Niles Audio PSW800 User manual

Brand: Niles Audio

Model: PSW800

Category: Musical Equipment

Type: User manual

Niles Audio PSW800, an in-wall subwoofer, seamlessly blends high fidelity and architecture. It features a mica-filled polypropylene woofer for transient speed and dynamics, dual voice coils for single or double woofer systems, and a selectable low-pass filter for customized sound. With its weatherproof construction and MicroPerf grilles, it's ideal for various environments and paintable to match any décor. Its easy retrofit installation makes it suitable for existing homes, while the three-stage system allows for flexible installation during construction.

B LENDING H IGH F IDELITY AND A RCHITECTURE

INSTALLATION & OPERATION GUIDE

MODEL

PSW

800

SUBWOOFER

Congratulations!

Thank you for choosing a Niles loudspeaker. With proper installation and operation,

you'll enjoy years of trouble-free use.

The PSW800 wall mount subwoofer is uniquely designed to provide unobtrusive low

frequency augmentation. The selectable high and low-pass filters make it suitable for use

with a wide variety of satellite speakers.

Niles manufactures the industry's most complete line of custom installation components

and accessories for audio/video systems. For a free full line catalog write: Niles, Catalog

Request, P.O. Box 160818, Miami, Florida 33116-0818

change product specifications without notice. Niles, the Niles logo, Blueprint Series In-Wall Loudspeakers, and Blending

High Fidelity and Architecture are registered trademarks of Niles Audio Corporation. QuickSnap, and MicroPerf are

trademarks of Niles Audio Corporation. Decora is a registered trademark of Leviton Manufacturing Co., Inc. Dolby is a

registered trademark of Dolby Laboratories Licensing Corporation. Dynamat is a trademark of Dynamic Control.

DS00206A

TABLE OF CONTENTS

FEATURES AND BENEFITS 2

HOW MANY SUBWOOFERS? 4

CONNECTIONS 5

IMPEDANCE 7

TREATMENT & PLACEMENT 9

INSTALLATION FUNDAMENTALS 10

INSTALLATION IN NEW CONSTRUCTION 14

INSTALLATION IN EXISTING CONSTRUCTION 15

FINAL INSTALLATION IN NEW OR EXISTING CONSTRUCTION 16

OPERATION 18

SPECIFICATIONS 19

WARRANTY REGISTRATION CARD 21

LIMITED WARRANTY 22

Features and Benefits

The PSW800 In-wall subwoofer includes an easy

access, baffle mounted high-pass filter to pre-

vent over-excursion of the satellite’s woofers.

The PSW800 In-wall subwoofer includes an

easy access, baffle mounted low-pass frequen-

cy selection switch.

Figure 2

Figure 3

Features and Benefits

Mica-Filled, Dual Voice Coil

Polypropylene Woofer

The mica-filled polypropylene woofer uti-

lized in the PSW800 is optimized for tran-

sient speed and dynamics. The mica filling

adds just the right amount of stiffness while

at the same time reducing the overall cone

weight. This combination offers phenome-

nal rigidity and stiffness-to-mass character-

istics that make it especially suited for low

frequency reproduction. Niles speaker

engineers have coupled this exceptional

cone material with a dual voice-coil drive

system that enables installers to custom

configure single or double woofer systems

to a stereo amplifier.

Figure 1

Model PSW800 Shown

New Construction Wings

Bracket

Frame

SpeakerBaffle

IR Knockout

Grille

Inverted Dust Cap

The inverted dust cap feature of the

PSW800 actually reinforces the cone to fur-

ther increase the stiffness-to-mass ratio and

reduce distortion. In a subwoofer applica-

tion, this dust cap inversion offers the addi-

tional benefit of reducing the “oil can” effect

that can cause traditional woofers to pro-

duce unwanted high frequency overtones.

High Power Handling

The PSW800 employs an exceptionally

heavy-duty magnet/voice-coil/spider assem-

bly that is capable of handling high power

amplifiers (up to 150 watts).

Infinite Baffle Design

The PSW800 is designed for optimum low

frequency reproduction in a traditional 2x4

stud wall with varying air volumes. It does

not require a special enclosure to provide

high performance.

Selectable Low-Pass Filter

Installers can select to roll off the high fre-

quencies from the PSW800 at 12dB per

octave at either 100Hz or 140Hz. This

selection is accomplished via baffle-mount-

ed controls that are accessible even after the

subwoofer has been installed.

Selectable High-Pass Filter

Installers can also select whether or not to fil-

ter the low frequencies from the satellite

speakers at a fixed frequency of 120Hz. Like

the low-pass filter, this selection is accessed

via baffle mounted controls.

Weatherproof Construction

All components of the PSW800 are weather-

proof. The aluminum grille and stainless steel

mounting screws are rustproof. This makes

the subwoofer ideal for moist environments

which would cause some brands of speakers

to discolor. Protected outdoor installations are

perfectly suited for the PSW800.

MicroPerf

™

Grilles

The PSW800 employs Niles’ exclusive

MicroPerf grille construction. The excep-

tionally tight hole pattern provides

acoustic transparency at all audio fre-

quencies and enables the woofer element

to remain invisible. MicroPerf grilles can

be painted to blend seamlessly with the

surrounding decor.

