Munchkin Pathfinder Guest Artist Edition Rules

Brand: Munchkin

Model: Pathfinder Guest Artist Edition

Type: Rules

Conflicts Between

Cards and Rules

This rulesheet gives the general rules. Many cards add special rules,

so in most cases when the rulesheet disagrees with a card, follow the

card. However, ignore any card effect that might seem to contradict one

of the rules listed below unless the card

explicitly says it supersedes

that rule!

1. Nothing can reduce a player below Level 1, although card effects

might reduce a player’s or a monster’s combat strength (p. 3) below 1.

2. You go up a level after combat only if you

kill a monster.

3. You cannot collect rewards for defeating a monster (e.g., Treasure,

levels) in the middle of a combat. You must ﬁnish the ﬁght before

gaining any rewards.

4. You must

kill a monster to reach Level 10.

Any other disputes should be settled by loud arguments, with the

owner of the game having the last word. You could also read the

Munchkin FAQ and errata pages at munchkin.sjgames.com, or

start a discussion at forums.sjgames.com . . . unless it’s more fun

to argue.

Super-Sized Munchkin

Studies have shown that 8.4 out of 9.7 Munchkin players just can’t

get enough of the game. Here are some ideas to take your

Munchkin

games to new heights – or lows:

Combining different Munchkin sets. You can mix two (or

more) base sets and expansions together for a genre-crossing mega-

Munchkin adventure! Space plus Old West? Kung fu vampires?

No problem!

Expansions. These add still more monsters to kill, new Treasure

to loot, and sometimes entirely new kinds of cards. Ask for all the

Munchkin sets and expansions at your local game or comic store –

ﬁnd it using our Store Finder, gamerfinder.sjgames.com – but if

you don’t have a local store, we’ll be happy to sell them directly to you

at warehouse23.com.

Turn it up to EPIC! Playing to Level 10 just isn’t enough

for some people. To satisfy their insane cravings, we’ve created

Epic Munchkin, a new set of rules that gives all your Munchkin sets

that high-octane boost you need to make it up to Level 20! Look

for it at munchkin.sjgames.com/epic – it’s completely, absolutely

FREE!

All of the above!!!

Faster Play Rules

For a faster game, you can add a “phase 0” called Listen At The

Door. At the start of your turn before doing anything else, draw a

face-down Door card, which you may play or not. Then arrange cards

and Kick Open The Door normally. If you Loot The Room, draw a

face-down

Treasure, not a Door.

You can also allow shared victories – if a player reaches Level 10 in

a ﬁght where he had a helper, the helper also wins the game, no matter

what Level he is.

More Munchkin!

Visit munchkin.sjgames.com for news, errata, updates, Q&A,

and much more. To discuss

Munchkin with our staff and your fellow

munchkins, visit our forums at forums.sjgames.com. Check out

munchkin.sjgames.com/resources.html for reference cards,

playmats, and dozens of links.

Other ways to connect to the

Munchkin social network:

Twitter. Our Twitter feed often has Munchkin news (or bonus

rules!): twitter.com/SJGames.

Facebook. Connect with other fans on our pages for Munchkin

(facebook.com/sjgames.munchkin) and Steve Jackson Games

(facebook.com/sjgames).

The URL for this set is guestartists.sjgames.com/pathfinder-white.

Example of Combat,

With Numbers and Everything

Molly is playing a Level 4 Summoner with the Blazer

(+2) and the T-Bone Stake (+2), for a total combat strength

of 8. She Kicks Open The Door and finds the Slob Goblin.

Its Level is 1 and it doesn’t have any special bonuses, so she’s

winning, 8 to 1.

Molly: Eeeuw, gross. I’m killing this now.

Nick: Not so fast, there. It’s a Goblin, so I’m adding the Mob

Goblins to the ﬁght.

Nick doesn’t need to use a Wandering Monster card because

of the special Goblin rules. With the Level 10 Mob Goblins,

who get +3 against munchkins fighting alone, Molly is now

losing, 14 to 8.

Tim: What the heck, I hate missing a party. It’s the Shop Goblin!

The Level 2 Shop Goblin adds another 2 to the fight, so

Molly’s losing, 16 to 8.

