Lena 57' Cruiser Stern Narrowboat User manual

Brand: Lena

Model: 57' Cruiser Stern Narrowboat

Category: Camping, tourism & outdoor

Type: User manual

Lena

www.lena.bz

57’ Cruiser Stern Narrowboat

Users Guide

Lena

www.lena . bz

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Contents

57’ Cruiser Stern Narrowboat .................................................................................................. 1

General ................................................................................................................................................ 5

STEERING ......................................................................................................................................... 5

ENGINES .......................................................................................................................................... 6

ON THE MOVE ................................................................................................................................. 6

MOORING........................................................................................................................................ 7

Mooring Up ..................................................................................................................................... 8

A couple of basic knots ....................................................................................................................... 8

The essential narrowboat knots ..................................................................................................... 9

Essential knot number two ............................................................................................................. 9

How do locks work? http://canalrivertrust.org.uk ............................................................................... 11

What is a lock? .............................................................................................................................. 11

What is a flight of locks? ............................................................................................................... 11

What is a manned lock? ................................................................................................................ 11

How do you work a lock? .............................................................................................................. 11

Basic principles – things to remember .......................................................................................... 12

How long does it take? .................................................................................................................. 12

Engine Control ................................................................................................................................... 13

Starting the Engine ........................................................................................................................ 13

Stopping The Engine ..................................................................................................................... 13

Forwards, Reverse & Speed Control ................................................................................................. 13

Engine revs - Speed ....................................................................................................................... 13

Passing other boats ........................................................................................................................... 14

Oncoming boat .............................................................................................................................. 14

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Overtaking another boat ............................................................................................................... 14

Other controls on the Engine Panel .................................................................................................. 14

Front Searchlight ........................................................................................................................... 14

Horn .............................................................................................................................................. 14

Bilge Pump .................................................................................................................................... 14

Electrics ............................................................................................................................................. 15

A.C. Mains 230v Power ................................................................................................................. 15

Shore Power ...................................................................................................................................... 16

D.C. Systems ...................................................................................................................................... 17

Batteries ........................................................................................................................................ 17

D.C. distribution ............................................................................................................................ 18

Heating .............................................................................................................................................. 19

Solid Fuel Stove ............................................................................................................................. 21

Lighting the fire ............................................................................................................................. 21

Bathroom Stuff .................................................................................................................................. 22

Shower .......................................................................................................................................... 22

W.C. (Toilet) .................................................................................................................................. 22

Pump Out – Holding tank .................................................................................................................. 23

Towel rail ....................................................................................................................................... 24

Vanity unit ..................................................................................................................................... 24

Kitchen (galley).................................................................................................................................. 25

Electrical Appliances ..................................................................................................................... 25

Water ............................................................................................................................................ 25

Drinking water ............................................................................................................................... 25

Drain .............................................................................................................................................. 25

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Rubbish ............................................................................................................................................. 25

Beds ................................................................................................................................................... 26

Master Bed .................................................................................................................................... 26

Dinette Bed ................................................................................................................................... 26

Transvers Bed ................................................................................................................................ 26

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General

Don’t worry if you’ve never been on a canal boat before, you don’t need a licence, the basic skills are

easy to pick up and there is no test to pass. If you are hiring for the first time, most companies will

give you training on how to steer your boat, daily checks, operating locks and safety instructions

before you set out on your own. I’m a little bit more

You’ll also find that the controls of a boat are very simple to operate: a throttle to apply power in

forward or reverse and a tiller to steer left and right.

If In Doubt Go Slowly !!

STEERING

River cruisers and Dutch barges are relatively straightforward to

steer and usually have wheel steering which will be reassuringly

familiar to car drivers, but you do have to bear in mind that boats

on the water react more slowly than cars do on the road, so you

need to think ahead more on the water – and they can take

longer to stop, too!

Narrowboats like Lena, are a little different because they are

steered from the rear by a tiller. Unlike a car’s steering wheel the

tiller operates in the opposite direction to the way you want to

go; push it to the right to make the boat swing to the left and vice

versa – this might sound confusing at first but don’t worry, you

soon get the hang of it.

