Kenmore 385.15512 User manual

Category
Sewing machines
Type
User manual
®
SEWING MACHINE
Owner's Manual
MAQUINA DE COSER
Manual de Instrucciones
MACHINE A COUDRE
Manuel d'instructions
Model, Modelo, ModUle 385.15512000
744-800-072 Sears, Roebuck and Co,, Hoffman Estates, IL 60179 U.S.A, _.sears.com
mMPORTANT SAFETY iNSTRUCTiONS
CAUTION
Your sewing machine is designed and constructed only for HOUSEHOLD USer
Before using this sewing machine, read this manual and follow all Safety Rules and Operating Instructions.
DANGER- Toreducetheriskofelectricshock:
1 This sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this sewing machine from the
electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
2. Always unplug before replacing a sewing machine bulb Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts
3. Do not reach for a sewing machine that has fallen into water. Unplug immediately.
4. Do not place or store this sewing machine where itcan fall or be pulled into a tub or sink Do not place or drop it into water
or other liquid.
WARNING-To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:
1. Do not allow this sewing machine to be used as a toy Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is used by
or near children
2_ Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this owner's manual.
Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this owner's manual
3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped
or damaged, or dropped intowater
Return this sewing machine to the nearest Sears store or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical
adjustment.
4 Never operate this sewing machine with any air opening blocked. Keep ventilation openings of this sewing machine and
foot controller free from accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.
5 Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
6. Do not use outdoors.
7 Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered°
8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off ("O") position, then remove plug from outlet.
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord,
10 Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle
11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break
12. Do not use bent needles.
13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
14. Switch this sewing machine off (" 0") when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as threading the needle,
changing the needle, threading the bobbin or changing the presser foot, and the like.
15. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any
other adjustments mentioned in this owner's manual
SAVE TH ESE INSTRUCTIONS
When using your sewing machine for the first few times, place a waste fabric under the presser foot and run
J
the machine without thread for a few minutes.. Wipe away any oil which may appear.
WARRANTY
FULL 25 YEAR WARRANTY ON DEFECT IN MATERIAL OR WORKMANSHIP
For 25 years from the date of purchase Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which
appear n the "nternalmechanical part of the sewing machine
FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF SEWING MACHINE
For two years from the date of purchase Sears will free of charge, repair defects n matera or workmansh p wh ch
appear in the electrical and electronic equipment of the sewing machine including motor, wiring, electronic components,
switch and speed control
FULL 90-DAY WARRANTY ON ALL PARTS AND MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS
For 90 days from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge replace any parts and provide mechanical service
necessary for proper operation of the sewing machine except for normal maintenance Warranty service is available by
returning the sewing machine to the nearest Sears Service Center in the United State&
IF THIS MACHINE IS USED FOR COMMERCIAL OR RENTAL PURPOSES, THE ABOVE WARRANTY
COVERAGES APPLY FOR ONLY 90 DAYS FROM THE DATE OF PURCHASE
This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights which vary from state to state.
............................ &ears, Ro.eb.uck and Co,, DL8t7.WA, Hoffmao .Estates,.IL&0179 .............................
