Model Tech Super Cub ARF Assembly Instructions Manual
- Category
- Remote controlled toys
- Type
- Assembly Instructions Manual
Below you will find brief information for Radio controlled aircraft Super Cub ARF. This document provides assembly instructions for the Model Tech Super Cub ARF, detailing how to put together the prebuilt and covered airframe. The instructions cover both glow and brushless electric power system installations, as well as control systems, including ailerons, elevator, rudder, flaps, and throttle. The aircraft features stable flight characteristics and is designed for fast and easy assembly with over 100 high-resolution photos to guide you. It includes a fiberglass cowling, aluminum landing gear bracket, and a complete hardware set.
Below you will find brief information for Radio controlled aircraft Super Cub ARF. This document provides assembly instructions for the Model Tech Super Cub ARF, detailing how to put together the prebuilt and covered airframe. The instructions cover both glow and brushless electric power system installations, as well as control systems, including ailerons, elevator, rudder, flaps, and throttle. The aircraft features stable flight characteristics and is designed for fast and easy assembly with over 100 high-resolution photos to guide you. It includes a fiberglass cowling, aluminum landing gear bracket, and a complete hardware set.
Page 40 Page 1
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Attn: Global Services
18480 Bandilier Circle
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will not deliver
without proper
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Kit Product Number MT3178D-1
Check out our website for more information on other exciting Model Tech products!
HTTP://MODELTECH.GLOBALHOBBY.COM
Made in China
FEATURES
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
Wing Span: 81 Inches (2057mm) l Wing Area: 900 Square Inches (58.1dm2) l Length: 50.75 Inches (1289mm)
Weight RTF: 6.5-7.5 Pounds (2.9-3.4kg) l Wing Loading: 17-19 Ounces/Square Foot (52-58gr/dm2)
Functions: Ailerons, Elevator, Rudder, Flaps and Throttle l Engine Required (Glow Version): .46 - .61 Two-Stroke or .52 - .70 Four-Stroke
Power System Required (Electric Version): 4120/05 Brushless Outrunner / 80 Amp Brushless ESC / 4 Cell 4000mAH LiPO
lCompletely Prebuilt and Covered with Iron-On Covering Material
lAccepts Glow Power and Brushless Electric Power Systems
lStable, Predictable Flight Characteristics
lFiberglass Cowling and Aluminium Landing Gear Bracket
lClear Moulded Windshield and Side Windows
lComplete Hardware Set - Wheels, Pushrods, Fuel Tank, Clevises, Etc.
l Fast and Easy Assembly - Over 100 High-Resolution Photos to Guide You
SPECIFICATIONS
Model Tech Co., Ltd.
Hong Kong
© 2008, Model Tech Co., Ltd.
All Rights Reserved
Version 1 January 2008
Page 2 Page 39
These assembly instructions are designed to guide you through the entire assembly process of your new aircraft in the least amount of
time possible. Along the way you'll learn how to properly assemble your new aircraft and also learn tips that will help you in the future.
We have listed some of our recommendations below. Please read through them before beginning assembly.
l Please read through each step before beginning assembly. You
should nd the layout very complete and straightforward. Our goal
is to guide you through assembly without any of the headaches and
hassles that you might expect.
l There are check boxes next to each procedure. After you
complete a procedure, check off the box. This will help prevent you
from losing your place.
l Cover your work table with brown paper or a soft cloth, both to
protect the table and to protect the parts.
l Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to put the small parts
in after you open the accessory bags.
l We're all excited to get a new aircraft in the air, but take your
time. This will ensure you build a straight, strong and great ying
aircraft.
l If you come across this symbol +, it means that this is an
important point or an assembly hint.
This R/C aircraft is not a toy! If misused or abused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only in open
areas and preferably at a dedicated R/C ying site. We suggest having a qualied instructor carefully inspect your aircraft before its rst
ight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this aircraft, your radio control system and any other components
purchased separately.
Model Tech guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This does not cover any component
parts damaged by use, misuse or modication. In no case shall Model Tech's liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.
In that Model Tech has no control over the nal assembly or material used for nal assembly, no liability shall be assumed for any damage resulting from
the use by the user of the nal user-assembled product. By the act of using the nal user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
SAFETY WARNING
OUR GUARANTEE
INTRODUCTION ....................................................................................................... 2
SAFETY WARNING .................................................................................................. 2
OUR GUARANTEE ................................................................................................... 2
OUR RECOMMENDATIONS .................................................................................... 3
LITHIUM POLYMER BATTERY WARNINGS - PLEASE READ ................................ 4
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED ....................................................................... 5
A NOTE ABOUT COVERING MATERIAL ................................................................. 5
TIPS FROM THE PROS ............................................................................................ 5
KIT CONTENTS ........................................................................................................ 6
WING ASSEMBLY ..................................................................................................... 8
HORIZONTAL AND VERTICAL STABILISERS INSTALLATION ............................. 12
TAIL WHEEL INSTALLATION .................................................................................. 16
MAIN LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION ................................................................. 17
MOTOR INSTALLATION - ELECTRIC VERSION ................................................... 19
ENGINE INSTALLATION - GLOW VERSION ......................................................... 21
THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION - GLOW VERSION ...................... 23
FUEL TANK INSTALLATION - GLOW VERSION .....................................................25
ELEVATOR CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION ................................................... 27
RUDDER CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION ......................................................29
AILERON AND FLAP CONTROL SYSTEMS INSTALLATION ................................. 30
COWLING INSTALLATION ...................................................................................... 32
WINDSHIELD AND SIDE WINDOWS INSTALLATION ............................................33
WING STRUTS INSTALLATION .............................................................................. 34
FINAL ASSEMBLY .................................................................................................... 35
C/G AND BALANCING ............................................................................................. 37
LATERAL BALANCING ............................................................................................ 37
CONTROL THROWS ...............................................................................................37
PREFLIGHT CHECK AND SAFETY ........................................................................ 38
REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST .................................................................................38
PRODUCT EVALUATION SHEET ............................................................................ 39
PRODUCT EVALUATION SHEET
Telling us what you like and don't like determines what model kits we make and how we make them. We would appreciate it if you would take a few
minutes of your time to answer the following questions about this kit and your modeling interests. Simply fold this form on the dotted lines, seal with
tape and mail it to us. Do not use staples and make sure our address faces out.
Global Hobby Distributors will not disclose the information it collects to outside parties. Global Hobby Distributors does not sell,
trade, or rent your personal information to others. Your privacy is important to us.
1) Kit: Model Tech Super Cub ARF # MT3178D-1
2) Where did you learn about this kit?
q Magazine Ads q Friend
q Hobby Shop q Other
q Internet
3) What inuenced you the most to buy this kit?
q Magazine Ads q Price
q Type of Model q Box Art
q Recommendation q Other
q Internet
4) Did you have any trouble understanding the written instructions? If
yes, please explain.
q Yes q No
________________________________________________
________________________________________________
________________________________________________
________________________________________________
5) Did you have any trouble understanding any of the photographs?
If yes, please explain.
q Yes q No
________________________________________________
________________________________________________
________________________________________________
________________________________________________
6) Were any of the kit parts:
q Damaged q Wrong Size
q Missing q Wrong Shape
If you checked any of the boxes above, did you contact our
Customer Service Department to resolve the problem?
q Yes q No
7) Was any of the assembly difcult for you? If yes, please explain.
q Yes q No
________________________________________________
________________________________________________
________________________________________________
________________________________________________
8) What did you like most about this kit?
q Assembly Manual q Parts Fit
q Hardware Supplied q Price
q Other
9) What did you like least about this kit?
q Assembly Manual q Parts Fit
q Hardware Supplied q Price
q Other
10) Are you satised with the nished model? If no, please explain.
q Yes q No
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
11) How does this kit compare to similar kits by other manufacturers?
q Better q As Good
What is Your Age Group:
q 10 & Under q 11 - 20 q 21 - 30 q 31 - 40 q 41 - 50 q 51 - 60 q 61 - 70 q 71 +
How Many Years Have You Been in the Hobby?
q Less than 1 q 2 - 4 q 5 - 7 q 8 - 10 q 11 - 15 q 16 - 20 q 20 or More
How Many Models Have You Purchased In the Last Year?
q 0 - 1 q 2 - 4 q 5 - 7 q 8 - 10 q 10 or More
Please List any Other Modeling Interests or any Additional Information about This Product:
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
QC #
Page 38 Page 3
PREFLIGHT CHECK AND SAFETY
l Completely charge the transmitter and receiver batteries before your rst day of ying.
l Check every bolt and every glue joint in the aircraft to ensure that everything is tight and well-bonded. This should include all of the
control surface hinges as well.
l Double-check that you've installed and tightened all of the servo horn retaining screws.
l Double-check that the receiver and battery are properly secured into place. There's nothing worse than the battery coming loose
during ight.
l Double-check the balance of the aircraft.
l Check the control surfaces. They should all move in the correct direction and not bind.
l Make sure that you've installed silicone fuel tubing over the clevises to prevent any chance of them coming open during ight.
l If your radio transmitter is equipped with dual rate switches, double-check that they are on the low-rate setting for your rst few ights.
l Check to ensure that all of the control surfaces are moving the proper amount in both low and high rate settings.
l Check the receiver antenna wire. It should be fully extended and not coiled up inside the fuselage.
l Do not cut the receiver antenna wire shorter or the range of your radio control system will be greatly reduced.
l Properly balance the propeller. A propeller that is out of balance will cause excessive vibration, which could lead to motor and/or
airframe failure, and it will reduce efciency and power.
l Double-check that the propeller nut is tightened securely.
l Do not test-y your aircraft for the rst time without rst having it safety-checked by an experienced modeler.
l Do not y your aircraft higher than approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without having an observer with you. The
observer should tell you about any full-size aircraft in your vicinity and you should always give the right-of-way to full-scale aircraft.
l When ying at a ying eld with established rules, you should abide by those rules. You should not deliberately y your aircraft in a
reckless and/or dangerous manner.
l While ying, you should not deliberately y behind the ight line. If your aircraft should inadvertently y behind the ight line, you should
change course immediately.
l You should complete a successful range check of your radio equipment prior to each new day of ying, or prior to the rst ight of a
new or repaired aircraft.
l You should perform your initial turn after take- off away from the ightline and/or spectator area.
l You should not knowingly operate your R/C radio system within 3 miles of a preexisting model club ying eld without a frequency
sharing agreement with that club.
REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST
Instruction Manual ....................................................... MT115944
Wing Set ...................................................................... MT115945
Fuselage Set ...............................................................MT115946
Stabiliser Set ...............................................................MT115947
Cowling ........................................................................ MT115948
Front Windshield and Side Windows Set .................... MT115949
Main Landing Gear Set................................................ MT115950
Main Gear Wheels with Hub Caps ..............................MT115951
Fuel Tank (320cc Oval) ................................................ MT115952
Tail Wheel Assembly.................................................... MT115953
Decal Set ..................................................................... MT115954
Wing Struts .................................................................. MT115955
Hardware Set............................................................... MT115956
This section describes our recommendations to help you in deciding which types of accessories to purchase for your new aircraft.
Please read through this entire section very carefully. We have provided you with recommendations that, if
QTY. 1 Airtronics RD6000 FM Radio Control System
QTY. 1 Magnum XL .52RFS Four-Stroke Engine
QTY. 7 Airtronics 94102Z Standard Servos (QTY. 6 for Electric)
QTY. 2 Airtronics 12" (305mm) Servo Extensions
QTY. 2 Airtronics Servo Y-Harnesses
QTY. 1 Zinger 12 x 6 Wooden Propeller
QTY. 1 Thunderbolt 4-Cycle Glow Plug
QTY. 1 Magnum In-Cowl Fueling Valve
QTY. 1 Global Silicone Fuel Tubing
QTY. 1 Du-Bro 1/4" Foam Rubber
QTY. 1 Flat Black Paint (Optional)
QTY. 1 KMS Quantum 4120/05 Brushless Outrunner (Electric)
QTY. 1 Castle Creations Phoenix 80 Brushless ESC (Electric)
QTY. 1 Impulse Power 4 Cell 4000mAH 80A (20C) LiPO Battery (Electric)
QTY. 1 APC 13 x 6E Composite Propeller (Electric)
QTY. 1 Pro-Peak Quattro DC LiPO Charger (Electric)
QTY. 1 Pro-Peak 4mm Gold Connector Set (Electric)
QTY. 1 Double-Sided Foam Tape (Electric)
OUR RECOMMENDATIONS
WHAT GLOW ENGINE SHOULD I USE?
HERE'S A LIST OF WHAT WE RECOMMEND TO FINISH THE SUPER CUB ARF
WHAT RADIO CONTROL SYSTEM AND SERVOS SHOULD I USE?
The Super Cub ARF can be own using either a two-stroke or a four-stroke engine. For economy and scale-like
performance we suggest using either a .46 size two-stroke engine or a .52 size four-stroke engine. For more power
for aerobatics and higher speed, we suggest using either a .61 size two-stroke engine or
an .70 size four-stroke engine.
Whether you're going to use a two-stroke or a four-stroke engine, the engine will be
mounted on its side. If you're using a two-stroke engine, you will need to use an
after-market Pitt's style mufer to direct the exhaust out the bottom of the cowling. If you're
using a four-stroke engine, the exhaust header on most engines can be rotated to allow the stock mufer to
exit the bottom of the cowling, so no after-market mufer will be necessary.
The Super Cub ARF will require the use of a 5-channel or more radio control system.
A standard radio control system or a more sophisticated computer radio control system
would work equally well. At a minimum, the transmitter should feature dual rates and servo
reversing. A standard-size receiver and airborne battery pack can be used as well.
Standard-size servos can be used on all of the ight-control surfaces. You will need a
total of 7 servos (6 servos for the electric version). Since the ailerons and the aps use
separate servos, you will need to use a Y-Harness to join the aileron servos together
and a separate Y-Harness to join the ap servos together. You will also need to use two
12" (305mm) long aileron servo extensions since the aileron servos are mounted separately in the wing panels.
There really isn't too much else that you'll need to nish your Super Cub ARF. You'll need an in-cowl fueling valve if you're using a glow
engine. You'll also need typical modeling supplies, such as foam rubber to protect your receiver and battery. We've provided a complete
list below for both glow and electric versions.
WHAT OTHER ITEMS DO I NEED?
If you would like to electrify your Super Cub ARF, we
recommend using the KMS Quantum 4120/05 brushless
outrunner (or equivalent) with a 13x6E propeller and 80 amp
ESC. We suggest using a 4 cell 2500mAH to 4000mAH LiPO
battery. For lighter weight but less ight time, use a 2500mAH
LiPO battery. To add more ight time, while sacricing only a
little weight, use a 4000mAH LiPO battery. It's also important that you use high-quality connectors, such as Dean's Ultra Plugs or
Pro-Peak 4mm Gold Plugs.
WHAT BRUSHLESS POWER SYSTEM SHOULD I USE?
Page 4 Page 37
Please read and understand the warnings listed in this section. Make sure to read any and all warnings included
in the packaging with your battery, too. If used improperly, lithium polymer batteries can be very dangerous,
so please follow these warnings and suggestions at all times.
l This product may explode or catch re. Serious injury can result from misuse. Serious injury, loss of property, re and death can result
from misuse of this product.
l All instructions, warnings and cautions must be followed at all times. Failure to do so can lead to serious injury or re.
l Do NOT use this product before reading and understanding all directions and warnings.
l Do NOT overcharge. Maximum voltage for each pack must be followed.
l Do NOT over-discharge. NEVER discharge below minimum volts.
l Do NOT discharge at a rate greater than the maximum continuous discharge.
l Do NOT use or charge if the battery is hot.
l ONLY use a charger made for Lithium Polymer batteries.
l Do NOT charge at a rate higher than 1C. Example: if the battery’s rating is 340mAH, then the charger’s charge rate must be set at
340mAH or less.
l Do NOT leave in direct sunlight or in a hot car or storage area.
l Do NOT get wet or expose to moisture.
l Do NOT short-circuit the battery.
l ONLY discharge and charge the battery outdoors or in a resafe container.
l Do NOT charge with reverse polarity.
l Do NOT leave the battery connected when not in use.
l Do NOT operate or charge unattended.
l Do NOT solder to the battery directly and do not get the battery hot in any way.
l Do NOT use the product if you do not understand the warnings and proper use of the product.
l Always let the battery cool and "rest" between uses and charging.
l To avoid over-discharging, only use a speed control that is made for LiPO batteries.
l We recommend the use of a resafe container when charging or storing.
l Do NOT charge inside your car or inside your house.
l Inspect the battery before each use for swelling or other malformation. If the cell has ballooned, it MUST be discarded.
l Set the charger to 1C (charge at 1/2C or less for the rst 5 cycles).
l Check polarity and then connect battery to charger.
l In use, do not over-discharge or exceed maximum discharge.
l When handling the battery, remember not to poke, bend or damage the cells. The cell's outer casing is soft and can be damaged.
l Remember, the cells must never exceed 71º Celcius (160º Fahrenheit) for any reason.
LITHIUM POLYMER BATTERY WARNINGS - PLEASE READ
WARNINGS AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS FOR ALL BRANDS OF LITHIUM POLYMER BATTERIES
CHARGING WARNINGS AND PRECAUTIONS FOR ALL BRANDS OF LITHIUM POLYMER BATTERIES
C/G AND BALANCING
BALANCE POINT (C/G):
l
IMPORTANT It is critical that your aircraft be balanced correctly. Incorrectly balancing your aircraft can cause your aircraft to lose
control and crash!
+ Once you have own and become familiar with the ight characteristics of the aircraft, the C/G can be moved fore or aft to change
the ight performance. Moving the C/G back will cause the aircraft to be more responsive and aerobatic, but less stable. Moving the C/G
forward will cause the aircraft to be more stable, but less responsive.
q Place your ngers on the bottom of the wing at the C/G location and carefully lift the airplane. If the nose of the airplane drops, the
airplane is nose heavy. To correct this, move the battery and/or receiver back far enough to bring the airplane into balance. If the tail of
the airplane drops, the airplane is tail heavy. To correct this, move the battery and/or receiver forward far enough to bring the airplane
into balance. When balanced correctly, the airplane should sit level or slightly nose down when you lift it up with your ngers at the
C/G location.
IMPORTANT Balance the airplane with the fuel tank empty or the LiPO battery installed (if using a brushless electric motor).
CONTROL THROWS
Ailerons: 1/2" (13mm) Up and 1/2" (13mm) Down
Elevator: 1/2" (13mm) Up and 1/2" (13mm) Down
Rudder: 3/4" (19mm) Right and 3/4" (19mm) Left
Flaps: Down as Much as Possible
TEST FLYING
THE CONTROL THROWS ARE
We recommend initially setting up the aircraft using the Test Flying control throws. These control throws are suggested for initial test
ying because they will allow the aircraft to y smoother and make it easier to control. For sport ying and aerobatics, increase the
control throws by 1/8" (3mm) at a time until you're satised with the result, but only AFTER you've become familiar with the ight
characteristics of the aircraft using the Test Flying control throws.
IMPORTANT After you are nished adjusting the control throws, we strongly suggest installing 3/8" (10mm) long pieces of silicone
tubing over the clevises and snap-keepers to keep them from coming open during ight.
LATERAL BALANCING
Lateral balancing will make the airplane's controls easier to trim and will make the airplane track straighter in the air.
q Turn the airplane upside down and loop one length of string around the propeller shaft, then loop a second length of string around
the tail wheel wire.
q With someone helping you, carefully lift the airplane up by the two lengths of string. Watch how the wing reacts. If one side of the
wing drops, that side is heavier than the other. To correct this condition, stick a small piece of self-adhesive lead weight to the bottom of
the lighter wing half (the one that doesn't drop). For best mechanical advantage, place the weight as close to the wing tip as possible,
but make sure to apply the lead weight to a solid portion of the wing structure so that it can't rip off during ight.
q Repeat the procedure a couple of more times to double-check your ndings. When done properly the wing should stay level when
you lift the airplane.