The easy way to remember is that pushing the tiller to one side

or the other takes the bum end (stern) of the boat the same way. Push to right & the bum goes right,

left and it goes left. After a while the front end (bow) starts to go the other way. In fact that is

exactly what happens, because a narrowboat does not have a fulcrum (or point about which it

turns).

Many boats, especially narrowboats, take a little while to respond to a steering input and keep

swinging due to their momentum even when the wheel or tiller has been moved back to the centre,

so it’s best at first to make small steering inputs and learn to anticipate the boat’s movement – or

lack of it – but again that comes very quickly.

If a particular manoeuvre goes wrong don’t panic, just straighten the boat up, have a quiet rethink

and try again. Don’t worry, though, again it comes quite naturally with a little practise.

The Hull is made of 10mm think steel, you can’t do much hard to Lena, but you might do a little

damage to a ‘plastic’ boat (GRP). So try to miss them.

Steering is easy if the wind is low. If the wind gets up it can be hell.

Figure 1 - Tiller

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If the canal is shallow, use a low speed. This has two advantages, it puts more water under the hull &

if you go aground you are not stuck so hard.

ENGINES

Most boats are powered by a diesel engine controlled by a single lever

that alters engine speed and a lever or button that selects forward,

neutral and reverse; again, it’s very simple to use; select forward gear and

then throttle forwards to go faster, much like an accelerator on a car, and

backwards to slow down, and select reverse gear when you want to go

backwards.

Most canals and many rivers have a speed limit of 4 mph, but people

generally travel at 3 mph which is about an average walking pace – after

all, why hurry, you’re out on the waterways to enjoy yourself! Although

boats don’t have speedometers, you must observe the speed limit,

though, because the wash from a boat destroys the banks and silts up the

canal; not only that, but too much wash will bump other boats around

and make you most unpopular – especially if you spill someone’s freshly

poured G&T! So do leave plenty of space and slow down when you pass moored boats.

ON THE MOVE

As you glide gently along the canal you’ll find your boat will steer more

easily and travel more quietly in the deeper water which is usually in the

centre, so if there are no other boats coming towards you, that’s the

place to be. When it comes to bends, the deeper water tends to be on the

outer side of a bend, so try to avoid cutting across the shallower corners.

You’ll also find that due to water movements and canal bed shapes, a

boat will not always keep going in a straight line even when the wheel or

tiller is central and you need to make frequent small steering corrections

to keep going straight; a tip here is to stand right on the centreline of the

boat if you can and use the point of the bow as a ‘sight’ to help you aim.

If you should need to overtake another boat, pass it on the right-hand

side just as you would on the road, and if another boat is coming up

behind you it’s only polite to see if they want to come past. If so, move

over to the side and slow right down to let them through.

If you need to turn around and the canal is narrower than your boat, there are turning places every

few miles, known as ‘winding holes’ (pronounced ‘wind’ as in weather), where you can turn on a

sixpence.

Figure 2 - Morse engine

control

Figure 3 - Centre Line

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MOORING

You can stop for the night almost anywhere along the canal bank (towpaths are owned by the

navigation authority, usually Canals & river Trust), except where prohibited by signs or where it is

unsafe, such as on a bend or close to a lock. Riverbanks, however, are private property, so mooring,

except in designated spots provided by the navigation authority or a boating association, is at the

discretion of the landowner. Local farmers are often obliging with many having ‘honesty box’ oil

drums buried in their field. Respect their property and don’t leave litter, especially anything that

could harm animals – and please do respect the

honesty box!

To moor, slow down, aim towards the bank at

about 30 degrees and as you come close, say

five or six feet, steer gently away so that the

boat continues approaching the bank but begins

to straighten up, then engage reverse gear to

slow you down and with luck and practice the

boat will come to a stop parallel with the bank

and close enough for you to hop ashore and tie

up securely to the mooring pins you’ll be

carrying.

Some boaters worry about mooring in urban

areas though often these are safer (if noisier!) than more suburban locations. If in doubt, use official

visitor moorings, ask the advice of nearby boaters or speak to a local BW office. For security tie the

mooring lines on the boat – some boaters carry chains and locks for secure mooring in ‘dodgy’ spots.

