Woodcraft, 406 Airport Industrial Park Road, P.O. Box 1686, Parkersburg, WV 26102-1686
© 2008 by Woodcraft, LLC. “Helping You Make Wood Work” is a registered trademark of Woodcraft, LLC.
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77C58
12/15/08
5" Serrated Steak Knife Kit
Warning
These blades come pre-sharpened and you must cover the blade
to protect yourself from being cut while working on the handles.
Tape the blade with several layers of heavy masking tape from
the tip all along the cutting edge.
Knife Handles
The knife handles or “scales” can be made from any quality hard-
wood. Hard, tight grained woods are easier to polish and resist
damage better than soft woods. You will need two pieces at least
3/16" thick x 1" wide x 5" long.
Determine the side of each scale that will face out and be seen.
Mark the opposite side which will face the tang (face in) portion
of the knife blade. Lay the tang of the blade on one of the handle
scales, on the side of the scale marked in the previous step, and
trace around the tang and pin holes. Trace the other scale in the
same manner.
Drill the pin holes previously marked in the handle blanks on the
drill press using a 1/8" brad point bit. Use a backer board under
the handle blank to prevent tear out on the underside.
Using a scroll saw, band saw, or coping saw cut the tang’s outline
from both scale blanks. Cut to the outside of the traced lines. Us-
ing 120 grit sandpaper lightly sand the sides of the scales which
will contact the tang.
The outside edges of the scales which will face the blade tip
must be shaped, sanded and polished at this time. After the
scales are glued to the knife tang you will not be able to sand
these areas without marring the tang and blade. Shape these
edges to suit your profile, sand from 120 through 400 grit, and
polish using a buffing wheel and red rouge polishing compound.
Only this small area on both scales needs to be shaped and
polished at this time.
Handle Pins
Cut three 1" long pins for each knife from 1/8" diameter brass
rod. To help prevent splitting the scales and to make installation
easier, slightly bevel one end of each pin on a sander or with a
fine file. Because the forward hole on the knife blank is slightly
undersized you need to pre-size the pins for these holes. Drive
the one of the pins approximately half way through the front hole
in the blade, the tap it back out. Keep track of this pin so you can
be sure to identify it when you are assembling the knife.
Assembly
Clean the tang and the tang side of the scales with acetone. Tap
all three pins bevel down through one scale from the side that
will face out, making sure the pre-fit pin from the last step is in
the front hole. Mix enough epoxy to evenly coat both sides of the
tang and pins. Position both scales on the knife blade blank and
tap the pins through all three parts starting with the forward pin.
Clamp the scales to the tang (do not over clamp) and clean off
any glue squeeze out using a rag and acetone. Allow the glue to
dry overnight.
Shaping the Handles
After the epoxy has thoroughly dried, remove the clamps and
begin contouring and shaping the handle. First file or sand the
brass pins flush with a file or stationary belt sander. Be careful not
to cut into the scale. Files and rasps or sanding drums can be
used to rough in the handle shape, round over the edges and fit
the scales to the outside of the tang. Final shaping and sand-
ing should be done by hand with sandpaper. Do not remove too
much material from the thickness, concentrate on contouring the
edges and matching the tang profile.
Finish sanding starting at 220 grit and progressing through the
grits to 400. Polish the handle with a buffing wheel and red rouge
polishing compound.
Product #149176