Rayburn Heatranger 216SFW User Instructions

Brand: Rayburn

Model: Heatranger 216SFW

Category: Power tools

Type: User Instructions

The user should obtain confirmation from the installer that

the chimney is of sound airtight construction, is clear of

obstructions and has been swept before installation.

The Rayburn 216SFW has been designed to burn a

variety of solid fuels to provide heating facilities for

cooking, domestic hot water and central heating.

The cooker and water temperatures are manually

controlled by the spinwheel on the front of the ashpit

door.

This appliance has been tested using manufactured

briquetted smokeless fuel (Ancit) and wood logs for

closed appliances sized between 20g and 140g. Other

fuels are commercially available and may give similar

results.

WARNING: HOT SURFACES, use the tool supplied to

operate the appliance. It is recommended to use the

heatproof glove supplied when raising the dome lids to

use the hotplate. Replacement glove can be obtained

from the AGA Shop.

06/14 EOPI 514411

[email protected]

IMPORTANT

This cooker is intended to run

in a continuously alight condition

at all times, at low fire rate

when idling, unless

servicing is

required.

WARNING

THE ASHPIT DOOR AND FIREBOX DOORS MUST

BE LOCKED CLOSED AT ALL TIMES DURING

NORMAL USE, EXCEPT WHEN LIGHTING OR

RE-FUELLING

INTRODUCTION

Users Instructions for

Rayburn 216SFW

Multi-Fuel Cooker

Consumer Protection

As responsible manufacturers we take care to make sure that our

products are designed and constructed to meet the required safety

standards when properly installed and used.

IMPORTANT NOTICE : PLEASE READ THE ACCOMPANYING

WARRANTY. Any alteration that is not approved by AGA could

invalidate the approval of the appliance, operation of the warranty

and could affect your statutory rights. Use only authorised

replacement parts.

All local regulations including those referring to National and

European standards need to be complied with when installing

the appliance.

Important

This appliance could contain any of the materials that are indicated

below, it is the Users/Installers responsibility to ensure that the

necessary personal protective clothing is worn when handling, where

applicable, the pertinent parts that contain any of the listed materials

that could be interpreted as being injurious to health and safety, see

below for information.

Firebricks – when handling use disposable gloves.

Fire Cement – when handling use disposable gloves.

Glues and Sealants – exercise caution – if these are still in liquid

form use face mask and disposable gloves.

Glass Yarn, Mineral Wool, Insulation Pads, Kerosene Oil – may

be harmful if inhaled, may be irritating to skin, eyes, nose and throat.

When handling avoid inhaling and contact with skin or eyes. Use

disposable gloves, face-masks and eye protection. After handling

wash hands and other exposed parts. When disposing of the

product, reduce dust with water spray, ensure that parts are securely

wrapped.

Provision must be made for additional ventilation. A

permanent unobstructed air vent having a minimum

effective area of 22cm

must communicate to outside air

or an adjacent room which in turn has a permanent vent

of at least the same size to outside air.

If a flue draught stabiliser is fitted in the flue this vent size

must be increased to a minimum 49cm

minimum. If this

appliance is used with an additional appliance of a similar

type then the air supply must be adequate for both

appliances in accordancr with Building Regulations.

Any air inlet grilles must be maintained so that they are

free from blockage.

OVEN DOOR OPERATION - SEE FIG. 1

To open the doors. Twist the handle slightly to lift up the

door catch from the locking spindle and pull the door

open.

To close the doors. Gently push the door shut until the

door catch makes contact with the locking spindle.

FIRE DOOR/ASHPIT DOOR OPERATION

The fire door and ashpit door are kept closed by a turn

screw. A tool is supplied to operate these when hot and

they can be adjusted to ensure both these doors close

lightly. IT IS IMPORTANT TO ENSURE PROPER

CLOSURE OF THESE DOORS TO PREVENT

OVERFIRING.

DOOR OPERATION

DESN 512979

DESN 514177

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

GENERAL

Fig. 3 Summer Use Domestic Hot Water Only

Fig. 4 Winter Use Domestic Hot Water and Heating

Fig. 5 Firebrick Fitting

Firebrick Positions and Replacement

The Rayburn is delivered complete including a set of

boiler removable firebricks where positional location

determines the amount of hot water supplied in winter and

summer seasons. The oven side and firebox firebricks

are permanently fixed with fire cement whilst the two

boiler side bricks are located for the summer season

thereby providing domestic hot water only.