If you are mooring on a busy river or canal, you can use additional ‘springing’ lines to hold the boat

steady and stop it moving with any turbulence. Run one forwards from the stern and another back

from the bow, crossing them over before tying off against a mooring ring or spike.

While these are just a few pointers to show how easy boating is, there are a number of companies

who offer much more detailed one- or two-day training courses if you want to get even more out of

your boating.

Whilst crusing your canal boat there will come a time that you will need to moor up to have a rest,

to go back to your home moorings or to sleep overnight. It is important to make sure that you have

the right equipment, know where you can moor and also how to move your boat to the side of the

canal/river to safely 'park' your boat.

So what equipment will I need to moor a narrowboat?

The items below are essential equipment to moor a canal boat.

1. Mooring pegs/pins (to help secure the rope - this look just like a pin (hence the name!)).

2. Lump Hammer (to hammer the mooring pegs/pins in to the ground).

3. Mooring Hook (looks like a large safety pin).

4. Mooring Rope (to enable the second crew member to help pull the boat to the side of the

canal/river).

Figure 4 - Bow & Stern Moorings

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Mooring Up

It is much easier to moor if you have at least two people on board (one

to direct the boat and the other to pull the boat into the side with a

centre rope). If you can edge slowly to the side of the canal on your boat

close enough for the second member of the boat crew to get off with

the centre rope and pull the narrowboat to the side.

Once the second crew member has control of the canal boat then it is

time to tie the boat to the waters edge. The aim when mooring up your

boat is to make sure that the boat is secure and moves as little as

possible. The ropes must be firm and a rope tied up at least either end of

the boat (perhaps also having a centre rope tied up on longer boats - this

should be used at the last resort). Ideally the moorings should be a

yard or two either side of the boat.

The boat should then be secured by tight

ropework by using a mooring pin, hook , ring

or a bollard (see the image of a bollard

below). A mooring pin is generally used in

the countryside where there are no other

alternative. They need to be pushed into the

ground at an angle using a lump hammer.

A hook or a bollard is generally used when

mooring up near a lock.

Piling hook & Chains

Used when there are horizontal metal pilings

next to your mooring. You just hook the curved

ends over the pilings with the ring uppermost

then tie off on the ring. Often piling hooks won’t

fit onto the piling, in which case use the chains.

They are more difficult to fit, but give excellent mooring security. Drop the

smaller loop end through the horizontal pile, then pull it up and pass

through the larger ring, then pass mooring rope through the larger ring. Try

not to drop them in the canal.

A couple of basic knots

Taken from Paul Sm i t h ’s website www. ht t p: //livingona narrowboat.co . u k

To knot or not to knot… that is the question! Do you know the difference between an albright and a

woggle or an alpine butterfly and a west country whipping? Probably not. The good news is that you

don’t need to. As a traveller of the inland waterways there are really only two knots you need to

know, but you really do need to know them. Let me give you an example of what can happen when

you don’t.

Figure 6 - Mooring Bollard

(Usually only for temporary moorings but very

safe)

Figure 5 - Mooring Ring

(excellent mooring, very safe)

Figure 8 - Piling Hook

(For use on steel pilling, very safe)

Figure 7 - Mooring Pins

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When I (that’s Paul) was seventeen (I know, I must have a very good memory – three male friends

and I drove to somewhere near Great Yarmouth to the start of our week long narrowboat holiday.

After half and hour’s instruction we were allowed out on the Norfolk broads on our own.

By five o’clock we thought we had travelled far enough so “parked” our new toy along a canal bank

near a likely looking pub. Six hours later and a little the worse for wear, we staggered through the

driving rain through the pub garden back to where we were sure the boat was moored.

It wasn’t there!

Of course we weren’t thinking straight so after a brief panic and a longer shouting match we raced

up and down the bank searching for our new home. After ten minutes we found the boat. Actually

“found the boat” isn’t quite right. We hadn’t lost it at all. The idiot responsible for tying the stern

mooring line (me) hadn’t done a very good job so the boat had swung one hundred and eighty

degrees downstream and had come to rest alongside another

narrowboat. Of course it was very difficult to see it in the driving

rain.