Molly: I love you guys so much. Wait, did I say “love”?

Nick: Back at ya, babe. You want some help?

Molly: Yes. Lucky for me, my eidolon can provide it.

Molly uses her Eidolon ability from the Summoner class

and discards Lamashtu. Lamashtu gives 5 Treasures, so as an

Eidolon, it is worth +10 to the fight. Now Molly is winning,

18 to 16.

Molly: Either of you jokers planning to make this worse? (For

good measure, she holds a Door card up from her hand and glares at

Nick and Tim. It’s another Summoner card, but they don’t need to

know that . . .)

Nick: I don’t like the way you said that, so no, you’re good.

Tim: I’m just glad I don’t have to ﬁght Lamashtu.

Molly declares victory and claims her three levels (one

for each monster) and five Treasures (three for the Mob

Goblins and one each for the Slob Goblin and Shop Goblin).

She’s now Level 7 and has a lot of Treasure to work with . . .

which probably means Tim and Nick are going to work

together to bring her down at the first opportunity. And the

game goes on . . .

This special Guest Artist Edition of Munchkin Pathfinder

is one of a series of limited sets celebrating

Munchkin. This game

has been re-illustrated by Shane White, who has

worked on the

Pathfinder: Goblins! comic book,

among many others. We’ve placed the artist’s

signature where a set icon would normally go.

For more about all the Guest Artist Edition games, look at

guestartists.sjgames.com.

Running Away

If nobody will help you . . . or if somebody tries to help, and your fellow

party members interfere so the two of you

still cannot win . . . you must Run

Away. You don’t get any levels or Treasure. You don’t even get to Loot the

Room. And you don’t always escape unharmed . . .

Roll the die. You escape on a 5 or more. Some Class and Faction

abilities and some Treasures make it easier or harder to Run Away from all

monsters. And some monsters give you a bonus or penalty to your roll for

that monster only.

If you fail to Run Away from a monster, it does Bad Stuff to you, as

described on its card. This may vary from losing an Item, to losing one or

more levels, to Death (see below).

If you are ﬂeeing from multiple monsters, you roll separately to escape

each one, in any order you choose, and suffer Bad Stuff from each one that

catches you as soon as it catches you.

If two players are cooperating and still can’t defeat the monster(s), they

must both Run Away. They roll separately, and each player chooses in what

order to Run Away. The monster(s) CAN catch them both.

Once you have resolved all Run Away rolls, discard the monster(s).

Death

If you die, you lose all your stuff. You keep your Class(es), Faction(s),

and Level (and any Curses that were affecting you when you died) – your

new character will look just like your old one. If you have Double Life or

Super Munchkin, keep those as well. Once you

have died, you don’t have to Run Away from any

remaining monsters.

Looting The Body: Lay out your hand

beside the cards you had in play (making

sure not to include the cards

mentioned above). If you have

an Item carried by a Hireling

or attached to a Cheat!

card, separate those cards.

Starting with the player with

the highest Level, everyone

else chooses one card . . .

in case of ties in Level, roll

a die. If your corpse runs

out of cards, tough. Once

everyone gets one card, discard the rest. Looted cards go into players’ hands.

Dead characters cannot receive cards for any reason, not even Charity, and

cannot level up or win the game.

When the next player begins his turn, your new character appears and can

help others in combat with his Level and Class or Faction abilities . . . but you

have no cards, unless you receive Charity or gifts from other players.

your next turn, start by drawing four face-down cards from each deck

and playing any legal cards you want to, just as when you started the game.

Then take your turn normally.

Curses

If drawn face-up during the Kick Open The Door phase, Curse cards

apply to the person who drew them.

If acquired some other way, such as by Looting The Room, Curse cards

go into your hand and may be played on any player at any time. ANY time,

do you hear me? Reducing someone’s abilities just as he thinks he has killed

a monster is a lot of fun.

Usually, a Curse affects its victim immediately (if it can) and is then

discarded. However, some Curses give a penalty later in the game or have

a continuing effect. Keep these cards until you get rid of the Curse or the

penalty takes effect. (Curse cards you keep as a reminder may not be discarded

to power Class or Faction abilities. Nice try!)