For winter use or central heating facilities, the boiler face

side bricks are removed. See Figs 3, 4 and 5.

The front plate protection firebrick is held in position by a

retaining rib on the boiler side. The firebricks are not

attached with fire cement and can be removed and

refitted quite simply. See Fig. 5.

The firebricks fitted to Rayburn cookers are of first quality

manufacture, and providing the cooker has been installed

and used correctly will have a reasonable life.

They are however, expendable items and in time will

require renewal, The renewal of firebricks is not a major

operation and can be carried out by the average

handyman. The boiler side firebricks are supported on a

frame on the boilers sides and are held in position by a

retaining toggle at the top.

Replacement bricks either in sets or singly can be

obtained from your Rayburn stockist. Quote the serial

number which will be found on a data plate fixed to the

appliance. Do not force out the firebricks, they may

become brittle after firing.

Secondary Air Adjustment

When converting from solid fuel to woodburning, the

secondary air calibration will require changing from a 6

aeration hole plate to an 8 hole plate. See Fig. 6.

This is done by simply unscrewing the chrome caps and

removing two screws.

Fig. 6

RECOMMENDED SOLID FUELS

Manufactured: Phurnacite Plus, Supacite, Coalite Nuts,

Maxibrite, Phurnacite, Sunbrite Doubles, Extracite,

Blazebrite, Taybrite, Coke.

Natural: Anthracite Large and Small Nuts, Selected

Housecoal (Trebles/Large Nuts and Doubles/Nuts).

WARNING: PETROLEUM COKE MUST NOT BE USED.

Oversize fuel lumps should be broken down to size.

Stones and other foreign bodies should be removed when

fuelling.

Fuels should be stored under cover, particularly

manufactured fuels which must be kept dry. Wet kitchen

refuse should not be burned.

Fuelling with Wood or Peat

The cooker will satisfactorily burn wood logs, blocks or

peat briquettes, but the logs should be perfectly dry in

order to obtain the best cooker performance and minimise

the deposits of creosote. Wood logs may also provide

overnight banking and the following hints are

recommended:-

a. Burn dry soft wood in the day time and dry hard wood

overnight if possible.

b. Avoid using ‘green’ wood on overnight banking as

creosote deposits will be increased.

c. Using hard wood in the day time will give prolonged

burning but heating response will be slower.

d. Before refuelling, open the flue chamber damper to its

full extent and fill the firebox up to the bottom of the

firedoor opening.

Fig. 7 Familiarise Yourself with the Cooker

LIGHTING THE FIRE

e) Remove ashpan, empty and replace (Fig. 9)

f) Open flue chamber damper to maximum (Fig. 10).

g) Flue dilution lever fully to ‘left’ (flue chamber door

closed, Fig. 10).

h) Lay a liberal supply of wood and paper on top of the

bottomgrate bars together with a small quantity of fuel

and light.

i) Close and lock the ashpit door with the spinwheel

control open.

j) Close and lock the firedoor.

k) With fire established, open firebox door and fill firebox

with fuel. Check secondary air slide setting (Fig. 11).

Close and lock firebox door. Push flue chamber

damper back to position which has been found to give

desired burning rate.

All Fuels Using a Gas Poker

a) Check the flue pipe is free of blockage.

b) Open firebox door.

c) Open ashpit box.

d) De-ash (Fig. 8) dead fuel from bottomgrate, rake fuel

into ashpan. Insert flat bayonet type gas poker on top

of bottomgrate bars.

e) Remove ashpan, and empty (Fig. 9).

f) Open flue chamber damper to maximum (Fig. 10).

g) Flue dilution lever fully ‘left’. (flue chamber door

closed, Fig. 10).

h) Lay a 75-100mm (3ins-4ins) shallow depth of fuel onto

the bottomgrate and light with gas poker.

i) Close the ashpit and firebox doors as far as possible -

spinwheel control open.

j) When the fuel is well alight, extinguish and remove the

gas poker, replace the clinker door and ashpan, close

and lock the ashpit door with the spinwheel control

open, close the firedoor.

k) With the fire established, open the firebox door and fill

firebox with fuel. Close and lock the firebox door.

Push the flue chamber damper back to position which

has been found to give best results. Set spinwheel to

give desired burning rate.

