Kenmore 385.15408 User manual

SEWmNG MACHmNE

Owner's Manual (Operating fundamentals)

MAQUINA DE COSER

Manual de Instrucdones

MACHmNE A COUDRE (Principes fundamentaux)

Manuel d'instructions

Model, Modelo, ModUle 385.15202, 15408

304-800q79 Sears, Roebuck and Co., Hoffman Estates, IL 60179 U.S.A. www.sears.com

MPORTANT SAFETY

NSTRUCT ONS

When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including

the following:

Read all instructions before using tn_s appliance,

DANGER - To reduce the risk of e,ectnc shocK:

1. An appliance ShOUld never De eft unattended wnen p!ugged in. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electric

outlet tmmealate b after using and before cleantng.

2. Always unplug before re _laclng a sewing machine bulb. Redlace pulP wI[n same type ra[ed

15 Watts.

WARNING To redupe the risk ofburns fire. electric shocK or ,njury to persons:

1. Do not allow to be used as a to;. Close attenhon _s nepessar_ wnen this sewing macnlne is used by or near phildren.

2. Use this appliance on _ for its qtendeu use as described Lnthis owner's manual Use on _ attacnments recom

mended by the manufacturer as contained _ntins owner's manual.

3. Never operate tnls sewing macmne if it has a damaged pore or plug, if _tis not worKlng properly, _tt nas peen

dropped or damaged, or dropped nto wa[er.

Return this sewing macnlne to the nearest Sears store or serwce center for examination, reoalr, electnca! or me

chanica! adjustment.

4. Never operate tne appliance witb an_ air open nc blocked. Keep venulat_on openings of this sewing macnlne and foot

controller free from accumulation of lint aus[ and _oose c_o_n

5. Never drop or insert any object into an_ opening

6. Do not use outdoors.

7. Do not operate wnere aerosol {spray.} products are being used or wnere oxygen is pe_ng aamlnisterea

8. To disconnect, turn aH controls to the off t"O"t oosltlon, tnen remove p!ug from outlet

9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp tne p_ug, not tne cord

10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.

11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.

12. Do not use bent needles.

13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.

14. Switch this sewing machine off ("O") when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as threading the needle,

changing the needle, threading the bobbin, changing the presser foot, and the like.

15. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any

other adjustments mentioned in this owner's manual.

SAVE THESE NSTRUCT ONS

NOTE: Sewing machine design and specifications are subject to change without prior notice.

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PROTECTION AGREEMENTS

in the U.S.A.

Master Protection Agreements

Congratulations on making a smart purchase.Your new

Kenmore {'_product is designed and manufactured for years

of dependable operation. But like al! products, it may

require preventive maintenance or repair from time to time.

That's when having a Master Protection Agreement can

save you money ana aggravation

Purchase a Master Protection Agreement now ano oroTec[

yourseff from unexpected hassle ana expense.

The Master Protection Agreement alSO ne os extena tne

life of your new product. Here's whets nc!uaea In me

Agreement:

Acuerdo PdncipaB de Protecci6n

Felicitaciones per haber hecho una compra

Inteligente. Su nuevo producto Kenmord _esta dise¢_ado y fabricado

para a_os de fiable operaci6n. Pero come todo producto puede

requerir de mantenimiento preventive o reparaciones de vez en

cuando. Entonces es cuando el tener un Acuerdo Principal de

Protecci6n ouede ahorrarle dinero y dtsgustos.

Corm_re un Acuerdo Princloa de ProteccJ6n anora y proTejase de

-_FoDleFRBS V exoensas lne<_DeFao_s.

Et Acuerdo Print pa_ ae Protecci6n tambien ayuaa a extender la

waa ae su nee\ o Drooucl:o.

Aaui esta _oque se _ncluye ene Acuerao:

_/ El ServicJo Profesional de nuestros 12.000 esaec_at_stas en

rE 3arac_oRes

[] Expert service b_ our 12.000 orofessiona repair ,/Servicio Ilimitado sin cargo per cartes o [rsba 3 en [oaas tas

specialists r_ 3aracJones cue_ertas.