Note: If someone plays a “your next combat” Curse on you while you are

in combat, it counts in

that combat! The same is true for a “your next turn”

Curse played during your turn.

If a Curse can apply to more than one Item, the victim decides which

Item is lost or Cursed.

If a Curse applies to something you don’t have, ignore it. For instance,

if you draw Lose Your Armor and you have no Armor, nothing happens;

discard the card. (Some Curses have alternate effects, though, so read

the card!)

There will be times when it will help you to play a Curse or Monster on

yourself, or to “help” another player in a way that costs him Treasure. This is

very munchkinly. Do it.

Combining With

Other

Sets

Munchkin Pathfinder uses the same classic card design found in the

original

Munchkin game, Munchkin Conan, Munchkin Legends, and

dozens of

Munchkin expansions and accessories. It is designed to blend

smoothly with these sets, keeping the following rules in mind:

Factions are not the same as Races (or

Conan Birthrights). You may

have a Class, a Race, a Birthright,

and a Faction. Munchkin

Pathfinder

characters are

assumed to be Human unless they

have some other nonhuman Race.

Any Undead monster may use the

Undead

Monsters rule (see p. 4), even if that rule is not

included in the rules for its set.

Any monster with “Goblin” in its name counts

as a Goblin for

Pathfinder purposes.

Of course, you can combine

Munchkin Pathfinder with any

Munchkin set you want! Use the

combining rules from

Munchkin 7 –

Cheat With Both Hands

as a guide.

(You can always download the most up-

to-date version of those rules at

munchkin.sjgames.com/rules.)

Developed by Andrew Hackard

•

Based on Steve Jackson’s Munchkin

•

Illustrated by Shane White

Card Back Illustrations: John Kovalic

•

President/Editor-in-Chief: Steve Jackson

•

Chief Executive Ofﬁcer: Philip Reed

•

Chief Operating Ofﬁcer: Samuel Mitschke

Executive Editor: Miranda Horner

•

Munchkin Line Editor: Andrew Hackard

•

Munchkin Editorial Assistant: Devin Lewis

•

Project Manager: Darryll Silva

Production Artists: Ben Williams, Veronica Leon, Travis Klein

•

Production Assistant: Bridget Westerman

•

Prepress Checker: Miranda Horner

Marketing Director: Rhea Friesen

•

Director of Sales: Ross Jepson

•

Research Assistance: Andrew Cummings

•

Operations Manager: Randy Scheunemann

Playtesters: David Arlund, Stacy Beckwith, Keith Blackard, Jimmie Bragdon, Eric Dow, Al Griego, Ashley Humphries, Jed Humphries, Richard Kerr,

Brian Kretzler, Franklin Lee, Nikola Loncar, Katy Thompson, Nicholas Vacek, and the Vogel family.

Research Assistance: Andrew Cummings.

Very special thanks to the Munchkin Brain Trust, who went well beyond the call in making this set the best it could be.

and the

Pathfinder logo are registered trademarks of Paizo, Inc. and are used under license. Munchkin

Pathfinder

Munchkin, the Munchkin characters, Warehouse 23, the pyramid logo, and the names of all products published by Steve Jackson Games Incorporated are trademarks or

munchkin.sjgames.com/pathﬁnder

In the Pathfinder Roleplaying Game, your heroes ﬁght on behalf of the

oppressed, slaying monsters most foul and facing terrors that turn their limbs

to ice.

And then they take their stuff and level up. Sound familiar? We thought

so, too.

This game includes 97 Door cards, 71 Treasure cards, 12 player standies

(six male, six female), one gameboard, one six-sided die, and these rules.

Three to six can play.

Setup

Each player takes two standies in the same color and chooses one to place

on the space marked “1” on the gameboard. The player’s starting sex matches

the standie chosen. The other standie goes in front of the player.

Divide the cards into the Door deck and the Treasure deck. Shufﬂe each

deck. Deal four cards from each deck to each player. Place the rest of the

cards in the appropriate spaces on the gameboard.

The numbered spaces on the board represent your Level (see p. 2). When

your character goes up (or, ugh, down) in Level, move your colored standie

accordingly. You can never go below Level 1, and once you kill a monster to

reach Level 10, you win! It’s perfectly ﬁne for more than one player to be at

the same Level.

