Rayburn 355s User Instructions

Type
User Instructions

This manual is also suitable for

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http://www.oilstoves.co.uk/
Water
Temperature
Control Stat.
2
Contents
1. Introduction. ______________________________________________________________ 1
2. How Does it Operate?_______________________________________________________ 1
3. Description of Controls. _____________________________________________________ 1
Time Clock or On Off Switch. _________________________________________________ 1
Water Temperature Sensing Thermostat. _________________________________________ 1
Stat drive information ________________________________________________________ 1
Oven Temperature Control ____________________________________________________ 2
Lever Operated, Boiler - Cooker DAMPER. ______________________________________ 2
4.The New Baffle System.______________________________________________________ 2
Winter Time Running. _______________________________________________________ 2
Summer Time Running. ______________________________________________________ 2
Isolated Cooking or Heating. __________________________________________________ 2
5.The Central Heating Pump. __________________________________________________ 3
6.Main Burner Control Unit.___________________________________________________ 3
7. Using The Converted Appliance.______________________________________________ 3
Warning. __________________________________________________________________ 3
The Boiler / Cooking Damper. _________________________________________________ 3
Heating Position.____________________________________________________________ 3
Cooking Position. ___________________________________________________________ 3
8. Typical Run Situation. ______________________________________________________ 3
To Increase The Oven Temperature. ____________________________________________ 4
To Decrease The Oven Temperature.____________________________________________ 4
9. Running Costs. ____________________________________________________________ 4
10. P
recautions. _____________________________________________________________ 4
The Control Box Lockout Button. ______________________________________________ 4
The Electrical Isolation Point. _________________________________________________ 4
The Oil Supply Valves and Filter. ______________________________________________ 4
The Fire Valve. _____________________________________________________________ 4
Warning. __________________________________________________________________ 4
11. Servicing. ________________________________________________________________ 5
Frequency. ________________________________________________________________ 5
Air for Combustion. _________________________________________________________ 5
Warranty Registration. _______________________________________________________ 5
Calibrate Fuel Tank Gauge. ___________________________________________________ 5
Fuel Re Order. _____________________________________________________________ 5
Fuel Type. _________________________________________________________________ 5
12. In The Event of a Stoppage._________________________________________________ 5
Control Lock Out ___________________________________________________________ 5
Empty Fuel Tank. ___________________________________________________________ 5
Activated Safety Controls. ____________________________________________________ 5
Time clock. ________________________________________________________________ 5
Thermostatats.______________________________________________________________ 5
Electrical Fuses. ____________________________________________________________ 5
1
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The Rayburn Supreme and Nouvelle cookers are
ideally suited for conversion.
They have an excellent hot plate and a good cast
iron lined upper oven.
They are robustly constructed and renown for the
quality of vitreous enamel applied to the exterior
castings.
The conversion system fitted to your Rayburn
will enhance and compliment its many attractive
features, as well as bring the advantages of
clean, automatic heating to your home.
It can provide a maximum output to water of up
to 55,000 BTUs via an automatic pressure jet oil
burner firing vertically through a simple patented
baffle system.
It is-:
Simple and easy to use.
Easy to maintain.
Easy to service.
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Providing the appliance has been converted
correctly and in line with our installation
instructions
,
the cooker will operate in much
the same way as a solid fuel cooker with 3
major differences.
1. You can rapidly, turn it on and off whenever
you require.
2. You will get a constant heat output instead of
a fluctuating one.
3. You will be able to hold a steady oven
temperature automatically via the water
temperature control thermostat.
You will not be able to operate the oven
independently from the boiler as the two are
interlinked in the original design of the
cooker.
Here is a description of how your converted
appliance works
Imagine, instead of coal fire in the firebox, a
large flame generated by the burner, which
can be diverted
a) Around the boiler and
through an extra
part of the boiler,
b) Around a part of the boiler and then over
the oven.
Obviously, if you divert the flame around
and through the boiler, more of the heat from
the flame will go into the water and the
resultant flue gases will be cooler.
