WELCOME
to the HERGÓM family. We would like to thank you for the distinction you have
made by choosing our BENNINGTON WOOD BURNING STOVE.
All of its parts are made of cast iron to guarantee a long working life.
We are sure your new stove will give you satisfaction on many occasions,
which is the greatest attraction of our equipment.
Owning a Hergóm Stove is a sign of an exception sense of quality.
Please read all of the manual. Its aim is to familiarise you with your stove,
indicating standards for its installation, operating and maintenance that will be
very useful to you. Please keep it and consult when necessary. If after
reading this manual you require any further information, please do not hesitate
to contact your normal supplier or to call the factory directly.
IMPORTANT WARNING:
If the fireplace is not suitably installed, the excellent
services for which it has been designed will not be given. Please ready these
instruction fully and entrust the work to a specialist.
Your Cast Iron Stove is protected on the inside with an anti-calorific paint
especially for high temperatures. When the stove is lit for the first few times, it
is normal for a slight amount of smoke to be produced when some of its
components evaporate, giving the paint body. We therefore recommend you
ventilate the room until this disappears.
Side
door
Fixed side
door control
Ash pan door
Primary air
valve control
Front and Ash pan
door opening
removable control handle
Secundary
air tubes (3)
Ash pan
Convection heat
exchanger
Upper primary
air collector
Front and sides
air convection
outlets
Folding front
glass door
cold position of
removable control
Upper convection
outlet grate
Horizontal o Vertical
smoke outlet
1.- PRESENTATION
The BENNINGTON Wood burning stove has the following main characteristics:
•
Made completely of cast iron, with assembled parts sealed with ceramic rope and screwed
together.
• External natural convection chamber between the double walls of the sides, rear and roof that
increases the output of the stove and ensure a long working life.
• Large fireplace that allows for wood up to 57 cm. in length to be burnt.
• Primary air adjustment valve.
•
Indirect primary air feeding system that sends the air down along the inside of the glass (self-
cleaning) to the bottom of the fireplace. Also fitted with a primary air hole located inside a nozzle
underneath the door gap to favour lighting.
• Secondary air with self-adjustment that increases stove output and decreases the emission of
non-burnt items into the atmosphere.
• Self-cleaning glass.
• Folding, double-leaf and glazed front door.
• Sealed Ash Pan Door underneath the Ash Pan.
• Single opening control for opening the front and Ash Pan doors. When not in use, it is placed in
its special cold housing to prevent it from heating.
• Side door for easier fuel loading with fixed opening control.
• Smoke outlet to allow for a horizontal or vertical direction out of the chimney.
• Detachable grille.
• Upper grate for the outlet of convection air.
•
Openable outside roof and rear. Without fastenings.
• Heat exchanger (air-air) detachable to access the upper part of the stove and make cleaning
easier.
• Gives heat by convection or radiation, heating walls, ceilings, etc. directly.
• Supplied completely factory assembled, ready to connect to the chimney.
Fig.-1
2.- INSTALLATION.
The form of installing the stove will decisively influence its safety and correct working
order.
It is very important for it to be well installed.
The correct installation of the stove and the chimney may be difficult and we
recommend it be done by a professional. Should you decide to do it yourself and you have
any doubts, please ask a professional for help or call us directly at the factory.
A.- LOCATING THE STOVE FOR GREATEST PERFORMANCE
The stove gives its heat both by infrared radiation, heating walls, ceilings, furniture,
etc. directly, and by heating the air, producing a convection movement that takes the heat to
the most distant parts of the room.
The BENNINGTON mod. Stove produces a gentle, uniform and radiant heat that
leads to pleasant comfort in your home.
The best location for the stove is usually in the lounge, it being a large room and
generally located in the centre of the home.
If the house has two floors, the best location is on the lower floor and near to the
stairwell.
B.- CHIMNEYS
The working order of the stove depends on:
a) The chimney
b) The form of operating with it
c) The quality of the fuel used.
After years of use, you may change the type of fuel, although once the chimney is
installed in a particular spot, it is not easy to modify it or change its place. Therefore, the
following information will help you decide whether you can make us of the existing chimney
or not, or whether to decide to build a new one. This information will help you to make the
correct decision.
1.- How chimneys work
Basic knowledge of how chimneys work will help you to make the most of your stove.
The function of the chimney is:
a) To evacuate the smoke and gases without danger to the outside of the
house.
c) To provide enough draught in the stove for the fire to remain lit.
What is draught?