Card Management

Keep discards for each deck in the matching “Discard” space on the

gameboard. You may not look through the discards unless you play a card

that allows you to! When a deck runs out, reshufﬂe its discards.

In Play: These are the cards on the table in front of you, showing your

Faction and Class (if any) and the Items you are carrying. Continuing Curses

and some other cards also stay on the table after you play them. Cards in play

are public information and must be visible to the other players.

Your Hand: Cards in your hand are not in play. They don’t help you, but

they can’t be taken away except by cards that speciﬁcally affect “your hand.”

At the end of your turn, you may have no more than ﬁve cards in your hand

(see Charity, p. 2).

Cards in play may not be returned to your hand – they must be discarded

or traded if you want to get rid of them.

Character Creation

Everyone starts as a Level 1 character with no class. (This joke is included

pursuant to the requirements of the

Munchkin System Reference Document,

v2.3.)

Munchkin characters may be

male or female. Your character’s sex

at the start of the game matches the

sex of the standie on the board. If

you change sex, swap standies.

Look at your initial eight cards. If

you have any Faction or Class cards,

you may (if you like) play one of each

type by placing it in front of you. If you

have any usable Items (p. 3), you may

play them by placing them in front of you.

If you have any doubt about whether you

should play a card, you could read below, or

you could just charge ahead and do it.

Combat: Basic Rules

When you ﬁght a monster, you compare your combat strength

(your Level plus any bonuses or penalties) against the monster’s

combat strength. If your combat strength is greater, you win! If it is

tied or lower, the monster wins.

For the full explanation, see Combat, p, 3.

When You May Take Actions

You may perform these actions at any time:

Discard a Class or Faction.

Play a Go Up a Level or Hireling.

Play a Curse.

You may perform these actions at any time, as long as you are not

in combat:

Trade an Item with another player (the other player may not be

in combat, either).

Change which Items you have equipped.

Play a card that you have just received (some cards may be

played even during combat; see above).

You may perform these actions on your own turn:

Play a new Class or Faction card (at any time).

Sell Items for levels (except when you are combat).

Play an Item (most Items cannot be played during combat,

but some one-shot Items can; see p. 3).

Level Counters: It’s Not Cheating,

It’s Using the Rules!

If you have an iOS or Android device, you’ll like our Level Counter

smartphone app. Just search for “

Munchkin level counter” or click the

link at levelcounter.sjgames.com. Even better, it gives you personal

in-game advantages to make your friends jealous . . . which is what

being a munchkin is all about!

Interfering With Combat

You can interfere with others’ combats in several ways, including:

Use a one-shot card. You could help another player by using a

one-shot to strengthen his side. Of course, you can “accidentally”

strengthen the monster with it, instead . . .

Play a Monster Enhancer. These cards (usually) make a monster

stronger . . . and give it more Treasure. You can play these either during

your own combats or during someone else’s combat.

Add a monster from your hand to join the combat, either with

a Wandering Monster card or by using the special Undead and

Goblin rules.

Curse them, if you have a Curse card.

Starting and

Finishing the Game

Decide who goes ﬁrst by any method that will not lead to excessive

bloodshed. (We suggest a rousing game of

Zombie Dice . . .)

Play proceeds in turns, each with several phases (see below). When the ﬁrst

player ﬁnishes his turn, the player to his left takes a turn, and so on.

The ﬁrst player to reach Level 10 wins . . . but you must reach Level 10 by

killing a monster, unless a card speciﬁcally allows you to win another way.

Turn Phases

Your turn begins as soon as the previous player’s turn ends. At the start of

your turn, you may play cards, switch Items from equipped to unequipped or

vice versa, trade Items with other players, and sell Items for levels. When your

cards are arranged the way you want, go to phase 1.

(1) Kick Open The Door: Draw one card from the Door deck and turn

it face up.

If it’s a monster, you must ﬁght it. See Combat, p. 3. If the card is a

curse – see Curses, p. 5 – it applies to you immediately (if it can) and is

discarded (unless it has a persistent effect or you keep the card as a reminder

of an upcoming effect).