14 AWG Input/Output Terminals

The PSW800 is equipped with both left and

right speaker level input terminals to accom-

modate a stereo amplifier driving a single

subwoofer. Output terminals are also provid-

ed to utilize the switchable low-pass filter and

provide for convenient wiring to the satellite

speakers.

Easy Retrofit Installation in your

Existing Home

Designed for ease of installation, the Niles

mounting system makes retrofit installations

simple and fast. A supplied template assures

fast and accurate hole cutting. The bracket

slips behind the drywall and the screws

secure the bracket to the frame, sandwich-

ing the drywall between them. The speaker

baffle attaches to the frame, and the grille

mounts over the speaker.

Three Stage Installation System for

Remodels or New Construction

You install only the parts you need for a

particular stage of construction. When the

framing and wiring are finished, you

install the

bracket. After the drywall is up,

but before the painter begins to paint, you

install the

frame and provide the rustproof

aluminum

grilles to the painter so that

they can be painted to match the sur-

roundings. Only when construction is

completely finished do you put the valu-

able

speaker in the wall. You don’t have

to mask or prep the speaker for painting,

and worries about theft during the final

phases of construction are never an issue!

Features and Benefits

How Many Subwoofers?

For most applications a single PSW800’s is

appropriate. However, in large rooms, high

performance listening rooms or in home

theaters, an array of two or more PSW800

will deliver astounding results. Unlike

other subwoofer systems, a Niles

Subwoofer Array is concealed. Consider

the distance between the subwoofer(s) and

the listener, the size of the amplifier, and

the desired quality and volume of sound

when deciding how many PSW800s to

install in your home.

Single Stereo Subwoofer

One PSW800 can produce the bass sound

from both the left and the right channels

because of its unique dual voice coil

design. One voice coil powers the left chan-

nel and the other powers the right channel.

A stereo crossover divides the signal and fil-

ters it according to the settings of the switch-

es on the front panel. A single stereo sub-

woofer is compatible with any 4 ohm stable

amplifier. Eight ohm stable amplifiers may

be used with a Niles IM volume control (see

Impedance section on Page 7)

Dual Subwoofer Systems

Using two PSW800 subwoofers in a sys-

tem raises the maximum attainable volume

of the system by 3dB. Additionally, at

lower volumes, excursion — and therefore

distortion levels — are reduced. In a large

room, or a home theater system, the effect

on bass quality is extremely desirable.

Another 2dB increase is possible if the

voice coils of each are PSW800 paralleled.

This requires a multi-channel amplifier or

an amplifier capable of driving the 2 to 2.6

ohm load of the overall system.

VLSA Installations

A Very Large Subwoofer Array (VLSA)

installation lowers the amount of excur-

sion required to achieve a high sound

pressure level. Lowering excursion dra-

matically improves the quality of the

sound. VLSA installations are most appro-

priate when the listener appreciates detail

and bass extension, but must have a con-

cealed installation. A VLSA of four sub-

woofers must have a multi-channel ampli-

fier with one channel assigned to each

subwoofer.

(See Figure 7).

Decibels and Power

65dB Conversation at three feet.

75dB Sewing Machine at three feet.

85dB Vacuum Cleaner at 10 feet.

95dB Subway Train entering a station

at 20 feet.

3dB The smallest difference in volume

the human ear can easily detect.

10dB Perceived as twice as much loud-

ness if it is an increase (half as

much if it is a decrease).

Any speaker requires twice as much

amplifier power to increase 3dB and ten

times as much power to increase 10dB.

Comparison of 1, 2 or 4 Subwoofers

16’ x 18’ x 8’ Room @ 12’

25 Watts 100

Watts

1 Sub 95dB 101dB

2 Subs 100dB 106dB

VLSA of 4 Subs 103dB 109dB

2 x Watts = 3dB Increase in Volume.

2 x Subs = 3dB Increase in Volume.

2 x Subs = 1/2 the subwoofer excursion for

the same volume.

If you double the distance from the sub-

woofer to the primary listening position

you decrease the volume by 4 to 6dB.

Connections

Single Stereo Subwoofer

A four conductor wire (Left+, Left-, Right+

and Right-) 16 gauge or larger is run from

the amplifier location to the local volume

control.

(SeeFigure4).

From the local volume control, the four

conductor cable is run to the PSW800 and

connected to the Input connectors. A two

conductor wire is connected to each of the

stereo outputs and fed to the left and right

speakers. Now, the volume control will

raise and lower the volume for the sub-

woofer and the left and right speakers

simultaneously. Additionally, the crossover

is now connected so that the crossover

switches can be adjusted.

Dual Subwoofer Systems

A four conductor wire (Left+, Left-, Right+

and Right-) 16 gauge or larger is run from

the amplifier location to the local volume

control.

(SeeFigure5).

From the local volume control, a two con-

ductor cable is run to each of the PSW800s

and connected to either the left or the right

Input connectors.

Each of the satellite speakers must be con-

nected to the correct subwoofer. Typically,

a two conductor wire is connected from the

left channel output on the left channel sub-

woofer and fed to the left satellite speaker

and another two conductor wire connects

from the right channel subwoofer output to

the right channel satellite.