Page 36 Page 5
STEP 2: INSTALLING THE BATTERY TRAY - ELECTRIC VERSION
q Glue the battery tray to the wing mounting bulkhead and the opening in the
fuel tank support bulkhead, making sure that the battery tray is centred and
pushed rmly against the back of the rewall.
IMPORTANT Glue the battery into place using a generous amount of
epoxy. This will ensure that the glue joint will be strong enough.
IMPORTANT If the ESC that you're using does not provide power to the receiver (feature BEC circuitry) using a 4 LiPO battery,
you will need to install a separate 4 cell receiver battery pack and an On/Off switch into the fuselage as described in this step.
Most ESCs that require the use of a separate 4 cell receiver battery pack must have the positive (+) wire disconnected from the
receiver throttle lead. Please check your ESC user's guide for further information.
q Install the switch into the switch mount and use a scrap length of wire,
attached to the switch and passed through the fuselage side, to turn the switch
on and off.
q If required, install your 4 cell receiver battery pack into the fuselage. We
suggest mounting the receiver battery pack over the C/G location, unless you
need to mount it in a different place to balance the aircraft.
q Mount the LiPO battery to the battery tray, using a strip of hook and loop
material (not included).
IMPORTANT The nal location that you mount the LiPO battery depends
on where the aircraft balances as described in the next section.
Servo
Horn
Cut
Antenna
To Tail Wheel Wire
Modied Servo Arm
Rubber Band
Remove This
Portion
pages to locate the C/G and balance the aircraft, lateral balance the aircraft and adjust the
q Mount your ESC and receiver into the fuselage, making sure to keep the ESC as far away from the receiver as possible.
q Make a receiver antenna wire mount out of an extra servo horn.
q Drill a 5/64" (2mm) hole through the bottom of the fuselage, then run the
receiver antenna wire out along the bottom of the fuselage and secure it to the
tail wheel wire, using a rubber band and the antenna mount that you made.
q Builder's Triangle
q 220 Grit Sandpaper
q Sanding Block
q Rotary Tool with Cutting Disc and Sanding Drum
q Masking Tape
q Airplane Stand
q T-Pins
q Paper Towels
q Rubbing Alcohol
q Epoxy Mixing Sticks
q Epoxy Mixing Cups
q Small Paint Brush (Optional)
q Heat-Shrink Tubing (Assorted Sizes)
q Heat Gun
q Heat Sealing Iron
q Soldering Iron (for Electric Version)
q Solder (for Electric Version)
q 5 Minute and 30 Minute Epoxy
q Thin and Thick Cyanoacrylate (C/A)
q C/A Debonder
q Thread Locking Compound
q Formula 560 Canopy Glue
q # 1 and # 2 Phillips Head Screwdrivers
q 1.5mm and 2.5mm Hex Wrenches
q 4mm, 5.5mm and 7mm Nut Drivers
q Wire Cutters
q Adjustable Wrench
q Needle Nose Pliers
q Modeling Knife
q Scissors
q Electric Drill
q Assorted Drill Bits
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Pencil
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
The covering material used on your aircraft is real iron-on, heat-shrink covering material. It is possible with heat and humidity changes
that the covering material on your aircraft may wrinkle or sag. This trait is inherent in all types of heat-shrink material. To remove any
wrinkles that might be visible you will need to use a heat-sealing covering iron.
q Plug in and turn on the sealing iron to the medium-high temperature setting. Allow the sealing iron to heat up for approximately 5 - 7 minutes.
q After the sealing iron has reached temperature, lightly apply the sealing iron to the wrinkled section of the covering material. Move
the sealing iron slowly over the wrinkled section until the covering material tightens and the wrinkles disappear.
+ If the colour layer smears from any of the seams the temperature of the sealing iron is too hot. Turn the temperature dial down and
wait about 5 minutes for the sealing iron to adjust to the lower temperature. You can remove any excess colour streaks using a paper
towel soaked with a small quantity of acetone.
A NOTE ABOUT COVERING MATERIAL
l During the covering process, sometimes colour may smear slightly from the seams. If you see any smeared colours on the covering
material, they can be quickly removed by simply wiping them off with a paper towel and a small amount of acetone.
l Make sure to test-t the parts together before applying glue. This will ensure that the parts t properly before gluing them together.
l When gluing anything that has a smooth surface, it's important to lightly roughen the gluing surfaces with 220 grit sandpaper. This
will allow the glue to stick better. Also, never glue directly to the covering material. Always remove the covering material from the gluing
surfaces prior to gluing the parts together.
l When cutting away the covering material from the gluing surfaces, be careful to cut only through the covering material. Try not to cut
down into the balsa structure because that can compromise the integrity of the airframe.
l We do not suggest storing your aircraft in an extremely hot environment (like the back of your car in direct sunlight) for any length of
time. The extreme heat could cause the covering material to wrinkle or sag and possibly damage the fragile components of the radio
control system and/or battery.
l Epoxy can be cleaned up before it dries using rubbing alcohol, and C/A can be cleaned up before it dries using C/A Debonder.
l To prevent current loss, use high-quality connectors between the battery and the ESC, and between the ESC and the motor.
l Insulate solder joints with heat-shrink tubing to prevent short circuits and corrosion.
TIPS FROM THE PROS
Page 6 Page 35
Before you begin assembly, group the parts as we list them below. This will ensure that you have all of the parts before you begin assembly
and it will also help you become familiar with each part.
q (1) Fuselage
q (1) Right Wing Panel with Aileron and Flap
q (1) Left Wing Panel with Aileron and Flap
q (1) Horizontal Stabiliser with Elevator Halves
q (1) Vertical Stabiliser with Rudder
q (1) Main Landing Gear Bracket
q (2) Main Gear Wheels
q (2) M4 x 35mm Machine Screws
q (6) M4 Flat Washers
q (4) M4 Lock Nuts
q (3) M3 x 16mm Machine Screws
q (3) M3 Flat Washers
KIT CONTENTS
AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES
MAIN LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLY
q (2) Wheel Covers
q (2) Wire Struts
q (2) Bungee Covers
q (2) Bungee Cover Mounts
q (2) Rubber Bands
q (6) M2 x 6mm Wood Screws
q (8) M2 Flat Washers
q (8) M2 Hex Nuts
MAIN LANDING GEAR ACCESSORIES
q (1) Prebent Tail Wheel Wire
q (1) Tail Wheel
q (1) Nylon Tail Wheel Mounting Bracket
q (1) Nylon Steering Arm
q (1) Nylon Spacer
q (3) M3 x 12mm Wood Screws
q (1) M2 x 10mm Wood Screw
q (2) Wheel Collars
q (2) M3 x 6mm Machine Screws
TAIL WHEEL ASSEMBLY
q (1) 14-1/2" (368mm) Pushrod Wire with Z-Bend
q (1) Adjustable Pushrod Connector with Nut and Machine Screw
THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM
q Align the two holes in the wing strut with the two holes in the wing, then
secure the wing strut to the wing, using two M3 x 10mm machine screws and
two M3 at washers.
q Repeat the previous procedures to install the second wing strut on the other half of the aircraft.
q # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
q Modeling Knife
q Scissors
q Electric Drill
q 1/16" (1.6mm) & 5/64" (2mm) Drill Bits
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Pencil
q (1) Battery Tray (for Electric Version) q (1) Decal Set
q Airplane Stand
q Masking Tape
q Heat-Shrink Tubing (for Electric Version)
q Heat Gun (for Electric Version)
q Soldering Iron (for Electric Version)
q Solder (for Electric Version)
FINAL ASSEMBLY
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
q Install the switch into the switch mount and use a scrap length of wire,
attached to the switch and passed through the fuselage side, to turn the switch
on and off.
q After you've found the nal location of the receiver and the battery, mount
them into the fuselage using your favorite method. We mounted the receiver
battery under the fuel tank and mounted the receiver to the fuselage oor in
front of the servos.
q Make a receiver antenna wire mount out of an extra servo horn.
q Drill a 5/64" (2mm) hole through the bottom of the fuselage, then run the
receiver antenna wire out along the bottom of the fuselage and secure it to the
tail wheel wire, using a rubber band and the antenna mount that you made.
IMPORTANT This step details the installation of the receiver, battery and switch harness if you're using a glow engine. If you're
using a brushless electric motor, please skip to steps 2 and 3 on page 36.
q Wrap the receiver and battery in foam rubber to protect them from vibration. Use a couple strips of masking tape or rubber bands to
hold the foam rubber in place.
+ Do not wrap the foam rubber too tightly or the vibration dampening quality will be reduced.
IMPORTANT After tightening the two wing strut mounting screws in the wing, tighten the wing strut mounting screw in the fuselage.
Servo
Horn
Cut
Antenna
To Tail Wheel Wire
Modied Servo Arm
Rubber Band
Remove This
Portion
Page 34 Page 7
q Glue each of the side windows into the window openings, using Formula
560 Canopy Glue. Remove any excess glue before it dries, using a paper towel
soaked with water, and use pieces of masking tape to hold the side windows in
place until the glue fully cures.
PRO TIP Before installing the side windows, carefully paint the inside edges of the window openings in the fuselage at black. This
will enhance the appearance of the window frames.
q # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver
q Modeling Knife
q (1) Right Wing Strut
q (1) Left Wing Strut
q (6) M3 x 10mm Machine Screws
q (6) M3 Flat Washers
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Airplane Stand
WING STRUTS INSTALLATION
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
q Cut away the covering material from over the four wing strut mounting holes
in the bottom of the wing. Two holes are located in each wing panel, 24-1/8"
(613mm) out from the centreline of the wing. The two forward holes are
located 5" (127mm) in front of the aileron hinge line and the two rear holes
are located 1-1/2" (38mm) in front of the aileron hinge line.