[] Unlimited service and no charge for parts and iabor

on all covered reoalrs ,/Garantia de Reemplazo reemelazamos sL oroducto

[] ""No-memon"" guarantee -- reolacement of your ;ue_er[o er e] acuerao s cuatro o rues faltas de mismo

3curren en e_plazo de aoce meses.

covered product if four or more oroduct failures occur

within twelve morons

[] Product repmacement if your covered oroduct can't ee

fixed

[] Annual Preventive Maintenance Check at your

request -- no extra charge

[] Fast hemp by phone onone support from a Sears

technician on proouc_s requlring nonome rer_alr. 3tus

convenient repair scheduling

[] Power surge protection against electrica aamage aue

to power fluctuations

[] RentaJ reimbursement if repair of your covered

product takes longer than promised

Reemp{azo eel Produeto s su oroducto cub_erto en et

acuerao no pueae set reDaraec

Mantenimiento Anaa_ Preventive a su peatao- sin cargo

extra.

Ayuda Rapida per Tel_fono ayuda tetef6nica per un

t6cnico espec_austa de Sears er eroauc[os aue requieren

_rreg_o en case. aaemes puede ftj _r una c_ta conveniente pare

EC3areclen

[] Proteccion EJ6ctrica centre fluctuaciones de la electricidad

que puede producir da¢_os

Once you purchase the Agreement, a simple phone call is

all that it takes for you to schedule service.You can cal!

anytime day or night, or schedule a service appointment

online.

Sears has over 12,000 professional repair specialists, who

have access to over 4.5 million quality parts and

accessories. That's the kind of professionalism you can

count on to help pro!ong the life of your new purchase for

years to come. Purchase your Master Protection

Agreement today!

Some Hmitations and excmusions appmyo

For prices and additional information call

1-800_827-6655,

Sears Installation Service

For Sears professional installation of home

appliances, garage door openers, water heaters, and other

major home items, in the U.S.A. call

1-800o4-MYoHOME _

[] Reembo_so de Ja Renta sila reparaci6n de su producto

cubierto en el acuerdo tome mas tiempo que el prometido.

Una vez que asted compra et acuerdo una simple Ilamada

tetefSnica es todo Io que te tomara para fijar una cita de servicio.

Usted puede tlamar a cualquier hera, dia o noche, o fijar la cita de

servicio per el oniine.

Sears tiene mas de 12.000 profesionaies especialistas en

reparaciones, que tienen acceso amas de 4.5 millones de partes y

accesorios. Esa es ta ciase de profesionalismo con ta que usted

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per venir, iCompre su Acuerdo Principal de Protecci6n hey!

Algunas limitaciones y exclusiones pueden ap_icaree.

Per precios e informaci6n adiciona_ Hame a_1-800=827-668&

Servicio de Insta_aci6n Sears

Pare et servicio profesionat de instalaci6n de

de aparatos det hogar, controtes pare abrir puerta de garaje,

ca!entadores de agua, y otros articu!os mayores det hogar, Ilame

en E.E.U.U., al 1-800-4-MY-HOME ®

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Machine Specifications (15202)

S

Item

Sewing speed (Maximum)

Stitch length:

Stitch width:

Built=in stitches:

Buttonhole:

Machine aimens!ons:

Weight (Net):

Specification

Over 730 s.p.m

4 mm 'Maximum,

5 mm Maximum

2

4 stee bullt-ln buttonhole

W15W' 390mmlxD6.1"',155mm)xH 11.4"(290mm

13.2 _)s {5.9kg

Especificaciones de [a m_quJna (15202)

Art[cu[o

velocldad ae costura MaxH_a_

Longitud de pun[aaa

Ancho de puntaaa

Integradas:

Ojales:

Dimensiones de la maqu_na

Peso:

Especificaci6n

M&s de 730 s.o.m

mm (Maxima

5 mm fMaxlma

2

Func_on ae ojal ncorporaao de 4 Dasos

390 mm 15.4": ue ancno _ 155 mm 6.1q de Drofundldad,

290mm 114 ueaffura

5.9kg 13.2 us

U Description

Caract6ristiques de [a machine (15202)

Vitesse de couture (Maximum)

Longueur du point:

Largeur du point:

Points int6gr6s:

Boutonniere:

Dimensions de ta machine:

Poids de ta machine:

Caract@ristiques

730 points-minute en outre

4 mm (Maximum)