Connections

LEFT IN

LEFT OUT

RIGHT OUT

RIGHT IN

WF WF

SW2

SW1

—

PSW-800 PASSIVESUBWOOFER Niles Audio Corporation, Inc.

LEFT IN

LEFT OUT

RIGHT OUT

RIGHT IN

WF WF

SW2

SW1

—

PSW-800 PASSIVESUBWOOFER Niles Audio Corporation, Inc.

Left Right

PSW800 PSW800

Amplifier

Either

Input

Wire to

Corresponding

Output

Satellite Speaker Satellite Speaker

LEFT IN

LEFT OUT

RIGHT OUT

RIGHT IN

WF WF

SW2

SW1

—

PSW-800 PASSIVESUBWOOFER Niles Audio Corporation, Inc.

LEFT IN

LEFT OUT

RIGHT OUT

RIGHT IN

WF WF

SW2

SW1

—

PSW-800 PASSIVESUBWOOFER Niles Audio Corporation, Inc.

Left Right

PSW800 PSW800

Amplifier

Either

Input

Wire to

Corresponding

Output

Satellite Speaker Satellite Speaker

Figure 4

A Single PSW800 Hook-Up

Figure 5

A Dual PSW800 Hook-Up

Connections

Now, the volume control will raise and

lower the volume for the subwoofer and

the left and right speakers simultaneously.

Additionally, the crossovers are now con-

nected so that the crossover switches can

be adjusted to your requirements. You must

adjust the crossovers on each subwoofer

with this hook-up.

Optionally, a jumper of wire may be con-

nected between the L+ and the R+; and

between the L- and the R-. This connects

both voice coils of the PSW800, giving

you a 2dB increase in output. Since each

subwoofer’s impedance drops from 8

Ω to

Ω, make sure your amplifier is 2Ω stable

to accommodate the satellite speaker’s

impedance.

(See Figure 6).

Very Large Subwoofer Array

(VLSA)

Using four or more PSW800 subwoofers

in a system creates a system of unprece-

dented clarity, with stunning bass impact

and potentially extraordinary maximum

volume capability. Because of the

extremely low impedance of a parallel

VLSA system, multiple channel amplifiers

are normally used to power them.

Because of this, in-wall volume controls

are incompatible with VLSA systems.

In a system of this type, it is recommended

that the satellite speakers be driven full

range (or with an external electronic

crossover) by a separate amplifier channel.

Connections are straight-forward; two

conductor wires connect each amplifier

channel to each individual subwoofer.

(SeeFigure7).

Each PSW800 has a jumper installed to

parallel the voice coils for maximum effi-

ciency.

(SeeFigure6).

The crossover controls on each subwoofer

affect only the subwoofer response. Level

controls on the amplifiers facilitate blend-

ing and compensation for placement.

Speaker Wire

For most applications, we recommend you

use 16 or 18 gauge wire. For wiring runs

longer than 80 feet we recommend 14

gauge wire. The spring loaded terminals of

the PSW800 speakers will accommodate

up to 12 gauge wire directly. Larger sizes

can be accommodated via pin connectors.

When you run wire inside walls, special

jacketing (CL-2 or CL-3) is required to both

protect the wire and for fire prevention. In

some areas conduit is required. For a trou-

ble-free installation, low voltage wire such

as speaker wire must be run in accordance

with the National Electrical Code and any

applicable provisions of the local building

code. Consult your local Niles dealer or

your building contractor if you are unsure

of code requirements in your area.

Figure 6

Connecting the two voice coils in parallel with a

jumper (a piece of speaker wire).

LEFT— IN

RIGHT— IN

WF WF

SW2

SW1

–

PSW-800 PASSIVE SUBWOOFER

SI-1230

Subwoofers

Figure 7

Connections to a VLSA are normally made from

each PSW800 to a multi-channel amplifier like

the Niles SI-1230 twelve-channel amplifier.

Impedance

With One or Two Subwoofers

When one or two PSW800 subwoofers

are connected to the satellite speakers, the

overall system impedance to the amplifier

lowers.

System Impedance in Ohms (Ω)

One or Two Subwoofers

Ω Sats 4Ω Sats

1 Sub 4

Ω 2.6Ω

2 Subs @8Ω each 4Ω 2.6Ω

2 Subs @4Ω each 2.6Ω 2Ω

If the impedance is too low for your ampli-

fier, utilize a Niles speaker selector or IM

volume control to match the impedance.

VLSA (Four or More Subwoofers)

A VLSA installation lowers the amount of

excursion required to achieve a high

sound pressure level. Lowering excursion

dramatically improves the quality of the

sound. VLSA installations are most appro-

priate when the listener appreciates detail

and bass extension, but must have a con-

cealed installation.

Each subwoofer should have its voice

coils connected in parallel for full output,

therefore

the impedance of each is four

ohms

. Because of this low impedance, a

multi-channel amplifier stable to four

ohms is the best way to drive more than

two subwoofers. Each PSW800 is con-

nected to its own channel of the multi-

channel amplifier.

