Kenmore 385.15408, 385.15202, 38515408500 User manual

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SEWmNG MACHmNE
Owner's Manual (Operating fundamentals)
MAQUINA DE COSER
Manual de Instrucdones
MACHmNE A COUDRE (Principes fundamentaux)
Manuel d'instructions
Model, Modelo, ModUle 385.15202, 15408
304-800q79 Sears, Roebuck and Co., Hoffman Estates, IL 60179 U.S.A. www.sears.com
MPORTANT SAFETY
NSTRUCT ONS
When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including
the following:
Read all instructions before using tn_s appliance,
DANGER - To reduce the risk of e,ectnc shocK:
1. An appliance ShOUld never De eft unattended wnen p!ugged in. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electric
outlet tmmealate b after using and before cleantng.
2. Always unplug before re _laclng a sewing machine bulb. Redlace pulP wI[n same type ra[ed
15 Watts.
WARNING To redupe the risk ofburns fire. electric shocK or ,njury to persons:
1. Do not allow to be used as a to;. Close attenhon _s nepessar_ wnen this sewing macnlne is used by or near phildren.
2. Use this appliance on _ for its qtendeu use as described Lnthis owner's manual Use on _ attacnments recom
mended by the manufacturer as contained _ntins owner's manual.
3. Never operate tnls sewing macmne if it has a damaged pore or plug, if _tis not worKlng properly, _tt nas peen
dropped or damaged, or dropped nto wa[er.
Return this sewing macnlne to the nearest Sears store or serwce center for examination, reoalr, electnca! or me
chanica! adjustment.
4. Never operate tne appliance witb an_ air open nc blocked. Keep venulat_on openings of this sewing macnlne and foot
controller free from accumulation of lint aus[ and _oose c_o_n
5. Never drop or insert any object into an_ opening
6. Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate wnere aerosol {spray.} products are being used or wnere oxygen is pe_ng aamlnisterea
8. To disconnect, turn aH controls to the off t"O"t oosltlon, tnen remove p!ug from outlet
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp tne p_ug, not tne cord
10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.
11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
12. Do not use bent needles.
13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
14. Switch this sewing machine off ("O") when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as threading the needle,
changing the needle, threading the bobbin, changing the presser foot, and the like.
15. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any
other adjustments mentioned in this owner's manual.
SAVE THESE NSTRUCT ONS
NOTE: Sewing machine design and specifications are subject to change without prior notice.
PROTECTION AGREEMENTS
in the U.S.A.
Master Protection Agreements
Congratulations on making a smart purchase.Your new
Kenmore {'_product is designed and manufactured for years
of dependable operation. But like al! products, it may
require preventive maintenance or repair from time to time.
That's when having a Master Protection Agreement can
save you money ana aggravation
Purchase a Master Protection Agreement now ano oroTec[
yourseff from unexpected hassle ana expense.
The Master Protection Agreement alSO ne os extena tne
life of your new product. Here's whets nc!uaea In me
Agreement:
Acuerdo PdncipaB de Protecci6n
Felicitaciones per haber hecho una compra
Inteligente. Su nuevo producto Kenmord _esta dise¢_ado y fabricado
para a_os de fiable operaci6n. Pero come todo producto puede
requerir de mantenimiento preventive o reparaciones de vez en
cuando. Entonces es cuando el tener un Acuerdo Principal de
Protecci6n ouede ahorrarle dinero y dtsgustos.
Corm_re un Acuerdo Princloa de ProteccJ6n anora y proTejase de
-_FoDleFRBS V exoensas lne<_DeFao_s.
Et Acuerdo Print pa_ ae Protecci6n tambien ayuaa a extender la
waa ae su nee\ o Drooucl:o.
Aaui esta _oque se _ncluye ene Acuerao:
_/ El ServicJo Profesional de nuestros 12.000 esaec_at_stas en
rE 3arac_oRes
[] Expert service b_ our 12.000 orofessiona repair ,/Servicio Ilimitado sin cargo per cartes o [rsba 3 en [oaas tas
specialists r_ 3aracJones cue_ertas.