5 mm (Maximum)

2

Boutonni6re int6gr6e en 4 etapes

Largeur: 390 mm (15.4") x Profondeur: 155 mm (6.1") x

Hauteur: 290 mm (11.4")

5.9kg (13.2 Ib)

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Machine Specifications (15408)

S

Item

Sewing speed (Maximum)

Stitch length:

Stitch width:

Builtdn stitches:

Buttonhole:

Machine almens!ons:

Weight (Net):

Specification

Over 730 s.p.m

4 mm (Maximum)

5 mm Maximum

8

4 steo built-ln buttonhole

W15,4" 390mmlxD6,1" 155mm xH 11.4"(290mmi

13.2 _)s _5.9kg

Articu!o

Velocldad de costura Maxima

Longitud de pumaaa

Ancho de pumaaa

tntegradas:

Ojales:

Dimensiones de ta maqutna

Peso:

Especificaciones de la maquina (15408)

Espeeificaci6n

M_s de 730 s.p.m

zl mm (M_xlm8

5 mm _Maxlma

8

Funci6n e@ ojal ncorporaao de 4 DaSOS

390 mm 15.4"_ _e ancno, 155 mm 6.1q de Drofundldad,

290mm 11 4 _ea_tura

5.9kg 13.2 #s

U Description

Caract_ristiques de la machine (15408)

Vitesse de couture (Maximum)

Longueur du point:

Largeur du point:

Points int6gr6s:

Boutonniere:

Dimensions de ta machine:

Poids de ta machine:

Caract_ristiques

730 points-minute en outre

4 mm (Maximum)

5 mm (Maximum)

8

Boutonniere int6gr(_e en 4 etapes

Largeur: 390 mm (15.4") x Profondeur: 155 mm (6.1") x

Hauteur: 290 mm (11.4")

5.9kg (13.2 Ib)

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Kenmore Sewing Machine Warranty

Fu[[ 25 Year Warranty on Sewing Machine DieoCast Metal Frame

For 25 years from the date of purchase, Sears wil! provide free repair for the die-cast metal frame of this sewing

machine if it is defective in material or workmanship.

Fu[[ 10 Year Warranty on [nternaJ Mechanical Cam ponents

For 10 years from the date of aurcnase. Sears wil arovlae free reoalr for the interna mechanicam components of this

sewing machine f they are defective ir material or worKmansnle. This 10 ]ear warram_ aces noz qcIuae celts, which

are only included in 90 ear warranty described #e!ow.

Fu[[ 2 Year Warranty on Sewing Machine Exterior Components

For 2 years from tne date of ourcnase. Sears wi arovide free reoair for al! components of this sewing macnlne exterior

if they are defective in material or workmanship This 2 _ear warranty aces not inc_uae needle plate or accessory parts,

which are only ncluded in the 90 day warranty described #elow.

Full 2YearWarranty on Electrical Equipment

For 2 years from tne date of ourcnase. Sears wi arovide free repair for the elecmcal equlpmem of this sewing ma-

chine, if any part of it. ncludlng motor, wlrlng, electronic circuitry, switch aria speed control, is defective }n materla Dr

workmanship. This 2 ,ear warrant_, does not Include Hgnt DU!DS. which are on b Included - the 90 day warranty de-

scribed below.

Fuji 90 Day Warranty on Mechanical Adjustments and Specified Parts

For 90 days from the date of aurcnase. Sears _v_ orovlde

* free mechanical ac Jstments necessary for the proper operahon of this sewing macnlne, exce )t for norma machine

care and maintenance as described q the owners manual

, free replacemem of belts, light bulbs, needle pJates and accessory carts if the_ are defective _n matena Dr

workmanship

This 90 day warranty aces not include sewing macnlne needles wn!cn are expendable 9arts

Warranty service is availabJe by returning this sewing machine to the nearest Sears Parts & Repair Center in

the United States

if this sewing macnlne is used for commercial or rema purposes, *varramy service is avauaDie for on y 90 eays from

the date of purchase.

This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights which vary from state to state.

Sears, Roebuck and Co., D/817WA, Hoffman Estates, BL60179 U.S.A.

