Kenmore 385.15512 User manual

®

SEWING MACHINE

Owner's Manual

MAQUINA DE COSER

Manual de Instrucciones

MACHINE A COUDRE

Manuel d'instructions

Model, Modelo, ModUle 385.15512000

744-800-072 Sears, Roebuck and Co,, Hoffman Estates, IL 60179 U.S.A, _.sears.com

mMPORTANT SAFETY iNSTRUCTiONS

CAUTION

Your sewing machine is designed and constructed only for HOUSEHOLD USer

Before using this sewing machine, read this manual and follow all Safety Rules and Operating Instructions.

DANGER- Toreducetheriskofelectricshock:

1 This sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this sewing machine from the

electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

2. Always unplug before replacing a sewing machine bulb Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts

3. Do not reach for a sewing machine that has fallen into water. Unplug immediately.

4. Do not place or store this sewing machine where itcan fall or be pulled into a tub or sink Do not place or drop it into water

or other liquid.

WARNING-To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:

1. Do not allow this sewing machine to be used as a toy Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is used by

or near children

2_ Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this owner's manual.

Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this owner's manual

3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped

or damaged, or dropped intowater

Return this sewing machine to the nearest Sears store or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical

adjustment.

4 Never operate this sewing machine with any air opening blocked. Keep ventilation openings of this sewing machine and

foot controller free from accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.

5 Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

6. Do not use outdoors.

7 Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered°

8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off ("O") position, then remove plug from outlet.

9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord,

10 Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle

11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break

12. Do not use bent needles.

13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching It may deflect the needle causing it to break.

14. Switch this sewing machine off (" 0") when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as threading the needle,

changing the needle, threading the bobbin or changing the presser foot, and the like.

15. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any

other adjustments mentioned in this owner's manual

SAVE TH ESE INSTRUCTIONS

When using your sewing machine for the first few times, place a waste fabric under the presser foot and run

J

the machine without thread for a few minutes.. Wipe away any oil which may appear.

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WARRANTY

FULL 25 YEAR WARRANTY ON DEFECT IN MATERIAL OR WORKMANSHIP

For 25 years from the date of purchase Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which

appear n the "nternalmechanical part of the sewing machine

FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF SEWING MACHINE

For two years from the date of purchase Sears will free of charge, repair defects n matera or workmansh p wh ch

appear in the electrical and electronic equipment of the sewing machine including motor, wiring, electronic components,

switch and speed control

FULL 90-DAY WARRANTY ON ALL PARTS AND MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS

For 90 days from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge replace any parts and provide mechanical service

necessary for proper operation of the sewing machine except for normal maintenance Warranty service is available by

returning the sewing machine to the nearest Sears Service Center in the United State&

IF THIS MACHINE IS USED FOR COMMERCIAL OR RENTAL PURPOSES, THE ABOVE WARRANTY

COVERAGES APPLY FOR ONLY 90 DAYS FROM THE DATE OF PURCHASE

This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights which vary from state to state.

............................ &ears, Ro.eb.uck and Co,, DL8t7.WA, Hoffmao .Estates,.IL&0179 .............................

GARANTIA

GARANTIA COMPLETA POR 26 AltOS EN LA CABEZA DE I,A MAQUINA DE COSER

Durante 25 aSos desde la fecha de la compra, Sears ofrece, libre de costo, reparar los defectas en material a de manufactura que

puedan presentarse en los compcnentes mecAnicos de la cabeza de la m&quina de cose_