The tendency of the hot air to rise creates draught. When the stove is lit, the hot air
rises up the chimney and goes outside. The chimney flue heats up and keeps the draught.
Until the stove and the chimney are hot, the draught will not work properly.
The location, size and height of the chimney affect its draught.
The following must be taken into account:
- Chimneys located inside the home keep warm and, therefore, the draught is
greater.
- The recommended size of the chimney maintains a good draught.
- The height of the chimney affects the draught. Greater height: better draught. The
chimney must stand out by at least one metre above the highest part of the roof.
Other factors affect the draught:
- Houses with extremely indoor insulation, without air currents: with no air entering
the stove, the draught is affected. This is correct by sending air from outside to the stove.
- Trees and/or tall buildings close to the home.
- The wind speed. Generally, persistently strong winds increase the draught,
although stormy winds may decrease the draught.
- Outside temperature. The colder it is outdoors, the better the draught.
- Barometric pressure. On rainy, humid or stormy days, the draught is generally
weak.
- Liveliness of the fire. The hotter the fire, the stronger the draught.
- Cracks in the chimney, a badly sealed or dirty door, air inlets through the pipe joints,
other appliance connected to the chimney, etc. may produce unsuitable draughts.
2.- Creosote formation and cleaning
When wood is burned slowly, tar and other organic vapours are produced that, when
combined with atmospheric humidity, form creosote. The creosote vapours can be
condensed if the chimney walls are cold. If the creosote catches alight, extremely hot fires
may be caused. Any accumulation of creosote must be immediately removed.
Due to the accumulation of creosote depending on many variables, it is very difficult
to predict the moment at which the chimney must be cleaned. A visual inspection is the
safest way of knowing whether the chimney of your stove is clean.
We therefore recommend installations to which access is easy.
3.- Options
If you are going to build a chimney for your HERGÓM stove, you have two
alternatives:
a) Brickwork chimneys.
b) Metal chimneys
Studies reflect that there is no great difference between metal and brickwork in terms
of draught. It is you who, according to each case, will choose one or another.
Whenever possible, place your chimney inside the home to obtain a better draught
and accumulate less creosote, leading to a longer working life.
The advantages of brick chimneys are:
•
The mass of bricks and tiles reduces the cooling of smoke in the chimney.
•
The characteristics of the bricks in accumulating heat allows for the house to
remain warm for longer after the fire has been put out.
•
It may be built to individual tastes.
•
If it is well built, it may be more fire-resistant than metal chimneys.
Brickwork chimneys must be well lined to avoid smoke cooling. They must be built
using materials that withstand high temperatures and corrosion. They may be round,
square, etc. What matters is their size.
For brickwork chimneys in these models of HERGÓM stoves, the following
measurements must be respected:
- Round chimney with a diameter of 150 mm.
- Square chimney 175 x 175 mm.
The advantages of metal chimneys are:
•
Easy installation.
•
Slight changes in chimney direction can be made, leading to greater flexibility
in the choice of location for the stove.
•
Due to there being curved elbow joint, sharp edges that make draught difficult
are removed.
C.- CONNECTING THE CHIMNEY
The flue of a lounge chimney is not very
recommendable for use as a chimney flue for a stove as it
has a very large section. If you wish to use it, we
recommend you use metal tubes on the inside with the
appropriate diameter.
In this case, one of the heads (we recommend the
upper head) must be covered to prevent the formation of
draught that may cool the smoke circulating along the metal
chimney.
(Fig.-2)
This model of HERGÓM stove has the smoke outlet
collar directed 45º in relation to the horizontal, which will
allow you to choose the most suitable direction, either
horizontal or vertical, by merely installing a 45º elbow joint.
(Fig. 5)
To connect the chimney
to the stove, lead the tube internally directly against the collar,
adjusting it to its conical shape and sealing the joint using
refractory filler to ensure its airtightness. (Fig. 3)
The joints of the remaining tubes forming the chimney, in
the event of using simple metal tubes, must be sealed using
refractory filler.
Ensure that all of the tubes in the chimney are well
fitted and that their joints are fully airtight.
When connecting the stove to the chimney, elbow joints and long horizontal sections
must be avoided as they make the draught difficult and favour the formation of creosote and
soot. Ensure that the connection is made at an upwards slant.
Tube Ø150 on inside
Fig.3
Fig.