If you draw any other card, you may either put it in your hand or play it

immediately.

(2) Look For Trouble/Loot The Room: If you fought a monster in

phase 1, skip this phase and go to phase 3.

If you did NOT draw a monster when you ﬁrst opened the door, you have

two choices: either Look For Trouble or Loot The Room.

Look For Trouble: Play a monster

from your hand and ﬁght it, just

as if you had found it when you kicked open the door. Don’t play a monster

you can’t handle, unless you’re sure you can count on getting help (see p. 4)!

Loot The Room: Draw a second card from the Door deck, face down,

and place it in your hand.

(3) Charity: If you have

more than ﬁve cards in your

hand, you must play enough

cards to get you to ﬁve or

below. If you cannot, or do

not want to, you must give the

excess cards to the player with

the lowest Level. If players are

tied for lowest, divide the cards

as evenly as possible, but it’s

up to you who gets the bigger

set(s) of leftovers. If YOU are

the lowest or tied for lowest,

just discard the excess.

As soon as you are ﬁnished

with Charity, the next player’s turn

begins.

Character Stats

Each character is basically a collection of weapons, armor, and magic

items, with three stats: Level, Class, and Faction. For instance, you might

describe your character as “a Level 8 Pathﬁnder Witch with the Hellscourge,

Goblin Sweat, and the Torc of Tchotchkes.”

Level: This is a measure of how generally buff and studly you are. When

the rules or cards refer to your Level, capitalized, they mean the number in the

space where your standie is.

You gain a level when you kill a monster, or when a card says that you do.

You can also sell Items to buy levels (see Items).

You lose a level when a card says you do. Your Level can never go below 1.

However, your combat strength can be negative, if you get hit by a Curse or

suffer some other kind of penalty.

Class: Characters may be Alchemists, Necromancers, Summoners, or

Witches. Each Class has special abilities, shown on the cards. You gain the

abilities of a Class the moment you play its card in front of you, and lose

them as soon as you discard that card.

Some Class abilities are powered by discards. Unless the card speciﬁes,

you may discard any of your cards, in play or in your hand, to power a Class

ability.

You can discard a Class card at any time, even in combat: “I don’t wanna

be a Witch anymore.” You may play a new Class card at any time on your own

turn, or as soon as you get it if it’s not your turn.

You may not belong to more than one class at once unless you play the

Super Munchkin card.

Faction: Characters may be Eagle Knights, Hellknights, Pathﬁnders, or

Red Mantis Assassins. The rules for Classes, above, also apply to Factions.

You may not belong to more than one Faction at once unless you play the

Double Life card.

Super Munchkin and Double Life

These cards may be played whenever it is legal to play a Class or

Faction, as long as you have an appropriate card (Class for Super

Munchkin, Faction for Double Life) to attach it to. You

cannot have more than one of the same Class or Faction card

in play at once.

If you play Super Munchkin with one Class, you get

all the advantages of being that Class (the ability to equip

Class-only Items, monsters with penalties against that Class

suffer those penalties) and none of the disadvantages (you can

equip Items forbidden to that Class, and monsters do not get

bonuses because of your Class). If the Class has an ability that

has a cost, however, you must still pay it – you aren’t

that Super!

(All of the above is also true for Double Life, just for Factions.)

Treasures

Treasure cards include permanent and “one-shot” cards. Any Treasure card

may be played to the table as soon as you get it, or at any time on your own

turn

except during combat (unless the rules below or the card itself says

otherwise).

Items

Most Treasures are Items. Items have a Gold Piece value. “No Value” is

equivalent to zero Gold Pieces, and a “No Value” card is considered an Item.

All Items you have in play are considered “carried.” Items that are actually

giving you a bonus are “equipped.” You should indicate Items that are not

equipped by turning the cards sideways. You may not alter the status of your

Items during a combat or while running away.

Anyone can

carry any Item (except for extra Big items; see below),

but you may

equip only one Headgear, one suit of Armor, one pair

of Footgear, and two “1 Hand” Items (or one “2 Hands” Item) . . .

unless you have a card that lets you ignore these limits, such as Hireling or

Cheat!, or unless one of the cards says otherwise. If you are carrying two

Headgear cards, for instance, you can equip only one of them at a time.