The essential narrowboat knots

If I had known either of the two most useful narrowboat knots we

would have been spared the heartache all those years ago. Of

course, my experience resulted in nothing more that a minor

irritation but there have been countless cases of boats drifting away

from their moorings because of poor knot tying… sometimes with

disastrous consequences. Fortunately for you, it’s now very easy to

learn these knots.

The two essential narrowboat knots are “the round turn and two

half hitches” and “the cleat hitch”.

The round turn & two half hitches is for attaching your mooring rope

to a post or a ring or pin.

The cleat hitch. The cleat hitch, strangely enough, secures a rope to a cleat. As you will

invariably tie your narrowboat to or from a post, cleat or

mooring ring these two knots will keep you out of trouble.

Essential knot number two

You can probably work out how to tie the knots just by

looking at the diagrams but, to make life even easier for you,

there’s a marvelous website which demonstrates how to tie

every knot you’ve ever heard of . In fact, there are 120 knots

listed. All of them are animated and very clear and easy to

understand. It’s a great site… and it’s free.

http://www.animatedknots.com then go to boating.

Figure 9 - Round turn & two half hitches

Figure 10 - the Cleat Hitch

(as needed on the bow of Lena)

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Steering In Reverse

Unless you are adventurous, don’t … It takes lots of experience and practise, but basically heres

what you do. Forget about steering in reverse, but think about how the boat is moving and where it

has got to go. So, start off forwards and use the tiller to start the boat swinging in the opposite

direction to where you want to go (low speed for this). Put it in reverse and you will go backwards

with the boat still swinging from the initial forward movement. As the swing stops, use bursts of

forward to put the swing back on. Of course, this fine on a calm day, but with a side wind it can be a

nightmare. So just like the working boaters, use the wind to your advantage if you can to 'blow' the

boat in the right direction. If you can't, I'm afraid its a line to the bank and muscle power. In my

experience, if you have not conned a boat before and haven't been brought up with it (like I have)

you will find the best steersmen are children about 12 years old. It never ceases to amaze me how

Dads on hire boats take no notice of their kids who have not been brainwashed by driving a car. I

saw a bloke once try to get his boat off a lee bank. His son kept telling what to do, but he wouldn't

listen. After half an hour he let his son have a go...and he did it first time!.

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How do locks work?

http://canalrivertrust.org.uk

What is a lock?

Locks are used to lift or lower boats from one level to another. They are found on almost all canals

and rivers.

A lock is a section of canal or river that is closed off by gates which control the water level so that

boats can be raised or lowered as they pass through it.

What is a flight of locks?

A flight of locks (or lock flight) resembles a flight of stairs – it consists of a number of locks (or steps)

one after another. Sometimes there is a stretch of canal between one lock and the next, and

sometimes the locks are so close together that the top gates of one and the bottom gates of the

next are one and the same – this is called a staircase flight.

What is a manned lock?

Many of the busier locks on the Canal & River Trust's navigations have locks which are manned and

operated for you during the summer months.

How do you work a lock?

Don’t worry if you are about to go on your first boating holiday and have no idea how to operate a

lock, I’ll talk you thorugh it before you set off. Once you get to grips with them, locks are all part of

the fun of a canal holiday – and a most efficient form of exercise!

Locks have two sets of gates (top and bottom) and a chamber which your boat enters into. Crucially,

locks also have openings (or sluice gates) at the top and bottom and it is by opening these that water

is allowed into and out of the chamber to raise or lower the water level - and hence the boat. You

and your crew will open and close the paddles using a lock handle (or windlass) which you will carry

with you on your cruise.

Going up

1. If the lock is not empty open the paddles/sluices in the bottom gate to let the water out of

the lock

2. Once the water level inside the lock is the same as the water level in the canal, open the

bottom gates and take the boat in

3. Remember to close the gate behind the boat

4. Open the sluice gate to allow the water to flow from the top pound into the lock

5. The boat will rise as the lock fills

6. Once the water level inside the lock is the same as the water level ahead in the canal, open

the top gates and take the boat out

7. Remember to close both the sluice gate and the lock gate behind you to preserve water.

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Going down

1. If the lock is not full open the paddles/sluices in the top gate to allow the water into the lock

from the top pound.

