Pfaff 339 User manual

Brand: Pfaff

Model: 339

Category: Sewing machines

Type: User manual

CPFAFFD

339

G.M.

PFAFF

AG.

WERK

KARLSRUHE-DURLACH

-

—

FOREI1ORD

At

last

you

are

the

owner

of

this

modern

light

metal

Automatic

portable

sewing

machine

of

advanced

functional

styling

and

softly

blended

colours.

It

will

serve

you

for

all

normal

sewing

and

embroidery

work

that

becomes

necessary

in

your

home.

You

will

especially

appreciate

that

with

this

sewing

machine

you

can

also

darn

stockings

and

make

automatically

and

manually

decorative

fashion

stitches

in

un

ending

variety.

Pages

4

and

5

will

make

you

familiar

with

a

number

of

technical

terms

which

might

be

unknown

to

you

in

the

beginning.

First

of

all

you

should

read

sections

1,2

and

6.

Always

take

good

care

of

your

machine

as

proper

maintenance

bears

on

its

smooth

function

and

is

essential

for

long

life.

This

little

booklet

has

been

prepared

to

give

you

many

useful

sewing

hints

beyond

the

mere

operating

instructions.

Whenever

you

have

any

questions

regarding

this

machine,

your

dealer

will

be

glad

to

help

you

in

whichever

way

he

can.

Backed

by

many

years

of

experience,

Gritzner-Kayser

engineers

have

built

this

ma

chine

for

you

and

packed

it

with

the

latest

progressive

features.

It’s

a

marvellous

machine

and

you

will

surely

enjoy

sewing

on

it.

Table

of

Contents

This

is

Your

Sewing

Machine

.

Accessories

1.

Preparing

to

Sew

Engaging

and

disengaging

the

sewing

mechanism

Motor

drive

and

folding

table

Needle

and

thread

Exchanging

the

sewing

foot

Removing

and

replacing

bobbin

and

bobbin

case

Winding

the

bobbin

Upper

threading,

picking

up

bobbin

thread

2.

Sewing

—

Setting

the

Machine

Fundamentals

Beginning

and

stopping

to

sew

Stitch

length;

Sewing

forwards

and

backwards

Adusting

for

straight

or

zigzag

sewing

.

Thread

tensions

Presser

bar

regulator

(patch-o-matic)

Tips

for

Straight

Stitching

*)

Tips

for

Zigzag

Stitching

and

Fashion

Stitches

*)

Piping

Maintenance

4—5

6

7—18

7

8—9

10—12

11

13—16

14

17—18

19—26

19

20

21

22—23

24—25

26

3.

4.

5.

6.

27—28

39—56

57—61

62—67

7.

Cause

and

Remedy

of

Faults

68—73

*)

Refer

to

separate

indexes

on

pages

27

and

39.

_-

This

is

Your

Sewing

Machine

1

Thread

take-up

lever

19

Feed

dog

2

Thread

guides

20

Sewing

foot

3

Bobbin

winder

tension

21

Sewing

foot

fastening

screw

4

Spool

pins

22

Needle

clamp

5

Cam

control

23

Regulator

spring

6

Automatic

device

24

Presser

bar

lifter

7

Top

cover

(on

back

of

machine)

8

Machine

arm

9

Bobbin

winder

25

Front

cover

with

sewlight

10

Handwheel

26

Presser

bar

regulator

11

Stitch

length

regulator

27

Needle

plate

12

Stitch

length

scale

28

Needle

clamp

screw

13

Sewlight

switch

29

Upper

thread

tension

14

Lever

for

dropping

feed

dog

30

Needle

positioning

scale

15

Bottom

plate

31

Needle

positioning

lever

16

Free

arm

32

Lock

disc

17

Folding

table

18

Swing-away

arm

cover

33

Zigzag-width

scale

(hiding

hook

with

bobbin

case)

34

Zigzag

width

lever

5

I

/

Iotor

Drire

The

voltage

indicated

on

the

motor

plate

must

be

the

same

as

that

of

your

power-line

(f.

I.

220

volts).

You

will

find

the

motor

plate

on

the

underside

of

the

bottom

plate.