Check Your Amplifier’s Specs

Every amplifier has a minimum impedance

specification. Check your owner’s manual

for the specification for four ohm low

impedance drive capability. If there is no

clear indication and your amplifier or

receiver has two sets of speaker terminals

(typically labeled “A” and “B”) your ampli-

fier may be capable of driving a four ohm

load. Perform the following test to be sure:

Parallel/Serial Speaker Connection Test

1. Hook up one pair of speakers to the “A”

speaker terminals of your amplifier.

Leave the “B” terminals unconnected to

speakers.

2. Engage both the “A” and the “B”. Listen

for sound.

If your amplifier plays sound when “A”

and “B” are engaged, it is capable of dri-

ving a four ohm speaker load. If your

amplifier does not play sound when “A”

and “B” are selected, it is only capable of

driving an eight ohm speaker load. An

eight ohm stable amplifier may only be

used with a PSW800 satellite/subwoofer

system by installing an impedance magni-

fying volume control.

An amplifier stable to four ohms may be

connected without impedance matching

devices. Parallel connections via the “A”

speaker terminals to one or two PSW800

subwoofers (If the voice coils are not in par-

allel) and one pair of eight ohm satellite

speakers results in a four ohm load.

The “B” speaker terminals cannot be used

to power a second pair of speakers any-

more.

The low impedance drive capability

of your amplifier is already utilized by the

satellite/subwoofer combination. If you are

connecting other speakers in other rooms

you must install either a speaker selector or

impedance magnifying volume controls.

A few professional/audiophile amplifiers

advertise the capability of driving two

ohm speaker loads. These amplifiers may

be used without impedance matching

devices if the rating is quoted as “RMS” or

“Continuous” power.

Impedance

Using Speaker Selectors With

Standard Volume Controls

In multi-room systems with standard vol-

ume controls any

Niles speaker selector

will maintain a four ohm load if you leave

one set of room outputs unused for every

speaker system with an impedance of less

than four ohms (such as a PSW800 con-

nected to a pair of four ohm satellite

speakers). The protection switch must be

constantly engaged. Niles HDL series

speaker selectors have a rear panel con-

stant protection feature.

(SeeFigure8).

The benefit of a speaker selector is that

even with the protection circuit constant-

ly engaged, more power will be delivered

to any single pair of speakers playing by

itself (all other speakers off).

In a multi-room system there is one indis-

pensible control for true convenience—a

local volume control. It allows you to

adjust the volume of the speakers and the

subwoofer without leaving the room.

Niles makes a wide range of high perfor-

mance indoor and outdoor volume controls

in Standard or Decora

style face plates

(just like your light switches and dimmers).

All of these volume controls enable full

power to be delivered to each speaker sys-

tem when turned all the way up.

The combination of a speaker selector and

a standard volume control will deliver

high volume when only one pair of speak-

ers is playing.

Using Impedance Magnifying

Volume Controls

The simplest way to increase the imped-

ance of a satellite/subwoofer system is to

install a Niles VCS-2D-IM or VCS-2S-IM

impedance magnifying volume control

instead of a standard volume control. This

control has a behind the wall jumper which

is set at the time of installation to “magnify”

the speaker system’s impedance.

(SeeFigure9).

For example: In the two times position, an

IM volume control will enable an eight

ohm stable amplifier to play a 4 ohm

speaker system without overheating. The

available power will decrease, which you

will perceive as a 3dB drop in maximum

undistorted volume.

If the jumper is set to the 4x position, a

6dB drop in volume will be perceived.

If the jumper is set to the 8x position, a

9dB drop in volume will be perceived.

A 10dB drop is perceived as half as loud,

so there are limits to the amount of magni-

fication you can use unless the amplifier is

very powerful (3dB increase every time

you double the power) or you never listen

at high volumes. Consult the Decibels and

Power chart on page 4.

Impedance

16x

MAGNIFICATION

FA CT O R

JP1 (LEFT)

16x

MAGNIFICATION

FA CT O R

(RIGHT) JP2

➟

Figure 8

Setting the constant protection switch on the

Rear Panel of a Niles HDL series speaker

selection system.

Treatment & Placement

Typically, sheetrock encloses the sub-

woofer in most installations. Sheetrock has

a fairly loud resonant “twang” compared

to the rigid non-resonant enclosures of

most floor standing subwoofers. None of

the following modifications are absolutely

necessary, however any one or combina-

tion of them will improve the performance

of the subwoofer.

Minimum Enclosure Size

The PSW800 will produce magnificent

results if the wall cavity behind the woofer

is a minimum of 1900 cubic inches. If the

wall studs center measure

4” deep (2x4) and are spaced 14-1/4” apart

(16” spacing) you would want the length of

the air cavity to be a minimum of 33-1/3”.

A larger cavity is fine.

Insulation

Lay a batten of fiberglass insulation (e.g.R-19

un-batted insulation) behind of the speaker.

If you have more than one subwoofer in the

room, place the same amount of insulation

behind each subwoofer. If your enclosure is

smaller than the recommended 1900 cubic

inches, try packing more insulation into the

space behind the speaker. This effectively

increases the enclosure size.