GARANTIA
GARANTIA COMPLETA POR 26 AltOS EN LA CABEZA DE I,A MAQUINA DE COSER
Durante 25 aSos desde la fecha de la compra, Sears ofrece, libre de costo, reparar los defectas en material a de manufactura que
puedan presentarse en los compcnentes mecAnicos de la cabeza de la m&quina de cose_
GARANTIA COMPLETA POR 2 Argos EN EQtJIPO ELECTRICO DE LA MAQUINA DE COSER
Durante 2 ares desde la fecha de la compra, Sears ofrece, libre de costo, reparar los defectos en material o de manufactura que
puedan presentarse en el equipo el_ctrico de la m_quina de coser, incluyendo componentes el_ctricos, motor, conexiones el_ctricas,
interruptor y control de velocidad
GARANTIA COMPLETA POR 90 DIAS SOBRE TODAS LAS PARTES Y AJUSTES MECANICOS
Durante 90 dias desde la fecha de la compra, Sears ofrece, libre de costo, reemplazar cualquiera parte y proveer el servicia mecanico
necesario para la apropiada operaci6n de la mdquina de coser, excepto para mantenimiento normal El servicio de garantia se puede
obtener enviando la m&quina de coser al centro/departamento de Servicios Sears mas cercano en los Estados Unidos
SI ESTA MAQUINA DE COSER SE UTILIZA PARA PROPOSITOS COMERCIALES O DE ALQUILER, LA COBERTURA DE
GARANTIA CITADA MAS ARRIBA ES VALIDAUNICAMENTE DURANTE 90 DIAS A PARTIRDE LA FECHA DE COMPRA
Esta garanti_ le da a usted derechos legales especificos, pero usted puede tenet tambiSn otros derechos los cuales varian de estado
a estado,
Sears, Roebuck and Co., D/817 WA, Hoffman Estates, IL 60179
GARANTIE
GARANTIETOTALE DE 25 ANS SUR LE MI_CANISMEDE LA MACHINE
Pendant 25 ans, & partir de la date d'achat, Sears r_parera gratuitement tout d_faut de mat_riau ou de fabrication qui apparaftra dans
le m_canisme de votre machine_
GARANTIETOTALE DE DEUX ANS SUR L'EQUlPEMENT €:LECTRIQUE
Pendant deux ans, & partir de la date d'achat, Sears r@arera gratuitement tout d_faut de materiau ou de fabrication qui appara'ftra
dans le moteur, le ill, I'interrupteur ou la commande de vitesse de marche, dans les circuits electriques ou _lectroniques
GARANTIETOTALE DE 90 JOURS SURTOUTES LES PIf=CES ET LA MISE AU POINT DU M_CANISME
Pendant 90 jours, & partir de la date d'achat, Sears effectuera gratuitement tout remplacement de piece et r_glage n_cessaires
au bon fonctionnement de la machine; I'entretien ordinaire 6tant &la charge de I'utilisateur Pour beneficier des avantages qu'offre la
garantie ci-dessus, adressez-vous a votre magasin habituel ou au service apres-vente Sears, Partout aux €:tats-Unis
Sl CETTE MACHINE _. COUDRE SERT .,&.DES FINS COMMERCIALES OU DE LOCATION, LA GARANTIE CI-DESSUS SE
LIMITE ._.90 JOURS A COMPTER DE LA DATE D'ACHAT.
Cette garantie vous donne des droits I_gaux precis, et _ventuellement d'autres droits, ceux-ci pouvant varier d'une _tat & une autre
Sears, Roebuck and Co., D/817 Wa, Hoffman Estates, IL 60179
IV
Machine Specifications
Item
Sewing speed (Maximum):
Stitch length:
Stitch width:
Stitch package (Stitch functions):
(Built-in stitchs):
Buttonhole:
Machine dimensions:
Weight (Net):
Specification
Over 730 rpm
4 mm (Maximum)
5 mm (Maximum)
30
12
4 step built-in buttonhole
W 15.4" (390 mm) x 6.1" (D 155 ram) x 11 4" (H 290 ram)
13,5 Ibs (62kg)
Especificaciones de la mdquina
Artfculo
Velocidad de costura (M&xima):
Longitud de puntada:
Ancho de puntada:
NtJmero de puntadas (Funoionamiento de puntadas):
(Integradas):
Ojales:
Dimensiones de la m&quina:
Peso:
Especificaci6n
MRs de 730 rp m
4 mm (M&xima)
5 mm (M&xima)
3o
12
Funci6n de ojal incorporado de 4 pasos
390 mm (15 4") de ancho x 155 mm (6 1") de profundidad x
290 mm (114") de altura
62kg (13,5 Ibs)
Caractdristiques de la machine
Description
Vitesse de couture (Maximum):
Longueur du point:
Largeur du point:
Ensemble de points (points de couture):
(points int_grSs):
Boutonniere:
Dimensions de la machine:
Poids de la machine:
Caractdristiques
730 points-minute en outre
4 mm (Maximum)
5 mm (Maximum)
3O
12
Boutonniere int_gr_e en 4 _tapes
Largeur: 390 mm (154") x Profondeur: 155 mm (6 1") x
Hauteur: 290 mm (t 1.4" )
62kg (135 Ib)
V
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION I. NAMES OF PARTS
Cabinet and Tote bags ...........................................................2
Names of Parts ...............................................................................2
Available Accessories and Attachments ...........................4
SECTION I1.GETTING READYTO SEW
Connecting Machine to Power Supply ........................... 6
For Your Safety .........................................................................6
Operating Instructions ..................................................................6
Controlling Sewing Speed ..........................................................6
Setting Spool Pins .........................................................................8
Presser Foot Lifter............................................................... 8
Thread Cutter ....................................................................... 8
Accessory Box .........................................................................................8
Free-arm Sewing ............................................................................10
For free-arm sewing ..............................................................10
For flat-bed sewing .......................................................... 10
Changing Needle .........................................................................10
Changing Presser Foot .........................................................10
Presser Foot Types .....................................................................12