2. Once the water level inside the lock is the same as the water level in the canal, open the lock

gate and take the boat into the lock. Remember to close the gate behind the boat

3. Open the sluice gate to allow the water to flow out of the lock

4. The boat will lower as the water level in the lock falls

5. Once the water level inside the lock is the same as the water level ahead in the canal, open

the bottom gates and take the boat out.

6. Remember to close both the sluice gate and the lock gate behind you to preserve water

Basic principles – things to remember

Water always flows downhill and lock gates are closed against the pressure of this water. The lock

gates will not open until the water pressure (level) is equal on both sides.

How long does it take?

Passing through a lock will generally take from 10 to 20 minutes, depending how big the lock is and

whether or not it was originally set in favour of the boat (it is always pleasing to meet another boat

coming towards you on the approach to a lock – this boat will have just exited the lock on your level

and therefore the lock will be set for you).

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Engine Control

Starting the Engine

To start the engine insert the key into the ignition. Turn

right to position 1. At this point the Oil Pressure Alarm

will sound. Ignore this & turn on to the nest position

(pre-heat). Hold the key in this position (against a small

spring) for 10 seconds (less if the engine is still warm).

The Yellow Pre-Heat light will glow. After 10 seconds

advance the key to the start position. The Engine will

start very easily. If it fails to start within a few

revolutions, repeat the whole operation from the start.

When the engine fires, release the key & it will return to the first position.

Stopping The Engine

This is not quite as simple as it sounds. But not complicated. All you have to do is press the ‘STOP’

button & hold it until the engine stops. Then turn the key to ‘O’ and remove the key.

If you remove the key without stopping the engine, it will just continue to run.

Forwards, Reverse & Speed Control

This is done with the control lever called a ‘Morse’. It’s simple. Push it

forwards to go forward & back to go back.

ALLWAYS PAUSE IN NEUTRAL FOR A MOMENT WHEN CHANGING

DIRECTION

In the centre of the lever pivot is a black button. This is a clutch it

disengages the propeller if you ever need to run the engine without the

propeller turning.

Engine revs - Speed

The large dial on the consul shows engine revs. There is no speedometer on a narrowboat.

Tick-over is just below 1,000 revs. Full speed on a small canal is around 1,200 - 1,800 revs, on a river

or wide canal about 2,200 is flat out ! On a small or shallow canal 1,200 revs is ample.

Look at the wash on the banks, try not to create wash, it destroys the banks & creates shallows.

Remember your there to relax.

ALWAYS SLOW DOWN WHEN PASSING MOORED BOATS.

Slow down to tick-over when passing moored boats. The wash from passing boats creates lots of

problems; including pulling out mooring pins, not to mention spilt gin & tonic.

Figure 12 - Morse Engine control

Figure 11 - Engine Control Panel

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Passing other boats

Oncoming boat

This is the opposite of in the car, PASS TO THE RIGHT.

Beware the bow wave & stern hollow in the water as the boat passes.

Slow Down is my advice, but not too slow.

Overtaking another boat

This doesn’t happen often, you normally just have to sit in behind another boat in front. But good

etiquette should make the slower boat pull in and allow you to pass. In this case its

Other controls on the Engine Panel

From Left to Right

Front Searchlight

The left hand switch turns on the bow searchlight.

This is used in tunnels

Horn

Blow the horn to attract attention but also when entering a blind corner, narrow bridge or tunnel.

Bilge Pump

Normally this will be automatic but you can manually pump out the bilges.

Page | 15

Electrics

Lena is not on the national grid (unless you have shore power connected.

So you have to be a little bit carful with the use of power.

All the lighting is low power LED but even so it still uses power from the batteries.

A.C. Mains 230v Power

Power with Engine running

When the engine is running (even at low revs) there is loads of power available.

USING THE KETTLE, TOASTER, VACUUM, HAIR DRYER, CURLERS OR OTHER

LARGE LOAD MUST ONLY BE DONE WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING.