Enclosure Bracing

Insert small pieces of 1x2 or 1x1 scrap

wood as wedges between the front and

back panels of sheetrock if possible. Do

not use too long of a piece as you could

create a bulge in the wall surface.

Enclosure Lining

Purchase some subwoofer damping materi-

al from a car stereo store (there are various

brands available, e.g. Dynamat

™

). Apply

the damping material to the back of the

wall behind the PSW800 and to the

sheetrock surrounding the wall beside the

subwoofer.

Speaker Placement Techniques

Although the PSW800 has extensive ability

to compensate for unusual placements with

its crossover switches; placement is still the

primary tool for satisfying your particular

listening needs.

Maximizing Output

The Boundary Effect – Placing your sub-

woofer near the floor or in a corner will

increase the volume of bass sound pro-

duced by the subwoofer! This is called the

boundary effect. Generally, you can

expect a 3dB increase in sound pressure

level by harnessing the boundary effect.

Proximity – Place the subwoofer as close

as possible to the primary listening posi-

tion. Sound dissipates indoors at approxi-

mately 4dB to 6dB for each time you dou-

ble the distance from the subwoofer to the

listener. Therefore you can expect a 4dB to

6dB increase in output every time you

halve the distance from the subwoofer to

the listener.

Improving the Stereo Image

Place the subwoofer(s) as close as possible

to the satellite speakers.

Treatment & Placement

Installation Fundamentals

Introduction

If you have doubts about whether you are

capable of installing an in-wall speaker,

consult a Niles dealer or professional

installer. They have special tools, tech-

niques, and experience to make the impos-

sible possible. The installer can provide you

with an estimate before any work is done.

Running the Speaker Wire in

New Construction

Plan to schedule the speaker wiring after

the electrical wiring is finished. That way

you can avoid wire routes which could

potentially induce hum over the speaker

wire. The basic rules are:

• Never run speaker wire through the

same hole as an electrical cable.

• Never run speaker wire into the same

J-box as electrical cable.

• Avoid running the speaker wire beside the

electrical cable. Keep it at least three or four

feet away from any electrical power cable.

Side-by-side wiring is unavoidable in partic-

ular spots in every house, just move the

speaker wire route away as soon as possible.

If construction forces a side by side run for

more than ten feet, install metal conduit or

shielded speaker wire. Low-voltage wires

such as doorbells, intercoms, telephone,

security, or television cannot cause interfer-

ence or hum on your speaker wires, so you

can safely run all of them at the same time,

through the same holes, side-by-side.

Before you drill any holes, mount p-rings

or open backed J-boxes where the vol-

ume controls and stereo equipment will

be. If you are using the optional 800 New

Construction Bracket kit-(FG00321)

attach the wings and install them as

instructed on pg.14, Installation in New

Construction.

(See Figure 15 and 16).

Safety First!

Wear gloves, safety goggles and head pro-

tection when drilling

. Avoid nails, they

ruin bits and they can cause injury.

Drilling

Use a bit that is large enough for the wires

you plan to run. An auger bit is the pre-

ferred bit for rough-in wiring. It will actual-

ly pull itself through the wood, so that the

drill motor, not you, does most of the

work. You will be drilling a lot of holes, so

this is important.

Always drill the holes in the center of the

stud. If you have to notch the stud or drill

the hole closer than one inch from the edge

of the stud, protect the wire with a nail

plate

(See Figure 10).

When drilling holes in ceiling joists drill in

the center of the joists and try to locate the

hole near the end of the joist. DO NOT

drill through a “gluelam” or any load bear-

ing beam without the direction of your

contractor.

Try to line the holes up perfectly, because it

makes pulling the wire much easier.

Installation Fundamentals

Figure 10

Installation Fundamentals

A good technique is to snap a chalk line

across the face of the studs or against the

bottom of the ceiling joists. Then work

backward so that you can always see the

holes you have already drilled. Paying care-

ful attention to this will save you a lot of

time later on!

Pulling the Cable

Pull the cable in sections (from the stereo to

the volume control, from the volume con-

trol to the speaker). Start with the longest

sections and use left over wire to complete

the short sections. If you plan to pull many

rooms at the same time through a central

route, walk off the distance to each destina-

tion, add a generous fudge factor for turns

and other obstacles, then cut off each sec-

tion so that you have a bundle of wires you

can pull at once.

Whenever you run the wire further than

four and one half feet from a hole in a stud

or joist (open attic space, going up walls,

etc.), fasten the wire to the joists or studs

using cable clamps or appropriately sized

wire staples. The wire should not have

large sags in it, nor should it be too tight.

Try to protect the wire from being stepped

on in attics or other unfinished crawl

spaces. There are guard strips, raceways

and conduits which can be used to protect

the cable. Consult the local building code

for special requirements in your area.

Concealing Speaker Wire in

Existing Walls

This is actually a fairly simple task if you

restrict your choice of speaker locations

and wire routes to the ceilings or interior

walls of your home. Interior walls in almost

all North American residences are hollow,

so it is easy to flush mount speakers into

them and route new speaker cable around

the house. What you see when you look at

the painted wall board, plaster, or paneling

is only the skin of the wall. Behind the skin

is the skeleton; two-by-four wood or metal

“studs” running vertically from the floor to

the ceiling in walls and two-by-six or larger

“joists” running horizontally in the ceilings

and floors. In between the studs and the

joists is the space for the wiring and plumb-

ing of your home.