Zigzag foot ................................................................................12
Straight stitch foot ................................................................12
Sliding buttonhole foot ............................................................12
Zipper foot ................................................................... 12
Satin stitch foot ....................................................................................12
Selecting Needle and Fabric ......................................... 14
Bobbin Winding ..................................................... 18 - 22
Removing bobbin case .....................................................18
Bobbin winding ....................................................................18 - 20
Inserting bobbin ..........................................................................22
Threading the Machine .........................................................24
Threading the machine .....................................................24
Drawing up bobbin thread ......................................... 24
Adjust the Needle Thread Tension for
Straight Stitch ........................................................................26
Correct tension ............................................................... 26
Tension is too tight ...................................................... 26
Tension is too loose ...................................................................26
Adjust the Needle Thread Tension for Zigzag Stitch _**28
Correct tension .......................................................................28
Tension is too tight ........................................................... 28
Tension is too loose ...................................................... 28
Stitch Selector .................................................................... 30
Stitch Length Control ................................................... 30
Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance ..................................... 30
Reverse Stitch Control .......................................................30
SECTION III. STRAIGHT STITCH SEWING
Straight Stitch ................................................................... 32
Starting to sew .........................................................................32
Finishing sewing ............................................................ 32
SECTION III. STRAIGHT STITCH SEWING
(continued)
Use the Seam Guides ............................................................32
Turn a Square Corner ......................................................32
Topstitching .............................................................................34
Zipper Sewing ....................................................................34 - 36
Fabric preparation ............................................................34
Starting to sew ......................................................... 36
To Drop or Raise the Feed Dogs ................................ 38
Darning ...................................................................... 38
SECTION IV. ZIGZAG STITCHES
Basic Zigzag ................................................................ 40
Satin Stitch .................................................................. 40
Monogramming ..............................................................42
Applique ...........................................................................42
Bar Tacking .........................................................................44
Button Sewing ................................................................44
Overcasting Stitch ...............................................................46
SECTION V. UTILITY STITCHES AND
DECORATIVE STITCHES
Blind Hem Stitch ....................................................... 46
Lace Work ...........................................................................48
Multiple Zigzag Stitch ......................................................48
Shell Stitch ...........................................................................50
SECTION VI. STRETCH STITCHES
Straight Stretch .......................................................... 52
Rick*rack Stretch ........................................................ 52
Overcast Stretch Stitching .......................................... 54
Starting to sew ....................................................... 54
Feather Stitch .......................................................................54
Serging .......................................................................... 56
SECTION VII. BUTTONHOLE
Buttonhole ............................................................. 58 - 60
Starting to sew .................................................... 58 - 60
SECTION VIII, CARE OFYOUR MACHINE
Replacing the Light Bulb ............................................. 62
Cleaning the Feed Dogs ............................................. 62
Cleaning the Shuttle Race ........................................ 64
Cleaning the shuttle area ............................................64
Replacing shuttle assembly ........................................64
Oiling the Machine ....................................................... 66
Oil behind the face cover ......................................... 66
Oil the Shuttle area ......................................................66
Troubleshooting ............................................................. 68
VI
SECTION I. NAMES OF PARTS
Cabinet and Tote bags
A full line of sewing machine cabinets and Tote bags is
available through the RSOS catalog at your nearest Sears
retail store.