[] Unlimited service and no charge for parts and iabor
on all covered reoalrs ,/Garantia de Reemplazo reemelazamos sL oroducto
[] ""No-memon"" guarantee -- reolacement of your ;ue_er[o er e] acuerao s cuatro o rues faltas de mismo
3curren en e_plazo de aoce meses.
covered product if four or more oroduct failures occur
within twelve morons
[] Product repmacement if your covered oroduct can't ee
fixed
[] Annual Preventive Maintenance Check at your
request -- no extra charge
[] Fast hemp by phone onone support from a Sears
technician on proouc_s requlring nonome rer_alr. 3tus
convenient repair scheduling
[] Power surge protection against electrica aamage aue
to power fluctuations
[] RentaJ reimbursement if repair of your covered
product takes longer than promised
Reemp{azo eel Produeto s su oroducto cub_erto en et
acuerao no pueae set reDaraec
Mantenimiento Anaa_ Preventive a su peatao- sin cargo
extra.
Ayuda Rapida per Tel_fono ayuda tetef6nica per un
t6cnico espec_austa de Sears er eroauc[os aue requieren
_rreg_o en case. aaemes puede ftj _r una c_ta conveniente pare
EC3areclen
[] Proteccion EJ6ctrica centre fluctuaciones de la electricidad
que puede producir da¢_os
Once you purchase the Agreement, a simple phone call is
all that it takes for you to schedule service.You can cal!
anytime day or night, or schedule a service appointment
online.
Sears has over 12,000 professional repair specialists, who
have access to over 4.5 million quality parts and
accessories. That's the kind of professionalism you can
count on to help pro!ong the life of your new purchase for
years to come. Purchase your Master Protection
Agreement today!
Some Hmitations and excmusions appmyo
For prices and additional information call
1-800_827-6655,
Sears Installation Service
For Sears professional installation of home
appliances, garage door openers, water heaters, and other
major home items, in the U.S.A. call
1-800o4-MYoHOME _
[] Reembo_so de Ja Renta sila reparaci6n de su producto
cubierto en el acuerdo tome mas tiempo que el prometido.
Una vez que asted compra et acuerdo una simple Ilamada
tetefSnica es todo Io que te tomara para fijar una cita de servicio.
Usted puede tlamar a cualquier hera, dia o noche, o fijar la cita de
servicio per el oniine.
Sears tiene mas de 12.000 profesionaies especialistas en
reparaciones, que tienen acceso amas de 4.5 millones de partes y
accesorios. Esa es ta ciase de profesionalismo con ta que usted
puede contar para prolongar la vida de su nueva compra en a_os
per venir, iCompre su Acuerdo Principal de Protecci6n hey!
Algunas limitaciones y exclusiones pueden ap_icaree.
Per precios e informaci6n adiciona_ Hame a_1-800=827-668&
Servicio de Insta_aci6n Sears
Pare et servicio profesionat de instalaci6n de
de aparatos det hogar, controtes pare abrir puerta de garaje,
ca!entadores de agua, y otros articu!os mayores det hogar, Ilame
en E.E.U.U., al 1-800-4-MY-HOME ®
_v
Machine Specifications (15202)
S
Item
Sewing speed (Maximum)
Stitch length:
Stitch width:
Built=in stitches:
Buttonhole:
Machine aimens!ons:
Weight (Net):
Specification
Over 730 s.p.m
4 mm 'Maximum,
5 mm Maximum
2
4 stee bullt-ln buttonhole
W15W' 390mmlxD6.1"',155mm)xH 11.4"(290mm
13.2 _)s {5.9kg
Especificaciones de [a m_quJna (15202)
Art[cu[o
velocldad ae costura MaxH_a_
Longitud de pun[aaa
Ancho de puntaaa
Integradas:
Ojales:
Dimensiones de la maqu_na
Peso:
Especificaci6n
M&s de 730 s.o.m
mm (Maxima
5 mm fMaxlma
2
Func_on ae ojal ncorporaao de 4 Dasos
390 mm 15.4": ue ancno _ 155 mm 6.1q de Drofundldad,
290mm 114 ueaffura
5.9kg 13.2 us
U Description
Caract6ristiques de [a machine (15202)