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SECTION I. NAMES OF PARTS

Cabinets and Sewing Machine Tote Bag ........................ 2

Names of Parts .............................................................. 2

Available Accessories and Attachments ........................ 4

SECTmON H. GETTmNG READYTO SEW

Connecting Machine to Power Supply ........................... 6

Before Using Your Sewing Machine 6

For Your Safety 6

Polarized P!ug ........................................................... 6

Controlling Sewing Seeee 6

Setting Spool Pins 8

Presser Foot L Rer ......................................................... 8

Thread Cutter 8

Accessory Box ............................................................. 8

Extension Table ............................................................ 10

• Detaching the _aele .................................................... 10

• Attaching me ladle 10

Changing Needle ...................................................... 10

To Remove and Attach the =oot Molaer ....................... 10

• To remove .................................................................. 10

• To attach ................................................................. !0

Changing Presser Foot ................................................ 12

• To remove ................................................................ 12

• To attach .................................................................... 12

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Use the Seam Guides .................................................. 32

Turn a Square Corner .................................................. 32

Variable Needle Position .............................................. 34

Topstitching .................................................................. 34

Zipper Sewing ......................................................... 34-38

* Fabric preparation ...................................................... 34

To se,_ ...................................................................... 38

To Drop or Raise the Feed Dogs .................................. 38

Darning ....................................................................... 38

SECTION IV. ZIGZAG STITCH SEWmNG

Basic Zigzag ............................................................. 40

Satin Stitching ........................................................... 40

Monogramming .......................................................... 42

Applique ...................................................................... 42

Bar Tacking .................................................................. 44

Button Sewing ......... 44

Overcasting Stitch ..................................................... 46

Multiple Zigzag Stitch tMode 15408 exclusive) ........... 46

. Seam finishing ............ 46

- Mending .................................................................... 48

SECTION V. UTiLiTY AND DECORATmVE

STITCHES

Blind Hem Stitch Model 15408 exclusive, 48

Lace Work [ V1odeJ 15408 exclusive 48

Presser Foot Types .......................................................

Shel Stitch Model 15408 excluswe ...................... 50

• Zigzag foot ............................... 12

• Sliding buttonno a foot ............................................... 12

• Zipper foot .................................................................. 12

• Straight stitch foot ...................................................... 12

Selecting Needle and Fabric ....................................... la.

Bobbin Winding ............. 18o22

• Removing bobbin case ...................... 18

• Bobbin winding ..................................................... 18o20

• inserting Do_)tn ......................................................... 22

Threading the Machine ................................................ 24

• Threading the machine .............................................. 24

• Drawing up bobbin thread .......................................... 24

Adjust the Needle Thread Tension for a

Straight Stitch ............................................................... 26

• Correct tension .......................................................... 26

• Tension is too tight ..................................................... 26

• Tension is too loose ................................................... 26

• Adjust bobbin tension ................................................ 26

Adjust the Needle Thread Tension for a Zigzag Stitch _. 28

• Correct tension .......................................................... 28

• Tension is too tight ..................................................... 28

• Tension is too loose ................................................... 28

Stitch Pattern Selector ................................................. 30

Stitch Length Dial ......................................................... 30

Stitch Width Dial ........................................................... 30

Reverse Stitch Control ................................................. 30

Decorative Stitch Patterns Mode 15408 exclusive) .... 50

"RA/inNeedle Stitches Oetion'_ 52

SECTION W. BUTTONHOLE

Buttonhole ............................................................ 54-56

• To a%us_ bu_onnole s_t_cn aensl_ 54

• Starting _o se\A ................................................. 54-58

SECTION Vii. CARE OF YOUR MACHINE

Replacing the Light Bulb .............................................. 58

Cleaning the Feed Dogs .............................................. 58

Cleaning the Shuttle Race ........................................... 60

• Cleaning the shuttle area ........................................... 60

Replacing shuttle assembly ....................................... 60

Oiling the Machine ....................................................... 62

• Oil behind the face cover ........................................... 62

• Oil the shuttle area ..................................................... 62

Troubleshooting ............................................................ 64

SECTION HL STRAIGHT STITCH SEWING

Straight Stitch ............................................................... 32

• Starting to sew ........................................................... 32

• Finishing sewing ........................................................ 32

* Please note that some of the sections listed above not related to fundamental operations have been omitted from this manual

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SECTION I. NAMES OF PARTS

Cabinets and Sewing Machine Tote Bag

(RSOS # 97611)

Sewing Machine cabinets and Tote bag are available

through the RSOS (Retail Special Order System) catalog at

your nearest Sears retail store.