GARANTIA COMPLETA POR 2 Argos EN EQtJIPO ELECTRICO DE LA MAQUINA DE COSER

Durante 2 ares desde la fecha de la compra, Sears ofrece, libre de costo, reparar los defectos en material o de manufactura que

puedan presentarse en el equipo el_ctrico de la m_quina de coser, incluyendo componentes el_ctricos, motor, conexiones el_ctricas,

interruptor y control de velocidad

GARANTIA COMPLETA POR 90 DIAS SOBRE TODAS LAS PARTES Y AJUSTES MECANICOS

Durante 90 dias desde la fecha de la compra, Sears ofrece, libre de costo, reemplazar cualquiera parte y proveer el servicia mecanico

necesario para la apropiada operaci6n de la mdquina de coser, excepto para mantenimiento normal El servicio de garantia se puede

obtener enviando la m&quina de coser al centro/departamento de Servicios Sears mas cercano en los Estados Unidos

SI ESTA MAQUINA DE COSER SE UTILIZA PARA PROPOSITOS COMERCIALES O DE ALQUILER, LA COBERTURA DE

GARANTIA CITADA MAS ARRIBA ES VALIDAUNICAMENTE DURANTE 90 DIAS A PARTIRDE LA FECHA DE COMPRA

Esta garanti_ le da a usted derechos legales especificos, pero usted puede tenet tambiSn otros derechos los cuales varian de estado

a estado,

Sears, Roebuck and Co., D/817 WA, Hoffman Estates, IL 60179

GARANTIE

GARANTIETOTALE DE 25 ANS SUR LE MI_CANISMEDE LA MACHINE

Pendant 25 ans, & partir de la date d'achat, Sears r_parera gratuitement tout d_faut de mat_riau ou de fabrication qui apparaftra dans

le m_canisme de votre machine_

GARANTIETOTALE DE DEUX ANS SUR L'EQUlPEMENT €:LECTRIQUE

Pendant deux ans, & partir de la date d'achat, Sears r@arera gratuitement tout d_faut de materiau ou de fabrication qui appara'ftra

dans le moteur, le ill, I'interrupteur ou la commande de vitesse de marche, dans les circuits electriques ou _lectroniques

GARANTIETOTALE DE 90 JOURS SURTOUTES LES PIf=CES ET LA MISE AU POINT DU M_CANISME

Pendant 90 jours, & partir de la date d'achat, Sears effectuera gratuitement tout remplacement de piece et r_glage n_cessaires

au bon fonctionnement de la machine; I'entretien ordinaire 6tant &la charge de I'utilisateur Pour beneficier des avantages qu'offre la

garantie ci-dessus, adressez-vous a votre magasin habituel ou au service apres-vente Sears, Partout aux €:tats-Unis

Sl CETTE MACHINE _. COUDRE SERT .,&.DES FINS COMMERCIALES OU DE LOCATION, LA GARANTIE CI-DESSUS SE

LIMITE ._.90 JOURS A COMPTER DE LA DATE D'ACHAT.

Cette garantie vous donne des droits I_gaux precis, et _ventuellement d'autres droits, ceux-ci pouvant varier d'une _tat & une autre

Sears, Roebuck and Co., D/817 Wa, Hoffman Estates, IL 60179

IV

Machine Specifications

Item

Sewing speed (Maximum):

Stitch length:

Stitch width:

Stitch package (Stitch functions):

(Built-in stitchs):

Buttonhole:

Machine dimensions:

Weight (Net):

Specification

Over 730 rpm

4 mm (Maximum)

5 mm (Maximum)

30

12

4 step built-in buttonhole

W 15.4" (390 mm) x 6.1" (D 155 ram) x 11 4" (H 290 ram)

13,5 Ibs (62kg)

Especificaciones de la mdquina

Artfculo

Velocidad de costura (M&xima):

Longitud de puntada:

Ancho de puntada:

NtJmero de puntadas (Funoionamiento de puntadas):

(Integradas):

Ojales:

Dimensiones de la m&quina:

Peso:

Especificaci6n

MRs de 730 rp m

4 mm (M&xima)

5 mm (M&xima)

3o

12

Funci6n de ojal incorporado de 4 pasos

390 mm (15 4") de ancho x 155 mm (6 1") de profundidad x

290 mm (114") de altura

62kg (13,5 Ibs)