Exterior walls are different. They must insu-

late the house from the heat and cold out-

side, so they are stuffed with insulation. The

national building code requires that the hol-

low wall space in exterior walls be broken

by a horizontal stud placed between the

vertical studs. This “fire blocking” makes it

very difficult to retrofit long lengths of wire.

In some areas of the country the exterior

walls are constructed of solid masonry, and

have no hollow space for speaker wires.

Start by examining all the possible routes

you might take to run the speaker wire

from the speaker to the volume control

and back to the stereo. Use a stud sensor

or other device to locate the internal

structure of the wall. You want to avoid

all studs or joists. A typical route would

be: from the speaker location up the

inside of the wall to a new hole drilled

into the top “plate” (horizontal two-by-

four at the top of the inside of the wall),

into the attic crawl space, then down to

the volume control location through

another top plate, back up to the attic,

across the attic, and finally down anoth-

er plate to the wall behind the stereo sys-

tem itself

(See Figure 11). The other

very common route is through the bot-

tom plate of the wall into an unfinished

basement or crawl space.

Installation Fundamentals

Identify where all of your electrical,

phone, and TV wiring is likely to be and

plan to route around it all. You can acci-

dentally induce 60 Hz hum on your

speakers if you run your speaker wire right

beside electrical wire for more than a few

feet. Try to keep speaker wire running par-

allel to power cables at least 3 feet away.

To find exactly where an electrical cable is

routed, try inspecting the inside of the wall

by turning off the breaker for a particular

power outlet or switch, removing the

cover plate and switch or

receptacle, and shining a

penlight into the wall. If you

have access to an attic or

basement space you can

quickly see which part of the

wall space the wire is free of

obstructions

(See Figure 12).

When you don’t have access

above or below the wall, try

to estimate the existing wire

and pipe locations from the

positions of electrical outlets

and plumbed fixtures on both

sides of the wall. Take a look

at the outside of your house

too, sometimes conduit, vents

or drain pipe will be visible

that give useful information.

Choose the route with the

fewest potential obstacles.

If your house is built on a slab or you are

wiring between two finished floors, look

for baseboards which could be removed

and replaced with the wire behind them.

Doorjambs can be removed and often

have enough space for speaker wire all

the way around the door

(See Figure 13).

Sometimes, an under-the-carpet run is

possible (there are special flat speaker

wires made for under-the-rug wire runs).

As a last resort, heating and air condition-

ing vents can be used as wire raceways for

Figure 11

Figure 12

Unobstructed space

for speaker wiring

Speaker

Location

Volume

Control

Location

Stereo

Location

Installation Fundamentals

plenum rated wire (check your local

building codes, some municipalities

require conduit).

In traditional wood stud/drywall construc-

tion you can cut the hole for the speaker

and utilize the large hole to auger holes

across, up or down the wall for as far as

your drill bit will take you. If you have

matching paint and take reasonable care in

patching you can cut a hatch in the dry-

wall at each stud, run your wire, and patch

and touch-up the wall

(See Figure 14).

When you are dealing with the unknown

because of the structure of your home, or

with difficult to patch wall materials like

plaster, lath and plaster, faux finishes,

wallpaper etc., be patient. A careful study

of the potential problems before you start

the job will pay off.

Figure 13

Figure 14

Installation in New

Construction

Stage One: Before Drywall is Hung

Insulating the Wall Cavity.

If feasible, fill the wall cavity with insulation

at this point

Mounting The Model 800

New Construction Bracket

The hole saving bracket enables a faster

and cleaner final installation of the speaker.

It forces the drywall installer to cut out the

speaker hole for you and provides wire ties

for the speaker wire, reducing the risks of

accidental loss or movement of the wire. In

addition, it enables you to align your speak-

ers with other ceiling fixtures with great

accuracy since you can really see exactly

where the speaker will be.

To install the bracket, first attach the

QuickSnap

™

new construction wings to the

bracket by snapping them into the sides of

the bracket. The wings can be shortened by

breaking them along the scored lines if their

length will interfere with a corner or eaves.

The wings and brackets have centering lines

to simplify the placement of the speaker.

Screw one side of the assembled bracket

with wings to the joist using one of the

supplied screws. Level the bracket. Screw

the other side of the bracket/wing assem-

bly to the joist. Two screws on each side

makes for a very secure installation.

Secure the wire to the bracket using the

bracket’s wire tie

(See Figure 15). The

drywall installers will cut the drywall to

the exact size of the bracket.

Installation in New Construction

Figure 15

New Construction Wings

Bracket

Frame

Grille

Installation In Existing Construction

Installation of

Brackets, Frames

and Grilles in

Existing Walls

IMPORTANT: Before you cut into any

wall, review the sections on running

wire and speaker placement.