Names of Parts

(_ Stitch pattern selector

(_) Reverse stitch control

Stitch pattern setting display

(_ Stitch length dial

(_) Stitch width dial

Bobbin winder spindle

Spool pins

(_) Bobbin winding tension disc

(_ Upper needle thread guide

Thread take-up lever

(_ Thread tension dial

Face cover

(_ Thread cutter

(_) Needle plate

_) Extension table (Accessory box)

{_) Carrying handle

(_ Handwheel

_) Power switch

(_ Machine socket

(_ Free-arm

(_) Presser foot lifter

Presser foot holder

Thumb screw

Presser foot

Needle clamp screw

Needle

Foot control

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Available Accessories and Attachments

To order parts and accessories listed below, call:

1-800-4-MY-HOM E® (1-800-469-4663)

When ordering parts and accessories, provide the following

information:

1. Part Number

2. Part Name

3. Model Number of Machine

Ref. No.

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

2O

21

22

23

24

25

26

27

28

29

3O

31

32

33

Part No.

532096007

647515006

*102869107

*200119102

647018004

735802009

*993001100

*993011100

*993011400

*993011600

*993011800

801506008

611413002

731806001

611511001

*737801015

611406002

611510000

647112009ii ii

000009803

647808009

802424004

820832005

64780300_

*741814003

*200262101

*743815000

*214872011

*940200000

*941620000

*941850000

*940250000

*743813008

*200117100

*620404008

*611411000

033770217

Description

Shuttle hook

Bobbin case

10 x Bobbin

Twin needle

Bobbin winder rubber ring

Assorted needle set

5 x No. 11 stretch fabric needle (BLUE)

5 x No. 11 needle (ORANGE)

5 x No. 14 needle (RED)

5 x No. 16 needle (PURPLE)

5 x No. 18 needle (GREEN)

Needle clamp with screw

Sliding buttonhole foo t

Straight stitch foot

Zigzag foot

Satin stitch foot

zipper fo0t

_!_b s_r_w

Ught bulb

Seam ripper/Buttonho!e opener

Lint brush ......

E_[ge screwdrive_

SmalI screwdriver

Hemmer foot (2ram)

Walking foot

Pin-tuck foot

Ruffler

Binder foot

Ultraglide foot

Cording foot

Embroidery foot

Ovedock foot

Blind hem foot

Foot Control

* These items are not furnished with the machine, but may be

ordered per instructions above.

( • Model 15408 exclusive)

To order additional parts not listed above for a do-it-

yourself repair:

1. Using the Internet, type in "www3.sears.com" to reach

the Sears Parts Web site.

2. Follow the prompts, and enter your sewing machine

model number.You can find your sewing machine model

number on the back of your machine, on the

Nomenclaure Plate. Enter the first eight digits of this

number, followed by an asterisk (example: 385.15408*).

iiiiiii!

f

1

5

14

18m

/

*22

2

6

*3

*7 ¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸¸8

-x

*4

\

15 16 17

13m

19 20 •

*30 "31 *32

\

33

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SECTION II. GETTING READYTO SEW

Connecting Machine to Power Supply

(_ Power supply plug

(_) Power switch

(_) Outlet

@ Machine socket

@ Machine plug

@ Sewing light

Before connecting the power cord. make sure the voltage

and frequency shown on the machine conform to your

electrical power.

1. Turn off the power switch (_).

2. Insert the machine plug _ into the machine socket 4_.

3. Insert the power supply plug _ into the outlet 3.

4. Turn the power switch _ to activate the 0ower and

sewing light@.

Before Using Your Sewing Machine

Before using your sewing machine for the first time. place a

waste fabric under the presser foot and run the machine

with thread for a few minutes. W pe away any oil which may

appear.

For Your Safety

* While in operation, always keep your eyes on the sewing

area. Do not touch any moving parts such as the thread

take-up lever, handwheel or needle.