Caractdristiques de la machine

Description

Vitesse de couture (Maximum):

Longueur du point:

Largeur du point:

Ensemble de points (points de couture):

(points int_grSs):

Boutonniere:

Dimensions de la machine:

Poids de la machine:

Caractdristiques

730 points-minute en outre

4 mm (Maximum)

5 mm (Maximum)

3O

12

Boutonniere int_gr_e en 4 _tapes

Largeur: 390 mm (154") x Profondeur: 155 mm (6 1") x

Hauteur: 290 mm (t 1.4" )

62kg (135 Ib)

V

TABLE OF CONTENTS

SECTION I. NAMES OF PARTS

Cabinet and Tote bags ...........................................................2

Names of Parts ...............................................................................2

Available Accessories and Attachments ...........................4

SECTION I1.GETTING READYTO SEW

Connecting Machine to Power Supply ........................... 6

For Your Safety .........................................................................6

Operating Instructions ..................................................................6

Controlling Sewing Speed ..........................................................6

Setting Spool Pins .........................................................................8

Presser Foot Lifter............................................................... 8

Thread Cutter ....................................................................... 8

Accessory Box .........................................................................................8

Free-arm Sewing ............................................................................10

• For free-arm sewing ..............................................................10

• For flat-bed sewing .......................................................... 10

Changing Needle .........................................................................10

Changing Presser Foot .........................................................10

Presser Foot Types .....................................................................12

• Zigzag foot ................................................................................12

• Straight stitch foot ................................................................12

• Sliding buttonhole foot ............................................................12

• Zipper foot ................................................................... 12

• Satin stitch foot ....................................................................................12

Selecting Needle and Fabric ......................................... 14

Bobbin Winding ..................................................... 18 - 22

• Removing bobbin case .....................................................18

• Bobbin winding ....................................................................18 - 20

• Inserting bobbin ..........................................................................22

Threading the Machine .........................................................24

• Threading the machine .....................................................24

• Drawing up bobbin thread ......................................... 24

Adjust the Needle Thread Tension for

Straight Stitch ........................................................................26

• Correct tension ............................................................... 26

• Tension is too tight ...................................................... 26

• Tension is too loose ...................................................................26

Adjust the Needle Thread Tension for Zigzag Stitch _**28

• Correct tension .......................................................................28

• Tension is too tight ........................................................... 28

• Tension is too loose ...................................................... 28

Stitch Selector .................................................................... 30

Stitch Length Control ................................................... 30

Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance ..................................... 30

Reverse Stitch Control .......................................................30

SECTION III. STRAIGHT STITCH SEWING

Straight Stitch ................................................................... 32

• Starting to sew .........................................................................32

• Finishing sewing ............................................................ 32

SECTION III. STRAIGHT STITCH SEWING

(continued)

Use the Seam Guides ............................................................32

Turn a Square Corner ......................................................32

Topstitching .............................................................................34

Zipper Sewing ....................................................................34 - 36

• Fabric preparation ............................................................34

• Starting to sew ......................................................... 36

To Drop or Raise the Feed Dogs ................................ 38

Darning ...................................................................... 38

SECTION IV. ZIGZAG STITCHES

Basic Zigzag ................................................................ 40

Satin Stitch .................................................................. 40

Monogramming ..............................................................42

Applique ...........................................................................42

Bar Tacking .........................................................................44

Button Sewing ................................................................44

Overcasting Stitch ...............................................................46

SECTION V. UTILITY STITCHES AND

DECORATIVE STITCHES

Blind Hem Stitch ....................................................... 46

Lace Work ...........................................................................48

Multiple Zigzag Stitch ......................................................48

Shell Stitch ...........................................................................50

SECTION VI. STRETCH STITCHES

Straight Stretch .......................................................... 52

Rick*rack Stretch ........................................................ 52

Overcast Stretch Stitching .......................................... 54

• Starting to sew ....................................................... 54

Feather Stitch .......................................................................54