Vitesse de couture (Maximum)
Longueur du point:
Largeur du point:
Points int6gr6s:
Boutonniere:
Dimensions de ta machine:
Poids de ta machine:
Caract@ristiques
730 points-minute en outre
4 mm (Maximum)
5 mm (Maximum)
2
Boutonni6re int6gr6e en 4 etapes
Largeur: 390 mm (15.4") x Profondeur: 155 mm (6.1") x
Hauteur: 290 mm (11.4")
5.9kg (13.2 Ib)
v
Machine Specifications (15408)
S
Item
Sewing speed (Maximum)
Stitch length:
Stitch width:
Builtdn stitches:
Buttonhole:
Machine almens!ons:
Weight (Net):
Specification
Over 730 s.p.m
4 mm (Maximum)
5 mm Maximum
8
4 steo built-ln buttonhole
W15,4" 390mmlxD6,1" 155mm xH 11.4"(290mmi
13.2 _)s _5.9kg
Articu!o
Velocldad de costura Maxima
Longitud de pumaaa
Ancho de pumaaa
tntegradas:
Ojales:
Dimensiones de ta maqutna
Peso:
Especificaciones de la maquina (15408)
Espeeificaci6n
M_s de 730 s.p.m
zl mm (M_xlm8
5 mm _Maxlma
8
Funci6n e@ ojal ncorporaao de 4 DaSOS
390 mm 15.4"_ _e ancno, 155 mm 6.1q de Drofundldad,
290mm 11 4 _ea_tura
5.9kg 13.2 #s
U Description
Caract_ristiques de la machine (15408)
Vitesse de couture (Maximum)
Longueur du point:
Largeur du point:
Points int6gr6s:
Boutonniere:
Dimensions de ta machine:
Poids de ta machine:
Caract_ristiques
730 points-minute en outre
4 mm (Maximum)
5 mm (Maximum)
8
Boutonniere int6gr(_e en 4 etapes
Largeur: 390 mm (15.4") x Profondeur: 155 mm (6.1") x
Hauteur: 290 mm (11.4")
5.9kg (13.2 Ib)
vI
Kenmore Sewing Machine Warranty
Fu[[ 25 Year Warranty on Sewing Machine DieoCast Metal Frame
For 25 years from the date of purchase, Sears wil! provide free repair for the die-cast metal frame of this sewing
machine if it is defective in material or workmanship.
Fu[[ 10 Year Warranty on [nternaJ Mechanical Cam ponents
For 10 years from the date of aurcnase. Sears wil arovlae free reoalr for the interna mechanicam components of this
sewing machine f they are defective ir material or worKmansnle. This 10 ]ear warram_ aces noz qcIuae celts, which
are only included in 90 ear warranty described #e!ow.
Fu[[ 2 Year Warranty on Sewing Machine Exterior Components
For 2 years from tne date of ourcnase. Sears wi arovide free reoair for al! components of this sewing macnlne exterior
if they are defective in material or workmanship This 2 _ear warranty aces not inc_uae needle plate or accessory parts,
which are only ncluded in the 90 day warranty described #elow.
Full 2YearWarranty on Electrical Equipment
For 2 years from tne date of ourcnase. Sears wi arovide free repair for the elecmcal equlpmem of this sewing ma-
chine, if any part of it. ncludlng motor, wlrlng, electronic circuitry, switch aria speed control, is defective }n materla Dr
workmanship. This 2 ,ear warrant_, does not Include Hgnt DU!DS. which are on b Included - the 90 day warranty de-
scribed below.
Fuji 90 Day Warranty on Mechanical Adjustments and Specified Parts
For 90 days from the date of aurcnase. Sears _v_ orovlde
* free mechanical ac Jstments necessary for the proper operahon of this sewing macnlne, exce )t for norma machine
care and maintenance as described q the owners manual
, free replacemem of belts, light bulbs, needle pJates and accessory carts if the_ are defective _n matena Dr
workmanship
This 90 day warranty aces not include sewing macnlne needles wn!cn are expendable 9arts
Warranty service is availabJe by returning this sewing machine to the nearest Sears Parts & Repair Center in
the United States
if this sewing macnlne is used for commercial or rema purposes, *varramy service is avauaDie for on y 90 eays from
the date of purchase.
This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights which vary from state to state.
