modications.
Thank you for your continued support of Martelli Enterprises and we hope you enjoy your new Bella Prima!
- 1 -
- 2 -
Attaching Idle Rollers (E & F) to Frame
The two IDLE ROLLERS not only secure the machine from mov-
ing too far forward or backward, but help keep your quilt top,
batting and backing fabric (when loaded) straight and taunt.
Each roller has a spring-loaded end and one end that contains
a cap with a threaded hole.
1. Position quilting machine so it is moved slightly to the front of the
frame. Be sure machine is not moved so far forward carriage rolls o
trolley. Refer to caution on previous page.
2. Idle Roller (E) is slid through the open arm of the machine. Refer-
ring to diagram, working from the back of the frame, attach IDLE
ROLLER (E ) to frame by positioning the spring loaded end on pin in
location E on the side panel to your right (Left side panel if facing
front of machine and frame). Make sure the black knob is loosened
enough for spring to move in or out freely. Bring opposite end of
pole into position. Push hard enough that spring loaded end short-
ens enough to bring pole onto position and slips in place on “pin.”
Tighten black knob on spring loaded end to secure roller in place.
3. Working from the front of the frame, repeat above step to attach IDLE ROLLER (F) in place with the spring loaded end on your
left as you are facing the front of the machine. (Standing in front of the frame, both spring-loaded ends will be on your left.)
Attaching Take-Up Roller (G) to Frame
The TAKE- UP ROLLER takes up the quilt as it is being completed. Each roller has a spring-loaded end and one end that
contains a cap with a threaded hole and tension clutch.
1. Position quilting machine so the take up roller will pass through arm of the machine. When the take-up roller is secured in
position, the danger of the quilting machine moving to far forward or o the trolley is eliminated.
2. Referring to the photo and diagram, working from the front of the frame, attach the TAKE-UP ROLLER (G ) to frame by rst
holding the spring loaded end in position on the side panel to your left. Insert bolt into hole from outside frame and tighten
just enough to hold in place securely. Bring the opposite end of roller (the one with the tension clutch) into alignment with
hole on opposite end of panel. Insert bolt and tighten just enough to hold securley in place.
3. Working from the front of the frame, repeat above step to attach IDLE ROLLER (F) in place with the spring loaded end on your
left as you are facing the front of the machine. (Standing in front of the frame, both spring-loaded ends will be on your left.).
4. Tighten all bolts securely.
Idle Rollers pass
behind machine arm
Machine arm
F
E
Attaching the Top Feeder and Bottom Feeder Rollers (H & I) to Frame
The TOP FEEDER ROLLER holds your rolled up quilt top. The BOTTOM FEEDER ROLLER holds
the rolled up quilt backing fabric. Each roller has a spring-loaded end and one end that
contains a cap with a threaded hole and tension clutch.
1. Referring to the photo and diagram, working from the front of the frame, attach the BOTTOM
FEEDER ROLLER (I) to frame by rst holding the spring loaded end in position on the side panel
to your left. Insert bolt into hole from outside frame and tighten just enough to hold in place
securely. Bring the opposite end of roller (the one with the tension clutch) into alignment with
hole on opposite end of panel. Insert bolt and tighten just enough to hold securley in place.
2. Working from the front of the frame, repeat above step to attach TOP FEEDER ROLLER (H) in
place with the spring loaded end on your left as you are facing the front of the machine.
3. Tighten all bolts securely.
Make sure all bolts are tightened securely and your machine moves easily from side to side and
front to back before attempting to run your machine. For smoothest operation, the machine and
frame must be level. It is now time to go over the machine operation and care.
- 3 -
Mount the Kwik Spin
as shown onto the
right hand rear of the
machine as pictured.
Attaching
Kwik Spin
Thread
Caddy
Now that you have assembled the frame, mounted and set up your machine, it is now
time to ready your machine for you rst project. But rst, again go over all of the nuts,
bolts and screws to make sure everything is tight and secure. Check to make sure all
electronics (and your machine) are plugged in. When you have your machne in place,
you may want to remove the wheels and attach the feet. Your machine will be more
steady without the wheels, mounting them again for ease in moving the machine
in the future should it me necessary.