Serging .......................................................................... 56

SECTION VII. BUTTONHOLE

Buttonhole ............................................................. 58 - 60

• Starting to sew .................................................... 58 - 60

SECTION VIII, CARE OFYOUR MACHINE

Replacing the Light Bulb ............................................. 62

Cleaning the Feed Dogs ............................................. 62

Cleaning the Shuttle Race ........................................ 64

• Cleaning the shuttle area ............................................64

• Replacing shuttle assembly ........................................64

Oiling the Machine ....................................................... 66

• Oil behind the face cover ......................................... 66

• Oil the Shuttle area ......................................................66

Troubleshooting ............................................................. 68

VI

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SECTION I. NAMES OF PARTS

Cabinet and Tote bags

A full line of sewing machine cabinets and Tote bags is

available through the RSOS catalog at your nearest Sears

retail store.

Names of Parts

O Stitch selector

_) Reverse stitch control

(_ Stitch pattern setting display

(_ Stitch length control

(_) Stitch length setting display

(_) Bobbin winder spindle

O Spool pins

(_) Bobbin winding tension disc

(_) Upper needle thread guide

@ Thread take-up lever

(_) Thread tension dial

@ Face cover

@ Thread cutter

_) Needle plate

(_) Extension table (Accessory box)

(_) Carrying handle

@ Handwheel

(_) Power switch

@) Machine socket

Q Nomenclature plate

Free-arm

Presser foot lifter

(@Thumb screw

@ Presser foot

(_ Needle clamp screw

@ Foot control

f

2

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Available Accessories and Attachments

All parts listed may be ordered from any Sears store or

service center

WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE

FOLLOWING INFORMATION:

1,PART NUMBER

2PART DESCRIPTION

3 MODEL NUMBER

4 NAME OF ITEM (SEWING MACHINE)

if the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order

will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts

Distribution Center for expedited handling.

For the repair or replacement parts you need delivered

directly to your home.

Call 6 am - 11 pm, CST, 7 days a week.

1 -800-366-PART (1-800-366-7278)

Ref No

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

21

22

23

24

25

26

27

28

29

30

31

Part No Description

532096007

647515006

"102869107

647018004

735802009

"993001100

"993011100

"993011400

°993011600

"993011800

801506008

611413002

731806001

611511001

737801015

611406002

611510000

647112009

*784805004

000009803

647808009

802424004

820832005

647803004

"741814003

"743815000

"214872011

*940200000

"941620000

200262101

*941850000

*940250000

"743813008

"200117100

"620404008

Shuttle hook

Bobbin case

10 x Bobbin

Bobbin winder rubber ring

Assorted needle set

5 x No !1 stretch fabric needle (BLUE)

5 x No 11 needle (ORANGE)

5 x No 14 needle (RED)

5 x No 16 needle (PURPLE)

5 x No 18 needle (GREEN)

Needle clamp with screw

Sliding buttonhole foot

Straight stitch foot

Zigzag foot

Satin stitch foot

Zipper foot

Foot holder

Thumb screw

Needle threader

Light butb

Seam rippedButtonhole opener

Lint brush

Large screwdriver

Small screwdriver

Oil

Hemmer foot (2mm)

Walking foot

Pin-tuck fool

Ruffler

Needle threader

Binder foot

Ultraglide foot

Cording foot

Embroidery foot

Overlock foot

"These items are not furnished with the machine, but may be

ordered per instructions above.

1 2 *3

5 *6 7

9

%

13

17

"21

1

*25

4

8

%

10 11 12

14 "15

18 19

/9

"22 "23

16

0

20

/

*24

26 *27 *28

*29 *30 "31

4

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SECTION II. GETTING READY TO SEW

Connecting Machine to Power Supply

O Power supply plug (_) Power switch

(_) Outlet (_) Machine socket

(_) Machine plug (_) Light bulb

Before connecting the power cord, make sure the voltage

and frequency shown on the machine conform to your

electrical power

1, "l]Jrn off the power switch _)

2 Insert the machine plug (_ intothe machine socket (_,

3, Insert the power supply plugO into the outlet (_),

4 Turn the power switch (_)to turn on the power and sewing

light (_)

For Your Safety

* While in operation, always keep your eyes on the sewing

area Do not touch any moving parts such as the thread

take-up lever, handwheel or needle

* Always turn off the power switch and unplug from the

power supply:

- When leaving the machine unattended.