Sears, Roebuck and Co., D/817WA, Hoffman Estates, BL60179 U.S.A.
v_
SECTION I. NAMES OF PARTS
Cabinets and Sewing Machine Tote Bag ........................ 2
Names of Parts .............................................................. 2
Available Accessories and Attachments ........................ 4
SECTmON H. GETTmNG READYTO SEW
Connecting Machine to Power Supply ........................... 6
Before Using Your Sewing Machine 6
For Your Safety 6
Polarized P!ug ........................................................... 6
Controlling Sewing Seeee 6
Setting Spool Pins 8
Presser Foot L Rer ......................................................... 8
Thread Cutter 8
Accessory Box ............................................................. 8
Extension Table ............................................................ 10
Detaching the _aele .................................................... 10
Attaching me ladle 10
Changing Needle ...................................................... 10
To Remove and Attach the =oot Molaer ....................... 10
To remove .................................................................. 10
To attach ................................................................. !0
Changing Presser Foot ................................................ 12
To remove ................................................................ 12
To attach .................................................................... 12
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Use the Seam Guides .................................................. 32
Turn a Square Corner .................................................. 32
Variable Needle Position .............................................. 34
Topstitching .................................................................. 34
Zipper Sewing ......................................................... 34-38
* Fabric preparation ...................................................... 34
To se,_ ...................................................................... 38
To Drop or Raise the Feed Dogs .................................. 38
Darning ....................................................................... 38
SECTION IV. ZIGZAG STITCH SEWmNG
Basic Zigzag ............................................................. 40
Satin Stitching ........................................................... 40
Monogramming .......................................................... 42
Applique ...................................................................... 42
Bar Tacking .................................................................. 44
Button Sewing ......... 44
Overcasting Stitch ..................................................... 46
Multiple Zigzag Stitch tMode 15408 exclusive) ........... 46
. Seam finishing ............ 46
- Mending .................................................................... 48
SECTION V. UTiLiTY AND DECORATmVE
STITCHES
Blind Hem Stitch Model 15408 exclusive, 48
Lace Work [ V1odeJ 15408 exclusive 48
Presser Foot Types .......................................................
Shel Stitch Model 15408 excluswe ...................... 50
Zigzag foot ............................... 12
Sliding buttonno a foot ............................................... 12
Zipper foot .................................................................. 12
Straight stitch foot ...................................................... 12
Selecting Needle and Fabric ....................................... la.
Bobbin Winding ............. 18o22
Removing bobbin case ...................... 18
Bobbin winding ..................................................... 18o20
inserting Do_)tn ......................................................... 22
Threading the Machine ................................................ 24
Threading the machine .............................................. 24
Drawing up bobbin thread .......................................... 24
Adjust the Needle Thread Tension for a
Straight Stitch ............................................................... 26
Correct tension .......................................................... 26
Tension is too tight ..................................................... 26
Tension is too loose ................................................... 26
Adjust bobbin tension ................................................ 26
Adjust the Needle Thread Tension for a Zigzag Stitch _. 28
Correct tension .......................................................... 28
Tension is too tight ..................................................... 28
Tension is too loose ................................................... 28
Stitch Pattern Selector ................................................. 30
Stitch Length Dial ......................................................... 30
Stitch Width Dial ........................................................... 30
Reverse Stitch Control ................................................. 30
Decorative Stitch Patterns Mode 15408 exclusive) .... 50
"RA/inNeedle Stitches Oetion'_ 52
SECTION W. BUTTONHOLE
Buttonhole ............................................................ 54-56
To a%us_ bu_onnole s_t_cn aensl_ 54
Starting _o se\A ................................................. 54-58
SECTION Vii. CARE OF YOUR MACHINE
Replacing the Light Bulb .............................................. 58
Cleaning the Feed Dogs .............................................. 58
Cleaning the Shuttle Race ........................................... 60
Cleaning the shuttle area ........................................... 60
Replacing shuttle assembly ....................................... 60
Oiling the Machine ....................................................... 62
Oil behind the face cover ........................................... 62
Oil the shuttle area ..................................................... 62
Troubleshooting ............................................................ 64
SECTION HL STRAIGHT STITCH SEWING
Straight Stitch ............................................................... 32
Starting to sew ........................................................... 32
Finishing sewing ........................................................ 32
* Please note that some of the sections listed above not related to fundamental operations have been omitted from this manual
x
SECTION I. NAMES OF PARTS
Cabinets and Sewing Machine Tote Bag
(RSOS # 97611)
Sewing Machine cabinets and Tote bag are available
through the RSOS (Retail Special Order System) catalog at
your nearest Sears retail store.