Likewise, some Items have restrictions: for instance, the Pumps can only

be worn by an Alchemist. Their bonus only counts for someone who is, at the

moment, an Alchemist.

You cannot discard Item cards “just because.” You may

sell Items for

a level,

trade Items with other players, or give an Item to another player

who wants it (see below). You may discard Items to power certain Class

and Faction abilities. And a Curse or a monster’s Bad Stuff (see p. 5)

may force you to get rid of something!

Big Items: You may carry any number of Small items, but only one Big

one. (Any item not marked Big is considered Small.) You may not discard

one Big item to play another; you must sell the ﬁrst Item, trade it, lose it to a

Curse or Bad Stuff, or discard it to power a Class or Faction ability.

If something lets you have more than one Big item (for instance, the

Cheat! card) and you lose that ability, you must either correct the

problem immediately or get rid of all but one Big item. If it’s

your turn and you’re not in combat, you can sell the excess

Big items (as long as you have at least 1,000 Gold Pieces

of Items to sell). Otherwise, you must give them to the

lowest-Level player(s) who can carry them! If any Big

items are still left over, discard them.

Trading: You may trade Items (but no other cards)

with other players. You may only trade Items from the

table – not from your hand. You may trade at any time

except when you or your trading partner are in combat –

in fact, the best time to trade is when it’s not your turn.

Any Item you receive in a trade must remain in play.

You may also give Items away without a trade, to bribe

other players – “I’ll give you my Starscone if you

won’t help Bob

ﬁght the Whispering Tyrant!”

You may show your hand to others. Like we could stop you.

Selling Items for Levels: At any point during your turn except during

combat or Running Away, you may discard Items worth a total of at least

1,000 Gold Pieces and immediately go up one level. (“No Value” cards are

the same as zero Gold Pieces.) If you discard (for instance) 1,100 Gold

Pieces worth, you don’t get change. But if you can manage 2,000 worth, you

can go up two levels at once, and so on. You may sell Items from your hand

as well as those you are carrying. You may

not sell Items to go to Level 10.

“One-Shot” Treasures

A Treasure card that says “Usable once only” is often called a “one-shot”

Treasure. Most of these are used during combat to strengthen the munchkins

or the monsters, and may be played from your hand or from the table. Some

have other effects, however, so read the card carefully! Discard these cards as

soon as the combat is over or their effect is resolved.

One-shot Treasures with a Gold Piece value may be sold for levels, just

like other items.

Other Treasures

Other Treasure cards (like Go Up a Level cards) are not Items. Most of

these cards say when they can be played, and whether they stay in play or are

discarded. A couple of speciﬁc examples:

Go Up a Level cards may be played on yourself or any other player at any

time, even during combat. Discard them once they are played. Exception:

You cannot play a Go Up a Level card to give a player the winning level!

Hireling may be played at any time, on any turn. You cannot give a

Hireling an Item to carry while you are in combat, however.

Combat

To ﬁght a monster, compare its combat strength to yours. Combat

strength is the total of Level plus all modiﬁers – positive or negative – given

by Items and other cards. If the monster’s combat strength is equal to yours,

or greater, you lose the combat and must Run Away – see below. If your

combat strength totals more than the monster’s – note that monsters win

ties! – you kill it and go up a level (two levels for some big monsters). You’ll

also get the number of Treasures shown on its card.

Sometimes a card will let you get rid of the monster without killing it. This

is still “winning,” but you don’t get a level. Unless the card says otherwise,

you don’t get the Treasures, either.

Some monster cards have special powers that affect combat – a bonus

against a Faction or Class, for instance. Be sure to check these!

You and the other players may play one-shot Treasures or use Class or

Faction abilities to help or harm you in your combat. Some Door cards may

also be played into a combat, such as Monster Enhancers (see below).

Remember: while you are in combat, you cannot sell, equip, unequip, or

trade Items, or play Treasures from your hand, unless these rules or the card

says otherwise.

If you kill a monster (or monsters!), discard the monster(s) and any other

cards played, and claim your rewards. But note: someone may play a hostile

card on you, or use a special power, just as you think you have won. When

you kill a monster, you must wait a reasonable time, deﬁned as about 3.75

seconds, for anyone else to speak up. After that, you have really killed the

monster, and you really get the level(s) and Treasures, though they can still

whine and argue.