STEP 1: INSTALLING THE WING STRUTS
q Cut away the covering material from over the two wing strut mounting holes
in the bottom of the fuselage. Each hole is located 5/8" (16mm) behind the
main landing gear bracket and 1/2" (13mm) in from the fuselage sides.
q Install the wing onto the fuselage.
q Install the left wing strut onto the fuselage, using one M3 x 10mm machine
screw and one M3 at washer. Don't tighten the machine screw yet. Leave it
loose until after you secure the wing strut to the wing.
IMPORTANT The wing struts will t only one way. When installed, the shorter length of the strut should be toward the leading edge
of the wing and the longer portion of the strut should be toward the trailing edge of the wing.
q (2) 27-1/2" (700mm) Threaded Wires with 90º Bends
q (1) 26-3/4" (680mm) Threaded Wire
q (3) Nylon Control Horns with Backplates
q (3) Nylon Clevises
q (2) Nylon Snap-Keepers
q (2) Wheel Collars with Grub Screws
q (6) M2 x 20mm Machine Screws
q (9) C/A-Style Hinges
ELEVATOR AND RUDDER CONTROL SYSTEMS
q (4) 2-3/4" (70mm) Threaded Wires with 90º Bends
q (4) Nylon Control Horns with Backplates
q (4) Nylon Clevises
q (4) Nylon Snap-Keepers
q (8) M2 x 25mm Machine Screws
q (14) C/A-Style Hinges
AILERON AND FLAP CONTROL SYSTEMS
q (2) Engine Mounting Beams
q (4) M3 x 25mm Socket-Cap Screws
q (4) M3 x 20mm Machine Screws
q (4) M3 Lock Nuts
q (4) M3 Blind Nuts
q (12) M3 Flat Washers
ENGINE MOUNT ASSEMBLY - GLOW VERSION
q (1) Plywood Motor Mounting Box
q (4) Balsa Triangle Supports
q (4) M3 x 16mm Machine Screws
q (4) M3 Blind Nuts
q (4) M3 Flat Washers
MOTOR MOUNT ASSEMBLY - ELECTRIC VERSION
q (1) 320cc Fuel Tank
q (3) Aluminium Tubes
q (1) Rubber Stopper
q (1) Metal Plate - Small
q (1) Metal Plate - Large
q (1) Fuel Pick-up (Clunk)
q (1) Silicone Fuel Tubing
q (1) Metal Support Ring
q (1) M3 x 20mm Machine Screw
FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY
q (1) Right Wing Strut
q (1) Left Wing Strut
q (6) M3 x 10mm Machine Screws
q (6) M3 Flat Washers
WING STRUT ASSEMBLIES
Page 8 Page 33
q (2) M4 x 35mm Machine Screws
q (2) M4 Flat Washers
q (1) M3 x 12mm Machine Screw
q (1) M3 x 10mm Machine Screw
q (2) M3 Flat Washers
MISCELLANEOUS WING PARTS
q (1) Cowling
q (1) Windshield
q (1) Side Windows Set
q (1) Battery Tray (for Electric Version)
q (4) Plywood Filler Blocks
q (4) M2 x 10mm Flange-Head Wood Screws
q (1) Decal Set (Not Pictured)
MISCELLANEOUS FUSELAGE PARTS
q Thin C/A
q C/A Debonder
q #1 and # 2 Phillips Head Screwdrivers
q Modeling Knife
q Electric Drill
q 1/16" (1.6mm) Drill Bit
q (1) Right Wing Panel with Aileron and Flap
q (1) Left Wing Panel with Aileron and Flap
q (14) C/A-Style Hinges
q (1) M3 x 12mm Machine Screw
q (1) M3 x 10mm Machine Screw
q (2) M3 Flat Washers
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Pencil
q T-Pins
q Paper Towels
q Heat-Shrink Tubing
q Heat Gun
WING ASSEMBLY
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
STEP 1: HINGING THE AILERONS
IMPORTANT The hinges are NOT glued into place from the factory, they are simply slid into place dry for shipping purposes. You
must glue them into place.
C/A-style hinges are used to hinge the control surfaces. These hinges are designed to be glued into place using thin C/A. Do not
glue the hinges into place using any other type of glue, such as thick C/A or epoxy. Use of any adhesive other than thin C/A could
result in failure of the hinges during ight.
For utter-free control surfaces and crisp control response, it is imperative that the hinges be glued in properly. This is achieved by
having a tight hinge gap (no more than 1/32" (1mm) wide) and using plenty of thin C/A glue. Poor hinge installation can lead to control
surface utter which can result in a catastrophic failure of the airframe.
PRO TIP The T-Pins will keep the hinges centred and square to the hinge
line while you are hinging the aileron.
q Working with one wing panel for now, remove the aileron, the ap, and the
C/A-style hinges from the wing panel.
q Push two T-Pins through the centre of each of the four aileron hinges.
q Mark and cut out the areas of the cowling necessary to give you access to
your engine's high and low speed needle valves, and the mufer. You should
also install an in-cowl fueling valve in a convenient location on the side or
bottom of the cowling so that you can ll the fuel tank.
q Install the cowling, using four M2 x 10mm ange-head wood screws, then
install your propeller.
q Formula 560 Canopy Glue
q Scissors
q 220 Grit Sandpaper
q Sanding Block
q (1) Windshield q (1) Side Windows Set
q Masking Tape
q Small Paint Brush (Optional)
q Flat Black Paint (Optional)
WINDSHIELD AND SIDE WINDOWS INSTALLATION
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
q Cut out the windshield along the moulded scribe line.
q Sand the edges of the windshield smooth and straight.
STEP 1: ALIGNING AND INSTALLING THE WINDSHIELD
q Place the windshield onto the fuselage. When aligned correctly, the top edge
of the windshield should be even with the back edge of the wing mounting
bulkhead, and the sides and base of the windshield should t ush against the
sides and front of the fuselage.
IMPORTANT The sides of the windshield may overlap the angled
window posts. If so, carefully trim the sides of the windshield so that they
don't overlap.
q When satised with the alignment, glue the windshield into place using Formula 560 Canopy Glue. Remove any excess glue before it
dries, using a paper towel soaked with water, and use pieces of masking tape to hold the windshield in place until the glue fully cures.
q Cut out each of the side windows, making sure to leave a 1/4" (6mm) lip
around the edge of the side windows to use as a gluing surface.
STEP 2: INSTALLING THE SIDE WINDOWS
Page 32 Page 9
q Thin C/A
q # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
q Adjustable Wrench
q Modeling Knife
q Electric Drill
q 1/16" (1,6mm) Drill Bit
q (1) Cowling q (4) M2 x 10mm Flange-Head Wood Screws
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Pencil
q Rotary Tool with Cutting Disc and Sanding Drum
q 220 Grit Sandpaper
q Sanding Block
q Masking Tape
COWLING INSTALLATION
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
STEP 1: ALIGNING THE COWLING
q Remove the high speed needle valve and the mufer assembly from your engine and set them aside.
WARNING To prevent dust and debris from entering your engine during the tting and aligning of the cowling, we strongly suggest
covering your engine's exhaust port, carburetor opening and needle valve inlet with small pieces of paper towel.
q Temporarily slide the cowling onto the fuselage, then install your propeller.
q Line up the front of the cowling, using the drive washer as a guide. When
aligned properly, the propeller cutout in the cowling should be centred around
the drive washer and the front of the cowling should be approximately 1/8"
(3mm) behind the propeller. The back of the cowling should be centred around
the fuselage when viewed from both the front and the top.
IMPORTANT The steps in this section detail aligning and installing the cowling whether you're using a glow engine or a brushless
electric motor. If you're using a glow engine, you will need to cut out the cowling to t over your engine's cylinder head before you can
align the cowling. If you're using a brushless electric motor, you should skip the procedures related to cutting out the cowling.
q Measure and mark the locations on the cowling that you must cut out to clear your engine's cylinder head, then carefully cut out the
cowling. Work slowly, removing small amounts of material at a time, and checking the t often.
q When satised with the alignment, use pieces of masking tape to hold the cowling securely to the fuselage.
q With the cowling held rmly in alignment, drill four 1/16" (1.6mm) diameter
pilot holes through the cowling and into the fuselage for the wood screws. Two
holes should be positioned on the top of the cowling and two holes should be
positioned on the bottom of the cowling. Position each of the four holes 1/8"
(3mm) in front of the back edge of the cowling.
STEP 2: INSTALLING THE COWLING
q Remove the cowling and apply a couple of drops of thin C/A into the four
pilot holes and allow the C/A to fully cure.
IMPORTANT The C/A will harden the surrounding wood, making the
mounting area stronger. Do not omit this procedure.
q Push the aileron and hinges into the corresponding four hinge slots in the
trailing edge of the wing panel.
q Slide one hinge into each of the four hinge slots in the aileron, making sure
that you push each hinge in up to the T-Pins.
IMPORTANT Don't glue the hinges into the aileron yet.
q Allow the C/A to dry for about 15 minutes, then pivot the aileron up and down several times to free up the hinges.
q Remove the T-Pins and push the aileron up against the trailing edge. There
should be no more than a 1/32" (1mm) wide hinge gap and there should be a
1/16" (1.5mm) gap between the end of the aileron and the outer edge of the
wing panel.
q While holding the aileron tight against the trailing edge, pivot the aileron
down 45º and apply 5-6 drops of thin C/A to the exposed area of each hinge,
then turn the wing panel over and repeat for the other side of the hinges.
IMPORTANT Check the integrity of the hinges after the C/A fully cures by gently pulling on the aileron. If one or more hinges
feels loose, apply more C/A to the hinge(s) and allow it to completely cure. The last thing you want is for a hinge to come loose
during ight.
q Repeat the previous procedures to hinge the aileron to the second wing panel.