Remeber practice, practice, practice. We suggest starting with a practice project before
starting on an “heirloom” quilt. The more you use your machine, the more familiar you
will become with your machine and its controls. There are also several tutorials, DVD’s
and books available to help you along the way!
- 4 -
Note: Although we have included some Long Arm Basics information in the manual, if you have not
used a long arm before, we highly recommend one of the many available books, videos, or classes.
You will want to learn rst the basics and then some of the techniques to get that professional look.
This will eliminate many of the frustrations that long arm quilters associate with getting started.
Please Note: At times we may make a few changes or upgrades to our frame, machine
or electronics. For this reason some photos may dier slightly from your machine or frame.
If you have any questions, please call:
850-433-1414
Please visit www.martellinotions.com for
additional videos on the Bella Prima Longarm.
Bella Prima Longarm Quilting Machine
User Manual
- 5 -
Attaching the Presser Foot and Needle
Attaching and removing the presser foot and needle on your longarm machine are
similar to doing the same on a regular sewing machine.
Loosen the screws to remove the needle or presser foot. Tighten screws to secure.
When properly installed, the eye of the needle will be facing you. If you are unsure
run your thumb nail down the sides of the needle. You will feel a groove in the
needle face. Install the needle so the groove is facing forward. When insering the
needle into the needle clamp, push it up as far as it will go and tighten the needle
clamp screw rmly. The needle will be threaded from this direction.
We are sure you are anxious to begin your rst project, but rst, again go over all of the nuts, bolts and screws
used in assembling the frame and mounting your machine to make sure everything is tight and secure.
Check to make sure all electronics (and your machine) are plugged in.
Threading the Machine
Additional “Threading” Views and steps can be seen later in manual
1. Thread the outside guide
nearest to the spool
2. Continue threading
through the next guide
3. Continue threading through
the next guide - (top hole)
6. Thread
through two
guides on right
side of machine
5. •Wrap thread around
tensioner TWICE
• Then thread on top of
the tension spring
• Then thread under the
thread guide
• Then thread through
the take up arm
4. •Thread the top hole.
•Put thread in pre-tensioner
across the top and then
through bottom hole
7. •Thread
guide on
needle bar
housing
8. •Thread hole
on needle bar
- 6 -
By turning this knob;
located on the top of
your machine; you will
be able to manually
raise or lower the needle.
Manually raising & lowering the needle
This adjusts the
presser foot height
Removing the Bobbin and Bobbin Case
Reaching under the machine, with your thumb and forenger grasp the lever on the bobbin case. Left the lever and pull out to
remove bobbin case.
Reinsert bobbin and case into machine. Rotate the bobbin case until you will hear a light popping sound and you will feel the
case snap into position. Lower the needle until the bobbin thread has been grasp and brought to the top.
Electric Leg Lift Operation
Our heavy-duty leg lifts allow you to raise of lower your
machine to the most comfortable height for YOU. You
may now sit or stand for hours of tire-free
quilting. Raise or lower your machine at the press of a
button.
IMPORTANT: Whenever raising or lowering your
frame, be sure to loosen the four knobs located
on the outside of each side panel. Adjust your
machine to the desired height and retighten knobs.
ELECTRONICS
Remote Control for
Overhead Lighting System
Touch Screen, Handlebar Controls
Left Handlebar (Red) Button
Right Handlebar (Red) Button
Touch Screen
- 7-
- 8-
2 3 4
9
8
1
10
11
12
13
1. Machine ready
2. DO NOT USE - Leave in hand position.
3. Set sewing speed
4. Shows Stitches sewn
5. Reset to zero for stitches sewn
6. ---
7. Used for dealers and mechanic only
8. Cycle button for pulling up bobbin thread
9. Used for setting timing - must push threading rst. Use in manual mode.
10. Shows machine running
11. Shows machine stopped
12. Used when threading needle. Disables buttons so machine won’t accidentally run.
Needle will move to up position.
13. Set needle position up or down when machine stops.
L Button - Same as button on Left Handle - Needle up or down, decreases speed in manual mode.
R Button - Same as button on Right Handle - Start or Stop, increases speed in manual mode.
Home Button - Sets motor to home position - push home button after machine rst starts up.