-
2
TAPAR
COVER
Fig. 4
Fig.-5
Bear in mind that the tubes may pass through ceilings and walls. This must always
be done using insulated tubes and suitable accessories. (See Fig. 4)
D.- SOME STANDARDS
Below are other standards that must be respected when building the chimney:
a) Use resistant and non-combustible materials. Do not mount cement asbestos
tubes.
b) Choose a route that is as vertical as possible. Do not connect various appliances
to the same chimney.
Fig.-6
c) Prevent the flue from ending in areas near to constructions and it must exceed the
closest peak in height, where there is a adjoining building.
Fig.-7
d) The inside walls must be perfectly smooth and free of obstacles. At the joints of
tubes with brick chimneys, avoid bottlenecks.
Fig.-8
e) It is very important for the tube joints to be well sealed to cover possible cracks
that allow air to enter.
Fig.-9
f) To check the airtightness of the chimney, cover the roof end and introduce paper
with damp straw into the chimney.
Fig.-10
g) It is very important for the chimney to stand out by more than one metre from the
highest part of the house. If the draught is to be increased, increase the height of the
chimney.
Fig.-11
h) The cowls must not hinder the draught.
Fig.-12
ii) Clean the chimney at least once a year.
Fig.-13
j) The joints of the tubes forming the chimney, in the event of using simple metal
tubes, must be sealed using refractory filler. Each tube must fit into the next to prevent any
creosote from reaching the outside.
k) The exterior metal chimneys must be built with special double heat-resistant tubes
for solid fuel.
3.- OPERATING
Once your Bennington stove has been installed and connected to the chimney, you
are ready to light the fire.
•
BE CAREFUL!:
THIS OPERATION PRODUCES HEAT. KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING AND
FURNITURE AT A DISTANCE. CONTACT WITH THE STOVE MAY CAUSE SKIN
BURNS.
Please read this chapter fully before lighting the stove for the first time. It explains
the controls and features of your wood burning stove, how to choose the wood, how to light
it and its daily use.
Although the operating of your stove is easy, the combustion process for solid fuels is
complex, given that various factors are involved and time and experience is required to
understand how it is done.
A.- CONTROLS AND FEATURES
Before lighting any fire, become familiar with the location and operating of the control
and parts of your stove and learn how to use them. (See Fig. 1 Page 4)
For your own safety, do not modify these parts under any circumstances.
1. DETACHABLE CONTROL ON THE FRONT DOOR:
The front door allows for
wood to be loaded into your stove. The control is detachable and, after operating with it, it
must be removed from its housing so as not to heat up while the stove is working. To open
the door, lift the control to the two o’clock position (on the clock) and pull the door. To close
the door, first fold the left door then the right, pressing and lowering the control to the four
o’clock position (on the clock). Pull on the door control slightly to ensure that the door is
well closed. Then remove the control from its housing and place it in the cold position
located to the left of the cinder tray.
2. CONTROL ON THE SIDE DOOR:
The side door allows for wood to be loaded
into your stove. The control is fixed. To open the door, turn the control to the twelve
o’clock position (on the clock) and pull the door. To close the door, place it in its vertical
closing position and press against the side, lower the control to the three o’clock position
(on the clock). Pull on the door slightly to ensure that it is well closed.
3. PRIMARY AIR CONTROL:
This control is located on the lower right hand side of
the front of the stove. The primary air control allows for the amount of air entering the
fireplace to be adjusted. Push the lever downwards to open the primary air control and
upwards to close it.
4. SECONDARY AIR SELF-ADJUSTMENT:
Secondary air is provided through the
baffle tubes and is distributed proportionally in the combustion chamber. The greater the
combustion the more heat and, as a result, greater draught and better secondary air
provision.
5. ASH PAN:
The ash pan tray is located underneath the tray. It collects the coals
from the fire and allows you to comfortably remove the ashes from your stove. The ash pan
is very easy to remove. When the stove is cold, push the ashes through the grill towards
the ash pan then turn the ash pan door control clockwise and pull to open. Remove the ash
pan by sliding it outwards carefully. After removing the ashes, push the ash pan inwards to
its position and close the ash pan door.
Do not light
the stove until the ash pan is in its position inside the stove and the
cinder door is closed. This may overheat and damage your stove.
B.- FUELS
Your Bennington wood burning stove is only designed to burn hardwood with a high
calorific power.
PRECAUTION
DO NOT USE CHEMICAL FLUIDS OR INFLAMMABLES SUCH AS PETROL,
NAPHTALENE, KEROSENE, DIESEL OILS, OILS, PELLETS, ARTIFICIAL WOOD OR
ANY OTHER MATERIAL TO LIGHT YOUR STOVE. DO NOT BURN RUBBISH.