* Always turn off the power switch and unplug from the

power supply:

- When leaving the machine unattended

- When attaching or removing any parts

- When cleaning the machine

* Do not place anything on the foot control, wnen not

sewing.

Polarized Plug

This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than

the other). To reduce the risk of an electric shock, this plug

is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the

plug does not fit in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does

not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper

outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

Foot Controller Model YC-482J or TJC-150 is used with

Sewing Machine Model 385.15202 and 15408.

Controlling Sewing Speed

Sewing speed can be varied by the foot control.

The harder you press on the foot control, the faster the

machine runs.

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Setting Spool Pins

_) Spool pin

The spool pins are used for holding the spools of thread

when feeding the thread to the machine.

To use, pull up the spool pins. Push down for storage.

Presser Foot Lifter

(_) Presser foot lifter

(_ Normal up position

@ Highest position

The presser foot lifter raises and lowers the presser foot.

You can raise t about 1/4" (0.6 cm) higher than the normal

up position for easy removal of the presser foot. or to help

place heavy fabric under the foot.

Thread Cutter

(_ Thread cutter

You do not need a pair of scissors to cut threads after

sewing. Simply use the built-in thread cutter.

Accessory Box

Open the cover of the accessory box toward you. The

sewing accessories are conveniently located in the box.

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Extension Table

• Detaching the table

Pull the table away from the machine, as illustrated, for

"free-arm" sewing of cuffs and sleeves.

• Attaching the table

Push the extension table until it snaps into the machine.

(_) Extension table

(_) Pin

(_ Holes

@ Tab

(_) Free-arm

Changing Needle

(_ Needle clamp screw

(_) Needle clamp

[_Turn off the power switch.

Raise the needle to its highest position by turning the

handwheel counterclockwise, toward you. and lowering

the presser foot. Loosen the needle clamp screw_by

turning it counterclockwise. Remove the needle from the

needle clamp (_).

[] insert a new needle nto the needle clamp@with the

flat side to the rear. When inserting the needle into the

needle clamp (_), push it up as far as it goes. Tighten

the needle clamp screw 1_ firmly by turning it clockwise.

[] To see if the needle is good, place the fiat side of the

needle onto something flat (e.g needle plate or glass).

The gap between the needle and the flat surface should

be consistent. Never use a bent or blunt needle.

A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs

in knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics.

To Remove and Attach the Foot Holder

_i_ Thumb screw

_2_Foot holder

_3_Presser bar

• To remove

Remove the thumb screw _1_by turning it counterclock-

wise with a screwdriver.

• To attach

Match the hole in the foot holder _2_with the threaded

hole in the presser bar _3_. Fit the thumb screw _i_ into

the hole. Tighten the screw _1_by turning it clockwise with

screwdriver.

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=lat side

_ado Diane Needle

',4eclat Aguja

Aiguille

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Changing Presser Foot

(_) Lever

_)Groove

®Pin

• To remove

Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the needle to its

highest position. Raise the presser foot.

Press the lever (_)on the back of the foot holder. The

presser foot will drop off.

• To attach

Place the presser foot so that the pin _on the foot lines

up directly below the groove _ of the foot holder.

Lower the foot holder to lock the foot in 01ace.

Presser Foot Types

• Zigzag foot

Use this foot for both straight and zigzag stitching.

For: Straight stitch (page 32)

Topstitching (page 34)

Basic zigzag (page 40_

Satin stitching (page 40_

Monogramming (page 42)

Applique (page 42)

Bar tacking (page 44)

Button sewing [page 44_

Overcasting stitch (page 46)

* Multiple zigzag stitch (page 46_

* Blind hem stitch (page 48_

* Lace work (,page 48_

* Shell stitch (page 50_

* Decorative stitch patterns (page 50_

Twin needle stitch [page 52_

(*Model 15408 exclusive)

• Sliding buttonhole foot

Use this foot for manual buttonhole making. It is marked

to help you measure a buttonhole accurately.

For: Buttonhole sewing (page 54)

• Zipper foot (Model 15408 exclusive)

The edge of the foot guides the zipper and keeps the

seam straight.

For:Zipper sewing (page 34)

• Straight stitch foot (Model 15408 exclusive)

Use this foot exclusively for straight stitching with the

center needle position.