Tilt

the

machine

carefully

to

the

bock.

Connect

the

three-pronged

plug

1

to

the

socket

2

on

the

back

of

the

machine

and

plug

the

line

cord

3

into

the

wall

socket.

Se,rlirht

Place

the

foot

control,

which

is

connected

to

the

The

built-in

sewlight

(15

watts)

lights

end

of

cord

4,

under

the

table

so

that

your

right

foot

up

the

working

area

perfectly.

Its

will

rest

on

it

comfortably

and

depress

the

pedal.

switch

is

located

at

the

bottom

of

the

Tne

more

you

depress

the

control

the

faster

the

macnine

arm,

on

tne

rignt-nana

siae.

You

should

turn

off

the

sewlight

before

machine

will

run.

Remember

to

take

your

foot

off

the

cpening

or

closing

the

front

cover.

foot

control

when

you

are

not

actually

sewing.

8

Folding

Table

and

Table

Extension

For

all

normal

sewing

work

and

fancy

stitching

you

can

raise

the

folding

table

to

obtain

a

larger

working

area

to

put

the

material

on.

All

you

have

to

do

is

lift

up

the

table

a

little

and

pull

it

all

the

way

to

the

left

until

its

right

part

is

on

a

level

with

the

free

arm.

Then

let

it

snap

into

the

groove

under

the

needle

p

are.

Reverse

procedure

to

fold

away

the

table.

When

working

on

large-size

material

the

folding

table

can

be

extended

by

screwing

on

to

it

the

table

extension

strapped

to

the

inside

of

the

carrying

case

an

the

right-hand

side.

Swing

the

table

extension

support

to

the

left.

9

p

Inserti.

the

Needle

The

machine

requir

5

need/es

system

130

R.

Need/es

of

that

system

are

avail

able

at

your

sewing

machine

dealer.

Bring

the

thread

takeup

/ever

to

its

highest

position

and

/oosen

c/amp

screw

5

all

the

Way.

Now

take

the

needle

between

thumb

and

forefinger

of

your

/eft

hand,

and

with

its

flat

side

to

the

back

and

its

/ong

groove

facing

you,

be

sure

to

push

it

up

into

the

need/e

c/amp

as

far

as

it

will

go.

As

this

is

done,

retighten

the

needle

clamp

screw

With

Your

right

hand.

$

I

I’

/1

I

I

I

10

Exchanging

the

Sewing

Foot

fabric,

ing

results.

on

For

medium-weight

linen

and

cotton

fabrics

you

should

start

with

thread

No.

60

and

a

needle

No.

80.

When

working

very

fine

or

very

thick

material

first

try

out

on

a

piece

of

remnant

whether

you

have

chosen

the

correct

needle

and

thread

sze.

To

replace

the

sewing

foot

place

its

cut-

As

bobbin

thread

you

should

preferably

out

side

from

the

left

onto

the

presser

bar

use

thread

which

is

a

little

softer

and

finer

and

move

it

up

until

it

stops

at

the

thread-

than

the

upper

thread.

For

sewing

woolen

-

i

ing

of

the

sewing

foot

fastening

screw.

and

silk

fabrics

you

will

mostly

be

using

Then

use

a

screwdriver

to

retighten

the

sewing

silk

where

there

is

no

difference

fastening

screw

firmly.

between

upper

and

bobbin

thread.

f

For

fashion

stitches

we

recommend

the

use

Correct

Size

Needle

and

Thread

of

mercerized

upper

thread

or

sewing

silk

or

machine

embroidery

cotton,

and

as

For

selecting

the

right

kind

and

size

of

bobbin

thread

machine

embroidery

cotton

thread

and

needle

for

various

kinds

of

No.

50.

H

H

Raise

the

presser

bar

lifter

and

the

needle

all

the

way

and

loosen

the

sewing

foot

fastening

screw

until

you

can

tilt

the

sew

ing

foot

slightly

to

the

left

and

take

it

out

from

underneath

the

screw.

h

ILdh.

49w.e

.

v

,

•

N

Needle

and

Thread

Table

(metric

system)

Example:

You

want

to

work

on

underwear.