Names of Parts
(_ Stitch pattern selector
(_) Reverse stitch control
Stitch pattern setting display
(_ Stitch length dial
(_) Stitch width dial
Bobbin winder spindle
Spool pins
(_) Bobbin winding tension disc
(_ Upper needle thread guide
Thread take-up lever
(_ Thread tension dial
Face cover
(_ Thread cutter
(_) Needle plate
_) Extension table (Accessory box)
{_) Carrying handle
(_ Handwheel
_) Power switch
(_ Machine socket
(_ Free-arm
(_) Presser foot lifter
Presser foot holder
Thumb screw
Presser foot
Needle clamp screw
Needle
Foot control
Available Accessories and Attachments
To order parts and accessories listed below, call:
1-800-4-MY-HOM E® (1-800-469-4663)
When ordering parts and accessories, provide the following
information:
1. Part Number
2. Part Name
3. Model Number of Machine
Ref. No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
2O
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
3O
31
32
33
Part No.
532096007
647515006
*102869107
*200119102
647018004
735802009
*993001100
*993011100
*993011400
*993011600
*993011800
801506008
611413002
731806001
611511001
*737801015
611406002
611510000
647112009ii ii
000009803
647808009
802424004
820832005
64780300_
*741814003
*200262101
*743815000
*214872011
*940200000
*941620000
*941850000
*940250000
*743813008
*200117100
*620404008
*611411000
033770217
Description
Shuttle hook
Bobbin case
10 x Bobbin
Twin needle
Bobbin winder rubber ring
Assorted needle set
5 x No. 11 stretch fabric needle (BLUE)
5 x No. 11 needle (ORANGE)
5 x No. 14 needle (RED)
5 x No. 16 needle (PURPLE)
5 x No. 18 needle (GREEN)
Needle clamp with screw
Sliding buttonhole foo t
Straight stitch foot
Zigzag foot
Satin stitch foot
zipper fo0t
_!_b s_r_w
Ught bulb
Seam ripper/Buttonho!e opener
Lint brush ......
E_[ge screwdrive_
SmalI screwdriver
Hemmer foot (2ram)
Walking foot
Pin-tuck foot
Ruffler
Binder foot
Ultraglide foot
Cording foot
Embroidery foot
Ovedock foot
Blind hem foot
Foot Control
* These items are not furnished with the machine, but may be
ordered per instructions above.
( Model 15408 exclusive)
To order additional parts not listed above for a do-it-
yourself repair:
1. Using the Internet, type in "www3.sears.com" to reach
the Sears Parts Web site.
2. Follow the prompts, and enter your sewing machine
model number.You can find your sewing machine model
number on the back of your machine, on the
Nomenclaure Plate. Enter the first eight digits of this
number, followed by an asterisk (example: 385.15408*).
iiiiiii!
f
1
5
14
18m
/
*22
2
6
*3
*7 ¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸8
-x
*4
\
15 16 17
13m
19 20
*30 "31 *32
\
33
SECTION II. GETTING READYTO SEW
Connecting Machine to Power Supply
(_ Power supply plug
(_) Power switch
(_) Outlet
@ Machine socket
@ Machine plug
@ Sewing light
Before connecting the power cord. make sure the voltage
and frequency shown on the machine conform to your
electrical power.
1. Turn off the power switch (_).
2. Insert the machine plug _ into the machine socket 4_.
3. Insert the power supply plug _ into the outlet 3.
4. Turn the power switch _ to activate the 0ower and
sewing light@.
Before Using Your Sewing Machine
Before using your sewing machine for the first time. place a
waste fabric under the presser foot and run the machine
with thread for a few minutes. W pe away any oil which may
appear.
For Your Safety
* While in operation, always keep your eyes on the sewing
area. Do not touch any moving parts such as the thread
take-up lever, handwheel or needle.