Names of Parts
O Stitch selector
_) Reverse stitch control
(_ Stitch pattern setting display
(_ Stitch length control
(_) Stitch length setting display
(_) Bobbin winder spindle
O Spool pins
(_) Bobbin winding tension disc
(_) Upper needle thread guide
@ Thread take-up lever
(_) Thread tension dial
@ Face cover
@ Thread cutter
_) Needle plate
(_) Extension table (Accessory box)
(_) Carrying handle
@ Handwheel
(_) Power switch
@) Machine socket
Q Nomenclature plate
Free-arm
Presser foot lifter
(@Thumb screw
@ Presser foot
(_ Needle clamp screw
@ Foot control
f
2
Available Accessories and Attachments
All parts listed may be ordered from any Sears store or
service center
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE
FOLLOWING INFORMATION:
1,PART NUMBER
2PART DESCRIPTION
3 MODEL NUMBER
4 NAME OF ITEM (SEWING MACHINE)
if the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order
will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts
Distribution Center for expedited handling.
For the repair or replacement parts you need delivered
directly to your home.
Call 6 am - 11 pm, CST, 7 days a week.
1 -800-366-PART (1-800-366-7278)
Ref No
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
Part No Description
532096007
647515006
"102869107
647018004
735802009
"993001100
"993011100
"993011400
°993011600
"993011800
801506008
611413002
731806001
611511001
737801015
611406002
611510000
647112009
*784805004
000009803
647808009
802424004
820832005
647803004
"741814003
"743815000
"214872011
*940200000
"941620000
200262101
*941850000
*940250000
"743813008
"200117100
"620404008
Shuttle hook
Bobbin case
10 x Bobbin
Bobbin winder rubber ring
Assorted needle set
5 x No !1 stretch fabric needle (BLUE)
5 x No 11 needle (ORANGE)
5 x No 14 needle (RED)
5 x No 16 needle (PURPLE)
5 x No 18 needle (GREEN)
Needle clamp with screw
Sliding buttonhole foot
Straight stitch foot
Zigzag foot
Satin stitch foot
Zipper foot
Foot holder
Thumb screw
Needle threader
Light butb
Seam rippedButtonhole opener
Lint brush
Large screwdriver
Small screwdriver
Oil
Hemmer foot (2mm)
Walking foot
Pin-tuck fool
Ruffler
Needle threader
Binder foot
Ultraglide foot
Cording foot
Embroidery foot
Overlock foot
"These items are not furnished with the machine, but may be
ordered per instructions above.
1 2 *3
5 *6 7
9
%
13
17
"21
1
*25
4
8
%
10 11 12
14 "15
18 19
/9
"22 "23
16
0
20
/
*24
26 *27 *28
*29 *30 "31
4
SECTION II. GETTING READY TO SEW
Connecting Machine to Power Supply
O Power supply plug (_) Power switch
(_) Outlet (_) Machine socket
(_) Machine plug (_) Light bulb
Before connecting the power cord, make sure the voltage
and frequency shown on the machine conform to your
electrical power
1, "l]Jrn off the power switch _)
2 Insert the machine plug (_ intothe machine socket (_,
3, Insert the power supply plugO into the outlet (_),
4 Turn the power switch (_)to turn on the power and sewing
light (_)
For Your Safety
* While in operation, always keep your eyes on the sewing
area Do not touch any moving parts such as the thread
take-up lever, handwheel or needle
* Always turn off the power switch and unplug from the
power supply:
- When leaving the machine unattended.