As a guideline, some types of wood are listed with an approximate classification of
their energetic power:
•
HIGH: Apple, Black birch, Walnut, Brazilian cherry, Oak, White oak, Black beech
•
MEDIUM HIGH: Ash, Beech, Yellow birch, Maple, Red Oak
•
MEDIUM LOW: Black ash, White birch, Elm, Norwegian Pine, Tea pine, Cherry,
Tamarind
•
LOW: Pine, Cedar, Fir, Poplar, Lime
The quality of its wood affects the heat provided, the length of combustion and the
working order of your stove.
Soft woods that are low in calories generate high and fast combustion, while
hardwoods that are high in calories burn for a long time and produce more calories.
The humidity contained in wood also plays an important role in the working order of
the stove. Green woods contain a high level of humidity.
Therefore, green wood is difficult to light and must be stored for one year before
using in your stove.
To prepare green wood well, it must be split and piled to allow for contact with dry air
during one year.
Store the wood on planks or blocks to keep it off the ground and only cover the top of
the pile. Plastic or canvas that covers the sides of the pile of wood retain humidity and
prevent the wood from drying out.
Do not pile the wood near to the stove at the distances specified for combustible
materials. (See Page 19)
C.- LIGHTING YOUR STOVE
Once the controls on your stove are on and you have chosen the appropriate wood,
you are ready to light the fire.
The first time the stove is lit must be done slowly.
The cast iron must be warm: Excessive fire on a new stove may cause cracks in the
iron or produce damage to other parts of the stove. Furthermore, the refractory bricks on
the walls of the fireplaces must be slowly seasoned for a suitable length of time.
The bricks at the back and the left hand side of your fireplace preserve and excess
heat. Always keep them in position.
When lighting your first fire, the stove will give off some smoke and gas.
This is normal due to the evaporation of the paint and oil components used to make
the stove.
Where considered necessary, open a window to ventilate the room. The smoke and
gas will normally remain for the first 10 or 20 minutes after lighting. The smells and smoke
will disappear when the stove is “seasoned”.
The first few times the stove is lit, other smells may be produced from the materials in
the area near to the stove. Some of these materials may be cleaning solvents, paints,
cigarettes, smoke, dust, adhesives, carpets and new fabrics. These smells will disappear
over time. These smells may be lessened by opening the windows or any other means to
create ventilation around the stove.
If a smell persists, contact your supplier or the authorised technical service.
1. LIGHTING THE STOVE FOR THE FIRST TIME
h) Open the door and place a couple of lighting tablets on the base. Cross some
kindling over the tablets. The kindling will be around 10 pieces with a
diameter of 10/15 mm and a length of 25/40 cm.
i) Open the primary air control fully by pushing the lever downwards.
j) Light the tablets. Leave the front door ajar until the kindling begins to burn
and the draught begins to rise.
k) Close the door and allow the fire to light. Keep the door closed while the stove
is working. Ensure that the ash pan door is well closed.
l) KEEP AN EYE ON YOUR STOVE AT ALL TIMES to ensure a slow fire. The
first fire must heat the stove but must not burn when touched. Add a few logs
of wood to the fire to achieve the appropriate temperature the first time the
stove is lit.
m) Once the stove is hot, but does not burn when touched, shut off the primary air
by pushing the lever upwards and allow the fire to go out completely.
n) Allow your stove to cool completely.
The first time your stove is lit and the first time it is lit each season, you must follow
the process described above. Your patience will be rewarded by years of good working
order of your stove.
N.B.: Given that the gas temperatures have been low the first time the stove is lit, the
creosote has formed very quickly. Your door glazing will have become dirty. A later hot fire
will clean this.
2. NORMAL LIGHTING
Before lighting for normal operating, if your stove has not been used continuously for
a certain amount of time, we recommend you follow the procedure for the first time the
stove is lit at least to minimise the strain of a hot fire on a cold stove.
Before loading the stove, ensure that the ash pan door is closed and the cinder tray
is in place. If the ash pan door is open, the stove may overheat and become damaged.