For: Straight stitch (page 32)

Topstitching (page 34)

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Selecting Needle and Fabric

For general sewing, use needle sizes 11 or 14. A fine thread and needle should be

used for sewing lightweight fabrics, so the fabric will not be marred. Heavy fabrics

require a needle large enough to pierce the fabric without fraying the needle thread.

In the needle set, there is one each of sizes 11, 14, 16, and 18, and a blue needle.

Use the blue needle to eliminate skipped stitches when sewing knits and synthetic

fabrics.

Special needles should be used on certain fabrics. A dentm needle with a sharp tip

effectively pierces dense fabrics such as denim and canvas. For topstitching, s

special topstitching needle with a targer eye accommodates heavier weight thread

Leather needles punch small holes n leather and suede, allowing the thread to

follow through the hole.

Check your needles frequently for rough or blunt tips. Snags and runs in <nits. fine

silks and silk-like fabrics are permanent, and are often caused by damag ad

needles.

Always purchase a good quality thread. It should be strong, smooth and consistent

in thickness.

f

WEIGHT FABRIC TYPE OF NEEDLE NEEDLE SIZE

Chiffon, Georgette, Fine Lace, Organdy, Organdy Universal 9 (65)

Very Light Net, Tulle Ball Point 9 (65)

Batiste, Voile, Lawn, Pure Silk, Crepe de Chine, Orange 11 (75)

Sheer Crepe, Chambray, Handkerchief Linen, Blue 11 (75)

Gingham, Challis, Percale, Wool Crepe, Peau de Sole, 12 (80)

Taffeta, Satin, Silk Surah, Satin-backed Crepe,

Light Qiana

Blue 11 (75)

Single Knits, Jersey, Swimwear, Tricot Ball Point 11 (75)

Wedge Point Leather 11 (75)

Flannel, Velour, Velvet, Muslin, Velveteen, Poplin,

Corduroy, Broadcloth, Linen, Chintz, Gabardine, Felt, Red 14 (90)

Terry, Burlap, Quilted Fabrics

Medium Double Knits, (synthetic and natural) Stretch

Velour,

Stretch Terry, Ball Point 14 (90)

Sweater Knits

Leather, Vinyl, Suede Wedge Point Leather 14 (90)

Denim, Sailcloth, Ticking Denim 16 (100)

Double Faced Wool, Heavy Coating, Fake Fur, Purple 16 (100)

Heavy Drapery Fabrics

Leather, Suede Wedge Point Leather 16 (100)

Canvas, Duck, Upholstery Fabrics Green 18 (110)

11 (75)

All Topstitching for Special Finish Topstitching 14 (90)

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Bobbin Winding

• Removing bobbin case

Remove the extension table from the machine by pulling

it to the left. Open the shuttle cover(_by pulling down

the embossed part on the left of the cover.

Raise the needle to its highest position by rotating the

handwheel toward you.

(_) Shuttle cover

(_) Bobbin case

To remove the bobbin case _ from the shuttle Dull open

the latch of the bobbin case. Pull the bobbin case straight

out of the shuttle.

• Bobbin winding

[] Release the clutch by pulling out the handwheel. This

will stop the needle from moving while you wind the

bobbin.

[] Draw thread from the spool.

[] Guide the thread around the thread guide.

[_Thread through the hole in the bobbin from the inside to

the outside.

[] Put the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle.

[]

\

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[] []

[]

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Bobbin winding (continued)

[] Push the bobbin to the right.

[_With the free end of the thread held in your hand,

depress the foot control. Stop the machine when the

bobbin has made a few turns, and cut the thread close

to the hole in the bobbin.

[]

[] Depress the foot control again. When the bobbin s fully

wound, it stops automatically. Return the bobbin winder

to its original position by moving the spindle to the left.

and cut the thread.

[] Push in the handwheel to engage the clutch

* The machine does not function until the clutch is

engaged.

NOTE:

The position of the bobbin winder stopper is adjustable

depending on required amount of thread on bobbin

(i.e. 1/2 full or full). Use a screwdriver and loosen the

screw one turn or less. Do not take the screw all the way

out. Adjust the position of the bobbin winder stopper.

Retighten the screw.

[]

r

[]

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• Inserting bobbin

[] Place a bobbin in the bobbin case, making sure the

thread feeds clockwise from the bobbin.