1. Drill a 1/8” pilot hole just barely

through the wallboard or dry wall (1/2” to

5/8” deep in most homes) about an inch

below the center of your proposed speak-

er location (an inch to the side if you are

mounting the speaker horizontally). BE

VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DRILL

THROUGH EXISTING WIRES, PIPES, OR

STRUCTURE. IF YOU FEEL ANY EXTRA

RESISTANCE AS YOU ARE DRILLING,

STOP. Cut a piece of coat hanger equal to

the width of the bracket. Bend the wire in

half creating a right angle. Poke the “L-

shaped” wire into the pilot hole and turn it

in a complete circle. If it turns freely,

repeat the procedure from a hole about an

inch above the center of your proposed

speaker location

(See Figure 16).

If the wires movement is obstructed by a

pipe or cable, fill the hole (s) with spackle

or other patching compound and try

another location.

2. When determining the final location of

the cutout keep in mind that the frame

and bracket will extend beyond the

cutout. Make sure that you do not place

the edge of the cutout directly next to a

stud. Locate the studs using a stud sensor

or hand-knocking. Once you have deter-

mined the correct position for the cutout,

hold the supplied template up to the wall

surface. Level the template in either the

horizontal or the vertical position and

mark the wall with a pencil.

Drill the four corners with a

1/4” drill bit.

3. If you are cutting a painted

or wall papered drywall use

a sheetrock or keyhole saw.

Cut the hole with the saw at

a 45 degree angle. That way,

Figure 16

Figure 17

the drywall section can be replaced clean-

ly if there is an unseen obstruction behind

the wall. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO

SAW THROUGH EXISTING WIRES, PIPES,

OR STRUCTURE. IF YOU FEEL ANY

EXTRA RESISTANCE AS YOU ARE CUT-

TING, STOP.

4. If you are cutting into lath and plaster

walls, use masking tape to outline your

penciled marks, drill the four corners with

a 1/4” bit and use a razor to score the

plaster down to the lath beneath. Then use

a chisel to remove all of the plaster within

the taped outline. Finally, insert a metal

cutting blade into a sabre saw and very

slowly and carefully saw the lath. Sawing

the lath can easily vibrate plaster off the

wall. If you have the patience, use a pair

of tin snips to slowly nip away at the lath

instead. There is no risk with this method,

it is just time consuming.

Final Installation In New Or Existing Construction

Final Installation

in New or Existing

Construction

1. If it is possible to lay a batt of insulation

into the wall cavity, do so. Remember to

use equal amounts of insulation for each

speaker. Install any other wall cavity

improvements or modifications at this time.

2. Separate the speaker wire so that at least

two inches of each conductor are free.

3. Strip one half inch of insulation from the

end of each conductor of the speaker wire.

4. If you have gold pin connectors which

you wish to use, affix them to the stripped

wire ends now.

5. Connect one stripped wire end of the

wire connected to the amplifiers right chan-

nel output to the black and one to the red

input terminals labeled for the right chan-

nel. Pay attention to the markings on the

wire. Repeat for the left channel.

6. Connect the wire which runs to the

satellite speakers to the left and right output

terminals. Pay attention to the markings on

the wire.

7. Slip the mounting bracket through the

hole and pull it toward you so that its front

edge slides into the hole and stops in place.

8. Attach the frame to the bracket by screw-

ing the frame to the bracket using the sup-

plied screws. Do not overtighten the screws,

this will distort the frame and the grilles will

not fit (this is not permanent, just loosen the

screws and the grille will pop in). The

screws should pull the frame and bracket

together (sandwiching the drywall) so that

the frame is absolutely flush with the wall

surface. There should be no gaps between

the wall and the frame

(See Figure 17).

9. Installing a Niles MS

-1 MicroSensor

™

There is a 1/2" round molded "IR Sensor

Knockout" on the face of the speaker baf-

fle. To prevent damage to the crossover

network you must remove the knockout

from the rear of the speaker. Do not

attempt to remove the knockout with the

speaker face up. Lay the speaker face

down on a clean carpet or rug. Put the tip

of a screwdriver into the center of the

round "knockout" and sharply tap the

screwdriver handle as necessary. Install

the MS-1 using its mounting hex nut and

washer so that it is tightly secured to the

speaker. Connect all wires and continue

your installation.

10. Setting the High-Pass Filter

When the “SAT” filter is in the CUT posi-

tion, all of the bass energy will be pro-

duced via the PSW800. When the switch

is in the FULL position, both the satellite

speakers and the PSW800 will reproduce

the bass signal. Typically, satellites with

woofers that are 5-1/4” or smaller will

sound best with the filter on. Listen to a

loud and well recorded bass passage to

evaluate.

11. Setting the Subwoofer Low-Pass Filter

With the “SUB” switch in the 100Hz posi-

tion, the PSW800 will only reproduce

bass below one hundred cycles. When the

switch is in the 140Hz position, the

PSW800 will reproduce bass below 140

cycles. Depending on the size of the

room, the type of satellite speaker and the

subwoofer position, you will prefer one

setting to the other. Listen to a loud and

well recorded bass passage to evaluate.

12. Install the grille into the speaker. The

grilles should fit snugly. If you have difficulty

fitting them in, try loosening the screws used

to secure the frame to the bracket slightly

(excessive tightening can distort the shape of

the frame holding the grille in place).