On

a

—

—

C0

O

C

C

OO

the

line

saying

“under-

g

a

o

a

C

G)

-o

wear”

you

go

to

the

right

—

—

°

N

>-

>-

a,

C

C

C,

)

and

find

thread

size

80

“—

°

a

a,

and

above

the

kind

C

-

OT

c

C

C0

C0

—

thread

to

use.

L.ast

column

C

0

0 0

0

0

C

C

-U

U

-

>

a,

indicates

the

needle

size.

°-

=

U)

,./

O

UJ

Fine

linen,

cambric

100

8i)

—

Babbinet,

mull,

organdie

130

130

80

Fine

silks,

crape

130

130

80

Fine

cotton

and

rayon

knit-

100 100

80

70

wear,

tricot

Fine

materials

in

nylon,

terylene

and

other

man-

120

200

180

made

fibers

e.

g.

dacron,

perlon,

etc.

Medium-weight

materials

in

nylon,

dacron,

etc.

100

150

120

Underwear

80

60

80

Silk,

materials

for

blouses

100

60

Light-weight

taffeta,

muslin

80

80

1CO

60

Bed

and

table

linen

60

50

Heavy

silk

80 50

Linen

60

80

90

Fine

leather,

plastic

60

80

80

80

80

I

Light-weight

clothing

60

80

—

Heavy

clothing

40

60

Heavy

linen,

inletts

40

60

40

100

Drill

40

40

40

Heavy

materials,

materials

for

coats

50

110

*)

Far

darning

and

embraidering,

embroidery

and

darning

cotton

No.

50

generally

proves

satisfactory

as

both

upper

and

bobbin

thread.

Needle

size

70—80.

Needle

system

130

R

t

Removing

the

Bobbin

Case

Bring

thread

take-up

ever

to

its

highest

position

and

swing

out

to

the

left

the

cover

at

the

end

of

the

free

arm.

With

thumb

and

forefinger

of

your

right

hand

hold

the

case

by

its

lctch

6.

You

can

now

take

the

bobbin

case

with

the

bobbin

out

to

the

front.

When

releasing

the

latch,

the

bobbin

will

fall

out.

L:zEr

13

Winding

the

llobbin

Disengage

the

sewing

mechanism

as

described

on

page

7.

Now

place

the

spool

on

the

right-hand

spool

pin,

pass

the

thread

through

the

back

thread

guide,once

clockwise

around

the

tension

7

and

to

the

bobbin

on

the

bobbin

winder

pin.

The

small

wire

on

the

pin

must

go

into

the

slot

on

the

underside

of

the

bobbin.

Wind

the

thread

ends

a

few

times

clockwise

around

the

bobbin.

(You

may

also

pass

the

thread

end

from

the

inside

of

the

bobbin

out

up

through

the

bobbin

slot,

hold

it

there

for

the

first

few

turns

of

the

bobbin

winder

and

then

tear

it

off.)

Now

press

lever

8

to

the

back

against

the

bobbin

and

set

the

machine

in

motion.

The

winder

action

stops

automatically

as

the

bobbin

is

fully

loaded.

If

you

do

not

want

to

load

the

bobbin

fully,

just

pull

lever

8

towards

you

with

your

forefinger

at

any

time

you

wish

to

stop

the

winder

action.

F

Afterwards

re

engage

the

sewing

mechanism.

14

Replacing

the

Loaded

Bobbin

1)

Place

the

bobbin

into

the

bobbin

case

so

that

the

thread

unwinds

from

top

towards

you

.-m

(upper

photo).

2)

Hold

the

bobbin

in

the

bobbin

case

arid

pass

the

thread

through

the

t

1

’recding

slot

(lower

photo

left)

3)

Draw

the

thread

along

and

beneath

the

tension

spring

and

out

through

the

opening

in

the

case.

Leave

the

thread

end

hanging

out

by

about

3

(lower

photo,

right)

4)

With

the

bobbin

case

latch

all

the

way

open,

the

bobbin

cannot

fall

out

15

Bring

the

thread

take-up

lever

again

to

its

highest

position

and

with

thumb

and

forefinger

ho!d

the

case

by

its

open

latch

9

and,

with

the

cut-out

on

top,

slide

it

onto

stud

10.