[] Draw the thread through the slot of the case.

[]

[] Continue to draw the thread under the tension spring

and through the opening.

Pull out about 4" (10 cm) of thread.

(_ Tension spring

[] Holding the latch _ open, insert the bobbin case into

the shuttle so that the bobbin case prong (_ fits into the

shuttle slot (_.

(_) Latch

(_) Bobbin case prong

(_) Shuttle slot

[] Release latch. Bobbin case will lock into place.

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Threading the Machine

• Threading the machine

* Raise the thread take-up lever to its highest position by

turning the handwheel counterclockwise.

* Raise the presser foot lifter.

* Place a spool on the spool pin, with thread coming off as

shown.

[] Draw the end of thread around the upper thread guide.

[_While holding the thread near the spool, draw the end of

the thread down around the check spnng holder

[] Firmly draw the thread up and from right to left over the

take-up lever then down into the take-up lever eye.

[_ Slide the thread behind the needle bar thread guide or"

the left.

E_Thread the needle from front to back.

• Drawing up bobbin thread

[] Raise the presser foot. Hold the needle thread lightly

with your left hand.

[] Rotate the handwheel counterclockwise, toward you, for

one complete turn. Bring the bobbin thread up by pulling

the needle thread up.

[] Pull both threads 4" to 6" (10.0 to 15.0 cm) under and

behind the presser foot.

f

\% .[]

S

_2;

[]

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Adjust the Needle Thread Tension for a Straight

Stitch

• Correct tension

(_ Needle thread (Top thread)

(_ Bobbin thread (Bottom thread)

@ To loosen

(_ To tighten

The idealstraightstitchhas threads locked between two

layersoffabric as illustrated[magnified to show detaih.

Ifyou look at the top and bottom of a seam noticethat

there are no gaps. Each stitchissmooth and even.

When adjustingthe needle thread tension,the higher the

number, the tighterthe needle thread tension.

Results depend on:

- stiffnessand thickness ofthe fabric

- number of fabriclayers

- type of stitch

•Tension is too tight

_) Needle thread (Top thread)

(_ Bobbin thread (Bottom thread,

(_) To loosen

(_ Right side (Top side) of fabric

@ Wrong side (Bottom slde_ of fabric

If the bobbin thread shows through on the right side (Top

side) of the fabric, and the stitch feels bumpy, turn the dial

to a lower tension setting number to loosen the needle

thread tension.

• Tension is too loose

<_ Needle thread (Toe thread)

Bobbin thread (Bottom thread_

@ To tighten

(_ Right side (Top side) of fabric

@ Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric

If the needle thread shows through on the wrong side

(Bottom side) of the fabric, and the stitch feels bumpy, turn

the dial to a higher tension setting number to tighten the

needle thread tension.

• Adjust bobbin tension

(_)Adjusting screw

(_)lncrease tension

@ Decrease tension

NOTE:

Small screwdriver is not furnished with model 15202, but

may be ordered. (page 4)

In some instances, you may need to adjust the bobbin

thread tension.

Turn the adjusting screw _)in the direction of @when the

bobbin thread tension is too tight.

Turn the adjusting screw(_)in the direction of(_when the

bobbin thread tension is too loose.

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Adjust the Needle Thread Tension for a Zigzag

Stitch

For an ideal zigzag stitch, the bobbin thread does not show

on the right side (Top side) of the fabric and needle thread

shows slightly on the wrong side (Bottom side) of the

fabric.

See the illustrations for correct appearance.

To match this appearance, adjust the needle tension.

• Correct tension

(_ Right side (Top side) of fabric

(_) Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric

Minimize the amount of needle thread visible on the

wrong side (Bottom side) of the fabric without causing

excessive puckering or causing bobbin thread to show on

the right side (Top side) of the fabric

Results vary with fabric thread and sewing condition

• Tension is too tight

(_ Right side (Top side) of fabric

(_ Wrong side (Bottom side, of fabric

The corner of each zigzag pulls together on the right side

(Top side) of fabric.

• Tension is too loose

(_) Right side (Top side) of fabric

(_) Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric

Corner of each zigzag pulls together on the wrong side

(Bottom side) of fabric.

1D 2D

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Kenmore 385.15408 User manual

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