When attaching or removing any parts

- When cleaning the machine.

* Do not place anything on the foot control, when not sewing

Operating Instructions:

"For appliances with a polarized plug (one blade

wider than the other)_To reduce the risk of electric shock,

this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way

If itdoes not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug If itstill

does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the

power outlet Do not modify the plug in any way!'

"Foot Controller Model YC-482J or TJC-150 is used with

Sewing Machine Models 385 15512XXX/

XXX - represents numbers 000 through 999

®

J

Controlling Sewing Speed

Sewing speed can be varied by the foot control.

The harder you press on the foot control, the faster the

machine runs.

,t

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Setting Spool Pins

0 Spool pin

The spool pins are used for holding the spools of

thread when feeding thread to the machine.

To use, pull up the spool pins. Push down for storage,

Presser Foot Lifter

(_) Presser foot lifter

_) Normal up position

(_ Highest position

The presser foot lifter raises and lowers your presser foot.

You can raise it about 1/4" (0.6 cm) higher than the

normal up position for easy removal of the presser foot

or to help you place heavy fabric under the foot

<\

Thread Cutter

_') Thread cutter

You do not need a pair of scissors to cut threads after sewing.

Just use the built-in thread cutter.

F

J

Accessory Box

Open the cover of the accessory box toward you. Sewing

accessories are conveniently located in the box.

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Free-arm Sewing

oFor free-arm sewing:

1_Grip the extension table with your index finger and thumb

2. Pull gently to the left The extension table will snap out

• For flat-bed sewing:

1. Insert the tab and the pin intotheir catche&

2. With your thumb and index finger, gently snap in,

Changing Needle

(D Needle clamp screw

(_) Needle clamp

[] Turn off the power switch

Raise the needle to its highest position by turning the

handwheel counterclockwise, toward you, and lower the

presser fool

Loosen the needle clamp screw (D by turning it

counterclockwise

Remove the needle from the clamp(_)

[] Insert a new needle intothe needle clamp (_) with the flat

side to the rear,

When inserting the needle into the clamp, push it up as

far as it goes Tighten the clamp screw 0 firmly by turning

it clockwise

[] Tocheck for a good needle, placetheflat sideoftheneedle

onto something flat (needle plate, glass,etc.) The gap

between the needle and the flat surface should be consis

tent Never use a bent or bluntneedle.

A damaged needle can cause permanent snags

or runs in knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics

[]

f

[]

I

Changing Presser Foot

($) Lever

(_) Groove

(_) Pin

] To remove:

Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the needle to its

highest position. Press the leverOon the back of the foot

holder, The presser foot will drop off

[] To attache:

Place the presser foot so the pin (_)on the foot lines just

under the groove(_) of the foot holder. Lower the foot

holder to lock the foot in place

[]

10

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Presser Foot Types

• Zigzag foot

Use this foot for both straight and zigzag stitching_

For: Straight stitich (page 32)

Topstitching (page 34)

Basic z)gzag (page 40)

Bar tacking (page 44)

Button sewing (page 44)

Overcasting stitch (page 46)

Blind hem stitch (page 46)

Lace work (page 48)

Multiple zigzag stitch (page 48)

Straight stretch (page 52)

Rick-rack stretch (page 52)

Overcast stretch stitching (page 54)

Feather stitch (page 54)

Serging (page 56)

° Straight stitch foot

Use this foot exclusively for straight stitching with

center needle position

For: Straight stitch (page 32)