For normal lighting, proceed as follows:
g) Open the door and place a couple of lighting tablets on the base of the
fireplace. Cross some kindling over the newspapers. The kindling will be
around 10 pieces with a diameter of 10/15 mm and a length of 25/40 cm.
h) Open the primary air control fully by pushing the lever downwards.
i) Light the tablets. Leave the front door ajar until the kindling begins to burn
and the draught begins to rise.
j) Close the door and allow the fire to light.
k) Once the kindling is lit, open the door and add logs, first small ones, to form
the fire. Ensure that the wood is away from the glass so that the glass
cleaning system may work correctly. On the other hand, keep the front door
and the cinder tray door closed while the stove is operating.
l) Once the fire is well lit, use the primary air to control the working level
required. Push the lever downwards opens the primary air control to achieve
a high working level and upwards to achieve a slow working level.
N.B.: When opening the door to load wood or replace the logs in your stove, we
recommend you first open it slightly, then wait a few seconds before opening it fully.
This will ensure the fireplace is smoke-free when the stove door is fully opened and that
no smoke enters the room. Likewise, reloading on a bed of red hot coals reduces the
smoke and will reach high temperatures quickly with fresh loads.
3. COMBUSTION LEVELS
HIGH COMBUSTION: Load the fireplace fully with wood on a bed of red hot coals or
on the flames and fully open the primary air control. A high level is recommendable once or
twice a day to heat the chimney and the stove well, thus helping prevent the creation and
accumulation of creosote.
MEDIUM COMBUSTION: Place the primary air control lever halfway along its run,
suitable for heating needs in the area to be heated. This level is suitable when the stove is
to be left unattended.
LOW COMBUSTION: Close the primary air control for slow combustion. A low level
of combustion for excessively long periods is not recommendable as it promotes the
accumulation of creosote.
The evacuation system must be frequently inspected if the low level of combustion is
maintained continuously.
4. PRECAUTIONS FOR EXCESSIVE FIRES
Excessive fires imply that the stove is operating at temperatures above those
recommended above in the COMBUSTION LEVELS section. Excessive fires must be
carefully avoided as they will cause damage to your stove.
The symptoms of an excessive fire, even during short periods of time, include
rumbling noises from stove and the chimney connection pipe and the decolouring of the
chimney tube.
Excessive fires may be caused by extreme draught in the chimney, unsuitable fuel or
an erroneous operation.
Correct a situation of excessive fire in the following way:
o
EXCESSIVE DRAUGHT: The depression of the draught must be no higher
than 2.5 mm.c.a. A draught exceeding this value requires a draught cutting
valve in the chimney.
o
UNSUITABLE FUEL: Do not burn coal, mounds of dry kindling, waxed logs or
another other that is not the natural wood recommended.
o
OPERATING ERROR: Ensure that all joints are in a good state of repair.
Replace any frayed or compressed joints. Do not light the stove with the front,
side or cinder door open.
Controlling the temperature is the best way of determining whether the stove has an
excessive fire. If you think your stove has an excessive fire, contact your supplier
immediately. Damage produced by excessive fire is not covered by the guarantee. The
results of an excessive fire may include: deformities or burning of internal parts,
decolouring and deformities on external parts and damage to the enamel.
N.B.: ANY SYMPTOM OF EXCESSIVE FIRE MAY ANNUL YOUR GUARANTEE!!
4.- MAINTENANCE
The temperature of the stove may be controlled using a special thermometer for
stoves, located in the centre of the worktop.
A.- PREVENTIONS AGAINST CREOSOTE AND ITS CLEANING.
To prevent the formation of creosote:
1. Keep the stove with the primary air control fully open for 30 minutes every day to
burn the creosote deposited inside the stove and the evacuation system.
2. After reloading the wood, keep burning with the primary air control fully open for
20 or 30 minutes. This form of operating ensures in advance the correct working order of
the secondary combustion that, when working, minimises the formation of creosote in the
chimney.
The chimney connector tube must be inspected at least every month during the
season of use of the stove to determine whether creosote has formed. If the creosote
residue has an accumulated thickness of 6mm., it must be removed to reduce the risk of
fire.
If the glass gets dirty often, the combustion temperature level is low, which implies
the risk of creosote forming.
The smoke evacuation system must be inspected at its connection with the stove
and at the top of the chimney. Cold surfaces tend to create deposits quickly and it is
therefore important to inspect the chimney at the top, as it is the coldest point: the opposite
to the connection with the stove.
The accumulated creosote must be removed using a special cleaning brush designed
for this purpose.
It is therefore recommendable to allow a professional to inspect the entire system,
clean it and repair it, where necessary, before each season of use.