* Always turn off the power switch and unplug from the
power supply:
- When leaving the machine unattended
- When attaching or removing any parts
- When cleaning the machine
* Do not place anything on the foot control, wnen not
sewing.
Polarized Plug
This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than
the other). To reduce the risk of an electric shock, this plug
is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the
plug does not fit in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does
not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper
outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.
Foot Controller Model YC-482J or TJC-150 is used with
Sewing Machine Model 385.15202 and 15408.
Controlling Sewing Speed
Sewing speed can be varied by the foot control.
The harder you press on the foot control, the faster the
machine runs.
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Setting Spool Pins
_) Spool pin
The spool pins are used for holding the spools of thread
when feeding the thread to the machine.
To use, pull up the spool pins. Push down for storage.
Presser Foot Lifter
(_) Presser foot lifter
(_ Normal up position
@ Highest position
The presser foot lifter raises and lowers the presser foot.
You can raise t about 1/4" (0.6 cm) higher than the normal
up position for easy removal of the presser foot. or to help
place heavy fabric under the foot.
Thread Cutter
(_ Thread cutter
You do not need a pair of scissors to cut threads after
sewing. Simply use the built-in thread cutter.
Accessory Box
Open the cover of the accessory box toward you. The
sewing accessories are conveniently located in the box.
Extension Table
Detaching the table
Pull the table away from the machine, as illustrated, for
"free-arm" sewing of cuffs and sleeves.
Attaching the table
Push the extension table until it snaps into the machine.
(_) Extension table
(_) Pin
(_ Holes
@ Tab
(_) Free-arm
Changing Needle
(_ Needle clamp screw
(_) Needle clamp
[_Turn off the power switch.
Raise the needle to its highest position by turning the
handwheel counterclockwise, toward you. and lowering
the presser foot. Loosen the needle clamp screw_by
turning it counterclockwise. Remove the needle from the
needle clamp (_).
[] insert a new needle nto the needle clamp@with the
flat side to the rear. When inserting the needle into the
needle clamp (_), push it up as far as it goes. Tighten
the needle clamp screw 1_ firmly by turning it clockwise.
[] To see if the needle is good, place the fiat side of the
needle onto something flat (e.g needle plate or glass).
The gap between the needle and the flat surface should
be consistent. Never use a bent or blunt needle.
A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs
in knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics.
To Remove and Attach the Foot Holder
_i_ Thumb screw
_2_Foot holder
_3_Presser bar
To remove
Remove the thumb screw _1_by turning it counterclock-
wise with a screwdriver.
To attach
Match the hole in the foot holder _2_with the threaded
hole in the presser bar _3_. Fit the thumb screw _i_ into
the hole. Tighten the screw _1_by turning it clockwise with
screwdriver.
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=lat side
_ado Diane Needle
',4eclat Aguja
Aiguille
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10
Changing Presser Foot
(_) Lever
_)Groove
®Pin
To remove
Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the needle to its
highest position. Raise the presser foot.
Press the lever (_)on the back of the foot holder. The
presser foot will drop off.
To attach
Place the presser foot so that the pin _on the foot lines
up directly below the groove _ of the foot holder.
Lower the foot holder to lock the foot in 01ace.
Presser Foot Types
Zigzag foot
Use this foot for both straight and zigzag stitching.
For: Straight stitch (page 32)
Topstitching (page 34)
Basic zigzag (page 40_
Satin stitching (page 40_
Monogramming (page 42)
Applique (page 42)
Bar tacking (page 44)
Button sewing [page 44_
Overcasting stitch (page 46)
* Multiple zigzag stitch (page 46_
* Blind hem stitch (page 48_
* Lace work (,page 48_
* Shell stitch (page 50_
* Decorative stitch patterns (page 50_
Twin needle stitch [page 52_
(*Model 15408 exclusive)
Sliding buttonhole foot
Use this foot for manual buttonhole making. It is marked
to help you measure a buttonhole accurately.
For: Buttonhole sewing (page 54)
Zipper foot (Model 15408 exclusive)
The edge of the foot guides the zipper and keeps the
seam straight.
For:Zipper sewing (page 34)
Straight stitch foot (Model 15408 exclusive)
Use this foot exclusively for straight stitching with the
center needle position.