Topstitching (page 34)

Straight stretch (page 52)

o Sliding buttonho|e foot

Use this foot for manual buttonhole making_ It is

marked to help you measure • buttonhole accurately

For: Buttonhole sewing (page 58-60)

o Zipper foot

This foot can be set to sew on each side of the

zipper. The edges of the foot guide the zipper and

keep the seam straight,

For: Zipper sewing (page 34-36)

• Satin stitch foot

Use this foot for satin stitch and outlining applique

For: Satin stitch (page 40)

Monogramming (page 42)

Applique (page 42)

Shell stitch (page 50)

12

%

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Selecting Needle and Fabric

For general sewing use needle size 11 or 14. A fine thread and needle should be used for sewing lightweight

fabrics so the fabric will not be marred Heavy fabrics require a needle large enough to pierce the fabric

without fraying the needle thread.

In the needle set there is one each of size 11, 14, 16, 18 and a blue needle. Use the blue needle to eliminate

skipped stitches when sewing knits and synthetic fabrics.

Special needles should be used on certain fabrics. A denim needle with a sharp tip effectively pierces dense

fabrics such as denim and canvas. For topstitching, a special topstitching needle with a larger eye accommodates

heavier weight thread. Leather needles punch small holes in leather and suede allowing the thread to follow through

the hole.

Check your needles frequently for rough or blunt tips Snags and runs in knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics are

permanent and are often caused by damaged needles

Always purchase a good quality thread. It should be strong, smooth and consistent in thickness

f

WEIGHT FABRIC TYPE OF NEEDLE NEEDLE SIZE

Chiffon, Georgette, Fine Lace, Organdy, Organdy Universal 9 (65)

Very Light Net, Tulle Ball Point 9 (65)

Batiste, Voile, Lawn, Pure Silk, Crepe de Chine, Orange 11 (75)

Sheer Crepe, Chambray, Handkerchief Linen, Blue 11 (75)

Gingham, Challis, Percale, Wool Crepe, Peau de 12 (85)

Light Sole, Taffeta, Satin, Silk Surah, Satin-backed

Crepe, Qiana

Single Knits, Jersey, Swimwear, Tricot Blue 11 (75)

Ball Point 11 (75)

Leather, Suede Wedge Point Leather 11 (75)

Flannel, Velour, Velvet, Muslin, Velveteen, Poplin,

Corduroy, Broadcloth, Linen, Chintz, Gabardine, Red 14 (90)

Medium Felt, Terry, Burlap, Quilted Fabrics

Double Knits, (synthetic and natural) Stretch

Velour, Ball Point 14 (90)

Stretch Terry,

Sweater Knits

Leather, Vinyl, Suede Wedge Point Leather 14 (90)

Denim, Sailcloth, Ticking Denim 16 (100)

Double Faced Wool, Heavy Coating, Fake Fur, Purple 16 (100)

Heavy Drapery Fabrics

Leather, Suede Wedge Point Leather t6 (100)

Canvas, Duck, Upholstery Fabrics Green 18 (110)

Topstitching for Special Finish Topstitching 11 (75)

14 (90)

14

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Bobbin Winding

oRemoving bobbin case

Remove the extension table from the machine by pulling itto

the left_ Open the shuttle coverOby pulling down the

embossed part on the left of the cover,

Raise the needle to its highest position by rotating the

handwheel toward you

(_) Shuttle cover

(_) Bobbin case

To remove the bobbin case(_)from the shuttle, pull open the

latch of the bobbin case, Pull the bobbin case straight out of

the shuttle,

, Bobbin winding

[] Release the clutch by pulling out the handwheel This

will stop the needle from moving while you wind the

bobbin

f

[]

k.