When attaching or removing any parts
- When cleaning the machine.
* Do not place anything on the foot control, when not sewing
Operating Instructions:
"For appliances with a polarized plug (one blade
wider than the other)_To reduce the risk of electric shock,
this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way
If itdoes not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug If itstill
does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the
power outlet Do not modify the plug in any way!'
"Foot Controller Model YC-482J or TJC-150 is used with
Sewing Machine Models 385 15512XXX/
XXX - represents numbers 000 through 999
®
J
Controlling Sewing Speed
Sewing speed can be varied by the foot control.
The harder you press on the foot control, the faster the
machine runs.
,t
Setting Spool Pins
0 Spool pin
The spool pins are used for holding the spools of
thread when feeding thread to the machine.
To use, pull up the spool pins. Push down for storage,
Presser Foot Lifter
(_) Presser foot lifter
_) Normal up position
(_ Highest position
The presser foot lifter raises and lowers your presser foot.
You can raise it about 1/4" (0.6 cm) higher than the
normal up position for easy removal of the presser foot
or to help you place heavy fabric under the foot
<\
Thread Cutter
_') Thread cutter
You do not need a pair of scissors to cut threads after sewing.
Just use the built-in thread cutter.
F
J
Accessory Box
Open the cover of the accessory box toward you. Sewing
accessories are conveniently located in the box.
Free-arm Sewing
oFor free-arm sewing:
1_Grip the extension table with your index finger and thumb
2. Pull gently to the left The extension table will snap out
For flat-bed sewing:
1. Insert the tab and the pin intotheir catche&
2. With your thumb and index finger, gently snap in,
Changing Needle
(D Needle clamp screw
(_) Needle clamp
[] Turn off the power switch
Raise the needle to its highest position by turning the
handwheel counterclockwise, toward you, and lower the
presser fool
Loosen the needle clamp screw (D by turning it
counterclockwise
Remove the needle from the clamp(_)
[] Insert a new needle intothe needle clamp (_) with the flat
side to the rear,
When inserting the needle into the clamp, push it up as
far as it goes Tighten the clamp screw 0 firmly by turning
it clockwise
[] Tocheck for a good needle, placetheflat sideoftheneedle
onto something flat (needle plate, glass,etc.) The gap
between the needle and the flat surface should be consis
tent Never use a bent or bluntneedle.
A damaged needle can cause permanent snags
or runs in knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics
[]
[]
f
[]
I
I
Changing Presser Foot
($) Lever
(_) Groove
(_) Pin
] To remove:
Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the needle to its
highest position. Press the leverOon the back of the foot
holder, The presser foot will drop off
[] To attache:
Place the presser foot so the pin (_)on the foot lines just
under the groove(_) of the foot holder. Lower the foot
holder to lock the foot in place
[]
[]
10
Presser Foot Types
Zigzag foot
Use this foot for both straight and zigzag stitching_
For: Straight stitich (page 32)
Topstitching (page 34)
Basic z)gzag (page 40)
Bar tacking (page 44)
Button sewing (page 44)
Overcasting stitch (page 46)
Blind hem stitch (page 46)
Lace work (page 48)
Multiple zigzag stitch (page 48)
Straight stretch (page 52)
Rick-rack stretch (page 52)
Overcast stretch stitching (page 54)
Feather stitch (page 54)
Serging (page 56)
° Straight stitch foot
Use this foot exclusively for straight stitching with
center needle position
For: Straight stitch (page 32)
Topstitching (page 34)
Straight stretch (page 52)
o Sliding buttonho|e foot
Use this foot for manual buttonhole making_ It is
marked to help you measure buttonhole accurately
For: Buttonhole sewing (page 58-60)
o Zipper foot
This foot can be set to sew on each side of the
zipper. The edges of the foot guide the zipper and
keep the seam straight,
For: Zipper sewing (page 34-36)
Satin stitch foot
Use this foot for satin stitch and outlining applique
For: Satin stitch (page 40)
Monogramming (page 42)
Applique (page 42)
Shell stitch (page 50)
12
%
f
Selecting Needle and Fabric
For general sewing use needle size 11 or 14. A fine thread and needle should be used for sewing lightweight
fabrics so the fabric will not be marred Heavy fabrics require a needle large enough to pierce the fabric
without fraying the needle thread.