NOTE: IF THERE IS DEAD FUEL IN THE GRATE,

DROP THE BOTTOMGRATE TO REMOVE THE FUEL

UNLESS A GAS POKER IS GOING TO BE USED - SEE

UNDER ‘TO DUMP THE GRATE’.

All Fuels Using Wood and Paper

a) Check the flue pipe is free of blockage.

b) Open firebox door.

c) Open ashpit door.

d) De-ash (Fig. 8) and remove dead fuel from

bottomgrate, rake fuel into ashpan.

FUELLING

1. The ashpit door spinwheel does not require to be open

for more than:-

a)Coke - Five complete turns

b)Other recommended fuels - Three complete turns

during cooking period.

2. Ensure the chimney damper is fully open prior to

refuellng.

3. With the firedoor only open, fill the firebox to the

recommended level of the bottom firedoor opening

(not above) and close the firedoor. A deep bed of

newly charged fuel on a low fire will take time before

the heat reaches the oven, hotplate and boiler. When

burning coal or Anthracite, allow several minutes for

the new charge to ignite before changing the damper

setting.

4. Once refuelling has been completed, close the

firedoor immediately and open only for re-fuelling.

CONTROL

Fig. 10

Fig. 8

Fig. 9

Fig. 11

The fire is controlled by using the spinwheel on the ashpit

door to govern air supply. The chimney damper in the flue

chamber is for reducing the chimney draught, and the

more the damper can be closed the easier the cooker is

to control. It is marked to enable you to repeat the best

settings you find suits your chimney No.1 is closed

position and No.6 when fully open.

Do not try to obtain a quick increase in temperature by

opening the chimney damper to its full extent. This results

in most of the heat being wasted up the chimney.

Avoid excessive fire temperatures with solid fuel - they

are not necessary and may do serious harm to the

cooker. The first sign that the cooker is being overheated

is the formation of clinker (melted ash), and clinker will

damage the firebricks. Damaged firebricks should be

repaired with fire cement or if necessary replaced as soon

as possible.

Keep the ashpit door securely closed with screw

catch provided.

Main Oven

The correct adjustment of the spinwheel damper to obtain

the oven temperature required varies with the chimney

draught, and can be found only by experiment. The

following is a suggested method only, and may need

modification to suit local conditions. Suppose an oven

temperature for roasting is desired and the cooker is

idling.

Thoroughly de-ash the fire as described in the ‘Riddling’

paragraph, and refuel. Set the chimney damper to No. 3

setting and open the spinwheel as described under item

1 of ‘Fuelling’. As soon as the fire has become nicely red

all through, close the chimney damper. Do not allow the

fire to become white hot. The temperature of the oven

should now rise steadily. When it reaches a point about

30ºC (50ºF) below that required, close the spinwheel to

approximately one turn open. Thereafter control the

temperature of the oven by adjusting the spinwheel.

OVEN TEMPERATURE

HOT

MODERATE

SLOW

200º-260ºC (400º-500ºF)

150º-200ºC (300º-400ºF)

90º-150ºC (200º-300ºF)

NOTE: THIS METHOD SHOULD PROVE

SUCCESSFUL IN ALMOST ALL CASES, BUT IF

CLOSING THE CHIMNEY DAMPER CAUSES THE

FIRE TO SMOKE, IT SHOULD BE OPENED

GRADUALLY UNTIL THE SMOKING STOPS.

The Warming Oven

The oven is primarily intended for heating plates and

keeping food warm. As a guide this warming oven is just

less than half the temperature of the main oven.

NOTE: THE DOORS SHOULD NOT BE SLAMMED

SHUT, OR THIS WILL WEAR AWAY THE METAL

RETAINER CATCHES.

The Hotplate

It is recommended to use the heatproof glove supplied

when raising the dome lids to use the hotplate.

Replacement glove can be obtained from the AGA Shop.

The best results can only be obtained by using machine

base utensils. The hottest part of the hotplate is

immediately above the fire, the other end is for

simmering.

The plug in the hotplate at the flue chamber end is for flue

cleaning and should not be removed for cooking or when

the cooker is fired.

NOTE: IN ORDER TO OBTAIN AN OPTIMUM HOT

PLATE PERFORMANCE FOR FAST BOILING OR HOT

PLATE COOKING, FUEL THE FIREBOX TO THE

BOTTOM EDGE OF THE FULLING APERTURE TO A

HORIZONTAL LEVEL.