Also used if you use the Hand Wheel to move needle, will put the motor back in home position
“Manu” Button - Shows you are in manual mode. Push to go to Stitch Regulation.
FIGURE 1
6
5
7
- 9 -
FIGURE 2
2 3 4
9 8
6
1
10
11
12
13
1. Machine ready
2. Machine speed when running, display only
3. Set stitches per inch (1-15 ); 8 is the default S.P.I.
4. Number of stitches sewn
5. Reset to zero for stitches sewn
6. ---
7. Used for dealers and mechanic only
8. Cycle button for pulling up bobbin thread
9. Used for setting timing - use in manual mode
10. Shows machine running
11. Shows machine stopped
12. Used when threading needle. Disables buttons so machine won’t accidentally run.
Needle will move to up position.
13. Set needle position up or down when machine stops.
L Button - Same as button on Left Handle - Needle up or down in S.R. mode
R Button - Same as button on Right Handle - Start or Stop in S.R. mode
Home Button -
Sets motor to home position - push home button after machine rst starts up.
Also used if you use the Hand Wheel to move needle, will put the motor back in home position
S.R. Button - Shows you are in Stitch Regulation mode. Push to go to manual mode.
5
7
- 10 -
- 11 -
Loading Your Quilt
- 12 -
TIPS & TROUBLESHOOTING
• Achieving good stitch quality
Understanding how your long arm machine makes a stitch will help you make the proper
adjustments to make the perfect stitch. e technique all long arm machines use to make
a stitch is dierent than the home sewing machine. e home sewing machine is designed to
press together two layers of fabric and sew while the fabric is held link place by the presser foot.
Long arm machines are designed to press and sew multiple layers together while the machine
is moving. e dierence is that there is practically no needle deection on a standard sewing
machine and a large amount of needle deection on the long arm. e higher the tension,
the more the needle will deect.
Good stitches will interlock in the batting between the quilt top and backing. In real life,
this goal is rarely achieved. For this reason you need to be aware that you will have “pokies”
if you use dierent colors of thread on top and in the bobbin. Pokies are where you can see tiny
dots of the contrasting thread where the bobbin catches the top thread. If there is slightly more
tension on the top than on the bottom, then you will see the pokies on the top side of the quilt.
If the greater tension is on the bobbin, then you will see the Pokies on the back of the quilt.
If the pokies are objectionable to you, use the same color thread on both top and bottom.
TIP: A general rule of thumb is that if the stitch looks bad on the top it is the bottom
tension. If the stitch looks bad on the bottom it is the upper tension. e upper and lower
threads play tug of war with each other.
• Tension
You need correct tension on the top and bottom threads, but you must also have correct
tension on the quilt held between the rails. You should have a small amount of “sag” in your
fabric. is allows enough movement of your quilt layers for the needle to penetrate and
make good stitches.
Before you start making adjustments to your machine ask yourself, “What changed?”
If your machine was stitching great and all of a sudden it has loopies on the back or puckers,
“What changed?” Did you just change the bobbin? Did you recently change the needle?
Did you just roll the quilt?
Look at your bobbin, a sloppy wound bobbin will not create a good stitch. Make sure that
the threads on the bobbin are snug and evenly wound. Check to see if there is a piece of lint
in the bobbin case.
- 13 -
Tension Trouble Shooting Checklist
• Is the presser foot lever down?
• Have I oiled my machine?
• Is the quilt too tight on the frame?
• Is the thread jumped out of the tension discs?
• Check your threading. Has anything been missed or has the thread ipped itself
around something?
• Is the hopping foot too high or too low?
• Do you need the change your needle?
• Is your needle in properly?
Top Thread Breaking
• Check that your thread is coming o the spool freely and that it is threaded through
the threadguide directly above the spool of thread
• Check to see if the thread has looped itself around the spool pin.
• Check to see if the needle is in correctly, with the scarf facing the back of the machine.
• Have you recently changed the needle? Is it as high as it will go in the needle bar?
Eyelashes
• Eyelashes on the back of the quilt can be caused by too little top tension.
Turn the thread tension clockwise 2 clicks
• Repeat until stitch quality is good. Remember the upper and lower thread play tug
of war with each other.
Loose Top Stitch
• Is the presser foot lever down?