In the needle set there is one each of size 11, 14, 16, 18 and a blue needle. Use the blue needle to eliminate
skipped stitches when sewing knits and synthetic fabrics.
Special needles should be used on certain fabrics. A denim needle with a sharp tip effectively pierces dense
fabrics such as denim and canvas. For topstitching, a special topstitching needle with a larger eye accommodates
heavier weight thread. Leather needles punch small holes in leather and suede allowing the thread to follow through
the hole.
Check your needles frequently for rough or blunt tips Snags and runs in knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics are
permanent and are often caused by damaged needles
Always purchase a good quality thread. It should be strong, smooth and consistent in thickness
f
WEIGHT FABRIC TYPE OF NEEDLE NEEDLE SIZE
Chiffon, Georgette, Fine Lace, Organdy, Organdy Universal 9 (65)
Very Light Net, Tulle Ball Point 9 (65)
Batiste, Voile, Lawn, Pure Silk, Crepe de Chine, Orange 11 (75)
Sheer Crepe, Chambray, Handkerchief Linen, Blue 11 (75)
Gingham, Challis, Percale, Wool Crepe, Peau de 12 (85)
Light Sole, Taffeta, Satin, Silk Surah, Satin-backed
Crepe, Qiana
Single Knits, Jersey, Swimwear, Tricot Blue 11 (75)
Ball Point 11 (75)
Leather, Suede Wedge Point Leather 11 (75)
Flannel, Velour, Velvet, Muslin, Velveteen, Poplin,
Corduroy, Broadcloth, Linen, Chintz, Gabardine, Red 14 (90)
Medium Felt, Terry, Burlap, Quilted Fabrics
Double Knits, (synthetic and natural) Stretch
Velour, Ball Point 14 (90)
Stretch Terry,
Sweater Knits
Leather, Vinyl, Suede Wedge Point Leather 14 (90)
Denim, Sailcloth, Ticking Denim 16 (100)
Double Faced Wool, Heavy Coating, Fake Fur, Purple 16 (100)
Heavy Drapery Fabrics
Leather, Suede Wedge Point Leather t6 (100)
Canvas, Duck, Upholstery Fabrics Green 18 (110)
Topstitching for Special Finish Topstitching 11 (75)
14 (90)
14
Bobbin Winding
oRemoving bobbin case
Remove the extension table from the machine by pulling itto
the left_ Open the shuttle coverOby pulling down the
embossed part on the left of the cover,
Raise the needle to its highest position by rotating the
handwheel toward you
(_) Shuttle cover
(_) Bobbin case
To remove the bobbin case(_)from the shuttle, pull open the
latch of the bobbin case, Pull the bobbin case straight out of
the shuttle,
, Bobbin winding
[] Release the clutch by pulling out the handwheel This
will stop the needle from moving while you wind the
bobbin
f
[]
k.