[] Draw thread from spool

[] Guide the thread around the thread guide

[] Thread through the hole in the bobbin from the inside to

the outside

[] Put the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle

f

[]

18

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Bobbin winding (continued)

[]

Push the bobbin to the right,

With free end of the thread held in your hand,

depress the foot control, Stop the machine

when it has made a few turns, and cut the thread

close to the hole in the bobbin,

[]

Depress the foot control again When the bobbin

is fully wound, it stops automatically. Return the

bobbin winder to its original position by moving

the spindle to the left and cut the thread_

[] Push the handwheel to the left to engage clutch_

*The machine does not function until the clutch is

engaged

NOTE: Position of the bobbin winder stopper is

adjustable for the required amount of thread

on bobbin (example 1/2 full or full etc ),

Use a screwdriver and loosen the screw one

turn or less to adjust the position of the bobbin

winder stopper

Do not take out the screw all the way

f

[]

f

[]

f

[]

7

2O

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oInserting bobbin

[] Place a bobbin in the bobbin case making sure

thread feeds clockwise coming from the bobbin,

[] Draw the thread through the slot of case

[] Continue to draw the thread under the tension spring and

through the opening

Pull out about 4" (10 cm) of thread

J

[] Holding latch open, position the bobbin case into the

shuttle and release latch

[] Case should lock into place when latch is released

22

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Threading the Machine

oThreading the machine

*Raise the thread take-up lever to its highest position by

turning the handwheel counterclockwise, toward you_

*Raise the presser foot lifter

*Place a spool on the spool pin, with thread coming off as

shown.

[] Draw the end of thread around the upper thread guide

[] While holding the thread near the spool, draw the end of

the thread down around the check spring holder,

[] Firmly draw the thread up from right to left over

the take-up lever and down into the take-up lever

eye.

[] Slide the thread behind the needle bar thread guide on the

left

[] Thread the needle from front to back or use a needle

threader.

We recommend using the convenient needlethreader

(#200262101), included with your machine.

• Drawing up bobbin thread

[] Raise the presser foot. Hold the needle thread lightly with

your left hand and rotate the handwheel counterclockwise,

toward you, for one complete turn.

[] Bring the bobbin thread up by pulling the needle thread up.

[] Pull both threads under and to the back of the presser foot,

leaving 4 to 6 inches (10 cm to 15 cm) of thread clear.

[]

24

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Adjust the Needle Thread Tension for

Straight Stitch

° Correct tension

(_) Needle thread (Top thread)

(_) Bobbin thread (Bottom thread)

® To loosen

_) To tighten

The ideal straight stitch has threads locked between two layers

of fabric, as illustrated (magnified to show detail),

If you look at the needle thread and bobbin thread of a seam,

notice that there are no gaps. Each stitch is smooth and even,

When adjusting needle thread tension, the higher the number,

the tighter the top thread tension.,

Results depend on;

stiffness and thickness of the fabric

number of fabric layers

type of stitch

®

..... .J

• Tension is too tight

(i_ Needle thread (Top thread)

(_) Bobbin thread (Bottom thread)

® To loosen

(_) Right side (Top side) of fabric

0 Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric

The bobbin thread shows through on the right side of the fabric

and it feels bumpy. Turn the dial to a lower tension setting

number to loosen the needle thread tension,

®

• Tension is too loose

Q-')Needle thread (Top thread)

(_) Bobbin thread (Bottom thread)

® To tighten

(_ Right side (Top side) of fabric

('_ Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric

The needle thread shows through on the wrong side

of the fabric and it feels bumpy. Turn the dial to a higher

tension setting number to tighten the needle thread tension°

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Adjust the Needle Thread Tension for Zigzag

Stitch

For an ideal zigzag stitch, the bobbin thread does not show

on the right side (top side) of the fabric and needle thread shows

slightly on the wrong side (bottom side)_

See the illustrations for correct appearance.

To match this appearance, adjust the needle tension_

• Correct tension

(_ Right side (Top side) of fabric

(_) Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric

Minimize amount of needle thread visible on the wrong

side (bottom side) of fabric without causing excessive puckering

or causing bobbin thread to show on the right side (top side) of

fabric. Results vary with fabric, thread and sewing condition.

