Every 100 hours - Grease the drive assembly and swivel points.
The drive tube is filled with grease from the factory. In addition
to the above lubrication schedule, every two years or 200 hours,
remove the propeller and lower bearing cap. (Note: the bearing
cap is left-hand threaded. Turn clockwise to loosen.)
Grease once per year, no more. The grease fitting is located on
the drive tube. Remove the drive upper hex screw located on the
side of the casting. Grease the drive until grease comes out of
the screw hole. Run the engine one minute allowing excess
grease to ooze out. Replace the hex screw.
Throttle: Lubricate the throttle cable with WD-40 or a non-
freezing silicone available at most Napa stores. Coat the throttle
cable with grease near the engine and throttle ends twice per
season. This helps keep water out of the throttle cable and deters
freezing. Elevate the throttle cable on each end to keep water
from entering the cable and freezing. This is very important in
cold environments.
EngineOil and Filter: Change according to the engine
manufacture’s instructions. Change the oil and filter at the end of
the season. Acids accumulate in the oil and if not drained, can
cause internal pitting if left in the crankcase for extended periods.
Cover the engine when in storage. This keeps the engine, wiring
and mechanical parts dry, prevents oxidation and corrosion.
Salt Water Use: If you operate in salt water wash down the drive
and engine after every trip. The engine wiring is not designed to
be corrosion resistant. Corrosion caused by neglect or improper
wash-down after use in salt water is not covered by the frame
and engine warranty. While the engine is running, spray a small
amount of water on the face of the engine and intake screen
which in turn cleans the inside of the flywheel. A small amount of
water mist only.
Frame: Use soap and water to clean the frame. If you use a
high-pressure washer, do not direct the spray at any area
containing a seal such as the propeller, upper drive between
engine and outdrive, throttle or switches. The pressure will drive
dirt and grime into the seals and cause premature failure. Chips
and corrosion should be sanded and sealed with a good grade of
automotive paint.
Storage: At the end of the season, and for extended periods of
storage beyond one month, the fuel should be first treated with a
fuel stabilizer, then disconnect the fuel line and run the engine
out of fuel. The most common carburetor problems occur
because this simple procedure isn’t followed. Note. All engine
manufacturers do not warranty fuel related problems. Use a
good grade of fuel, 87 octane or better. Modded engines must
use 91 to 93 octane fuel.
Ensure the fuel tank cap vent-screw is open. If closed, pressure
can build which causes fuel to be pushed through the carburetor
into the crankcase. Over time, this dilutes the oil and can cause
engine failure. Do not add a fuel tank quick disconnect, which
can restrict fuel and cause poor top end performance. You may
add a primer bulb, but turn the ignition switch on before pumping
to avoid damaging the carburetor electronic shut off valve. Do
not over-pump. If you run out of fuel, fill the tank, remove the
fuel hose from the filter, close the fuel tank vent screw and press
on the fuel tank. When fuel fills the line, reconnect to the fuel
filter. This will push fuel from the tank and fill the hose and allow
you to start quickly.
Propeller Balance
The most common reason for drive failure is a damaged or
unbalanced propeller. Worn or bent props will decrease
performance and can also damage the drive unit. Replace the
propeller when it shows signs of damage or excessive wear.
Lack of power or reduced thrust in mud is an indication of prop
wear. We do not straighten or rebuild props. Some shops do, but
we suggest you use factory fresh new propellers.
Check the prop balance by first warming the engine, then run the
engine at full speed out of water and observe the skeg. Be safe
and careful. If it vibrates excessively, or turns into a blur, replace
the prop immediately to prevent drive and frame damage. If the
problem persists with a new propeller, you may have a bent drive
shaft. Do not run without further service. Check the shaft when
you remove the propeller. Again, be careful. Run the engine at an
idle checking the shaft for straightness. Observe the small gap
between the bearing cap and drive shaft. Watch the shaft as it
rotates. If the shaft is bent, it will wobble from side to side. If
bent, have the drive inspected by a service center and replaced
immediately. Note: Bent drive shafts are caused by severe
impacts and not covered by warranty.
Propeller Removal
The Sport, Lite and Hunter models have a slip on hex type
propeller held on by a 3/4” threaded nut. The Mini Lite 9, 14 and
18 horse have a screw on propeller. The Mini Lite 23 and 27
horse models have a slip on hex type propeller. Remove hex type
props by first removing the prop nut and then tap on the
propeller and slide off the shaft. The screw-on type Mini Lite
props are removed with a prop wrench and by holding the top
sprocket with a Mini prop removal tool available from Mud
Buddy. Simply call for the wrench and pay shipping both ways.
A tool deposit will refunded when returned.
Be careful when removing a worn prop, the edges can be very
sharp.
Clean the hex shaft or threads with a wire brush and coat with
marine grease or never seize prior to installing a new prop. If the
Sport hex prop or threaded Hyper prop are too tight to install,
lightly sand the shaft or run a threading tool over the threads.
Install the propeller nut carefully to 240 inch pounds.
3.