For: Straight stitch (page 32)
Topstitching (page 34)
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12
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Selecting Needle and Fabric
For general sewing, use needle sizes 11 or 14. A fine thread and needle should be
used for sewing lightweight fabrics, so the fabric will not be marred. Heavy fabrics
require a needle large enough to pierce the fabric without fraying the needle thread.
In the needle set, there is one each of sizes 11, 14, 16, and 18, and a blue needle.
Use the blue needle to eliminate skipped stitches when sewing knits and synthetic
fabrics.
Special needles should be used on certain fabrics. A dentm needle with a sharp tip
effectively pierces dense fabrics such as denim and canvas. For topstitching, s
special topstitching needle with a targer eye accommodates heavier weight thread
Leather needles punch small holes n leather and suede, allowing the thread to
follow through the hole.
Check your needles frequently for rough or blunt tips. Snags and runs in <nits. fine
silks and silk-like fabrics are permanent, and are often caused by damag ad
needles.
Always purchase a good quality thread. It should be strong, smooth and consistent
in thickness.
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WEIGHT FABRIC TYPE OF NEEDLE NEEDLE SIZE
Chiffon, Georgette, Fine Lace, Organdy, Organdy Universal 9 (65)
Very Light Net, Tulle Ball Point 9 (65)
Batiste, Voile, Lawn, Pure Silk, Crepe de Chine, Orange 11 (75)
Sheer Crepe, Chambray, Handkerchief Linen, Blue 11 (75)
Gingham, Challis, Percale, Wool Crepe, Peau de Sole, 12 (80)
Taffeta, Satin, Silk Surah, Satin-backed Crepe,
Light Qiana
Blue 11 (75)
Single Knits, Jersey, Swimwear, Tricot Ball Point 11 (75)
Wedge Point Leather 11 (75)
Flannel, Velour, Velvet, Muslin, Velveteen, Poplin,
Corduroy, Broadcloth, Linen, Chintz, Gabardine, Felt, Red 14 (90)
Terry, Burlap, Quilted Fabrics
Medium Double Knits, (synthetic and natural) Stretch
Velour,
Stretch Terry, Ball Point 14 (90)
Sweater Knits
Leather, Vinyl, Suede Wedge Point Leather 14 (90)
Denim, Sailcloth, Ticking Denim 16 (100)
Double Faced Wool, Heavy Coating, Fake Fur, Purple 16 (100)
Heavy Drapery Fabrics
Leather, Suede Wedge Point Leather 16 (100)
Canvas, Duck, Upholstery Fabrics Green 18 (110)
11 (75)
All Topstitching for Special Finish Topstitching 14 (90)
14
Bobbin Winding
Removing bobbin case
Remove the extension table from the machine by pulling
it to the left. Open the shuttle cover(_by pulling down
the embossed part on the left of the cover.
Raise the needle to its highest position by rotating the
handwheel toward you.
(_) Shuttle cover
(_) Bobbin case
To remove the bobbin case _ from the shuttle Dull open
the latch of the bobbin case. Pull the bobbin case straight
out of the shuttle.
Bobbin winding
[] Release the clutch by pulling out the handwheel. This
will stop the needle from moving while you wind the
bobbin.
[] Draw thread from the spool.
[] Guide the thread around the thread guide.
[_Thread through the hole in the bobbin from the inside to
the outside.
[] Put the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle.
[]
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[] []
[]
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Bobbin winding (continued)
[] Push the bobbin to the right.
[_With the free end of the thread held in your hand,
depress the foot control. Stop the machine when the
bobbin has made a few turns, and cut the thread close
to the hole in the bobbin.
[]
[] Depress the foot control again. When the bobbin s fully
wound, it stops automatically. Return the bobbin winder
to its original position by moving the spindle to the left.
and cut the thread.
[] Push in the handwheel to engage the clutch
* The machine does not function until the clutch is
engaged.
NOTE:
The position of the bobbin winder stopper is adjustable
depending on required amount of thread on bobbin
(i.e. 1/2 full or full). Use a screwdriver and loosen the
screw one turn or less. Do not take the screw all the way
out. Adjust the position of the bobbin winder stopper.
Retighten the screw.
[]
r
[]
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Inserting bobbin
[] Place a bobbin in the bobbin case, making sure the
thread feeds clockwise from the bobbin.