STEP 2: HINGING THE FLAPS
q Working with one wing panel and ap for now, push two T-Pins through the centre of each of the three ap hinges.
q Slide one hinge into each of the three hinge slots in the ap, making sure
that you push each hinge in up to the T-Pins.
IMPORTANT Don't glue the hinges into the ap yet.
q Hinge the ap to the wing panel, using the same techniques that you used
to hinge the aileron to the wing panel. As with the ailerons, there should be no
more than a 1/32" (1mm) wide hinge gap and both ends of the ap should be
centred between the end of the aileron and the inside edge of the wing panel.
+ You will only be able to deect the ap down, but you should still be able
to apply glue to the bottom of the hinges, even with the ap centred.
Page 10 Page 31
q Allow the C/A to dry for about 15 minutes, then pivot the ap down several times to free up the hinges.
IMPORTANT Check the integrity of the hinges after the C/A fully cures by gently pulling on the ap. If one or more hinges feels loose,
apply more C/A to the hinge(s) and allow it to completely cure. The last thing you want is for a hinge to come loose during ight.
q Repeat the previous procedures to hinge the ap to the second wing panel.
STEP 3: INSTALLING THE AILERON AND FLAP SERVOS
q Working with one wing panel for now, cut away the covering material from
over the aileron servo mounting hole. The servo mounting hole is located
20-3/4" (527mm) out from the root edge of the wing panel and 2-1/2" (64mm)
in front of the aileron hinge line.
q Cut away the covering material from over the servo lead exit hole in the
bottom of the wing panel. The servo lead exit hole is located at the root end of
the wing panel, 6-1/4" (159mm) in front of the trailing edge.
q Plug one 12" (305mm) servo extension onto the aileron servo lead.
q To prevent the plugs from pulling apart during assembly, or worse, during
ight, secure the plugs together, using a short piece of 3/8" (10mm) diameter
heat-shrink tubing (not included). Use a heat gun to shrink the tubing.
q Cut away the covering material from over the ap servo mounting hole.
The servo mounting hole is located 7-3/4" (197mm) out from the root edge of
the wing panel and 2-1/2" (64mm) in front of the ap hinge line.
q Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto one aileron servo, making sure to install the collets with the anges toward the
bottom of the servo.
q Run the aileron servo extension lead through the guide tube in the front of
the aileron servo mounting hole and out through the servo lead exit hole.
IMPORTANT You will need to run the aileron servo lead through the ap
servo opening and into the separate guide tube at the front of the ap servo
mounting hole.
STEP 2: INSTALLING THE AILERON PUSHROD ASSEMBLIES
q Cut away all but one arm from a "4-point" servo horn, then enlarge the hole that is 1/2" (13mm) out from the centre of the servo horn,
using a 5/64" (2mm) diameter drill bit.
q Install the 90º bend in one pushrod wire into the hole that you enlarged in
the servo arm, using one snap-keeper.
+ The pushrod wire should be orientated on top of the servo arm.
q Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between one aileron and the wing panel, to hold the aileron centred.
q Centre the aileron servo, then install the servo horn onto the servo, making
sure that the servo horn is centred and pointing out toward the wing tip.
q With both the servo horn and the aileron centred, thread one clevis onto
the pushrod wire and snap the clevis into the fourth hole out from the base
of the control horn.
STEP 3: INSTALLING THE FLAP CONTROL HORNS AND PUSHROD ASSEMBLIES
IMPORTANT So that both aps move together when raised and lowered, it's important that the two ap servo horns point the same
direction (i.e., both servo horns should point to the right). This also means that the two ap control horns will be located in different
positions on each ap. If the control linkages are installed with the two ap servo horns pointing opposite each other (like the ailerons),
each ap will move in a different direction when raised and lowered.
q Install the ap control horn and pushrod assembly on the left wing panel,
using the same techniques that you used to install the aileron control horns
and pushrod assemblies.
IMPORTANT The servo horn should point toward the wing tip and the
control horn should be 5-1/2" (140mm) out from the inboard edge of the ap
(measured at the hinge line).
q Install the ap control horn and pushrod assembly on the right wing panel,
using the same techniques that you used to install the ap control horn and
pushrod assembly on the left wing panel.
IMPORTANT The servo horn should point toward the root end of the wing
panel and the control horn should be 4-38" (111mm) out from the inboard
edge of the ap (measured at the hinge line).
q Cut away all but one arm from two "4-point" servo horns, then enlarge the hole that is 1/2" (13mm) out from the centre of each servo
horn, using a 5/64" (2mm) diameter drill bit.
q Install the servo horn retaining screw to secure the servo horn to the servo.
q Remove the masking tape and double-check that both the servo horn and the aileron are still centred. If necessary, thread the
clevis in or out to centre the aileron, then move the aileron up and down several times to ensure proper movement.
q Repeat the previous procedures to install the second aileron pushrod assembly onto the other wing panel.
Page 30 Page 11
q Install the 90º bend in the pushrod wire into the hole that you enlarged in
the servo arm, using one snap-keeper.
+ The pushrod wire should be orientated on top of the servo arm.
q Carefully slide the pushrod wire into the rudder pushrod wire guide tube.
q Centre the rudder servo and install the servo horn onto the servo, making
sure that the servo horn is centred and points toward the right side of the
fuselage.
q Install the servo horn retaining screw to secure the servo horn to the servo.
q Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the rudder and the
stabiliser, to hold the rudder centred.
q Thread a clevis onto the pushrod wire, then snap the clevis into the
outermost hole in the control horn.
q Remove the masking tape and double-check that both the rudder servo horn and the rudder are still centred. If necessary, thread
the clevis in or out to centre the rudder, then move the rudder right and left several times to ensure proper movement.
q Thin C/A
q # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
q Wire Cutters
q Modeling Knife
q Electric Drill
q (4) 2-3/4" (70mm) Threaded Wires with 90º Bends
q (4) Nylon Control Horns with Backplates
q (4) Nylon Clevises
q (4) Nylon Snap-Keepers
q (8) M2 x 25mm Machine Screws
q 5/64" (2mm) Drill Bit
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Pencil
q Masking Tape
AILERON AND FLAP CONTROL SYSTEMS INSTALLATION
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
q Install one control horn onto the bottom of each aileron, using the same
techniques that you used to install the elevator and rudder control horns. The
centreline of each control horn should be 3-1/4" (83mm) out from the inside
edge of the aileron (measured at the hinge line) and the clevis attachment holes
should be lined up over the hinge line. The base of the control horn should be
parallel to the hinge line, too.
STEP 1: INSTALLING THE AILERON CONTROL HORNS
q Install the ap servo into the wing panel, using the same techniques that
you used to install the aileron servo.
+ It's not necessary to install a servo extension onto the ap servo lead.
IMPORTANT Note the orientation of the servo. Again, the servo output
shaft should be toward the leading edge of the wing.
q Repeat the previous procedures to install both the aileron servo and the ap servo into the second wing panel.
q Install the aileron servo into the mounting hole, using the mounting screws
provided with your aileron servo. Make sure to drill 1/16" (1.6mm) diameter pilot
holes for the mounting screws.
IMPORTANT Note the orientation of the servo. The servo output shaft
should be toward the leading edge of the wing.
STEP 4: JOINING THE WING PANELS
q Cut away the covering material from over the two wing joiner mounting holes
in the bottom of the left wing panel. The forward mounting hole is located 7"
(178mm) out from the root end of the wing panel and 5" (127mm) in front of
the trailing edge. The rear mounting hole is located 4" (102mm) out from the
root end of the wing panel and 1-5/8" (41mm) in front of the ap hinge line.
q Carefully slide the two wing panels together and double-check that the wing
panels are lined up at both the leading and trailing edges.
IMPORTANT The two wing panels are designed to be taken apart for easier transport. Do not glue the two wing panels together! The
two wing panels are secured together using two M3 machine screws, in addition to the wing mounting dowels and the wing mounting
screws that are used to mount the wing to the fuselage.
q With the two wing panels pushed rmly together, install and GENTLY
tighten the M3 machine screws and two M3 at washers into each of the two
mounting holes to lock the wing panels together. The 12mm long machine
screw is installed in the forward mounting hole and the 10mm long machine
screw is installed in the rear mounting hole.
IMPORTANT Each aluminium spar has a notch milled into it that the machine screws will tighten down into. Even with the machine
screws tightened down, you may be able to pull the wing panels apart very slightly. This is normal and won't be possible when the
wing is mounted to the fuselage.
Page 12 Page 29
q 30 Minute Epoxy
q Thin C/A
q C/A Debonder
q # 1 and # 2 Phillips Head Screwdrivers
q Modeling Knife
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Pencil
q Builder's Triangle
q (1) Fuselage
q (1) Horizontal Stabiliser with Elevator Halves
q (1) Vertical Stabiliser with Rudder
q (9) C/A-Style Hinges
q (2) M4 x 35mm Machine Screws
q (2) M4 Flat Washers
q 220 Grit Sandpaper
q Sanding Block
q Masking Tape
q T-Pins
q Paper Towels
q Rubbing Alcohol
q Epoxy Mixing Sticks
q Epoxy Mixing Cups
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
STEP 1: MOUNTING THE WING
q Cut away the covering material from over the top and bottom of the two
predrilled wing-screw mounting holes in the trailing edge of the wing. The holes
are located 1-1/8" (29mm) in front of the trailing edge and 1-3/4" (44mm) out
from the centre-section joint.
q Cut away the covering material from over the two wing-dowel mounting
holes in the wing mounting bulkhead.
q Place the wing into the wing saddle, push it forward completely, then push
the trailing edge down into place.
q Align the holes in the wing with the predrilled holes in the wing mounting
block inside the fuselage.
q Secure the wing into place, using two M4 x 35mm machine screws and two
M4 at washers.
q Cut away the covering material from over each side of the horizontal stabiliser
mounting slot in the fuselage. The stabiliser mounting slot is 1/4" (6mm) wide
and 5-1/4" (133mm) long.
q Thin C/A
q # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
q Wire Cutters
q Modeling Knife
q Electric Drill
q (1) 27-1/2" (700mm) Threaded Wire with 90º Bend
q (1) Nylon Control Horn with Backplate
q (1) Nylon Clevis
q (1) Nylon Snap-Keeper
q (2) M2 x 20mm Machine Screws
q 1/16" (1.6mm) and 5/64" (2mm) Drill Bits
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Pencil
q Masking Tape
RUDDER CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
STEP 1: INSTALLING THE RUDDER SERVO
q Install the rudder servo into the centre of the servo tray, making sure to drill
1/16" (1.6mm) diameter pilot holes for the servo mounting screws.