• Tension is too tight

0 Right side (Top side) of fabric

® Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric

Corner of each zigzag pulls together on the right

side of fabric.

oTension is too loose

Right side (Top side) of fabric

® Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric

The needle thread loops through wrong side (bottom side)

of fabric and is pulled almost together.

0

®

0

®

J

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Stitch Selector

(_ Setting mark

(_) Stitch selector

The stitch selector not only determines the stitch you select,

but also regulates the stitch width of zigzag stitch_

NOTE :To avoid needle or fabric damage, make sure the

needle is up and out of the fabric while selecting a

stitch..

Stitch patterns are color-coded to recommended setting zone

at the stitch length control+

ZONES:

Red: Straight, zigzag and utility stitches

Green: Geometric decorative stitches

Blue: Built-in buttonhole

Gold: Stretch stitches

Stitch Length Control

Setting mark

(_) Stitch length control

The higher the number of stitch length control, the longer the

stitch+" 0" means "no feed". The stitch length control also

has a stretch stitch setting+ To select a stretch stitch, set the

control at" _' STRETCH".

NOTE: When you select a stitch (Red or Green) or

buttonhole (Blue), make sure that the stitch

length control is NOT set at" V STRETCH"+

Study the red, green, gold and blue zones on the

stitch length control.. These are recommended zones

of stitch length and are color-coded to the stitches..

Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance

In stretch stitch sewing, the stitch length control should be in

the detent position between "S" and "L" ( 'IV position) for

most materials Depending upon the type of fabric used, you

may need to adjust this control to match forward stitches of

stretch sewing with reverse motion stitches.. To shorten

stretch stitches, turn the control slightly toward "S"

To lengthen, turn toward" L"

Reverse Stitch Control

BH I _ 3 4 s s 7 ;,

fit il

, ++" ,........

t"

01234

J

f

LEN'GTH

L,T ,S

@

Sewing will be made in reverse while the reverse stitch

control is pressed.

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SECTION II1. STRAIGHT STITCH SEWING

Straight Stitch

(_) Stitch selector: 1 or 2

(_) Stitch length: Red zone

Needle thread tension: 2 to 6

(_ Presser foot: Straight stitch foot

(g) Presser foot: Zigzag foot

NOTE: When using the straight stitch foot, make sure to set

the stitch selector at 1 (Center needle position)

Otherwise the needle may strike the sewing foot and

possibly break_

I

0 ®

® ®

% oro

OU

. Starting to sew

Raise the presser foot and position the fabric next to a seam

guide line on the needle plate (5/8" is most common)

Lower the needle to the point where you want to start. Lower the

presser foot and pull the threads toward the back. Depress the

foot control, Gently guide the fabric along a seam guide line

letting the fabric feed naturally

• Finishing sewing

To fasten the ends of a seam, press the reverse stitch control

and sew several reverse stitches, Raise the presser foot,

Remove the fabric, draw the threads to the back and cut them

with the thread cutter The threads are cut in a proper length for

the next seam

Use the Seam Guides

(_) Cornering guide

(_) Guide lines in inches

(_) Guide lines in millimeters

The seam guides on the needle plate are there to help you

measure seam width The lines are 1/8" (0.3 cm) apart, with the

3/8", 4/8", 5/8", and 6/8" lines engraved. The lines in millimeters

are 5 mm apart, with the 10 mm, 15 mm and 20 mm lines

engraved_

Turn a Square Corner

O Cornering guide

To turn a square corner 5/8" (1_6cm) from the fabric edge

1 Stop stitching and lower the needle by turning handwheel

counterclockwise, toward you, when the fabric edge facing

you lines up with the edge of the needle plate as shown.

2. Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric to line up the edge

With the 5/8" (1.6 cm) seam guide.

3. Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in the new

direction.

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Kenmore 385.15512 User manual

Kenmore 385.15512 User manual

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