Inverter

The inverter converts the d.c. battery voltage (12v) to mains a.c.

voltage.

When the engine is running & you require 230v mains supply,

turn on the inverter. Switch the rocker switch to on, starts the inverter.

On the 230 Volt AC Distribution Panel the Inverter (2), green

light should glow. Turn the main control knob to ‘2’

(Inverter), The Power Available & Correct Polarity will now

glow (they are very dim & can only be seen in low light

levels).

That’s it, you now have 230v a.c. mains at all the sockets.

Bear in mind that the Inverter I have fitted at present is only

rated at 1,500Watts if you put the kettle & toaster or vacuum

on together it will trip the inverter.

The inverter uses power even when there is no load on the

a.c. system. So turn it off when not in use. Especially when the

main engine is not running.

The engine has twin 110A alternators with 3 stage controller, so it will run the inverter and still

charge the batteries under normal circumstances.

Increasing engine revs when stationary

If you are using a lot of a.c. power when the boat is not moving, it’s a good idea to increase the

engine revs with the clutch disengaged.

To disengage the clutch, press the button in the centre of the Morse control lever, and push the

lever forward until the revs are around 1200-1500.

Figure 13 - Inverter Remote

control Panel

Figure 14 - A.C. control Panel

(shown switched to the inverter)

Page | 16

Inverter Fault (trip)

If the inverter trips for overload or overheating reset it. The Inverter

is located in the cupboard at the foot of the master bed.

DO NOT LEAVE THE INVERTER ON WHEN THE ENGINE IS NOT RUNNING

The above is not strictly true, you can run the inverter for a while when the engine

is not running, but only if it has a light load (e.g. charging phones). And only if

battery capacity is greater than 80% (see battery capacity). Even then, not for long.

Otherwise it will drain the battery & that will damage the batteries.

Always turn the inverter off at night.

Shore Power

When in a marina or sometimes when mooring at private moorings, you might have the luxury of

shore power.

Take one or both of the blue power cables from under the stern

steps (there should be 2). Plug one end into the input plug at the

rear base of the engine consol.

The other end plugs into the supply.

Switch the A.C. control switch to position 1 ‘Landline’.

Remember to remove cable & pay for it when leaving.

There is also a 13A plug to shore cable adaptor, just in case you find a friendly native.

Figure 15 - Inverter in cupboard

Figure 16 - Shore Power Cable

Page | 17

D.C. Systems

Most of the equipment in the boat is d.c. powered directly from the 12v battery.

When the engine is running there is plenty of power available. When it’s not running it’s important

to conserve the battery power.

Batteries

IT IS IMPORTANT TO TRY NOT TO LET BATTERY CAPACITY FALL BELOW 60% OR 12.3V

Permanent damage can result if the batteries are over discharged. Especially if left in a discharged

state. The batteries are Very good quality & very expensive to replace. (around £120 each and there

are 4).

Lena has two sets of batteries.

Starter battery

The starter battery is only used to start the engine. It is very unlikely you will need to worry about

the starter battery.

If required you can view the starter battery voltage on the BM-2 battery monitor. To do so press the

V&A button twice. The Starter Battery will be displayed with the Letters ‘St’. open circuit

Table 1 - battery State of charge (open cct.)

State of

Charge

No load

voltage

100%

12.70+

75%

12.40

50%

12.20

25%

12.00

11.80

It is unlikely the starter battery will fall below 12.5v, if it does call me.

Page | 18

Leisure or service batteries

You do need to keep an eye on the Leisure batteries state of charge and voltage.

Service batteries – Engine running

When the engine is running or you are on shore power the batteries will be on charge. The voltage

will range from 13.6v – 14.5v depending on the state the charger is in. The Battery monitor will

display ‘CHARGE’. It will also display the charge current & the state of charge. The state of charge

will gradually climb during the day until it nears or reaches 100%.

Service batteries – Engine not running

When the engine is not running is the time to

keep an eye on the battery state of charge &

voltage.

If you want the inverter running (for light loads

only) keep it going BUT remember to turn it off

when not required.

Ideally leave the Inverter off when

the engine is off.