WARNING: THE COOKER TOP PLATE SURFACE

AROUND THE HOTPLATE WILL BECOME HOT UNDER

USE AND CARE MUST BE OBSERVED. PLEASE

REFER TO THE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

REGARDING MINIMUM CLEARANCES TO

COMBUSTIBLE SURFACES AND MATERIALS.

OVERNIGHT BURNING

Wood

The cooker is designed for continuous slumbering

overnight up to a maximum of 12 hours depending on the

type of dry wood being used.

Last thing at night, open the chimney damper, riddle the

fire, empty the ashpan and refuel as described under

“Fuelling”. Ensure that the ashpit door is securely

closed, spinwheel is closed and opened a 1/4 turn and

the damper is closed to its No.1 setting.

Turn the pivoted dilution lever (on the bottom front flue

chamber door) Fig. 9 from left to right hand side so that

the door opens at the bottom and minimises the burning

rate and chimney condensation.

NOTE: THE PRECISE AMOUNT OF OPENING

DEPENDS ON THE CHIMNEY DRAUGHT AND MAY

TAKE 2 OR 3 DAYS TO ASCERTAIN IN CONJUNCTION

WITH THE TYPE/CONDITION OF WOOD BEING

BURNT.

1. If the fuel in the firebox is exhausted prematurely, the

overnight chimney draught must be reduced by further

opening of the flue chamber door.

2. If the fuel does not burn but ‘dies out’ the draught

should be increased by partly closing the flue chamber

door. In the morning, close the flue chamber door,

open the spinwheel and damper and fuel the fire.

Immediately the new fuel has caught alight, riddle the

fire and close the damper.

NOTE: BUILD-UP OF CREOSOTE DEPOSITS IN THE

FLUE AND CHIMNEY CAN IN TIME, LEAD TO

CHIMNEY FIRES. THESE DEPOSITS CAN BE

PREVENTED BY THE REGULAR USE OF A

PROPRIETARY BRAND OF CHEMICAL CREOSOTE

REMOVER CHIMNEY CLEANER SUCH AS ”ATTACK”

WHICH REDUCES THE ADHESION STRENGTH OF

THE CREOSOTE DEPOSITS, CAUSING THEM TO

FALL.

IMPORTANT: CHEMICAL CLEANERS MUST NOT BE

CONSIDERED AS AN ALTERNATIVE TO CHIMNEY

SWEEPING, ONLY AS SUPPLEMENTARY.

DO NOT CARRY OUT THIS OPERATION WITH THE

FIRE ALIGHT.

Solid Fuel

The cooker is designed for continuous burning and the

best results will only be obtained if it is allowed to burn

overnight. It is no more expensive in fuel. Last thing at

night open the chimney damper, riddle the fire, empty the

ashpan and refuel. Do not overload. Ensure that the

ashpit door is securely closed. Close the spinwheel

and reopen it a quarter of a turn.

THE BEST POSITION FOR THE CHIMNEY DAMPER

CAN BE FOUND ONLY BY EXPERIMENT, BUT FOR A

START TRY CLOSING IT TO No. 1 SETTING.

In the morning, open the spinwheel and damper and

riddle the fire. When it is burning, close damper, if the

hotplate is required immediately, lightly refuel before use.

EXCEPTIONS: WHEN BURNING ANTHRACITE OR

PHURNACITE ALWAYS REFUEL BEFORE EMPTYING

ASHPAN AND RIDDLING.

Open the chimney damper to its full extent and the ashpit

door. Engage the operating tool into the riddling lever

which projects through the ashpan front and push/pull the

lever in a back and forth motion to de-ash.

ALWAYS DE-ASH BEFORE REFUELLING (SEE

‘EXCEPTIONS’ BELOW AT THE FOLLOWING

INTERVALS).

SUMMER USE: Three times daily at least.

WINTER USE: Three time daily at least and more often if

required.

NOTE: SHOULD THE BOTTOMGRATE DE-ASHING

FAIL TO CLEAR AN ACCUMULATION OF STONES,

SHALE OR CLINKER, IT MAY BE REMOVED AS

DESCRIBED IN SECTION ‘REMOVAL OF CLINKER’.

Open the ashpit door to give access to the ashpan which

must be emptied regularly (See Fig. 9). In winter, this may

be more than three times daily depending on weather

severity. The class of fuel and cooker usage govern the

frequency of refuelling.