It

is

best

to

hold

also

the

loose

thread

end

to

prevent

it

from

getting

caught

between

bobbin

case

and

hook.

Now

let

go

of

the

latch

and

press

the

bobbin

case

firmly

against

the

hook

until

you

hear

it

click

into

place.

Not

correctly

inserted,

the

bobbin

case

will

cause

breaking

of

the

needles.

Close

the

arm

cover.

16

1,)1(1CiIl

jJg()

flobbiii

(:(18(

F

Place

the

spool

onto

the

spool

pin

and

pass

the

thread

through

the

slot

in

thread

guide

11,

across

the

arm

of

the

mcchine

to

the

front,

then

by

the

right

edge

of

thread

guide

12

and

up

under

its

hook

through

the

upper

hole

and

down

through

the

lower

hole.

Now

pass

it

down

and

clockwise

between

tension

discs

of

the

tension

assembly

13,

then

up

and

from

right

to

left

through

take-up

lever

14,

down

through

thread

guide

15

and

needle

clomp

thread

guide

16

and

finally

from

front

to

back

through

the

needle.

Pull

about

4”

of

thread

through

the

needle.

lip

per

Tlireadiizg

1411

12

LJi

17

Picking

up

Bobbin

Thread

With

your

left

hand

hold

the

end

of

the

upper

thread,

leaving

it

a

little

slack

between

hand

and

needle.

Then

turn

the

handwheel

towards

you

to

allow

the

thread

take-up

lever

and

the

needle

to

travel

down

once

and

up

again

to

the

highest

point.

The

bobbin

thread

will

thus

be

drawn

up

in

a

loop

through

the

needle

plate.

Now

place

both

thread

ends

(about

3”

long)

under

the

sewing

foot

to

the

back.

(Whenever

you

do

not

start

working

ot

the

edge

of

the

material,

for

instance

when

darning

somewhere

in

the

middle

of

the

fabric,

remem

ber

to

pick

up

the

bobbin

threod

only

after

you

hove

ploced

the

fabric

between

sewing

foot

and

needle

plate.

This

will

enoble

you,

as

mentioned

on

poge

19,

to

hold

on

to

the

two

threod

ends

placed

under

the

sewing

foot

to

the

back

as

you

start

sewing.>

18

Fundamentals

2.

Sewing

-

Setting

the

Machine

o

When

threaded,

the

machine

must

never

be

set

in

motion

without

a

piece

of

fabric

underneath

the

sew

ing

foot.

Also

remember

to

tower

the

foot

only

with

fabric

under

it

as

otherwise

the

foot

and

the

teeth

of

the

feed

dog

might

be

damaged.

•

The

machine

moves

the

material

all

by

itself.

You

should

merely

guide

the

cloth,

never

pull

it.

Only

when

sewing

over

hard

or

thick

parts

of

he

fabric

reduce

the

sewing

speed

and

assist

the

needle

by

carefully

turning

the

handwheel

with

your

hand,

sewing

slowly

stitch

by

stitch.

This

will

avoid

bending

or

breaking

of

the

needle.

See

section

6,

page

62,

for

maintenance

instructions.

Remember

that

faults

are

often

remedied

by

merely

cleaning

and

oiling

the

machine.

19

per

and

bobbin

thread

under

the

sewing

foot

to

the

back.

•

Hold

the

ends

of

both

threads

dur

ing

the

first

few

stitches

so

they

will

not

get

entangled

and

block

the

hook.

•

Before

starting

to

stitch

and

when

you

finish

stitching,

always

bring

the

thread

take-up

lever

to

its

highest

point.

This

will

prevent

the

upper

thread

from

getting

caught

in

the

hook

or

from

slipping

out

of

the

needle

eye.

•

Before

laying

the

material

on

the

machine,

place

the

ends

of

both

up-

When

starting

to

sew

with

the

straight

stitch,

you

should

follow

the

instructions

given

on

pages

21

and

22.