If you need lots of 230v power (Kettle, hair

dryer, Toaster, Vacuum etc. ) Start the engine.

At night check that the discharge current is below 5A.

With most of the lights off & the central heating off the current should be very low <2A.

D.C. distribution

When on the boat I normally turn on all the d.c.

circuit breakers (switches pushed to ‘reset’).

When I leave the boat for any long period I turn

all 12 circuit breakers Off.

If any of the Circuit Breakers Trip, call me.

Figure 17 - The Battery Monitor

Figure 18 - D.C. Distribution Circuit Breakers (switches)

Page | 19

Heating

Like a house Lena needs to heat both the interior & also water.

Unlike a house Lena can use the heat of the engine to heat the water.

Like a house Lena has a Central heating system (diesel fired).

Like a house Lena also has a multi fuel stove.

The engine (once running) actually heats the water in the Calorifier (hot water tank) quite quickly. So

in the summer you will not need to do anything about heating. If you have several showers & thhe

water runs cold, it will heat up again in an hour or so, just from the engine.

Diesel Heating Control

The Heating MUST be left in the OFF position when

leaving the boat for a long period. The heating system

uses a lot of electrical (battery) power as well as diesel.

The Heating can be set to OFF, ON, AUTO.

The long oval button at the bottom select On/Off/Auto. A

bar marker on the LCD indicates the heating selection.

In the photo you can see a black marker on the LCD above

the word ‘Auto’.

When the heating is being called for the Power light (red)

comes on.

To keep things simple I suggest you just use On / Off selection.

However for the adventurous the full instructions are below.

PROGRAMMING Heating Timer INSTRUCTIONS

1. To Set or Change the Day and Time:

First clear the entire memory by pressing the RESET key. Then hold down the CLOCK key while

pressing either the DAY, HOUR or MINUTE keys and continue pressing until the desired day or

number is shown. Then simply lift finger off the CLOCK key to set.

2. To Set Program (ON/OFF Times):

Press TIMER key once to enter into program mode. Display will show “1 ON - - : - -”

Press DAY key to choose any of 15 different day combinations (see table below) for the first ON time.

Note: days of the week having the same program should be copied by selecting the desired

combination of days.

Press the HOUR key and then the MINUTE key to select the desired first ON time.

Press TIMER key once. Display will show “1 OFF - - : - -”. Repeat previous step to select the desired

first OFF time.

Repeat the entire sequence to complete up to eight total ON/OFF times as desired.

Figure 19 - Heating Timer. (Shown in Auto position)

Page | 20

When programming is done, press the CLOCK key then the MANUAL key repeatedly until the

indicator bar is above the word “AUTO”

3. To Review Program Settings:

Press TIMER key repeatedly. When done, press CLOCK key to return to the time of day.

4. To Cancel/Change Part of the Program:

Press TIMER key repeatedly until the particular ON or OFF time appears, then repeatedly press the

DAY key until

the display shows “- - : - -”. Set new ON or OFF time.

(See: 2. To Set Program)

5. To Override Automatic Operation:

Press ON-AUTO-OFF key to move indicator bar to the desired ON or AUTO or OFF position.

Note: Timer will not resume automatic operation until indicator bar is repositioned above the word

AUTO.

TEMPORARY OVERRIDE: When the indicator bar is in the AUTO position, press the OVERRIDE key

which will turn the device ON or OFF and the timer will automatically resume the program on the next

cycle.

This electronic 7-day timer has the capacity to accept up to 16 set points (8 ON and 8 OFF times) and

can be set to repeat the daily program 15 different ways as the table below shows:

Noise from the webasto Diesel Heater

The Webasto diesel heating boiler does make a bit of noise which can be a bit disturbing at night.

Although it is located in the engine room, it can resonate through the boat.

There is a ticking noise from the fuel pump. The air & water pumps make a high spend fan type

noise.

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Lena 57' Cruiser Stern Narrowboat User manual

Brand: Lena

Model: 57' Cruiser Stern Narrowboat

Category: Camping, tourism & outdoor

Type: User manual

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Lena 57' Cruiser Stern Narrowboat User manual

Lena 57' Cruiser Stern Narrowboat User manual

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