NOTE: DO NOT ALLOW ASH TO ACCUMULATE IN

THE ASHPAN UNTIL IT TOUCHES THE UNDERSIDE

OF THE BOTTOMGRATE BARS OR THEY WILL

QUICKLY BURN OUT.

Ensure the ashpan is fully home otherwise the ashpit

door may not close and lock completely.

Clinker Removal - ‘To Dump the Grate’.

1. Open the ashpit door and remove ashpan.

2. Insert wire tool into locating sockets of grate frame

(See Fig. 14) lifting hand holding end upwards until

grate frame is free of its supports. Taking the weight

of the grate frame, gently lower front of grate

assembly until it rests on ashpit bottom plate.

3. Remove clinker from sloping bottom grate either by

raking poker or tongs.

4. Lift tool upwards and replace front of grate in reverse

manner described in 2 ensuring the grate frame is

securely supported and located.

5. Check that the reciprocating bars operate by

push/pulling the ridding lever with the tool.

6. Replace the ashpan and lock the ashpit door

securely.

WARNING: HOT SURFACES, use the tool supplied to

operate the appliance. It is recommended to use the

heatproof glove supplied when raising the dome lids to

use the hotplate. Replacement glove can be obtained

from the AGA Shop.

The firebox should be filled to the recommended level of

the bottom firebox door opening and the firebox door

closed.

NOTE: WHEN BURNING ALL MANUFACTURED

FUELS OTHER THAN SUNBRITE COKE, THE

SECONDARY ARE SLIDE SHOULD BE SET IN A

CLOSED POSITION. A DEEP BED OF NEWLY

CHARGED FUEL ON A LOW FIRE WILL TAKE TIME

BEFORE HEAT REACHES THE OVEN, HOTPLATE

AND BOILER.

When burning Coal, Phurnacite and Anthracite, allow

several minutes for the new charge to ignite before

changing the flue chamber setting.

ONCE REFUELLING HAS BEEN COMPLETED, CLOSE

THE FIREBOX DOOR IMMEDIATELY AND OPEN ONLY

FOR REFUELLING CHARGES.

When burning coke, anthracite and other smokeless fuels,

logs or peat, the flue should be cleaned once a month.

The use of coal may call for weekly cleaning. The

procedure is illustrated in Figs. 12, 13 and 14.

Allow the fire to burn out, or it may be done with a low fire.

Open the chimney damper to its maximum. Remove the

flue chamber cleaning door. Brush the soot from the flue

pipe, letting it fall on top of the oven. Remove the plug from

the hotplate, rake the deposits forward, and push into the

firebox (Fig. 13). Replace parts removed. Riddle the

bottomgrate thoroughly, clear the ashpit and relight the

fire.

NOTE: THE COOKER IS DESIGNED AND INTENDED

TO BE UNDER CONTINUOUS FIRING AND WHEN NOT

IN USE, ASHPIT AND FLUE CHAMBER DOORS

SHOULD BE LEFT OPEN TO ENSURE FREE

PASSAGE OF AIR THROUGH THE APPLIANCE AND

SO AVOIDING THE PROBLEMS ARISING FROM

CONDENSATION.

Following a prolonged shutdown of the appliance perhaps

after the summer break, ensure the flue way is free from

obstruction prior to re-lighting.

Chimney Sweeping

Sweep annually and inspect the soot box at 3 monthly

intervals, remove any deposits.

NOTE: SWEEPS BRUSHES MUST BE OF THE TYPE

WITH THE WIRE CENTRES AND GUIDE WHEELS.

In the unlikely event that the appliance is not operating in

freezing conditions, the water must be drained from the

boiler to prevent frost damage.

Failing to maintain your cooker properly can lead to a

chimney fire. Chimney fires occur when combustible

deposits on the inner walls of the chimney ignite. These

combustible deposits on the inner walls of the chimney

ignite. These combustible deposits, called “creosote”, are

a natural by-product of wood burning. A fire hazard exists

if 1/4” of creosote (or more) coats the inner walls of the

chimney.

REFUELLING

FLUE CLEANING

Fig. 12

Fig. 13

Fig. 14

CHIMNEYS

Prevention

Chimney fires do not occur in clean, intact, properly

installed chimneys. Have a professional chimney sweep

clean and inspect your appliance at least once a year.