B.- JOINTS
The joints must normally be changed every 2 or 3 seasons of use, depending on the
use of the stove. If the seal on the door is lost, a new joint ensures a suitable seal and
improves the working order of the stove. Contact your supplier for a set of joints for your
stove.
To replace the door joints, proceed as follows:
6. First remove the old joint using a tool or the tip of a knife.
7. Clean all of the joint channels with a wire brush to remove any remains of cement
and fibre.
8. Apply joint cement to the channels
9. Position the new joint in its place on the joint cement without pulling the material.
10. Close the door immediately to press the joint into place to ensure a valid seal.
The following joints must be used:
GLASS: 105 cm in length and 5 mm in thickness, (Code J316)
FRONT LEFT DOOR: 82 cm in length and 10 mm in diameter. Low density, black
beading (Code J38…)
FRONT RIGHT DOOR: 120 cm in length and 10 mm in diameter. Low density, black
beading (Code J38)
CINDER TRAY DOOR: 102 cm in length and 10 mm in diameter. Low density, black
beading (Code J38)
SIDE DOOR: 76 cm in length and 6.5 mm in diameter. Low density, black beading.
(Code J14)
C.- GLASS
Do not use your stove if the door glazing is broken. Do not hit or slam shut the front
door.
Where necessary, the door glazing can be cleaned with a Hergóm glass cleaner,
which your supplier will provide.
Never
try to clean the glass when the stove is working or when the glass is hot.
Most of the particles deposited can be cleaned following the cleaner handling
instruction.
To clean difficult particles, open the door, pull it upwards and remove from the stove,
leaving the turning pins in the door. (Be careful to save the pins and the washers to replace
the door).
Place the door on a table or workbench and apply the cleaner to the glass, leaving it
to work for a few minutes.
Leave the door in a horizontal position to allow the cleaner to penetrate into the
surface of the glass.
Dry the cleaner with a soft cloth.
Important:
Hitting or scratching the glass will damage the integrity of the glass.
Do not use knives or steel wool or any other abrasive material as a utensil to clean the
glass.
The glass in the door is ceramic, manufactured especially for use in wood burning
stoves.
Do not use to replace any other glass that is not ceramic glass manufactured for use
in these wood burning stoves. Change the glass through your supplier.
If the door glass breaks, it must be immediately replaced.
Contact your supplier to replace the glass, with the necessary instructions and parts
for the repair.
If you replace the glass yourself, use work gloves and safety goggles.
The procedure to change the glass and glass joints is as follows:
9. Open the door and pull it upwards and remove from the stove, leaving the turning
pins in the door. (Be careful to save the pins and the washers to replace the
door).
10. Place the door downwards horizontally on a flat surface.
11. Apply penetrating oil to the glass clamping screws. Remove the screws and lift up
the clamps and the ceramic fibres below them.
12. Carefully lift the damage door glass and throw it away.
13. Where necessary, replace the ceramic fibre beading. Pull it out of position and
clean away any remains. Apply special joint cement and position new ceramic
fibre beading in the size detailed above.
14. Place the glass over the joint in its position on the door.
15. Screw the glass retaining clamps back in, placing the corresponding ceramic fibre
underneath.
16. Re-install the door in its position.
D.- COLLECTING AND DISPOSING OFASHES.
Ashes will be collected when the stove is cold. Use a protective glove when the ash
pan is hot. Take extreme care when handling, storing or throwing away the ashes.
To remove the ashes from the fireplace, proceed as follows:
7. Sift the cinders through the grate with a scraper or other suitable instrument.
8. Open the ash pan compartment, turning the cinder tray door control clockwise
and carefully sliding out the ash pan.
9. Empty the ashes. The ashes must be thrown from the ash pan into a metal
container with a suitably sealed lid. Do not place any other object or waste inside
the container. Place the lid on the container and leave the ashes to cool. Do not
place the container on combustible surfaces or vinyl floors, as it may be
very
hot
.
10. While the ashes are disintegrating, place the closed ashes container on a non-
combustible floor or on the ground outside the home, away from any combustible
material.
11. Where necessary, clean the ash pan housing.
12. Reinsert the ash pan by pushing it back into its position. Ensure that the ash pan
is well in place.
Otherwise, the ashes may be removed using a shovel through the side or front door.
The cinders must remain in the closed container until they are all completely cold.
NEVER
place the ashes in wooden or plastic containers, in paper or plastic bags, no
matter how much time has gone by since the fire went out. The coals inside the bed of
ashes will keep in the heat for a long time, even when removed from the fireplace.