Monsters

If drawn face-up, during the Kick Open The Door phase, Monsters

immediately attack the person who drew them.

If you get a Monster card any other way, it goes into your hand and may

be played during your own turn to Look For Trouble, or played with the

Wandering Monster card to join another player’s ﬁght. (See Fighting

Multiple Monsters, below.)

Each Monster card is a single monster, even if the name on the card is

plural.

Monster Enhancers

Certain cards, called monster enhancers, raise or lower the combat strength

of individual monsters. (Penalties to monsters are still considered enhancers.)

They also affect the number of Treasures the monsters are worth. monster

enhancers may be played by any player during any combat.

All enhancers on a single monster add together. If there are multiple

monsters in a combat, the person who plays each enhancer must choose

which monster it applies to.

Fighting Multiple Monsters

Some cards (notably Wandering Monster) allow your rivals to send

other monsters to join the ﬁght. You must defeat their combined combat

strengths. Any special abilities, such as forcing you to ﬁght with your Level

only, apply to the entire ﬁght. If you have the right cards, you can eliminate

one monster from the combat and ﬁght the other(s) normally, but you cannot

choose to ﬁght one and Run Away from the other(s). If you eliminate one

monster, but then run from the other(s), you don’t get

any levels or Treasure!

Undead Monsters and Goblins

Several monsters in this set are tagged Undead. You may play any

Undead monster from your hand into combat to help any

other Undead,

without using a Wandering Monster card. If you have a card that can be

used to make a monster Undead, you may play it with a non-Undead monster

to use this rule.

Likewise, some monsters in this set are tagged Goblin. You may play

any Goblin from your hand into combat to help any

other Goblin, without

using a Wandering Monster card. If you have a card that can be used to

turn a monster into a Goblin, you may play it with a non-Goblin monster to

use this rule.

One monster, the Hemogoblin, is both Undead

and a Goblin! Yes, that

means it gets to use both rules . . . hope you haven’t made too many enemies!

Asking For Help

If you cannot win a combat on your own, you may ask any other player to

help you. If he refuses, you may ask another player, and so on, until they all

turn you down or someone helps. Only one player can help you, adding his

combat strength to yours.

Anyone can play cards to affect your combat,

however!

You’ll probably have to bribe someone to help. You may offer your helper any

Item(s) you are currently carrying, or any number of the Treasure cards the

monster has. If you offer him part of the monster’s Treasure, you must agree

whether he picks ﬁrst, or you pick ﬁrst, or whatever. You may also offer to

play any cards from your hand that you legally could, such as Go Up a Level

cards, on your helper.

The special abilities or vulnerabilities of the monster also apply to your

helper, and vice versa. For instance, if an Eagle Knight helps you, he can

discard cards to add to your combined combat strength. If you are facing

the Akata and a Summoner helps you, its combat strength is reduced by 3

for that ﬁght. But if you are facing the Pugwampi and a Summoner helps

you, the monster’s combat strength is increased by 3 (unless you, too, are a

Summoner and the monster’s combat strength has already been increased).

If someone successfully helps you kill the monster, discard it, draw

Treasures (see Rewards, below), and follow any special instructions on the

monster card. You level up for each slain monster. Your helper does

not

go up any levels.

You draw the Treasure cards, even if it was your helper’s

special ability that defeated the monster, and distribute them according to the

agreement you reached.

Rewards

When you kill a monster, you get one level per

monster, unless the Monster card says something else,

and you get all its Treasure! Each monster has a Treasure

number on the bottom of its card. Draw that many

Treasures, modiﬁed by any Monster Enhancers played

on it. Draw

face-down if you killed the monster alone.

Draw

face-up, so the whole party can see what you

got, if someone helped you. (If a monster says

“Special” instead of a number of Treasures,

read the card to ﬁnd out what to do.)

If you defeat a monster by nonlethal means,

you do not get a level and you may or may not

get the Treasure, depending on the method.

Treasure cards can be played as soon as you

get them, even if you are the helper.

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