IMPORTANT Note the orientation of the servo. When installed, the servo
output shaft should be toward the front of the fuselage.
STEP 2: INSTALLING THE RUDDER CONTROL HORN
q Cut away the covering material from over the rudder pushrod exit hole in the
left side of the fuselage. The pushrod exit hole is located 4" (102mm) in front
of the rudder hinge line and 7/8" (22mm) up from the bottom of the fuselage.
q Install the control horn onto the left side of the rudder, using the same
techniques that you used to install the elevator control horns. The centreline
of the control horn should be 3/8" (10mm) up from the bottom of the rudder
(measured at the hinge line) and the clevis attachment holes should be lined
up over the hinge line. The base of the control horn should be parallel to the
hinge line, too.
IMPORTANT Before installing the control horn in the next procedure, remember to apply a couple of drops of thin C/A into the
mounting holes to reinforce the surrounding wood.
STEP 3: INSTALLING THE RUDDER PUSHROD ASSEMBLY
q Cut away all but one arm from a "4-point" servo horn, then enlarge the hole that is 1/2" (13mm) out from the centre of the servo horn,
using a 5/64" (2mm) diameter drill bit.
Page 28 Page 13
q Install the control horn and backplate, using two M2 x 20mm machine
screws, then use wire cutters to cut the top of the screws off flush with
the control horn backplate.
q Repeat the previous procedures to install the second control horn onto the
other elevator half.
STEP 3: INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR PUSHROD ASSEMBLY
q Slide the two wheel collars over the longer pushrod, then install the 90º bend
in the pushrod wire into the hole that you enlarged in the servo arm, using one
snap-keeper.
+ The pushrod wire should be orientated on top of the servo arm.
q Cut away all but one arm from a "4-point" servo horn, then enlarge the hole that is 1/2" (13mm) out from the centre of the servo horn,
using a 5/64" (2mm) diameter drill bit.
IMPORTANT When you install the grub screws in the next procedure, rst apply thread locking compound to the threads to ensure
that the grub screws don't loosen during ight.
q Carefully slide the pushrod wires into the elevator pushrod wire guide
tubes.
q Centre the elevator servo and install the servo horn onto the servo,
making sure that the servo horn is centred and points toward the centre of the
fuselage.
q Install the servo horn retaining screw to secure the servo horn to the servo.
q Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the elevator halves
and the stabiliser, to hold the elevator halves centred.
q Thread one clevis onto each pushrod wire, then snap the clevises into the
fourth hole out from the base of the control horns.
q Remove the masking tape and double-check that both the elevator servo horn and the elevator halves are still centred. If necessary,
thread the clevises in or out to centre the elevator halves, then move the elevator halves up and down several times to ensure proper
movement. Both elevator halves should be even with each other and they should both produce the same amount of control throw
throughout the entire up and down deection range.
q Slide the plain end of the shorter pushrod wire through the two wheel collars.
q Adjust the shorter pushrod wire so that the threaded end of both pushrod
wires are even with each other, then install and tighten the grub screw in each
wheel collar to secure the two pushrod wires together.
IMPORTANT When tightening the grub screws, make sure that the two
pushrod wires stay at and don't twist up.
q Cut away the covering material from over the top and bottom of the
vertical stabiliser mounting slot in the leading edge of the horizontal stabiliser.
The mounting slot is 1/4" (6mm) wide and 1" (25mm) long.
q Slide the stabiliser into the mounting slot and temporarily align it. The trailing
edge should be even with the back edge of the fuselage and the centreline
mark you drew should be centred between the sides of the fuselage.
q When satised with the alignment, hold ONLY the trailing edge of the
stabiliser in position using a T-Pin.
IMPORTANT The front of the stabiliser should be able to pivot from side to side and the back should stay rmly in place and aligned.
The trailing edge should not be allowed to move from side to side.
q With the wing mounted to the fuselage, use a ruler to measure the distance
between the tips of the stabiliser and the tips of the wing. Pivot the front of the
stabiliser until both of these measurements are equal.
+ When both of these measurements are equal, you're assured that the
stabiliser is square to the wing.
q When you're satised that the stabiliser is square to the wing, use a T-Pin
to hold the front of the stabiliser rmly in place and aligned.
q Remove the elevator halves and hinges from the horizontal stabiliser and set them aside for now.
q Measure and draw a centreline mark on the trailing edge of the stabiliser.
IMPORTANT The top of the stabiliser has the red covering on the tips. Make sure that when you install the stabiliser in the next
procedure below that the red tips are toward the top of the fuselage.
A A-1
Page 14 Page 27
WARNING When cutting through the covering material to remove it in the next procedure, cut with only enough pressure to cut through
only the covering material itself. Cutting down into the balsa structure could weaken the stabiliser and cause it to fail during ight.
q Remove the stabiliser from the fuselage, then carefully cut away the
covering material from inside the lines you drew.
PRO TIP Use a heat-sealing iron to adhere the covering material down
where you cut it. This will prevent it from loosening up and wrinkling.
q When satised with the alignment, draw a line on each side of the stabiliser
where it meets the fuselage sides. Do this on both the top and the bottom.
q To make it less messy during installation, apply strips of masking tape to
both sides of the fuselage around the mounting slot, and to the top and the
bottom of the stabiliser, too.
q Apply a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy to the gluing surfaces of both the stabiliser and the fuselage.
q Push the stabiliser into place and realign it, double-checking all of your measurements once more before the epoxy sets up. Remove
any excess epoxy and use T-Pins to hold the stabiliser in place and aligned until the epoxy has fully cured.
q Look from the front of the aircraft at both the wing and the stabiliser. When
aligned properly, the stabiliser should be parallel to the wing.
+ If the stabiliser is not parallel to the wing, remove the stabiliser and sand
down the higher side of the stabiliser mounting slot until you're satised with
the alignment.
STEP 4: ALIGNING AND INSTALLING THE VERTICAL STABILISER
q Cut away the covering material from over the stabiliser mounting slot in the
top of the fuselage. The stabiliser mounting slot is 1/4" (6mm) wide and 6-3/8"
(162mm) long.
B B-1
q Thin C/A
q Thread Locking Compound
q # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
q 1.5mm Hex Wrench
q Wire Cutters
q Modeling Knife
q (1) 27-1/2" (700mm) Threaded Wire with 90º Bend
q (1) 26-3/4" (680mm) Threaded Wire
q (2) Nylon Control Horns with Backplates
q (2) Nylon Clevises
q (1) Nylon Snap-Keeper
q (2) Wheel Collars with Grub Screws
q (4) M2 x 20mm Machine Screws
q Electric Drill
q 1/16" (1.6mm) and 5/64" (2mm) Drill Bits
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Pencil
q Masking Tape
ELEVATOR CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
STEP 1: INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR SERVO
q Install the elevator servo into the left side of the servo tray (up against the
edge), making sure to drill 1/16" (1.6mm) diameter pilot holes for the servo
mounting screws.
IMPORTANT Note the orientation of the servo. When installed, the servo
output shaft should be toward the front of the fuselage.
STEP 2: INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR CONTROL HORNS
q Cut away the covering material from over the elevator pushrod exit hole in
each side of the fuselage. The pushrod exit holes are located 4" (102mm) in
front of the rudder hinge line and 1-1/8" (29mm) below the stabiliser.
q Position and mark the mounting hole locations for one control horn on the
bottom of one elevator half. When aligned properly, the centreline of the control
horn should be 1" (25mm) out from the fuselage side (measured at the hinge
line) and the clevis attachment holes should be lined up over the hinge line.
The base of the control horn should be angled slightly toward the fuselage side
so that it will line up with the pushrod wire.
q Drill 5/64" (2mm) diameter pilot holes through the elevator half for the control
horn mounting screws, then apply a couple of drops of thin C/A into the pilot
holes and allow the C/A to fully cure.
+ The C/A will harden the surrounding wood, making the mounting area
stronger.
Page 26 Page 15
q Secure one end of the silicone fuel tubing onto the end of the clunk.
q Slide the silicone fuel tubing, with the clunk attached, onto the end of the
aluminium fuel pick-up tube (straight tube). Adjust the length of the silicone
tubing until the end of the clunk is 4" (102mm) back from the rear of the stopper
assembly.
STEP 2: INSTALLING THE RUBBER STOPPER ASSEMBLY
q Push the metal neck-reinforcement ring over the neck of the fuel tank
opening, then carefully push the stopper assembly into the fuel tank and rotate
it until the aluminium vent tube rests just inside the moulded bubble in the top
of the fuel tank.
q When satised with the alignment, install and tighten the M3 x 18mm
machine screw until the rubber stopper expands and seals the fuel tank
opening.
q With the stopper assembly installed, double-check to make sure that the clunk can move freely inside the fuel tank. Ideally, the clunk
should be about 1/4" (6mm) in front of the back of the fuel tank. This will ensure that the clunk can't get stuck in the fuel tank during
ight. Also double-check that the end of the vent tube rests just inside the moulded bubble in the top of the fuel tank.
PRO TIP Holding the fuel tank up to a bright light will allow you to see inside to double-check the correct position of the clunk and
the vent tube.
STEP 3: INSTALLING THE FUEL TANK
q Cut two pieces of silicone fuel tubing (not included) to a length of 4" (102mm)
and install them to the aluminium tubes at the front of the fuel tank.