If you divert the flame across the oven top
the resultant flue gases will be much hotter
and will then put the extra heat into the oven.
In each case the hot plate will get hot.
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Controls which will affect the performance of
the appliance and which you should be familiar
with are as follows-:
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Your Installer will inform you of how the
appliance will be activated.
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There are two different situations, which can
effect the positioning of this device.
1. Situations where the appliance has been
correctly installed.
There will be enough space at the left hand side
of the appliance for the conversion engineer to
gain access to the original water temperature
control thermostat.
Original stat
Drive knob
2
This will mean that you will be able to use the
existing drive knob on the top left hand side of
the enamelled hob.
There is a slight discrepancy between the
original scale of 1 to 8 and that of the new
thermostat, which is 1 to 6.
There is also a further slight problem in as much
as the original drive to the stat is a flexible shaft,
which does not give a positive action.
To overcome this you will need to use a certain
amount of trial and error to establish familiarity
with the stat drive and corresponding numbers,
with experience, you will learn where to set the
drive knob to suit your particular requirements.
2. Situations where the appliance has not been
correctly installed.
There may not be enough space at the left hand
side of the appliance to gain access to the
original stat.
In these situations there are two possibilities,
1. A separate stat holder box situated near to, or
on the appliance.
2. A pair of clip on pipe stats situated in a
convenient position near to the appliance.
The installer may well need to discuss the best
possible option of fitting a temperature control
stat if it can’t be fitted in it’s original position.
The control of either stat should be-:
Rotate the control knob clockwise or anti
clockwise to either increase or decrease the
water temperature.
(This device automatically controls the water
temperature and also has a direct effect on the
idling temperature of both the oven and the hot
plate, i.e. the hotter the water temperature
required the hotter both the oven and the
hotplate will become)
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(The Chrome lever situated in the centre of the
appliance just below the hob.)
This device allows the user to bias heat to either
the oven or the boiler.
The original design of the appliance will not
allow the user to run the heating or cooking
separately.
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Fitted inside the appliance this item is altered
from SUMMER to WINTER positions by the
service engineer.
It consists of a circular tube with a ceramic board
lid.
In the sides of the tube are two rectangular holes,
which are designed to shoot the flame in the
required direction.
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During the WINTER TIME this direction is to
the rear and left hand side of the appliance
directly opposite the metal faces of the boiler.
The logic is that because the burner will be
running for longer periods of time, there will be
enough heat to keep the oven at a reasonable
temperature without having flames directed at it.
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During the SUMMER to the right (oven) and
front of the appliance.
The logic here is because there is less need to
heat the water; the majority of heat should be
directed at the oven.
If required the holes can be positioned anywhere
in between.
Note
This process of baffle adjustment is called
HEAT BALANCING.
In general solid fuel cookers are fitted in a wide
variety of different applications with differing
heat loads applied to them, because of this there
will be a need for some sort of adjustment to get
the right HEAT BALANCE established for each
different installation.
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It is not possible to completely isolate either the
oven or the boiler from the heat generated by the
burner.
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The oven temperature control is an optional
extra.
3
It is mounted on the left hand side panel close to
the top of the appliance.
It is an additional thermostat calibrated at oven
temperatures 50 to 300 C which is simply wired
in series with the water temperature control stat.
The use of this control is limited because it is not
possible to separate the oven from the boiler.
To set it, turn the water stat up to maximum and
set the oven stat at the desired temperature, when
the desired temperature is reached, the oven stat
will turn the burner off, as the oven cools down
the burner will fire up occasionally to maintain
the oven temperature.
If the water temperature is already high when
you want to increase the oven temperature the
water stat may well cut the burner off
regardless of the temperature setting.
Remember that if the water is up to temperature
and the burner is allowed to carry on running
then the system would boil and obviously this
will not happen because the water temperature
control stat will stop it.
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Can be turned on and of by a switch or
automatically by a time clock.
