Model 1000 Troubleshooting Guide
Page 1
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o The 1000 was manufactured in 3 locations. The version made by Well has several unique parts.
o Always perform initial inspections including visual, current and airflow (Figure A) tests before servicing a heater.
o Check the AC cord, wires and plugs, for cut, pinched or exposed wires, secure connection and proper location.
o NEVER touch the glass portion of a heating element. Always visually inspect the elements and perform a resistance test.
o The heating elements are wired in 3 parallel circuits and are suggested to be replaced in pairs for this reason. (Figure B)
o This heater utilizes wire caps instead of wiring blocks. Always use new wire caps and make sure all wires and caps are
secure and that no portion of the wires are exposed.
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o Current: 12.5 – 14 amps in “HIGH” mode
o Airflow: 640+ FPM
o Power: 1500 Watts
o Heating Elements (Bulbs): 14Ω +/- 5% (13.3Ω – 14.7Ω)
o Heat Rise: 140° (over ambient temperature)
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o Check (in order)
1. Heat sensor (high limit switch)
2. Inspect the wiring and cables and their connections including the AC cord, its ground and the power switch.
o If the heater turns on then, immediately off, inspect/calibrate/replace the thermostat.
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o Remove the leads to the high limit switch and perform a continuity test. If any resistance, replace.
o Visually inspect the heating elements and their connections. Turn on the heater and look for non-working elements.
o Test the resistance of the heating elements. They should measure 14Ω +/- 5% (13.3Ω – 14.7Ω).
o Replace the bulb if the glass or the ceramic ends are cracked or broken, overly discolored, if the quartz element appears to be
damaged or if the wire insulation is excessively whitened (more than 1/4”) near the bulb. (FIGURE F)
o Test the unit with a new thermostat.
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o Check the fan to make sure the fan is spinning freely and the bearings/motor are not making any excessive noise.
o Visually inspect the fan for built up dust and dirt. Clean it with a soft-bristled brush and vacuum.
o Test/replace the fan sensor.
o Test/replace the high limit switch.
o Check the heating elements, their wiring and/or connections. Shorted wires could cause a element to get power even when
the heater is off.
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o Visually inspect the fan to make sure it is properly mounted and the fan blades are free of dust build-up. Clean the fan with a
soft bristled brush and vacuum if needed.
o If the fan continues to make noise, the motor or bearings may be bad and the fan assembly will need to be replaced.
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Model 1000 Troubleshooting Guide
Page 2
(FIGURE A) AIRFLOW TESTING (FIGURE B) BULB PAIRING AND WIRING CAP LOCATION.
(All rear wire caps are between the two rear steel panels. You may
need to remove the top and/or back panel to get to them.)
(FIGURE C) LARGE WIRING BLOCK
(Wire colors may vary. Colors for reference purposes only.)
(Figure D) LEFT VIEW OF BULB PAIRING AND POWER SWITCH
(Figure F) Below is an example of a heating element that may have failed. Notice the whitening of the wires where they enter
the ceramic end caps. It is recommended that bulbs with this extent (approximately 1/4”) of whitening (and the corresponding
paired bulb) should be replaced even if they test okay as their life expectancy could be diminished.
LOCATION COMPONENT / WIRE COLOR
REAR WIRE
CAP
AC NEUTRAL
POWER SWITCH
RIGHT SIDE TOP 3 BULBS
FAN SWITCH
REAR WIRE
CAP
AC LINE
FAN
POWER SWITCH
REAR WIRE
CAP
POWER SWITCH
TOP THERMOSTAT
REAR WIRE
CAP
HIGH LIMIT
BOTTOM THERMOSTAT
RIGHT SIDE
WIRE CAP
FRONT BULB
BOTTOM LEFT BULB
BOTTOM RIGHT BULB
HIGH LIMIT
RIGHT SIDE FAN SWITCH TO FAN
LEFT SIDE
WIRE CAP
TOP BULB
FRONT BULB
LEFT SIDE
WIRE CAP
BOTTOM LEFT BULB
MIDDLE LEFT BULB
LEFT SIDE
WIRE CAP
BOTTOM RIGHT BULB
MIDDLE RIGHT BULB
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