PRO TIP Mark the ends of the silicone tubing "vent" and "pick-up" so you don't confuse them when it comes time to connect them
to the engine later on.
IMPORTANT When you install the fuel tank in the next procedure, make sure that the top of the fuel tank is toward the top of
the fuselage.
q Glue a scrap piece of balsa or light plywood directly behind the fuel tank (to
keep it from sliding backward) and use pieces of foam rubber, wedged between
the fuel tank and the fuel tank support bulkhead, to hold the fuel tank securely
in place.
q Feed the ends of the fuel tubing through the predrilled hole in the rewall and slide the fuel tank into position, making sure that the
stopper assembly lines up with, and is rmly pushed into, the predrilled hole in the rewall.
q Remove the stabiliser and carefully cut away the covering material from
within the outline you drew. Cut away the covering material from both sides of
the stabiliser below the lines you drew and from the base of the stabiliser, too.
q Glue the stabiliser into place, using 30 minute epoxy. Double-check the
alignment once more before the epoxy sets up, then wipe away any excess
epoxy, and use pieces of masking tape to hold the stabiliser in place until the
epoxy has fully cured.
IMPORTANT Use a builder's triangle to make sure that the vertical
stabiliser is perpendicular to the horizontal stabiliser.
STEP 5: HINGING THE ELEVATOR HALVES
IMPORTANT After allowing the C/A to fully cure, pull on the elevator halves to check the integrity of the hinges. Apply more C/A
to the hinge(s) if necessary.
q Hinge the elevator halves to the horizontal stabiliser, using the same
techniques that you used to hinge the ailerons and the aps to the wing. Each
elevator half is hinged using three hinges. When hinging the elevator halves,
the tip of each elevator half should be even with the tips of the stabiliser and
there should not be more than a 1/32" (1mm) wide hinge gap.
q Hinge the rudder to the vertical stabiliser, using the same techniques that
you used to hinge the elevator halves to the stabiliser. The rudder is hinged
using three hinges. When hinging the rudder, there should be a 1/16" (1.5mm)
wide gap between the rudder counter-balance and the top of the stabiliser, and
there should not be more than a 1/32" (1mm) wide hinge gap.
IMPORTANT As you did with the other control surfaces, after allowing the C/A to fully cure, pull on the rudder to check the integrity
of the hinges. Apply more C/A to the hinge(s) if necessary.
STEP 6: HINGING THE RUDDER
q Remove the rudder and hinges from the vertical stabiliser and set them
aside for now.
q Push the stabiliser down into the mounting slot, then draw a line on each
side of the stabiliser where it meets the top of the fuselage. Draw an outline
onto the fuselage around the base of the stabiliser, too.
Page 16 Page 25
q # 1 and # 2 Phillips Head Screwdrivers
q Electric Drill
q 5/64" (2mm) Drill Bit
q (1) Prebent Tail Wheel Wire
q (1) Tail Wheel
q (1) Nylon Tail Wheel Mounting Bracket
q (1) Nylon Steering Arm
q (1) Nylon Spacer
q (3) M3 x 12mm Wood Screws
q (1) M2 x 10mm Wood Screw
q (2) Wheel Collars
q (2) M3 x 6mm Machine Screws
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Pencil
q Rotary Tool with Cutting Disc
TAIL WHEEL INSTALLATION
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
STEP 1: ASSEMBLING THE TAIL WHEEL BRACKET
q Push one wheel collar into the top of the steering arm, making sure that the threaded hole in the wheel collar lines up with the hole
in the side of the steering arm, then partially thread one M3 x 6mm machine screw into the wheel collar.
q Push the tail wheel wire up through the tail wheel mounting bracket, then
slide the steering arm over the tail wheel wire and push it down against the
mounting bracket.
q Rotate both the tail wheel wire and the steering arm so that they face the
back of the mounting bracket. While holding the two in alignment, tighten the
machine screw, then cut the end of the tail wheel wire off ush with the top of
the steering arm.
STEP 2: INSTALLING THE TAIL WHEEL ASSEMBLY
q Place the tail wheel mounting bracket onto the fuselage, making sure that
the mounting bracket is centred and that the steering arm pivot point is even
with the rudder hinge line.
q When satised with the alignment, mark the locations of the three mounting
screws onto the fuselage.
q Drill three 5/64" (2mm) diameter pilot holes through the fuselage, then install
the tail wheel mounting bracket, using three M3 x 12mm wood screws.
q Push the steering arm mounting tabs over the bottom of the rudder.
q Thread the M2 x 10mm wood screw into one side of the steering arm
mounting bracket, through the rudder and into the other side of the steering
arm mounting bracket, to secure the steering arm to the rudder.
q Slide the adjustable pushrod connector assembly onto the pushrod wire,
then install the servo horn onto the servo, making sure that the servo horn is
angled approximately 30 degrees from centre.
q While holding the carburetor fully closed, install and tighten the machine
screw in the top of the adjustable pushrod connector.
q Cut away the excess pushrod wire, then install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw to hold the servo horn securely to the servo.
q Open and close the throttle several times to ensure that the carburetor opens and closes completely and without binding. You may
need to adjust your transmitter EPA settings to achieve perfect settings.
q # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver
q Modeling Knife
q Scissors
q (1) 320cc Fuel Tank
q (3) Aluminium Tubes
q (1) Rubber Stopper
q (1) Metal Plate - Small
q (1) Metal Plate - Large
q (1) Fuel Pick-up (Clunk)
q (1) Silicone Fuel Tubing
q (1) Metal Support Ring
q (1) M3 x 20mm Machine Screw
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Pencil
q 220 Grit Sandpaper
FUEL TANK INSTALLATION - GLOW VERSION
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
STEP 1: ASSEMBLING THE RUBBER STOPPER
q Slide the large diameter metal plate over the tubes at the front of the rubber
stopper, and slide the small diameter metal plate over the tubes at the rear of
the rubber stopper.
q Measure the distance that the two aluminium tubes protrude from the front
of the stopper assembly. This distance should be 3/8" (10mm).
IMPORTANT Discard the shortest aluminium tube. It will not be used if you're using an in-cowl fueling valve as suggested. If you
don't use an in-cowl fueling valve, use the shortest aluminium tube as the ll tube.
q Carefully bend the longer of the two aluminium tubes up at a shallow angle,
being careful not to kink the tubing as you bend it.
IMPORTANT When the stopper assembly is installed in the fuel tank, the
top of the vent tube should rest just inside the moulded bubble in the top
of the fuel tank.
q Use 220 grit sandpaper to lightly sand away any burrs that might be on the ends of the two aluminium tubes.
q Push the two aluminium tubes through the rubber stopper.
Page 24 Page 17
STEP 2: INSTALLING THE THROTTLE PUSHROD WIRE
q Mark the location of the throttle pushrod exit hole on the rewall.
IMPORTANT Mark the position of the hole as close to the same height
as the throttle arm as possible to prevent having to make bends in the
pushrod wire.
q Drill a 5/32" (4mm) diameter hole through the rewall for the pushrod wire.
+ We suggest that you remove the engine and motor mounting beams to
make it easier to drill the hole accurately.
IMPORTANT If you're using a four-stroke engine, we suggest elongating the pushrod hole slightly to ensure that the pushrod wire
doesn't bind when the throttle is opened and closed.
q Install the Z-Bend in the pushrod wire into the outermost hole in your engine's
throttle arm, then slide the pushrod wire through the hole both in the rewall
and the fuel tank support bulkhead, then reinstall your engine.
q Open and close the carburetor several times to ensure that the pushrod wire
does not bind. Depending on the engine you're using, it might be necessary to
make a shallow bend in the pushrod wire to achieve perfect alignment.
q Drill a 5/32" (4mm) diameter hole through the fuel tank support bulkhead,
making sure that the hole is lined up as closely as possible with the hole in
the rewall.
STEP 3: INSTALLING THE ADJUSTABLE PUSHROD CONNECTOR
IMPORTANT To prevent the nut from loosening during ight, apply a drop of thin C/A to it.
q Cut away all but one arm from a "4-point" servo horn, then enlarge the hole
in the servo arm that is 1/2" (13mm) out from the centre of the servo horn, using
a 5/64" (2mm) diameter drill bit.
q Install the adjustable pushrod connector onto the servo arm, making sure
not to tighten the nut too tightly. You don't want the pushrod connector loose,
but it should be able to rotate without binding.
q Connect your radio system and check that the throttle servo output shaft is rotating in the correct direction, then position the throttle
control stick and the throttle trim lever to their lowest positions.
q Centre the rudder, then loosen the machine screw in the steering arm and align the tail wheel wire with the bottom of the rudder.
When satised with the alignment, tighten the machine screw rmly.
q Slide the nylon spacer onto the axle, followed by the tail wheel.
STEP 3: INSTALLING THE TAIL WHEEL
q Secure the tail wheel to the axle, using the wheel collar and one M3 x 6mm
machine screw. After tightening the machine screw, make sure that the tail
wheel spins freely.
q Thin C/A
q # 1 and # 2 Phillips Head Screwdrivers
q 4mm and 7mm Nut Drivers
q Wire Cutters
q (1) Main Landing Gear Bracket
q (2) Main Gear Wheels
q (2) M4 x 35mm Machine Screws
q (6) M4 Flat Washers
q (4) M4 Lock Nuts
q (3) M3 x 16mm Machine Screws
q (3) M3 Flat Washers
q (2) Wheel Covers
q (2) Wire Struts
q (2) Bungee Covers
q (2) Bungee Cover Mounts
q (2) Rubber Bands
q (6) M2 x 6mm Wood Screws
q (8) M2 Flat Washers
q (8) M2 Hex Nuts
q Adjustable Wrench
q Needle Nose Pliers
q Modeling Knife
q Straight Edge Ruler
MAIN LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
STEP 1: INSTALLING THE MAIN LANDING GEAR BRACKET
q Cut away the covering material from over the three main landing gear bracket
mounting holes in the bottom of the fuselage. The two forward mounting holes
are located 5-1/2" (140mm) behind the front of the fuselage and 3/4" (19mm) in
from the fuselage sides. The rear hole is located in the centre of the fuselage,
7-1/4" (184mm) behind the front of the fuselage.
q Install the main landing gear bracket, using three M3 x 16mm machine
screws and three M3 at washers.