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The main burner control unit (control box) auto-
matically controls and times all the functions of
the burner and normally you will not need to
know too much about it other than how it fits in
the general pattern of the control system, which
is as follows: -
Power is supplied from either a manual or timed
on - off switch to the thermostat, and then to the
controller.
The controller looks after the burner and makes
sure everything happens in the correct order.
The only time you will notice the controller, is if
the burner fails to ignite.
In this case it will (GO TO LOCK OUT) and the
orange reset button will illuminate, indicating a
problem has occurred during the ignition
sequence.
Before you can attempt to relight the burner you
will have to wait for about three minutes before
you can press the button to extinguish the light
and let the controller try to re-ignite the burner.
If lockout occurs after a reset you must call out a
service engineer to investigate the cause.
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Always use a heat resistant glove when using
the chrome boiler
/
cooking lever as it will get
hot during normal running.
With a little experience you will soon learn what
oven temperature to expect in relation to water
temperatures and although normally to increase
the oven temperature, you will have to open the
boiler / cooking damper to it's cooking position,
this may not always be the case.
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Is operated by a chrome lever located in the
centre of the appliance just beneath the hob
return.
It provides the means to direct the flame from
the burner either around the boiler / hotplate, and
through the rear boiler flue ways, for high
efficiency heating or around the first part of the
boiler, the hot plate and then the oven, for more
of your oven and cooking needs.
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When the chrome lever is in a vertical position it
is in the heating position.
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When the chrome lever is lifted into a horizontal
position it is in the cooking position.
It is not possible to completely isolate the boiler from
the flame, but it is possible to swing the majority of
the heat either into the water or into a hot plane and
oven, if you wish to run the cooker during the
summertime for cooking you will need to purchase
the summertime boiler insulation bricks.
You will very quickly learn to use the converted
appliance but to give you a start we illustrate a
typical situation-:
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The cooker is in its water heating state with the
lids down, the boiler /cooking damper lever is in
boiler position and the water stat set to give a
water temperature of 60 deg C, the cooker has
4
been timed on from say 6 am and it is now time
to get up at say 7.30 am, by this time the cooker
should have the water up to the required setting
and will be turning itself on and off,
(modulating) to maintain the water temperature
All being well the oven should be at about 150 -
180 deg C.
The 2 pint kettle left on the edge of the right
hand hotplate would be simmering and needs
only to be moved across on to the left hand
hotplate to bring it up to the boil.
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Turn the water stat up a little and open the boiler
/
cooking damper to cooking position.
The burner will now be running, keep an eye on
the oven temperature gauge and after ten or
fifteen minutes the oven will come up to say 200
deg C, just before the oven comes up to the
required temperature close the boiler / cooking
damper and slowly turn the water stat down until
the burner just clicks off on the stat.
Now you have the oven up to temperature and
the cooker back in its heating mode with the
burner turning on and off (modulating) keeping
the central heating up to temperature.
In this condition the oven will stay at its target
temperature for about an hour, if you need to
keep the oven on temperature for longer than an
hour give the oven a quick boost by repeating the
increase oven temperature procedure.
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Turn the water stat down a little and then the
burner will stop.
Move the boiler
/
cooking damper to it's boiler
position.
There are many different ways that you can use
your appliance, it is impossible to cover them all
but it is hoped that you have been given an
introduction into the operating techniques.
Remember, plan in advance and keep a note of
what oven temperatures you get relative to your
selected thermostat settings, you will then have
more confidence to use your cooker more and
more.
Normally we need our central heating at least 8 -
9 months of the year and whilst we are central
heating, cooking comes cheap.
9
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Running costs are dependant upon two factors
1. The size of the heating system.
2. The amount of time the burner is running.
If you have a large system say 55,000 BTUs
it cost quite a lot more to run than a smaller
system of 30,000 BTUs
Your burner will have been set up at the
factory to give the heat output suitable for
your system and your installing technician
will be able to tell you how many gallons or
litres per RUNNING HOUR you will be
using, once you have this information,
multiply-:
The running hours,
By the throughput per hour,
By the cost per litre or gallon,
and you should have your answer.