E.- CAST IRON
The external cast iron parts are fire-on with shiny enamel in various colours.
Enamelled iron parts can be cleaned using normal glass cleaner. With use, a very
fine network of linear cracks may become visible under the surface of the enamel. These
cracks are natural, due to the cooling and heating processes and do not represent a fault.
F.- CONTROLS
Your stove is an appliance that is subject to extreme temperatures and to the
corrosive effect of combustion waste. Its periodic maintenance is vital for a longer working
life and better use. For this, we recommend you frequently carry out the following controls:
1.- DURING THE SEASON OF USE
a) Visually inspect the chimney.
Clean the soot and tar if this has started to
accumulate on the inside walls of the stove.
b) Check that the doors close
tight and adjust where necessary.
2.- AT THE END OF THE SEASON
a) Inspect and clean the
chimney.
b) Run the vacuum cleaner
inside the stove and inspect it. Any soot or tar
(creosote) accumulating on the walls of your
stove will reduce its performance.
c) Inspect the door joints. These
must be replaced when the door does not shut
perfectly.
G.- CONNECTOR AND CHIMNEY
1.- INSPECTION
Certain sections of special T-shaped
tubes make inspection and maintenance
relatively easy.
By dismantling the lower T cover, the
combination of tubes can be cleaned from
above using a chimney brush.
Any waste falling inside the tubes will
be collected in a rubbish bag or bin at the
bottom of the chimney. A mirror held at an
angle allows for easy chimney inspection.
If you chimney is made of bricks,
instead of plate tubes we recommend you
install a hatch for its periodic cleaning and
inspection. Normally, this hatch will be
located at the bottom of the chimney (e.g. in
the basement of a house).
If your brick chimney was built without a hatch or cleaning door, then inspections
must be made from where your stove is connected to the chimney.
2.- CLEANING
The most effective way of cleaning the chimney is by using suitable chimney
brushes. The brushes must be as tight fitting as possible to the chimney section.
Fig. 14
To delay general cleaning, we recommend the periodic use of the HERGÓM Anti-
soot product, which can be found in any of our Distributors.
5.- PRODUCTS FOR PRESERVATION
Industrias HERGÓM S.A. supplies a series of products for the preservation of your
Stove and chimney:
Heat resistant paint, refractory filler, anti-soot, lighting tablets, glass cleaner, etc.
6.- SAFETY
A.- GENERAL PROCEDURES
There are certain risks to be taken into account when operating your solid fuel stove,
whatever the brand. These risks may be minimised if the instructions and recommendation
provided in this manual are followed.
Below are a series of standards and recommendations, although we especially
advise you to use your common sense:
1.- Do not excessively heat your stove for too long.
2.- Keep any combustible material (furniture, curtains, clothing, etc.) at a minimum
safety distance of 0.90 m.
3.- The ashes must be emptied into a metal container and immediately removed from
the house.
4.- Never use liquid fuel to light your stove. Keep any type of inflammable liquid
(Petrol, oil, alcohol, etc. ) away.
5.- Make periodic inspections of the chimney and clean it whenever necessary.
6..- Do not place the stove near to combustible walls.
Warning
Gas, wood or pellet fireplaces heat up when lit. As a result it is necessary to be
cautious and keep a certain distance away, especially children, old people, people
with special needs and pets while the fire is on.
Make sure that children and anyone else not used to the workings of a fireplace, are
supervised by an older person when near.
To avoid burns and also to protect vulnerable people it is advisable to use a fireguard
or screen. The use of heat resistant gloves are recommended when in contact with
the fireplace.
B.- DISTANCES TO COMBUSTIBLE SURFACES
When positioning the stove, bear in mind the necessary safety distances, both for the
stove and the chimney, from combustible surfaces (wooden or papered walls, wooden floor,
etc.).
If these surfaces are suitably protected, these distances may be reduced. (Fig.-14)
These same distances may be respected when the covering of walls or nearby areas
is susceptible to damage or deformity by the temperature (varnishes, paints, P.V.C., etc.).
DISTANCES TO SURFACES PARALLEL WALLS
SLANTING
WALLS
A B
C D E F G H J K L
SINGLE WALL CONNECTOR 300 460 680 500 460 840 350 230 330 600 1700
DOUBLE WALL CONNECTOR 300 400 680 450 460 840 300 230 330 600 1650
7.- DRAUGHT PROBLEMS
Below is a list of the problems common to any type of stove. All of these problems
can be corrected and sometimes only require a small readjustment for the stove to return to
its normal working order.