Painting the Speakers

All models may be painted. The plastic will

readily accept most paints.

The subwoofers must be masked prior to

painting them. The inside rectangular por-

tion of the hole template can be used as a

paint mask. Remove the outside portion of

the template by gently pulling along the

perforation. Affix the mask to the front of

the speaker by friction-fitting the mask into

the bezel.

The grilles should be painted before they

are installed. For all models, the best

results will be obtained by using a spray

gun or airless sprayer, thinning the paint

(prevents clogging of grille holes), and by

applying several light coats instead of one

heavy one.

Speaker/Subwoofer Phase

Speaker wire has two conductors. One

conductor is attached to the negative (–)

terminals and one conductor is attached to

the positive (+) terminals of both your

speaker and your amplifier. Usually, the

wire is marked for your convenience.

There are different ways wires are marked:

a stripe on one wire, a ribbed area of one

conductor you can only feel, different col-

ors of metal wire on each conductor, or

there might be a fabric strand or string

wound into one of the conductors. Of

course, there are some wires which appear

completely identical. Be careful, or you

might make a mistake.

If you make a mistake, there are three pos-

sibilities:

1) Subwoofer Input Phase Reversal

The Left Input of the subwoofer is out of

phase with the Right Input. If this is the

case, you will hear almost no output out of

the subwoofer when playing a loud bass

passage. Try reversing one of the subwoofer

inputs. If the sound gets a great deal louder,

that was the problem. If bass sound was

reduced, return the connections to their

original state.

2) Subwoofer /Satellite Relative Phasing

An acoustically out-of-phase sat/sub combi-

nation works against each other and the

sound of the overall system will be lacking

in bass. This might be because of the

posi-

tion of the subwoofer

rather than an error in

wiring. Try reversing the phase of both the

left and the right outputs of the subwoofer.

Make sure you evaluate (listen) from the

primary listening position.

Final Installation In New Or Existing Construction

3) Satellite Left-Right Phase Reversal

If the right satellite is reversed in phase from

the connections on the left satellite, you

will hear reduced bass and a “phasey” dif-

fused vocal image. If you suspect the sound

is not right and you cannot see any mark-

ings on the wire, try this simple test:

1. Stand half way between the two satellite

speakers.

2. Play some vocal music with the amplifier

or radio set to Mono.

3. Listen to the apparent placement of the

vocals.

4. Turn off the amplifier and reverse one of

the connections on the subwoofer.

5. Repeat the listening test with the same

setting of the volume control. When

the sound has a richer bass, is slightly

louder and the vocal image is

“focused” the satellites are working

together or “in-phase”.

Operation

Congratulations

A concealed PSW800 subwoofer installa-

tion frees you to use your tone controls,

play the system loudly and enjoy deep

extended bass, even if your satellite speak-

ers are small. When used with satellite

speakers that have substantial bass of their

own, the PSW800 tightens the deep tones

and augments the bass musically.

Listening at Higher Volumes

It requires more power to achieve a reason-

able volume of sound in a large room than

it does in a small room. It is possible (even

if you are not a teenager) to turn the vol-

ume so high that the amplifier

runs out of

power

. This creates “clipping” distortion. If

you are using an extremely powerful ampli-

fier it may be possible to hear clicking or

buzzing sounds from the subwoofer as it

tries to reproduce too loud a sound. If you

hear these sounds turn the volume down.

More typically you will hear clipping dis-

tortion through your satellite speakers.

Clipping distortion makes treble sound very

harsh and unmusical. When you hear harsh

sounding treble from any good speaker,

turn the volume down immediately! Those

harsh sounds are masking some much

more powerful ultra-high-frequency sound

spikes which will quickly damage any fine

loudspeaker. You are much less likely to

damage a speaker with a large amplifier

because it will be very loud indeed before

it produces any clipping distortion.

Cleaning

You can clean the speaker with a damp-

ened soft cloth or paper towel. If the speak-

er is mounted high up on the wall, use a

broom to gently brush it off.

Specifications

Model PSW800

Driver Complement

8” Mica-filled polypropylene dual voice coil

woofer with inverted butyl-rubber suspension

and dust cap

Design Principle

Infinite baffle for large and varying air volumes

Recommended Amplifier Power

Ten to one hundred fifty watts per channel

Impedance

8 Ohm - Single Subwoofer in Stereo

4 Ohm - Single Subwoofer with Voice Coils

Paralleled for full monophonic output

Frequency Response

35 Hz to 140 Hz, plus or minus 3dB

(on axis)

Sensitivity

89 decibels for 2.83 volts of pink noise,

measured at 1 meter on axis

Overall Exterior Frame Dimensions

10-3/16” x 14-1/4”

Depth Behind Wall

3-3/4” (assumes 1/2” drywall)

Wall Cut-Out Dimensions

9-1/8” x 13-1/8”

Connections

Left and right channel input and outputs via

spring loaded push terminals. Accommodates

up to 14 gauge wire.

Specifications

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Niles Audio PSW800 User manual

Brand: Niles Audio

Model: PSW800

Category: Musical Equipment

Type: User manual

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Niles Audio PSW800 User manual

Niles Audio PSW800 User manual

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