More frequent cleanings may be required, based on the

type of fuel burned, the type of appliance, and the

frequency of use. In general, an older appliance or one

that is used frequently, will require more than one clean

per year.

Detection

The first indication of a chimney fire is usually the noise -

a roaring sound that grows louder as the fire’s intensity

increases. Clouds of black smoke and sparks will be seen

exiting the top of the chimney; in severe fires, flames can

several feet about the chimney.

Action

In case of a chimney fire follow these steps but do not put

yourself or others in peril.

1. Call the fire brigade immediately.

2. Get everyone out of the property.

3. Close down the air supply to the appliance i.e. the

primary air spinner and the flue damper. Limiting the

fire’s air supply will reduce its intensity. If there is a

damper in the chimney connector, plug or close the

opening.

4. If a fire extinguisher is available, open the appliance

door just enough to insert the nozzle of a 4 kg dry

chemical fire extinguisher rated for Class ABC fires.

Discharge the entire content of the extinguisher into

the appliance and shut the door.

5. If possible, wet down the roof and other outside

combustibles to prevent fires ignited by shooting

sparks and flames.

6. Closely monitor all combustible surfaces near the

chimney. During severe chimney fires, these surfaces

can become hot enough to ignite.

After a chimney fire, have the chimney inspected by a

professional sweep or cooker installer.

The cooker has been designed to provide a satisfactory

supply of domestic hot water with or without a limited

amount of heating with a normal day’s cooking providing

the cooker is kept alight overnight and the system

complete with lagged cylinder conforms to the installation

instructions.

In some circumstances it may be possible to overheat the

appliance and the water inside will boil. This will be evident

by the sound of a knocking noise coming from the

appliance and pipes around the house. If this occurs, close

off all air controls and manually start the central heating

pump if fitted. Opening the oven doors and hotplate covers

will help to release heat from the appliance. Be aware that

steam and boiling water will be expended from any open

vent from the heating system probably in the roof space at

the expansion tank.

Always use a qualified service/heating engineer when

servicing is required. Use only authorised replacement

parts. Do not make unauthorised modifications.

To Replace Grate Bars

1. Dump the grate assembly as described in 1, 2 and 3

under ‘To Dump the Grate - Clinker Removal’.

2. Lift up and draw forward the firebar in question and

replace new firebar in reverse manner.

To Replace Grate Bar Support Frame

1. Dump the grate assembly as described in 1, 2 and 3

under ‘TO DUMP THE GRATE - CLINKER

REMOVAL’.

2. Lift up and withdraw all the grate bars from the cooker.

3. Lift the support frame from its rear pivot support and

withdraw until clear of ashpit.

4. Insert new frame ensuring its pivot/supported at rear.

5. Replace firebars ensuring they are in correct order.

6. Lift grate assembly (as described in 4 and 5 under ‘TO

DUMP THE GRATE CLINKER’.

Properly installed and operated, this cooker will not emit

fumes.

Occasionally fumes from de-ashing and re-fuelling may

occur, but persistent fume emission must not be tolerated.

If fume emission does persist, then the following

immediate action should be taken:-

a) Open doors and windows to ventilate room.

b) Let the fire out or remove lit fuel from cooker.

c) Check for flue or chimney blockage and clean if

required.

d) Do not attempt to relight the fire until cause of fumes

has been been identified, and if necessary seek

professional advice.

Part Number Description No Req’d

RS4M 22093 Bottomgrate Bars Top 4

RS4M 22094 Bottomgrate Bars Bottom 3

RS4F3-13507 Oven Side Firebricks (Fixed) 2

RS4F4-13508 Firebox Side Top Firebrick 1

RS4F3-13509 Front Firebrick 1

RS4F3-13507 Boiler Side Firebricks 2

(Removeable)

RS1M91905 Ashpan 2

RSFM61 Operating Tool 1

Replacement parts if required are available from your

local stockist.

SERVICING

FUME EMISSION WARNING

SPARES LIST

HOT WATER SERVICE

REMEMBER: BE CAREFUL OF THE HOT APPLIANCE.

Immediately wipe off any fuel streaks between the firebox

and ashpit doors.

To keep the vitreous enamelled surfaces bright and clean,

wipe over daily with a soapy damp cloth, followed by a

clean dry duster. If milk, fruit juice or anything containing

acid is spilt on the top plate or down the cooker, be sure

to wipe it over immediately or the vitreous enamel may be

permanently discoloured. Keep a damp cloth handy, while

cooking to wipe up spills as they occur, so they do not

harden and become more difficult to remove later. If spills

do become baked on a cream cleanser can be used. For

stubborn deposits a soap impregnated pad can be

carefully used on the vitreous enamel.