[] Draw thread from spool
[] Guide the thread around the thread guide
[] Thread through the hole in the bobbin from the inside to
the outside
[] Put the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle
f
[]
[]
[]
18
Bobbin winding (continued)
[]
[]
Push the bobbin to the right,
With free end of the thread held in your hand,
depress the foot control, Stop the machine
when it has made a few turns, and cut the thread
close to the hole in the bobbin,
[]
Depress the foot control again When the bobbin
is fully wound, it stops automatically. Return the
bobbin winder to its original position by moving
the spindle to the left and cut the thread_
[] Push the handwheel to the left to engage clutch_
*The machine does not function until the clutch is
engaged
NOTE: Position of the bobbin winder stopper is
adjustable for the required amount of thread
on bobbin (example 1/2 full or full etc ),
Use a screwdriver and loosen the screw one
turn or less to adjust the position of the bobbin
winder stopper
Do not take out the screw all the way
f
[]
f
[]
f
[]
7
2O
oInserting bobbin
[] Place a bobbin in the bobbin case making sure
thread feeds clockwise coming from the bobbin,
[] Draw the thread through the slot of case
[] Continue to draw the thread under the tension spring and
through the opening
Pull out about 4" (10 cm) of thread
J
[] Holding latch open, position the bobbin case into the
shuttle and release latch
[] Case should lock into place when latch is released
22
Threading the Machine
oThreading the machine
*Raise the thread take-up lever to its highest position by
turning the handwheel counterclockwise, toward you_
*Raise the presser foot lifter
*Place a spool on the spool pin, with thread coming off as
shown.
[] Draw the end of thread around the upper thread guide
[] While holding the thread near the spool, draw the end of
the thread down around the check spring holder,
[] Firmly draw the thread up from right to left over
the take-up lever and down into the take-up lever
eye.
[] Slide the thread behind the needle bar thread guide on the
left
[] Thread the needle from front to back or use a needle
threader.
We recommend using the convenient needlethreader
(#200262101), included with your machine.
Drawing up bobbin thread
[] Raise the presser foot. Hold the needle thread lightly with
your left hand and rotate the handwheel counterclockwise,
toward you, for one complete turn.
[] Bring the bobbin thread up by pulling the needle thread up.
[] Pull both threads under and to the back of the presser foot,
leaving 4 to 6 inches (10 cm to 15 cm) of thread clear.
[]
[]
[]
24
Adjust the Needle Thread Tension for
Straight Stitch
° Correct tension
(_) Needle thread (Top thread)
(_) Bobbin thread (Bottom thread)
® To loosen
_) To tighten
The ideal straight stitch has threads locked between two layers
of fabric, as illustrated (magnified to show detail),
If you look at the needle thread and bobbin thread of a seam,
notice that there are no gaps. Each stitch is smooth and even,
When adjusting needle thread tension, the higher the number,
the tighter the top thread tension.,
Results depend on;
stiffness and thickness of the fabric
number of fabric layers
type of stitch
®
®
..... .J
Tension is too tight
(i_ Needle thread (Top thread)
(_) Bobbin thread (Bottom thread)
® To loosen
(_) Right side (Top side) of fabric
0 Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric
The bobbin thread shows through on the right side of the fabric
and it feels bumpy. Turn the dial to a lower tension setting
number to loosen the needle thread tension,
®
Tension is too loose
Q-')Needle thread (Top thread)
(_) Bobbin thread (Bottom thread)
® To tighten
(_ Right side (Top side) of fabric
('_ Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric
The needle thread shows through on the wrong side
of the fabric and it feels bumpy. Turn the dial to a higher
tension setting number to tighten the needle thread tension°
26
Adjust the Needle Thread Tension for Zigzag
Stitch
For an ideal zigzag stitch, the bobbin thread does not show
on the right side (top side) of the fabric and needle thread shows
slightly on the wrong side (bottom side)_
See the illustrations for correct appearance.
To match this appearance, adjust the needle tension_
Correct tension
(_ Right side (Top side) of fabric
(_) Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric
Minimize amount of needle thread visible on the wrong
side (bottom side) of fabric without causing excessive puckering
or causing bobbin thread to show on the right side (top side) of
fabric. Results vary with fabric, thread and sewing condition.