• Is the bobbin thread inserted in the slot of the bobbin case?
• Adjust the tension knob 2 clicks. Repeat until stitch quality is good.
Quilt Top Puckers
• Is your backing fabric stretched too tight? While the backing fabric needs to lie at and without
wrinkles, stretching it too tight can make the quilt top pucker when you release the backing fabric.
• e top tension may be too tight. Adjust the tension knob 2 clicks. Repeat until stitch quality is good.
Skipped Stitches
• In skipped stitches, the needle penetrates the fabric, but does not form a stitch.
• Check to see that your machine is threaded correctly. Look at the check spring. Does the
thread lay in the check spring? When properly threaded the check spring will move up
and down as the machine is stitching and the thread is owing freely.
• Check the needle. Be sure it is all the way up into the sha and the scarf is toward the back.
If it has been used for more than 8 hours, replace the needle.
• Check that your fabric is not rolled too tight on the rails. You need a small amount of “sag”
in your fabric.
• Check that the height of your foot is set correctly.
Long Stitches
• Long stitches are dierent then skipped stitches. With long stitches the needle is not penetrat-
ing the fabric, but rather traveling too far before the needle goes down again, forming a stitch.
• In regulated mode, this is almost always a problem with the encoders. Check both encoders
sure they are securely plugged into the back of the machine
• Make sure you have oiled your machine recently.
• In manual mode, you may need to either increase the speed on the Home screen or drive the
machine slower.
Cannot Turn Hand Wheel
No matter how hard you try to keep the bobbin area free of loose threads and lint, you may
get a jam. It is usually caused from a piece of thread that is caught in the bobbin area.
1. Turn the power o.
2. Remove the bobbin case.
3. Facing the hand wheel, rotate the hand wheel clockwise to back the jam out of the bobbin
race. (is may take some work to get it worked free.)
4. Normally when the thread is dislodged you will be able to make a full rotation with the
hand wheel.
5. Clean the bobbin area with a so brush.
- 14 -
Correcting Common Issues
Skipped Stitches Corrective Measure
• e needle is damaged, dull, bent,
or installed improperly
• Needle has not been positioned properly
• Replace the needle oen, normally once
or twice per day for continuous quilting or
at least once per quilt. Recommended needle
is GROZ-Beckert 110/18
• Always change the needle if the needle
has struck any hard object such as a straight
pin, etc. e tip of the needle can become
damaged or burred, resulting in fabric
damage as well as skipped stitches,
thread breakage or shredding.
• Always change the needle if it has been
hit, bumped or pulled o center while
maneuvering the machine about the quilt.
A slightly bent needle can be a major cause
of skipped stitches.
• Position the needle properly to the needle
bar. Inspect the position of the needle to
make sure the needle is at the 6 o’clock po-
sition. If you stand directly in front of the
needle (facing the bobbin case side of the
machine), you will see the entire needle eye
directly facing you. is is 6 o’clock position
• Make sure (1) the needle is installed all the
way into the needle bare to the needle stop
hole in the needle bar, (2) the long groove in
the needle is toward the front (bobbin case
side), and (3) the scarf/scooped out part of
the needle is toward the handwheel. e
needle can sometimes be rotated to 5 o’clock
(slightly right) or 7 o’clock (slightly le) in
order to adjust for a more positive thread
loop pickup by the hook point
- 15 -
Correcting Common Issues
Skipped Stitches Corrective Measure
• read tension too tight
• e needle is bent or not installed properly
• Tension is not balanced
• e needle hits the needle plate
• Improper threading
• Loosen top tension. Re-check top and
bobbin tension
• Replace or correctly change the needle.
Make sure that the needle is pushed up into
the needle bar clamp until it can go no
farther (visually check that it is up to the
top of the stop/sight hole above the needle
bar clamp screw). Failure to do so can cause
damage in the bobbin area and throat plate.
• Balance the tension of the needle thread
aer ensuring the bobbin tension is adjusted
correctly
• Replace needle with a new one.
• Inspect that the thread take-up lever,
thread stirrup or tension spring are all
threaded correctly.
The Needle Breaks Corrective Measure
Stitches are Puckered Corrective Measure
- 16 -
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