Page 18 Page 23
STEP 2: INSTALLING THE WIRE STRUTS
q Slide one bungee cover onto the lower (longer) section of each wire strut.
q Carefully bend the end of the lower section of each wire strut to the same
angle as the upper section. Each bend should start just above the top of the
threads.
q Firmly push one bungee cover mount into the slot in each bungee cover,
making sure that the ends of the bungee cover mount are even with the ends
of the bungee covers.
q Position the centre of each bungee cover 1-1/2" (38mm) from the bend in
the middle of the wire struts, then glue the bungee covers into place, using
thin C/A.
q Thread one M2 hex nut onto the lower section of one wire strut, just below
the top of the threads, then slide one M2 at washer against the hex nut.
q Slide the end of the wire strut through the lower mounting hole in one side of
the main landing gear bracket, then install a second M2 at washer and M2 hex
nut on the outside of the wire strut. Don't tighten the hex nuts yet, though.
q Repeat the two procedures above to install the lower section of the second strut onto the other half of the main landing gear bracket.
q Hook the two rubber bands over the upper section of each wire strut.
q Install the upper section of the two wire struts into the upper holes in the
main landing gear bracket, using four M2 at washers and four M2 hex nuts.
Again, don't tighten the hex nuts yet.
q Adjust the two struts so that they are even with each other when viewed
from the front by loosening and/or tightening each of the hex nuts.
q When satised with the alignment, tighten the hex nuts gently, then cut off
the excess threaded wire and apply a drop of thin C/A to each of the hex nuts
to keep them from coming loose during ight.
q Remove the engine and drill 5/64" (2mm) diameter pilot holes through the
engine mounting beams at the marks you drew, then enlarge the pilot holes,
using a 1/8" (1.6mm) diameter drill bit.
IMPORTANT When you drill the holes through the engine mounting beams in the next procedure, be careful that you drill the holes
straight down and not at an angle.
q Install the engine onto the engine mounting beams using four M3 x 25mm
socket-cap screws, eight M3 at washers and four M3 lock nuts.
q Thin C/A
q # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
q Wire Cutters
q Needle Nose Pliers
q Modeling Knife
q (1) 14-1/2" (368mm) Pushrod Wire with Z-Bend q (1) Adjustable Pushrod Connector with Nut and Machine Screw
q Electric Drill
q 1/16" (1.6mm), 5/64" (2mm) and 5/32" (4mm) Drill Bits
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Pencil
THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION - GLOW VERSION
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
STEP 1: INSTALLING THE THROTTLE SERVO
IMPORTANT This section details the installation of the throttle control system for a glow engine. If you are using a brushless electric
motor, please skip to the Elevator Control System Installation section on page 27.
q Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto your throttle servo, making sure to install the collets with the anges toward the
bottom of the servo.
q Install the throttle servo into the right side of the plywood servo tray (up
against the edge), making sure to drill 1/16" (1.6mm) diameter pilot holes for
the servo mounting screws.
IMPORTANT Note the orientation of the servo. When installed, the servo
output shaft should be toward the front of the fuselage.
q Mark the locations of the engine mounting holes onto the engine mounting beams.
Page 22 Page 19
q Measure the distance between the holes in the two engine mounting beams.
As an example, for the Magnum XL .52RFS engine used in this aircraft,
the distance between the holes in the two beams is 1-13/16" (46mm). Your
measurement may differ if you are using a different size engine. It depends on
the width of the engine's crankcase.
q Divide the measurement found in the previous procedure in half, then
measure this resulting distance and draw one line above and one line below
the horizontal thrust line.
q Draw one line 7/8" (22mm) to the right of the vertical thrust line and draw
a second line 9/16" (14mm) to the left of the vertical thrust line.
IMPORTANT Double-check that the four intersecting lines line up with the
four engine mounting beam holes.
q Drill a 1/8" (3mm) diameter pilot hole through the rewall at each of the four
intersecting lines.
q Remove your engine from the engine mounting beams.
q Install the two engine mounting beams, using four M3 x 16mm machine
screws, four M3 at washers and four M3 blind nuts. Firmly tighten each of the
machine screws to draw the blind nuts into the back of the rewall.
STEP 3: INSTALLING YOUR ENGINE
q Temporarily install your propeller onto your engine's crankshaft, using the
propeller washer and nut included with your engine.
q Set your engine onto the engine mounting beams, then measure the distance
from the rewall to the back edge of the propeller (at the hub). Adjust the depth
of the engine so that the measurement is 4-7/8" (124mm).
STEP 3: INSTALLING THE MAIN GEAR WHEELS
q Slide one main gear wheel onto one M4 x 35mm machine screw.
q Slide one M4 at washer up against the main gear wheel, then install and
loosely tighten one M4 lock nut against the wheel.
IMPORTANT When the lock nut is tightened, the main gear wheel should still spin freely. If it doesn't, loosen the lock nut just enough
to allow the main gear wheel to spin freely.
q Slide one M4 at washer onto the machine screw and up against the lock
nut, then install the wheel assembly onto the main landing gear bracket, using
one M4 at washer and one M4 lock nut.
+ Tighten the lock nut securely while holding the machine screw in place
with a phillips head screwdriver.
IMPORTANT One side of each main gear wheel is milled to t the head of the machine screw. This is the outside of the wheel and
also has predrilled holes for the wheel cover.
q Install one wheel cover onto each wheel, using six M2 x 6mm wood
screws.
q 5 Minute Epoxy
q # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Paper Towels
q (1) Plywood Motor Mounting Box
q (4) Balsa Triangle Supports
q (4) M3 x 16mm Machine Screws
q (4) M3 Blind Nuts
q (4) M3 Flat Washers
q Rubbing Alcohol
q Epoxy Mixing Sticks
q Epoxy Mixing Cups
MOTOR INSTALLATION - ELECTRIC VERSION
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
q Repeat the previous procedures to install the second main gear wheel assembly onto the main landing gear bracket.
IMPORTANT This section details the installation of an brushless electric motor. If you will be using a glow engine, please skip to
the Engine Installation - Glow Version section on page 21.
Page 20 Page 21
q Install the propeller adapter (included with your motor) onto your brushless
outrunner motor, following the procedures in your motor's user's guide.
q Install the backplate mount (included with your motor) onto your brushless
outrunner motor, following the procedures in your motor's user's guide.
q Install your motor to the motor mounting box, using four M3 x 16mm machine
screws, four M3 at washers and four M3 blind nuts. Tighten the machine
screws rmly to draw the blind nuts into the back of the motor mounting box.
STEP 3: INSTALLING THE MOTOR MOUNTING BOX ASSEMBLY
q Temporarily install the propeller onto your motor.
q To ensure that the cowling will line up properly with the crankshaft, the
back edge of the propeller (at the hub) should be 5" (127mm) in front of the
back edge of the motor mounting box. If the distance is shorter you will need
to install a shim behind the motor to space it to the correct distance.
q Test-t and glue the motor mounting box assembly onto the rewall, using
a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy.
+ The motor mounting box has no specic top or bottom. It can be installed
in either direction.
STEP 1: INSTALLING YOUR MOTOR MOUNT AND PROPELLER ADAPTER
IMPORTANT Two sets of motor mounting holes are predrilled through the motor mounting box, one set for a four-hole radial
backplate mount and one set for mounting directly into the back of the motor. If your motor or its backplate mount uses a different
mounting hole pattern, you will need to drill new mounting holes through the motor mounting box to match.
STEP 2: INSTALLING THE MOTOR
q After the epoxy sets up, glue one piece of balsa triangle support between
each side of the motor mounting box and the rewall.
q Thick C/A
q # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver
q 2.5mm Hex Wrench
q 5.5mm Nut Driver
q (2) Engine Mounting Beams
q (4) M3 x 25mm Socket-Cap Screws
q (4) M3 x 20mm Machine Screws
q (4) M3 Lock Nuts
q (4) M3 Blind Nuts
q (12) M3 Flat Washers
q (2) Plywood Filler Blocks
q Electric Drill
q 5/64" (2mm) and 1/8" (3mm) Drill Bits
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Pencil
ENGINE INSTALLATION - GLOW VERSION
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
q Glue one plywood ller block into each precut slot in the rewall.
STEP 1: INSTALLING THE PLYWOOD FILLER BLOCKS
This section details the installation of the Magnum XL .52RFS four-stroke engine. Installation of a two-stroke engine uses the same
techniques. Regardless of what type of engine you use, the engine should be mounted on its side.
q Temporarily glue the two engine mounting beams to your engine's mounting
lugs, using a couple of drops of thick C/A.
IMPORTANT The location of the engine is not important at this time. It's
more important that the beams are square to the mounting lugs.
IMPORTANT You must install the plywood ller blocks as described in the procedure below. The plywood ller blocks will prevent
exhaust residue from getting inside the fuselage and, depending on the size of your engine, the mounting holes may be located right
next to, or even inside, the slots. Installing the ller blocks ensures that the engine mounting area will be strong enough.
STEP 2: INSTALLING THE ENGINE MOUNTING BEAMS
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Model Tech Super Cub ARF Assembly Instructions Manual
- Category
- Remote controlled toys
- Type
- Assembly Instructions Manual
Below you will find brief information for Radio controlled aircraft Super Cub ARF. This document provides assembly instructions for the Model Tech Super Cub ARF, detailing how to put together the prebuilt and covered airframe. The instructions cover both glow and brushless electric power system installations, as well as control systems, including ailerons, elevator, rudder, flaps, and throttle. The aircraft features stable flight characteristics and is designed for fast and easy assembly with over 100 high-resolution photos to guide you. It includes a fiberglass cowling, aluminum landing gear bracket, and a complete hardware set.
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