Tension is too tight
0 Right side (Top side) of fabric
® Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric
Corner of each zigzag pulls together on the right
side of fabric.
oTension is too loose
Right side (Top side) of fabric
® Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric
The needle thread loops through wrong side (bottom side)
of fabric and is pulled almost together.
0
®
®
0
®
J
J
28
Stitch Selector
(_ Setting mark
(_) Stitch selector
The stitch selector not only determines the stitch you select,
but also regulates the stitch width of zigzag stitch_
NOTE :To avoid needle or fabric damage, make sure the
needle is up and out of the fabric while selecting a
stitch..
Stitch patterns are color-coded to recommended setting zone
at the stitch length control+
ZONES:
Red: Straight, zigzag and utility stitches
Green: Geometric decorative stitches
Blue: Built-in buttonhole
Gold: Stretch stitches
Stitch Length Control
Setting mark
(_) Stitch length control
The higher the number of stitch length control, the longer the
stitch+" 0" means "no feed". The stitch length control also
has a stretch stitch setting+ To select a stretch stitch, set the
control at" _' STRETCH".
NOTE: When you select a stitch (Red or Green) or
buttonhole (Blue), make sure that the stitch
length control is NOT set at" V STRETCH"+
Study the red, green, gold and blue zones on the
stitch length control.. These are recommended zones
of stitch length and are color-coded to the stitches..
Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance
In stretch stitch sewing, the stitch length control should be in
the detent position between "S" and "L" ( 'IV position) for
most materials Depending upon the type of fabric used, you
may need to adjust this control to match forward stitches of
stretch sewing with reverse motion stitches.. To shorten
stretch stitches, turn the control slightly toward "S"
To lengthen, turn toward" L"
Reverse Stitch Control
BH I _ 3 4 s s 7 ;,
fit il
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f
f
LEN'GTH
L,T ,S
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Sewing will be made in reverse while the reverse stitch
control is pressed.
3O
SECTION II1. STRAIGHT STITCH SEWING
Straight Stitch
(_) Stitch selector: 1 or 2
(_) Stitch length: Red zone
Needle thread tension: 2 to 6
(_ Presser foot: Straight stitch foot
(g) Presser foot: Zigzag foot
NOTE: When using the straight stitch foot, make sure to set
the stitch selector at 1 (Center needle position)
Otherwise the needle may strike the sewing foot and
possibly break_
I
I
I
I
0 ®
® ®
% oro
OU
. Starting to sew
Raise the presser foot and position the fabric next to a seam
guide line on the needle plate (5/8" is most common)
Lower the needle to the point where you want to start. Lower the
presser foot and pull the threads toward the back. Depress the
foot control, Gently guide the fabric along a seam guide line
letting the fabric feed naturally
Finishing sewing
To fasten the ends of a seam, press the reverse stitch control
and sew several reverse stitches, Raise the presser foot,
Remove the fabric, draw the threads to the back and cut them
with the thread cutter The threads are cut in a proper length for
the next seam
Use the Seam Guides
(_) Cornering guide
(_) Guide lines in inches
(_) Guide lines in millimeters
The seam guides on the needle plate are there to help you
measure seam width The lines are 1/8" (0.3 cm) apart, with the
3/8", 4/8", 5/8", and 6/8" lines engraved. The lines in millimeters
are 5 mm apart, with the 10 mm, 15 mm and 20 mm lines
engraved_
Turn a Square Corner
O Cornering guide
To turn a square corner 5/8" (1_6cm) from the fabric edge
1 Stop stitching and lower the needle by turning handwheel
counterclockwise, toward you, when the fabric edge facing
you lines up with the edge of the needle plate as shown.
2. Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric to line up the edge
With the 5/8" (1.6 cm) seam guide.
3. Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in the new
direction.
32
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Kenmore 385.15512 User manual

Category
Sewing machines
Type
User manual

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