Remember that weather affects the operating of your stove.
If your stove leaks smoke inside the house, the most likely is the following:
-If your chimney is newly built:
a) The draught is insufficient.
b) The section or height is not appropriate.
c) There is a bottleneck somewhere in the chimney.
-If the chimney already existed:
a) The chimney is partially blocked by soot.
b) There is internal or external breakage where air is getting in.
c) There is less section or height than required by the new appliance.
Please go to Chapter II- INSTALLATION and carefully read Section B.- CHIMNEYS.
Fig. 15
Below is a troubleshooting guide that will help you solve any problems with your
stove:
A.- TROUBLESHOOTING
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE SOLUTIONS
Smoke comes out of
the stove Inappropriate handling of
the stove Open the primary air fully for one minute. Then open the door.
Cold chimney Pre-heat the chimney when lighting the cold stove.
Blocked chimney Inspect the chimney and the connector to ensure they are not
blocked or have an excessive accumulation of creosote.
Chimney too large Reinstall the chimney with the appropriate diameter
Narrow chimney Install an induced draught or replace the chimney.
Chimney too short Lengthen the chimney.
Chimney with infiltrations Seal the connections between the chimney sections and the
dirty door openings.
More than one appliance
connected to the chimney
Disconnect the other appliances and seal the holes.
AIR REBOUNDS TO
GAS EXPLOSIONS. Inappropriate handling of
the stove Completely open the primary air control on the stove for one
minute before opening the door. Keep the door completely
open for several minutes after each loading of fuel.
Extremely low
combustion level Use a suitable combustion level in your stove.
Excessive accumulation
of ashes. Empty the ash pan more frequently.
UNCONTROLLED
OR LOW
COMBUSTION
Badly sealed or open
door Close the door well or change the seal beading.
Excessive draught: Inspect the installation. Achieve a low combustion level or
install a draught cutting valve.
Deteriorated refractory
sealing filler Reseal the stove with refractory cement.
Excessively long chimney Shorten the chimney or install a draught cutting valve.
Chimney too large Reinstall the chimney with the appropriate diameter
Strong winds Install a cowl.
Excessive draught: Draught above 2.5 mm.c.a. can be corrected with the
installation of a draught cutting valve.
INSUFFICIENT
HEAT Bad quality or green
wood. Only use air-dried wood, preferably dried for at least one year.
Low combustion level Use a higher level to make your chimney work.
Air filtrations in the
chimney Change to a ready-made insulated chimney system or a
chimney with suitable measurements.
Outside of chimney cold. Reinstall or insulate your chimney.
Chimney or connection
tube leaking. Inspect the installation.
Too much heat lost in the
house Seal the windows and doors of the house.
DAMAGE TO THE
ENAMEL Inappropriate handling of
the stove Do not produce excessive fire in your stove. Control the
temperature of your stove. Only use suitable wood.
Excessive draught: Inspect the draught. It may need a draught cutting valve. Use
a low combustion level to make your stove work.
561
379
556
450
252
352
747
727
817
767
536
772
690
93
93
730
VERTICAL OUTLET
SMOKE VIEW
HORIZONTAL OUTLET
SMOKE WIEW
8.- TECHNICAL DATA
Specifications for the BENNINGTON mod. HERGÓM stove
Maximum power WOOD (Oak, beech, etc.) 13,1 Kw
Suitable for logs of wood up to a length of: 570 mm.
Front Door: Height 352 mm.
Width 536 mm.
Side Door: Height 379
Width 252
Smoke collar 150 mm.
φ
Int.
Metal chimney 150 mm.
φ
Int.
Recommended chimney height 5 to 6 metres
Minimum approximate brickwork chimney ............ 175 x 175 mm.
Smoke outlet......................................................... Horizontal/Vertical
Primary Air Control: Manually adjusted
Secondary Air Feed ............................... Venturi System
Weight .......................................................................... 210 Kg.
For other measurements, consult the Distributor or the Manufacturer. (Approximate Values)
INDUSTRIAS HERGÓM, S.A. is not responsible for any damage caused by any alterations to its products that have not
been authorised in writing or for faulty installations.
It also reserves the right to modify its products without prior notice.
Responsibility for manufacturing defects will be subjected to the criteria and verification of its technicians and, under all
circumstances, will be limited to the repair or replacement of its products, excluding any work or damage that said repair
may cause.
Fig. 16
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