In the main oven, spills and fat splashes are carbonised

at high temperature, occasionally brush off with a stiff

brush. The oven door can be removed for cleaning - do

not immerse in water, and shelves can be soaked and

cleaned with a cream cleanser.

Both insulating covers should be raised and allowed to

cool before cleaning with a soapy damp cloth. Use a wire

brush to keep the cast iron hotplate clean. General

cleaning is best carried out when the Rayburn is cool.

NOTE: SMOKE/SMELL EMITTED DURING INITIAL

USAGE.

Some parts of the cooker have been coated with a light

covering of protective oil. During initial operation of the

cooker this may cause smoke/smell to be emitted and is

normal and not a fault with the appliance, therefore it is

advisable to open doors and or windows to allow for

ventilation. Lift the lids to prevent staining the linings.

Important: AGA recommend Vitreous Enamel

Association approved cleaners for cleaning the vitreous

enamelled surfaces of this product.

But they are unsuitable for use on chrome and stainless

steel components, including the handrails and their

brackets.

The insulating covers should be cleaned regularly with a

NON-ABRASIVE mild detergent, applied with a soft

(coarse free) cloth and lightly polished up afterwards with

a soft (coarse free) duster or tissue, to bring it back to its

original lustre.

The oven is indirectly heated from outside by hot gases

from the heat source so no flames or elements within the

oven means full use can be made of the whole cooking

space. The main oven is slightly hotter towards the top

than the bottom. At a low idling heat from the main oven

can be used for long slow cooking such as casseroles,

stock, soup, curries, meringues, creme caramels, rice

pudding etc, all of which benefit from the gentle slow heat

and as the oven is vented into the flue, cooking smells

disappear to the outside. One of the many benefits of the

cast iron oven is that the floor of the oven is hotter than

that of a conventional cooker. No need to bake quiche

pastry cases “blind” just place the flan dish on the oven

floor for half the cooking time for “soggy-free” pastry.

When the oven is hot the floor of the oven can be used for

shallow frying (a cast iron dish is recommended) with the

added advantages that fat splashes are carbonised so

cleaning is minimized and the frying smells are taken

away through the flue. For perfect baking results turn food

during cooking. The top of a hot oven is where grilling

takes place, use the meat tray with a grill rack (optional

extra) so that fat can drip into the tray. The thermodial

temperature gauge, on the main oven door is a guide to

the internal oven temperature. Remember though on

open the door the temperature will appear to drop, do not

worry, close the door and after a few minutes the true

temperature can be read again. Heat is not lost as quickly

from a cast iron oven as a pressed metal box type so you

can peep at the cake to see how it is cooking without it

sinking. As you have probably realised, the meat tray

supplied with your Rayburn fits the oven size, hanging

directly from the runners, so leaving the grid shelves free

for other dishes. The oven grid shelves are designed to be

non-tilt and should be fitted with the upstand to the top

and at the back, so when pulled forward the shelf cannot

come right out. The solid plain shelf can be used as a

baking sheet or as a heat deflector. If the oven is too hot

or food already in the oven is beginning to overbrown

slide in the solid plain shelf above the food. To be effective

this shelf should be stored out of the oven, so it can be

used from cold.

DO NOT USE ABRASIVE PADS OR OVEN CLEANERS.

NOTE: IT IS NOT ADVISABLE TO PUT VERY WET

CLOTHES ON THE HANDRAIL, AS THIS MAY CRAZE

THE ENAMEL.

Fig. 15

CLEANING

COOKING HINTS

For further advice or information contact

your local distributor/stockist

With AGA Rangemaster’s policy of continuous

product improvement, the Company reserves the

right to change specifications and make

modifications to the appliance described at any

time.

Manufactured by

AGA Rangemaster

Station Road

Ketley Telford

Shropshire TF1 5AQ

England

www.rayburn-web.co.uk

www.agacookshop.co.uk

Rayburn Heatranger 216SFW User Instructions

Brand: Rayburn

Model: Heatranger 216SFW

Category: Power tools

Type: User Instructions

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Rayburn Heatranger 216SFW User Instructions

Rayburn Heatranger 216SFW User Instructions

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