[] Draw the thread through the slot of the case.
[]
[] Continue to draw the thread under the tension spring
and through the opening.
Pull out about 4" (10 cm) of thread.
(_ Tension spring
[] Holding the latch _ open, insert the bobbin case into
the shuttle so that the bobbin case prong (_ fits into the
shuttle slot (_.
(_) Latch
(_) Bobbin case prong
(_) Shuttle slot
[] Release latch. Bobbin case will lock into place.
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22
Threading the Machine
Threading the machine
* Raise the thread take-up lever to its highest position by
turning the handwheel counterclockwise.
* Raise the presser foot lifter.
* Place a spool on the spool pin, with thread coming off as
shown.
[] Draw the end of thread around the upper thread guide.
[_While holding the thread near the spool, draw the end of
the thread down around the check spnng holder
[] Firmly draw the thread up and from right to left over the
take-up lever then down into the take-up lever eye.
[_ Slide the thread behind the needle bar thread guide or"
the left.
E_Thread the needle from front to back.
Drawing up bobbin thread
[] Raise the presser foot. Hold the needle thread lightly
with your left hand.
[] Rotate the handwheel counterclockwise, toward you, for
one complete turn. Bring the bobbin thread up by pulling
the needle thread up.
[] Pull both threads 4" to 6" (10.0 to 15.0 cm) under and
behind the presser foot.
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\% .[]
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[]
[]
[]
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Adjust the Needle Thread Tension for a Straight
Stitch
Correct tension
(_ Needle thread (Top thread)
(_ Bobbin thread (Bottom thread)
@ To loosen
(_ To tighten
The idealstraightstitchhas threads locked between two
layersoffabric as illustrated[magnified to show detaih.
Ifyou look at the top and bottom of a seam noticethat
there are no gaps. Each stitchissmooth and even.
When adjustingthe needle thread tension,the higher the
number, the tighterthe needle thread tension.
Results depend on:
- stiffnessand thickness ofthe fabric
- number of fabriclayers
- type of stitch
Tension is too tight
_) Needle thread (Top thread)
(_ Bobbin thread (Bottom thread,
(_) To loosen
(_ Right side (Top side) of fabric
@ Wrong side (Bottom slde_ of fabric
If the bobbin thread shows through on the right side (Top
side) of the fabric, and the stitch feels bumpy, turn the dial
to a lower tension setting number to loosen the needle
thread tension.
Tension is too loose
<_ Needle thread (Toe thread)
Bobbin thread (Bottom thread_
@ To tighten
(_ Right side (Top side) of fabric
@ Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric
If the needle thread shows through on the wrong side
(Bottom side) of the fabric, and the stitch feels bumpy, turn
the dial to a higher tension setting number to tighten the
needle thread tension.
Adjust bobbin tension
(_)Adjusting screw
(_)lncrease tension
@ Decrease tension
NOTE:
Small screwdriver is not furnished with model 15202, but
may be ordered. (page 4)
In some instances, you may need to adjust the bobbin
thread tension.
Turn the adjusting screw _)in the direction of @when the
bobbin thread tension is too tight.
Turn the adjusting screw(_)in the direction of(_when the
bobbin thread tension is too loose.
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26
Adjust the Needle Thread Tension for a Zigzag
Stitch
For an ideal zigzag stitch, the bobbin thread does not show
on the right side (Top side) of the fabric and needle thread
shows slightly on the wrong side (Bottom side) of the
fabric.
See the illustrations for correct appearance.
To match this appearance, adjust the needle tension.
Correct tension
(_ Right side (Top side) of fabric
(_) Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric
Minimize the amount of needle thread visible on the
wrong side (Bottom side) of the fabric without causing
excessive puckering or causing bobbin thread to show on
the right side (Top side) of the fabric
Results vary with fabric thread and sewing condition
Tension is too tight
(_ Right side (Top side) of fabric
(_ Wrong side (Bottom side, of fabric
The corner of each zigzag pulls together on the right side
(Top side) of fabric.
Tension is too loose
(_) Right side (Top side) of fabric
(_) Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric
Corner of each zigzag pulls together on the wrong side
(Bottom side) of fabric.
1D 2D
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