1
1
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After the conversion has been completed
commissioned your installer should give basic
information relative to the location of: -
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Can be manually reset should the burner fall to
ignite.
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Remote fire valves can be reset if tripped, make sure
your installer tells you how to reset the valve after
first investigating the reason for the trip.
W
W
A
A
R
R
N
N
I
I
N
N
G
G
.
.
Always use a heat resistant glove when using
the chrome boiler
/
cooking lever as it will get
hot during normal running.
To make sure that your converted appliance
always runs at its optimum performance level,
5
have it serviced on a regular basis by a
competent person.
To ensure that the service engineer is competent
and able to maintain your oil burner in good
condition, we strongly recommend the use of
O.F.T.E.C. trained service engineers for this job.
1
1
1
1
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.
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F
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Q
U
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Y
Y
.
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Service should be carried out at six monthly
intervals.
A
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Make sure that the airways into the ash pan area
are always clean and clear of obstructions.
Make sure that any purpose-designed ventilation
is kept clear and free of obstruction.
Do not block air vents under any circumstances.
W
W
A
A
R
R
R
R
A
A
N
N
T
T
Y
Y
R
R
E
E
G
G
I
I
S
S
T
T
R
R
A
A
T
T
I
I
O
O
N
N
.
.
Make sure that you or your installer returns the
warranty registration card to our office as soon
as possible, otherwise it will slow down the pro-
cessing of warranty claims.
Note all warranty claims should be made through
your installer.
C
C
A
A
L
L
I
I
B
B
R
R
A
A
T
T
E
E
F
F
U
U
E
E
L
L
T
T
A
A
N
N
K
K
G
G
A
A
U
U
G
G
E
E
.
.
You are advised to make sure that your oil tank
gauge is accurately set up and you keep a careful
check on the contents.
F
F
U
U
E
E
L
L
R
R
E
E
O
O
R
R
D
D
E
E
R
R
.
.
Re-order in plenty of time, so as to avoid a run
out fuel situation.
F
F
U
U
E
E
L
L
T
T
Y
Y
P
P
E
E
.
.
Use only 28-second kerosene on this conversion
system.
1
1
2
2
.
.
I
I
N
N
T
T
H
H
E
E
E
E
V
V
E
E
N
N
T
T
O
O
F
F
A
A
S
S
T
T
O
O
P
P
P
P
A
A
G
G
E
E
.
.
Before calling your service man make sure that-:
C
C
O
O
N
N
T
T
R
R
O
O
L
L
L
L
O
O
C
C
K
K
O
O
U
U
T
T
Located in the ash - pan area on the front of the
burner.
Check the light on the burner controller front, if
it is illuminated, press it in and let the burner try
to re – ignite.
E
E
M
M
P
P
T
T
Y
Y
F
F
U
U
E
E
L
L
T
T
A
A
N
N
K
K
.
.
Have you run out of fuel?
A
A
C
C
T
T
I
I
V
V
A
A
T
T
E
E
D
D
S
S
A
A
F
F
E
E
T
T
Y
Y
C
C
O
O
N
N
T
T
R
R
O
O
L
L
S
S
.
.
The fuel is turned on and the fire valve hasn't
tripped.
T
T
I
I
M
M
E
E
C
C
L
L
O
O
C
C
K
K
.
.
The clock programmer is switched to the correct
position.
T
T
H
H
E
E
R
R
M
M
O
O
S
S
T
T
A
A
T
T
.
.
The thermostat is set to the correct position.
E
E
L
L
E
E
C
C
T
T
R
R
I
I
C
C
A
A
L
L
F
F
U
U
S
S
E
E
S
S
.
.
All the electrical fuses are sound.
Ash pit Air
wheel
1
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Rayburn 355s User Instructions

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User Instructions
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