Make

sure

par

ticularly

that

you

sew

at

a

medium

stitch

length

(setting

of

stitch

length

regulator

as

pictured

on

page

21)

and

that

the

cam

control

is

on

straight

stitch

as

pictured

on

page

23.

Re,novin

the

Work

Place

the

fabric

between

sewing

foot

and

needle

plate

and

let

down

the

sewing

foot

by

lowering

the

presser

bar

lifter.

As

you

depress

the

foot

control,

the

machine

is

set

in

motion,

yet

it

is

good

to

aid

its

start

a

little

with

your

right

hand

on

the

hand-

wheel.

During

the

first

few

stitches

hold

the

ends

of

both

threads

with

your

left

hand.

20

I

I

Starting

to

Sew

And

remember:

Never

pull

the

material

along,

merely

guide

it.

V’/hen

making

a

sharp

turn,

stop

the

ma

chine

and

raise

the

sewing

foot

for

a

mo

ment

but

leave

the

needle

in

the

fabric

to

act

as

a

pivot

as

you

turn

the

material

into

the

new

direction.

t

Bring

the

thread

take-up

lever

to

its

high

est

position,

raise

the

presser

bar

lifter

L

and

remove

the

fabric

to

the

back.

Now

cut

off

the

threads.

Make

sure,

however,

that

you

leave

the

ends

of

the

threads

about

3”

long

under

and

at

the

back

of

the

sewing

foot

so

that

the

machine

is

ready

for

the

next

sewing.

Setting

the

Stitch

Length

You

set

the

stitch

length

by

the

stitch

length

regulator

17.

Turn

the

screw

18

to

the

left

and

set

the

stitch

length

as

you

like

it.

The

shortest

stitch

is

sewn

when

the

regulating

lever

is

in

centre

position;

the

longest

stitch

is

a

good

3/16”

with

the

lever

either

in

its

highest

or

lowest

position.

For

forward

sewing

the

lever

is

normally

set

at

1/16”

stitch

length,

as

pictured.

With

the

regulating

lever

resting

in

the

notch

in

the

centre

of

the

scale,

the

ma

chine

is

set

to

sew

very

short

stitches

(al

most

0)

as

the

are

required

for

the

satin

stitch,

buttonholes,

and

a

variety

of

deco

rative

fashion

stitches.

If

the

stitch

length,

however,

turns

out

too

short,

you

need

only

turn

the

screw

a

little

to

the

left

(about

1/4

turn)

and

push

the

lever

up.

Forward

and

Reserre

Stitching

The

machine

sews

forwards

as

long

as

the

regulator

lever

is

in

the

upper

half

of

scale

19.

For

reverse

stitching

just

push

the

lever

down

until

it

stops,

without

turning

the

knob,

The

reverse

stitches

will

then

be

of

the

same

length

as

were

the

forward

stitches.

t..

I

I

17

I

21

RI

g

h

t:

Scale

22

for

adjusting

zigzag

width

with

figures

0—4

and

adjustment

lever

23

which,

for

straight

stitching,

must

be

set

on

0

and

for

zigzag

stit

ching

on

one

of

the

other

numbers

marked

on

the

scale.

The

largest

zig

zag

width

is

5,32”.

Be

ow

:

Lock

disc

24

for

limiting

zig

zag

w:dth

with

figures

0—4

and

a

but

tonhole

symbol

detaiis

on

page

44

“Buttonholing”).

Left:

Scale

26

for

the

needle

position

and

adjustment

lever

25

which

must

be

in

centre

position

for

regular

straight

and

zigzag

stitching,

Setting

this

lever

to

leit

or

right

becomes

necessary

for

J22

Adjusting

for

Straight

or

Zigzag

Sewing

On

the

machine

arm,

facing

you,

you

will

see:

Centre:

Hinged

cover

plate

20

for

the

Auto

matic

device

which

opens

to

the

front

for

inserting

the

pattern

cams

(details

on

page

49

“Automatic

Fashion

Stitches”).

Above:

Cam

control

21

for

straight

stitching,

zigzag

stitching,

curved

seam

and

fashion

stitches.

I

I

-J

b2

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Pfaff 339 User manual

Brand: Pfaff

Model: 339

Category: Sewing machines

Type: User manual

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